Best fuel system additives according to redditors

You can buy scented fuel additive in a variety of fragrances. I wouldn’t recommend using it but we tried this on a old engine and yes it works. The smell lingers for ages even after adding new fuel without the additive.

Allstar ALL78126 Grape Fuel Fragrance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZQS28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hWZQCbVPGGMDS

250blazeitfaggot

Sort of. But you can also buy fuel stabilizer commonly used in the marine industry since when you haul your boat out for winter most people don't empty their tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I For the curious.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22284-Protection-Treatment-Stabilizer/dp/B00HEZFZEK

Buy your old man some of this, and insist it be added to every tank of gas. At the very least, it must be added every time the car is parked. If you buy it yourself, at least you get over old miser hump. Its not some new "Fancy shit" either. Sta-bil is what the car collectors use to protect their $1 million Ferraris. If the guy thinks you are full of shit, call 5 mechanics with him listening on speaker phone.

Though the best approach with stubborn people is to lead them into thinking its his idea to use it. You know, leave some ads out where he can find them, use some in your car and say how much better its running...whatever can lead him on. I mean the classic example of leading people is...if you want your friend to get you both a beer from your fridge, start talking about how awesome beer is, and how you just got some last night to drink...

And yes your old man is partly right, better a tank of spoiled gas than a rusted out tank because condensation and the fact residue would dry up and varnish everything, but that was before we started running cars on what is effectively bourbon. Now the bad gas issue is even worse. Which is double why he should be using ethanol remover and stabilizer with every fill up on a classic.

Sta-bil, while perhaps not cheap, should keep the car alive.

I'm guessing it's this stuff.

And no, it's not going to improve your gas mileage. It might help clean carbon deposits out of your fuel system and help your car run slightly more efficiently, but any MPG gains will be negligible. You're not going to go from 18 MPG to 25 MPG just by putting some of this in your tank.

> never owned a diesel before

Once you experience the torque of a diesel, it's hard to go back to a gasser. My first diesel was an LB7. I bought it with 200,000 miles and sold it when it dropped an injector at 300,000 miles. Loved the truck and power. Injectors and head gasket are what to watch for on the LB7. Use a good fuel treatment and watch your coolant reservoir for a dark ring indicating head gasket issue. If you're really committed to the truck, add a Fass Fuel System.

Use this and drive the car hard on the way to inspection.

I can't say for sure if it will work for you, But this stuff will make a car with a dead cat pass in my state.

Fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

I've saved gasoline 2-3 years without STABIL, I'd be hard pressed to tell you whether or not this stuff is really required. But it is not real expensive so to me it is worth it.

What you really have to do to save gas is have a set of cans and rotate through them so you always use the oldest gas first.

Always get the scheduled maintenance done that is recommended in the owner’s booklet. Typically, I’ll get my oil change done at the same time because it’s usually every 8,000km/5000 miles. Make sure the mechanic uses 100% synthetic, and not some 50/50 cheap alternative.

For that salt buildup, Krown protectant is worth it. Get that applied at least every second year. In Canada it’s about $130, so in the US it’s probably $75-90. If you’re doing Krown and planning to regularly get a car wash, DO NOT go for the carwash that sprays the underside of the car. This can rinse off the Krown protectant over time.

Since you’re at the 62K mile mark, you can start using Lukas oil stabilizer and Lukas injector cleaner . You wouldn’t need it if you’re under 50k miles, but once the engine gets older it starts to burn oil less efficiently;it’s normal. My mechanic swears by this stuff- and no he doesn’t sell it, he tells me to grab it at the local hardware/automotive supply store, so I know he’s honest.

There's always this stuff. I've never used it though.

I always buy the cheapest gas available, but use Lucas Fuel Additive. It boosts my mileage a couple of miles per gallon and keeps the injectors clean & the upper cylinder lubricated.

For gas, you can use a stabilizer to store it for a few years. I use something like this to store gas although I tend to use it within a year: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B68V6I

I used to use Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubricant for about a year. Seemed to make the idle better. Been without it for about 6 years now though, and I haven't noticed a difference besides the idle.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Service-03080-06-Cetane-Additive/dp/B001JT1FJ6/

Would work. And I am sure we can find plenty of Diesel mechanics that would tell me it is a waste. But what I have heard from the VW engineers is the Diesel we have here in the US does not have enough lubrication compared to Euro diesel. And the lower lubrication that our Diesel here has is what is causing many failures of the fuel system on those vehicles.

And $25 for 250 gallons of Diesel... Again, pretty cheap insurance.

I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.

Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.

A few years ago in my area in upstate New York they started selling non-ethanol premium, I use it in my motorcycle as well. More gas stations are selling it now but I’m not sure if it’s available in your area. If it’s not, I would definitely start using the non-ethanol Marine Grade Sta-Bil I mentioned above in your storage cans right now.

www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y2FVKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_721oDb1SM96XC

Winter

Rest of the year

Oil

Filter

Yes indeed. I use twice the normal amount of Stabil fuel stabilizer and the gas is good for two years. I then use the gas in my vehicles with no issues at all. I've been doing this for over 10 years now and it is a system that works very well.

-Catalytic converters will start throwing codes eventually. Had my sensors spaced out (put a spacer between the sensor and spot they screw in on in the catalytic converter) so it wouldn't throw the codes anymore. I think the OEM converters are roughly 900 each.

-Here is a discussion on the timing chain for the 4.2L V8 S5. It does not seem to be the same issue as the earlier 4.2L V8's in the S4 and RS4's.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/778497-Timing-Chain-service-at-100k-miles

-Carbon will be an issue, just no good rule of thumb on how long to wait before getting it delt with. If you start seeing miss fire codes probably time to get it checked. My local non-audi shop charged me 800 for the time to clean it with break cleaner and a brush. They charge 86 an hour. You'll also get charged for new gaskets to put the intake manifold back on. However I was getting miss fire codes after getting mine cleaned so I ran a bottle of this through my gas tank and never saw the issue again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDVU6EI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-I've not had an issue with mounts yet not sure if/when I will. My car is currently at 111k miles and I bought it at 66k miles and I'm at least the 3rd owner. If you decide to replace them you can get more solid motor mounts, here is one company that sells them but there are several others out there that should sell them as well.
https://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/index.php

-List of things I've had to get fixed that I can remember.

-headlights (If I recall it was about 250 for both new ones together)

-Carbon cleaning

-Stereo system went bad, had to go to dealership to fix it, 1400 for oem replacement, diagnosing and time to install ended up costing me 2k

-Replaced oil separator OEM roughly 350 hopefully cuts down on carbon build up. Considered an oil catch can just never pulled the trigger to do it. Gotta remember to empty those if you get one.

-Currently dealing with randomly leaking AC system. Shop put dye in the AC system when they refilled it twice now, still can't find where it's leaking out with the black light.

-Hood strut went bad, replaced it.

Basically all general maintenance stuff outside the audio system. If you have any other questions let me know.

It doesn't answer your question, but if I were you I'd order some fuel stabilizer online. Fill up the tank to the tip-top and put that in.

Fuel stabilizer will keep your gas "fresh" for up to 2 years, so you should make it through a few months just fine. Just make sure to top off your tank and re-add the appropriate amount of stabilizer after a ride.

Someone I trust said to use Liqui Moly Jectron after I had problems with sparkplugs and coils getting build up. I'm under warranty so the dealership replaced them but he said to use the Jectron to keep it from happening again.

Sta-Bil allows gas to be stored up to two years. I'd half that time just to be safe. To avoid it ever going bad, just cycle your stored gas through your car and replace it.

Why would you change the tank? Is it leaking? Do you suspect algae bloom?

If you’re unsure of the state of the oil and tank, you can shock it.

I use this series:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IUP9LC/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT3GXO/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT1FJ6/

Do you have an air pump?

Also, SeaFoam is great for what it is (a detergent, for cleaning junk out of the fuel system) but you might want to try something like this:
link

Sweet! Ordered this and comments say it should solve the problem.

Is it legal to dump those bottles of "guaranteed to pass" additives into gas tanks before a smog test?

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8

I'm not saying there should be no standards. But the US automotive standards are extremely restrictive when compared to international standards. The US standards are even necessarily "better", just "different".

Here's a rundown on the situation:
http://jalopnik.com/a-simple-explanation-why-america-doesnt-get-european-h-1493377285

Probably wouldn't be a horrible idea to throw a bottle of fuel stabilizer in the tank as well. When you go to buy the battery just ask where the fuel stabilizer is. I personally use http://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I Edit- you dont need the 32oz like 4-8oz should be enough

LOWEST price on DEF per 55 Gal and FREE 2 Day Delivery... Amazon prime is amazing!
https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-DEF-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid/dp/B01JZXWBYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505496371&sr=8-1&keywords=def+55+gallon+drum

Gumout makes a DIY injection kit, but if they don't follow the instructions the bent pistons can happen. I could not find the Gumout kit but [here] is a similar 3M kit.(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PPL604/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00BAW3Y5A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0TBQHEDHE6XRW2HMMCAX)

No, you won’t need new cats. I had the same problem with my ‘89 and my dad and I found this wonderful product that is literally called- Pass Emissions Test. You just pour the stuff into the tank when it’s half empty, use the rest of the tank, fill it back up, and then you should pass with flying colors!

Pass Emissions

Thing 2: Your combustion system sounds like it could probably be cleaned.

To grossly oversimplify internal combustion engines, here’s a quick rundown of how they work: Gas gets spritzed into the combustion chamber (this is the part with cylinders and pistons) while fresh, outside air gets sucked in and filtered (this is the part they mean when they say intake manifold). The fuel spritz is controlled by the aptly-named fuel injection and increases when you put your foot down on the pedal. At the same time, the amount of air that comes in is controlled by the throttle body assembly, which opens and closes based on your acceleration. More pedal = more gas and more air. The air and the gas combine and the spark plug fires, igniting the mixture. Tiny explosion forces the piston upward in the cylinder with force, which moves crankshaft, which in turn moves all the other things and ta-daaa! You can go places in your car! More pedal, more gas, more air, more tiny booms, you go zoom! Very fun.

The problem is that modern gas isn’t 100% pure, and it leaves a residue when it ignites. It’s a black carbon deposit that’s almost identical to the soot that collects on the side of a glass candle except there’s way more of it, it’s way stickier and it’s made from the restless ghosts of all those dead dinosaurs you burn up every day to get to work. This residue probably has a real name but I’ve only ever heard it called carb, as in, “the engine is all carbed up so run a bottle of gum-out through it.”

What happens when this shit gets left behind is that it collects on your throttle body plate, which then can get stuck and not open and close appropriately. It can also collect on the little zappy ends of your spark plugs, which means they don’t fire as efficiently. Now without the right air/gas mix, and without the right booms, you no go zoom. And then, your engine is less efficient at burning the fuel in the first place, which means more uncombusted sediment and shit gets left behind and the whole thing becomes exponentially worse. The main sign of all of this is starting your car cold and, while still in park, seeing if your RPM needle bounces as the engine lopes, like Womp...Womp...Womp. If you feel like you need to punch the gas a little to keep it from stalling, that’s a sure sign.

But it doesn’t have to be that bad to need cleaning, and I generally believe that every car that’s not new could use it. Your fuel efficiency will improve and the smell your boyfriend smelled should go away. Shops call this service a fuel system clean, pre-combustion service or an ignition clean, but basically it’s any service that cleans your throttle body, combustion chamber, mass air flow and O2 sensors. You can have it done, or you can run several treatments through your gas tank to approximate this. I like this one but you can get Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil at any auto parts store, too. Cleaningvthe fuel injectors and valves that way and changing out your spark plugs should improve things a bit.

Pro tip: if you have any parts replaced, always have them show you the old part and the new one after it’s installed, if it’s visible. This is an easy way to discourage the most blatant fraudulent deception (charging for new parts not installed), though some shops will find other ways. If they tell you something else is wrong, make them show you. Ask to see the OBD codes. In my experience (being a woman) this causes no problems when you feign curiosity, like “ooh, can I see what that looks like?”

Oh, and, one more thing. If you have the belt/tensioner done and your AC doesn’t immediately blow cold again, have them check the relay/fuse. There’s a fuse box under the hood (in addition to the one by your steering wheel) with a fuse that controls the compressor; if it tried to kick in but your belt wasn’t running it, it could have blown that fuse. It’s a bit frustrating at first when you think you did all you could to fix it but it still doesn’t work and then you remember the fuse. Went through that on my husband’s car.

I know it’s a lot of information but I hope you feel better prepared. The not knowing what’s wrong or what could go wrong with my car is really anxiety-inducing for me, so I hope I’ve helped clear some of that for you.

Let me know how it goes, please!

I second this. Try using this B3C Fuel Solutions 2-024-1 Mechanic In A Bottle 24 oz. Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHS25OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NDjGzbDH7J2EK

For the lazy. Basically, you squeeze the main reservoir and it fills up the upper portion to your desired measurement. I don't know that I'd drink mouthwash out of an old Stabil bottle though...

What kind of gas are you running? What brand?

In turbo engines running cheap low grade gas can cause carbon buildup. You should be buying gas from top tier stations.

Run this through your truck a couple of times, should help.

BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z4EKybBVCRTRY

One more thing, if you really want to try cleaning the injectors, on this car, buy this and throw it in your gas tank following the instructions for how much on the bottle. It's basically all the dealer is doing.

I think you can order Trufuel. It's in 32oz. Cans and I just buy it at home depot though lowes carries it as well. I guess amazon sells it also! http://www.amazon.com/TruFuel-4-Cycle-Ethanol-Free-Outdoor-Equipment/dp/B009QT1KLO (pack of 6)it's ethanol-free 92 octane gasoline basically. It's a little more spendy than mixing your own gas, but I don't have to do anything to my mower during the winter or worry about lines getting gummed up. Last winter I ran the mower until there was no trufuel left. Started first pull this spring. I also use the 2-cycle trufuel in my weedeater. Maintenance wise you should be set for a bit with a new mower, I think it says in the manual to change the oil after first 20 hours use or so. Just change the oil per the schedule and if your in a super dusty place keep an eye on the filter.

If it's a guaranteed 3-4 months, no worries. However, when it's out of sight out mind, your timeline may stretch and it'll become 6-8 months, etc.

So your gas doesn't turn to varnish if it does end up sitting longer than you expected, add some Sta-Bil.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

You can get this pretty much anywhere.

Yeah, it does. Theoretically if you run the car at 3000+ RPM for a while (30 minutes) every so often it's not supposed to happen. You can manage it by getting a spray-in cleaner every 30K (about $100-175 for a shop to do maybe?) or you can go whole hog and have the cylinder heads media-blasted every 60-70K (about $300-600 depending on what all they do). I mean I've had the dealer quote $1100 but they also change the oil and tires and all kinds of shit along with the intake cleaning.

Personally I had the media-blast done at ~70K and I will run the spray through it every six months or so as a maintenance. There's a couple of videos out there where someone will spray and then run a camera down the spark plug hole and it's cleaner but not as perfect as a media blast. So I'm thinking it's not going to clean off years worth of carbon but it might keep the buildup from forming if you keep after it.

> Full winterization checklist: - bike on stands, wheels off ground - treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too) - change oil before storage - change coolant before storage - wash, wax and detail before storage - clean and lube chain (if so equipped)


This is hundreds of dollars worth of shit that plenty of people don't have to spare, so I'm gonna brake it down a bit.


> bike on stands, wheels off ground

If you don't own stands, this could cost $400 or more(cause you have to buy them). The point in doing this is to prevent flat spots in your tires, so if you've got old tires you don't give a shit about, just let it sit and change them next season. If you do give a shit about your tires but don't want to buy stands, just roll the bike around every week or so to change where it's stilling on the tires.

> treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too)

This is a big one that really shouldn't be neglected. You really, REALLY don't want to have to change an injector because a clump of old fuel clogged it. Fuel stabilizer is relatively cheap at $5 for 4 ounces so order some and get it into the bike before putting her away (let it run through the engine too, 1/8-1/4th of the full tank).

> change oil before storage


I take the opposite approach, changing the oil after storage. For the layman, changing your oil has little to do with lubrication. Oil is a lubricant by it's molecular structure, the actual oil itself never stops being a lubricant.


However, there are a ton of additives in oil to keep your engine clean. Anti-mosture, cleaning detergents, anti-foam, etc, etc. These break down over time and use(3 month, 3000 miles) and need to be replaced. And when they break down, they get in the way of your oil(basically filling it with crap so it doesn't lubricate as cleanly as new oil).


> change coolant before storage

IMHO no point in doing this as long as you stay up to date on your coolant. Does it look bad? Change it. Does it look good? Leave it. Just make sure you look it over when pulling her out next year.


> wash, wax and detail before storage

Wax isn't going to protect your paint from cold temps. If you have a cover, put it over the bike to keep it from getting covered in dust.


> clean and lube chain (if so equipped)

Definitely a good idea, 3 months is plenty of time for a change to get some heavy rust on it. If you're super lazy, at least spray it down with some lube(Not WD-40!) before putting it away.

https://www.amazon.com/Scepter-Resistant-Closures-5-Gallon-Military/dp/B000MT94TC

+

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Pour-Gas-Can-Replacement-Spout/dp/B06WRRXG1X

+

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22207-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000JJHNAW


Try to rotate as frequently as you can with ethanol free gas. I wouldn't recommend you let it go longer than 2 years, but I'm currently burning up some 2014 era gas and my toyota is giving me no complaints. I am running 50/50 fresh/old though.

Lucas fuel treatment

I dump in 6 ounces every tankful. I usually fill up on a 1/4 tank. You can buy a small bottle to carry in the truck that way you have a quart on hand and it's easy to put in. Then I refill it out of the gallon jug

I also use FPPF Killem Biocide Additive. 1/2 an ounce every other tank.

Stabil.

Buy some. Go to WalMart or wherever you buy oil and whatnot. They will have it. When you put fuel in your bike put some stabil in as well. They have terms for how much is appropriate, I don't know them. I add a solid dollop or 6 when I fill up. Been doing it for 10 years, so far so good. Stabil keeps your gas from going stale. Stale gas is bad. Bike no run good. Adding to little may not get the job done. Add too much and all is well. It's cheap stuff. A bottle lasts me a year or two.

>

Seriously consider heated gear. It's awesome.

>Any recommendations? my battery is already set up

The word on the street is that Gerbings makes the best stuff, very nice warranty as well. My electrics are FirstGear. Mostly because they were cheaper. 5-6 years of use thus far and no trouble from the gear.

You need a controller. Google it. On high - which is what electrics default too - you'll cook. IMO a jacket/gloves are the way to start. It's what I have been riding in for years now in PA. Pants/etc are all well and good.. but I don't seem to need them much. I may just be tough as nails ; )

Heated grips will do an awful lot and I have ridden through several winters with just grips and a jacket. Heated gloves are a sign from god that he loves us all and wants us to die on two wheels.

Good luck!

Buy this

If you regularly use brand name fuel like Chevron or Exxon, you can skip the injector cleaning well past 30k miles. If you regularly use the absolute cheapest gas you can find, you may way to use BG 44K on occasion. Probably works 90% as well as the dealer service at 15% the cost. https://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

The cost of the equipment used for this job is expensive...that's why the shop is expensive (you're basically paying for their equipment or it's been already paid off. Since you don't have $$, I'll recommend 2 steps (It'll make you be a parts-swapper, but cheaper than a full diagnosis). Most of the time, the common bad parts are the gas cap (I doubt it) or the evap purge valve: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-503-Evaporative-Emissions-Canister/dp/B002E39YBW/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Infiniti%7C68&Model=G35%7C885&Year=2007%7C2007&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Just replace the purge valve (follow a diy on youtube), buy a Foxwell OBD2 scanner (at least $50), clear the code, and you should be good to go. The purge valve is often the issue....otherwise diagnosis is needed.

​

Edit: to pass the BS emissions test, just use CRC Emissions: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8#customerReviews read and follow directions.

I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.

http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7

Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!

Ever try a fuel stabilizer?