Best flat washers according to redditors

you can find these amazon or ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-1985-PTFE-coated-washers-5x8x0-5mm/dp/B0006O5HJE please buy them!

You're welcome! If brick and mortar stores don't have any, I have used these uxcell Nylon Flat Washers for M5 Screw Bolt 10mm OD 1mm Thick Clear 100PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NS83JCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jNw3DbP2D39ZA

It's a push nut. Cheap to make and quick to assemble. The ones off-the-shelf seem to be mostly hexagonal, so take care when bending the flanges back to pull it off. It's usually possible to remove and reuse it at least once but work hardening will eventually break one of the tabs.

bolts and washers can be had at any hardware store...

https://www.amazon.com/iExcell-Stainless-Internal-Socket-Screws/dp/B07FQLQCBH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=6mm+bolt&qid=1565842548&s=gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Spring-Washers-Finish-100Sets/dp/B07RY5LZV3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=6mm+bolt+lock+washer&qid=1565842634&s=gateway&sr=8-3

literally nothing special is needed

These plugs:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153104817175

These switches:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07NTQJ89N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

These gaskets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MHS5BK9?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Get a hack saw and cut the 'mushroom top' off the plug. Shove the toggle switch into the resulting pipe (I use the clean end...the slightly jagged cut end will go inside the case). Put two of the gaskets on the pipe. Slide them flush with the toggle button. Insert into the 24mm hole and tighten down with the nut. The gaskets should be on the OUTSIDE of the case and will deform a bit.

You could also use two of the nuts on the same pipe...one inside the case...one outside...if you prefer that look.

Note that for wiring the toggle switches have larger spade connectors than a Sanwa button. I had the proper connectors lying around from my Happ MAME cabinet. You may prefer to solder.

thats funny, that was my exact thought. I'm planning to do just that wit these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019O43DVA/?coliid=I1NT6XKGB3YYWK&colid=2JN7WSR0AQMMC&psc=1 or maybe these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCZ1VJL/?coliid=I3FNRESVI2YNQB&colid=4GNVW0B9GAVI&th=1

I've had issues like that in the past. I used rubber washers like these. Worked great for me.

amazon or ebay, i didnt use any other place and got everything i needed. go other places and look at total cost to get it to your door and do the math to find best price on stuff you want. dont believe everything you read on making kydex holsters its vary simple and you dont need alot of stuff to make quality pieces.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZFXIO9Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NKKJWW44UDCX
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K0M7KW8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9YAIOBDRH480
https://www.amazon.com/Kydex-Plastic-Sheets-Black-060/dp/B00HAS7JEA/ref=sr_1_4?srs=6465820011&ie=UTF8&qid=1477517843&sr=8-4&keywords=24%22+X+12%22
http://usaknifemaker.com/s-66-eyelets-premium-siska-1-4-black-100count.html
https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Black-1296-04-TWO/dp/B00LROZG8Y/ref=pd_sbs_201_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LROZG8Y&pd_rd_r=Z7AF2WJTYPJQ9HB0PT43&pd_rd_w=rzA3c&pd_rd_wg=G0Hax&psc=1&refRID=Z7AF2WJTYPJQ9HB0PT43
https://www.amazon.com/Sponge-Neoprene-Thick-54-Wide/dp/B001G4SE34/ref=sr_1_18?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485976452&sr=1-18&keywords=1%22+neoprene

ok ok you got me the eyelets i did get elsewere, other things that are really nice to have. Dremel (with atachments for detail work) sand paper 120, 600, 1000 grits for detail around edges, if you want a shiny plastic look hit the edges with the buffing wheel on dremel with a bit of turtle wax, i like the satin finish 1000grit leaves better.

heat gun from harbor freight works way better than the toaster oven ever did for me, has Hi and Low and up to 1000 degree i think. just lay down your sheet and get it nice and hot with the gun on high (750 setting) and it will work just fine, scroll saw > ban saw > dremel for cutting it out, also the cheapest option while only a bit slower than ban saw is just scoring with exacto knife and breaking it with pliers, splits clean every time and with moderate pressure you only have to go over it once. the hardest part was getting the arbor press set up and working right but that was just a bit of error on my part and not watching what the hell was going on lol :)

I swapped the bottom standoffs for my PDB to these insulating washers(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARAG7H2/) and freed up a bit of space. Maybe an idea you can use?

http://i.imgur.com/gQkAojW.png

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1kZOzbQM0QCEJ

I used these and they're the perfect size for the screws in the screw in stabilizers. They're for motherboards so this is their intended purpose.

I use the washers from the link below. If you want to pay 3 or 4 bucks more and get prime shipping click the other listings and select the one with prime. Not sure if they are the best buy they seemed to work fine for me.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/

Basic components of a pressurized CO2 system:

• Regulator -controls flow of CO2 gas into your aquarium
  
  
• CO2 tank - consistent, pressurized source of CO2
  
  
• Diffuser - breaks down CO2 gas into teeny tiny bubbles for plants to use
  
  Regulators: there are many brands and components to a regulator. I recommend a regulator with a solenoid, and a bubble counter. The solenoid allows you easily control your CO2 using an inexpensive timer, or an expensive pH controller. A bubble counter is a simple way to guess how much CO2 gas is in your aquarium. You may want to shoot for 3-4 bubbles per second depending on lighting and plants. I personally recommend the Milwaukee regulator and have used one reliably for years.
  
  CO2 tank: A 10 lb tank might last you 3-4 months before needing refilled. You can get a 20lb but they are huge and ridiculously heavy. On my 29gal, a 10lb tank lasts 6 months. Tanks ship empty and you have to find a local source to fill it with CO2. Try welding supply or home brew beer supply. You will need disposable seals too.
  
  Diffuser: This is where you have a lot of options. Ceramic diffusers are effective on small-medium tanks. CO2 reactors and DYI options using your filtration system are effective on a large size tank. I can't give any recommendations on these 2 options, sorry, hopefully someone will chime in.
  
  Other important equipment includes CO2-safe tubing, a drop checker, maybe a brass check valve if needed, and the aforementioned timer. Hit me up if you would like recommendations for these items.
  

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Milwaukee regulator

disposable seals

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

My suggestion:

This + rubber cement + your tokens

They turn out great. I have a whole box of these things. Your local hardware store carries the washers too. Also, 2" washers work just as well for large tokens. I love making these, and my players love playing with them.

> I have these items, kraken x72,

The Kraken x72 should come with 12 6-32x30mm screws, 12 6-32x5mm screws, and 24 washers. As long as you bought it new you shouldn't need to buy anything else.

If you ever need more hardware, pretty much all standard AIOs and all standard fans will use the same stuff:6-32 30mm screws and no.6 washers.

Here is the mobile version of your link

You could try placing sorbothane pads under the feet to isolate vibration between the TT and the cabinet. You could also buy bigger pads with a higher durometer rating to go under the cabinet itself.

Well cool man, thanks for the help. I ended up going with these : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042UBWCE/ref=mp_s_a_4?pi=75x62&qid=1345744765&sr=8-4

lol. I agree with the urgency. it's imo an unbearable issue for edc!
the feedback I've gotten has been positive from folks who have bought it: link

if you want a slightly cheaper alternative others have just glued some washers onto the tail

One inch washers + sticker paper + printer = good looking, cheap, solid, & reusable tokens.

Oh I was thinking maybe there were washers like this but suited for buttons. Someone on Facebook recommended this so I'm going to see if those will work

I wouldn't call it hard, tedious for sure. There are something like 20+ screws and mounting points that need to be replaced. If you're comfortable building a PC and applying thermal compounds then you'll be fine here. Just plan on a couple hours of work.

I would recommend a screwdriver kit similar to this. It'll pay dividends well beyond just this install.

Also, might want some nylon washers to raise the shroud away from the hybrid fan. Without these the fan can make contact against the shroud if you run it at high speeds. I have not really had this problem as my temps never get above 45 to 50 degrees at load, but be aware it can happen and its annoying.

Amazon often has such things:

http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3294-Stainless-Phillips/dp/B00HYM0YM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1449498174&sr=8-6&keywords=6-32+1-1%2F4

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Washer-Black-Finish-B18-22-1/dp/B009OJHM22/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449498264&sr=8-2&keywords=%236+washer

That's why I love 5/3/1! My OHP progress definitely isn't linear and I get stuck at/go up and down around the same 1+ for forever, but it's so satisfying to finally break through.

Have you considered bringing your own fractional weights or some washers and making your OHP programming calculations round to the nearest lb/half lb/whatever? I have washers because they used to be wayyyy cheaper than the fractional weights. TBH I'm too lazy to carry them to the gym, but when I was using them they were pretty helpful in working up my OHP in smaller increments.

So I have a weird little idea for a craft project. I play Dungeons and Dragons but I'm too cheap for miniatures, so I've been looking into replacements.

My idea is basically to make discs/tokens out of neoprene and small magnets, with one side having something that could be drawn on and is either easily erasable or replaceable. The neoprene and magnets are specifically to give each token some weight and friction, so they can't be knocked around too much accidentally.

I've done a little research and I've found some of the materials I'd need:

These magnets are pretty much exactly what I'm looking for, though I'm not exactly sure how strong they are. I'd like for them to be strong enough to, say, stick to a fridge with about a 1/16th of an inch of neoprene between the two.

Then, I can use a pair of these neoprene washers to cover the outside of the magnet. The size isn't a perfect match to the magnet, but I've looked and this is about as close as I can get without having to buy entire sheets of neoprene and cut out the discs/rings I need myself. The magnets have a 10mm diameter, which leaves ~1.35mm around the outside of the magnet, which I suppose I could fill with...tape? There'd also be space above and below the magnet, but I'm not worried about 7/40ths of a millimeter.

I'll get another set of washers with a smaller inner diameter (but the same 1 inch outer diameter) to use as the bottoms of the tokens, just so the magnet isn't visible.

As far as the drawing surface, I'm not sure. I want it to be pretty solid, so I'm thinking I could use this stuff with these applied over top so I can get the 'easily reusable' part down. Still not entirely sure, but that seems like a reasonable solution.

I have no idea what sort of adhesive to use. Pretty big part of it, but I've never done anything like this before.

In the end, it'd look something like this. Clocks in at about $85 (most of it being the washers), but that'd get me about 100 tokens. I don't think I could use 100 tokens, but I think I could find people interested in them.

I think you mean motherboard standoff. Did you forgot to use a paper [red] washer between the screw and motherboard?

Years ago I would cut out my own from expired credit cards

I would suggest if you use screw in stabs to use a set of paper washers. I used the following with my build. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARADX88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stop's them from shorting out the board. Its not always a issue but having to desolder ever switch makes 7 bucks worth the piece of mind.

oops they're not plastic

You can probaly get these at most hardware stores.

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos%C2%AE-Pieces-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B00H96MWHC

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

If they sell out before you order them, I could send you some of mine.