(Part 2) Best car finishing products according to redditors

There is a product called Rust Mort that lays down like a primer. If the rust is just starting in small spots you could try to sand the rust out, apply Rust Mort, and touch up over it. Just a thought, but rust is a total pain in the butt to stop from spreading. Here's a link to the product we've used in the past.

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mort-Quart/dp/B000HI690U

rain proof film: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JM84Y9Z/)


larger size for windows: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZN6WNJ/)

As others have recommended before, cut protection film to protect the right hand side or (more work) the whole surface. Or pick up any of many 3rd party inserts to overlay and then change out with your whim.

Well, I wasn't thinking just straight WD-40. I was thinking something more like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAWN07W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_AGqPDb54EP184

Here's a simpler solution https://www.amazon.com/3M-08582-Door-Edge-Protection/dp/B00650NY6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537293631&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+door+edge

It took me a long time to finally figure out what the advocates for fluid film were talking about, but finally coated my truck this Fall. Definitely worth the $44 for a gallon.

Corroseal works well too.

Hmm this is a tough one to try to jury-rig because of the damage to the handle and how far you are from the shop.

If you were my insured I might tell you to email a bunch of pictures to the shop. They might actually have another door shell lying around that they took off another Model 3 that might be bad but might work as a temporary substitute until your parts are in. It's possible also that they might be able to drop in a replacement glass into your damaged door, though that would depend on whether the regulator is damaged and whether they can get the door to open and close with the handle in that condition without having to cut it out.

In the meanwhile you can get some crash wrap from a local body shop or an auto parts store (though a whole roll is like $60-$70) which will at least let you drive it around at highway speeds and will keep the rain out. It should even work to seal-up the headlamp if it's still working.

In the meanwhile, after the insurer/shop has had their look at it, get some cheap paint and do this, or put one of these giant band-aids on it. Though if it was me I'd get a one-inch wide brush and some white paint and write "Tesla:1 Deer:0" on the door.

I cleaned up and repainted my YBR's exhaust a few months ago.

I took the entire exhaust off, and then used a drill with a wire brush attachment to take off as much surface rust as possible.

I then left it for a day in a rust remover solution to get rid of the finer aspects and leave me with a smoother surface.

Crack out some sandpaper, smooth the surface of the exhaust down to try and get an even finish.

Then use some VHT Paint to cover it over again.

Rathe simple but very satisfying, makes a huge difference to the bike's aesthetics.

Food Grade 85% .. insanely strong when not diluted.. you can dilute 5 to 1 water to acid or 10:1 water to acid easily. I have put rusty bolts in the undiluted and they come out like they were sandblasted in about an hour.. the threads all cleaned out like new.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06XZSW3QX

or you can buy a quart of rustmort which i always use to use as an autobody tech .. its great .. I would say its probably a 10:1 dilution

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mort-Quart/dp/B000HI690U/

this is why I will never drink cola drinks again

https://jillcataldo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/cokeingredients.jpg

I got a link for some cheaper cosmoline if you're interested.

I found it after I purchased some of this stuff which is also really good-- more like fluid film, though.

I'll use the cosmoline next time and compare the two.

Hi, I went with a different brand but same concept. I got this. I like that one of the reviews said it was easy to remove, which might not be great as a car hood bra but I won’t be driving the PS down the interstate anytime soon. I tested two strips on my regular PS4 and went on nicely, let it sit for 2 days and took it off pretty easily. I’ll update with pics later tonight or tomorrow morning, I think it turned out awesome. There is a little bit of tacky adhesive, but no enough to have left any residue after I removed the test strip.

If you need tips let me know.

Edit: forgot to mention.

There is about 1/2” on either side excess material, regardless of what direction you install, and of course more than enough the other direction since it’s a 5’ roll.

Pics

You can actually buy rolls of clear 3m vinyl wrap on amazon in varying widths for way cheaper than these kits. I bought a roll of the .5" and 2" to put on a couple of my bikes to protect them from cable rub as well as just general nicks and scratches. Obviously not as thorough or custom fit as a kit like this, but it definitely helps. It's fairly stretchy so it conforms to frame contours pretty well, and after a few months of riding I haven't had any issues with peeling.

Yes, get a kit from Amazon (KINGLAKE Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool 4Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) or wrap a flat head screw driver with electrical tape. Start from the front clip on the left and work you way towards the back. The right side also has a front clip near the windshield and you have to work your way from back to front.

Also- get 3M clear auto tape to put under the mount feet(3M Clear Scotchgard Paint Protector Vinyl Wrap .5" Wide Tape Roll (.5" x 48") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KF647X?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) to prevent scratching the paint.

I want to say I used a 3/8”bit to drill through the roof gutters. Bought new bits so they were very sharp.

My only concern is whether small bits of sand will eventually work in between the flaps and the paint on the side of the car and cause really bad scratching. Might need to protect the paint underneath using some sort of protection spray or something. Maybe put something like this underneath it.

Took my car on one big road trip (by big I mean more than 7 hours each way of just driving) and got a rock chip :(


Ironically it was on the driver side door and not anywhere I was expecting a rock chip-was expecting a bunch of hood or front bumper chips but no, the damned driver side door got a chip somehow. Still need to go get the touchup kit.

(http://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ)
Stuff works great, used with a scotchbrite pad on a random orbit sander, made the saw look brand new.

You could fill them in with paint chip paint, it wont look the best but they won't be as noticeable and buy something like this to minimize the chance of it spreading/ happening again https://www.amazon.com/3M-08582-Door-Edge-Protection/dp/B00650NY6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485937464&sr=8-1&keywords=car+door+edge+guards+clear .

Dowels and chopsticks with sandpaper wrapped around them, and a Dremel with a variety of stones. It's gonna be a labor of love.

Proluxe is good, but it's really just a deck stain. And the semitransparent is a water based acrylic... you're not gonna like the finish it gives you on that beautiful old hardwood. It'll look like plastic. I'd personally go with an Old Masters penetrating stain (you can go with a wiping stain if you wanna tone down the grain a little... wiping stain will give you a little more of the semitransparent look) followed by a spar finish (3 coats, applied with sponge brushes, light sand with 220 between coats - juuuuust kiss it with the sandpaper). It'll give the door a richer and longer lasting finish than a simple coat of deck stain, and the spar is UV protectant.

I'd use Evaporust or Metal Rescue on any of the ironwork that can be removed and allowed to soak (with both products, you strain the soak and pour it back into the jug - it's reusable several times). After the rust removal soak, clean with acetone and use a self-etching primer. For anything you can't remove and soak, use Rust Reformer after wire brushing instead of a simple primer for tough surfaces - it converts surface rust to magnetite to stabilize it. Then proceed with your black color coat. After the black, spray with a couple coats of satin clear. All the paints I linked are available at any auto parts store and Walmart, and I believe Home Depot carries Metal Rescue.

That's a gorgeous door. Take pictures and post a project gallery!

Edit: added that Proluxe semitransparent is water based.

same here, my 03 is my winter daily. I gave it a copious underbody spray with this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-nas1-Gallon/dp/B004NDDCKK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485021178&sr=8-4&keywords=fluid+film

in the fall, all around the wheel arches and the running boards and everywhere that wasnt the brakes, exhaust piping, or engine.

and it has some blizzak WS60s on it, which make it EXTREMELY stable on snow and ice but you can still just leave it in first and do donuts in parking lots or drift around corners.

If you are lazy and don't want to harm or scuff the surrounding paint, Hammerite make this gel and it's pretty tame. I've never had it react with paint but always best to check first.
Then put a layer of wax or acf50 over it because it'll flash rust if you don't. Needs a couple of applications and a soft bristle brush to do its magic though.

I used http://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top after I had a flash rust on the entire top if my saw when I had to drop it in storage while waiting to close on my house. It worked great for me.

Look into POR-15 products. You'll want more than just the paint. To really repair it you'll want the surface cleaner, surface prep, and then the paint. Here's an example kit.

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https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40909-Gloss-Black-Stop/dp/B077J66P27/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=por+15+kit&qid=1574267537&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMUtVMENUREdSUUlJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjE1NDQwMllKMkxBODdOMVlYSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTM0NDU3MzBRUFQzV1RISVNJUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

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This kit only covers a small area. You'll need quite a bit more to do large areas of a car. Do some research on it though. It's great stuff.

If it really bothers you tape around the area and hit it with this:

Steel-It Polyurethane 14oz Spray Can (1 can, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L8PD2YX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Yx0DbM9PBVTE

It’s basically spray on powder coat. We use it to seal after rust repairs under trucks

They'll be back. I ordered new straps, and have the toe catches sitting in a Metal Rescue bath. Once the straps are in they're back on the bike.

No, no, no. You do not need to sand the heck out of it like that. What a mess. All you need to do is wipe or brush on some naval jelly and wait literally 10 minutes (no longer) then wipe off. It's the best way to remove rust while maintaining as much metal as possible. Loctite makes some that you can pick up at Home Depot but I prefer Permatex which you can get on Amazon (if not locally in your area).

Naval jelly all the way, especially if you're lazy and don't like scrubbing. The stuff's amazing. Although for really heavy rust you should knock off the loose stuff first or you'll just be wasting the stuff.