(Part 2) Best computer fan grills according to redditors

Hey thanks!!! And absolutely I'd love to share more images. I'm not a photographer by any means so bear with the cell phone quality and the poor composition: http://imgur.com/a/eZYPx

And as for the filters, I got them off amazon by just looking up 92mm dust filters, but here's a link (I apologize in advance to the mods if linking products is a no-no): http://www.amazon.com/92mm-Aluminum-Mesh-Filter-Grill/dp/B00CK07EG6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

you should try a aluminum filter for where the fan was,
some like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Filter-Grills-Mounting-Screws/dp/B006NYHP82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347987337&sr=8-1&keywords=aluminum+fan+filter

I actually use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MLIKCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_v2bbCbYFND9KF

They're computer fan covers, but they're strong, heat resistant, and with close enough gaps to prevent many (not all) animals from getting out. For really small species, you can use aluminum window screen mesh behind them.

Could throw some of these on there since they're exposed blades. The wire ones don't add too much noise.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H0P7OC4/ref=psdc_11036301_t2_B005VRK5YS?th=1

Option 2 seems best. If you're really that concerned about dust, you can get a dust cover set like this that will magnetically snap on over any desired vent and protect against dust

I Googled the following:

120mm mesh fan grill

120mm wire fan grill chrome

Comes in black or chrome depending on what aesthetic you're aiming for; adjust search terms based on your fan size.

>So I'll definitely use an air cooler

Yes, all cooling is air cooling eventuality.

> I don't plan on doing any overclocking tho, not even sure how to

With Ryzen Master, you can boot your system at the default CPU and default integrated GPU settings. You only need to enable the memory extended profile in the BIOS. That is not overclocking, it is just specification-clocking (otherwise your memory is run slower then its rating).

When you launch a game, you often close your main programs. Then you launch managers/stores (Steam), chat (Discord, Mumble), and then your game. Just add Ryzen Master to that routine. You are not overclocking unless you are gaming, you are always a reboot away from your guaranteed minimum

I must recommend 36 FPS over 30 FPS, and Ryzen Master is a rather safe option

LTT: Adventures in Overclocking Ryzen 2200g - Lots of detail.

Remember: Plug in all your modular cables when you are done building, as you do not want to lose them in all the moving you will do. Use a wire fan grill to keep the extra wires out of the fan.

Do not be Greg Salazar he used the wrong modular PSU wires. The NZXT Hue+ Did NOT Kill My PCs (Public Apology)

See Gamers Nexus: PSA: Stop Mixing Modular PSU Cables

Should be fine. You can buy and mount one of these if it makes you feel any better. Cables typically don't just sag even after a long time - they rather become more rigid as they train onto whatever position they are in

Dope! I can't find the exact one anymore, but I used a white PC dust cover for the goggle lenses, which also gave the lenses a 'webbed' look, then painted the inner side black to help with visibility. Here's a link to a black one https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Black-Dustproof-Filter-140mm/dp/B013JG1BCW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=white+pc+dust+fan+mesh&qid=1569644246&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Your link to Amazon made me think of looking for PC specific dust filters. I am surprised that is a market, I always used the ones that came with the case. These for example are interesting:

https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Filter-Grills-Screws-Aluminum/dp/B07FYY6641

They have cheaper filters of course, without the support. Looks like I'm going to have to order something.

I would consider at least sheetrocking the inside of the comms closet (no need for mud and painting). Exposed insulation will generate a lot of dust from air movement and vibration in the house. Your equipment and your family don't need it. Second, exposed studs will transmit some noise. A cheap way to improve the sound isolation is to build a double stud rock wool wall, basically 2x4s on a 2x6 sill. Let the interior sheet rock absorb the sound.

400 watts of heat in a 35 sq ft room is a lot (imagine 4 people spending several hours in that room, in summer). You're definitely going to need ventilation if you don't want equipment fans to ramp up, especially being in a well insulated room. I would suggest playing around with your layout so you can have the closet ventilate into the unfinished area without ducts, which restrict flow.

You probably want to run cable conduit where you have a finished ceiling, so locating the panel near the unfinished area may cut down on that expense.

The electrical panel will also require a minimum 3 ft in front, 30 inches wide to meet electrical code. With the rack in place, the 5 ft of that room probably isn't enough.

In your diagram, you haven't made it easy to access the back of the rack. If you're working on the rack, you will soon appreciate having 30 inches of space behind it. You would probably also enjoy a workbench big enough to hold a rack mount server, in front of the rack. You could build storage above and below the workbench. A wall mounted screen would be nice.

If it were me, I'd extend the closet all the way to the brown bench(?) and drop the reading nook. Put a low and a high vent by the laundry equipment side for ventilation. Maybe instead of the top vent, get a dual fan with thermostat. I'd put the rack against the exterior wall, with the back of the rack close to the electrical panel, so you can use the access space twice. I'd put a work bench on the outside wall where the chair is (leaving enough space to install a server in the rack). I would leave the patch panel where it is or mount it between the electrical panel and the back of the rack, and run a cable tray overhead from the patch panel out to the unfinished basement. You could easily drop cables for the rack, etc. I'd have the door to the room open into the office, opposite the work bench.

If you put the 18' wall closer to the orange thing, the extra space would let you make a W arrangement for desks instead of a J. This will be very useful if you ever have someone working with you, or maybe two people playing games. Instead of the top part of the J, you could have the reading nook there. If the storage closet is all shelves of computer stuff, I'd move the space to the comm closet and save a wall and door. If it's other things, I'd open it to the unfinished area instead.

From personal experience, I'd avoid square inside corners on the desks. Definitely spend the time/money on circular shapes on the inside corners as it will make it possible to arrange a keyboard and mouse at any angle. You probably want about a 20" radius.

Just my thoughts. You have a fun project ahead!

That's a fan guard/grill that you normally see on computers or other electronic appliances on the right. Dunno what the left is

This manipulation will make your laptop a bit more bumpy chassis-wise and I won't take any responsibility if something goes wrong :P (Don’t forget to think about the warranty)

I am a lurker but I can really understand your feelings since I was in the same situation (same laptop) before however, I was able to fix this, let me explain How to avoid TDP-downs:

After dealing with multiple slim laptops and also thanks Reddit for some data, I have concluded that these are the main types of throttling linked with the thermals:

• CPU throttling (duh), however my laptop goes to 10W whereas the CPU was only around at the early eighties °C at 15W, and the laptop itself has another more powerful fan state at this temperature, so I think it is supposed to handle that CPU heat (these fans suck tbh).
  My laptop was not thermal throttling but power limiting (except at TDP-high but that’s not the issue) so I skipped it.
  
  
• software throttling, setting at High performance plan and removing + disabling the reinstallation of the Intel Dynamic Platform & Thermal Framework Driver should be enough (no, it won’t wreck your PC, but staying at High Performance will make your laptop uncomfortable because of the heat).
  
  
• VRM throttling, now this one is a little bit more implicit, but it is also very important, I am not an electronic expert and feel free to correct me, but I think that when it overheats, the component won’t be able to deliver as much power to the CPU thus the TDP-down. (Did Intel specified a TDP-down for mobile processors because slim laptops have generally a hard time cooling the CPU and VRMs at the same time?)
  
  To begin the fix you will need to buy these thermal pads (personally I bought two):
  https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Minus-High-Performance/dp/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667081&sr=8-1&keywords=TG-MP8-120-20-10-1R
  
  So, I have sacrificed my laptop to check it, and after removing the black foil there are indeed some VRMs that are not under the heat sink. I have a very empirical way to find them (I don’t have a thermal camera unfortunately).
  Launch TS Bench from ThrottleStop and then on the back of the computer, near the CPU, try to find very hot components (the ones that are barely too hot to touch) then place 3-4 thermal pads on them so that it can reach the chassis of the laptop.
  
  Of course this is not enough, and that’s where the cooler joins in, I found two coolers that are really useful:
  
  
• a cross-flow fan:
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3971YK/ref=twister_B01F3971X6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  https://i.imgur.com/8IpUd4b.jpg
  
  The cross-flow fan is easier and cheaper to use however it is not as efficient as the next one, the laptop will be able to, at long term and at least, use 14W at 24°C ambient temperature. However, I would still buy it for travels etc.
  
  
• a DIY powerful fan stand:
  
  This one is not hard to do but requires some money but I suppose that budget won’t be your issue since the laptop itself is quite expensive already.
  
  For this you will need:
  
  
• a 3-pin 12V fan with good air pressure:
  https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-2000-140x140x25mm-2000rpm/dp/B00KESSI2A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667148&sr=1-1&keywords=B00KESSI2A
  
  
• fan grills:
  https://www.amazon.com/140mm-Black-Grill-Guard-screws/dp/B01M2YI7BM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667587&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+grill+140mm
  
  
• 5V to 12V USB to 3-pin:
  https://www.amazon.com/FAN2USB-12V-USB-Converting-Adapter/dp/B00MNB40ZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667190&sr=8-1&keywords=FAN2USB
  
  
• a stand with hole:
  https://www.amazon.com/Urbo-Adjustable-Heat-Vent-Elevate-Notebooks/dp/B01I0KN91I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667370&sr=8-2&keywords=urbo+stand
  
  The hole is where we are going to place the fan and the height will help the fan to get more air, so that is very important.
  
  
• a cable tie set to attach the fan on the stand:
  https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Nylon-Resistant-Cable-White/dp/B00UJ95URU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667534&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Tie+Set+400
  
  Optionally you can also buy a voltage regulator to turn it off but yeah unplugging the USB do the work too haha:
  https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667258&sr=1-1&keywords=FANMATE2
  
  After it is done and placed your laptop on it, you should be able to play all night without seeing the laptop throttling.
  
  I tried to exceed the 15W, but this step is probably impossible, with the cooling I was able to stay a few more seconds at almost 30W but even after dealing with max TDP via Throttlestop, it throttles down. I just think that HP has limited its device to 15W for long term state (no matter the thermals or power) which is quite understandable but still it would be nice to unlock it.
  I have for instance set the TDP max at 16W with ThrottleStop (so just a little bit more) and it still throttles after around 30 seconds to 15W with the cooler, I don’t know if I will give up but with -100mV undervolting I am able to reach STABLE 2.8ghz at full load, at 15W, so it is not that bad for a convertible 13-inch laptop.
  
  I would like to post more photos however I am on a trip for months, so I can't right now.
  
  Feel free to ask me any questions!
  
  EDIT: formatting because 1st post
  
  EDIT 2:
  
  Here is how I placed my thermal pads:
  https://i.imgur.com/0fHQTIl.jpg
  
  I have also stressed my laptop for almost 15min non-stop with my cross-flow fan, here are the results showing a stable performance:
  
  
• Start:
  https://i.imgur.com/h9Tq2fU.png
  
  
• End:
  https://i.imgur.com/j5P8osg.png

They do serve better as case fans but if you get 1400RPM model it does have enough static pressure for radiator applications. Of course, like all fans the max airflow and pressure is only available in the higher end RPM.

https://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-eLoop-1400RPM-104-93CFM-28-5dBA/dp/B0149MBB16

They can get a bit loud in the high end, the Cougar Vortex's are better in that regard and also perform slightly better. I accidentally linked you the 120mm version earlier, here is the proper 140mm version. They also come in orange but I figured you wouldn't like that.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006

If you want to go cheaper you can buy something along the lines of http://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-Grill-Protector-Metal-Finger-Silver/dp/B00HPK8AHS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1458294359&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+fan+grill&tag=linustechtips-21 and use zip ties/bodge it slightly!

Find some of these in the right size for your fans that draw air in. Usually they go inside the case for looks, but can be installed on the outside just as easily. They will trap most of the dust and pretty much all hair/fur that would get in the system. Then you just wipe them off every so often. http://www.amazon.com/120mm-Black-Steel-Computer-Filter/dp/B00DBW8QZ0

Hmm a quick/temporary fix could be something as simple as cutting out a black piece of construction paper and taping inside your pc case, until you can find something more permanent. That way it would block the LED light from leaking out, prevent dust from falling in, and increase the suction power of the rear exhaust fan to move more air from inside your case to the outside.

Ive never seen those fan covers before, but i have seen dust filters that remind me of those, like this http://www.amazon.com/APEVIA-120mm-Black-Fan-Filter/dp/B00BBJTT3I/ref=zg_bs_11036301_33

Though they are just filters so light would still leak through, though maybe not as much.

If it is something like this keep it on.

Always do 2 intake 1 exhaust ratio. See if you can grab up some filters on ebay or here on the cheap too for the intake. Saves on having to dive in and clean up the processor/GPU sink.

$7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006X1RJZY