(Part 3) Best home heating & cooling accessories according to redditors

I'm not sure whether I would talk to the neighbors or not - I've seen times where the neighbors start being VERY rude after being asked about their smoking. Asking them to smoke outside is probably going to be a bust, tbh.


Can you close the vent? And/or buy a HEPA filter that claims to help with smoke (not all can handle it, so something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D52E2XG/ )

I'm worried about brake dust too. I made a thread about it asking for air purifier advice.

Here's what I've learned.

Plants help.

The cheapest option seems to be taping a furnace filter to a box fan.

and there's a looooot of expensive options:

Panasonic, Dreval, RabbitAir, Coway...

[Here's one that claims to filter at an astronomically small scale.]
(https://molekule.com/technology) I don't know if I believe it.

This one's still on Kickstarter. It claims to vaporize particles.

Here's a vacuum that wants to help too.

And here's an article that talks about and compares air purifiers.

This one claims 99.97% filtration of particles 0.1 micron or larger.

Dreval D-850 HEPA 0.1 Micron UV Light 7 Stage Air Purifier Humidifier with Odor Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFHWY4O

Just vaping shouldn't really stink up your entire house. But if it's that big of a deal, get an active carbon filter and a ducted fan and run it in the room you are in. That could cover the smell of 3-4 full grown plants, let alone one guy just having a vape.

Cheap fans are noisy but you can always stick the fan in an open cardboard box and insulate the box with a blanket. That basically silences the entire operation.

I assure you, turn that fan on, any smell will be gone within 15 minutes if not faster.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GZ1W3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1453679826&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=active+carbon+air+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41jtCeF9ykL&ref=plSrch

Not this model, but something like it. I'd probably go smaller considering what you are using it for.

I fear that Nest is no longer interested in being a thermostat company. For what you seek Ecobee or Honeywell has solutions with Ecobee being the easiest as a remote sensor is included in the 4.
Not cheap but you could use IFTTT with a sensor like https://www.amazon.com/Foobot-Indoor-Quality-Monitor-Works/dp/B00XI32QYE or https://www.elgato.com/en/eve/eve-room

Thanks! Light is an HLG 550v2 - 3000k. The exhaust fan is an AC Infinity Cloudline T6 with a charcoal Can-lite 6x16 filter. The T6 is really slick since it’s programmable to maintain a target temp via a remote sensor. The thing in the back is an ultrasonic cool mist humidifier - just make sure to put some tape over the led display so it doesn’t throw light. Also slick because it has a programmable humidistat and holds like 1.5 gal of water. Hope this helps!

You might be able to retrofit a HEPA filter instead of the charcoal one. Worth looking into.

Edit: this might be of interest http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A32LLS?pc_redir=1407268916&robot_redir=1

This is the one I have. I'm not talking like a desktop purifier. I'm talking a large bulky appliance that chills on the floor in my bedroom. They do the job perfectly as long as you get something rated for the space (sq ft typically) you're toking in. I mean... It's not instantaneous, but it does move a lot of air fast when on high, that being said, it's also loud when on high.

Honeywell 50250-S True HEPA Air Purifier.

Carbon Pre-Filter.

One caveat to the whole thing is that these obviously aren't meant/rated for someone using them to smoke with. They're meant for folks with severe allergies, sensitivities to smells, and chronic illnesses that might affect their immune systems.

As such, the equipment only holds up so long, and you'll need to replace the "lifetime" hepa filter. There are plenty both official and aftermarket you can find like this one.

Absolutely! You can get as crazy as you want with it, but there are some basics you need to figure out before you really start.

Where are you growing this plant? Do you have a space you're going to use? A closet, an unused bathroom, the basement? Are you going to be purchasing a tent, or maybe emptying out a dresser like this?

The light choice is one you can spend many (too many) hours on. LEDS have their benefits and drawbacks, as do CMH. Heat is more of an issue with CMH, but LEDs can also pump out serious heat. CMH is easy to know what to buy, no real dialing in the height, no worry you're not getting the right spectrum, etc. I'll probablu go LED at some point, but for now CMH is easier (for me). This is the CMH kit I started with. Ballast, bulb, reflector all included. if you have an option for the light, you'll want to get one that is 3100K and NOT the 4000K. 3100K is not as good for veg, but is great for flower. You can detatch the ballast from the reflector - helps keep temps in the tent down, since you can place the ballast outside.

How are you going to deal with heat? Lights run hot, and you WILL need to manage it at some point. Check my previous posts to see my light tube setup.

How are you going to deal with smell? Smell will be an issue, no ifs ands or buts. You can DIY carbon filters, but only if you trust yourself to do it right and hope it won't fail. You will need a carbon filter and fan to manage the smell. I'm running a 6" inline fan with a CAN33 filter. There is 0 smell from the exhaust, the filter is clutch. If noise is an issue for you, fans are decently loud running at full tilt. To work around this, a speed controller on a larger diameter fan, turned down to a lower speed, will reduce noise significantly while giving you the same airflow as a smaller fan on high.

You'll need to get soil and nutrients. Myself and a lot of growers really like Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil. FF Happy Frog is another good one. Get fabric pots if you can - lets the roots breathe a bit.

The above is very, very basic starting info. An enclosed space to grow; an exhaust fan and odor control; full spectrum light; water and nutrients.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Supercropped and LST'd during veg. Under SCRoG for a short period of time but outgrew it!

The Setup

• 5-Gallon DWC bucket
  
• Sunleaves 71GPH Air Pump
  
• Top Fin Airstone soon to be replaced with Sunleaves 8" Round Air Stone
  
• Blackstar 240 Watt LED Lighting System
  
• MINI FloraLux 150 Watt HPS Lighting System
  
• Hanna Instruments HI 98129 Digital PH/EC tester
  
• Powerstrip Timer
  
• Sunleaves Wind Tunnel 6" In-line Exhaust Fan
  
• Can 33 Carbon Filter
  
• Holmes HEPA Air Purifier
  
• Massey 6" Clip Fan
  
• GH Flora Series Expert Recirculating Nutrient Schedule

People aren't using temporary mounts. Instead, they buy one like this: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Safe-AC-080-Light-Duty-Conditioner/dp/B002YFWDXQ

Then, they grab a drill, make a couple holes in the windowsill, make a couple holes in the siding, then drive big-ass screws in.

And then, when summer is over, they take it all out, and just leave it.

Yes! A lot of my eczema and asthma is due to allergies. Any time I had trouble breathing, I also had a terrible outbreak of eczema. I use this air purifier. It's a little pricey, but my husband and I strongly believe that you get what you pay for, and this was for my health which is important. I have been using it for the past year now and both my eczema and asthma have gotten better.

Another thing, I don't know if you have carpet, but investing in a good vacuum has done wonders for my allergies.

Live in California and when there are fires, we can get hammered by smoke, so I've invested in several AeraMax 300 units around the house. They have an "auto" mode or manual speed 1-4. Even on the highest speed it's not that loud. I can't speak to dust allergies specifically but it's a dual-stage HEPA filter and done a good job keeping the dust (And smoke and other particulates) down in the house.

With any filter you buy, make sure you change the filters regularly. They'll get less efficient and push less air through as they get dirty.

What did you use to attach the filters at the lower intakes??

I have had a hard time getting these to stay on my intakes:
WEB Absorber Cut to Fit Odor Control Air Filter with Carbon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKF6LI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JJIDAbXDR4GR5

Ha, fair enough, I've heard the ass-savers aren't really all that great, outside of very light rain conditions.

This one seems to be a cheap favourite of many people

https://www.amazon.com/SKS-rear-mudguard-Xtra-Dry-inch/dp/B008Y2V94M/ref=pd_lpo_468_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=QC2N69C8P22D9VK7ANX2

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485402029&sr=1-8&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

For the brake you need to know the clamping diameter of your handlebar and then buy around that

Something like this.

Dessicant (aka silica gel beads) have can only absorb so much moisture before they need to be recharged. Keep them away from children as ingesting them could be bad.

https://www.thoughtco.com/are-silica-gel-beads-poisonous-608408

I haven't tried these, but they might be useful.

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-7886-Replacement-Desiccant/dp/B000OUXA2Q/ref=pd_sim_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000OUXA2Q&pd_rd_r=V446JJ6FX2SNWPKM9R3F&pd_rd_w=dhWyv&pd_rd_wg=VSJkC&psc=1&refRID=V446JJ6FX2SNWPKM9R3F&dpID=41tG3lgYUdL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Indicating-Rechargeable-Functional-Microscopes/dp/B00YS3AEYC

Or you could just save yourself a lot of time and get one of these: Window Vent Kits

One of my grows I ducted the exhaust from the tent with the exhaust from a "portable"air conditioner that cooled the tent. I did with a 3-way duct similar to this: Wye Duct

You can try this/ Only 10 bucks. so not a huge deal if it doesn't work. https://www.amazon.com/AnyCommand-Universal-Remote-Control-ACR-01/dp/B004368NG0/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

Yes. The Active HEPA Filter (found here: http://www.amazon.com/Miele-50-Active-filter-Models/dp/B000A32LLS) can be used on S8000 models which include both the Calima and the Alize. Not a lot of customers purchase these from me, as spending $50 every six months for a primary filter can become redudant, and they claim it doesn't have that much of a difference, but other customers swear by it... So to each their own I suppose.

I just have a standard 120mm 12v PC fan and I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2NZOKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_rPYFwb7P6TX1R

I ordered this cheap alternative because the fan will not be able to move enough air through a diy filter of the carbon pellets. I've heard people stacking these on the fans and will eliminate most but not all smell.

Purple Smoke Buddy Junior - Personal Air Purifiery and Odor Diffuser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00USR5E1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oFETDbKX9R9S1

Free shipping. Purple and red colors are the least expensive. You just exhale into it and odorless air comes out the other end. Just slip it into your pocket and exit the restroom. I have heard of people using it to vape at their cubicle workstation. I am not recommending that, just sharing what I heard.

smoke buddy

It's a long flight...

Try to ask them to use a smoke buddy on their end first, but you can also try to put up carbon filters over the vents. These work pretty well although need replacement every once in a while. Not that you should have to deal with it but it's an easy compromise, maybe ask them to put them on on their end as well.

edit: forgot link http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Carbon-Filters-HAPF60-Filter/dp/B00L2NZOKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458934386&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+filters

I've never used one of these but I did some quick searches. This one works with IFTTT: https://www.amazon.com/Foobot-Indoor-Quality-Monitor-Works/dp/B00XI32QYE/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1486303394&sr=1-5&keywords=voc+detector

You might could use it in combination with Chowmain's IFTTT deiver to integrate it with Control4.

It is an air filter. https://www.amazon.com/WEB-Absorber-Control-Filter-Carbon/dp/B000FKF6LI

Update!

I am working on moving the drivers outside of the tent. I also found a window exhaust kit so I can vent the heat outside with minimal modification. I did move the fan inside the tent as well.

Let’s see how it goes!

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

Rutland is the top brand for this product. I get the Rutland Fireplace Mortar Cartridges at my local Ace hardware.

If you're just touching up the mortar between existing bricks, go for the "Fireplace Mortar Cartridge", fits any caulking gun. But if you have a lot of bricks to lay, I found the best price on the 12.5 lb tub was Amazon, assuming you have free prime shipping.

i use those and even bought charcoal, i am looking into buying another humidifier, i have the aera max 100 and i just changed the filter after 4 months. i should've changed it faster! that thing was gray AF. i moved it to the living room and now will run it in there. when I get a second I will run it in the bedroom too. I live near a dollar tree so i often walk over and buy the damprids and change them out often.

i do clean the walls and hats with white vinegar. the guitar and dresser were in the living room so it wasnt dark but sometimes the windows are foggy so i make sure to open them when i get home. the hats were in a box in the closet and i look through them and whipe down what needs to be whiped down. kind of worried about photography gear so in my bag i do keep a damprid and a charcoal thing too.

i kind of want to change the blinds to drapes because those will be easier to clean than the blades.

Here are the products ive bought:

Activated Charcoal Bamboo Deodorizer

Aera Max 100 filters: replacement filters

DampRid FG90 with replacement bags, although these tend to fill with water really fast.

I try to leave my closet doors open and a fan in there to create circulation.

You're pretty good with stats and I don't currently have the time to figure out an accurate answer to your questions but I'll give you some real world sold stats for items that I've sold via fba and if you'd like to see if you can figure out an exact formula then good! I hope this is useful to you!

Blood Glucose Tester NIB sold for $25: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KK8HBY/ref=sm_xx_cont_xx

stats from FBA Calculator: http://imgur.com/TKpEI9Y



Honeywell HEPA filter sold for $21.80:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWYO0CM

Stats: http://imgur.com/cEfBAyU


James Bond collection (missing the most recent movie) sold for $124.95: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U1J5ZY

stats: http://imgur.com/i2ocWgd

Star Wars The Complete Saga sold for $70: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZSJ212

stats: http://imgur.com/wn1yPwK

No. HEPA filters all have to meet the same minimum standards. For home use, as a filtering agent, I have found them to be fairly closely matched in performance. The advertising departments for each manufacturer will strive to convince that theirs, and theirs alone, is the best performing unit on the market.

The only thing that matters to me is how fine the particulate filter is: what size (in microns) can it stop. My personal target is .3 microns and above. That catches spores and microbes, which is what triggers my own allergies. I own a Honeywell:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-True-HEPA-465-sq-ft-Air-Purifier-Allergen-Remover-HA300BHD/204390560

This is overkill for your needs, I'm sure. It is rated to clean air in a room of 465 square feet. In all truth, it is enough to handle my small house. These are the filters it takes:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-True-Replacement-Filter-HRF-R2/dp/B00BWYO0CM

There are aftermarket replacements for about half that price. I use the real ones during allergy season, and the cheap ones the rest of the year. Each filter is supposed to last 12 months; I use a Sharpie to date each one, although there is an electronic reminder built into the unit.

The unit has four fan settings; for most of the time I have it running on low for general upkeep. Which is pretty much silent. You'd never notice it running. But speed number 4 is called 'turbo', and it does a good job of clearing out the kitchen when I screw up and burn something on the stove.

So far, it seems to be a good product, and I feel I've got my money's worth. Had it four years so far, I think.

Here's what those portable AC window things look like.

https://www.amazon.com/Whynter-ARC-WK-SINGN-Plastic-portable-conditioners/dp/B0048ELAA8

So you would slide it up against that and run your duct through it. I thought I saw one that was insulated but i cant find it

I bought one of these to get my codes https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004368NG0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just put filters over your intake fans. Go to any hardware store or department store, find the home air filters. Look for the Honeywell pre-filters, they come rolled up in a box. It's like a thin sponge material made of carbon. Cut it to the dimensions of your fan and mount between the fan and case, or between the metal case and the outer plastic shell. This eliminates 95% of dust buildup, then you just vacuum the filter once in a while.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-HRF-AP1-Universal-Replacement-Pre-Filter/dp/B003UH9I2G

Naw, he's missing one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Broan-S98006791-Motor-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B003PE809G

I appreciate your response! The problem is that I am not permitted to drill the holes outside that most kits require and others I have tried flunked out.

The kit below wanted holes in the sill or frame (which you can see in one photo), the problem was I couldn't get purchase cause my drill hits something too hard to get through. The sill is made of some weird rock looking material that I wasn't sure if I should try to use. I also tried a tool-less kit but the living room window is a double, and expanding "arms" would not be anchored by the wall and all the weight would be on the bottom of the window frame.

Thats why I thought of popping on an L angle to each side, the window would have to fall apart or something before the A/C could come loose.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Safe-AC-080-Light-Duty-Conditioner/dp/B002YFWDXQ
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-AC-Air-Conditioner-Support-Drilling-Required/dp/B01D8NAZTQ

Window Side View