(Part 2) Best lighting low voltage transformers according to redditors

So something like this could be installed?

http://www.amazon.com/LET-60-Class-Electronic-Transformer-Lightech/dp/B002RSOULS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

It has a temperature regulator, so that should help mitigate any risks of overheating. Do I need to worry about the amps?

The lamps came in plain boxes from a Habitat for Humanity restore, kind of like a thrift store for housing supply items. I really like the look, but it's definitely possible that they were originally designed for motorized residences, rather than normal housing.

And you've saved me again, as I'm pretty sure I would have been really confused looking for the bulbs for this at Home Depot. I can head to Crappy Tire instead, and I'm sure I can find them there.

According to that data sheet, you should be able to just hook up 12VDC and be good to go. Just make sure your power supply can provide enough amps. 0.6W per module would be 50mA @ 12V. So just count the modules and multiply by 50 to figure out how much current in mA you'll need, then add an additional 25% for safety.

EDIT: The above info is only valid if there isn't already an existing power supply hooked up to the modules.

EDIT 2: something like this would probably have more than enough juice to power all of them: Amazon

The power supply is 40w; each light consumes 8w. You can only run up to 5 on the supplied power.

If you’re willing to cut and splice a wire, you can get a different power supply and splice in the hue connector. Just make sure it’s 24V, CONSTANT VOLTAGE.

I currently have 22 lights running on this 200w power supply. The splicing and re-waterproofing took a total of 10-15 minutes.

Good luck

Sure! So, I'm currently overwhelmed with RGB LED strip wheels as it is right now, so they're from everywhere.

But, I've started to rely on 2 companies. One is Alitove, they have an Amazon store and an eBay store. Their a division of some large Chinese company, but all they do is make and sell LEDs - in all the usual formats. I've noticed that their strips seem to match the closest, no matter when you buy them - for me its a good sign. And their colors are really rich, especially their WS281x lights, just wish someone made a Z-Wave controller for the WS281x.

The other one is a SUPERNIGHT on Amazon. Don't know much about them, they appear to be a self-branded version of someones strips. Really good color reproduction. Though they are the ones that accidentally made me aware that you can buy an RGB light strip that is individual red, blue and green LEDs instead of the multichip 5050 packages we're used to lol.

As for power supplies, definitely recommend these guys - from 60 watt/5A, all the way up to 120 watt/12.5 amp.

So far, I've got a 60watt/5amp that's been running continuously for over a year at close to its max, with some bright cool white LEDs (Kitchen lighting), I've also got one of the 120w/12A supplies that's been running 24/7 for about 6 months now outside, running some WS2811 light strips. They are hard potted and stay really cool - I've had so many power supplies die trying to run a 10 meter length of white LEDs for any significant length of time.

In fact, I trust them enough that I'd almost mount them inside the wall next to the box, but I don't know if I could do it and still sleep at night.

So what I've been doing is using 4-gang old-work fiberglass boxes - 2 hour fire rated, they're pricey but you can but 2-3 or more 60watt supplies in a single one. I really wish they made these single-gang boxes with a 'pocket' in a larger size.

Honestly, it's overkill for sure - especially compared with what most elecchickens install things like this, from what I've seen. But I'd rather spend an extra $20 now rather than a fire later. Plus, if we ever sell out house, I don't have things like that hidden from people.

>I thought there might be a solution to power the camera locally via junction box without having an outlet for a wallwart given the rise in wifi usage. Seems like I have to find my own transformer and hard wire it.

a transformer will only get you a reduced AC voltage.

hardwiring a power supply to the lighting circuit is the least wired option.

but then you'll just leave the lighting circuit on?

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ4RFSS/

this guy would fit in a 4" square box.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ4RFSS/

would fit in a single gang.

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you could put a 3/4" mud ring on the box the existing light fixture is on, and probably have room to get the power supply in.

I believe this is the right match:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZNPM3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9pETDbH3YZ7CA

9-24v - 3a

Here are the specs.

The motor driver is a good match to the motor.

Now you need a 400 W, 12 V power supply.

Here is one: $ 30

Replace your link with this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LNNNHW/ref=asc_df_B072LNNNHW5488476/

Yours has extra affiliate information.

Just reply to this comment, or send us a message in mod mail to get it reapproved.

I don't have a mini-PC homelab, but I do have multiple power bricks for my SFF pfSense box, PoE switch, and a couple other devices. It's just kind of a mess in the rack, so a better solution would be great. I suppose the ultimate solution would be a central power brick with multiple outputs, but the only ones I know of that exist are for lower amps. And then there's the problem of multiple voltage outputs.

Maybe something like this 12v lighting splitter would work for several lower power devices.

EDIT: Probably the best solution would be a custom-built box with multiple 110v->12v/9v/5v selectable voltage circuit boards. Start with a 1U or small form factor PC case with power supply and tap into the 12v rails for input. Then split as needed and solder up some adjustable step-down regulators and dial in the desired voltage output. Wire those up to some toggle switches, with the output going to a few panel jacks, the 12v barrel kind.

This looks like it fits, but at that price you could probably buy something complete.

Lemonbest 5A LED Power Adapter Power Supply Transformer for 3528 5050 RGB LED Light Strips with Remote Controller LED Display, AC 100V to DC 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GKMQ5BD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tu8mDb8HK72M6

I used this Constant Voltage Power Supply and Low-Voltage Landscape Lighting Wire which can be bought at any hardware store or online. I did it by cutting 2’ lengths off the extensions that come with the lights and then splicing those into the Low-Voltage wire where I wanted each of the lights at. Then you just plug the lights in with their screw in adapter to the section you spliced in. As long as the power supply is plugged in you’re good to go. You can run 9 lights per power supply if I remember correctly, so I’m running 2 power supplies total. Haven’t had any issues in over a year.

It’s a 12v 6a power supply like this one

ZOKIN UL Listed LED Power Supply Adapter DC12V 6A 72W Transformers Switching Power Supply 110V AC to 12V DC For 3528 5050 2835 RGB Flexible LED Tape Strip Light, 72W Max, 6A Max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FD2VG7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S81CCb3086CYM

I replaced an older low voltage controller (mechanical timer) with a cheap 12V LED Transformer that provided enough wattage for my landscape lights:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9FTC77

I use a basic smart outlet and can control based on sunrise/sunset, etc. The transformer is mounted indoors, but I believe it is rated for outdoors.

I had previously purchased a very expensive outdoor transformer with an astronomical timer. The new setup is much cheaper and controlling the landscape lights via Google Home or mobile app is really nice. I am in the process of converting everything over to HASS.

I use an 12v rv water pump and a 12v power supply. The rv pumps are based on a diaphragm design and can handle a bit of debris going through them. I actually use an old computer power supply that you just have to mess with a little to perform the same function as the linked one. Just make sure your suction line is below your water level, it should stay primed.

I also have a Ring Pro and a 16V, 10VA transformer that isn't providing enough power to even allow the Pro to power up.

I've purchased a 16 Volt, 30VA transformer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R5UU0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

However, I also have cloth bound wires. Was curious if anyone has any thoughts on using these type of wires with a 16 Volt, 30VA transformer and if it's any concern. This is also making the assumption that the cloth is intact throughout the lines, which what i've seen is the case.

Motors are a variable load, so you will need a supply that can deliver a constant voltage for any current. My recommendation is to get a 12V supply of at least 500 mA like this one and an adjustable step down converter. Tune the step-down converter to 6V by turning the tiny knob with a large (1kOhm) load attached to the output before hooking up your motor. You won't need a breadboard, just wire it toghether. What are you making?

It should just turn on. You don't have the ON/OFF pin connected to the input voltage do you? That would turn it off.

Why use an isolated regulator instead of just adding in something like a 60W AC-DC 12v power supply for less than $15?

https://www.amazon.com/GALYGG-110V-220V-Universal-Regulated-Transformer/dp/B06XRBYN4Z/

Do you have a wiring diagram?

You could.

But there definitely are power bricks that can handle 16 drives. A 3.5" HDD like a Western Digital Red uses about 6.6w of power when under load.

I am not talking about shitty little walk warts btw but actual 12v bricks. Like laptop power supplies or the less sexy industrial. Aka AC-DC regulated switch power supplies.

example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRBN2L3/

I think this is a good idea! Yeah i dont think id be too upset about a couple dim spots if its like staring at the sun haha

how easily would I be able to wire this to LED driver and a wall outlet (american)

I made this diagram but i dont want to go messing around with outlet death wires

for cost reasons trying to avoid using one of these per strip

So I put in this ballast and have left the light switch on for a day now. However, there is no electricity coming through; the light doesn't light up and my multimeter doesn't show any voltage coming through. The lightbulb is good, I took it from another lamp.

Is this normal? Or, what else should I check?

I went with a 16v 30va transformer on amazon. This one. If your voltage is too low (previous was 16v 10va) then it could eventually kill your ring pro which is what happened to mine. Ran great for 5 months then one day i was installing a light switch on the same line and it didn't turn on for 3 days. Ring sent a new pro out that instantly turned on and has been running solid ever since.