Best camera power adapters according to redditors
We found 262 Reddit comments discussing the best camera power adapters. We ranked the 89 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 262 Reddit comments discussing the best camera power adapters. We ranked the 89 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
So you're going to need an A/C adapter.
The one I use
Canon official
You need a mini HDMI cable. I purchased this adapter so my screen isn't completely covered and I can use any HDMI cable I have laying around.
That plugs into an Elgato Cam Link but any capture card should work.
Make sure the camera is set to video mode. I'm not at the camera now so I can't get you my exact settings but disable any auto shutoff and HDMI interface. There is no way to disable the side screen from shutting off after 30 minutes max.
Bonus: I've got it clamped to the back of my monitor with this mount.
Overheating depends on the camera, on a Canon 7D it will overheat after a while but I can run constant video from my 5D Mark II's and Mark III's for hours. Easy to try, just turn on the video liveview mode at home, and see how long before the camera turns off by itself.
That article from Planet 5D which /u/kickstand linked is what I used to get started as well, worked for me when I needed it and I streamed video to a ustream.tv channel that people were able to log in to.
I use the ACK-E6AC adapter to plug my Canon's into the wall when I stream so I don't have to worry about power issues. This adapter works for any LP-E6 battery so just get the right one for your camera. http://www.amazon.com/Canon-ACK-E6AC-Adapter-Mark-Digital/dp/B001KBZ3PK/
Just get an NPF adapter and a couple NPF batteries. It would probably cost you around $60 and accomplish the same thing with a much smaller footprint.
https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Battery-Plate-Adapter-BMPCC/dp/B01EFSUK98
https://www.amazon.com/DSTE-Replacement-MVC-CD1000-DCR-VX2100E-NEX-FS700RH/dp/B00M3P9YBQ
https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-Charger-NP-F730/dp/B00FPZY0BK
One of those batteries will keep you going for several hours.
Windows Mixed Reality will automatically track and recognize different rooms that you've set up, as long as things haven't changed too much since the last time it saw it.
My Odyssey is on an Alienware 17R4 that I move between multiple locations, and I almost never have to setup the rooms again. I just wave the headset around a bit when I start the WMR portal and let it scan across the room and floor and it almost always automatically recognizes the room and restores my boundaries.
Even if it says it couldn't match the room and prompts for setup, it's actually still looking and matching, so don't give up immediately, wave it around a bit more, and it might still pick up the old scan.
If you need a long cable run between rooms, I suggest buying a Vive Link Box and power supply, and use it in the middle of the cable run to boost the signal and power. And also use active extensions cables.
Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
I got this dummy battery: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1VL3TRKDA8UWZ&colid=OFFMLV3I01BI
It works pretty well. I'm able to even use the built in flash while powering the camera with it, so it'll be more than capable of powering it for use as a webcam.
One thing that I have heard of happening with it is static in the recorded audio if using an external mic going into the camera.
The wall adapter outputs 8.8v, which is within the safe power range for the camera. The camera says it takes 8.4v, though I found that if you drop down to 8.4v, you sometimes get error messages saying something along the lines of "this battery is not supported", and the camera shuts down. Something to do with external power sources requiring a higher voltage than batteries.
I personally don't even use the AC adapter with mine, I use one of those USB to 9v adapters (I made mine, but there are plenty on Amazon) and a USB battery bank to deliver power to the dummy battery. (If you do this, make sure the battery bank is capable of 5v2a output) [Note: The flash does not work when powering it off a USB battery bank as it draws too much power. Though with your use, you should be fine.]
The longest I tested this was about 1.5 hours of 1080p30fps recording (I was observing whether or not there are any skipped frames between each file that the recording gets split into, and I didn't see any). It worked fine, and the camera still works fine. It was also able to handle 4K30fps recording just fine as well.
If you decide to go the safer route and just get more batteries, I've heard these are great: https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-DMW-BLC12E-DMW-BLC12PP-DMC-FZ1000/dp/B0050K6GH6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511672411&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=wasabi+power+lumix+g7&psc=1
I went this route originally, very cumbersome form factor. These are not really designed for cameras, although it will of course work. Instead, I replaced it with this solution:
Runshuangyu Movie Blackmagic Cinema Camera BMCC 4K BMPCC Power Supply Mount Plate Adapter for Sony NP-F970 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMZRKWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6HKgDbDN4VXAY
Powerextra Multifunctional Battery Pack Power Bank with USB Output for Sony NP-F970, NP-F975, NP-F960, NP-F950, NP-F930 Battery and Smart Phones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M189SS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NIKgDbZD7HP5T
Much more manageable and the bricks can power two more items plus the camera simultaneously. I've got 4 bricks and each will last between 1.5-2 hours on a charge.
Also, the brick you ordered takes FOREVER to charge up.
As some friendly advice, I'd cancel your order and instead go with the solution above. I'm confident you'll be more satisfied.
I love this v-mount battery plate:
HEDBOX | Unix-BM | V Mount/Lock Battery Adapter Plate, with 1x USB 5V/2.1A and 3X D-Tap 14.8V/148W Power Out, Regulated 12V/50W Power via 20in/50cm Breakaway Cable with 2-Pin Connector for BMPCC 4K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1M23QN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C5tADbDQHV0EM
It has 3 D-Taps and one USB port (powering a small monitor) and it comes with the 2-Pin connector cable that plugs right into the BMPCC4K!
You will need to mount it onto a plate on your rig. I got this camvate and it mounts perfectly but there are others.
CAMVATE Multi-Purpose Mounting Cheese Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YTFZ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_99tADbVK192QQ
Finally if you want to save a little money on vmount batteries you can use this alternative until you save up for a good v-mount:
This $20 v-mount adapter attaches the Hedbox to give you the option to use NPF batteries.
Neewer NP-F Battery to V-Mount Battery Converter Adapter for LED Light, Field Monitor, 5D2 Rigs, Alternative Battery Option for Sony V-Mount Gear, Fits for 2-Pack Sony NP-F970, NP-F770,NP-F570 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R8DMKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m6tADbQCDAHW2
And you can buy 2 NPF 970s for $35
NP F975, NP F970, NP F960, NP F950 2X Replacement Li-ion for Sony DCM-M1 MVC-CD1000 HDR-FX1 DCR-VX2100E DSR-PD190P NEX-FS700RH HXR-NX3 (Dual Battery) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S0VNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F.tADbW4H2N5V
Cheap $16 NPF dual charger:
Powerextra Dual Battery Charger with USB LCD Display for Sony NP-F970 NP-F930 NP-F950 NP-F960 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G7MJKRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yguADbDG636AC
$27 dual charger with LED:
SR SUN ROOM NEW Dual Channel LCD Display Charger For Sony NP-F550 NP-F570 NP-F750 NP-F770 NP-F930 NP-F950 NP-F960 NP-F970 NP-FM55H NP-FM500H NP-QM71 NP-QM91 NP-QM71D NP-QM91D Camcorder Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CG7P4YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EfuADbN81BWDN
I run this setup and it works GREAT!
u/cityescape3 - the least expensive way to get 3 hours of continuous shooting is with a $19.99 SmallRig battery plate, a $24.50 12V to Weipu cable and a $37.99 set of two NP-F970 batteries & a dual charger.
You can attach the plate either to a pistol grip (as seen here) with a 1/4"-20 male to male screw or use the included bracket to attach it to the top of the camera - as seen in this video with the OG BMPCC .
This should be relatively easy to do with your cage.
Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the right external power solution for your needs!
A 12V Power Supply
Simple PC Fan, 12V
PWM Controller
The wall wart will supply 12V with a max of 1A of current. 12V computer fans of that size use at most 0.5A. The PWM controller will control the fan speed. It works by sending out DC pulses, also known as a square wave, of different lengths based on where the knob is set.
To hook up:
There are 4 terminals on the PWM Controller. Look on the bottom to see the polarity. Should be +,- Power and +,- Motor. They're screw terminals so she won't need to solder anything.
Simply hook up the red fan wire to the Motor + terminal, and the black fan wire to the Motor - terminal.
Next, WHILE THE WALL WART IS UNPLUGGED, splice the cable so you have some copper showing at an end. If it has red and black, simply repeat what you did with the fan but use the Power terminals. If the wires are the same color, you can use a multimeter to figure out the polarity.
Schematic
seriously, the first thing you need to do is go buy one of these, and get that bulky PC power supply out of there.
https://www.tindie.com/products/emergentdevices/pc-fan-power-breakout-board/
+ this to power it: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00452YFZU
I use the Kapaxen EH-5/EP-5B for my D810 and it works great, never had an issue with it and it's a great price at $40. Here's the EH-5/EP-5A which works with your D3300:
http://www.amazon.com/Kapaxen-Adapter-Coolpix-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00A98R0QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459187995&sr=8-1&keywords=kapaxen+eh-5
Just to clarify, the original wire free Arlo cameras which use lithium 123 batteries do not have an Arlo approved constant power source (there are unsupported options). On the other hand, the Pro models can be powered using micro USB.
I only have 1 hdmi as well and needed to extend my Rift so use a Vive Link Box w/this psu, which works great. It's an active repeater made for VR and is not finicky about cables, use whatever ones you want. It has a mini displayport input (and hdmi, either work) so I use a dp > mini dp cable along with a usb. It's nice to have a clean/functional breakout box to plug into in my living room where I use it even though my computer is in my bedroom.
Spend $5 more and get an external battery that comes with a plug
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D67LTIK/
Hope this helps
2 12V Photoelectric relays
12V motor
6mm bore pully to match motor shaft
Project box
2 limit switches
Solar panel
Battery
If not solar powered. Aka no solar panel or battery
If you have any other questions let me know I am at work and I will answer what I can on my phone
Edit: I forgot a pully to run the rope from, but the motor I linked has so much torque you could go direct no problem, and lumbar to build the door. I estimated about 10$ for wood. I used all treated, as that's what I had laying around, but its probably not necessary as most of the door on my design was in the coop. I can make you a wiring diagram as well if you are interested. That reminds me you should use 4 zener diodes (just because you only need 4 doesn't mean you shouldn buy a 100 for future projects :) also if you goto an electronics store you will pay 5-6$ for 6 diodes) to stop flash back through the whole circuit from the reversing of polarity with the motor.
I use this, it's $16.99, but you need something like this to power it.
I wouldn't expect a USB-C charge to work fast enough to make it that usable but there are dummy to USB charger adapters on amazon for the GH5 to power it from a USB power bank. It gives me about a 5.5 hour life from a 10,000 mah power bank, up from the 1.8 to 2 hours from a standard battery. I can't find an exact kit for a LP6N, but I think you could use that GH5 kit and a dummy battery for the Canon and link them up? Check all your voltage before you go trying it though!
There are Sony NP battery to Weipu taps that you can use also and those are a simple solution as far as size and weight to battery life. The one below is ok, works fine but it's screw connector is totally stupid, I drilled out the threads to use it properly.
Weipu to NP plate
USB bank for GH5
Yes!
I use this combination as a battery solution:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3TWBXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1SDRS5D54HY4U&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MMZRKWK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=AGNG3CODDNL8&psc=1
When I'm using it with the Ronin S, I rig it on the side using 1/4" accessory I picked up from amazon.
I have an Odyssey+ and these are what I have been using for about 6 months and I have had no problems:
Vive Link
10ft HDMI
10ft USB 3.0
12ft Power Supply Adapter
Power Supply
Seconding /u/Theobidis's recommendation of the AC adapter, but I use one more like this one which is $20 on amazon vs. Canon's official $140 one. I know that these cheaper options often have quality issues, but I've been using the same one for about 2 years for film and as part of my timelapse rig, and have had zero issues with it! Good luck with your stream!
I decided to stalk /u/call_mecthulhu's wishlist. Fun fact about /u/call_mecthulhu, they have a lot of the same interests as me and I even added some items (SFW and NSFW) =P to my wishlist because of their wishlists. =D
I noticed this was listed as a highest priority, but since that is practical and not fun...I'll also say this or this.
...I always feel like somebody's watching meee...
Thanks for the lovely contest! You're awesome!
I need this charger for my daughters baby monitor. I was going to buy it last week but then bam! car accident. I want to soak in a hot tub after the week I've had! Thanks for the contest!
Any 12vdc supply rated higher than what the fan demands should be fine.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU
I live stream podcasts with multiple angles. Someone recently asked me about all the gear I use to do it so I made a list.
Program - This is the program I use to broadcast. You can stream and record at the same time.
https://streamlabs.com/
Cameras
https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-Mirrorless-14-42mm-Megapixels-DMC-G7KK/dp/B00X409PQS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=panasonic+g7&qid=1558477000&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Dummy Battery for cameras
https://www.amazon.com/Gonine-DMW-BLC12-Replacement-PANASONIC-DMC-FZ200/dp/B01D69P0UG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=32A1OGUQ5XENW&keywords=lumix+g7+dummy+battery&qid=1558477179&s=gateway&sprefix=lumix+g7+dum%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Capture cards - These are used to connect the cameras to the PC
https://www.amazon.com/Capture-Broadcast-Streaming-Grabber-Converter/dp/B0779ZJZX3/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=JC99JTVRO2VM&keywords=capture+card&qid=1558477097&s=gateway&sprefix=capture+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1
HDMI to MICRO HDMI - capture card to camera
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Speed-Micro-Resolution/dp/B004C3HZCC/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=hdmi+to+micro+hdmi&qid=1558477350&s=gateway&sr=8-10
Audio Interface
https://www.amazon.com/Alesis-MultiMix-8-Channel-Interface-Headphones/dp/B07D7HKS1H/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=audio+interface+alesis&qid=1558477609&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Microphones
https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Dynamic-Cardioid-Microphone/dp/B077YPDG5Q/ref=sr_1_30?keywords=xlr+dynamic+microphone&qid=1558477879&s=gateway&sr=8-30
had a similar issue with my 1080ti and believe it or not the easiest fix was to buy a htc vive link box. i tried tons of repeaters and other adapters and nothing worked. got the link box and suddenly my oculus can easily run even the cable listed here:- https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-vr-extension-cable-black/5706844.p?skuId=5706844 which is notorious for not working on most gpus. you can buy the link box on amazon here:- https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV but keep in mind that you will have to get the power adapter seperately. i'm using this one with no issues whatsoever:- https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/
I received this 15' displayport cable extension today and have tested it to my satisfaction that it works well (combined with the stock Pro displayport cable). I also use this 15' USB cable. If you would prefer to extend the power cord without having a giant junction visible of that big HTC wall plug to an extension cord, you can use this power plug, combined with this extender.
This. This is the easiest/cheapest way to go. This plate and take your pick of battery capacity from this brand, DSTE.
The NP-F 970s last about 3-4 hours depending on conditions and the much smaller NP-F 550s last over an hour, up to 2, again, depending on conditions.
I found using a cage for the BMPCC like this was helpful for attaching it. It’s definitely not a perfect solution but absolutely one of the cheapest. The biggest fault I’ve found would be that the Battery plate gets absolutely no feedback from the camera, so it constantly drains the battery until you physically unhook it from the plate, even when not charging/powering the camera.
I’ve also heard great things about this battery/power solution from a lot of guys who use the BMPCC and BMCC but haven’t used it myself. I can confirm that a 12v usb battery bank will also do the job, I use the same cord from my battery plate to connect it but you can order them separate simply by searching amazon for “BMPCC Cords”
Did i miss something? I thought that the A7SII is only supposed to be able to record for a max of 30 minutes. How are you wanting it to record for an entire day?
​
Could this work for power?
Do you want to record video every second of a 5 hour session or would a time lapse be OK? (1 photo every minute maybe)
Most cameras have a battery adapter option, basically it plugs into the camera where the battery usually fits, the other end plugs into the wall for constant power.
Unfortunately I don't know the proper search term for these adapters, here's a knockof version for Sony mirrorless https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-AC-PW20-SLT-A33L-SLT-A55V-SLT-A55VL/dp/B0083EQS3I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421608307&sr=8-2&keywords=sony+ac-pw20
https://www.amazon.com/MK-A6500-Pro-Controller-Vertical-shooting-Mirroless/dp/B06XS8N639 for battery grip,
and AC adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083EQS3I/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2QAQFXKWFOQY2
I'm in your general area. It's 38 right now. I have regular Arlo cameras outside for the second consecutive year. Last year I burned through a bunch of those expensive batteries and adopted adapters like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Adapter-NETGEAR-Security-Batteries/dp/B078Z6N2Q7
I then covered the flat strips on the leads for those with electrical tape and covered that with plastic conduit.
All of my cameras currently register as full battery. These adapters are the only reason I kept the arlo cameras. The batteries were too expensive, I was going through them too quickly, and changing them was annoying since my cameras are out of reach.
I kept mine outside last year until the blizzards hit. They were in temps at about 20 - 24 and probably would have been fine but, I pulled them in due to the magnitude of the storms and put them back out maybe a week or so later.
CUK Stratos Gaming PC (Intel i9-9900K with Liquid Cooling, 32GB RAM, 1TB NVMe SSD + 2TB, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB, 750W PSU, AC WiFi, Windows 10) Gamer Desktop Computer with 7 RGB Halo Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRXRJZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YHe5Cb2M3MEHY
Adamant Custom 16X-Core Workstation Desktop Computer PC AMD RYZEN Threadripper 1950X 3.4Ghz 32Gb DDR4 3TB HDD 250Gb SSD 750W PSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQ5DK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LLe5Cb88QKHQG
Elgato Stream Deck - Live Content Creation Controller with 15 customizable LCD keys, adjustable stand, for Windows 10 and macOS 10.11 or later https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKNZT1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GMe5CbF7SEQ7P
(I have a guide on my post history on how to wire, what cables you need and usb sound cards with amazon links)
Yamaha MG12XU 12-Input 4-Bus Mixer with Effects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IBIVLKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9Me5Cb83KZ5FZ
(Remake of the 3600 dollar neuman u-87 mic, what I use currently)
Warm Audio WA-87 Large-diaphragm Condenser Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6DIGGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Re5CbC388MGW
Elgato Game Capture HD60 S (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MSJP82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BNe5Cb1C55PNG
Canon EOS Rebel SL2 DSLR Camera Body w/Advanced Photo & Travel Bundle - Includes: Altura Photo Backpack, SanDisk 64gb SD Card, Wrist Strap and Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774VTNY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7Qe5CbXRSDEYH
Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Wide Angle Lens w/ Essential Photo Bundle - Includes: Altura Photo UV-CPL-ND4, Dedicated Lens Hood, Neoprene Lens Pouch, Camera Cleaning Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VGWFKH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ORe5Cb846HHQ0
AmazonBasics 50-Inch Lightweight Tripod with Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XI87KV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RWe5CbZN4M736
AmazonBasics High-Speed Mini-HDMI to HDMI TV Adapter Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UEGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nXe5CbJPSB4C1
FIT-POWER ACK-E18 DR-E18 AC Power Adapter Charger DC Coupler Kit (Replace LP-E17 Battery) For Canon EOS Rebel T6i T6s T7i SL2 750D 760D 800D 77D 200D Kiss 8000D X8i DSLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746KXJ26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dYe5Cb8BPTNP8
Elgato Cam Link 4K — Broadcast Live, Record via DSLR, Camcorder, or Action cam, 1080p60 or 4K at 30 fps, Compact HDMI Capture Device, USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3FN5MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cWe5Cb4MVKQYN
Bi-Color LED Video Light Stand Lighting Kit 2 Pack 15.4'' Large Panel 3000K-5800K 45W 4800LM Dimmable 1-100% Brightness Soft Light for YouTube Game Video Shooting Live Stream Photography Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KC7V9BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WYe5CbE440185
You can buy most of the above items on Ebay for cheaper if youre patient to wait on the shipping. I did and significantly cut down on the costs (WA-87 for 460 instead of 599 for an open box never used, 260 for a slightly used Yamaha MG12XU, etc)
I use 3 monitors, two 60hz 24” 1080p monitors plugged into my streaming PC. Then I use a 240hz 24” 1080p monitor (I recommend Dell or Asus) on my gaming PC. I use ONE mouse and keyboard to control both my gaming pc and streaming pc through the use of freeware called, “Input Director”
What I’ve linked for you is essentially my studio level setup except with faster PC’s. The 32 thread threadripper will shred through 1080p60fps encoding at medium/slow, BUT... depending on your urge I would wait until Ryzen 3 comes out and we can build a comparable/faster PC for the same or cheaper price.
Sure you could cut the streaming PC, trick out your gaming rig with a fewer higher end options that provide minimal performance increases, then drain your in-game performance significantly streaming on the same PC.
Good luck, the streaming setup above will set you apart from most of your peers but what I linked above is just the hardware, the artistic side I chose for the backdrop of my stream ran another 250-300 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/FIT-POWER-ACK-E18-Adapter-Charger-Coupler/dp/B0746KXJ26 You mean an AC power adapter?
I'd pick this up from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU
You can get barrel to bare lead adapters or cut the cord and make your own.
I actually had an old v-plate that I had lying around and repurposed for the rig. The SmallRig v-plate should work fine, but it's a dead plate. Has no d-tap of it's own, so would need batteries with dual d-taps or a splitter.
This one I've also heard is good, but can't vouch for it first hand. Wouldn't need the cable I provided earlier either as it's built in. Do something with dedicated d-taps to make switching batteries easier (no unplugging cables form battery)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1M23QN/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_V3NMDb2FYEKRQ
This is the shoulder wedge I have it attached to (both are vertical) in order to press into the front of my shoulder for controlled movement.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N4OZUPO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_q6NMDbRY0D66N
So, its not as cheap as a v-mount plate. But I'd suggest getting a HEDbox V-Mount adapter for the BMPCC4K. Its a fantastic plate, and I use it currently. It has a direct power connection to the Camera itself, which allows you to keep a Battery in the camera, in case there is any sort of drop out. Not overly expensive, and a good product. It has 3 d-tap ports, and a USB port along with the power cable, so it has a lot of options to use other peripherals.
HEDBox Unix BM - $125 + 15 s&h.
SmallRig Battery Plate- $36-ish
SmallRig 15mm Mounts - $15
And of course your V-Mount Battery of Choice.
Hopefully this helps!
Rumor has it, this will do the trick.
You could get something like this for power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A98R0QU/ref=psdc_2516700011_t2_B000KVPSNI
and use the HDMI out to an external video recorder (PC?). Heres nikons description: http://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/article/hojlp4ee/using-an-hdmi-recorder-and-external-monitor-with-your-hdslr.html
Edit: spelling mistake
SMALLRIG DV Battery Plate Adapter for BMPCC/BMCC/BMPC - 1765 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EFSUK98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DtFRCbXNV24KD
DSTE 2X Replacement Li-ion NP-F970 Battery for Sony DCM-M1 MVC-CD1000 HDR-FX1 DCR-VX2100E DSR-PD190P NEX-FS700RH HXR-NX3 Camera as NP-F930 NP-F950 NP-F960 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3P9YBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_auFRCbXZTK8MB
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372617342876
This setup is like $70 and it gives you 6 hours of power
I ended up going with this combo.
2 PowerExtra batteries
npf adapter (has 12v bm power + dc port for dummy battery)
2 Telesin LP-e6 batteries with charger + sd reader
anker multi usb charger (60w) to charge the Powerextra batteries and whatever else needed.
​
I also picked up the smallrig cage. ill pick up the tilta later one along with a matte box so i can start adding some 4x4 filters to the collection.
I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.
Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The GH5 has no recording limit other than your SD cards. You may save space recording in 1080p (or lower resolution) instead of 4k and maybe picking a compressed format (quality may suffer, you will have to try and see what works for you there). To be sure that the SD cards are formatted correctly, you can format the cards from the camera the first time you use them.
As far as I know it's not possible to charge the battery while it is inside the camera, but you could use an AC adapter instead (like this one) and use your camera for hours, as it would only require you to have it plugged in. That said, the battery in my camera lasts way more than an hour so you may not need any adapter.
There are NPF plates that output 12V. I'm using this one, but I recommend getting the tilta plate or any with a metal case. Using an NPF 970, I'm getting about 2h30m plus an extra 20-30 minutes with the internal LPE6 battery (I use this 20-30 minutes l window to swap in a new NPF battery)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EFSUK98/ref=psdcmw_13535461_t1_B01DLKW5LM
Thanks for the info(im kind of new to CB so I wanted to ask and see if this kinda of set up would work).Now that you mention dipoles,I was think about getting either the indoor firestik or this[ https://www.gigaparts.com/radiowavz-20dbz.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkMGgybus2QIVk7rACh38LQHWEAQYASABEgIgNfD_BwE ],lets say I get the dipole from the link,would I have to set it up with a mast(s) or could I kinda just run it around the perimiter of my house's roof(kinda hugging it)for ease of setup(it also looks pretty low profile so I kinda thought it was a good idea)
(also can i use this for plugging one of these handhelds to the wall? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00452YFZU/ref=asc_df_B00452YFZU5373047/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00452YFZU&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198056450525&hvpos=1o11&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7112004044057022446&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028207&hvtargid=pla-384041315683)
Hey... not too much to ask at all -
​
Here are the links to the battery mount and cable I am using. Here is the one similar on Amazon that has the correct cable attached but this is not the setup I have.
​
Here is the smallrig mount that is on the Crane 2 that my battery mount is attached to.
​
I have also mounted this SSD case directly on the crane 2 under the camera and it works perfectly since the ssd and crane move together so you can use a short USB-C cable.
​
Hopefully that helps. Good luck setting your up. I'm loving it!
Thanks for the details. Based off the model you gave, I found this. Reviewers say they're using it with the G7.
> Canon doesn't have an external brick that runs on it's own power?
You could get the AC adapter for your camera, which would power the WFT. OEM is $120, the third party is $20. I paid the toll and got the OEM, I'd rather not gamble with 120 volts in this situation.
12 volt, max 350mA. Could i wire them in parallel to a 12V 1A supply like this one ?
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU
Something like this will be what you need.
Input voltage will obviously be 120v you need the output to be 9-12vdc I believe is the working range of most LED strips. 12v most common. Output amperage for a 12" strip should not exceed 1A. As long as you cover those bases you should be good. If you get the stuff I'm more than happy to help build you a wiring diagram for a switch if you choose
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00452YFZU
Something like this, or basically anything that outputs 12V or 9V.
Fans use ~0.1-0.2 A each, and they can be connected in parallel, so a 12V 1A power supply can power 5-10 of those.
As I said, the issue is converting from that circular plug to something, from which you can convert to one of PC connectors, for which there are adapters and splitters. And doing it without accidentally shorting it.
I think I'll go for this one instead, since it's eligible for the $49 free shipping.
So itll look like this? Imgur
And would this power supply work?
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU
I'm doing that with Nikon d5500 using an external continuous power supply. I got something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Kapaxen-Adapter-Connector-Coolpix-Cameras/dp/B00A98R0QU I'm from Romania and we don't have Amazon, so I don't know if this will work for you but it should because it supports your model too. Do your own research, read the fake reviews, etc.
I don't use/have Elgato but if you still have the USB cable for your cam you can use SparkoCam for turning your DSLR into a webcam. It costs money if you want to remove the watermark or you could crop the video output around it in OBS.
Thanks to /r/Jim-Jones I found a great product I can use. It was a few amazon suggestions away.
Seco-Larm E-931-S35RRQ Enforcer Indoor/Outdoor Wall Mounted Photoelectric Beam Sensor with 35 Foot Range
and the timer!
Altronix Timer, Multifunction, 12/24VDC
and I can use a 12VDC power supply
[http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU](Amamax Wall Adapter Power Supply - 12VDC 1A)
Thank you everyone for guiding me. I think this will finally work! I'm excited I finally found the correct parts.
From quick look on the end from youtube I imagine a dc wall adapter like this one would work. However this is not a sure fire promise of it working as there are a couple different diameter of dc plugs around.
Borrow the money (~$150) and get This + This
Lasts atleast 3.5 hours, I had a shoot recently and used one battery all day (I have two).
If this is the one it is showing you then yes it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=pd_bxgy_63_2/144-2600896-3700832?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JL0YIY&pd_rd_r=c5b5ad91-4ead-4090-aef4-a162d9e8fc68&pd_rd_w=ebb8P&pd_rd_wg=zaIbj&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=N5HAVQ8S1Y00CRS3HBY6&psc=1&refRID=N5HAVQ8S1Y00CRS3HBY6#customerReviews
Also keep in mind you will need a USB 3.0 cable and HDMI Cable. I wouldn't go longer than 6 feet although I know some people have had luck with 10. Also a small bonus the Vive Link Box has Bluetooth in it. I have not validated that as I have the O+ and it has bluetooth built into the headset for the controllers. I have read other people have use the BT in the Link box fine however.
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Glorich-Replacement-Adapter-Cameras-Fully-Decoded/dp/B00VNJLBPK
Are we talking about something as simple as this: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU
Makes me wonder why they don't just include this power supply with the preamp instead of the stock one.
HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kD1JBb5FQR8HE
AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power Supply Adapter Switching for Cameras DVR NVR LED Light Strip DC3.5*1.35mm UL listed FCC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZD1JBbVM7W102
UGREEN USB 3.0 A to A Cable Type A Male to Male Cable Cord for Data Transfer Hard Drive Enclosures, Printers, Modems, Cameras (6FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0E394U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lE1JBbG15KXT3
And it still needs a hdmi cord. Note, the USB cord is a Male to male cord
one of these coulde be useful
You need a dummy battery and AC adapter to per it from the wall. I haven't used this one, so this isn't a recommendation, just an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG
You will need something similar for the G85 or GH4. One announce is, unlike a camcorder or proper ENG type camera the DSLR style cameras can only get per from one source at a time. I use a camcorder for event videography that's plugged into the wall and has a battery mounted, if somebody unplugs the power it'll switch to battery automatically. Not a deal killer, just be aware that you can't use a battery and be plugged in to the wall at the same time.
You need the battery wall AC adapter. They'res one on Amazon for $16
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083EQS3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9iJ5BbM0HPJ8K
Here is the Amazon link. $45. I'm linking this via my phone so hopefully it works. Runshuangyu Movie Blackmagic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMZRKWK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just searched Amazon for "Canon 80D power adapter" and found a few 3rd party options that I never tried before and unsure if they actually work. But something like this looks like a possible solution.
Either a PCI usb 3 card, or a vive link box would remedy this.
​
If you go the link box route, it comes w/o the AC adapter and HDMI cable, you'll need to pick both of those up as well, amazon has all three, it's like a 50.00 purchase all said.
​
This also gives the added benefits of
- extendable headset range.
- you can use DP (mini on the box) instead of HDMI if you so desire.
- if you have a laptop with a decent enough card, you can now use your rift on the go.
- USB port powered from the wall, no more load on the PC.
- it comes with a really good adhesive pad, so you can remotely locate your headset ports to say, under the front corner edge of your desk, or the side of your case, or any flat surface you think it'd be cool to have a relocated USB and HDMI port.
- the above pro also means you no longer have to leave the HMD plugged in at all times, you can just pop it out when not in use, and never have to dive behind a case again.
​
The ac adapter you will need is this one.
The USB cable can be anything as long as it is "A to A male to male". I picked one of these up. (two 6 foot cables, one for my LAN party bag, one for home.)
​
Any HDMI cable will work.
​
I believe the 200D uses a LP-E17 battery. Can't be sure since I don't have the camera in question. If so you would need a Canon E18 DC coupler and e6n AC adapter(like $100).
or the low cost Amazon version which goes for around $20
https://www.amazon.com/FIT-POWER-ACK-E18-Replacement-Adapter-Coupler/dp/B0746KXJ26
You will need this.....
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-Pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV
And this......
https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY
I would recommend you buy this and this.
I have a few big bench supplies, but like 95% of the time, you just need a few hundred milliamps at 3.3 or 5v or whatever. Save your capital funds for an oscilloscope.
Yeah, if you need a ton of power at 3.3/5/12v on the cheap, salvaging power supplies out of computers people leave out for the trash man is a good strategy. But most of the time, that's a bad idea.
2 cams is a must. Forget an fs7, that's overkill and it's going to eat your budget-- I would rent a gh5. It will match your g80 very well (use cine-d) and it has dual card slots.
Shoot 4k on both cameras, and occasionally punch in on them in post to effectively have 4+ POVs in 1080p.
Also, sound is going to be your biggest issue. Ideally, you can plug in a field recorder into the soundboard and get as clean a signal as possible, from the source.
If I were in your shoes, I would rent/buy:
gh5 (rental)-- $50-$100
Tascam dr-o5/Zoom h1 recorder (rental) -- $15-$30
Male/male 3.5mm jack (buy) -- $10
x4 128gb SD (buy) -- $200
x1 64gb micro-sd (for the audio, doesn't need to be fancy) -- $20-$30
x2 Panasonic Dummy batteries (buy) -- $50
x2 Tripods (borrow?)
X1 Lumix 42.5mm f1.7 (rental) -- $30-$50
With those things, you can make it work well.
What already does work - at least as a 6 foot extension that works is as follows:
Display Port:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1G74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB 3.0 Vive link booster (both HDMI (not Display Port ) and USB3)
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-Limited/dp/B07TRSMJJX/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Power supply
https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/136-9265774-0787045?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JL0YIY&pd_rd_r=eef03caa-f265-4a74-8cea-0c441fa02b2e&pd_rd_w=TYkgw&pd_rd_wg=76Kme&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=8493GBG52WE0QDVM7AS1&psc=1&refRID=8493GBG52WE0QDVM7AS1
6foot USB3 cable (male to male )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0E394U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Some other just USB booster could work and be simpler. I just used the Vive box when I had a Samsung Odyssey+ and then reused it for the Reverb.
Gotcha. Yeah, it really sounds like the AC adapter would be the way to go here. They’re only like twenty bucks and they really save you a lot on batteries - or at least saves you time switching the batteries. I use mine for product shots. I can leave the camera on all day and just snap a photo whoever I have the next product staged for the shot. Super handy.
Edit: this is the one I bought a couple years ago. I’ve never had an issue with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG
someone on youtube did a test the other day and it shut off after about an hour and a half.
for continuous power, you would need something like this, but for the new battery. this is for the old battery. also, the battery is one of the things that contributes to overheating, so I bet these power adapters wouldnt get the camera nearly as hot. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-ACPW20-AC-Adaptor-Black/dp/B003OBUJD0
Thanks for letting me and thanks for the update. I was able to find a 3.5mm on Amazon. It even has a review from a Vive owner who uses it for his breakout box, so that's great! It doesn't fit perfect, they said "This metal plug is ever so slightly longer than the OEM cable's, but the important thing is the width, so I don't care." So this is probably as close as we'll get, I'm not able to find anything better.
Leaving the link for others that run into this thread: https://smile.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY
Will this work? Can I just cut the end off and splice it onto the tables wires? How do I figure out which wire to splice to which? (Sorry these are probably idiot tier questions - I've never done this before and I saw you worked in a Sanyo shop)
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU
Also on the off chance this does need to take a/c power, will hooking up a d/c supply cook the motor?
Edit: As a matter of fact, I just took a look through the "old power adapters" box at work and found two. One is 120v ac to 12v ac - would that work or will the extra four volts cook the table? I also found a 120v ac to 12v DC adapter which I think is pretty much what you describing earlier. Pictures: http://imgur.com/sKkYGeB
Just look for a used ninja 2 there’s probably a ton out there since people are going to 4K. Or you could buy a new 4K capable ninja flame and just record in 1080.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/ATOMOS-NINJA-2-recorder-monitor-for-HDMI-cameras-DSLRs-with-2-SSDs-2-batts/112887030726?epid=1826234779&hash=item1a489763c6:g:ywoAAOSwoupatHFQ&_trkparms=gclientid%3DWa7RMFJvx7BwroDKZdq3s7dlc8EvZfxTEY0aMA5WX_AF_jcjZxgYLW7vdZi8R8qb&_trksid=p2489528.m4335.l8656
6300 should be fine
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1242001-REG/sony_alpha_a6300_mirrorless_digital.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1380867-REG/sony_fe_70_300mm_f_4_5_5_6_g.html
I think you’ll be about 3k all in
There may be a good 1080 camcorder option for you, I’m just not familiar with the zoom reach of one in your price range. This will give you all the reach you’d need I think.
Make sure you get
-mount to connect monitor
Neewer Black 1/4" Screw Mount Swivel Mini Ball Head Camera Mount with Lock and Hot Shoe Adapter for DSLR Camera,LED Video Light,Microphone,Video Monitor and Ring Flash Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LQGNK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-vCUAbCWRAV9F
Ssd
SanDisk Ultra II 480GB SATA III 2.5-Inch 7mm Height Solid State Drive (SSD) with Read Up To 550MB/s- SDSSDHII-480G-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8ABFX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fxCUAb2N5HK8R
Power
AC-PW20 AC Power Adapter Supply PW20 DC Coupler Gonine (NP-FW50 Battery Replacement) for SONY Alpha NEX-5 NEX-5A NEX-5C NEX-5CA NEX-5CD NEX-5H NEX-5K NEX-3 A6000 A6300 A6500 A3000 A5000 A7. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D67LTIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rzCUAbEGAQJF4
UCEC 11.81"/30cm Coiled Micro HDMI to Full Size HDMI Cable for Atomos for Ninja Star Recorder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BVLTVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cCCUAb66K4CH2
Can you use this or an equivalent non sony brand?
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-ACPW20-AC-Adaptor-Black/dp/B003OBUJD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501692368&sr=8-1&keywords=AC-PW20
With the newer sony cameras, you can power them with a USB power bank directly. I don't believe the a6000 allows this though.
What you can get is something like this https://www.amazon.com/Sony-ACPW20-AC-Adaptor-Black/dp/B003OBUJD0 which plugs in like a regular battery. This one is AC but I think you can find them running off a battery pack.
The components don't have to be that expensive.
With this configuration you're looking at ~$96 per seat, about half of your estimate.
When the Model A comes out the price will come down another $10. I'm sure even cheaper new components could be found and more savings could be had if used components were purchased or received as donations instead. It could be possible to get to the $50 level.
I do use the RX10 mk II. It will run off USB - but not entirely, it does still pull from the battery, just at a slower rate. But a battery adapter is far from "expensive". Here's a dummy battery + AC adapter for $20. http://amzn.to/2jES0WB AND here's a USB-to-battery adapter option http://amzn.to/2iPW1Uc so you can use any USB battery pack that supplies 2.4A. I just got one of these, ships from china, but it's kinda awesome.
The only things I don't like about the mkII for the youtube stuff I use it for is not having a flip around screen... and that the camera resets the zoom every time it is turned off and on. So you can't really frame something permanently.
Anyways, there's nothing wrong with the mkII, and I never saw any major benefits in the mkIII (for my purposes).
This is the one I bought, works perfect with my Link Box. Not sure if you can get it in Canada. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gonna be trying this with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083EQS3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Definitely seems like the way to go! thanks!
If a dummy battery is used would that be a safer option since the camera uses less voltage that way? Im thinking using this into the DC output from the Sony battery would work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFN9971/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2IF8D199BEFSR&psc=1 since the Sony DC output is 6-8.4V and the dummy battery works with 7-9 or would it be safer to mount the smallrig battery plate and stick with the AC input on the camera? Also which smallrig battery plate do you use?
I got one of these and it was a game changer for my BMPCC - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EFSUK98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
You could probably mount this on the gimbal handle and just run the cable to the camera, probably solve your problem in one go.
Just a quick update: I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798SGPD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it also works (hub 2.0)
Here's what I've got in my cart. If somebody could give a quick glance and tell me if I'm good to go. I'd greatly appreciate it:
Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1
Link box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1
Hdmi cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Usb cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSS9LEI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1
Interesting. I guess it's just acting as an HDMI/USB repeater. Hopefully someone with more experience can comment. It looks like this AC adapter can be used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY
I think they're priced relatively reasonably, with the exception of the Link Box. The base stations seem overpriced until you consider just how much R&D went into them. Consider further that Valve and HTC have promised support of third-party controllers and HMDs, and you're left with a scenario that the base stations are the only thing left that you have to buy from Valve, so it's fair to make a bit of profit on that.
The link boxes, however, aren't fairly priced. It's just a link box. It doesn't come with a male-to-male USB cable (something most folks don't have lying around), nor an HDMI cable (more common) or a power adapter (no one will have this!). You can't even buy it from HTC separately; you have to order one from Amazon. Considering that this and the other cables add $15-$20 more, and you have to source them separately, I think the link box is a bit of a rip-off.
I bought it anyway, of course, along with the cables and a pair of extra pair of base stations so that I can keep one set up at home and one in my studio. But it definitely sucked.
I know some people use a Sony battery plate that they'll attach to their top handle or something. (I've attached a Canadian link, I'm sure you'd find more on US eBay or Amazon. The search term I used was Sony NPF battery adapter BMPCC.)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01EFSUK98/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_504_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TRWJG3SS4Z3Y0WGB3M50&dpPl=1&dpID=61l6dmcnhQL
According to redit this will work
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798SGPD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
so I have one of these. and I just bought one of these. The camera doesnt last long on it's own batteries and I'm trying to power it to do a good 12 hour time lapse for a project I'm working on for a show. The anker battery should be able to run the Sony camera for that long but I'm trying to be good with my cable management and keep my connector cable length nice and shorter. I have Deans connectors for all my drone shit but I power some lights and other things off of my Anker batteries so I would rather standardize with that. Any ways... Also just want to make some DC cables as well and mod other things to work with the battery but I find that all the female connectors are flimsy and shitty but I did find a guy who had nickle plated female connectors and they where great.
Any ways thanks for the help
You have a 12V fan but a 5.5V power supply? This sounds like a problem to me. I'd recommend a 12V, 0.5A adapter - I use this one - with a 500 ohm potentiometer.
I usually have to turn the rheostat up about half way to get past the fan's stall speed, and then it runs very slowly, and ramps up smoothly to top speed as I turn the dial. At top speed the vortex is so strong the stir bar gets caught in it and jumps the field.
It also helps to use very strong magnets, spaced exactly as far apart as the ends of the stir bar. If your drive magnets are half an inch apart, don't bother with a 1 inch stir bar.
I am using a vive linkbox for both my Rift and O+ (and Explorer) and it works great. In fact the USB going into the linkbox is a daisy-chain of non-active 3.0 cables plugged into each other to make it long enough to reach the top of the shelf it's stuck to. You do need a power adapter but don't need to buy the $20 one amazon suggests. I use this one. I have noticed that I have to unplug the Rift sensors while using the Odyssey or I get constant connects/disconnects of USB devices (doesn't seem to be the O+ disconnecting as I don't get any glitching while playing, but it's annoying to hear).
I don't think so, but it depends on how often you intend to take photos. The link I sent you, I took a photo every thirty seconds for an hour. Battery life can be extended greatly by using the economy mode that turns the camera off after two seconds, I think it will turn back on for your next timed picture, but you'll have to test it. You'll have to use an external battery solution like this if the battery won't last for your entire time lapse.