Best dog dematting tools according to redditors
We found 110 Reddit comments discussing the best dog dematting tools. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 110 Reddit comments discussing the best dog dematting tools. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Have you tried using an undercoat rake? I recently got one for my long-haired cat and it's been pretty amazing so far. It doesn't tug like the furminator and it's better at removing loose fur, so as long as it's used regularly I don't think mats can develop in the first place.
You want something more like this https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Undercoat-Designed-Undercoats/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=grooming+rake&qid=1572242409&sr=8-5
You do NOT want any blades on the tools you use as they can break and damage the coat extremely easily. Honestly the only brushes I use for my own dogs is a soicker brush and a comb for tangles and I own 3 aussies. Along with monthly deshed baths and blow outs, they hardly shed at all and have nice coats
Furminator is okay, but an undercoat rake like this is what a groomer would use, and will do much better to not damage the topcoat. I use one on my aussie and he loves it.
Nope, just brushing it with something like this.
Many breeds of dogs have something called an undercoat. It's a thick downy layer that grows underneath the outside fur that's used for insulation.
Many will grow in a different one for summer than for winter so twice a year they shed the heck out of it and this is what happens.
I had a Newfoundland that I would brush like this every day for two weeks twice a year and get at least this much undercoat out each time.
(To be clear, I'd brush him other times, too. But during the sheds it was unbelievable how much fur would come out.)
You're not wrong, though. It's this undercoat that makes shaving these kinds of dogs problematic - the insulation, from cold or hot, doesn't work if the top coat and undercoat are shaved off.
I have a dog with a double coat and the Furminstor didn’t do the trick for me. It’s teeth aren’t long enough to get down into the undercoat, where most of the shedding was coming from. Believe it or not, I got this for $6 at my local pet shop and it’s worked wonders.
It looks like she’s already shedding quite a bit on her back end.
JW Pet Company GripSoft Double Sided Comb Dog Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006349YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kr6qDbXHPY638
Dude. It’s a dog comb. I have one. Seriously. It’s pretty much exactly like this:
Li'l Pals Double Side Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O39TDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7tIdAb8WVRJB9
Edit: And another:
Mangostyle Dog and Cat Comb Double Sided with Stainless Steel teeth Anti Shedding Brush , Grooming Tool for both Large and Small Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRS6Q3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UxIdAbSQ7BQRT
And another:
JW Pet Company GripSoft Double Sided Comb Dog Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006349YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CyIdAbJ7DD5X9
And another:
Dog Grooming Tool, Cat Grooming Comb, Devin 8-Inch Stainless Steel Double-Sided Comb with Wooden Handle, By WPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E80VBJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1yIdAbZ1N16D2
And another:
Pixikko Double Sided Stainless Steel Shedding Comb with Rotating Pins for All Coat Types Dogs & Cats Daily Grooming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VUSVOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ozIdAbH57B6W1
Get them into training ASAP. They can be a stubborn, headstrong, energetic breed. In the wrong hands, this could be a disastrous combination.
They have razor sharp puppy teeth that they like to put to good use. You will most likely end up with some handsome red scratches on your legs/arms/face/etc. Do not fret, this is normal.
If you did not know already, this breed is prone to hip dysplasia. The occurrence of hip dysplasia is based on mainly genetics, weight, and exercise. Hopefully you got your pup from a good breeder who screens the parents' hips and elbows, as orthopedically sound parents will more likely produce orthopedically sound pups. You can also help reduce the likelihood of HD by keeping your GSD lean and on a healthy food. I recommend Victor Nutra Pro here https://www.chewy.com/victor-select-nutra-pro-active-dog/dp/129281 You can find other good foods on Dog Food Advisor. In addition, here is a chart that illustrates the different body types of dogs: http://www.dummies.com/pets/dogs/how-to-evaluate-your-dogs-weight/ This is just a general guideline of course - the healthy body types will vary slightly by breed. But this is a good starting point. Last point is exercise. Don't put too much stress on their joints at a young age. Ie, don't run them too much, have them jump too much, etc. Keep the exercise low impact at this stage.
I recommend feeding your pup from a Long Wobler, as they can tend to eat fast. You can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ALMW0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502891&sr=8-1&keywords=kong+wobbler
I recommend brushing out their fur with a rake and Kong Zoom Groom. You can also find them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0062Z0RPA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502790&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+rake+brush and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AR19Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502846&sr=8-1&keywords=zoom+groom&dpPl=1&dpID=51QkRAxrf0L&ref=plSrch
I would highly recommend crate training. It's one of the best things you could do for your dog. I like the Midwest 48" crate here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QFWCLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496503032&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest%2Bicrate%2Bfolding%2Bmetal%2Bdog%2Bcrate&th=1&psc=1
Let me know if you have any questions!
While I don't disagree with the other comment, because yes, once your adult dog is older you can skip many months bathing and only need to brush once a week, there are many, many puppies who do not get groomed enough while young and don't ever get used to it. As a result, it ends up being an extremely stressful process for them and because they were not adjusted to it when they were young, this becomes a PROCESS to reverse later on. This is not just in the realm of grooming - there are so many dogs that are so freaked out that they express their anal glands when they go in for nail trims, dogs whose owners don't realize there are areas that mat easily so they have huge golf-ball sized mats behind their ears that need to be cut out, and dogs that are never acclimated to high velocity dryers so when their owner has to inevitably take them to a groomer because they had never chosen to acclimate their dog to basic grooming processes themselves, the dog freaks the hell out while they are there and that ends up being a hit to their wallet - only a groomer can groom them which becomes expensive, and tougher dogs usually command a higher price because of the time and effort needed to get them groomed.
For a young puppy, you have the best chance of making sure that none of this happens by frontloading the expectations with your little guy or gal and creating a consistent grooming routine. Even if you don't buy your own high velocity dryer, introduce them to the sensations early and often - vacuum cleaner acclimation for the noises, and some people use Shop Vacs or leaf blowers as they do a nice, adequate job on drying young puppy coat. My dog's breeder recommended bathing every week or so until the puppy was 4-6 months old, then dropping down to monthly until they're an adult - you can do this but really make sure you wash all the shampoo and conditioner out so you do not dry the skin. My puppy was tougher due to the fact we had to go to a crazy pet store to do a DIY wash, so we bathed him weekly to get him used to it until 8 months. Once the dog is an adult you can go months without bathing for sure.
When the dog is a puppy, it's important to comb down to the skin to remove mats and tangles a couple times a week. I did it every 2-3 days. This will be hard because it might be annoying or hurt a puppy, and once they realize they have teeth, they will not be afraid to use them, so it's really easy to put it off. Part of the reason it is annoying for a puppy is because as the puppy ages they have a mix of puppy and adult coat, which causes difficult tangles to extract sometimes, and detangling can be a painful process. I made this cheatsheet of spots to take special care with that mat easily especially during various coat transitions so if you focus on these more often you can prevent mats before they even start. Search YouTube for videos on how to groom and line comb dogs, there are tons that will help you with your technique. In general, as long as a dog isn't too tangled, I use a cheap but quality undercoat rake for the big spots a couple times a week to get the undercoat out and prevent matting, which allows me to spot-linecomb the problem areas. I also use a pin brush for the tail (the tines on this model are about 5mm too long than what Sammy people recommended me), although some people prefer to line comb the tail. Slicker brushes are also great for the topcoat, or if you are trying to get that super poofy blown out coat - slickering when the dog is 3/4ths dry from the skin up will get you that "straightening iron"-esque poofy marshmallow look and that's usually how it's done for shown dogs.
Don't forget to handle your puppy's paws and play with it's feet daily, trim nails once every 1-2 weeks, and open to their mouth to inspect their bite (to make sure that if something happens in the future, you or a vet can inspect their teeth without any issue). All of these tend to be very important things that help a lot when your puppy becomes an adult.
We were extra careful with our puppy because we were very lax with a lot of these things with our older dog, a small dog who used to readily accept nail trims, and now she thrashes and snaps so badly we cannot do it at home and have to take her to a groomer and force-feed her chicken nuggets while the groomer does her paws, and absolutely resents baths. We tried very hard to make sure our Samoyed didn't have to go through those levels of stress especially since he's way larger and we wouldn't be able to control him the same if we needed to. My dog is now almost 2, and he's so chill about bathing and grooming now that it's not even remotely a stressful process, even though he was absolutely NOT fun to groom during adolescence (this is a picture of him being dried after not being bathed for almost 2 months). Drying him is actually pretty fun and relaxing and even though honestly I skimp on combing and brushing quite a bit, when we end up doing it he will lay for me nicely and do okay because of all the work we put into him when he was young. :)
Dematting / deshedding tool for dogs and cats:
https://www.amazon.com/MIU-COLOR-Grooming-Undercoat-Dematting/dp/B00DDKQRLU
Get him brushed by a professional to get his coat looking perfect and then you can do it yourself to maintain it. Just be sure to let the groomer know that he/she shouldn’t trim or shave any of his fur. You’d be surprised at how many groomers don’t know how to groom double coated dogs.
Edit: Here’s a list of all the tools I use to groom my pup.
Edit #2: Was going through my amazon purchase history to see if I could suggest any other grooming products and came across the furminator purchase I made. Never buy one of those things, regardless of how highly rated it is on amazon. It cuts through your dogs coat instead of removing the loose fur. Stick to the rake I linked above.
Furminator or any other brushes that actually cut the undercoat are terrible for aussies or any other dog with an undercoat. It often causes the topcoat to grow back weirdly which will result in undercoat burn.
We use a rake such as: https://www.amazon.com/rake-deshedding-dematting-brush-comb/dp/B01M14GWS2 It works great and will pull out loose undercoat. You should use it more regularly when the pup is blowing coat.
My belgian pup is 11 weeks :D So welcome to the family!
For grooming you're going to want:
I would not use a furminator, it will cut the coat and give a rough look to the dog.
Are you hesitant because of the blade portion of it? Because we just got the bladeless version and use the brush itself. It works wonders to help get Wally's little sprouts out.
Be careful with a teddy bear cut on a Pom. It’s not advised. The hair likely will not grow back in some places. They have a double coat like some larger breeds (e.g. Malamute) which should not be cut short. For summer time, just have their undercoat thin out using an undercoat rake such as this...
Pet Grooming Tool - 2 Sided Undercoat Rake for Cats & Dogs - Safe Dematting Comb for Easy Mats & Tangles Removing - No More Nasty Shedding and Flying Hair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fl18AbCVDYKW1
We have stopped using our furminator because we feel like it's too rough on his skin. A combination of a paddle, thin bristled brush with a rake-like brush has worked wonders! Trying to stay on top of the hair this year as he sheds his winter coat.
https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Undercoat-Designed-Undercoats/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519734351&sr=8-9&keywords=rake+brush
https://www.amazon.com/Rotatable-Footprint-Paddle-Grooming-Suitable/dp/B01FCTG7TQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1519734368&sr=8-8&keywords=paddle+dog+brush
Strongly agree! We brush & use this de-matting brush on ours. Works wonders.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIOB90E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2pZyCbB219KGB
Just to add my two cents, I've found the Furminator removes a lot of fuzz but it's uncomfortable for the pup and may remove too much of their undercoat.
Ideally, you want something that removes loose clumps and de-tangles knots. The dogs shed plenty on their own, your brushing should just keep their coats clean and silky.
My aussies' favorite brush is this Safari undercoat rake. It's way cheaper than the $50 Furminator, removes a ton of fuzz, and it's much easier to brush with. The teeth don't poke or tug so my guys love it, they'll even roll over and ask for extra brushies, something they've never done with wire-toothed or Furminator-style brushes.
We use this one for every-day quick grooming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ICB3OWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_FdcnnQb318fFR
And this one about twice a week for dematting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIOB90E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3LKoLDQk78irQ
Edit: The dematting tool is worth the money
Grooming: I've tried every brush out there, and the most effective on our aussie is a grooming rake and a slicker brush. We use the grooming rake for de-shedding on his back and belly, and the slicker brush on his ears, mane, pants, feathers, and tail to get out knots because he won't tolerate the rake on that thicker fur. Also, get a good grooming spray, and I suggest investing in a good professional groomer (that knows not to shave a double coat) every 4-5 months depending on if your dog gets matted.
Walking: I like the wonder walker, easy walk is also good.
Toys: Puzzle toys! Ditch the food bowl entirely, aussies need a job to do. My dog loves any ball he can push with his nose that dispenses treats.
Furminator is not a good choice for sammies...they are designed rip/cut out undercoat, which shouldn't be done to a sammy.
We use something like this for an undercoat rake provided to us when we picked up our dog.
I used to have a himalayan too and the best thing I found for getting through the hair is an undercoat rake called a Mars Coat King. I am on a tablet so all I can give is a moble link. This saved me so many hours in grooming my cat because it can go all the way through the hair. I never had to clip or cut out any mats again after I started using it.
Okay, thank you! I'll keep that in mind. I have an undercoat rake (the kind that has straight pins, not curved - similar to this one) but I've heard mixed suggestions on how often to use it. Is once per week about right?
I also way overspent on a Chris Christensen buttercomb lol, the one with a fine and a coarse side. I almost certainly could have just gotten a cheaper Andis one but here we are. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Slicker and comb (same as above), as well as a rake (that rake is furminator brand, but it's not a furminator) . You also might find a detangling spray helpful, but most likely the coat just needs a lot of work. Unfortunately a lot of those poodle mixes just have a very high maintenance coat, in spite of what the breeders say about them.
Unless the coat is matted beyond repair I wouldn't shave an aussie. If your dog has an unusually dense undercoat you may need to bring in more than a normal slicker brush to complete your grooming routine. A high velocity dryer does wonders to force out dead undercoat. A mars type stripper like this one: www.amazon.ca/Mars-Stainless-10-Blade-Stripper-Wooden/dp/B00061MPL0 will also help you.
I groom my aussies totally at least once a month when it's not show season, but I am a groomer. Ideally your dog should be bathed/dried/trimmed at least every 8 weeks and brushed in between. If you haven't taken your dog to a groomer before, I would strongly consider it. An aussie in good shape shouldn't cost more than $45-60 bucks to have done and sometimes you just need professional help!
Okay, I was told the same thing about the furminator and my breeder suggested buying this instead-Pet Grooming Tool - 2 Sided Undercoat Rake for Cats & Dogs - Safe Dematting Comb for Easy Mats & Tangles Removing - No More Nasty Shedding and Flying Hair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7dkKDb6RZNP1E
I brush all three of my cats every day and it really helps with shedding and the cats love it.
This works really well on short hair cats:
https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Undercoat-Designed-Undercoats/dp/B0083TSC64?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3
Brush would really depends on his coat, is he a double coated breed or no? I'm assuming based on the shedding he is double coat. An undercoat rake is a really good brush to have and then a softer top coat brush. I personally don't use a furminator but tons of people swear by them, I use this but there are many options out there.
As for food there are many different types and many different price points.
Purina Pro get a lot of love because of the quality and value.
Hills Science Diet is another really good one on the more expensive side
Same with Orijen, but a little more expensive
We feed mostly Merrick and I love it and so does Cody
Many people who have Costco near them love the Kirkland brand food but I've never tried it.
You want food with high quality ingeedients, no fillers, high protein content and something your dog does well on. If their coat is shiny and they are having good poops then any food in theory could work for you. Not every dog needs to be on grain free, but it's something you can explore if you want.
No matter the food you decide on make sure you introduce it slowly over a few days/week(s) to ensure his tummy doesn't get upset.
We brush her 1-2 times a day and we use this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OIP3QEU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We also bathe her once a week and every other day we spray her with a puppy deodorizer. Lemme know if you want that info too.
Edit: She has naturally wavy hair, not curly hair like her poodle mother. More of her father I assume.
My go to tool is just a plain ordinary comb, like this but mine has a handle. I've talked with other Aussie owners and breeders and it seems like a comb and a slicker brush are the tools to use.
The comb does the best job of any tool I've tried (I used to work at a pet store and have tried almost everything) without damaging their coat. It gets right down to the undercoat, pulls up the loose stuff, gets out tangles and mats or sticks or burs.
For technique, check out how to line comb.
Bully sticks work well. They smell a little but it's better than needle sharp teeth on your fingers non stop. The pups like them so it's easy to substitute a bully stick for a finger. We tried other stuff but these seemed to work best for us. Hold the stick on one one end and let them chew on the other while they sit in your lap.
Eventually you'll want a slicker brush and a de-matting comb but you won't need them right away.
I like this one because the button on the back makes cleaning it easy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OIP3QEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
De-matting comb - google you tube for how to use it if you need to.
https://www.amazon.com/Safari-W6116-De-matting-Comb/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002ARR2W&pd_rd_r=YTN6ZJW7MQGCSKSJDW80&pd_rd_w=iR5st&pd_rd_wg=lxJ1D&psc=1&refRID=YTN6ZJW7MQGCSKSJDW80
I have two Samoyeds and I would not recommend a furminator for their coats, I tried it on my male one time and I found that it broke his outer coat rather than just remove the undercoat, it also ripped out the undercoat which wasn't even loose. Samoyeds need their undercoat for both warmth in the winter and protection from heat in the summer.
What works very well for my guys is just just a simple rake, a greyhound comb and a pin brush (for their tails and finishing). These tools will get all the loose undercoat out without damaging their outer coat or ripping out any attached undercoat.
Great post.
I'd like to add-One of my absolute most essential tools for my sam - a rake, specifically one with very wide teeth. This is the one I've got: Coastal Pet - Safari Long Tooth Undercoat Dog Rake
Once they start to blow their coat, it's absolutely essential (helps gently pull all of the loose fur off). I had a smaller one for when he was a pup and it worked great!
I've been using one on my German Shepard mix and Patterdale Terrier for years. It removes lots of hair and they've never had mats.
Edit: Here is the kind I use :) http://www.amazon.com/Furminator-104012-FURminator-Dog-Rake/dp/B0062Z0RPA/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_y
Dogs don't sweat or cool off using their skin, if anything his insulating coat is helping keep him from overheating. His coat is the type that will never be the same nor will it have those insulating properties if you get in there with the clippers - don't. Try getting an undercoat rake (it looks like a little metal rake) to get the dead undercoat out and cut back walks during the heat wave - you can also get your walks in pre-dawn and at night!
Absolutely! Here is the rake, slicker, and dematting comb. The dematting comb works well, but I do have more success using the rake and slicker more frequently, instead of having to resort to the dematting comb if I slack off on the brushing for too long.
Sora is the only husky I've owned so far (although I have to keep myself from not having a dozen or two) so his situation may or may not be the norm, but twice a year he will shed his undercoat (happens to all Huskies but I'm not sure on the frequency) which typically lasts 6-8 weeks in his case. During this time you can pluck patches of wooly hair from his coat since they get dislodged from the skin; with regular brushing you can keep the runaway hair in check - a light brushing every day and a couple passes of something like the Furminator once a week should help.
I've found that the best thing to help remove the dislodged hair is to actually use a flea comb - it gets the hair right out, but not all sections of the undercoat decide to go at the same time.
Outside of this period he sheds mildly, so I use a Furminator and one of these and I think they work well. Depends on the length of your dog's hair, but since mine has medium hair both of these work.
These guys just never stop shedding though, and they have a LOT of hair. It's just something you learn to live with, but some folks can't stand the mess they naturally make. Having a Husky and being a neat freak don't go well together :)
Edit: Like said below, you never want to shave these guys when the concern is for their heat tolerance. Their coat protects them from extreme cold but also from extreme heat, and their skins are very sensitive to the sunlight. I does them more harm than good to shave them.
GoPets Dematting Comb with 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIOB90E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Life changing
On the topic of brushes, the Furminator is absolutely awesome, but for longer haired Husky's I'd recommend the GoPets Comb.
Especially good if you've got one that gets mats every shedding season, for obvious reasons. The comb tends to cut through mats instead of "pulling" them out like a rake does, then the Furminator is good for getting the loose stuff off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OIOB90E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would recommend to anyone with a long haired/teddy bear husky. Short hairs don't need it nearly as much (I have one long and one short haired), and a rake tends to work better for them.
I'd actually recommend against a furminator in your case. Furminators do very well with shorter-haired double-coats like a lab. Berners do have double coats, but their outer "guard" coat is very long so the furminator wouldn't get down the to the undercoat very effectively.
My recommendation is a greyhound comb (all dog owners should have this, #1 tool in your arsenal) and an undercoat rake with curved teeth like this: http://www.amazon.com/Undercoat-Rake-DeSheddingTool-Fantastic-Grooming-High-Brush-Cat-Grooming-Grooming/dp/B00CMJZ4TE
Source: Used to be professional dog groomer, tried a lot of equipment, and asked a lot of questions from fellow groomers at several different locations.
I was thinking about introducing the puppy to a dremel-type nail file from an early age, working it up to it slowly (introducing it, treating, touching it to its paw, treating, etc.) - thoughts?
Furminator makes a wide-tooth non-bladey undercoat rake, Link - worth looking into? Or something like this one? My dog is going to blow its undercoat twice a year and I've read elsewhere that undercoat rakes help a lot to remove the fluff and keep them from matting. I'll be taking the dog to the groomer as well to help it out of course, but I plan on brushing daily with it.
And the Les Poochs looks in the same range as a Furminator anyway, which I was budgeting for way back when before I research double coats more, so thank you for that recommendation.
For the brushing that people are recommending, make sure to use an undercoat brush (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/) and or a slicker brush but not the furminator blade type brush. We didn't realize this initially for our Aussie. Your dog should naturally maintain the outer coat but you'll want the rake to get the undercoat. It was a shocking experience the first time we brushed him with it.
As others have said, prolonged exposure to direct sunlight with no water is really what you need to worry about. We live in Texas and while summer clearly isn't his favorite season, he still plays fine in the heat. He'll just drink a lot of water. Be careful with asphalt especially on puppy paws. The ground gets really hot!
An undercoat rake would probably really help too. This combined with a fine-toothed comb is what we use on our
shedding machinecorgi.I trim my morkies face about once a week to get rid of the nasty crusted hair around his eyes and mouth. Once his hair gets longer than abut an inch once per day brushing is essential, but even then mats will persist. I use this brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIOB90E?psc=1 and its the only one my dog seems to like.
What you want is a dematting rake. A Furminator is good for maintenance, but to remove actual mats that's what you want. It'll cut right though them instead of you tugging on it with a Furminator.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n20iDbTP61H2F
I and using a rake brush similar to this (I think mine has shorter spikes)brush Right now I’m just doing one or two passes when he falls asleep, sometimes I can get more depending on how hard he sleeps. I got him about a month ago. I This is good information thank you
Undercoat rakes are a godsend. Between that and a coat king, I rarely use furminators on my dogs any more.
Undercoat Rake
Also, the term you're looking for isn't "malting," I'm sure you may have meant molting, but that's not quite used to describe dogs. =) Shedding or blowing coat are the common phrases.
Step 1 - Wrangle dog.
Step 2 - Undercoat rake
Step 3 - Slicker brush to clean up the loose hairs
Sometimes I use something like a zoom groom (like a rubber curry comb) before I use a slicker brush.
I’m not OP, but I’m a groomer and I own an Eskimo :). Slicker brush first to separate hair and loosen up undercoat and then an undercoat rake are what I use on my girl and dogs like her.
https://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-GripSoft-Double/dp/B0006349YY
I get it now- I did the A/B comparison video at my parents house because the Furminator is theirs.. It's the FURminator rake: https://www.amazon.co.uk/FURminator-104012-Professional-Rake-Green-x/dp/B0062Z0RPA
I told them to buy an undercoat rake like mine and they ended up buying the FURminator rake by accident.
I made the video in response to this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/WiggleButts/comments/4gyklh/accurate_in_this_house_atleast/d2mmtvh
Post pics of your first rakage!
I have that one for my Eskimo mix - it's nice at removing mats too, but for some reason doesn't seem to work as well on my newf (I only use it if he has mats, and so far it's only been a small one under the ear).
This is what I use on him (but his coat isn't as fluffy as most newfs). I also have a regular comb.
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon5stars-Dog-Comb-Stainless-Deshedding/dp/B07K9H1PM8/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=undercoat+rake&qid=1565294514&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-9
For what it's worth I made the same mistake and bought the furminator for my eskimo mix - I really wish they were honest in the description and said that it's not recommended for double coated dogs, I hate wasting money.
Sounds like you're doing your research! Several of your questions are repeated multiple times, not sure if you had other questions instead or if that was just a glitch. As a corgi owner here are my thoughts:
Get one of these and throw the clumps in the trash, vacuum is only going to get whats on the very top and probably ruin your $400 Dyson in the process.
https://www.amazon.com/Furminator-104012-FURminator-Dog-Rake-x/dp/B0062Z0RPA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1542596799&sr=8-6&keywords=dog+brush+rake
Source: Wife is a 10 year grooming salon owner.
So:
Awesome!
Like this? PawsPamper Extra Wide Undercoat Rake for Medium to Large Dogs, Cats - 20 Blade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXQZLLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YWhtDbXB3BHM6
So far we have towel-dried, then air dried doggo. Bad?
The dog’s fur will recover from my furminator use, right?
Congrats!! If you've never had a puppy before, my #1 recommendation is to get a trainer who will come to your house and work with you. They are more for you than for the dog. We did that and while it was really expensive, it was a blessing!
One thing our trainer told us is to let the puppy have access to only a little bit of the house at a time. A crate helps with that, but we didn't want it to feel like punishment and we wanted to be able to let him play around just as a dog in a controlled area. So we bought this playpen and zip tied it to the crate. You can also get linoleum to put underneath the playpen area, but make sure it's all one sheet (otherwise he'll chew on the ends). That also helps clean up potty mistakes!
Speaking of potty, we got a little bell to put on the door. We made him nudge it with his nose or paw (basically picked him up) every time we went out. Then when we finally let him explore more, he knew how to let us know he had to go. Of course, he also used it just as an excuse to go outside, so there's that.
You mentioned you're good to go on crates--did you get one that is life stages and lets you adjust how much room is available? Not a huge deal if not, but if you did, make sure you use it. They don't need a whole lot of room in the crate because they'll just pee on one end and sleep on the other.
For grooming, you don't really need a lot for a puppy (at least in our experience, and our older dog grew up to be a HUGE fluffball). You're more likely to hurt him and turn him off. For our grown up guys, we use a pin brush, a rake brush, a de-matting comb, grooming scissors, and dremmel. We also do your normal ear cleaning solution (we get ours from the vet, so I don't remember the brand offhand, it's the same thing as online) and shampoo. This is what we used when they were puppies. Another essential is puppy wipes for pesky danglers and muddy paws.
For a puppy, though, I really wouldn't use all that stuff. We used a little kong brush to get him used to a brush on his fur, but we didn't even use that until his fur was a little longer (but still too short to use the other brushes). The big thing with grooming a puppy is getting him used to you touching him EVERYWHERE. Stick your fingers in his ears and mouth, rub all over his paws, make him lay down on his back in your lap, etc. Definitely start on nails asap--even if you don't actually trim them, just holding the dremmel up to their nails and getting them used to it helps A LOT. Also the ear cleaner is an essential for golden puppies. Our trainer and vet both told us to drop it in their ears, let them shake their heads, then use q-tips in all the nooks and crannies.
Other essential products are LOTS of toys. You'll figure out real quick what your guy likes. Our first dog was more of a casual chewer, so fabric toys worked, but our second dog LOVES to eat fabric so we had to go with hard toys only. I highly recommend toys by West Paw! As you know, golden puppies will chew on LITERALLY EVERYTHING so you need a backup distractor toy at all times to replace the flavor of the minute. Keep in mind that if you give up trying to stop them chewing on something (say, for example, your computer chair), they will think it's ok to chew on that for the rest of their life. :(
We also got a slow-feeder bowl because our guys gobble down their food like it will disappear if they don't. And if your guy is really annoying with the water bowl (i.e., repeatedly knocking it over), don't worry too much--he'll grow out of it. I recommend keeping a towel under it until he learns all he wants to know about water!
Have fun with your little guy!!!! I'll add anything else I can think of later but feel free to ask if there's anything else you're curious about!
We have the orange furminator for long hair. It does ok, but it pulls at the hair.
This is cheaper and does an amazingly better job raking the undercoat: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O-YbBb6MTAZ3G
Also, I promise I'm not a paid spokesman, you can check my history. These supplements have really helped the softness of our girls fur, and shes starting to itch less on her paws/wrist area: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXX93TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NbZbBbHV898X5
I'm on mobile. If these are the wrong Amazon links, let me know and I'll change them when I get to my computer. I dont need referral links, just trying to help other wiggle owners.
If anyone has any better experience with supplements (fish oil/omega3/whatever) let me know. I'm open to try new stuff!
Do you use a single or double? I've been thinking about trying a double one like this https://www.amazon.com/rake-deshedding-dematting-brush-comb/dp/B01M14GWS2/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1526135435&sr=1-5&keywords=double+long+tooth+rake
Yay karma! It's all about the karma
I try to do this too when I'm able! Ok I'm gonna link 2 because I have no idea how much shipping is on one so if I win, choose whichever is cheaper for you :) #1
#2
Yep, we have a Furminator Rake that worked wonders at just getting her undercoat.
My guy, also called Rocky, looked pretty similar at 15 weeks. He's still got that long, wavy hair. As for grooming suggestions, brush, brush brush that hair! It mats SUPER easily, and there is constantly dirt and other crud stuck in his hair from playing outside, no matter how short we cut him. We try to make sure we brush our Rocky every day, but never more than 2 days without a good brushing - we have a slicker brush, a wire pin brush, and a metal comb. Spray on detangler has been our friend - they have pet safe stuff at any pet store. We also have a dematting tool. It's also in your best interest to get him used to getting his hair cut as early as possible - whether you're going to try and do it yourself or have it professionally done. We waited a bit too long with our guy, but he tolerates it really well as we make sure we always have treats for him. He really likes being brushed, when we can get him to settle down long enough to sit still for a few minutes. Good luck and have fun!
This is the dryer I have (except mine is purple to match my grooming arm and tools)
I would say it's extremely comparable to the one I use at work (which is this one and a little pricier). It definitely doesn't have as much blast as the one I use at work but it only takes maybe ten minutes longer to dry my cockers than usual.
I don't use the rake on wet hair, personally, but you can. I don't think it would be very effective (and you shouldn't use a Furminator brush on damp hair, the company advises against anything except dry brushing).
Coat Kings and their knock offs can be used on wet hair effectively though.
Like this?
Pet Grooming Tool - 2 Sided Undercoat Rake for Cats & Dogs - Safe Dematting Comb for Easy Mats & Tangles Removing - No More Nasty Shedding and Flying Hair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x0plDb2JVJDEV
hey, i just wanted to let you know that because of your comment I bought this brush https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQCWTVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has been working very well with getting Buffy's mats out. surprisingly she actually enjoys being brushed with it. so thanks for the suggestion!
> she seemingly sheds ALL the time.
This is normal and healthy, unfortunately. Nothing will stop her from shedding.
> I find her fur even when I'm outside of my apartment on my phone screen, on my laptop, in my mouth, in my eyes, on my clothing, etc.
> I found one of her hairs in the microwave (!?).
Same here. Mine is a breed known to shed less for a long haired cat, but still.
> within a day or two of changing linens, her fur is all over my covers
I changed my bedding to match my (old) cat's colors. At least it made me feel better... And also covering the linen with blankets during the day helps.
It's most likely that you are allergic to specific proteins in her saliva, rather than her fur floating around (although the fur does contain the same proteins, because cats groom with their tongue, so getting rid of the floating fur should make things better.)
I personally find furminators not very effective. They do get rid of good amount of fur, but not all the fur they get is the dead fur you wanted to get out, I think. The blade cuts off too much fur that hasn't fallen off yet, thinning out the coat in a way that I didn't want to. I have had a much better result with grooming rakes without any sharp edges.
I'm allergic to my cat, too. In my experience, daily vacuuming is a must if you want to manage the shedding. Thorough brushing at least every other day (more like, daily harvest with a rake, actually) and daily vacuuming kept my place relatively free of cat shedding, although I'm slacking off these days and the hardwood floor is turning into a carpet.
Another thing you want to do is to do an allergy testing. It turned out that I wasn't only allergic to my cat but also to common household molds and dust mites. So when I thought I was getting allergic to my cat, I was also reacting to those. Taking care of them made my symptoms better, I think. My doctor also gave me some nasal corticosteroid spray which did wonders. I was on it for about 4~5 months, I think. I haven't needed it since then.
Also, you can observe what triggers severe allergy reactions and try to tackle them first. It depends on the person and also on the cat; there had been some cats that could give me crazy amount of hives by just licking my hand once, and I actually had one cat that I could bury my face on her belly and turn out fine. With my current cat, I found out that touching my face instantly made me miserable. And the tissue boxes... always discard the first one you pop, every time you use them, because it's guaranteed that the ones exposed have some cat furs on it already.
I also got a knock off Roomba (best purchase EVER) and a couple of air purifiers with True HEPA filters. I'm not sure if the latter is helping because I've never been without them while having a cat, but the filters do get filthy so I guess they are doing something!
We picked up the Safari rake you mentioned, and I had a couple questions regarding brushing.
When I was using the rake earlier, I was going along his coat without putting pressure down onto his skin (in both in the direction of his coat). When I was going with the flow of his coat, I got pretty much all the hair, but when I went the opposite direction there were some clumps that I brushed out.
This? https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-Grooming-Tool-Undercoat-Dematting/dp/B01EZ7UOCM
Or this? https://smile.amazon.com/Well-Good-Blue-Undercoat-Comb/dp/B076DQ3YGC
That’s a very common thing with shelties actually! The Furminator isn’t actually meant for detangling hair and it’s most successful when used on clean, combed out hair.
I will use something like this to remove small tangles as well as undercoat. You just have to be suuuuuper careful with tools like that because even though it’s not razor sharp, those are still little blades at the top of the tool that can cut both the dog and your hand if you’re trying to force it through a patch of tangled hair. The best tools to use for any dog with any significant amount of hair is a slicker brush and a comb. Those two exact tools are actually things that I use every day. That particular slicker brush is incredible.
Now most groomers should be able to brush out your dog without giving her a haircut. There’s a huge difference between traditional knots (like what a poodle will get) and bunched up undercoat. They can sometimes feel similar but with the right techniques, undercoat tangles come out much easier than traditional tangles. Shelties can still get regular tangles, but it tends to be in very specific areas such as behind the ears so doing a haircut all over is entirely unnecessary. If you want a haircut that’s fine, however shaving double coated dogs is not advised. It can result in the top layer of the coat not growing back as nice. So for dogs such as shelties, I would usually suggest a nice de-shedding treatment and a scissor outline trim. Each dog is different so it’s impossible to say for certainty without feeling your individual pooch, but if your groomer says that your sheltie absolutely has to be shaved, then maybe politely seek a different opinion if that’s not what you want.
Because shelties and collies hate being combed out so much, I pretty much always start with a dryer blowout before I do anything else with them. This video shows a very extreme but good example. Most dogs don’t shed that much hair but you can see the undercoat being loosened up and blown away. This takes care of a lot of those undercoat tangles and we can go from there.
Just be honest with your groomer. We don’t judge dogs for biting. It comes with the territory of the job but a proper heads up is always appreciated.
My girl (Bernese Mountain Dog, 3) is very sensitive and HATES baths, so I do it myself to make sure she doesn't get overwhelmed / have a negative experience. We go to one of the self serve dog washes in our city and it works great. It costs $10 to use the bath, shampoo, and blowdryer. Best of all is that when she shakes and gets water everywhere, it's no biggie. I use their shampoo, but bring my own brushes:
We go once every 2 months(ish) during the winter, and 1-2x / month in the summer.
I don't trim her nails in the summer (plenty of off leash excursions to wear them down) but in the winter I use a regular clipper. She hates it, so I just try to do 1 per day as I notice them getting too long.
Do not use scissors. It is extremely unsafe. A cat's skin is very delicate and you can very easily cause a terrible puncture wound that will cost a lot of money to treat. Use a de-matting tool like this one or you could use an electric clipper if your cat will tolerate it. Let a groomer or vet do it if necessary.
You should try an undercoat rake. I don't know how but somehow it only pulls up undercoat. This is the one I use for my GSD and it works great. Plus it won't irritate their skin or otherwise cause issues like other brushes can because the bristles/pins are so thick.
For the rake, I just use something generic (and with two rows) like the one at this link. I'd think anything similar would be as effective and I've seen 'em in the PetSmart discount bins for just a few dollars, too. Even a single row is fine, but I get the impression the double catches more hair per stroke - for whatever that's worth.
In terms of the slicker brush, I use the older version of this brush, but you don't need the self-cleaning bit if you don't want to spend that much. It's just for ease of use. The ones that are shaped like this work pretty well, too.
Basically, they're just generic brushes.. use the rake thoroughly first (I usually go "against the grain") and then come by and clean up with the slicker ("with the grain"). Their coat gleams, it doesn't damage the undercoat, and it does a pretty damned good job.
I like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQCWTVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5CTDCbJ7QVAHW for my shih tzu. I spray on and work in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081XZWT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ETDCb9M8DPAQ or Tropiclean Tangle Remover, 16oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000634IUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NFTDCb0CWPPGB first. And if puppy is getting too fussy... Bzzzzzzzz go the tiny clippers. Cause it's better than a matt from a snowball.. snowballing.
I think the Sleekez is probably not the right brush - you want something like this.
Looks like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_f3C6wbXBEZ6MK
An undercoat rake and a Kong Zoom Groom (I have short-haired shepherds).
It depends on what you need. Honestly, you'll probably want a few brushes for different things. Slicker brushes are helpful in keeping the coat from getting matted (especially around the ears); a comb is good for getting out matted fur; and a regular pin brush is what I use for daily brushing. But if you are in need of a deshedding brush, I highly recommend getting an undercoat rake! It gets out at least three times as much hair as any other brush we have tried in a fraction of the time. This is the one we use: https://www.amazon.com/UUDCZ-Dematting-Professional-Long-Haired-Pets%EF%BC%88Blue%EF%BC%89/dp/B07C6ZYYL8/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1536762893&sr=8-33&keywords=undercoat+brush+for+dogs+two+side
Seriously, it was a game changer for us.
https://www.amazon.com/Safari-W6116-De-matting-Comb/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499712358&sr=8-1&keywords=matt+rake
Use this for de-matting the back end. Works great and is gentle and safe. Those blades are sharp but the rounded edge is not sharpened.
https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Safari-Undercoat-Designed/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499712440&sr=1-7&keywords=undercoat+rake
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O79wzbCFSBEAN
for de-tangling use an undercoat rake with rotating pins, and the single row static rake to pull the hair out.
https://www.amazon.com/Slicker-Dog-Cat-Grooming-Brush/dp/B00P9MZB9E/ref=sr_1_13?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499712524&sr=1-13&keywords=dog+brush+slicker
Then I'll use a slicker to make him soft and shiny.
I feel your pain. My girl Momo is a Maine coon mix and--until we moved to a warmer climate area--used to have horrible shedding periods twice a year. This won't help you with existing mats, but if you haven't tried using one of these types of combs on him once a day or so, I'd recommend it. Keeping to once daily combing stopped the mats from developing in the first place. She's not quite as old as your fella yet, but she's getting up there (12)!
For mat removal, I recommend this comb, but only for those that aren't right up against his skin. That way I can hold the clump of hair at the base of the cat's skin, so she can't feel it pull. Don't pull at the entire mat all at once--get the hooks into the middle of it or so and it should loosen and come apart bit by bit.
For mats that are closer to the skin, I honestly go in with my fingers and a pair of child safety scissors. I cut directly into the mat, then pull loose (gently) what I can.
I'm a professional dog groomer and this is what I do on clients' dogs and my own:
This overall combo of steps works far better than any one method alone.
Hope this helps!
Also, disclaimer: I'm not sponsored by any of these brands, lol. All links posted are just examples of tools you can use/specific things that work well for me.
That will be one large dog!
High Five for getting him to a great home.
I'd present the new owner with a couple of items. Rake Brush and Training book
I watched a groomer video recently and found all of these from her video
Has she tried a dematting comb? ones like the one at the link will cut the mat as well as thin the surrounding hair.
If she can, take the dog to a professional groomer and see if they have any better suggestions on detanglers and cuts
I have a jindo mix so he has the dual coat like an akita or a shiba inu but it's not as long as a golden.
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I used to brush him every day using a slicker brush, curry comb etc... but would still find TONNES of fluff balls everywhere. After reading, I saw multiple suggestions for an undercoat rake, I did some more reading and ended up purchasing one from a local pet store here (Ottawa, Ontario) and ... HO.. MAH.. GAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! His coat is incredibly soft and the amount of fluffies rolling around is minimal!!!!!!
I purchased one similar to this (not the exact one): Undercoat Rake
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Let me tell you, it's so gentle, it doesn't damage his top coat (I know the furminator can cause damage). I would HIGHLY recommend looking into this!! I use it now about once a week and then brush every other day.
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For Yu-Jin's (my Jindo) feet, I trim his nails whenever I hear clicking, but typically do a toe fluff cut once a week or he starts slipping around.
If you are comfortable clipping his thigh fuzz, you can definitely try, it might be easier having someone to control your dog while you do it! Sorry I cannot help with this, I don't need to clip more than toe fuzz!
from the Amazon listing.
Yes they are blades and if you rub your finger on them you will cut yourself.
if you want a rake that won't cut, get one of the pin style rakes