(Part 2) Best bike tools & maintenence products according to redditors

Well, the PCS-9 is discontinued from Park, so I doubt that will be on sale. I am personally really not a fan of the PCS line of stands. They are overpriced and really don't work as easily as some others.

I would suggest taking a look at the Feedback Sports stand at the same price point. IMO it is much better constructed, feels more solid, and is easier to adjust tension.

I have 3 PRS 2.2-1 stands, so I'm not just taking a piss on Park. I have had 2-3 PCS stands and have given them away.

Bite my shiny metal ass.

Dont forget a lock. I use this one $80 this one is more affordable $35

drunkriding requires lighting. People seem to like cygolite.

[Nice singlespeed tool $20 ] (https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM)

That bike has rack mounts. Racks mean you can bring more than one case of beer home at a time.

I dont carry much else on the singlespeed. A small $2 patch kit, tire levers and an inflator.

Edit: The Modified Sheldon, credit: 802bikeguy

You'll need more torque than necessary to prevent slipping. Use a carbon paste instead.

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

Try this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM

Comes in silver, too.

Without a tool it is almost impossible, and the correct tool will cost significantly less than the damage you might cause attempting without it. Especially if you borrow the tool from (for example) a bike co-operative.

They can be very cheap too

Or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006UMFUES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HfqSBbP6WDM5H

This is cheap and works for me.

https://www.amazon.com/2-10NM-Bicycle-Basic-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00V4CQEGW/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1526053021&sr=1-2&keywords=venzo+torque

Looks like a bike chain tool

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Universal-Mountain-Bicycle-Splitter/dp/B0179JC31I

You want a wax based chain lube. Most others will attract playa dust, but this does a pretty good job (all things considered) at keeping the dust at bay.

Buy this grease:

White lightning grease

Buy this general lubricant:

Triflow

Buy this multi-tool:

Alien II It includes all common allen and wrench sizes, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.

Buy this socket set:

Ice tools 8 x 9 x 10

Get this adjustable wrench:

Wrench

Buy these tire levers:

Park tool levers

With all of that you should have more than enough to do basic maintenance with under $80 worth of tools.

As you get more skilled, you'll need some specialized tools for the bottom brackets, headsets, and cones on your wheels but those will vary by type/bike, and in time you will own multiple bikes so buy the tools when you when you need them.

I use White lightening wax based lube. Self cleaning for easy use and it sets in around a few hours.

http://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Original-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B0016ZXE06/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1377623670&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+lube+bike

• Yes
  
• Can you even replace just the middle ring? If you have to replace all 3 then it might be cheaper to just get a whole new crankset.
  
• No idea
  
• No idea
  
• I would guess bottom bracket, check out these two guides on how to figure out where sounds are coming from: http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html & http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
  
• That one will work for you, getting the one without the handle like: http://www.amazon.ca/Park-Tool-Compact-Crank-Puller/dp/B0028YUZSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396388359 is actually cheaper and easier to use since you can move the wrench to get better mechanical advantage
  
• If it's a Shimano cartridge bottom bracket then that will work. Count the number of notches to be sure it fits.
  
• No idea
  
• Probably not.
  
• Metric wrenches in at least these sizes: 8, 9, 10, 15 and 17. Then whatever additional sizes you need to work on your bike.

You'll probably want a park tools repair stand (i have that one, it's cheap and it gets the job done), and the big blue book.

You'll also probably need a bottom bracket tool depends on your type of bottom bracket though. You might want to get a breaker bar as well (leverage is very important when removing these bottom brackets).

You'll need a chain whip and lockring spanner.

If you are going threaded fork, you'll need the relevant spanner wrenches.

Make sure you have a good multi-tool/allen wrench set. A nice tube of waterproof grease, and some triflow or other chain lube, and a degreaser. Also a good pedal wrench is good to have.

A 4th hand tool is really good to have if you are running your own brakes, plus you'll need a good housing/cable cutter.

If i can think of anything else, i'll get back to you, but that should pretty much cover it.

Also you can get a "fibre grip" paste to help stop carbon parts slipping. I use it for my lockon grips on my carbon bars.

The rust is functionally irrelevant. The threads are for a crank removal tool that threads into it.

What's your budget? There's a ton of options all across the price range. The Park Tool stands are nice, but expensive. I've made a few DIY stands with varying results for a few dollars at the local home improvement store as well. This one on Amazon is $100 and gets good reviews, though I don't have any personal experience with it.

Remove the 8mm bolt on each side, then use an ISIS/Octalink-style crank arm puller (or get one that does both ISIS/Octalink and square taper) to remove the arms. Use a Shimano Hollowtech style BB tool (i.e. Park BBT-9) to remove the BB cups. Replacement BB is a Truvativ Howitzer. You'll need to check the chain line number - it should be printed somewhere on the old BB, or you can measure it yourself. It's the distance between the center of the seat tube and the center of the chainring - should be either 51mm or 56mm.

Looks like you already got one, but there's also this review and recommendation from Sweethome. http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-repair-stand/

They recommend the Feedback Sports Sport Mechanic.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F2S824/

> triflow

Just found out about it thanks to this thread, I will give it a try. I see they have many different types, is this the one you guys are using? Has anyone tried their grease for bike ball bearings?

This whole summer has been plagued with road construction near me so I have been riding through patches of 'gravel dust.'

So I have been doing roughly weekly chain maintenance to not let that build up.

I use the grunge brush! to clean my chain and highly recommend it.

You can use any generic citrus de-greaser to clean your chain/cassette. They are all very similar and all work really well. I bought a 2 liter bottle at a hardware store for like 10$ and it works great.

Use a real chain lube. Finish Line Wet, Finish Line Dry and Boeshield T-9 are the products I have in my garage and each can serve a different purpose depending on your ride and riding conditions.

Do not use WD-40 if you plan on using a chain for years. I know this sounds weird because it seems like it is working and in a way it is but unfortunately wd40 is not just a lubricant/water repeller it also has some solvent properties which allow it to disolve things and then let those things penetrate the links of your chain and get deposited there.

tools and products:

• degreaser (off the shelf engine degreaser at supermarket)
  
• old toothbrush (better alternative is a grunge brush)
  
• paper towel
  
  how to:
  
  
• put bike on rear wheel stand.
  
• spray degreaser on chain, with one hand manually rotating the wheel. DO NOT start the bike and put the bike in 1st gear to have the rear wheel moving. too many horror stories of people losing fingers because of that.
  
• leave degreaser on for about 10 minutes.
  
• start scrubbing the chain with toothbrush or grunge brush.
  
• wipe clean with cloth.
  
  done with cleaning. after that, be sure to lube the chain with proper chain lube.

The tool sets are appealing because it looks like a one time purchase, but I suggest buying quality tools as needed. For instance, I only need a T25 torx, so buying a set doesn't make sense. I would recommend buying a high quality metric allen wrench set (these are what you'll use the most).

Also, borrow tools from friends. I'm changing my whole drive train this week. I have most of what I need already, but I don't have a chain whip. Asked around my riding friends and one is letting me borrow his. Sure I could buy one for $20, but how often am I going to use it?

Someone else mentioned it, but cable cutters are a fantastic tool if you plan on running/replacing your own cables. I nearly bruised my hand using sidecutters until I went to the LBS and bought Park's cable cutter for $25 or so. Night and day difference.

Also, a bike repair stand is great. If you don't want to shell out a ton of money, I bought this one and so far it has worked really well. Eventually, flipping your bike upside down or trying to wrench on it while it's leaning against something becomes a true pain.

Would advise against that pump and tool kit.

Here's the tools you should get:

https://www.amazon.com/Pedro-Tire-Lever-Yellow-Pair/dp/B008FOMD6M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755226&sr=1-2&keywords=pedros+tire+lever

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755245&sr=1-7&keywords=lockring+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Continental-Presta-Valve-Black-20-25cc/dp/B0068FAXTY/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755280&sr=1-5&keywords=bicycle%2Btube&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755338&sr=1-1&keywords=topeak+hand+pump

which puts you at $52 for tools.

For a helmet I'd look at a Giro Foray or a Specialized Echelon

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

Your weight isn't the problem, a poorly installed pedal can easily work itself loose, damaging both itself and the crank, for riders of any size.

The threads on the pedal and crankset are damaged and will need replacing. These aren't difficult jobs but removing the crank (assuming you have a 3 piece set this link should help you find out) will need a special tool you are unlikely to have. Pedals you can do with a regular spanner though you need to remember that the left hand pedal has a left hand thread, this guide explains what to do.

From watching the Andytube channel on youtube where he disassembles and cleans a couple of slant-shank machines, I've started using the Triflow oil he recommends on my 500 and 404, and both run super smoothly now.

So you need an Allen key/Hex wrench (regionalism) to remove the crank arm retention bolts.

You need a $14 or less crank puller.

You need a $6 (The park tool one is no better and $14) 22-spline driver for Shimano 22-spline BBs (COUNT YOUR SPLINES FIRST).

And a 3/8" socket wrench to drive the tool or an appropriately sized box wrench (can be driven from the inside square or the outside faces).

Make sure the assembly that holds the hex head screw is pushed all the way down. It can move with the seat post as you are adjusting but it should be all the way down inside the housing behind the top of the seat tube before tightening.

Also, get a torque wrench. I have this one which is relatively inexpensive and great for low-torque adjustments.

http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Cycle-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair/dp/B005KOKFR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373769124&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+stand

I've had this for at least 6mos, works great. It can hold a bike at any angle and I've used it for many bikes. Cheap and reliable.

Chain maintenance:

• a chain brush
  
• Chain cleaner (o-rings safe): kerosine is a good option
  
• Chain lube
  
  Oil changing:
  
  
• Oil (doh), check your bike's manual for the type of oil
  
• Oil filter
  
• Oil drain pan (something to catch old oil)
  
• Oil funnel
  
  Those are the basics, google for best prices. Best thing you can do is download your Gladius user manual (from suzuki or haynes), and it will explain what you need to do, when you need to do it.
  

Maxima Chain Cleaner and Maxima Chain Wax. The chain wax dries quickly and doesn't attract dirt like most spray lubes. I also love my grunge brush! You can pick them up from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Grunge-Brush-Chain/dp/B000BS02LS/

I bought this one. I love Park Tool brand and that's what I own for tools to work on the bike, but a stand is a stand. IMO you're only paying more for the name.

If you use a chain cleaning tool like this or this it cleans your chain pretty well without needing to take it off the bike. Then I usually use an old toothbrush to get the gunk off the gears.

No special tools to remove the derailleur.

You'll have to "break" the chain. If it doesn't have a master link (sometimes called a quick link), you'll need a chain splitter tool. However, once you split the chain, don't try to re-press in the rivet. You'll need to get a quick link to re-join the chain.

Order the parts and bring them in to install.

cassette $25

chainring $9

chain $21

koolstop pads pair $8

EDIT: Or do it yourself...

BB tool

cassette lockring tool

chain tool

allen wrenches

you need something like this http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Bicycle-Cycle-Crank-Puller/dp/B006UMFUES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411831580&sr=8-3&keywords=crank+tool which is a combination of a socket/wrench (one end) that removes the screw and a puller (the other end) that removes the crank.

here's a video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQoGS3YjBXk (doesn't matter whether it's a mountain bike or not - i am pretty sure what you have is a square taper crank).

it's more expensive than an old shoelace, but a chain cleaning tool is also pretty OK at getting stuff out from between the links.

RAD Cycle workstand, $50 on Amazon, would not recommend. Broke a clamp and now height can't be adjusted. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065PHDZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M1cKBbF9YRTC2
No carbon, so no torque wrench use on the bikes. Haven't really had a problem with bolt torques yet knocks on wood

My stand: Feedback Sports Sport Stand I love it. Feels really well built and is very easy to collapse and set up.

Tekton are the cheapest I'd go for click torque wrenches. They're a great brand at a very competitive price point. Beam-style torque wrenches can be had for cheaper if you're into that. They're great as well. Reliable, simple, and don't require recalibration. I just prefer the usability of click personally.

Or Amazon UK.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

looks to be a mid-70s Frenchie, so 2x5 friction gears, probably a Sachs-Huret rear derailleur and (this is the bad bit) weird french dimensions and threading on the BB. That's not necessarily a deal breaker if everything is in place, it just means replacing bits can be a little bit difficult.

It probably is worth a $100 or so if everything works and there's minimal rust, but if you do buy this, you'll need a 4th hand tool to set the brakes up properly, and I would also suggest some modern brake pads.

Not as long as the Pedro's Trixie is $23.50.

Get this multitool, it has pretty much everything you'll need on it including a spoke wrench and chain tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Multi-Bicycle-19-Function/dp/B002VYB4QC/

Also take the bike back to the shop after you've put in some time on it and see if they'll give a once over for free. Brake and shifter cables stretch from when they're new so they can readjust those and most bikes are mostly pre-assembled in China and have the final assembly done at the shop and things aren't always properly tightened but may seem fine when they take them out of the box initially.

I have this exact one. It is great. Small enough to fit in your pack, in an under saddle bag, or even in a pocket. It will work on most of the screws on your bike.

1/4" 2-10NM Bike Bicycle Basic Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4CQEGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NbVMzbJYWC1YW

3rd/4th hand tool


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IZGF6A/

I got this one from amazon for $100 shipped (it's 90 now) and i'm pretty happy with it. it did have an issue with holding it's rotational position, but i just wrapped a bungee around the handle, and it not only fixed it, but now it's self-closing.

I've got one of these
https://www.amazon.com/2-10NM-Bicycle-Basic-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00V4CQEGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484319140&sr=8-2&keywords=bicycle+torque+wrench

It is adorably small, cheap and fits in pretty much any tool kit. I really only worry a lot about cockpit and carbon for precision torques, so I just have a low range torque wrench.

Larger torques I am comfortable with going by feel.

Maxima Clean Up Chain Cleaner on the chain, Grunge brush if necessary, then get the bike wet, spray it liberally with S100 and let it soak in for about 5 minutes, hose it off, and wipe down select bits with a towel.
Afterwards I'll put a little WD40 on the chain, then properly lube it when dry.

It's a chore but relatively easy and I'm always happy with the results.

OK, here's what you need:

• MTB levers: https://www.amazon.com/Avid-Speed-Bicycle-Brake-Graphite/dp/B000YBEJKW
  
  
• Bars: https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Ride-Flat-710mm-Black/dp/B005Z27VT6
  
  
• Grips: https://www.amazon.com/Gobike-Silicone-Cycling-Mountain-Handlebar/dp/B01J3FPITU
  
  
• Cable cutter: https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-131839-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S
  
  As for the shifters, it's not totally clear. You should first try removing the MicroShift bar-end shifters and see if you can disassemble the bar-end mounting piece from the shifter lever. Ultimately you need shifters that look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Dura-Ace-SL-7900-10-Speed-Shifters/dp/B001LPK8JG (or you can just buy those). Or, you might decide you want the shifters on your bars instead, in which case: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SLX-RapidFire-Mountain-Bicycle/dp/B007Q4M8RQ - if you go this way you may also need a new front derailleur (a Shimano mountain one, instead of the Tiagra road one you have).
  
  You may also need new cables but probably you can cut the existing ones down (either way you need the cutters above).

http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Repair-Adjustable-Height-Bicycle/dp/B0085ADXP6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1407703874&sr=8-13&keywords=bike+stand

Have you thought about Carbon Assembly Paste? it's pretty much grease with a fine grit that aids in creating more friction/grip when you clamp things.

http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Assembly-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0012RIEM6

white lightning, its the best
http://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Original-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B0016ZXE06

Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1

This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.

This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.




Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1

Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.

As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9

Put the front brake back on. Then start saving for a great saddle. I'd go Brooks with the matching real leather bar tape. Don't put Thickslicks on this bike. They aren't bad tires, but those huge white logos won't do anything to make the bike look better. Add a chain tensioner and get a lockring tool. I like the Trixie from Pedro's.

http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM

Tried one of these Park Chain Cleaner tools? Haven't yet myself, but will likely invest soon (reviews there seem favorable). (not yet needed on new bike, previously rode a belt driven bike)

• A bike toolkit - I have a Nashbar one But I think Bikehand one's is better. The chaintool in Nashbar one was a garbage. Bikehand's chaintool is outstanding. Cone wrenches, etc. in the Nashbar's has no handle coating, etc. I also have a couple of ther Bikehand tools and all are pretty good.
  
• Repair stand - Feedback sports
  
• T-handle hex wrenches, Metric - Allen
  
• Combination wrenches, Metric - Husky from Home Depot.
  
• Adjustable wrench, 10" - Stanley - very convenient
  
• Ratchet wrenches, Metric - Harbor Freight, eBay
  
• Torque wrench - Nashbar.com
  
• Table top vice.
  
• Grease - progold
  
  EDIT: About the stand - There are many cheaper options but go with Feedback sports. The clamp by screw is far better than quick-release. Also cheap stands are really cheap while Feedback Sport's stand is all metal and very solid. Don't skimp on the stand.
  
  

http://www.cheapbikeparts360.com/products/truvativ-isoflow-3.0-crankset/

plus

https://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-Bicycle-Cycle-Crank-Puller/dp/B006UMFUES

plus

Allens and spanner wrenches. 15mm + crescent wrench will do it.

Don't fuck it up and strip the threads or something dumb. You could probably do this cheaper but since you seem unsure about it, this is probably the most foolproof and cheap way to go about it. Also the quickest way for me to give you an answer and move on.

Just need one of these in addition to the crank puller. A nice big 1/2" torque wrench from HF will make removing it and torquing it up correctly a breeze.

This Crank Brothers Multi tool is an awesome pickup for $25:

Crank Brothers Multi Bicycle Tool (19-Function, Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VYB4QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mlTZAbEAK0N37

The creaking can come from a lot of things. If the chainring has a spider, it might be that the bolts need some tightening. It can also be the pedals needing some grease, which was the case for my bike creaking.

To take out your bottom bracket, you need a square taper crank puller and a bottom bracket remover. You can also use Park Tools CCP-22 if you are only going to use square tapered cranks btw. After you get those two tools, make sure you know how to use them by reading Park Tools website or youtubing a 'how-to' video on taking out bottom bracket and crank. I say this because the threadings are reversed on the non-drive side and if you don't know that, you might strip your tool and bike.

If you have those two tools and some bike grease, just reapply grease and re-install them. If I made any mistake, please feel free to correct me. Taking out your cranks and bottom is a dirty job, but a simple one nonetheless.

In my camelbak while riding: Crankbrothers multi tool, c02 inflator with 2 cartridges, extra tube, 3 tire levers, an extra master link and a folding knife.

As far as at home, I think the first thing should be a repair stand, it makes maintenance so much easier and really is a must have IMO if you plan on maintaining your own bike. Some good specialty tools are a chain whip and cassette tool, bottom bracket tool and a quality pair of wire cutters for replacing cables and housing.

I'd second this. I bought a bike specific tool kit and its nice but not 100% necessary. A regular ole toolkit + bike specific pieces like the BB/Chain/Lockring tools will work fine. The Pedro Trixie tool is pretty sweet as a tool for the riding or home as well. That said, this Bikehand Toolkit had everything I needed to build a bike up beside headset stuff.

I'd have suggested the 19 tool version if he wasn't looking in the $15 range. I'd pay the $4 extra dollars.

Pedros is all you need.

I have two questions:

1. Are there any good open-faced (no plastic screen covering) top tube phone mounts for plus-sized phones (Nexus 6)? I'm not crazy about stem cap/handlebar mounts. The handlebar mounts don't seem to fit top tubes, and the one top tube mount I can find is a) covered by a plastic screen which I don't like and b) not suitable for large phones. I feel I may be out of luck on this one.
   
   
2. I'm buying some supplies for bike cleaning and maintenance. Is there anything on the list that I'm missing, or is overrated/not worth getting?
   
   

• Chain wear measuring tool
  
• Chain breaking tool (plier-style or punch-style, can't remember how my chain is put together at the moment)
  
• Chain cleaner tool
  
• Degreaser (is this bike specific/not?)
  
• Chain lube (is this bike specific/not?)
  
• Brush set (any ones in particular? I know I need the sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing, a bottle brush and something finer)
  
• Dummy hub
  
• Bike stand
  
  The bike stand is a tricky one. I know there's a cheap one at some US retailer everyone loves in this sub... but being in Canada the cheapest one I can find that isn't trash is $110. That price point is making me cringe a little - are there any suitable DIY options or cheaper alternatives out there?
  
  Past that, as far as tools go, I checked out the Park Tools YT video series on bike cleaning and these were what came up.
  
  

A bike stand is an excellent gift for someone who does their own repairs! However, I have one which is quite similar to the one you linked to and I'm not a big fan of it. In my case it doesn't work well with bikes which have bottle cages that are mounted lower on the down tube, and doesn't work well for my mountain bike because it has a bottle cage mounted on the bottom side of the down tube so it will not set on the stand correctly unless I remove the bottle cage, which is kind of annoying.

My next repair stand will definitely be something like this Feedback Sports stand.

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

Rust? unless you have a cheap bike, like really cheap I would not worry about rust. A good quality bike is nearly all aluminum or some alloy.

Bike storage I kept my bikes inside my dorm room but when I was there you could rent bike lockers.

Cover your seat with a plastic bag that would not hurt.

Your chain, just keep it clean if you must buy this for lube use this.

If you are proactive with maintainence I would not worry about it.

My old Transition Bottlerocket was a small frame, so I crossed my fingers and went with a small. It's spot on. I'm 5'5" with more torso than inseam.
That medium frame will work like magic.

So I'm still tuning the fork & shock, so they're not as plush as my old ride yet. The extra rotational torsion from the larger wheels makes it feel heavier in the air, but that's a feel and tuning thing, so I'm getting used to it.

I really can't say enough good things about the bike, the Level Link is Santa Cruz's VPP, so its totally loose in the corners, no brake jacking. Huge value for the $$$.

Does REI sell DB (in the USA)? You could try that if it's too risky, but check out their return policy and give DB a call with your concerns.

Also, it comes with a cute torque wrench that's accurate enough. I like this one better, it has less wiggle.

I prefer this one because I can use a socket wrench with it and it takes up less space in the bike tool box.

You are correct -- the only difference between the 11 speed KICKR and the 10 speed KICKR is the cassette. They even share the same freehub, which is the thing the cassette sits on.

You'll need to replace the 11 speed cassette with a 10 speed one. You will need some special tools to do this, though. Are you having your KICKR delivered to your LBS? If so, I'd have them do the swap. If not, you'll need this (or it's cheaper alternative here), one of [these] these, and a large adjustable wrench.

After you collect those things, here's a nice video showing you how to do the swap. Instructions are the same even for your KICKR.

If you haven't already purchased a new cassette, get the cheapest one. Weight is of no concern for indoor training -- no need to be a "weight weenie." If there's any guidance to be had with choosing a cassette for a KICKR, I'd stick with the same gearing (i.e., if your rear wheel is a 11-25, get an 11-25 for the KICKR. That way there won't be any adjustment issues between the KICKR and your rear wheel.

You linked to a freewheel remover. What you actually need is a cassette lockring tool.

It is the "Portable Home Bike Repair Stand Adjustable Height Bicycle Stand" made by Conquer. I had personally never heard of it. The stand had great reviews on amazon and was only 44.95 + $12.67 shipping. I've cleaned/tuned-up both of my bikes with it and don't have any complaints yet. I have no idea why I waited so long to get one.

Link:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085ADXP6?psc=1

If you have an Aldi near you take a look there. I got one for a little over $30 there and it's great for the money.

Edit: this actually looks like the same stand as mine, but in blue. A bit more than I payed, but it might be good to consider. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065PHDZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dunGzbT3FAMH4

All of that will likely make it more slippery. Just use friction paste!

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Assembly-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0012RIEM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502601421&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+fiber+grip

I use this on all compression joint faces: seat tube, saddle rails, stem/steerer/bars, and not just on carbon.

i liked this one

https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Multi-Bicycle-19-Function/dp/B002VYB4QC/ref=sr_1_21?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1503404211&sr=1-21&keywords=multitool

when i used a friend's on the trail

but then when i went to buy my own i got the chinese copy of it since it was a lot cheaper

You will need to not only buy a new chain but you will need to shorten it in order to fit on your bike. This requires a specialized tool. Something like this Park Tool one or a cheap equivelent

THIS! Don't overtighten it. Get some of this gel/paste stuff before you crack your seatpost (like I did). https://smile.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Assembly-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0012RIEM6/

If you're talking about the frame, just wash the bike every so often.

If you're talking about your drivetrain, that kinda depends on the conditions you ride in.

I live in SoCal, and it's really dry here so I don't have to worry about using a really heavy lube on my drivetrain.

Whenever I get a new chain or drivetrain part the first thing I do is let it sit in a jar of carb cleaner for a while to completely degrease it. Once it's shiny and sparkling I put it on the bike, and use White Lightning lube on it. It's a wax-based lubricant that sheds off the drivetrain as it picks up dust and dirt. Cleaning the drivetrain when you use this stuff exclusively is as simple as wiping it off and reapplying.

The only disadvantage to this lube is that it doesn't last as long as a wet lube, and doesn't hold up as well in wet or muddy conditions. However, since it's almost always dry where I live it's not an issue for me and I don't mind reapplying it every so often. The upside of having a drivetrain clean enough to eat off of is worth it.

Ho questo

I got this [Feedback Sports Sport Mechanic Bicycle Repair Stand] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2S824/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on Amazon. It is really nice and stable and I will probably never have to replace it. I had the Tacklife Bicycle Repair Stand but it was really unstable and my bike kept falling over so I returned it.

You could spend more but I've been extremely happy with this one from amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KOKFR4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398049027&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40). Even with a 50# bike it feels solid.

Sorry to hear about you getting hurt.

I'm not familiar with the assembly paste Shimano ships with their carbon fiber parts, but here's what I use: Finish Line Fiber Grip

With barely any torque it locks my bars in place better than full torque spec did without it, and it gets a lot better with additional torque. I also carry this tiny torque wrench on longer rides so I have no excuse for my bars coming loose.

Thank you. Does this tool work for either of them?

Thank you!

Do I have to buy the Parktool BBT-9? I have this one, does it not work?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00811WQJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KOKFR4

I have one, btw, and am pleased with it :) solid stand for the price

I totally agree, I would strip the bike down and replace the headset and bottom bracket bearings and repack them with grease, then replace the brake pads and put new cables on.

Then if that goes smooth I would retension the wheels just to know that you can true your wheel in the middle of no where. After that is done maybe service the hubs they are probably cup/cone so not too hard.

After that you get into more expensive consumables of Freewheel/Cassette, chain, chain rings, jockey wheels. But then your bike is basically rebuilt.

I think the only two special tools for all of that are
Crank Puller
and Spanner Wrench And those are the cheapest I have found and are probably junk but should work once or twice at least.




I think some time and inexpensive consumables are worth it, you get to know your bike and how to fix it.

It should be easy to find what brakes will give you enough reach to run a set of 700c wheels which would expand your tire selection.

I lube my locks with bike chain lube. It's what I have around and works well.

You want a high quality dry lube, not the standard oil/wet stuff at a big box store. Swing by a local bike shop and ask for a dry lube. They should have it in stock.

I personally use: https://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Clean-Ride-Squeeze/dp/B0016ZXE06?th=1

Ahhh... Facepalm. Thanks for the note, post is fixed.

Good suggestion as well! There's apparently an aluminum version which is $10 more.

So if I get this tool, I'll also need something like this chain whip and this cassette remover?

Thanks for the info!

I have a Lezyn quick release saddle bag.

Inside is a Crankbros multi tool which is very heavy duty, I like it a lot.

Next I have a couple tire levers and a patch kit.

Then I have a Portland design works Co2 inflator, its so small and does the trick nicely. And two cartridges.

I have room for my wallet and keys after that.

Oh and my PinLocks key. Both skewers, headset, and seatpost are locked.

To answer your question, the crankbros tools are great. And heavy duty.

https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Multi-Bicycle-19-Function/dp/B002VYB4QC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465855912&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=crankbros+multi+tool

Seriously, get one of those Grime Ministers (Cycle Gear) or Grunge Brushes, it saves a shitload of time and effort. Spray chain down with chain cleaner, let sit 5 minutes, scrub with the brush, rinse with a hose, let dry, lube. Easy peasy, also made a million times easier with either a center stand or a swingarm stand.

Chain lube:
https://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Clean-Ride-Squeeze/dp/B0016ZXE06

It's wax powder suspended in alcohol. It doesn't attract dirt like oil does so if you get against the chain you not nearly as dirty.

Not totally clear on what you mean when you say "wheels are scratched and slashed", I'm guessing you mean the tires are damaged?

The front tire is probably the most important thing for safety if it's damaged, with the brake cables close behind.

So my budget for fixing all that would be (assuming it's the tires and not the wheels that's damaged):

New:

• Chain: $9
  
• Tires: $30
  
• Bar tape: $8
  
• Saddle: $23 - or get any old saddle from a flea market/off a junk bike to save a few bucks.
  
• The cables you would need to take your old cables into the bike shop to buy new ones and have them cut to the same length, would probably cost about $20-30.
  
  Total cost: $90-100. Only special tool you'd need is a chain tool ($9) to adjust the length of the chain.
  
  

That tool kit is great, I use it for all of my repairs, along with this repair stand. They're both cheap options and aren't of the highest possible quality, but they work great. The wrenches in the Nashbar set are kind of soft, but if you maintain your bike, you shouldn't be bending them up trying to loosen seized parts. It's just missing a good pair of cutters and some picks.

As far as your other questions, I use Simple Green for my degreasing when I clean my bike. I just use regular dish soap to wash the frame. I use Phil Wood waterproof grease for all of my threads and bearings, and right now I'm using a Finish Line dry lube for my chain, but I'm not too fond of it.

The picture showed the two attached. I didn't have a magwell block in either. And I was using a bike stand and my vice. I'm just glad TN Arms has a top notch replacement policy.

The biggest difference between cranksets is roundness, a more expensive crank is going to be rounder which means there's a smaller difference in chain tension which means it "absorbs" less energy is more silent. Expensive cranksets are also stiffer, but unless you're putting out 3000 watt that isn't really an issue.

That conversion kit looks like a bad idea, it's a bunch of the cheapest components being marketed as "hip".

They're called riser bars, as long as you find a bar with same diameter (probably 25.4 or 26 mm on older road bikes) you can keep the stem and headset.

Park makes super nice tools, and that stand is a great choice. But I'd really consider buying tools along the ride, instead of shelling out big time for this huge set. Since you are a tool guy you probably already have a good part of those wrenches and keys, so it'd be better to move a bit of that budget towards your bike.

For this conversion you'll need these tools:

• Chain whip
  
  
• Pedal wrench
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Tire levers
  
  
• Crank puller
  
  
• Chain cleaner
  
  
• Bottom bracket tool
  
  This totals about half of what you'd pay for the complete set, so I'd go for the complete set if you need all the wrenches, but otherwise you can put an extra $100 into your conversion.

Here's the lube (wax based instead of oil based, better for all the dust). https://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Clean-Ride-Squeeze/dp/B0016ZXE06/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=white+lightning&qid=1566270921&s=gateway&sr=8-10

So this one then?

For your chain I use and recommend one of these guys:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Chain-Cleaning-System/dp/B007Q4NCZI/ref=pd_lpo_468_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=HF8S7NP2M3GDWCHKCRX7

For the rear disc mech. brake...I dont know what to tell you. Perhaps you are putting on too much chain lube and its getting all over your other parts, thus atracting dirt and grime? Maybe you deal with stuff like Adobe mud/clay in your area which can be sandy and stiicky as well? I would ask a local shop about that one to see if anyone else has this issue as well and how they deal with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Mini-Chain-Brute/dp/B00781WVE2

This has been my go-to chain tool for over a decade (the same one). The shop I worked at also used this model as it's everyday chain tool.

Cutter, I use the Park one. If I were to buy again and on a budget, I wouldn't hesitate on the Pedros one here:

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-131839-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S/ref=sr_1_13?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1466189527&sr=1-13&keywords=wire+cutters#Ask

Definitely a good decision by attempting to do the repair yourself instead of taking it to the LBS, you'll be saving a lot of money.

You can get the tools and parts for cheap on Amazon. you'll be paying triple+ if you buy them from the LBS, though the trade off is you won't be helping support "the little guys".

i'd hold off on replacing the front chaining since they wear at a verrrry slow rate compared to rear cogs, and only do so if you have similar problems after riding on a new cassette & chain.

You'll need a chain breaker tool to get the old chain off, this is one I purchased about 2 years ago, used it on 6 or 7 chains and it's still is going strong, under $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179JC31I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a new chain- https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B074YZGKKQ

also when was the last time you had your rear hub repacked? i'm not sure if just slapping a new cassette on that wheel given its state is a good idea, you might want to consider repacking with new grease and bearings and lubricating the free-hub first, which is more involved.

personally i'd say either get a new rear wheel, chain & cassette, then tinker around with the old wheel on the side, experiment with it, and ultimately keep it as a back up, or take the wheel to the LBS and let them overhaul the hub / lubricate the freehub before putting a new cassette on yourself, unless you want to spend the time learning how to do all that yourself, on-top of having to buy additional tools, bearings, grease, etc.

Matte white is definitely hard to clean. The hardest place of all is behind the chainrings, I don't think I'll ever be able to clean that right without removing the chainrings and cranks and I'm too lazy for that.

Here's my full cleaning routine:

1. Spray all over with diluted Simple Green
   
2. Clean chain using Park Tools chain cleaner tool, three sets of 30 revolutions, two with Simple Green and one with water to rinse out
   
3. Remove wheels, clean cassette with Park Tools brush that came with the chain cleaner and soapy water
   
4. Clean wheels, frame, fork, saddle, bars, and under fenders with hot soapy water using sponge, brushes, rags, etc
   
5. Put wheels back on, rinse with hose
   
6. Let dry, then lube
   
   I definitely recommend fenders, especially if you ride on wet roads. Sometimes I do hear rocks getting in but there's enough clearance that they don't get stuck.

which is better the 2 leg or 4 leg version of the conquer?

bike work stands are pretty cheap. I got this one and it works perfectly for maybe about $10 more then building something like op is using.

http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Repair-Adjustable-Height-Bicycle/dp/B0085ADXP6/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1415728615&sr=8-16&keywords=bike+stand

Thanks very much!!

Is it bad to just use wet lube, even if it's dry weather conditions?

Also, when it comes to chain cleaning. Reckon it's worth getting one of these, or will this and a rag do the trick?

try a tool like this. costs nothing
https://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-Bicycle-Cycle-Crank-Puller/dp/B006UMFUES

The whole premise of the video is that the tools are expensive. They cost only $10-$15 though! https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Universal-Mountain-Bicycle-Splitter/dp/B0179JC31I/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T6E2334BYPSVJQS43KMK

Look into the Crank Brothers Multi Tool. It's durable and compact.

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

Oh crap. I meant to share this brush from finish line.

You should lube the cables. Ask a local bike shop what they recommend. I used "Tri-Flow" which you can pick up at a bicycle shop. They don't advertise it for motorcycles but it does a great job.
http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF21010-Superior-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B0002ITTK2

Also check the path of the clutch cable, make sure that it has a smooth path without any kinks.

I use degreaser and something like this to wipe down the chain, chainring, and cog. Chain cleaners like this are really convenient, but hard to use on fixed gears since there's less slack than a bike with a derailleur. After it's nice and shiny, I tension it, and put a drop of all weather lube in every link like this.

For cleaning a chain, Park CM-5.2 Cyclone Chain Scrubber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_b6fVub13D0MPR - For cleaning cassettes, use an old shop rag and "floss" between the cogs. For the chainrings, hold a rag against the inside of the chainrings and give the cranks a couple good spins. Every other week is a great regime, so I'm unsure how the cassette turned out like that. You can usually get about 4000 on a cassette (sometimes more), and about 2000-2500 on a chain. This is all very broad estimates, but the cassette shouldn't be in that condition. Do you know what brand the cassette is? I've used SRAM and Shimano cassettes and haven't seen that issue, though I live in a dry climate.


It sounds like you're doing everything right, I'm curious why the cassette was in that condition. The chain could have needed replacing early if the cassette delaminated like that and accelerated chain wear.

That video was super helpful, thanks! I was worried about reverse threading like the pedals have, but the dust caps were just really stuck from age. I was able to remove them and uncover what looks like a square bottom bracket. So I'm gonna grab this tool from amazon to get them off. Does that look right to you?

WD-40 is a little bit of lubricant in a lot of solvent. It's primarily solvent.

As others said, it's fine for metal-on metal contact for pieces that move relatively infrequently, but for something like a bike chain where all of the parts are in constant motion you need a thicker lube.

That being said, bike lubes are not any more expensive than WD-40 unless you get into some really esoteric stuff. Tri-flow isn't my favorite lube, but it works just fine and doesn't exactly cost a lot. Spending $6 on something that's going to last you a couple of years is no financial burden for anyone.

Well if you're gonna link to something why not link it to the item. Linking to an image for some bike related stuff can be kind of specific and not available everywhere.

The link to the item can help people learn more about the product and give them ideas for more terms to use google to find the item with.

and it is pedro's tools http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-6451250-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S

and for future reference - http://tinyurl.com/632hcv

For anyone interested, reviews of that stand are mixed (as I imagine the reviews of the DIY model are as well). http://www.amazon.com/RAD-Cycle-Products-Bicycle-Adjustable/dp/B0065PHDZE

You'll need a lockring tool and a chain whip. (You need the whip to hold the cassette in place and the lockring tool to take off the cassette itself. Park Tools is the brand I have, and probably the most reputable. (I'd link it, but apparently Amazon doesn't want to cooperate...)

I presoak gently with a water hose (basically sprinkle and get all the loose dirt off). I then spray diluted simple green on the chain and cassette. I let that sit while I whip up a bucket of simple green with my bike brushes ( http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Pro-Brush-Kit/dp/B002PPMR54 ).

I then rinse the drive train off and use the cassette tool to scrub the chain and cassette. I scrub the chain while it’s on the chain ring to help keep it in one place and get 3 sides of it really good. Then you can get the inside of the chain while it is between the cassette and crank. Then move to the chain rings and derailleurs. Once those are clean the rest just needs a basic brushing.

I usually also take care to get the brake calipers brushed out and the rim since you will get a lot of dust and dirt in there. Then rinse the bike down. You can then wipe the bike with a towel and bounce gentle on the wheels to get the excess water off. Oil your chain links, derailleurs and if needed the pedals. I use Triflow because of the awesome banana smell. http://www.amazon.com/Flow-Teflon-Bicycle-Lube-2oz/dp/B0002ITTK2

DO NOT spray high pressure water in the bottom bracket or anywhere else that you could possibly rinse out grease from. Substituting water for grease isn't a good idea.

You can (and will be the best way of cleaning it) remove the chain, but it's not that necesary. There are chain cleaning tools like this one that will do a great job without the need to remove it. As for the air compresor, like water, you should not use a lot of preassure on parts that have grease on them.

It's pretty easy, I just swapped out the crank on my S1 after an accident. You'll need a crank puller, adjustable wrench, some grease, and a torque wrench to install the new crank.

Thanks! Maybe love is a strong work but it has motivated me in many ways as well as help my wallet out too.

I've been looking for tools to carry in my backpack. Any you can recommend. I was looking at this tool. Seems to have what i might need to get out of a jam.

So far i haven't bumped into to many jerks, but i did have my first bump with a pedestrian yesterday, she came right from a corner into the bike lane just as i was turning the corner on a bridge. Luckily i was taking it pretty slow.

I have been slowly buying tools this year, based on what I need for basics. So far, this chain cleaner has got a lot of use. I also bought a gallon of simple green degreaser. This is concentrate so it should equal roughly 20 gallons as long as i dilute it. Also gets bar tape super white.

What you do is clean the chain, clean the cassette/crank with degreaser and brush, then lube the chain. The less grime in the chain, the longer the drive train will last.

I also bought a cassette sprocket and chain whip and will occationally (once every 1000 miles or so) take it off and give it a nice soaking and try to get it as clean as possible.

She's a beauty!

Also, if it's your first time with a carbon frame, I love this tiny torque wrench. It's not any bigger than any other multi-tool you might carry for stuff, but it'll keep you from overtightening something on that precioussss carbon frame.

as for tools what would i need? i was planning on buying this http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top to

• http://www.inno-bike.co.uk/products/105-high-tech-ketten-fluid/
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-CM5-2-Cyclone-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525689838&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tools+chain+cleaner

Grab a grunge brush off amazon.com

Here's a link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BS02LS/

That one does look rather flimsy. I have this one RAD Pro Bicycle Repair Stand

It works pretty well. Not as great as the full on park tools stands, but it does the job if I need to work on my bike at home.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036QZ8VQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1370220113&sr=8-2&pi=SL75
I picked these up last year and they lift the bike pretty solid. Pretty heavy stands for the price. Spools are about 15$ depending on the style etc. Really helps with chain cleaning/ lubricating, rear tire/ brake work etc. The "grunge brush" is a fantastic tool as well. Also cheap, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BS02LS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370220336&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
May not be "fun" gifts but endlessly useful if not already owned. happy spending!
Edit: just adding something to 6x9equals42's post, excellent ideas

i was having the same problem, not wanting to drop a ton of cash on a repair stand, and then came across this. check it out. great value.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0065PHDZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Week by week a chain whip, cassette removal tool, crescent wrench, a set of allen keys, a chain cleaning tool, and a little torque wrench (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4CQEGW/1) are what I use weekly to maintain my bikes.

Everything else I really only use once or twice a year. Things like bottom bracket tools, cable cutting tool, 4th hand tool, larger torque wrench. There are probably some other specialty tools I'm forgetting that I only use every couple of years.

Yes. I ordered the Tri-flow, but there are others as well.

I'm just rereading your post and I'm thinking of buying some of the things you mentioned. I'm specifically thinking about degreasing my drive chain.

Would you confirm for me that these are good purchases?

Chain cleaning gizmo:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q4NCZI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497653406&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+chain+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=51NbNChbn9L&ref=plSrch

Simple green (liquid and spray)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DORUJS4/ref=psdcmw_10802561_t1_B01HNCCIB6

I realized I need to buy some stuff to maintain my bike, and was looking for some input on what to get for the 'essentials'.

I need a repair stand. I was thinking about this model from Amazon. Seems to have decent reviews. I have a step-through bike so I guess I just hold it by the seat post and that's fine?

I also wanted to adjust my saddle position and the seat post length, do I need a torque wrench for this? I found this one. Should I just get a fixed torque one? Or just use normal hex keys and save my money?

For cleaning the chain and drive train, is it worth getting one of those special chain cleaning tools and cycle specific degreaser or can I just use "LA's Totally Awesome" cleaner and degreaser from Dollar Tree and a couple of floor scrub brushes held together? The Dollar Tree product I have already because I use it diluted as a general cleaner. At full strength it can soften certain plastics and remove some paints so it's pretty strong.

Is there any other stuff that I'm missing that I need for basic maintenance that I'm missing?

I can tell you one that you should avoid.

This one is garbage

source: I own one and hate every minute I use it

I got mine off Amazon and it's brilliant. It's $9.99, comes with a chain measuring tool and a nice little holder to keep your chain together when you're breaking links

$9.99 chain tool

The bike Stand is something I wish I bought sooner.
You can order this one:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0065PHDZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its cheaper and hold my 58lb ebike no problem. The Luna wrench can be use to remove certain bottom bracket, you'll find out ...
Forget about the soldering gun. Fenders are for wusses. Rear, rack, your battery will end up there soon enought in a luggage rack top bag. For donor bike, now is a super good time since all bike shop are liquidating bikes, go in there and measure Bottom Bracket and ask what type they are etc ...
For the Hydraulic brake, get the magnet sensor that cut the engne that you can glue on the brake levers.
The Gear sensors are almost never working unless they are maintained all the time and difficult to install because you have to cut the derailleur outer cable etc ...

I bought this stand from Amazon last Christmas, and it does well, works better than I expected. The only flaw is the vise-style clamp can take a while to loosen or tighten.

Feedback Sports Sport Mechanic Bicycle Repair Stand
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2S824/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shucks, your barrel adjuster looks pretty backed out already. Screw that guy back to a mid point, put your wheel back on so the caliper can bite the rotor and buy a tool to complete the job. This is kind of a bargain brake so there are limits on how perfect it will become without modulation.

May be time for some new pads also :)

Bicycle cable puller (11-45$), rarely need to use them but very handy for a pinch like this.

With the cable puller one one end and squeezing your brake lever on the other , you can see if maybe it is a cable housing issue (if it doesnt slide easily, water and debris can get in the line). Cable and housing is inexpensive 3-5$ cable, housing less than 1$ per foot. Jagwire makes teflon cables that seem to slide on anything (upper end).

Should help :)

If its still fussy after all of this , get a new brake 35$.
Never heard of your brand before.

https://www.rei.com/product/808779/avid-bb5-disc-brake-160mm?sku=8087790013&store=13&cm_mmc=PLA_Google_LIA%7C404_174403%7C8087790013%7Cnone%7C_kenshoo_clickid_%7Cpla-453412225845&lsft=cm_mmc:PLA_Google_LIA%7C404_174403%7C8087790013%7Cnone%7C_kenshoo_clickid_&kclid=_kenshoo_clickid_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItpSw0q_85AIVsx-tBh2cxA0EEAQYBSABEgIFvPD_BwE


https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-138900-Bicycle-Cable-Puller/dp/B000IZGF6A/ref=asc_df_B000IZGF6A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312125954623&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17308526862538999545&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032926&hvtargid=pla-442155551981&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63589537658&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312125954623&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17308526862538999545&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032926&hvtargid=pla-442155551981

those cable cutters suck.. try this Jagwire cutter

Bottom Bracket tools? like the BBT-22

Cassette tools? like the FR-5G

Also, it looks like you like to true your wheels enough to get a better spoke nipple wrench