(Part 2) Best tool sets according to redditors

Let's look at some numbers then.

You need a cable tester, that's $370 for this, the bare minimum tester you can use.. The right tester is like $7k to buy, probably around $500 to rent for a week, so we're cutting corners.

Then, you need a spool of plenum cat6a. It makes no sense to use cat6, because you can't do 10g over it for any real distance. That's $275, again, the bare minimum you can buy.

Then, you need a tool set. $60, they're cheap, but you'll only use them once. I don't buy cheap tools, your company is less discerning.

Lets spec for 10 wall plates. 13.95 for keystones, $12 for wall plates, 10 mud rings for $85 because you need retrofits for existing construction for a section total of 110.95

Then you need a patch panel to punch all the cables down. That's 47.81 for the bare minimum. Make sure you punch it right the first time, because you'll get maybe 3 punches out of a port before you have to toss it.

You'll also need this $32 fish tape, and this pull string for 14.73

To hang the cable, you'll need these plus some zip ties and some screws to attach everything. Also, you'll need a couple rolls of plenum velcro to wrap cables and get everything tidy-ish. Let's be conservative here and call that $50 all told.

That's 950.49 before you've even paid taxes or shipping, but whatever, we've left off the biggest cost here.

Your Time

Now, let's assume you make 20 bucks an hour (it's probably more). You probably cost the company 30 bucks an hour with everything else they pay for to have you employed (again, it's probably more). You'll spend 15 hours to complete this project provided you work fast and don't make mistakes. That's two full workdays in fairy tale land where you're already good at this. So let's call it 20 hours of learning how to cable and making mistakes and actual cabling, plus say 2 hours to clean up the mess you'll make (there will be mess).

All told, it'll cost the company 1610.49 for this install.

100 bucks more than you were quoted to have a guy with zero experience to install a network that will be critical to business operations for years. Sounds like a deal!

For the record, an impact screwdriver does wonders on those.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-30200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B000P0TZ9W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526121712&sr=8-4&keywords=lisle+impact+screwdriver

It has a big phillips bit, and can be set to either tighten or loosen when you hit the back end with a small(or large) sledge. The sledge encourages the bit to not slip out at the same time as doing the turn.

As others have said. Drill the rest of that screw out, you really don't need to go much deeper before it lets go, if you use a slightly larger bit(larger than the hole in the rotor, check the new rotor's hole size). Before I got impact driver, when they got stuck I'd drill the head off and then the screw beneath is only finger tight.

Here are the basics, I will edit if I think of any more essential tools, but you can go an awfully long way with these.

Hand Tools:

• Hand saw- I prefer Japanese style pull saws, meaning they cut on the pull stroke. My go to utility saw is a Vaughn bear saw, which is a robust package, with several types of interchangeable blades. There are countless types of saws, for different uses, but a fine toothed Japanese saw will get you by for most things.
  
  
• Combination square- A sliding ruler square, perfect for marking and layout. you will also want a speed square eventually, so you might as well get one.
  
  
• Tape measure- Start with a basic 25' tape, and get more as needed.
  
  
• Basic chisel set- Most of the entry grade chisels are pretty much the same, this Irwin set is a pretty good buy. to start with a set of 1/4", 1/2", and 1" are all you really need, but you can never have enough chisels.
  
  
• Block plane- A low angle block plane will get you a long ways breaking corners and trimming pieces. Stanley makes a great, affordable, option. As time goes by you will need a jack plane, but a block plane will do for now.
  
  
• Sharpening equipment- A fine diamond stone like this will get you a long way keeping your chisels and plane sharp. You should do research into sharpening methods as you use your tools more, and build a system that fits you.
  
  
• Hammer- A cheap smooth face hammer. Build a wooden mallet as a starter project.
  
  
• Clamps- You always need more clamps. Big clamps. Small clamps. Weird clamps. I like bar clamps. Harbour Freight has good deals on fair clamps, but don't expect too much out of them. To start with get a couple with ~8" throat, and a couple with ~18" throat.
  
  Power Tools:
  
  
• Cordless drill- If you're willing to spend the money for a good, reliable, tool I recommend Makita, but a Ryobi or Rigid will serve you well if you're just working on small projects. Everyone has their favourite cordless tool brand, and, for the most part, it really is just preference. I highly recommend adding an impact driver and circular saw to whichever system you choose.
  
  
• Circular Saw- If you want to work with plywood or larger sticks, you will want a circular saw, which is the most basic power saw. Most of the major tool companies make fine starter saws, Skil is the original, and is quite cheap, but there are plenty of others, browse a store and see what takes your fancy.
  
  
• Jig saw- A jig saw is used for cutting curves, and you will eventually need it if you build enough things. I prefer Bosch but there are cheaper options. See what feels right to you.
  
  
• Miter saw- You don't need this right away, but if you start doing more projects you will want one. I recommend going right to a sliding compound miter saw, like this Dewalt. You will never need more miter saw than that, and if you get a small one you will eventually end up buying a the real deal.
  
  
• Table saw- Again, you don't need this right away, but eventually you will feel you need the precision and ease that a table saw brings. The Rigid portable table saw is a great saw if you're working in tight quarters and need to pack up, but you'll appreciate the appreciate the stability of a cast iron topped cabinet saw if you have the cash and space for it.
  
  Misc:
  
  
• Drill bits- Get a cheap twist drill set that goes from 1/16" to 1/2" and a basic spade bit set. Later you will want a set of forstners and hole saws.
  
  
• Utility knife
  
  
• Driver bits
  

Pliers Rack & Organizer For Tool Drawer Storage https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001DZLMFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QWoIAbFXKATVM

get one of those rubber discs you attached to a power drill they use to take off decals and stickers. i use one for ALOT of stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-400E-Pinstripe-Removal-Tool/dp/B000IHK2TY/ref=sr_1_4/144-4911880-7098444?ie=UTF8&qid=1494366538&sr=8-4&

Need an impact screwdriver

Amazon.

[Channellock] (https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-TOOLROLL-3-5-Piece-Plier-Handy/dp/B001A3ZBCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474483192&sr=8-1&keywords=channellock+tool+roll)

Astro 400e is the most common eraser wheel I sell at work (bodyshop wholesale supply). $11 on Amazon but you need the $5 arbor with it.

I don't know if its too late, but we used one of these pinstripe removal wheels to take all the decals off of our trailer, and it worked miracles, and did it so much faster. The only caveat is you must use a plug in drill, and you want to watch the temperature on the drill or risk burning up the motor. But it really tore through all the graphics we used it on.

Was his axe something like this?

Yeah I don't see myself having to use this tool long term, I just have some really long pre-termed cat 6 cables which I'd like to cut down to more manageable sizes for the sake of being frugal.


Would this Paladin tool set be sufficient?

I got these from my Snap on guy, but these are the same thing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZIS8QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_87W7CbGXEHPST

get a grounding wrist strap and don't pour water on it while its running and pretty much nothing

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anti-Static-Wrist-Strap-Grounding-Discharge/dp/B004XBBYSY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451242778&sr=8-1&keywords=anti+static

A spudger kit will come in handy for working with plastic without scratching it up. I have this one and use it all the time: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013W4O7QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OtsMybYSBX8H8

You will also need a tri-wing screwdriver to open up any gameboy. Search for one on ebay. You can get one for like a dollar, but it will probably come from china and take forever to get to you. Pay a little more and buy one that will ship to you in a reasonable time.

That's enough if you just want to open it up, clean it, paint it or swap shells. If you want to mess with the electronic components, you will need a soldering iron as well. And solder. And you may never stop buying tools because it's fun.

That should get you started.

I have this Dewalt electric impact. I love it. It works great when I need to swap wheels out on my beaters or rotate the tires.

Personally, something like this would be AWESOME, but that's just me.

Does he have a pegboard wall behind his workbench? All this stuff would be great for that!

Maybe he'd appreciate a cheap clock radio for his bench? Better light bulbs so he can see better? A shop-vac?

I wish you tons of luck!!

EDIT -- Just found this organizer -- how awesome is that? :-D

Will this not work
Stanley STMT71648 40-Piece Socket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EMKLDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W7UlzbRSY1T4D

Use one of these.

Any idea what type of commercial installation?

Judging by the tools they asked you to bring you're probably doing duct wrap (insulation). Have a pair of snug fitting work gloves with the rubber palms.

As for general tools:
Klein 11-in-1 (philips, flat head, 1/4 5/16 3/8 nut driver)
Vise grips
needle nose pliers - like these
Channel locks - a set like this is nice. for everyday use you only need the larger channel lock and the needlesnose
Ratcheting set - something like this. there are cheaper options available. Pro-tip, get a carabiner and slide on 1/4" up to 3/4" since those seem to be the most common.
Utility Knife - I prefer these over the sliding ones especially when working with fiberglass
Tape measure - this is the one I've had for the longest.
Adjustable wrench - large and small are good to have

most importantly!
memo book / notepad
ballpoint pen
2 or 3 black sharpie markers

For the first day you probably won't need them, but aviation snips are good to have. Bender and crimper's are good to have.

I noticed someone mentioned an impact driver. First day? I don;t think it's necessary. By your first pay check you should definitely get one though. Talk to the guys in your shop and see what they use. Each worker, company and type of HVAC will demand a different kind of screw gun / impact driver. Rather than dumping a couple hundred on a machine that may not be best for the job, just see what they are using. Maybe pickup a tip set though, just in case. If you have to borrow a screw gun for any reason you'll at least have your own tips.

This is the one I have. There are a bunch that are very similar. I think the cheapest one was 15. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/social/swf/B005NMCE04/o=ShareProduct/ref=tsm_1_aw_swf_d_sp?vs=1

I bought and use this. Works great, though, I would suggest you get an impact punchdown tool, as it makes life way easier.

amazon:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anti-Static-Wrist-Strap-Grounding-Discharge/dp/B004XBBYSY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405101514&sr=8-1&keywords=anti+static+wrist+strap

i dont know if its the best but that's where i am getting mine.

Pliers rack.

One of the best things I ever bought for toolbox organization. It's awesome being able to open the pliers drawer and see everything at a glance and know exactly where to reach.

If you haven't clicked the link, check it out. It's really that good. (No, I don't work for them. I just bought a rack a few years ago and damn, I wish I bought it years earlier.)

+1 that’s the tool I was referencing in my post but an interchangeable type. Didn’t know about JIS!

Edit: grabbed a link

Stanley STMT71648 40-Piece Socket Set

Try an easy out

https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Remover-Extractor-EasyOut/dp/B07HGSPQDV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=easy+out&qid=1573352191&sr=8-3

If you are looking to gift a cordless impact, don't mess about this is the way to go

A set of Non-Abrasive Nylon tools like these: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Professional-Non-Abrasive-Anti-Static-Screwdrivers/dp/B013W4O7QS

Spring hooks : https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-M-130-SX5-Lifter-Knurled/dp/B006C46PKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481131240&sr=1-1&keywords=spring+hook

Yeah that would be a hassle, I don't blame you for passing on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Data-Shark-70007-Complete-Network/dp/B0018BL0PO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491590217&sr=8-6&keywords=rj-45+crimper

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Paladin-Phone-Jack-Installation-Kit-PA70007/202532422

Those are an exact copy of the ideal kit I bought, down to the layout of the tools inside the case. Both with different brand names on them. If you're worried about quality you can get a Klein pair for around $30.

You're looking for this type of tool.

Basically drill a small hole - or in case of a gas key, maybe the stripped out hex socket - use the 'easy out'. Key to these is they are cut to be rotated 'Left'. They'll pull themselves into the hole you drilled and the more you turn, the more 'get that damned thing outta my bolt' torque it applies.

If you use a normal drill and tap - everything is trying to go the same direction. Good way to add a screw - but unless you get tricky and use a lock nut, kinda tough to back a damaged fastener out.

You can look into plastic trim removers such as this http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4524-Fastener-Tool/dp/B005NMCE04/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381811628&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+trim+tool

If you're putty knife was metal like most are it can easily scratch what you're working on.

These

Pliers Rack & Organizer For Tool Drawer Storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZLMFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y.zCDbG6WBXNH

I have bad experience with Craftsman tools, I used to work in a shop and I can't tell you how many times sockets have cracked and rounded off a bolt for me.

I have had good experience with Snap on, S&K, and on the cheaper end Kobalt.

Whatever set you get, make sure you get 6 point sockets and not 12, 6 point sockets are much MUCH less likely to round off or strip bolt heads/nuts they cost a little more but they are totally worth it.

Also, Dewalt tools are some of the better in the industry, my friend runs a contracting business and he only buys dewalt battery powered tools and hand tools.

Edit: BAM! Deal of a century

Sorry to hear about your truck, that’s terrible...

I have an obscene amount of high end Snap-on sockets & ratchets (see my post history) at work but keep a hard cased Dewalt socket set in my truck for emergencies & home use.

I am seriously impressed with their quality, and have used them a fair bit over the last year without issue.

They sell them on amazon pretty cheap DEWALT DWMT72165 204 Piece Mechanics Tool Set

And they have a few different versions depending on your budget.

My friend (who owns a Dewalt dealership told me that they are probably made by Mac (another high end tool co) but I have no idea how true that is.

What about something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Remover-Extractor-EasyOut/dp/B07HGSPQDV/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=57693500122&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPrLHvlaK1sa8YWsFrgEPaGaCMydlm0oE9K821ssZ6s2eePExUXZPd8aAsRPEALw_wcB&hvadid=274777729834&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9014962&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16385030671421084844&hvtargid=kwd-296031070999&hydadcr=20372_9349005&keywords=screw+extractor+set&qid=1573079445&sr=8-5

Damaged Screw Extractor Set - Remover Set by Easy Out, Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws. Made From H.S.S. 4341#, the Hardness Is 62-63hrc,Set of 4 Stripped Screw Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGSPQDV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EeEXDbNWRMYG6

https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Remover-Extractor-EasyOut/dp/B07HGSPQDV/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=stripped+screw+extractor&qid=1573084676&sprefix=stripped+&sr=8-5

Use something like this, drill in with one side, then the opposite

Will check them out. Thanks!

Seems you like Paladin Tools at least for your stripper and crimper.

what do you think of this simple kit?

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-70007-Complete-Network/dp/B0018BL0PO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3JVM70HDUNSSH&coliid=I29E3NPKRSMSHO

Did you mean this set here? https://www.amazon.com/HANSON-Lugnut-Specialty-Extractor-54125/dp/B001ACPRFU

I used these to take off a set of McGard locking lugs, soak the nut with penetrating oil for a few hours before you start working on them.

Of course, you MUST sharpen these for them to work best. I personally use these everyday!
http://smile.amazon.com/Crown-187-8-Inch-203-mm-Gents/dp/B001V9KOFA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407863136&sr=8-1&keywords=crown+saw
http://smile.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-M444-S4N/dp/B000RFX032/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407863154&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+chisel
will post more if I think of them

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-400E-Pinstripe-Removal/dp/B000IHK2TY

This one is my favorite, personally

Automatic Wire Stripper

Plastic Trim Tools

Digital Multimeter

Wire Puller

Might not be worth it unless this is a recurring problem for you, but easy outs are made for exactly this type of problem.
The reverse spirals on the pin go into the inside of the broken pipe, then you can just grab a wrench and unthread it. Really convenient tool that (at least in my experience) not too many people know exist.

If you don't have one, a repair kit like this is worth every penny - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013W4O7QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1463869791&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=phone+repair+kit

That kit there will allow you to repair almost any device on the market.

So a trade in?

A decent dealership should have some extraction sockets to remove your lock nuts

If you can buy (or even better, borrow!) a set like this, plus a couple of pliers and screwdrivers, I'm pretty sure you can get it done.

It seems to me like what you may be describing is a larger, more powerful impact wrench which is a separate tool altogether than the drill/driver that /u/travisby was describing in his post.

Impact wrenches tend to have either 1/2" or 3/8" square male adapters that attach into sockets.

Stanley has made some pretty good planes. I'd suggest you try and find a vintage one in decent condition (you can even get some off ebay reasonably) and tune it up. Hone the base and sides, clean off any rust, take it all apart and get the sawdust out (especially from the mating surfaces for the frog), soak the screws in some solvent and clean em off, hone the iron cap so it lies flat, sharpen and hone the blade (or buy a good replacement if it needs it [Lee Valley/Veritas has good ones]).

Theres lots of good brands for chisels, I would honestly not mess about with trying to get vintage ones; just buy a set of Marples for now, or look at some of the fancier offerings from Lee Valley.

Veritas is considered one of the best values in hand saws, but they are expensive for a beginner. Unfortunately I don't know about saws well enough to recommend a less expensive brand. Unless you know or want to learn how to sharpen a saw, I'd stay away from vintage ones.

Snap On has ones that are just long strips with cuts in them for wrenches to go in. Kinda like this, but a little different.

I've had them in my box for years now. I never even used the 2-sided tape to hold them down. It's a lot more flexible than using a holder with a fixed layout. I have all my regular wrenches going up one pair and all my stubbies and random shit in another pair.

I recommend you go with the iFixit 54 Driver Kit its $35 dollars on amazon and will open up almost every you will need in the electronic department, and I would go for something more like Ryobi HP44L for you electric screwdriver, the Flipout you had post does seem too comfortable to use if you plan to do a lot with it. The ryobi and a 68 piece driver set on amazon is only $54 between that kit and the iFixit kit (which is the kit that your Vastar kit is copying) you should be about to do anything for common stuff around your apartment to all the electronic work you could think of. iFixit Ryobi Driver Ryobi Set


I just posted my "Basic Tool Kit" but I don't think you really need all that for what you want to do, pick up these key item as you get extra money or as you can to up grade what you have, Channellock Pliers Set, Estwing Hammer, Wera Screw Set, Milwaukee Tape Measure, and Milwaukee Utilty Knife. With all of this I can't think of anything that could slow you down in an apartment setting.

EDIT: grammar and Format

Get an antistatic wrist strap from amazon.

US: http://www.amazon.com/Static-Wrist-Strap-Discharge-Grounding/dp/B00530GDHG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409079935&sr=8-3&keywords=antistatic+wrist+strap

UK: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anti-Static-Wrist-Strap-Grounding-Discharge/dp/B004XBBYSY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409079970&sr=8-1&keywords=antistatic+wrist+strap

Then watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB5a3mSElSw

Just use an Easy out

https://www.amazon.com/InstallerParts-Network-Installation-Stripper-Screwdriver/dp/B008NXK0WO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1468278141&sr=8-6&keywords=crimper+combo

A kit like this, if you have Prime its 59 bucks.

>that goes away if i touch any metal part of my guitar

(Note: everything I say below is based upon one of the "metal parts of the guitar" being your strings. If I'm wrong, and touching the strings does not stop the noise, please say so)

First-off, it is not well understood by a good deal of players, but the fact the hum/buzz goes away when the strings are touched is exactly how your guitar is supposed to work, and is an indication that your guitar is properly grounded.

And second, they fact that your guitar is working this way tells us that the hum/buzz you hear is from Electromagnetic Interference (EMI). Pretty much every guitar suffers from this to some degree.

In the recording environment this EMI noise can be much more annoying than in a live performance environment. Your EMI problem can be the resort of incomplete shielding of your guitars electronic circuit, or environmental factor or both.

The hum/buzz will be worse with gain/distortion and anything that boost high frequencies. For some players, manipulation of their volume control is how the deal with noise when they don't have their hands on the guitar's strings. Some players manage to get an acceptable signal to noise ratio from shielding of their guitar.

Some players---and I do not recommend this for safety reasons---even have gone so far as to use a ground strap, which is a metal wrist watch type of band that has a cable that can be attached to grounded metal on the guitar:

https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Wrist-Strap-Grounding-Discharge/dp/B004XBBYSY

I've linked a long forum thread about guitar grounding. The page I've linked to has some chat about using a grounding wrist band, but it looks like reading the rest of pages of that thread might be interesting. It might also put a lot of wrong information in your head.

For instance, at the top of the page are the results of a poll on what causes the noise to stop when you touch the strings. The answer with the highest number of votes is incorrect, which pretty-much sums up the average advice the one can expect when asking about this type of situation.

http://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=146138.130

Another way to tackle this problem is to look for environment causes that can be eliminated, like electrically noisy equipment (light dimmers, electric motors, etc). The page linked below has some audio file examples of the various ways that noises can get into your signal chain:

https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/solving-guitar-noise-buzz-and-hum/

Just recently there was a post here about using power conditioners to limit noise caused by "dirty power":

https://www.reddit.com/r/Guitar/comments/d4j90r/question_gear_does_anyone_use_a_furman_power/

Thanks OP. That's a really cool tool you have made there. If it can get to New Zealand, this would be cool.

Oh, neat! I didn't even know Victorinox made this: https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-Small-Orange/dp/B00BFO2AF8/

This would be so much better than the flip out bit kit from the hardware store that fills up my pouch.

I use strips like these, but a little longer:

http://www.amazon.com/Ernst-Manufacturing-6015-Black-40-Tool-Wrench/dp/B005ZIS8QU/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420651424&sr=1-2&keywords=wrench+organizer

You can run them from the front all the way to the back of your tool box drawers; I probably have 4 or 5 complete sets organized in one drawer like that, and you can easily find the one you want just by looking.

Fire and rescue tool for close range and a monk's spade for keeping distance, as well as a spike-like weapon such as this for the much-to-close for comfort combat.



Of course, these assume traditional Walking Dead/Romero style zombies.

IMOH this is the best tool set around and at $161 you can't beat it. Other than 23mm it doesn't skip any socket sizes, which is rare in mechanic tool sets and all the sockets are 6 sided (not the 12 pointed ones that always rounds bolts) ,again, most mechanic sets only includ 12point sockets. The wrench set is kind of lame but other mechanic sets at that price point don't even include any. I'd buy two if I had the money.

Really, you could buy a socket set ( here )... the parts (another 25 for plugs, 15 for cap, 5 bucks for a rotor, 30 for wires, 6 for air filter, itll all be available at whatever autoshop is close) and watch a youtube video ( here )
and do it (and know how for future ones) for 180 bucks in an hour and a half or so on your first try. Just be sure to pay attention to how you take things off. What order and all. Every wire.


I learned how to do a tune up at 33 years old. After deciding I was done paying someone else to do it. I know how to maintain everything else I own. Why not my car?

How about this kit?? This seems have everything for sale and metric. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JN3FGA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X2a0BbM52DMBW

I am in Rogers, Arkansas

You need a drill, drill bits for metal, and an easy out kit.

Here is what I have it works well. Spray the bolts ahead of time with PB Blaster to help them break loose while you wait for the parts to come.

http://www.amazon.com/pcs-Easy-Out-Set-TAIE0739/dp/B0027B5GT0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414423258&sr=1-1&keywords=easy+out

My nephew recently moved out on his own and I got him this as a house warming present

STANLEY STMT73795 Mixed Tool Set, 210-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JN3FGA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ePPtzbSW68SA3

I'd recommend starting with something similar, a hammer, and maybe a good cordless drill.

But the best advice I can give is don't go out and buy a bunch of tools. When you have a project, buy the necessary tools for that project. Keep your tools maintained and organized, and in what will feel like no time you'll have formidable tool collection. If you just go out and buy a bunch of stuff you think you'll need, your likely to waste a lot of money on tools you'll never use.

And I really want to stress keeping your tools organized. There's nothing more frustrating than spending an hour searching for a tool for a ten minute job. (Speaking from experience)

I have seen pictures of these and would have rather used them than a torch to burn off lug nuts. The gotcha is the price. You need a set. Several different sizes can run you back a couple hundred dollars. I invested in a cheap torque wrench instead.

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Edit: Found an amazon link (not an affiliate link and I have never used this product): https://www.amazon.com/HANSON-Lugnut-Specialty-Extractor-54125/dp/B001ACPRFU

When I installed it in my uncle's house I did do it myself. It was expensive.

• Edgerouter X - $67
  
• UAP-AC-Pro - $128 (Bought 3 of these but it doesn't count for this calculation)
  
• Cat6 Cable (1000ft In Wall) - $150
  
• RJ45 Connectors - $9 (Didn't need this many but it's a lot more expensive if you buy less)
  
• Network Tool Kit - $60
  
  Total: $414
  
  You're right about the tools but once you get Cat6 wired up in your house when would you need to do it again? I don't think Cat6 is going away anytime soon.

This my friend.

way over your budget, but this thing is fantastic. Super light weight and packs plenty of tools.

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-Small-Orange/dp/B00BFO2AF8