Best gun cloths according to redditors

I use a gun cloth like this.

Or Remington wipes.

I make sure they are all oiled, then put them in my wood gun cabinet with 10 desiccant packs. I recharge the packs every two weeks, and replace them every 3 months. I also have a Birchwood gun and reel cloth that I use to wipe them down anytime I handle them.


http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Silicone-Reel-Cloth/dp/B0002IKAU0

Edit: If you don't have a cabinet, keep an eye on Craigslist and the like. I found my current cabinet for 50 bucks.

Oh, yea! Happy to see some additional Piretti representation on here; used my Matera 2 all this season and I loved it. It looks like a completely different putter depending on the light you're playing in and the 3 lions on that back emit an orange "aura".

I looked this up quite a bit here and GolfWrx, some folks suggested baby oil but most steered towards this:
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Shot-Gun-Care-Silicone/dp/B001F0NQF0/ref=pd_sim_200_20

Scotty sells something similar but its overpriced especially when you add it to the cart for shipping...
https://www.scottycameron.com/store/product.aspx?zpid=572

I keep one in my trunk and one in my garage so I can either wipe it down right after the round once a week or when I get home. Not messy and goes right back in the zip lock back it came in. After a season of use, the finish is still stunning. I do enjoy the eye rolls and ball busting I get when I say "give me a minute, I need to butter my putter" to my playing group before we load the car. It is also more acceptable to say you are using a gun clothe versus baby oil :)

I would heed /u/2dadjokes4u's advice in being attentive to green aeration. I had a pretty far lag put and my ball has some grains of sand on it and when I hit it, I wound up nicking the face a little. Thankfully I heeled it a bit and its hidden inside the "Piretti" on the face. Barely noticeable to anyone but me but I am much more aware and bag my back up when aeration season begins. Fertilization isn't bad as long as you wipe it down with a damp rag, dry it, then wipe it down with the silicon rag.

I think Tuf cloths work well with D2. I'm not sure if you would want to cut food with that, but you could always use food grade mineral oil as well.

>WWII era rifle with a wood stock

Really any wooden stock/wood should be kept inside/temperature controlled. If you are unable to secure wooden/more sensitive firearms indoors (you totally can, even if its disassembling them but I get personal preference) you would do better to disassemble the firearm keeping the wood indoors and the receiver/action (metal) would be fine in the safe

As the other user mentions, humidity/moisture will be the issue. This isn't inherently produced in the cold so thats not the problem, what can become a problem is temperature fluctuations can create humidity/moisture build up resulting in moisture on the firearms - it sounds like you're going to be storing these unused for some time so that is something to consider, you can purchase a rechargeable dehumidifier like one of these to throw into the safe and recharge every month or so to prevent this from happening.

If you plan on not using certain or all of the guns for a long time you might also want to consider rubbing them down with a silicone cloth(this can be used on any part of the gun even stocks/wood) which will prevent moisture from attacking the metal/absorbing into the wood.

Depending on what kind of plastic/synthetic stocks extreme cold could weaken them over time but I don't believe it will be a major factor. Electronics (sights, lasers etc.) don't typically hold up to extended cold but if there ok-good quality you should be fine.

Personally my vote would be to get a safe in a more temperature controlled location sometime in the future but I also have a lot of firearms I wouldn't want to keep exposed like that, for the short term (one winter) you should be fine.

TL:DR

I use a birchwood casey lead remover
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Remover-Polishing-6-Inch/dp/B00AU67BEM

But I think they are all the same
https://www.amazon.com/Kleenbore-Gun-Care-Lead-Cloth/dp/B002IEIDG4

You can also use flitz, Hoppes 9 and a brass brush or a few other ways to scrub them off but I find the Lead remover cloths are the easiest method. Be careful using a scotchbrite pad as another user suggested unless you gun is Matte finish it will end up matte finish wherever the scotchbrite pad gets rubbed.

What I do is get a Tuf-Cloth and wipe down the blade before you put it away

Some rust prevention tests can be found here and here so you can see what works best.

standard oils and cleaners that you would regularly use, but if it's really stubborn like the cylinder gap, you can use a lead free cloth

http://www.amazon.com/Kleenbore-Gun-Care-Lead-Cloth/dp/B002IEIDG4

Smells funky and wont come off for days so use gloves

those are normal carbon deposits, and can be removed with something like Birchwood Casey Lead Remover or Kleen Bore Lead Away cloths, meant specifically to take carbon deposits out of stainless steel (don't use on blued guns; it'll chemically remove the bluing).

Interesting that your gun has a color-case-hardened hammer; the 686 no-dash, -1s, -2s, and -3s all had silver-colored flash-chromed hammers (and triggers, like yours). The 686-4s and onward had color-case-hardened hammers. It's likely that your gun's hammer was replaced in its past.

Actually, now that I look a little closer, it appears that the hammer is a modified (and rather rare) L-frame target hammer - would have come with a wider and longer spur than the standard hammer. Yours appears to have been somewhat shortened and narrowed a little (perhaps to work with the Pachmayr Gripper grips that are installed on the gun, and perhaps the previous owner liked having a standard-width-but-not-standard-length hammer spur), but the spur is still larger than the standard L-frame hammer. That would explain why the hammer is color-case-hardened: I don't think I've ever seen an L-frame target hammer in flash-chromed finish.

Yeah, seriously. Most everything on that list is cheaper or the same price if you already have Prime. Is OP having a clearance sale at their LGS or something? Can OP guarantee 2-day shipping?

EDIT: in case OP runs out

AR15

AK47

Bigger Remington 870

1911 #1

1911 #2

M92

Hi-Power

Glock

USP

P220

P226

P229

M&P

XD

XDm

I use Tuf-Cloth. Its a lint-free cloth soaked in oil/silicone that is non-greasy and doesn't attract dirt. It also prevents rust. I use it on my firearms and knives. The stuff work wonders. At only $8, this product is a great deal. I have had the same cloth for about a year and it's still good.

EDIT: grammar

I just did this the other day after watching the hickok45 video. Here's what I bought:

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz - $8.99 (http://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Oil-Aerosol-spray/dp/B004ERKCIA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

UTG 9MM Pistol Cleaning Kit - $9.80 (http://www.amazon.com/UTG-9MM-Pistol-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B002ZJ1364?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02)

The Professional's Choice Pistol/Rifle Cotton Flannel 2 3/4-Inch Round Gun Cleaning Patches (120-Pack), .38/.357-Calibre/9mm/10mm - $4.49 (http://www.amazon.com/Professionals-Choice-Cleaning-120-Pack-357-Calibre/dp/B005TJWQ4A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02)

The Patches and actual cleaning kit showed up today. Kit seems to be decent for what it costs. Ballistol will be here on Wednesday. I think the Patches require that you spend $25 (add-on item) so you may have to add something else to get up to the price to get them. Or you can just get a bigger package of them.

I would definitely recommend wiping the blades down with oil or some other rust resistant product such as a TufCloth. Probably couldn't hurt to throw a desiccant of some sort into the cabinet/drawer/wherever you store your gear to soak up the moisture out of the air.

This, or this, works wonders on lead removal on the end of the cylinder. Only use them on stainless steel, though, as they will remove bluing.

BTW, I carried that exact gun as an agency provided duty gun for about 15 years. Traded it in for a S&W 6906 when we transitioned to those. Wish I had kept the 64, it was the sweetest shooting gun I ever used.

Sigh ...

I hate the screw together rods, they are small, but prone to bending/breaking and dont always stay screwed together when spinning in the the rifling. Give me a one piece rod, high quality brass jags.

Liquids I use are the standard hoppes and then Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner and an array of oils. I use a silicone gun rag for the exposed metal.

Silicone Gun Cloth:
http://amzn.com/B0002IKAU0

One Piece Rod:
http://amzn.com/B000BY56FO

The best Bore cleaner I have ever found:
http://amzn.com/B0000D94RU

In my experience, as long as you keep it dry, and oiled, you should be fine. Keeping it clean would be good too, but I had a RAT 7 with tree gunk all over the blade in storage for a few months, and it still seems to be going strong. I use this, and it seems to work very well.

Had it. It was okay. I highly prefer a TekMat for a similar price.

$11 - Slightly smaller - 1911 handgun

$20 - Full keyboard size - AR15 Rifle

Edit - They also make those for many other guns. I have the MP-5 at work and the Desert eagle at home.

https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Silicone-Reel-Cloth/dp/B000VYL3EM

I get the same problem in GA with humidity. this with a medium bristle tooth brush over all stainless steel surfaces and then wipe it down with a silicon cloth like this one to prevent more rust.

Works like a charm.

I like a man/woman who speaks my language.

Enjoy:

Rod

Brass Jags

Patches

Clothes

I was using gun oil to prevent corrosion of my steel. Another poster here suggested that might be a bad idea. After a lot of searching and reading pretty much every thread on the topic on B&B and SRP (there are several in the archives), I decided NOT to oil my razor at all, as the general consensus is that oils can do more harm than good. For those who do choose to oil their blades, mineral oil or non-corrosive gun oils are the most popular choices.

Now, instead of oiling, I wipe it down with a TUF-cloth and store my razors inside a silicone gun sleeve in a drawer with a small rechargeable silica dehumidifying canister. Probably overkill protection, but it's easier than oiling and I feel much better protected with a total long term investment of $22.

So, steel care is a two part process - sealing and maintaining. :)

Sealing:

First off, remove all the oil, dirt, and other chemicals from the metal. The easiest way to do this is brake cleaner fluid. If you've never worked with this before - don't do it in your tub or sink, it will remove everything, including the cosmetic liners on those surfaces. :p

Second - coat the entire metal in your sealing material. Here is a comprehensive comparison of various metal care products, but the short version is: Use WD-40 Specialist: Silicone.

Because we beat on our armor, that silicone seal will get chipped and removed in places. So the second step.

Maintaining:

After each practice, wipe your armor down with a silicone impregnated rag. These vary in quality a LOT. I use this one.

About once every 6-9 months, you'll want to completely redo your sealing process as above. Exactly how often depends on how often you're using your stuff and what kind of climate you live in.

Please, for the love of god, don't listen to the people who advocate olive oil or other "period" techniques. Firstly - the era of modern material sciences can do a lot better than the period techniques did and secondly - oils go rancid. 4 times now, I've been handed a piece of steel to inspect that was so rancid smelling I had to ask the fighter to clean it before letting it touch other people's garb.

Gun mat
http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G

Bore snake
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24002V-BoreSnake-Revolver-Cleaner/dp/B003ITDPXE

Ammo

http://www.amazon.com/M-Pro-Sided-Tactical-Cleaning-Black/dp/B002CTCFTQ/ref=sr_1_48?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410762717&sr=1-48&keywords=cleaning+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-BoreSnake-Cleaner-Choose-Caliber/dp/B004DPJPV8/ref=pd_sim_sg_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=05M04WYT0TVAT23E7G6E

http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Micro-Tactical-Folder/dp/B006YBW82C/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410763379&sr=1-5&keywords=cold+steel+lawman

http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-American-Lawman-Handle/dp/B0015U73I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-1&keywords=cold+steel+law+man

http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-831548-Rebar-w-Standard/dp/B005KSWIBQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764666&sr=1-2&keywords=leatherman+rebar

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WEG8P0/ref=twister_B007QOEXNI

http://www.amazon.com/Neutron-2C-Flood-Cree-Flashlight/dp/B004UH12W4/ref=sr_1_20?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764914&sr=1-20&keywords=thrunite

http://www.amazon.com/Olight-Tactcial-Flashlight-Batteries-Lumentac/dp/B00KANR6KO/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764992&sr=1-10&keywords=olight+m10

http://www.amazon.com/Winchester-Deluxe-Shooters-Bag-Holds/dp/B00EQ7U3KU/ref=sr_1_20?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410763558&sr=1-20&keywords=range+bag

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-5&keywords=gun+mat

http://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-8760-Stainless-Magnetic/dp/B000OUZCUE/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764144&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=magnet+parts+bowl

Knives, cleaning gear, and flashlights are never unwelcome gifts for gun/weapon nerds. I linked you a bunch of decent tools that would make great gift ideas. Some more affordable than others. Get him a couple really nice things for like 40-50 each or a bunch of little affordable things and toss them in a 20 dollar range bag.

$70 US, G502 is a solid choice and many others here have taken the plunge and loved it, myself included. Pick up the spectrum if you like rgb but it's the same price as the core and has the exact same specs outside of lighting.

I use a tekmat handgun cleaning mat as a mousepad, it works well for an ultrawide and 16:9 side by side at 400 dpi

It's carbon staining and a bit of a pain to remove, doesn't impact function at all.

I've used a lead cleaning cloth with good success, but I usually just leave it stained because I'm lazy.

If you're on a budget:

• Kershaw TX Tool - disassembly and service.
  
• Tuf Cloth - cleaning and protecting.
  
• Knife Pivot Lube - lubricant (folding knives).
  
• Lansky Turn Box - maintaining factory edge.

I think a Tuf-Cloth may help. Knife and gun guys use it to protect their carbon steels. Its also used by museums to protect items that are prone to rust. The product in the cloth creates an invisible barrier from the elements. http://www.amazon.com/TUF-CLOTH-12-Resealable-Pouch/dp/B000E892Z2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1YH1ZRQYXJWUH&coliid=I4CVG2QL61RXU

Edit: Oh and congrats!!!!!!

I just bought one too! I was researching upkeep and it seems like the three big things are:

• Learning how to sharpen on a cheap blade (I bought an Opinel 8 for this)
  
• Protection from rust
  
• Lubrication for folders
  
  With that said, has anyone ever used TUF CLOTH for cleaning and blade maintenance? I bought a fixed blade ESEE and that is what they recommend so I figured I could use it on all blades correct?

I keep these everywhere, my safe, range bag, glove box, makes wiping down super easy and second nature..

https://www.amazon.com/d/Sports-Outdoors/Sentry-Solutions-Marine-TUF-CLOTH-Stop/B017C220LA

Is this the one? https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Rust-Lead-Remover-Cloth/dp/B0000C53AJ

It won't damage the finish that hasn't rusted yet?

This should do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VYL3EM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522800448&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=silicon+cloths+for+gun+cleaning&dpPl=1&dpID=41snvU2BKDL&ref=plSrch

Ballistol, Cleaning Patches, Brushes, Barrel Brush, and an extra Cleaning Rod

Just got a Ruger Redhawk about a month ago, was looking for something to clean the stainless with and found this. Be sure and get the ones that say Kleenbore. There are others out there that dont work as well from what I have heard. That and Hoppe's No 9 and CLP will clean and lube just about everything I own.

As far as ammo is concerned, it depends what he shoots - $60 is probably not going to get you much although I'm sure he'd appreciate it.

Ammo can "hamper" full of of cleaning supplies, gun socks & cleaning mats?

e.g.
http://www.amazon.com/Tipton-Polymer-Gun-Cleaning-Picks/dp/B0048KGFHU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Knit-Gun-Sock/dp/B00014ZY0Q

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24020-BoreSnake-Cleaner-Caliber/dp/B0014VQ6TI

http://www.amazon.com/MTM-AC-11-Ammo-Can/dp/B003ISKM9K

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B0036N474S

Leave the copper colored factory grease on the slide until it's gone. Hit up the range with a few hundred rounds. Some people clean the gun before firing. I just lubed the slide a little and fired 300 rounds before my first cleaning.

Start here: https://youtu.be/DZf4mUM10Vc

• buy this: Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ERKCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gVErxbHNPR5KC
  
  
• I also use this in my range bag: Break Free CLP-PS Precision Shooter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050GWAVG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_AWErxb1E47QD6
  
• Buy these or cheap tooth brushes: 10-Piece Double-Ended Gun Cleaning Brush Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CWDPF6W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DXErxbM5DDJWS
  
  For deeper cleaning watch this: https://youtu.be/7VTIqAMPOco
  
  
• You'll need this (I keep one in my cleaning kit and one in my range bag): Glock GT03374 Disassembly Takedown Tool Punch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VX2M2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_VYErxbRWCJDBW
  
  These: The Professional's Choice Pistol/Rifle Cotton Flannel 2 1/2-Inch Square Gun Cleaning Patches (120-Pack), .38/.357-Calibre/9mm/10mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MY45Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_I0Erxb77YVTWA
  
  -This: UTG 9MM Pistol Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZJ1364/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_j1Erxb6MQEHNV
  
  
• I bought these too: Gun Cleaning Set with 3 Brushes & 2 Double-Ended Picks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HD0R86/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_62Erxb0DYJ7A8
  
  
  Sorry for the long links I'm on mobile and bored at the moment. There are more updated and thorough videos if you search YouTube, but I enjoy listening to Hickok45's. Hope this helps.

for reference this works a charm

Tuf-Cloth man. I use it on my carry knives. Protects from dust, dirt, humidity, rain, general environmental shit.

Amazon: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-Cleaning-Waterproof-Instructions-Armorers/dp/B0036N9A3G&ved=2ahUKEwjCwMm-spzaAhUKjVQKHd9wAxcQFjAAegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw3JQynD4HVdYaspM9roAVsZ

https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G/ref=pd_sim_200_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C87RX0S784RCWTW8Z4QE

https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B003JOLCAG/ref=pd_sim_200_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S9E1VS89M6Z76BJR3GR6

As a past and present owner of alot of ugly guns don't stress this to much. It's just surface rust so the gun will work fine for years to come. As mentioned you do want to scrub it off as soon as possible. Ideally you've got a local smith who can bead blast it with glass or alu-oxide and then hit it with KG, Duracoat, or something similar. That barrel will never be blued again.

If you don't live in Hawaii then I'm going to guess that it was hot out and you have sweaty hands. Get a Silicone cloth - https://www.amazon.ca/Hoppes-No-Silicone-Reel-Cloth/dp/B000VYL3EM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502229620&sr=8-2&keywords=silicone+cloth you can find them most anywhere. After you're finished shooting give your guns a quick wipe down. Also any time you take them out of the safe to fondle them. That should stop this from happening again in the future.

Just to note. Solvent is like soap. You use it to help get the dirt and crud off. After that you moisturize so you don't get dry skin: ie - a preservative. You don't need anything fancy, 3 in 1, Hoppe's, Rem, what ever is at your lgs or Cambodian Tire will do.

If he has a super popular handgun aka a Glock or 1911 you can get like part sheet let me find an example real quick

https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-Gun-Cleaning-Mat-1911/dp/B0036N9A3G

something like that might work for you. I want one Atleast

I will say, having owned several Stack-On cabinets, you really have to be aware of what you're getting when you buy them.

For starters, they just categorically will not keep someone out if they've got even a minute and the mind to do so. I pried open the door of one with my bare hands in less than a minute after the lock broke (more on that in a second.) If you lack my chad-like physique, a screwdriver (or hell even probably just a pen) would do the same job no problem.

They are also one step short of an actual cage in terms of airflow. If you want something that's even remotely air tight or you're concerned about moisture, a Stack-On cabinet has shit load of holes in it. I took Sugru and patched the majority of them and that worked okay but realistically it needs a lot of work if you're going to keep it even moderately air tight.

The locks are the cheapest of the cheap. The first two cabinets I had failed because the lock just fell apart. They're made of some egregiously terrible pot metal. You can upgrade them and, if you can find the right type of lock, it's relatively simple to do but if the lock fails while the locking bars are engaged you will almost certainly have to bend the door open to even get at the contents of the locker and at that point it's pretty much toast.

What worked pretty well for me was getting one of those key safes and just bolting it to the outside of the locker. The key safe is far more resistant to fuckery than the locker is and anyone determined to get into the locker is going to bypass the key safe entirely and just yank the door open.

This is basically just a locker to keep kids and guests away from guns and to keep things in the same relative space. Do not count on it to protect your shit during a burglary because there's very little you can do to it that's going to prevent that.

I'm not saying "avoid" but do be aware of what you're getting into and adjust expectations accordingly.

If money is that tight where you cant get something a little better, at least go for their "tactical" model. I have not personally had my hands on one but from what I've seen they are a step up from the basic lockers that solve a lot of the issues the lockers have and the price bump really isn't that bad.

To help with moisture, get a silicone cloth and wipe guns down before they go back into wherever you're storing them. Even just doing this will help immensely and I have one stuck to the inside of my safe for everything that goes in. Being in the PNW, moisture is foremost on my list of concerns for firearms. Plus it's like $5.

cotton over nylon or whatever this stuff is https://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Patches-No-3-270-35/dp/B00FSVPIJY/ref=sr_1_55?ie=UTF8&qid=1487962368&sr=8-55&keywords=hoppe%27s+cleaning+patches

Gun & Reel Silicone cloth.

https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Silicone-Reel-Cloth/dp/B0002IKAU0

I've got a Hoppe's 9 silicone cloth I wipe mine down with occasionally. It's a cloth with some type of silicone oil infused. It takes the schmuck off the blade from tape and stuff and leaves a little silicone oil coating to protect it from corrosion. Typically these are meant for guns but I use it in my knives too. It's a quick easy way to clean them up and protect them. You can get them at Walmart or any sporting good type store usually for around $5-6. Hoppe's 9 Silicone Cloth