Best diesel additives according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22284-Protection-Treatment-Stabilizer/dp/B00HEZFZEK

Buy your old man some of this, and insist it be added to every tank of gas. At the very least, it must be added every time the car is parked. If you buy it yourself, at least you get over old miser hump. Its not some new "Fancy shit" either. Sta-bil is what the car collectors use to protect their $1 million Ferraris. If the guy thinks you are full of shit, call 5 mechanics with him listening on speaker phone.

Though the best approach with stubborn people is to lead them into thinking its his idea to use it. You know, leave some ads out where he can find them, use some in your car and say how much better its running...whatever can lead him on. I mean the classic example of leading people is...if you want your friend to get you both a beer from your fridge, start talking about how awesome beer is, and how you just got some last night to drink...

And yes your old man is partly right, better a tank of spoiled gas than a rusted out tank because condensation and the fact residue would dry up and varnish everything, but that was before we started running cars on what is effectively bourbon. Now the bad gas issue is even worse. Which is double why he should be using ethanol remover and stabilizer with every fill up on a classic.

Sta-bil, while perhaps not cheap, should keep the car alive.

> never owned a diesel before

Once you experience the torque of a diesel, it's hard to go back to a gasser. My first diesel was an LB7. I bought it with 200,000 miles and sold it when it dropped an injector at 300,000 miles. Loved the truck and power. Injectors and head gasket are what to watch for on the LB7. Use a good fuel treatment and watch your coolant reservoir for a dark ring indicating head gasket issue. If you're really committed to the truck, add a Fass Fuel System.

Use this and drive the car hard on the way to inspection.

I can't say for sure if it will work for you, But this stuff will make a car with a dead cat pass in my state.

Always get the scheduled maintenance done that is recommended in the owner’s booklet. Typically, I’ll get my oil change done at the same time because it’s usually every 8,000km/5000 miles. Make sure the mechanic uses 100% synthetic, and not some 50/50 cheap alternative.

For that salt buildup, Krown protectant is worth it. Get that applied at least every second year. In Canada it’s about $130, so in the US it’s probably $75-90. If you’re doing Krown and planning to regularly get a car wash, DO NOT go for the carwash that sprays the underside of the car. This can rinse off the Krown protectant over time.

Since you’re at the 62K mile mark, you can start using Lukas oil stabilizer and Lukas injector cleaner . You wouldn’t need it if you’re under 50k miles, but once the engine gets older it starts to burn oil less efficiently;it’s normal. My mechanic swears by this stuff- and no he doesn’t sell it, he tells me to grab it at the local hardware/automotive supply store, so I know he’s honest.

Winter

Rest of the year

Oil

Filter

I used to use Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubricant for about a year. Seemed to make the idle better. Been without it for about 6 years now though, and I haven't noticed a difference besides the idle.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Service-03080-06-Cetane-Additive/dp/B001JT1FJ6/

Would work. And I am sure we can find plenty of Diesel mechanics that would tell me it is a waste. But what I have heard from the VW engineers is the Diesel we have here in the US does not have enough lubrication compared to Euro diesel. And the lower lubrication that our Diesel here has is what is causing many failures of the fuel system on those vehicles.

And $25 for 250 gallons of Diesel... Again, pretty cheap insurance.

Why would you change the tank? Is it leaking? Do you suspect algae bloom?

If you’re unsure of the state of the oil and tank, you can shock it.

I use this series:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IUP9LC/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT3GXO/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT1FJ6/

Someone I trust said to use Liqui Moly Jectron after I had problems with sparkplugs and coils getting build up. I'm under warranty so the dealership replaced them but he said to use the Jectron to keep it from happening again.

Sweet! Ordered this and comments say it should solve the problem.

Do you have an air pump?

Also, SeaFoam is great for what it is (a detergent, for cleaning junk out of the fuel system) but you might want to try something like this:
link

Is it legal to dump those bottles of "guaranteed to pass" additives into gas tanks before a smog test?

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8

I'm not saying there should be no standards. But the US automotive standards are extremely restrictive when compared to international standards. The US standards are even necessarily "better", just "different".

Here's a rundown on the situation:
http://jalopnik.com/a-simple-explanation-why-america-doesnt-get-european-h-1493377285

No, you won’t need new cats. I had the same problem with my ‘89 and my dad and I found this wonderful product that is literally called- Pass Emissions Test. You just pour the stuff into the tank when it’s half empty, use the rest of the tank, fill it back up, and then you should pass with flying colors!

Pass Emissions

The cost of the equipment used for this job is expensive...that's why the shop is expensive (you're basically paying for their equipment or it's been already paid off. Since you don't have $$, I'll recommend 2 steps (It'll make you be a parts-swapper, but cheaper than a full diagnosis). Most of the time, the common bad parts are the gas cap (I doubt it) or the evap purge valve: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-503-Evaporative-Emissions-Canister/dp/B002E39YBW/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Infiniti%7C68&Model=G35%7C885&Year=2007%7C2007&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Just replace the purge valve (follow a diy on youtube), buy a Foxwell OBD2 scanner (at least $50), clear the code, and you should be good to go. The purge valve is often the issue....otherwise diagnosis is needed.

​

Edit: to pass the BS emissions test, just use CRC Emissions: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8#customerReviews read and follow directions.

LOWEST price on DEF per 55 Gal and FREE 2 Day Delivery... Amazon prime is amazing!
https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-DEF-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid/dp/B01JZXWBYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505496371&sr=8-1&keywords=def+55+gallon+drum