Best horse tack storage & care products according to redditors

clean it with saddle soap then oil the hell out of it with mink oil.

Got you covered:

1. a) The widest part of your foot should correspond with the widest section of the boot. Most of the creasing should happen in between the laces/tongue and the cap. My Brannock is 8D, I wear an 8D in the Katahdin. b) The break in will NOT be fun, but two weeks tops; 'lean' forward when you lace them up, and lace all the way up (I skip the middle set of speedhooks and then double-back). c) The leather won't stretch very much: if it's snug during first wear, you're good to go; if it hurts in any way, size up or go wide; if there's heel slippage, size down.
   
   
2. NO WATERPROOFING. Well, you can. But Lexol or Bickmore care products (cleaner, conditioner, repellent) are plenty for your boots. Heavy duty waterproofing products will make your boots look ugly/blobby. The tongue is gusseted, helps to keep out water/dirt.
   
   
3. It'll happen on it's own.
   
   
4. Depends. I walk around a lot (concrete, asphalt, linoleum, etc.), I haven't had problems with the insole. Do you have issues with flat-footedness, high arches, etc.? Remember that an insert will require you to size up. The outsole/heel will wear down, especially if you pronate/supinate. It helps to have a second pair of footwear to rotate with (and let boots 'rest'), so consider a second footwear purchase in the coming year or so (I picked up a pair of AE's Higgins Mills about 10 months after I bought the Katahdin).
   
   
5. I use Woodlore Epics after every wear, brush only if I kicked a lot of things on a given day. A cloth rag is good for wiping away dirt (especially that rainwater + city dirt mix).
   
   The Katahdin leather has an interesting depth to it. Lemme know if you have more questions.
   
   Edit: more details/clarity.

Amanda! Your bags look beautiful!!!!

I never worry about flaws as most reps actually mimic the same flaws as their authentic counterparts...and to be honest...the only 1:1 is the authentic, which I just do not think is worth the asking price. At $145 the flaws are so insignificant as not to matter and most can be fixed with a bottle of shiny (dull canvas) or a trip to the cobbler (cinch tab thingy) or a marker (red glue) and a little darkening boost (patina). To be quite frank, I love reps because they present a challenge and I am thoroughly enjoying finding solutions to these minor dilemmas...and employing them (and for research purposes of course). To me it's fun...go figure.

I so want a DA just to see and I think I may take the plunge, though I'll stick to the beige interior.

I am so tickled to hear someone say that they think their reps are "fantastic" and are not agonizing over every single detail. I am certain that you will enjoy your lovelies, and because you will, I doubt if anyone will ever guess they're reps. Love, love, love your review and your attitude, thank you so much for sharing love!

Try some water and hard hard scrubbing with a rag first. If that doesn't work, use a little bit of dish soap diluted in water and more scrubbing. Lexol or some other leather cleaner would be the next option. Saddle Soap would be another step up.

If saddle soap doesn't get the stains out we will have to talk about going nuclear with something like renomat. Stuff this powerful really is harmful to the overall finish of the shoes.

If you aren't in the mood to damage your shoes, go with a dark polish to darken everything to the same color as the blemish.

1. Electric power steering. Very few cars have hydraulic power steering systems anymore.
   
   
2. One is the HVAC filter under the dash (dust & pollen). The other one is what the engine breathes through.
   
   
3. Wiper blades and fluid.
   
   Tire pressures (the TPMS only senses a difference in pressure in one or two tires, it will not alert you if all 4 are equally low).
   
   If you have leather seats, clean them with some [saddle soap](Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap, 12 Oz. - Cleans, Softens and Preserves Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSVTK4/) every 6 months or so to keep them looking new.

What kind of boots are they? Can you post a picture? Generally you use saddle soap for leather and synthetics then thoroughly wiped with a damp cloth to remove any traces of soap, but it depends.

I have an old HDR lesson saddle that was gifted to me when my trainer closed shop. I use Fiebengs Saddle soap on it once a week and it went from a squeaking nightmare to a soft, supple saddle in 2 treatments. I love this stuff. In the past I’ve used stübbon’s cleaner and polish for my saddles but it always left them gooey and sticky. This stiff rubs in well and looks great.

Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap, 12 Ounce - Cleans, Softens and Preserves Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSVTK4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here is the desktop version of your link

That looks like salt stains. I would try [saddle soap] (https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Yellow-Saddle-Soap-Oz/dp/B00GRSVTK4/ref=sr_1_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485095869&sr=1-1&keywords=Fiebings&th=1) then a good leather conditioner.

I always get mine at Tractor Supply - but boot stores or western tack stores will have them too. Don't overpay. Saddle soap is, at most, $5 for a big can and the mink oil is around $2.50 for a tub.


These are what you're looking for - Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap, 12 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSVTK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pryrybEQFBMRC


Fiebing's Golden Mink Oil Leather Preserver, 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ42Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nsyrybQ1150G2


Amazon is high dollar on these things it appears.

I just can’t get on board with olive oil. It’s food. Sure leather is technically skin, but my personal feeling is that it can potentially cause issues. I’ve seen arguments both for and against this theory so who knows where the truth lies....I’m just like - no it’s food 🤷🏻‍♀️.

That said, what you’ve done does look great so far.

For future use, may I recommend neatsfoot oil to force patina. I’ve used it a ton. Especially when I first started buying reps. These days I lean more towards the new, un-patina’d look so I haven’t been using it, but it’s specifically made for leather and works well.

Obenauf makes a leather oil that is better for treating/conditioning dry leather.

Saddle Soap is a great product to clean and maintain boots without drying them out.

Red Wing also makes Mink Oil and a number of other leather treatments to weatherproof boots.

You could get him 1 of each, and a cleaning brush and put it all in a wooden cigar box. ($1-5 at a tobacco store) and it would be a great gift.

I think SnoSeal and Huberd's Shoe Oil serve two different purposes:

• SnoSeal is primarily beeswax (paste), and (I'm speculating) it's primary purpose is waterproofing. I've never used SnoSeal, so I'm not sure how well it conditions leather.
  
  
• Leather oils are (obviously) oil-based, and their primary purpose is to penetrate and condition the leather. They might provide some water-resistance, too, especially if it contains mink oil. Oils will likely permanently darken the leather, if that's a concern.
  
  Personally, I use Effax Lederbalsam, which is a wax/oil paste, and it does a good job of conditioning and waterproofing. Another (likely overkill) alternative is Obenhauf's HDLP, which is a heavy-duty conditioner/waterproofer. I'd also get some saddle soap to clean the leather once or twice a year.

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

Previous to this wallet, I carried a money clip for about a year. I found the clip to be too minimalist, as I do require some level of organization. I generally carry 5-6 cards (2 ID, 1 credit, 1 debit, 1 train card, and any business card I receive that day) and cash, and the available space in this wallet is spot on.

I would like to mention here that if you do decide on a leather wallet, or any leather goods for that matter, you should invest in some prime neatsfoot oil (the 8oz bottle is selected, yet it still shows the large jug). Take care of your leather products and they will last much longer.

I've always used saddle soap for almost all my leather products, and have some quite old leather shoes & belts that still look great, thanks to it. I don't use it on my track leathers, but I have a RSD moto jacket that I've been using it on for the last 1.5 years and the jacket looks great & the leathers supple, despite being subject to a lot of california sun & sweat

Have you tried using leather conditioner or cleaner? Once a year seems way too frequent. I bought a used saddle brown classic buckle a year ago (and it was already a year old at that point) and it is nowhere near needing replacement (admittedly, I only wear it once or twice a week).

If you do end up replacing the leather band, maybe consider rubbing some kind of weatherproofing treatment on it before you wear it so it holds up better to abuse this time. (for e.g., https://www.amazon.com/Snow-Proof-Weatherproofing-Leather-Conditioner/dp/B013XS7MX8)

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Sure thing. I scoured the web and /r/MFA looking at guides until I settled on this method:

1. Rinse the shoes off in cool water to remove any loose debris.
   
2. Using a soft-head toothbrush, thoroughly scrub the shoes with a mixture of dish soap and water.
   
3. Blot the shoes dry with paper towel.
   
4. Using a cloth (I used an old undershirt), apply Saddle Soap to the shoes and leather insoles. Remove any excess soap with your cloth and let the shoes sit a few minutes to dry.
   
5. Using a new cloth, apply a conditioner to the shoes. I personally used coconut oil. Let sit and dry.
   
   Note: I linked to the products I personally used. Allen Edmonds also sells saddle soap in a much more reasonable 3 oz size. If you used too much coconut oil, you may see a white film develop. Just rub it off with your cloth. This guide was also helpful.

Hah, I should have paid attention to your username then I might have guessed you were in Wales.

Looking at the new photos you posted, if I were you I would not bother sending the razors to anyone to be professionally restored (but you will need to send them to someone to be professionally honed, i.e. sharpened). The blades look quite clean except for one bad spot of black corrosion on the back side of the tang (where you hold the razor) of the George Butler. Look in an automobile parts store, in the restoration/cleaning supplies aisle, and you should find a pack of steel wool in different grades (coarse, medium, fine). You can use it to try and clean off that corrosion but just be warned that it can put some scratches in the blade, nothing that will affect the performance but I don't like the look afterwards. The rest of the blade on both razors I would just clean with a rag and some metal polish (can get it when you get the steel wool) like Maas or Blue Magic. I don't like to clean my razors too much because I like the look of the patina (the greying) that builds up on vintage razors, shows character and age imo, plus I think it helps protect against rust.

I don't have anyone I know in the UK who hones straight razors. You can check the Ebay UK listings as I sometimes see people offering honing services there, usually around 15 pounds, but I cannot make any recommendations.

I would like to see more photos of the razor strop if you have it, of the handle in particular, so I can judge if it is genuine ivory. If so then I am very jealous, I can't remember seeing such a strop before. Personally I would keep the strop as-is to be a treasured heirloom. You can look for neatsfoot oil (made from cows) to treat the leather to try to preserve it, or you can use mineral oil or some other leather care product. If you would like to have the leather replaced on the strop then I would recommend Alastair with Westholme Strops as he is in the UK. His work is pricey but top-notch. This is the Westholme strop that I own.

If is leather it needs conditioner as part of it regular maintenance, I would use something like snow-proof, it might darken it a bit but like I said leather needs conditioner or it will rot and crack.
https://www.amazon.com/Snow-Proof-Weatherproofing-Leather-Conditioner/dp/B013XS7MX8

Has anyone used Bicks Saddlesoap or Bicks LP before?

the LP is cheaper than Obenaufs on amazon since a 4oz is like $18 but the 8oz of Bicks LP is $15

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746PCV6Q

https://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Saddle-Soap-Plus-Lanolin/dp/B016DQQYVI

Saddle Soap

This has saved my Celine dune purse countless times from jean transfer.

I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!

0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.


1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap


2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.


3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.


4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil


That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.

I'm guessing this is a good example of a Neatsfoot product?

I may pick some up. As you said it's cheap and I'm still building a collection of cleaning/conditioning products.

Hey Guys, I just got Cole Haan Cambridge Oxfords and I am wondering what kind of leather care products i should buy and apply to preserve them? Thanks!

I'm going to purchase this to clean up my other leather boots (clarks deserts etc). do you think this would work as well?

Petego Comfort Wagon Bicycle Pet Trailer, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4VM684/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VfZVCbVPR0FRS

I've had good luck with Saddle Soap on a pair of shoes I bought used and Thai food stains. It's meant for exactly that - cleaning grease/oil out of leather. If the other option is to dye them darker, I don't think you'd do any harm to try it.

This is what I've got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TEFNXE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this do the job? that prime same-day delivery will be clutch.

Thanks.

Do you have any recommendation for a leather spray? I'm thinking of just using this leather/suede duo spray from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Gard-More-Water-Repellent-Neutral/dp/B000HHLM9E/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=leather+shoe+spray&qid=1574817195&sr=8-4

Also, you might try saddle soap to clean it up before you use a preservative. It might help to get rid of some of the staining.

Try a leather soap. I haven’t tried this one personally, I use Red Wing brand, but most soaps are pretty similar afaik. For it you get a damp warm wash cloth and just rub it on the soap then rub it on the shoe. Wipe off excess and then let it dry.

Conversely if money is tight, a warm damp wash cloth with a just a dab of liquid laundry detergent can work as well but I don’t know about that with snow/salt stains.

Totally, as long as its boot specific oil it should work fine. The most highly regarded brand (and what I personally use) is Obenaufs, it is a little more expensive but that tub should last about a year or so.

It's important to get the dirt off before oiling, some folks use Saddle Soap or similar to strip all the dirt/chemicals off first. Dirt and especially harsh chemicals can dry out and damage the leather if left on for extended periods. Personally, my boots are usually just dirty (no chemicals) so I give mine a good scrub with water, let em dry overnight, then use the oil on em. It's important to spend some time rubbing the oil in so that it really soaks in instead of just sitting on the surface. Some folks leave their boots in the sun for awhile to warm them up to aid absorption.

Anyway, I usually once every 2-3 weeks or whenever the leather seems dry (depends on the environment). You can over-oil boots, however, so I wouldn't do it more often than that myself.

I use Belvoir conditioner for my saddle's monthly conditioning.

I used Stubben Hamanol on my leather driving harness before I switched to a betathane harness. It works well and supposedly won't stretch the stitching, but takes a while to soak in and has a slight bacon scent.

I've definitely posted this before, but I love the Car Day Martin Belvoir Leather Conditioner! It's beeswax and lanolin based, similar to Lederbalsam but personally I've had better results with the Car Day Martin product than the Effax Lederbalsm (haven't tested other brands). Since I foxhunt, my tack is unfortunately exposed to a lot of water/mud/moisture and this stuff really protects the leather. My one friend swears by Horseman's One Step but I think it smells godawful, plus I find the name annoyingly deceptive, proper tack care is always multiple steps grahhhhh!

When you dye the leather you're always going to have some dye residue leftover. In my experience I've only had issues with the dye leeching out when I haven't made the effort to 'clean' the leather after dyeing. My process is:

1. Dye the leather and let the dye set for 12+ hrs if possible
   
2. Use Saddle Soap on a rag and really work it into the dyed leather
   
3. Apply a light coat of mink oil or olive oil
   
4. If desired, use a sealant/finisher. I use Tan Kote and it works great, with no scent after it has dried
   
5. Apply beeswax and polish
   
   I've also found that leather will take up oil regardless of having put a sealer/finish onto it. For example, I made a piece with a thick coating of Super Sheen on it and it still quickly absorbs mink oil when I want to condition it.
   
   By the way - if you're looking to 'go natural' and/or not have issues with the dye fading out then you need to try Vinegaroon. The stuff works like a charm. Only issue is that it can be tough to get the vinegar smell out.

Opinion on Moneysworth and Best products?

The shoe care stores around me seem to stock a lot of their products, and I specifically am looking for opinions on their Cleaner and Conditioner and Saddle Soap. I have both products but I'm looking to see what the general opinion of those products are and the brand in general.

• Feibings Saddle Soap
  
  Worked great on my yard sale leather sofa find.

Gonna need a few more details and pictures if possible.

1. What's the brand of leather cleaner? Leathers are not made equal and cleaners are formulated for different types. Just because it worked on a leather couch doesn't mean it's going to be ideal or even suitable for a shoe.
   
   
2. What's the shoe made out of? Leather oxfords can be made with lots of different types and require different care. Upholstery leather is very different from belt leather.
   
   
3. What's the extent of the cracking and damage. Smell isn't as big of a concern right now, that'll dissipate. The smell might have been caused by a chemical reaction with oils in the leather and leather cleaner. My concern would be visual damage and internal breakdown of the leather.
   
   Any oil or product you add will darken the leather, but that's just how it is. What I recommend for most things is Saddle Soap and Skidmore's Leather cream, but there's a lot of products out there, and even those might not be ideal for you.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Snow-Proof-Weatherproofing-Leather-Conditioner/dp/B013XS7MX8

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