http://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-CD100A-Combustible/dp/B000HHTY7Q

You are one lucky person... like super, buy a lottery ticket today, lucky SOB....

I looked online and there are alarms like this for natural gas... maybe get one?

Radon is odorless and tasteless, so you'll need a specialized kit to detect it:

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-RD1-Radon-Test/dp/B00002N83E

Also, for the rich but paranoid, you can actually purchase something called a "multi gas detector" that can detect concentrations of oxygen (mol% O2), carbon monoxide (ppm CO), flammable gas (% LEL), and hydrogen sulfide (ppm H2S). Example. They require regular calibration against test gas samples and last only a few years before requiring replacement. They're used in mining and oil & gas operations where knowing these gas concentrations is literally vitally important. Ask one of your mining / power plant / municipal wastewater / oil & gas friends about where to get one.

> I'll be setting an alarm to check the burners after their bed time each night from now on... I'm going to be losing sleep over this either way.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Propane-Natural-Detector-Sensitivity-Detection/dp/B07KRJS5TC/ref=zg_bs_7491102011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AWC474H5VVQT8KKJ0Y8S

I would like to add that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking.

http://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/substances/radon/radon-fact-sheet

Please don't mess around with Radon. My wife's grandmother had lung cancer and never smoked a day in her life. It wasn't until years later when her grandfather developed spots on his lungs that the house was tested off the charts.


Here is a link for a very inexpensive test kit First Alert RD1 Radon Gas Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N83E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_slbGwbSTJS17T

Well of all the things... a similar issue was posted recently for a different vehicle, after that owner checked all possibilities. I'll paste my reply here, to keep this thread self-contained:

This might call for the next step: a robotic "nose":

https://www.amazon.com/Propane-Detection-Hydrogen-Atomic-Market/dp/B0106NHGRK/

This is just one example of a chemical sensor that outputs a voltage based on the hydrocarbon concentration in the air. A low-cost one.

For this particular sensor, for example, you'd hook it up to a 5V power supply (Such as from a USB charger. Or even a battery pack with 3 alkaline cells that puts out 4.8 V) Then you'd connect a multimeter to the sensor's analog output pin to measure the sensor's output voltage.

Ambient air might show as roughly 0.4 V output, or thereabouts. Slight fumes from gasoline would show as a higher reading. Putting the sensor over a gas tank filler neck, with cap removed, might show readings above 2 V.

To get really location-specific readings, you can get a length of hose, and a small DC fan to pull air through the hose to the sensor. That way the sensor only reacts to gasoline vapor wherever you put the hose end.

A robot elephant's trunk, sniffing and bending around. What a time to be alive

After I did an initial mail in test and got 1.9 as a result, I was curious to see how my continuing encapsulation would change things (if any).

Been very happy with this little thing (kept in my daughters bedroom):

https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Detector-Airthings-223-Lightweight/dp/B00H2VOSP8

I have a meter, but don't think that should be part of the cost for the average person. You get more accurate results by buying a test kit and sending it in once a year. I'd send mine in during the dead of winter when levels tend to peak. Costs about $5/test.

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-RD1-Radon-Test/dp/B00002N83E?th=1&psc=1

I just sent in one of the tests, it's a lot cheaper to do it yourself. The previous owner didn't smoke and died of lung cancer, I figured for <$20 it's worth the piece of mind.

http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-RD1-Radon-Test/dp/B00002N83E

This might be worth it for continuous monitoring: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VOSP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tj3yCbQZVXJR2

Get radon test kit (won't break the bank-they can be had for $30 normally and are often on sale) and make sure that the basement doesn't have elevated levels before deciding to occupy it for any extended time.

Radon can be dealt with (mitigation strategies vary with how high the concentration is) so it isn't the end of the world if it is present-just good to know what levels so you can decide how to proceed.

Pallets are often just raw wood (some are treated too) and raw wood in a basement can easily lead to mold/mildew issues.

Anytime wood contacts concrete/masonry it should be pressure treated wood that is rated for contact (most municipal codes require this-some codes will allow a naturally rot resistant wood like cedar).

There are many different types of pressure treated wood.

Some are relatively safe for indoor use, others less so-so check the label/manufacturer data sheet to determine appropriate materials for your project.

The really toxic treatments are now either banned (here in the US anyhow) or are only allowed for rail or other specialized industry use and not sold to the general public.

Oh, I hear you - I'm in Indiana. Keeping them open for a couple hours for the first week is to lower your current high level. Afterwards, you should only need to open a window briefly (I usually do 15m or so) every day or two to keep levels low.

I've got one of these meters: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2VOSP8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep an eye on it and try to keep my levels below 3. Anytime it creeps up, I crack my window until it goes back down. It's a bit of a hefty initial investment of $200 for the meter, but it's so worth it when compared with the expensive systems.

If you've slept in the basement below the bedroom you're probably good.

If you're really worried you could test for it (it's cheap): First Alert RD1 Radon Gas Test Kit https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00002N83E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1nK6BbM8JQASG But I wouldn't. It's usually done when you purchase the house as part of the inspection.

Yep. The long term average is 2.81 pCi but every now and then i see the 1 day average spike to 6 pCi which makes me nervous.

I've used this little guy for the last year or so...

https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Airthings-Radon-Detector-version/dp/B00H2VOSP8/

Order one of these you really should not live anywhere without one anyways.

If you want a Radon monitor that doesn't look like it was designed in the 1980s, it's a good deal.

Direct link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Detector-Airthings-223-Lightweight/dp/B00H2VOSP8

$30, Natural Gas Leak Detector Detection Alarm:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PWC6V3Q/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_kvJ5CbDY2N317


Read instructions for yourself but natural gas is lighter than air (it rises), so placement of the detector is important.

To add to this, don't pay $230 for a 3-day test. First off, it's not an accurate picture, radon levels can fluctuate a lot in 3 days. Second, it's a complete rip off, you can buy your own digital meter for $250.

This radon detector, Corentium home by Airthings Radon Gas Detector, is suppose to be the best consumer grade detector device sold on Amazon. They occasionally go on sale. I've bought it for $180 a month ago. Check it out if you don't want to wait for the screening kit.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00H30TLPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get a radon detector from Amazon and find out how well it works .

Usually a sump piit needs a pump to mitigate water and a pump. Is part of that. Usually the weeping tile goes into the pit so water gets pumped. The whole thing could be encapsulated for radon mitigation.

I use this one in my basement:

Corentium Home Radon Detector by Airthings 223 Portable, Lightweight, Easy-to-Use, (3) AAA Battery Operated, USA Version, pCi/L

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VOSP8

The radon detector that they loan out is currently on sale at Amazon for $150, it's listed as $100 off.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00H30TLPA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AN7IPYCYI0F10&psc=1

I think it's mostly about making damn sure that you don't have a problem. It can take short term and long term averages, so you can have the peace of mind that you don't have a problem.

If you look on Amazon, the same company (Corentium) sells a 4.6 star-rating radon monitor with a display for $199.. For basically the same price, you can get their newer Wave detector, which is the link I posted (CES17 coupon code gets you 15% off, but shipping is $25). If you live in an area where Radon is a problem, and you're also the kind of person that is willing to spend $100 on a smoke detector (i.e. Nest Protect) or $200-$250 on a thermostat (e.g. Nest or Ecobee3), then I guess this is for you! I just bought one without hesitation (ok, I hesitated because I was shocked at the shipping charge, but then saw that their company is in Norway).

Plus, typical radon tests are a one-time use thing, cost about $14, and only tell you what the levels were for a 2-3 day time period. Plus, you really should be testing every year or two, and if, for instance, you have family that has basements then you can lend it out to them. So in the long run, the cost may be on par with, or cheaper, than buying the one time use tests.

Anyways, that's my thoughts.

Agree, inspect the heat exchanger as best as possible. Jumper limits until you can identify where the fault it occurring, let the system run and use a CO detector (similar to https://www.amazon.com/Testo-0632-3173-Ambient-Resolution/dp/B009NY8SWG/ref=pd_lpo_60_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J5TQ46WJ0K0S4Q16ZFHF ) as close to the supply leaving the unit as possible. Post results.

I've lived in the Morgan Grants area for almost 10 years & tested for it. Never had an issue. You should get it tested before you buy. Even if you do have an issue with it, there's ways to fix it.

http://ottawa.ca/en/residents/public-health/healthy-living/radon-your-home

http://www.amazon.ca/Kidde-442020-Radon-Detection-Test/dp/B000IHSWR8

Get a Radon test. In our area (the east coast) radon is a fact of life. the test cost just a few dollars

https://www.amazon.com/Radon-Test-Kit-Home-Shipping/dp/B07RJZDSX7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=radon&qid=1566995477&s=gateway&sr=8-4

$50

This is the one my company uses when an H2S detecctor is insufficent. It's about $500 give or take where you get it.

https://www.amazon.com/Gas-Technologies-MGC-S-Multi-Monitor/dp/B06ZZDYJ61

Radon can accumulate in any enclosed space. Your garage I'm assuming is enclosed, so yes, it can. How much and at what level is best determined by a radon test kit. They are cheap, your health, even your life is priceless.

https://www.amazon.com/Radon-Test-Kit-Home-Shipping/dp/B07RJZDSX7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=CjwKCAjw-vjqBRA6EiwAe8TCk9xVoqSP-rJ-XzU87Pso-xPK30_Jll_6ht40Ypb7MHW_9b8Up9HNzhoChQgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=177787686362&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9013523&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17691650618873221775&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-19231071&hydadcr=1390_9901975&keywords=radon+test+kit&qid=1566505875&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzREVGWU1BNkJQMk1PJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTk0MTc0MVRJMFFJMU00RkpMUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTMwMzI3M1A3NU5NVzZPSDIxUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

price history

> just get testing done once or twice a year when we test the well water.

Radon is usually highest in winter. I hope you're testing then. Alternatively, get one of these. I'm happy with mine.

I'm cheap, I ended up buying the Corentium detector:

https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Detector-Airthings-223-Lightweight/dp/B00H2VOSP8

My logic was that radon tests are not most helpful as a one-time thing. You probably want to run at least one short term test, then possibly a long term test. You'll want testing during and after your radon system is installed (especially if you DIY, which I did). Don't forget that you also likely want to test in different locations as well. Depending on your layout, there may not be an obvious best/lowest location. I had a friend who tested low in his crawlspace, but over the partial slab had an 18.

Long term, rather than spending $20-$30 per test (which adds up fast and discourages testing) I can test literally as many times as I want, for as long as I want, in as many places as I want.

And now I have it in a hallway, where I can check on it with a glance when I walk by and could spot any issues.

I got myself this electronic device. Reviews appear good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VOSP8

Every plant/factory worker's standard

Those thermometers are great for what they are. But they only measure temps up to about 258°F. While thats exactly the temp were looking for when smoking, if we go over, then we dont really know by how much. I need a good probe for temps up to 500°F (though I dont plan to get that high very often).

The Maverick probes are readymade for the job... and yes they are more expensive, but there aren't many options with a range that high that aren't thermocouples.

As for the rest... thats a lot for me to think about.

Hopefully we can manage the heat well enough by controlling the oxygen supply. Though I like the coil idea, it may be overkill for this kind of project.

I did buy a smoke sensor... not sure what it can show me, but I'm curious if I can use it to help maintain smoke levels. If not, I have a smoke density sensor I designed for a completely different purpose many years ago... (uses a photo resistor and a red led).

Co2 or O2 sensor would be cool... may be able to get a used one from a junk yard. But again, maybe overkill.

I'm really just doing this so I can learn more about the physics of charcoal cooking and smoking... but its also an excuse to play with my Arduino.

Das günstigste und zuverlässigste wenn man keine zwei linken Hände hat: Selber machen. Ist nicht viel dabei.

Besonders den Wärmetauscher (2:49) einfach mit einem groben Pinsel und Druckluft (macht viel Sauerei weil der Staub dann überall hinfliegt) oder Staubsauger gut abpinseln. Auch sonst alles gut abpinseln (v.a. im Abgasbereich oberhalb des WT). Den Brenner (3:05) kann man normalerweise leicht ausbauen, den einfach unter fließendem Wasser mit einer Bürste reinigen, dann gut trocknen lassen und wieder einbauen. Hier ist das einzige worauf man aufpassen sollte, dass der Gasanschluss wieder dicht ist. Lässt sich mit sowas oder auch sowas überprüfen.

Aufwand: ca. 30 Minuten und die Therme hat wieder 0 CO.

https://www.amazon.com/Symbion-Portable-Propane-Natural-Detector/dp/B0041OHED2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496366456&sr=8-2&keywords=propane+sniffer

I got mine off the shelf at a local home improvement store. Try Home Depot or a plumbing supply store, too. Good luck!

EDIT: It doesn't seem to get very good reviews, though

a sniffer?

I don’t know your unit but it can be two different detectors, LP gas detector and separate CO2 or a combined CO2 detector. Not sure which is your setup.

If it is the separate CO2, replace the battery. If it a combo LP/CO2 or actually the dedicated LP detector then you remove it off the wall (slide up) and cut the wires. It has to be hardwired to meet code.

Would something like this be okay?