Congrats on the new group set! It'll serve you well. This is a great time to do a complete teardown on the bike, clean it and re-build it fresh.

I'd suggest stripping the bike down to its bare essentials, including disassembling the pivots. Check the bearings especially for wear, as those often get missed. The only thing you might not be able to get out is the headset cups, which are pressed into the frame. Don't worry about those, but do take apart the headset and grease the bearings.

For lubrication and fluids, I'd suggest getting a can of
Tri-Flow and a tub of Teflon Grease (Doesn't need to be that big). Use the teflon in: Bottom Bracket Threads, Headset and a little in the seatpost. These will help prevent those parts from seizing over time.

Use the Tri-Flow in all the pivots, sealed bearings and other moving parts. On the bearings, dribble a bit on the plastic seal and then spin it... you will feel a difference immediately.

I don't know if you've bought this too, but invest in some new cable and housing while you're at it. Make sure to replace both at the same time, since new cables will be ruined by worn housing and vice versa. These should be replaced every year or so anyway and since it's going to be completely apart, you might as well.

Hope this helps and feel free to message me if you have questions or run into trouble... I do this a lot.

Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

It absolutely does. For example, SRAM's PressFit BB30 bottom brackets are very poorly greased and not known for their long lives. A new fresh layer of it does wonders for longevitiy. Me and friends have been using Phil Wood Waterproof Grease (Amazon link) with pretty good results. Marine specific bearing grease is also popular from what i've heard from others.

To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:

---
---

I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:

---

Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]

---

What you'll need:

• Genuine Cherry stabilizers
  
  • This is the most important component of a silent build. Don't waste your time with the cheap Chinese replicas.
    
  • Zeal stabilizers are fairly quiet out of the box but not everyone wants to spend that kind of money
    
    
• Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease
  
  
  • Use this for plastic-on-plastic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer housing inner walls)
    
    
• Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease
  
  • Use this for metal-on-platic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer wire tips and long side of bends)
    
  • Some use this for plastic-on-plastic but I hate how it gums and slows everything down; I use this grease mainly to fill up any gaps between the wire and plastic parts of the stabilizer - the primary source of stabilizer rattle.
    
    
• Fabric/cloth bandages
  
  • This serves two purposes:
    
    • Fills the gap between the stabilizer housing and the PCB to minimize wobble and thus, rattle (not a problem with screw-in stabs)
      
    • Cushions the bottoming out of stabilizer inserts. The inserts extend beyond the stabilizer housings when pushed all the way down and strike the surface of the PCB, leading to a loud "clack" and additional vibrations/movement that might cause the metal bits to rattle.
      
      
  • We use fabric instead of the water-resistant stuff (or tape) so that it absorbs and holds the dielectric grease.
    
    ---
    ---
    
    This is what they should sound like:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMIC1ZQ8Grw

Buy this grease:

White lightning grease

Buy this general lubricant:

Triflow

Buy this multi-tool:

Alien II It includes all common allen and wrench sizes, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.

Buy this socket set:

Ice tools 8 x 9 x 10

Get this adjustable wrench:

Wrench

Buy these tire levers:

Park tool levers

With all of that you should have more than enough to do basic maintenance with under $80 worth of tools.

As you get more skilled, you'll need some specialized tools for the bottom brackets, headsets, and cones on your wheels but those will vary by type/bike, and in time you will own multiple bikes so buy the tools when you when you need them.

TBH, I'd get a nice set of hex wrenches, and some grease for bolts and bearings. As you need to replace a chain, get a chain tool, if you need to remove the bottom bracket, get a bb tool, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Phil-Wood-3-Ounce-Grease-Tube/dp/B000WYANAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345758131&sr=8-1&keywords=phil+bike+grease

I've used this and could not tell the difference to CRK grease. No experience with anything Nano though.

Here's a video of me cleaning and putting the whole thing back together. And, yes, it still works.

The two plastic body pieces were soaked for 24 hours before scrubbing it down. The lube used in the video for the plastic contact points as well as the trackball rollers is Finish Line Extreme Fluoro.

A big thanks to my friend /u/jfgorski for the Alphagrip iGrip! Read his opinion on the device right here, he's been using these things for years and has much more insight than I could ever provide. Also, thanks to /u/ripster55 for letting me post this here.

I use thick bike grease and put some in flat bearings until I get the desired response. Bonus: makes the bearing silent, which is pretty cool.

Park Tools errday.

Fluronated grease like this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002L5UL92?cache=97a37de83a21196249043fbbf214fbd1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1410415440&sr=8-8#ref=mp_s_a_1_8

It's not an awful idea. I use a Teflon lube that I think works better. But lithium grease is better than nothing.

Mmm... you brush some krytox on those switch parts, then you rub some extreme fluoro on those stabilizers, you naughty typist.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

is this a compatible chain? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-speed-chains-chain-black/dp/B000NOPPTE

and is this the right kind of grease?https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-PolyLube-Lubricant/dp/B000NORVHI

DuPont Teflon White Lithium Grease Aerosol Spray, 10 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GKTZIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UAa.BbHFG98BS

I use this on everything

No problem, in no particular order of relevance, a few other great ones to consider are:

Knipex Pliers Wrench - My single favorite tool ever

Felco C7 Cable Cutters - You can usually find these used and sharpened for $20 on eBay

Dualco Grease Gun - Your bike needs grease, this makes it easy

Motorex 2000 Waterproof Grease - Can grease be beautiful? I think so. Exactly like the Dura Ace grease

Wera Hex+ Keys - I know you have some already, but the slightly scalloped faces of these "hex plus" keys really do allow you to remove very stuck fasteners without stripping, and I have even removed bolts stripped with standard keys

If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.

A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks

[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50

9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35

Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11

allen wrenches $11

None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.

White Lightning Crystal Grease

sure...here you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.


finish line - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/
permatex - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/

Ah okay, I use this for my bike stuff...you reckon' if i use this it will be awesome?

https://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Biodegradable-Non-Toxic-3-5-Ounce/dp/B003UAPX22/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=white+lightning+grease&qid=1567357510&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If you just want a basic multi-purpose spray grease you can buy this. It's fine for bike chains and is an actual grease, not something like WD-40. If you want something specifically for bicycles then this Shimano grease is probably a good bet.

Edit: Here's a dry chain lube specifically for bike chains.

Just searching on Amazon for 自転車 グリース turns up lots of results.

some people will argue with me, but 12 dollars for three ounces of grease https://www.amazon.com/Phil-Wood-3-Ounce-Grease-Tube/dp/B000WYANAG

I recommend DuMonde Tech Freehub Oil or Grease. Oil for Pawl type free hubs and grease for ratchet/clutch type.

Pawl-equipped freehubs include: 3T, American Classic (and those that use AC innards), Easton, Formula, Hed, Mavic, Reynolds, Shimano, SRAM, and Zipp.

The grease is for freehubs that work with a ratchet plate or clutch mechanism. Freehubs that utilize grease include: Campagnolo/Fulcrum, DT/Swiss (and those that use DT/Swiss innards), Chris King, Hadley, Industry 9 (they also are developing a hub that will need freehub oil), Stan’s, White Industries, and WTB.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For plastic on plastic ^

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For plastic on metal ^

The Permatex isn't a bike lube, but it's fantastic.

In the shop we use [Cyclus PTFE grease](
https://www.bike24.com/p215991.html), at home I have Finish Line PTFE grease, Liqui Moly marine grease and Nigrin Multi Purpose grease for general use. I have several speciality greases as well.

Nice looking! What lube did you end up using on the stabs? I think I tried the lube I had lying around on my last build: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and not sure that was the right call...

I highly recommend Hako Clears.

The tactile bump is very clear and high, giving a topre-like feel and a nice meaty cushion at the bottom.

I upgraded from cherry browns and it's like night and day, especially after I lubed both the stems (with [finish line extreme flouro teflon grease](Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease, 20g Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0TYtDb4EZ5ED3)) and the springs (with [dupont silicone lubricant](DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant Squeeze Bottle, 4 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCVXUVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ESYtDbT85X5A5)).

The extra work is 100% recommended for the smoothest tactile action I've ever felt.

Definitely just need to lube your stabilizers. Apply some of this to both the key inserts and the wire clip and you should be squeak free.

lube for your chain? this stuff is under $8 shipped

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-N-Roll-Gold-Chain-Lube-4oz/dp/B000QU8CGI/

grease for most other parts of your bike? this stuff is $6.25, but if you have more time than money, look into getting some marine grease from a sailing store- it's supposed to be the same price for like 5 times as much

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/

Finish Line Extreme Flouro is what most people (including me) use. You can find it here on Amazon for around $12. Also, with the whole car part grease thing, I would suggest wiping that off. Some greases can eat away at plastics. /u/ripster55 did a whole lube guide and put it on the Wiki, I would suggest taking a look at it.

They're excellent. I'm loving the MX reds. All the keys are boobs except maybe stabilizer keys, but using ripster's guide to lubing and this, the pinging and movement did seem to improve.

> 26.9

Is that a thing?! What a world!

> Friction paste

Is this what you're thinking of?

here is a link to the lube i got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If that is this, then no - don't use it for switches.

However this is a good lube for stabs where plastic and plastic touch.

Just got one the other day! I found some grease on Amazon that works great if you run out/don't want to use the included stuff

I picked this up off a recommendation on this forum and it has worked for my pok3r: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this on my bike, so I had it lying around. It also happens to be recommended for stabilizers too:

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92

People also recommend Dielectric Grease, I haven't tried it personally but it's also a good option.

If you haven't the tools to get at the pawls, not to mention putting things back together... your local bike shop should be able to take care of it with some Lubriplate Mag-1 (expensive grease), ParkTool Grease (great stuff), Phil Wood Grease (amazing stuff) or perhaps some Boshield T-9 lube (light lube).

Are you saying to use an oil based lube or grease like Park Tools

I use this PTFE teflon lubricant. It's one of the slipperiest substances on earth, Dupont usually costs 2 - 3 x as much as this stuff I use

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It comes in a handy syringe which makes it really easy to use small quantities. And youi get a lifetime supply.

I usually end up getting a TusqXL nut which is made from a teflon impregnated plastic. But I use this stuff otherwise.

So I'm thinking of building my own keyboard, although it won't really be the whole building experience because I won't be soldering. I want to get an XD75RE because it uses a hotswappable pcb and an ortholinear layout (which I really want to try out). I have a few questions:

Are there any other PCBs that have hotswappable sockets? (That isn't the GK64 because I don't like the non-standard stagger, ortho is fine but a completely new stagger that isn't used on any other keyboard.

Can I buy any 60% keyboard case for the XD75RE? I want to see if I can get a wooden case. The reason why I am asking this is because on the product page it says that it's possible to use any GH60 case with the pcb in using their shim conditions and I don't know what that means.

I want to have the layout that has the longer spacebar keys but this is the only plate that I found: https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd75re/products/stainless-steel-plate-for-xd75re-60-custom-keyboard-mechanical-keyboard-plate-support-xd75re and I'm pretty sure that this is only for the only 1u layout. Is there another plate available that I haven't found yet?

Will this keycap set be fine for the XD75RE? https://novelkeys.xyz/products/blue-grey-xda-keycap-set If not, can you recommend a different keycap set for it?

What kind of cable does the XD75RE need? It doesn't specify it on the product page.

Do I need stabilizers if I find a plate for the longer spacebar layout? If so will a standard cherry stabilizer kit cover it? And is this lube fine for stabilizers? (I will probably buy it anyways for future builds) https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92

Is there anything I'm missing? I already know I need a case, plate, pcb, stabilizers (if necessary), lube for stabilizers, switches (I already have a bunch of loose switches), keycaps, and a cable? Sorry if this was really long, this is my first time buying custom parts and I don't want to mess it up.

At Amazon for $10.76.

http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92

You don't HAVE to go to Japan to get exotic keyboard lubes. Buy American.

Frankly Permatex silicone or just about any brand silicone grease or Lithium White grease is fine FOR STABILIZERS, not switches.
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wx9bv/rmechanicalkeyboards_toolkit_item_4_there_is/

OK lubed all the stabilizers. It's not a instant fix and it's slowly getting better as I type and work the lube around. Probably have about a hour of typing on it since the lube job. Flipped the Enter key back to its proper orientation and so far no squeak or stiffness and the rattling has diminished to almost non existent on all the long keys. The spacebar still has a little but not when hitting it in my natural typing location. Overall I'm pleased with the results. And here is what I used A lot bigger than I anticipated. I'll have enough to lube keyboards for the rest of my life since I only used a pencil tip size dot on each corner of the stab.

I'm not too savvy on the lube types. The one that I have is this one. I read the reviews and quite a few mention lubing KBs or lubing ABS plastic, etc.

Here's an image from geekhack in an old thread showing where to put the lube. The amount of lube you apply to each slider is very minimal, think like an apple seed, I usually just place it on the bottom corner and let the slider lube itself in use.

Lube makes the board quieter bar none. I used WASD keyboards lube the first time around, but I'm not too happy with it, so I'm going to use another lube next with the board, (this)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1] one, once I get all the way fed up with the performance on the WASD lube. I have hope for it yet. But either way lubed and ringed is the way to go for a topre board, the thocks are the most satisfying thing ever.

I use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UVISZO/

I'm a bit newer to lubing mechanical switches and I reeeeaaallyyy just cant find any good info when it comes to what lube to use for mechanical switches. I plan on lubing both my stabilizers and switches, though I wanna know if the lube I'm planning on using for my stabilizers will work well for my switches aswell.

The lube in question

If this won't work well or will destroy my switches, which lube is recommendable for them?

AmazonSmile Link 1: https://smile.amazon.com/Shimano-speed-chains-chain-black/dp/B000NOPPTE

AmazonSmile Link 2: Park Tool PPL-1 PolyLube 1000 Lubricant

^Use AmazonSmile to donate 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost to you.

Thanks for the response; I guess have no choice but to lube them since the man himself suggests to do so! I currently have this lube would it work as the thick lube?

> Are there any other PCBs that have hotswappable sockets? (That isn't the GK64 because I don't like the non-standard stagger, ortho is fine but a completely new stagger that isn't used on any other keyboard.

Bare pcbs? I know lfkeyboards has a few now. Pricey but unique.

> Can I buy any 60% keyboard case for the XD75RE? I want to see if I can get a wooden case. The reason why I am asking this is because on the product page it says that it's possible to use any GH60 case with the pcb in using their shim conditions and I don't know what that means.

Technically it has the mount points but getting it in there is a clusterfuck that results in either a wobbly board or having to shim and cut switches. IMO its way too much work and you are much better off going with a case designed for the board.

> I want to have the layout that has the longer spacebar keys but this is the only plate that I found: https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd75re/products/stainless-steel-plate-for-xd75re-60-custom-keyboard-mechanical-keyboard-plate-support-xd75re and I'm pretty sure that this is only for the only 1u layout. Is there another plate available that I haven't found yet?

What do you mean longer spacebar? Like 6.25? Not going to happen with this grid layout. Some people use point of sale style keycaps as spacebars which is one 2u or 3u keycap that occupies multiple switches. It obviously makes it harder to press because you have resistance of multiple switches.

> Will this keycap set be fine for the XD75RE? https://novelkeys.xyz/products/blue-grey-xda-keycap-set If not, can you recommend a different keycap set for it?

If you are ok with legends not matching for modifiers its ok. Otherwise seek out ortho specific sets and build on them with something like a numpad or blanks.

> What kind of cable does the XD75RE need? It doesn't specify it on the product page.

mini usb

> Do I need stabilizers if I find a plate for the longer spacebar layout? If so will a standard cherry stabilizer kit cover it? And is this lube fine for stabilizers? (I will probably buy it anyways for future builds) https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92

XD75re doesnt use stabilizers.

> Is there anything I'm missing? I already know I need a case, plate, pcb, stabilizers (if necessary), lube for stabilizers, switches (I already have a bunch of loose switches), keycaps, and a cable? Sorry if this was really long, this is my first time buying custom parts and I don't want to mess it up.

Make sure the switches are all new and have never been previously soldered because that can harm the sockets.

I would fill the gaps with grease, the thicker the better, which you can buy in a tube, which will not easily be displaced, which will keep the air from entering. But if my answer is off, it's because i don't have an exact picture or understanding of what is really going on. Is the hole in the metal (?) rusting or missing metal, or a moving part ? If the hole is not a moving part, disregard my answer, and allow me another one. Maybe this for my first guess. https://www.amazon.com/Torco-T300160ZE-Multi-Purpose-Waterproof-Grease/dp/B000VJP5P0/ref=sr_1_24?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473647591&sr=1-24&keywords=tube+lithium+grease

Hi. Italian here!

• Recently i bought Finish Line Extreme Fluoro for stabs after a long research, is the fastest that you can get and is not bad.
  
  
• CandyKeys has SuperLube! Is also cheap for europe, i did a test, if you get 10 superlubes is 7 euro + 4 euro DHL shipping, 11 euro for Italy is pretty good imho
  
  
• Also SwitchTop has SuperLube, shipping is something like 8$ to Italy but if you need something other from the shop, may be worth it, otherwise CandyKeys is better!
  
  
• Krytox/Teflon formula from Pexon
  
  From what i saw, Krytox is usually better, not sure what is Pexon formula but the original Krytox is used to be better but is also pretty expensive, especially to Italy, I would say just go for that Finish Line on Amazon or SuperLube from CandyKeys and you will be fine :)
  
  Ciao!

I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:

https://www.amazon.fr/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518365758&sr=8-1&keywords=synthetic+grease

edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366940&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+extreme

edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex

Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)

It is a good idea to apply some form of grease after removing and cleaning the key caps. I prefer a simple teflon grease, something like this.

You quoted the Speedsolving wiki, which doesn't cite any sources.

MSDS survey for CRC Heavy Duty Silicone, aka what I've seen for sale in my local Wal-Mart, says, contains petrolium distilates. It contains acetone, which is bad for plastic. It contains n-heptane, which is a petrolium distilate. You'll also see that CRC contains 2-5% Polydimethylsiloxane, which would be the silicone lubricant, and 30-40% acetone, which will eat your plastic.

Liquid Wrench also contains several distillates, such as 1,2,4-trimethylbenzene, ethylbenzine, and isopropylbenzene. These distilates will evaporate. There are solvents in this product as well.

All of these chemicals listed are potentially harmful for people and plastics (the MSDS sheets for both of these products say to wear proper protection, and not to inhale). I'm not a chemist, but AFAIK, the petrolium distilates listed in each of these products are propellants, and will evaporate somewhat quickly. The main problem with CRC, which seems to be ignored, or a non-problems, is that it contains acetone, which is a solvent. It can be used to carry a lubricant, but it will also damage plastics (see CrazyBadCuber's video where he tries to dye a stickerless Zhanchi to make it competition-legal, he softens and mars the plastic with a home-made acetone dye). CRC also has a reputation for damaging cubes over time, softening the plastic, leading to deforming the puzzle. I'm sure if more people used Liquid Wrench, they would see the exact same problems.

After checking all of this out to try to help, and to understand it all a bit better myself, I'd say avoid the spray lubes, and just buy a bottle of traxxas/tube of lubicle/lubix/whatever else. The sprays are mostly propellants and solvents, and maximum 7% lubricant.

There may be more to it, but based on this, I would say avoid canned sprays like the plague. Everything I found just now says they are hazardous to your health if used improperly. Some people (I think Feliks Zemdegs among them, to give this some authority) use them successfully, but I personally wouldn't risk my puzzles with these products. The MSDS sheet states that CRC Silicone is dangerous if consumed, so why would I put that on a toy I'll be handling regularly with my bare hands?

If you really need something you can buy in a store, buy a tube of White Lightning Crystal Grease. It's non-toxic, food-safe, and very effective. It's thicker than Traxxas 50k, though so a little dab'll do ya. It was the first thing I ever used on a Rubik's brand, and it worked fine.

You could use gun oil for that part. If you don't have anything like that around, use motor oil and see if it starts to cure your problem. If the motor oil works, order something like this https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92 and change it out when it arrives.

I just found that this lube is cheaper than the super lube, and pretty widely used. As for the stabilizers, this stuff seems pretty good.

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease Tube was a suggestion I got from a YouTuber and it works really well so far. A bit expensive but you don't use a lot so lasts forever.

Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000AL8VD2/?coliid=I1N71VWMGGSOXK&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

US: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&pf_rd_r=EVNQKENT60XP5CXEPJJ7

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Also for plastic on plastic lube (the stems of the stabilizers, do not use inside of switches) this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002L5UL92/?coliid=I3VPHHQD2B8350&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Is there anything to be careful of besides non-conductivity when looking for a grease? I saw this on a Ripster guide and I think I'm gonna order it: https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466142797&sr=8-1&keywords=Extreme+Fluoro+Grease

The brakes are probably pre bled. You will probably have to cut the cables to proper length though. If you are careful it can be done without needing a bleed, but its a good idea to have a bleed kit. If you ride often, you will probably want to bleed every 3 to 6 months anyways.

Also, you will want some good grease. This park tools stuff is good and can be used for headset and bb.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124475&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tools+grease

Bleed kit like this would get you started if you have Shimano brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Mineral/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124626&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano+bleed+kit

Edit: also, I noticed your comment below about making a headset press from a threaded rod and some washers. I do this. Used it to press in a couple headsets, and a press fit bottom bracket. Worked great and costs like $10.

Just stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=57563159993&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAn8nuBRCzARIsAJcdIfNPOruNKKQn6_x2lnWydPZhQYU0iGAf611XHL5JNZzrI9QAV-ywZQQaAtgpEALw_wcB&hvadid=274872390383&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9017492&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4441170935943728956&hvtargid=kwd-302453330784&hydadcr=12192_10197807&keywords=keyboard+lube&qid=1574086449&sr=8-4 sorry I don’t know how to do blue text

Loctite 660

I’ve started using Teflon bicycle lube. It never dries out!

Finish Line Premium Grease made with Teflon Fluoropolymer, 3.5 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5YYYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EPKiDbD5MQR9Z

would this lube be fine for lubing cherry stabs? or finish line?

Would this work for lubing PCB mounted Cherry style stabs?

(English isn't my first language so i'm sorry if there are some errors)
I just bough a poker 3 and the spacebar is squeaky as hell, so I was about to buy this, but I've read that it will crumble in a month or so and my only other option is this one, but I don't know if it can be used on stabilizers,so which one should i buy?

My $.02... No grease on QR seatposts. Clean your frame and post with 91%, and apply anti seize.

I use this stuff with zero issues (seatposts, pedals, bottom brackets) http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Anti-Seize-Assembly-Lubricant/dp/B000FPQE3M

No slips, on the cheap, done deal.

Springs/linear switches

Stabs

Tactiles

If I have to recommend, bike specific like pro gold. But, in this case, it's not a moving parts, if you have any grease laying around, just use it.

I use this stuff. Zero complaints. Not good for springs though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jn9DCbV9TRYWD

Go at it! And above all, have fun. I did this earlier this year with a 1977 Raleigh Grand Prix, then again with a 1985 Lotus Challenger SX. It can get shitty at times, but its so worth it in the end. I feel like I tell everyone this, but Sheldon Brown is awesome and you can find almost everything you need to know there—at least enough for what you're doing.
As a side note, you'll need new grease when/if you take the bottom bracket apart, Park Tool's is really great.

First. READ UP ON HYDRAULIC BRAKES BEFORE YOU START. DO NOT ALLOW THE LEVERS TO COMPRESS W/O A ROTOR OR BLEED BLOCK BETWEEN THE PADS OR YOU'LL HYPEREXTEND THE PISTONS. OTHERWISE:

You're lucky. If your bike has hydraulic brakes there is probably very little on your bike you can't disassemble with a set of hex keys from 2.5-10mm, possibly a T-25 torx, and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. Depending on your wheels you'll need cone wrenches to set the bearings and depending on your crankset and bottom bracket you MAY need specialty tools. To work on your cassette (I'm ASSUMING CASSETTE DUE TO HYDRAULIC BRAKES) you'll need a cassette lockring tool AND a chainwhip (or other method to hold onto the cassette).

Let's see some specs or photos.



When it comes to assembly, though, especially for the stem and saddle, torque matters.

$7 Park Polylube or $10 Phil's waterproof grease or Marine grease

and

$6 TriFlow or $8 Finish Line Dry

and

$8 lifetime supple of anti-sieze for all metal-to-metal (including threads) which does not move or get frequently disassembled

and



$16 at Sears, $10 at Harbor Freight socket-drive Allen set

0-9 nM torque wrench for $22. A VERY useful range extension over the 0-7 of the Park Tool TW-1. And do not be afraid of cheap beam wrenches! Be afraid of expensive clickers but not cheap beam!

$2 T-25 socket drive (brake rotors)

$15 chain tool

$7 cassette lockring tool

$7 shitty chainwhip (you need something to hold cassette to use cassette lockring tool)

I strongly suggest the above torque wrench (or its equivalent) for all small bolts on a bike. If you want to be safe with the big bolts (mostly on the bottom bracket and crankset depending on styles) you also need:

$25 at Sears, $15-20 at Harbor Freight or auto parts stores high-torque torque wrench (Much less often needed)

EDIT: Spelling fixes and some minor rewording.