(Part 2) Best chrome & metal polishes according to redditors

I used Autosol metal polish and about 3 brillo pads. It took me about 2 hours with breaks to clean. It was well worth my time.

http://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM

If you can find it, liquid glass. It’s an old school hot rodder’s secret, and the company has all but disappeared. I’m convinced it’s a primitive ceramic coating. It lasts for YEARS, goes on like wax, produces an excellent shine, and is hard as a rock. The paint feels exactly like the name describes: like glass.

I liquid glassed my fiancée’s car back when we were dating. This was probably 3-4 years ago. The fucker gets washed 4-5 times per year max, and never a real deep clean or clay or anything. The damn thing is swirled to hell and back, and still beads water like a duck’s back. It’s mocks me perpetually as I struggle to maintain my perfect paint and coatings on my two cars, because I can’t find another can of it.

Find liquid glass. Go look at the auto parts store with dust on the shelves that’s barely hanging on and buy their entire stock. You’ll make their day and you’ll have enough liquid glass for the rest of your life.

Edit: OP I just searched amazon again for it and didn’t find liquid glass, but I found this. People are saying it’s exactly the same, even that one of the partners took the formula and started this company when the original guy went to jail.


Despite what it says it’s not a polish it’s a sealant. I ordered some, same day shipping for me. I’ll try it out later and let you know if it’s similar or the same. Liquid glass had a distinct smell too it, an old school chemical menthol turpentine smell. Ill know it by smell.

Liqui Tech Finish First Auto Polish (16 oz.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AX9E3OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YMuvDb0S6Q03Q


Edit 2: this is what the can looked like via a few recent ebay sales. And as you can see, it was THAT good. These used to sell for around $25 in stores.

https://imgur.com/a/guiS4LC

Borla Exhaust Polish and Fine Bronze Wool did the trick.

I originally tried going at it with some simple green. It was actually a couple days before I took the picture so you can see how much it left on there.

This man speaks truth; give it a try.

Once the rust has gone, you will want to put a treatment on top of it to stop it coming back. Whilst tin foil and water will remove the rust, it will not protect the (now damaged) metalwork from getting rusty again. Several routes to go down here; for chromed metal (think suspension forks or chromed mirrors) you can get Autosol. This works a bit like a toothpaste that is buffed in and does protect for a little while. You can then use a lot of ACF50 and work it into the area good and proper, leaving it to dry naturally if on non-engine parts (or go for a ride around the block and bake that stuff on if on the engine).

In my experience, a combination of Autosol and ACF50 works wonders. Basically you want to remove the rust (tin foil), neutralise it as much as you can (Autosol) and then seal it (ACF50) from moisture to stop it coming out again.

Chrome pipes tend to turn blue; this is caused by too rich fuel mixture. Your pipes do not appear to have heat shields; the pipes you're seeing on other bikes have shields over them and are likely EFI, so fuel mixtures are better controlled.

If Blue-ing bothers you much, in one afternoon you can polish it off with Blue Job.

Prussian blue is used to check your mating surface to make sure you have even contact all the way around. Bench grinding is done to remove any carbon build up from the face and stem of the valves, when rebuilding with used parts is, the cleaner the better. I’ll find a video I saw a long time ago of a forum members diy of his hg replacement that I agree with and it’s all relatively easy and cheap/free just takes time.

there is a product called blue off, it will take it off the pipes.
https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Exhaust-Polish-Removes-Bluing/dp/B00FNP3YBE

Simichrome is great stuff, and is good for cleaning paint too. I use it so much I finally decided to buy it by the can.

I’ve used Flitz for surface rust and it worked great and knife was like new.
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Fiberglass-Polish-1-76-Ounce-Blister/dp/B079PPQD9L

3M 09020 Marine Aluminum Restorer & Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RZPNNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rcfSBb0H6BN35

Then spray on some Pig Spit to make it look good.

If none of the other suggestions here work, this probably will:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006BFR2O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M105 and M205 are for paint. If your chrome wheels have a clear coat over them, then you can use these products. If your wheels are bare metal, then you need a special metal polish. I like Chemical Guys Heavy Metal Polish. http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_402_16-Vintage-Series/dp/B00FALVXEQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395365153&sr=8-1&keywords=heavy+metal+polish

I am a construction worker and have scratched, sweated, dirt all of over the watch. Every week or other week I used these wipes on the watch ...

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz, 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0763VNS5J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YlP0BbXB55B2P

Buffs out and shines the watch like new. Stainless doesn’t stain, hence the name, only scratch

Use this, mirror like finish. Its great , easy to use, and you cant mess it up.

Chemical guys is decent, I have heard great things about Angelwax however never tried because of the expansive shipping. There are a couple of products you can try. I wouldn’t adventure to recommend something I haven’t use but Adams Polishes is a good brand and sells this detailer Adams Matte Detailer and they sell it by the gallon too. There is good info here. How to care Matte paint finish . Good luck!

And the slowest headers bro. Clean that shit up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FALW138/?coliid=I1FBIE3KEW8OTD&colid=26A2VKMS05UI6&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXS0Q/?coliid=I26C4NAR8J4W9N&colid=26A2VKMS05UI6&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

You want wet/dry sandpaper - when you use it you do so with a little water.

HD Heavy Cut Compound is a compound product - http://www.amazon.com/High-Definition-Car-Care-430OZ16/dp/B00CS8DYTG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417662932&sr=8-2&keywords=hd+heavy+cut+compound

M205 is a polishing product produced by Meguiars - it can be found on Amazon and many other online stores.

For the compound and polishing compound he used an orange lake country pad on a random DA machine - something you can also find on amazon. But if you're only doing head lights you can get away with a hand held pad such as: http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_201-Hex-Logic-Applicator/dp/B00BUFWL0Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417663041&sr=8-2&keywords=hex+logic+orange

This process will work on tail lights - however, you must be sure to go slowly as tail lights are not as strong as head lights. Basically just check often while compounding to ensure that you don't do any more than necessary.

When you do this either make sure to tape around the tail light to avoid any accidentally contact with the paint OR take the tail light off of the car - which I would recommend as it makes things a lot easier.

Just a standard microfibre round pad and this amazing polish Autoglym Super Resin Polish, 1L https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009LHHHZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C.H3AbT40P4QN

i've had good luck with this

https://www.amazon.com/California-Custom-Products-Purple-deoxidizer/dp/B005WWMP86

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Polish-Simichrome-Grams-8-82/dp/B004F5BDIO/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1495713873&sr=8-33&keywords=brass+polish

I like this stuff but I have ever only used it on brass.

I've used Borla Exhaust Cleaner and a Drill Polishing Tool

I'll admit I only did a small section several years ago but it took no more than 30 seconds. I've found hand polishing takes plenty of time and several passes to bring back the luster.

No, I think the mineral spirits helps remove the wax a little and the wax is blackened. Getting the wax off is hard--there are specific wax remover products you might try to remove it more completely.

Perhaps more exciting, I remembered that there are specialty aluminum cleaners. Maybe try one of them.

http://www.biokleen.com/aluminum-cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Corp-1415346-Aluminum-Jelly/dp/B004WAENYS/

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Aluminum-Restorer-Polish/dp/B000RZPNNW/

Get some Prussian blue or anti seize and put a dollop under the handle of their toolbox. A little dab’ll do you because it spreads like wildfire.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80038-Prussian-Fitting-Compound/dp/B000HBM86Q

I have had pretty good luck with Blue-Job, works on blueing and burnt on garbage. Dont bother using it by hand, get a 1/4 sheet sander and put the cloth right in there.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Job-bluejob-Chrome-Polish-Kit/dp/B0006BFR2O

What do you think of this product? It seems to work really well when I did my dads headlights on his '98 Civic hatch. It started to fog up a bit and when i rubbed some of this into the headlight, it looked like brand new again. I think I may even rub some into my mom's '12 Forester as preventative maintenance.

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002U268M