(Part 3) Best hand & arm protection products according to redditors

http://smile.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Hand-Glove/dp/B000NNT2EY

Get a pair of these bad boys, never have to worry about mouse grip again.

Shoot, I could order most of that stuff right now on Amazon and get it next-day delivered...

3M 1860 N95 RESPIRATOR AND SURGICAL MASK Box of 20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S395R8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ZMQpub07HVFJC

3M TEKK Professional Chemical Splash Goggle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZXTPS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bPQpub0RQE4NA

Dupont Large Yellow Tychem Qc Chemical Protection Coveralls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QQFHI8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.PQpub1W063X0

Atlas 772 X-Large 26-inch Nitrile Elbow Length Chemical Resistant Gloves - Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004URYB7W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AOQpub02769FY

Not to mention industrial suppliers like Grainger or McMaster Carr that have that kind of gear and can rush deliver. There really is no excuse.

If you're a real operator, you'll get the multicam fast fit ones on Amazon for $10 each and Prime shipping.

I don't know, I get basically everything online these days.

• Non-chainmail glove from Amazon.
  
• Chainmail glove

No problem!

Here you go :)

A strop is only for honing (the final step to achieving a razor-sharp edge), while a whetstone could be used for anything from shaping the initial bevel to honing, depending on the grit.

If you do buy some Flexcut knives, which I highly recommend, you will probably only need a strop if you properly maintain them. In fact, they recommend you never use a whetstone and only opt for a Powerstrop if you neglect them for too long.

Many sites will recommend you buy tools one by one so you can get what you need, but as another beginner, I was extremely happy I purchased the Flexcut Deluxe Set. It was probably one more knife and one more palm tool than I needed, but it helped me understand what was out there and how to use them. A good, cheaper alternative might be this set.

No matter what you buy, one of the most important things to do from both a safety and usability (and enjoyment!) factor is to keep your tools as sharp as possible. That way it requires less force to move the tool through the wood, which is a common injury mechanism, and it makes it easier to create fun things. For the weird angles with V and gouge tools, I use another Flexcut invention. It works okay, but you can get the same results with folded sandpaper or other methods. I also bought a fullsize knife strop because it really does make a difference and you can get some with a lot more surface area. I haven't needed to buy a whetstone yet.

Also, I've since supplemented my starter set with Dockyard tools, which also come very sharp and keep their edge well. So far I've only used their micro tools, but I understand they have decent sets as well.

Speaking from unfortunate experience, you should definitely pick up a pair of kevlar gloves. I had a pretty serious hand injury (partially severed tendon) because I was just doing some touchups and wasn't using my gloves and got a bit sloppy. It only takes one single wrong stroke, and I had gotten complacent since I'd been so careful in the past. The gloves let me be more reckless and have definitely saved me from cuts, although they wouldn't protect against a stabbing cut. Thumb guards are also popular, but I don't actually like them very much. The gloves are nice because you can get a great grip on the tools.

When you have a knife or a set, you'll need some wood to practice on. I found ebay to be a great resource...just search for "basswood" and pick a few different sizes. 2x2x6 seems to be a good starting point to me. Make sure it is kiln-dried as well. Here is a good assortment that is pretty cheap. Butternut is another good choice, but for a beginner, I'd stick with basswood from personal experience.

Finally, if you are wanting a good book to introduce you to the subject, I'd recommend the Complete Book of Woodcarving. I've bought a number of books on the subject, but it is definitely the best if you are only buying one and need an overview to the entire craft. Old Time Whittling is only 30 pages, but gave some great examples and was very useful to me as well.

Welding gloves, motherfucker, do you wear 'em?



Seriously, they work amazingly well.

Been using this for about 6 months. No problem holding gloves and I can quickly rip them off without fumbling with a strap. Really just personal preference at the end of the day.

These are a bit bulky but they are long and get the job done for the wash portion of the job on really cold days.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Are you tired of struggling with those bothersome rubber bands that are constantly snapping and putting your eyes out? Don't be blind to progress! Get the new, patented E-Z-Shave Glove today!!

Invest in some no cut gloves. I have this pair and while they're not indestructible, they will save your fingers from a glancing blow. I wear a pair of latex or vinyl gloves over them when i slice to keep the fabric from getting dirty.

That's probably because they're not touch screen (I'm assuming). The home button on the 7 uses the same touch screen response so only reacts to skin or certain gloves.

I actually used these to make my gloves touch screen enabled!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R1OSZM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E4gtybFWBXTXC

Vegan filmmaker/crew here! I was just searching the same thing the other day. These say "synthetic leather/suede", so my guess is they're a safe bet!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6VS7SE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2XNOFBBHK4XVF&coliid=I3UAQTDKQAPZCX&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VYAZQ6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2XNOFBBHK4XVF&coliid=IWQ0TR9H06LY3&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Reflective-Firefighter-Extrication-Alligator/dp/B00OM231B2?crid=1IHHVJI81F870&keywords=lightning+x+products&qid=1536548887&sprefix=lightning+x&sr=8-59&ref=mp_s_a_1_59

https://www.amazon.com/Holder-Glasses-Helmets-Grabber-Catcher/dp/B077G9FBFD?crid=3SWVLM1NY4RRF&keywords=glove+clips&qid=1536548928&sprefix=glive+&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
These are some decent clips for gloves

I like ones like this

They are a lot thinner than most of the ones that my employers that required them would buy. With a thinner glove I was able to feel what I was doing better so my finer knife cuts didn't suffer as much.

If you want a chain mail one like the other guy posted, here is a cheaper option.

I've got a pair of Ironclad framing gloves, leaves main digits free for dextrous work are solid, running on close to two years and they are great.

https://www.amazon.com/Ironclad-Framer-Gloves-FUG-04-L-Large/dp/B00004XOHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518206409&sr=8-1&keywords=ironclad+framer+gloves

As a Chemist, I second /u/DiscountMohel. I use Nitrile gloves in both my lab and in my home/bedroom. I personally recommend Microflex MidKnight gloves due to the fact that they don't tear as easily as other brands. Even the Microflex Supreno will occasionally tear with rough use.

Hope this helps.

Edit:Words

That does seem like an expensive piece of kit - and if you do decide to return it and buy a cheaper model, Id recommend buying something like these (protective gloves!). They might seem like overkill, but even as a fairly experienced cook, using mandolins (even with the hand guard) gives me the heebie jeebies!!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Stark-Safe-Resistant-Protection-Mandolin/dp/B00N0UA4CQ?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_393303011_2&pf_rd_p=7b968661-7c01-5bb2-888b-24e46c5204cd&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=393303011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=MPWXTJFYCWES8JDYX83T&pf_rd_r=MPWXTJFYCWES8JDYX83T&pf_rd_p=7b968661-7c01-5bb2-888b-24e46c5204cd

Gloves with cotton lining.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BZ8K4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1425485591&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=cleaning+gloves+with+cotton+lining

Try prying them off first but be prepared for breakage from the start. Just an idea, possibly use some spray glue to attach a plastic tarp to a few pieces at a time. Otherwise you can use tape and square off a couple feet at a time. Then some light taps with a hammer on a nail ought to break it into small workable pieces without causing a huge mess. Use some cut resistant gloves for removing the pieces, preferably into a sturdy cardboard box (the glass should be able to be recycled). Long sleeves, hat, pants, shoes and eye protection as well, and put down some cloth moving tarps, as those will catch and hold tiny glass chips without them bouncing off, and you can throw them out afterwards. Use a lint roller on your clothing to get glass particles out. See if you can get some of those shoe covers so you don't get any glass embedded in the soles.

The full leather ones are pretty warm. I have a pair of the gloves and mittens. I haven't had a day where I needed anything warmer. I wear the cloth-back ones the majority of the time though.

Though I'm not sure how available they are in Europe.

I would imagine a steel mesh glove (covered with a food prep plastic glove) would dramatically improve the safety of even cheap mandolines for those who cannot afford a $200+ one. Not to detract from what you are saying - just expanding it to broaden options for those who aren't familiar.

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Hand-Glove/dp/B000NNT2EY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367499924&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+link+glove

A much cheaper alternative (though likely significantly less resistant [reviews state that it has protected them from mandoline cuts, but buyer beware and all that]):
http://www.amazon.com/BladeX5-Classic-Resistant-Gloves-Approved/dp/B003DZ02MA/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y#productDetails

Ironclad Framer.

I like the cutoff index, middle, and thumb. Makes wrapping cable and tying tieline easy.

Just don't use them to load weight on a fly system. I learned that the hard fun way.

Another small handed individual here! These are the gloves I've grown accustomed to- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004XOHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518891117&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=framer+gloves&dpPl=1&dpID=51YI88yQobL&ref=plSrch
My only real qualm is that I have been able to wear them out with some very heavy use, but they are cheap so I just order another pair if I get to that point. They are an excellent fit for me personally, flexible but with enough support and structure to still be gloves. The main thing I'd look for, whether you go with this brand or not, are framers gloves. They are a hybrid between fingerless and full fingered, freeing your thumb, index, and middle fingers which gives you identical dexterity as if you weren't wearing gloves. It's perfect for working with small hardware. I do keep a full fingered set on hand as well for certain tasks, but the framer style is my go-to 90% of the time.

I just ordered these so I can't attest to their quality but their ratings are fine on Amazon.

thumb guard

gloves

These are the gloves I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN2GBW8

Sure! Get a large rubbermaid tub, a tube of silicone adhesive caulk, a couple wire coat hangers, and these gloves.

Cut holes in the tub to fit your arms, make rings from the coathangers just slightly larger than the holes. Cut the gloves the length you want them and curl the cuff around the wire. Use the caulk to glue the gloves in place in the box, and you're done!

I keep a can of clorox wipes in there to clean it out from the inside.

Costco has good base layers for cheap, I double them up. I think they're called 32 heat or something. My setup goes like this..

-one or two layers of the 32 heat long underwear, depending on temp.
-sweat pants.
-heavy jeans or carhartt pants if you need lots of pockets.
-one or two long sleeve shirts
-a puffy down hoodless jacket or fleece. Like This. Buy one cheaper than this, it might get burned a little.
-A hoodie over it all. I have a carhartt FR so my jacket doesn't get trashed, and a bunch of freebies that I've gotten from companies.

Gloves and feet are the real pain in the ass.

I have a pair of steel toe red wings that I bought a size up and I wear 2 pairs of wool socks.

These are the gloves I wear when I need to do work that requires dexterity, and mitts for everything else. I keep both on me.

I also have a gaiter to cover my ears/neck.

Also, where do I snag a pink hoodie >:(

You can also tuck them inside your jacket close to your body. I wear kinco lined gloves. They have lasted about a year. I'm Canadian but I take them off I think I'll get my hands wet and then dry my hands off and put my gloves back on. If you want something to work in all the time you'll need to have a rotation as mentioned.

KINCO 901 Men's Pigskin Leather Ski Glove, HeatKeep Thermal Lining, Draylon Thread, Medium, Golden https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01AT2XQ68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mFu9BbSXAWBVJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00487656E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mFx1Cb83Y5PWE

And for wet cold conditions

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTSZDQX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tHx1Cb7SH6NXC

These are super cheap right now, I just ordered some more. They are great gloves but they do wear out.
What term are you?

"framer" gloves are a good cheap glove that still leaves a couple of fingers and thumb free for more dexterity.
https://www.amazon.com/Ironclad-Framer-Gloves-FUG-04-L-Large/dp/B00004XOHE

The people in the world cup are probably wearing these...
https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Packs-and-accessories/CORDEX

I like to wear one of these on my hand used to hold the piece, and one of these on the thumb of my knife holding hand.

You're out almost nothing, and you'll have some really great protection that wont hinder your dexterity.

I garden in these gloves. They keep my hands clean and I can feel everything. I don't find that my hands sweat excessively in them. I love them in the winter, when it's cold I wear two pairs. Microflex (MFXMK296L MidKnight Black Powder-Free Nitrile Examination Gloves - Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQRVZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2kNmDb8JDSS2Z

That's a good one. My first purchase would be my gun, which I think my G36KV was an awesome choice two years later, but I don't know if I'd go for the full size G36 starting out.

Definitely wouldn't get that ill-fittimg PC I bought, instead would probably go for a chest rig setup. Surplus flecktarn sooner too, it's surprisingly cheap.

Everything, excluding shipping would be:

• Used JG G36 for ~$100
  
  
• "MG36" conversion kit for $48
  
  
• Good pants for $54
  
  
• Good shirt for $44
  
  
• Battle belt for $18
  
  
• H-Harness for $15
  
  
• Rigger's belt for $15
  
  
• 2x Mag pouch for $30
  
  
• Dump pouch for $10
  
  
• 5x Midcaps for $55
  
  
• Speed loader for $7
  
  
• Arena Flakjaks because I love mine for $30
  
  
• Face mesh for $14
  
  
• Mechanix M-Pacts for $21
  
  After than it would only be about $30 for a new inner barren and to r-hop that, bringing the total to $491. Battery, charger and ammo all excluded from the cost because to me "loadout" doesn't include them.

I use these when I'm moving lumber around or need to lift things. They're very thin and sticky, so I don't drop stuff and I don't get splinters. That said, as countless others have mentioned, take them off when you're operating power tools.

"Catch, grab, and pull" No loose hair, clothing or gloves.

Kitchen rule #1: Don’t fuck with the mandolin.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5DMX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7yphAbKYJ58NY

These cheap, durable, textured, and LONG. Not incredibly heat resistant; I can reach into the mash and be Ok, but not the boil.

You can't do much about the cold unless you have heated water in your buckets (perhaps even bucket heaters to keep the water warm). You just need to keep your skin dry, so you'll want long cuffed gloves. Something like these work. I don't personally have those, just been eyeing them. I bought a similar pair from a restaurant supply store (of all places lol). I'd make sure they are the right size because if they are too big, you'll lose hand dexterity.

Not ready to just ditch my carboys, but I have been knocking the idea around getting some gloves for brewing. It would be nice to get something that provides protection from hot liquid, grip, and puncture resistance in case I drop a carboy. Preferably elbow length. I was looking at something like this.

these are my favorite. They are like the ones u/sluttyjamjams73 recomeded but knited, and lined. They suck if the lining pulls out (which it will), but they are warm, and even when wet. And at less than 10 bucks, and you can often find them at gas stations and hardware stores, I stock up when I find them.

Pro tip for dealing with feral cats: Welding gloves.

Best 20-30 bucks you'll ever spend.

not chain mail.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W5DMX3C/

I have a pair I use in the kitchen when cutting a lot of stuff by hand or using the mandolin. Cut myself once on the mandolin - never again. You ever seen those videos where they take a knife and do a nice clean thin cut of a vegetable to show off how sharp it is, ya that happened to my thumb.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PBEIZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

what am i missing? same thing, no? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6VS7SE

Not an Über driver, but a frequent uber passenger.

I've got WeatherTech's in three of my cars (Jeep Grand Cherokee, Ford Focus, Toyota Camry), and Husky WeatherBeaters in two (Ford Fusion & 2nd Ford Focus).

I'd seriously consider the weatherbeaters. Here in Canada, we need them to hold liquid (melted salty snow) in the winter, and the WeatherBeaters are usually a better fit with more coverage.

The Weather Beaters are cheaper than the Weather Techs, but might be a hair less professional looking. Personally though, I don't think I will ever buy WeatherTech again, they're fantastic, but the little bit of edge in looks doesn't justify the extra costs to me.

I'd also strongly consider the trunk liners from WeatherTech if you are ever picking up passengers with groceries, just in case a jug of milk breaks you won't have to deal with milk in carpet.

Oh, and finally, from my medical training, keep a box of MidKnight Nitrile Gloves in your car along with some paper shop towels. The MidKnight gloves are the best of the best, and are latex free in case your passengers happen to have latex allergies. Also helps if you need to clean up nosebleeds. Blood borne pathogens are bad news!!

been scrolling around reddit, apologize for 3 days late

these gloves have worked for the past four weeks quite well. would recommend for frozen dairy. also i usually just wear a t-shirt and a button up on top. if i'm going in the freezer to cap, then i'll wear the jackets they have lying around

https://www.amazon.com/Memphis-N9690M-Weather-Acrylic-Fingertips/dp/B0047PHUCK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=freezer+gloves&qid=1562827007&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for $10. I don't think you can use them for bbq. I love how long these are as I can pretty much squeeze a 16lb bag of hot grains without burning my forearms.

Hood
Window tint for inside the hood
Suit
Gloves
Duct tape

They look like these

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Hand-Glove/dp/B000NNT2EY

Ninja ice gloves off amazon. $8 a pair so you can get multiples for cheap to swap out during a long day. Super dextrous and warm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00487656E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m0pMybHTBVDXX

Mechanix Mpacts in coyote. Here they are on amazon. Great price and quality gloves.



Be sure to double check your size. I tend to go a size smaller. They also sell these at most auto parts or big box hardware store where you can go and try on some different sizes.

I'm not sure of the brand, but there is a glove made of stretchy fabric with a thin layer of rubber on the palm and fingers. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAK5FNM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_v8zYub040Z05E

tucking them in my belt takes just a little longer than i would like. I have googled most things like that and found nothing that seems as quick and easy and i would like.

This seems like the best option so far and very close to what i think im after http://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Reflective-Firefighter-Extrication-Alligator/dp/B00OM231B2

I could always just make something from paracord i guess.

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R1OSZM8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1ZOYAUMXYT812&coliid=I12KJDANZI5YP8&psc=1

You have to re-apply the stuff once in a while, but it works great.

You can buy a solution that you apply to a gloves fingertips to make any pair of gloves touch phone compatible.

https://www.amazon.com/Nanotips-Texting-Gloves-Leather-Formula/dp/B00R1OSZM8

I have heard these, or ones like it, reccomended all the time

Here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Glove-WG772L-26-Inch-Nitrile/dp/B001PBEIZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341628037&sr=8-1&keywords=atlas+gloves+elbow

I'm looking to get my own pair of light duty gloves in place of what I was issued at my school. Does anybody know if the gloves have to conform to any certain standard? Was thinking about these but they're not the same color as the issued pair. I'm 100% new to ROTC and the military in general so I have no idea about anything.

Edit: Words

https://www.amazon.com/Mad-Grip-Thunderdome-Impact-Medium/dp/B00DN2GBW8/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3POZN991EVEAD&dchild=1&keywords=madgrips+pro&qid=1574899023&sprefix=madgri%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-12

I bought these for us in meat department then bought extra in different sizes for anyone else who needed them in frozen. Everyone loves them!
Memphis Glove N9690M Ninja Ice 15... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047PHUCK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share