(Part 2) Best metal & alloy raw materials according to redditors

First search result on Amazon is 40 g for $16.

If $32 is breaking your bank you're going to be in for a world of pain with rocketry.

https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-T-Slotted-Extrusion/dp/B001F0K4KA

The super basic kit:

Go to a hardware store and buy needlenose pliers and some steel wire and start making rings! You will need a mandrel to wrap coils on, and something to cut the coils apart. I would suggest a long 1/4" bolt and some diagonal cutters. You can also use a hacksaw to cut coils apart. Or, if you aren't up to cutting steel wire, get some copper, aluminum, or brass wire, since they are softer and easier to cut and form.

That was a goal, actually - I designed all of the parts and fittings to stay fully inside the extrusion frame, so it would be easy to enclose with simple flat panels on the exterior faces if I ever feeling like doing so.

You basically need all the vitamins for a Prusa i2 w/ LM8UUs, plus:

8020 parts:

3x 6' 10-series extrusion (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F0K4KA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

8x 4136 4-HOLE INSIDE CORNER GUSSET (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IA6QL8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

50x screws + nut plates (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZCM6MC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)


Additional hardware:

2x 8mm x 406mm smooth Z rods (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DWAAG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Printed parts

6x Rod holders (http://i.imgur.com/zk1gQLL.jpg)

1x X end (left) (http://i.imgur.com/7ToxJYT.jpg)

1x X end (right) (http://i.imgur.com/biE91KZ.jpg)

1x Z mount (left) (http://i.imgur.com/1hG4Wcr.jpg)

1x Z mount (right) (same, mirrored)

1x Y motor mount (http://i.imgur.com/jxyyNFa.jpg)

1x Y idler (http://i.imgur.com/QA9YvNy.jpg)

1x X carriage (http://i.imgur.com/LDBBF19.jpg)

1x X carriage belt clamp (http://i.imgur.com/ecbn6lq.jpg)

4x Y-axis LM8UU holders (http://i.imgur.com/HTFFC6S.jpg)

1x Y-axis belt clamp (http://i.imgur.com/MiQYodU.jpg)

1x RAMPs platform (http://i.imgur.com/klYRoBX.jpg)

a cross necklace made of gallium

gallium is a metal with a curious melting point at 30 degrees Celsius. This means that it will melt when it touches skin.

It's also nontoxic and relatively cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99%25-Pure-40-grams/dp/B0051GY9VO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342847972&sr=8-2&keywords=gallium

get him 40grams and let him have a blast

I would be more pro to vaping on something like 316LVM.

>...due to its "extremely high levels of purity and cleanliness"

I think at $3/foot that it had better bring more to the table than lower resistance and "extreme cleanliness". For that price I have a hard time imagining anyone giving up Kanthal. Of course if a coil of that would last for months and stay shiny and new the whole time then sign me up.

I have used the RGB led strips that you linked to. I currently have them under my cabinets. They have been there for over a year now and working just fine. I will make one suggestion if you are going this route. The double sided tape that is on these led strips do not hold up well. I would recommend using these housings just to make it look more professional and not worry about the double sided tape giving out.
Led Strip channel

Parts list (Part 2) from the imgur post:

>- 1x Coleman 6' 3-Prong Power Cable: $6 . 97 shipped with Prime (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OOMN88/)
>
>This cable is advertised as a replacement cable for power tools but it's been working fine to power the Mean Well power supply. 14AWG stranded wire rated to 1875W.
>
>- 1x 6-Pack 1m Litever Deep Square Trimless Aluminum Channels (LL-007-A): $49 . 99 shipped on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2)
>
>Solid channels overall, the white diffuser does a pretty good job of diffusing the hotspots from the individual LEDs. If I wanted a more perfect line of light, I would've gone with something a deeper than these but they are 15 . 5mm tall and the lip on my cabinets is .75" (19 . 05mm) so anything much larger and it would've stuck out which I wasn't looking to do.
>
>- 1x 50' roll of Southwire 18/7 thermostat wire: $26 . 12+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-18-7-Brown-Solid-CU-CL2-Thermostat-Wire-64170422/205717551)
>
>I don't really recommend going this route, it caused more of a headache than it was worth. Basically, I'd received all of the other parts and then realized the only wire I had lying around was 24awg so I went out to see what I could get locally. Solid core wire has its pros and cons but I learned pretty quickly that soldering it directly to the LED strips wasn't going to be a viable option because the solid core wire was so rigid that when I bent it, it'd rip the LED strip more often than not. I'd advise sticking with 18awg if you're planning on doing an amplified run like this but stranded wire will make your life a lot easier. That said, it worked and I'm not planning on changing it.
>
>- 1x Gardner Bender 22-10 AWG 6-Circuit Terminal Block: $6 . 28+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-6-Circuit-Terminal-Block-1-Pack-GTB-406/202522482)
>
>Literally everything else in this setup is soldered, I'm not a fan of using connectors when I don't have to but for modularity's sake, I used a terminal block for the 3 sections of under cabinet strips. It was cheap, quick and I bought it when I got the thermostat wire.
>
>- 3x Gardner Bender 1/2" Plastic Kwik Clip, White (4-Pack): $3 . 28+tax for each 4-Pack at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-2-in-Plastic-Kwik-Clip-White-4-Pack-GKK-1550/100090966)
>
>Used for cable management, they work fine. Probably could've gone with something a bit more professional but I wasn't trying to make this project any more expensive than it already was.
>
>- 1x Scotch 1" x 1 . 66 yards Extremely Strong Mounting Tape: $7 . 98+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414DC-SF/203405976)
>
>I probably used 2/3 of the roll. None of the aluminum channels where particularly heavy so I just placed a 2" piece every 6 inches or so. Holding up great so far. I could've used the mounting gear that came with the channels for the cabinets but I didn't want to make any permanent holes and I knew that I'd need something like this for under the granite countertop on the island anyway.
>
>
>
>Total cost for everything listed above was roughly $495 including tax and shipping.
>
>
>
>Stuff I had lying around:
>
>- Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing
>
>- Assorted sizes of ring terminals
>
>- Solder
>
>- Hot glue
>
>- Electrical tape
>
>- Zip ties
>
>- Rubbing alcohol (to prep surfaces for the adhesives)
>
>- Hue Dimmer Switch

​

So...if I undertand this correctly...you're saying I should buy some Medical 316LVM Stainless Steel wire from amazon? Blink once for yes twice for no.

Edit:speeeling

Google worked just fine for me

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Unpolished-Finish-Precision-Tolerance/dp/B00CNLXNW6

If you want to bring her back to life you can repair the frame pretty good with a mesh reinforcement and some epoxy on both sides.

You can also use duck tape and super glue.

I checked Amazon, found many copper sheets, not sure what size you need tho!
https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Sheet-Metal-12/dp/B00AKMNNX4 there are some options

Hardware cloth stainless steel mesh – Home Depot, Lowes, True Value, etc. It's a pretty common item sold in hardware stores. You can look online too if you can't find mesh that is small enough. Be sure it's galvanized stainless steel and smaller than 1/4" (but not so small that air has trouble going through something 'solid' – something like 4-5 mm seems sufficient).

Something like this maybe: https://www.amazon.com/Activists-Woven-4-5mm-Coarse-Stainless/dp/B07SXGTP2G/

I'd look in store b/c it tends to be far far cheaper.

I figured. It might be easier than trying to pour molten lead into however. Perhaps insert a [tungsten rod](Castlebar 3/16” X 2”, Grade 1008/C2, Ground Polished Chamfered, Premium 10% Cemented Tungsten Carbide Round Rod https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P8VTH5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GPiXCbAKHQG0X) inside the carbon fiber tube

And you can buy both gallium and a spoon mold on Amazon (and probably other places)

www.amazon.com/Gallium-Liquid-Metal-99-99-Melting/dp/B07MM31R3W

https://www.amazon.com/Gallium-Create-Disappearing-Bending-Melting/dp/B07XDM3NW4

Amazon, eBay, wherever. Brass rod stock in specific diameters is a bit beyond what you can find at the Home Depot. Fortunately, it doesn't take much.

Here is some 3mm brass rod stock that works great for Kwikset and Schlage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074W3W1B1

Technically, it's too big (.118 inches instead of .115 inches), but what's a few thousands of an inch between friends? ;)

Here are a few suggestions:

1. Instead of holding your dremel by hand, toss it into your hobby vise. This gives you greater control over how much material you remove and where.
   
   
2. Using the utility blade to give you a starting point to make a transition is a good idea, but it isn't easy to get a positive grip on the spinning brass. It can and does slip. A razor saw is ideal for this and you can make some nice serrations with it too.
   
   
3. I too have experienced running out of room on the pin because it is too close to the chuck. When you are that close, you can only make an outward bevel because the second you try to tip it in, you start filing down the chuck instead. Using old pins is a great way to level up on your technique. You can pick up some brass rod stock and cut each one into 3rds and backup the rod into the dremel as far as it goes and that will stabilize the brass and give you plenty of material to pull out and away from the chuck.
   
   
4. The quick change dremel chuck works great when you have a bunch of different sized bits to change out. However, on brass it tends to leave unwanted dents with the three prongs. The dremel collet set will not leave those marks. It is a cheap set and it is made from aluminum but I haven't had one break on me yet.
   
   I love, Love, LOVE jewelry files for shaping my pins! You can futz around with the different shapes to get some cool transitions. To polish off my pins and when I want to remove burrs from the final shapes, I cut my sandpaper into strips and glued it onto a popsicle stick. This lets me get up in there and also works great when you just need to remove a little more material. You can also wrap a little of the sandpaper over the edge and use that outside corner to push into the brass to make a tight inside corner on the brass. Here is a preview of some of the evil.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QUVRNW/

Amazon.

I have a bunch of lead sheets. They're the flexible kind, similar to what's inside the lead aprons you wear when you get an xray.

...I work with xrays sometimes and had a random small piece someone had cut off a large piece. They have lots of applications, actually. Hell, my aquarium plants have the bottoms wrapped in a little bit of lead. Makes them easier to anchor.

Brass is softer then the steel in your barrel. It will not scratch or damage the rifling.

A 9mm is .355 inches. So you want something a bit narrower.

464 Brass Round Rod, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, H02 Temper, ASTM B21, 0.3125" Diameter, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JP6DIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Y9c9wbWCKT77X

This would work fine. I would probably hit the edges with some Sand paper just so you don't cut your hands on a burr.

You can honestly find something at homedepot. You want it to take up as much room in the barrel as possible, so it doesn't get wedged between the bullet and the barrel.

I believe you can find caliber specific squib rods online but you will pay a premium on them.

If you have a rubber mallet I would use it just to make sure you don't mark up the barrel if you miss :P

You purchase Bismuth Here

Then you watch These videos

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JP6DIG

Needs a little polishing on the ends, but it's a great squib rod for 9mm and up. I might cut mine down to 8-10" instead of a foot long, but you don't want to go too short and hit your barrel with a hammer either.

How expensive are normal bombs? Didn't the MOAB cost like $16 million?

On the Wikipedia article, it says:

> The system described in the 2003 United States Air Force report was that of 20-foot-long (6.1 m), 1-foot-diameter (0.30 m) tungsten rods

On Amazon, you can buy a tungsten rod with a volume of 2.3 cubic inches and they say it weighs 187 grams. A rod as described in the wiki, would have a volume of 108573 cubic inches. Using the Amazon rod as a reference, the "rod from god" would weigh 8827 kg.

SpaceX says they can launch objects at a cost of $2,719/kg. That would be $24 million.

According the Wikipedia article, a Falcon 9 launch can carry a 22,800 kg payload to Low Earth Orbit and it costs $62 million per launch. If it brings 3 rods per launch, then that's $20 million per rod. Now, that's just the cost to get it into orbit. It doesn't include the cost of the tungsten or the satellite or control it, but we're not talking about crazy costs here.

Take a look at the cost of a nuke

http://www.ucsusa.org/publications/ask/2013/nuclear-weapon-cost.html

> It will cost $8 billion to $10 billion to refurbish 400 to 500 B61 bombs—about $20 million each.

So sure, maybe a rod from god would cost a bit more, but not a lot more. And they are far far more useful. You can't detect the launch. You can't shoot it down. It doesn't cause any radiation. I think it's a good idea.

EDIT:

You could also create bundles of these rods for more tactical situations. You don't always need to destroy a whole city block. Imagine a single satellite with a bunch of smaller rods as "bullets." Then you can destroy any individual building on Earth in just 15 minutes.

You can also order sheet metals from [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Precision-Ground-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CNLV7BK/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1377567087&sr=1-8) now. I used this on my LC for a while before switching back to directly printing on the heated bed. You should be able to get it in whatever dimensions you need.

Oh I was just finishing a quote. As to what one does with gallium, that’s up to the user. And you can buy it here.

fishing sinkers advertsied as 'lead free' are a cheap source these days.

Looks like $<10US on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Bismuth-Gram-Ingot-Chunk-99-99/dp/B00ZQC6W1I/ or try a site like http://www.buybismuth.com/#!shop/cqae

Judge I'll let you use my rifle for any testing any .308 rounds from you! Also if you can machine it here's some tungsten. Or you could pull some M855.

It's unavailable, https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B010QBL740/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And if you're in the states, good luck on Amazon, I couldn't find the exact same thing and the names are crazy, chanel, channeling, u shape, profile, track, like, jesus christ make your mind up people.

https://www.amazon.com/3-3FT-Aluminum-Channel-Track-installation/dp/B01MPWVE3E/ref=sr_1_91?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837459&sr=8-91&keywords=aluminum+led+channel

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2/ref=sr_1_174_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837521&sr=8-174-spons&keywords=aluminum+led+channel&psc=1

That's what I'd aim for, you want depth.

I followed this guy's instructions pretty much to the letter. I picked up some 12 gauge wire from a craft store and it's okay to start with but it's really soft, so maybe pick up a little just to practice with. I bought this 14 gauge wire which I really like. Much more sturdy, but also much more difficult to bend. The 12 gauge is usually available in a bunch of different colors though. I'm still just learning, have yet to make an actual "piece" but it's something to do when I have a few moments or while watching movies.

Here you go lads

I personally did this research recently and opted out of RGB and for high CRI strips that are very bright but very dimmable. Total cost was not as cheap as I had originally expected, but the end concept seems like it will come together well. Here's my equipment list (though in my case i've purchased multiple strips):

​

|16.5 ft 95 CRI Warm LED Strip|$99.00|https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/ultra-high-95-cri-led-strip-lights-for-home-residential?variant=5776159014941 |
|:-|:-|:-|
|24V 10A Power Supply|$19.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RYWZMH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AA0YO4F2UD50F&psc=1 |
|20 pack 3.3 ft Alu Channel|$46.90|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072VZSQ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AN8BOPYGQ9JVK&psc=1 |
|Shelly RGBW 2 Controller|$21.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N49TXLQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AFXZFGKJMX9E4&psc=1 |

​

This allows me to control four separate white strips with on/off and dimming capabilities but does not accommodate for a physical switch, though it easily could be incorporated into this setup.

The varnish might burn off, that may still leave things behind. I'd rather uses something like this which is marketed for engineering/welder rather than a consumer product marketed to arts and crafts people. The arts and crafts market is often full on misrepresentation. I'm an art major, and I've been up and down that road.

Amazon sells various types of metal plates that are precision ground. Here's aluminum in various thicknesses and square sizes. Here's steel. Pieces of thick plate glass can probably be had for pretty cheap if you have a glass shop nearby. Amazon's plate glass can be kind of expensive. If you can find someone tossing out an older 35-55gal fishtank you might be able to salvage a piece of glass from either the front or the back. Don't bother with the piece that makes the bottom as that will be tempered. Newer tanks in those sizes have thinner glass but it might still be serviceable.

Copper. A few challenges but the best cooling, especially for a tiny form factor with poor air cooling potential.

Copper Sheet Metal - 12" x 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKMNNX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GuhwCbF1MHDE8

Still can't be sure it's exactly what I ordered, but this is a start in the right direction I found with Google
I'm searching fuckcombustion for info, but I'm sure any fine screen would be perfect.

hunhun 10-Pack 6.6ft/ 2Meter Plus-Size U Shape LED Aluminum Channel System with Milky Cover, End Caps and Mounting Clips, Aluminum Profile for LED Strip Light, Special for Philips Hue Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V499JHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vMT1DbYV7922F