(Part 2) Best network & cable testers according to redditors
We found 362 Reddit comments discussing the best network & cable testers. We ranked the 82 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![[UPGRADED] CloverTale Network Tool Repair Installation Kit, Ethernet POE LAN Cable Tester Computer Maintenance Coax Crimper Tool for RJ-45/11/12 Cat5/5e with Connector Accessories](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51rSyvAtJeL.jpg)
Cable tester
Flashlight (yes I know you can use an app on your iPhone)
Cable crimper and terminators
edit: to amplify what /u/flatlandinpunk17 said, I meant have a real flashlight, the app won't do.
Multimode fiber is laser now as well for 10gig+. Just stop looking into concentrated light sources. Your eyes are not worth whatever your company is too cheap to spend. It doesn't tell you anything. Buy a cheap visible fault detector, a more expensive light meter, or a $10k+ OTDR/Analyzer.
http://www.fiberoptics4sale.com/c/Visual_Fault_Locator.html
http://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-DTX-1800-120-CableAnalyzer/dp/B00026V6CI/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-mode_optical_fiber#Types
> The migration to LOMMF/OM3 has occurred as users upgrade to higher speed networks. LEDs have a maximum modulation rate of 622 Mbit/s because they can not be turned on/off fast enough to support higher bandwidth applications. VCSELs are capable of modulation over 10 Gbit/s and are used in many high speed networks.
http://enterprise.netscout.com/network-testing/linkrunner-network-connectivity-tester
I have the version of this made by fluke. Works great and can also test cable runs and has some other nice features.
this is a cheaper option: https://www.amazon.com/NETSCOUT-LSPRNTR-300-LinkSprinter-Distance-Indication/dp/B00UD6G2OY/
There's a couple possibilities. One is that one of the ports is bad (either the one on the router or the one on the switch). Just for shits and giggles try different ports on each. The next thing to check is less fun, you need to get a network cable tester. Something like this (not an endorsement) https://www.amazon.com/UEETEK-Ethernet-Broadband-Connection-Capability/dp/B07557FRMQ just to check and make sure the cable is working. If the ports are both working then the cable isn't.
This is the cheapest one I’d recommend
Docooler 4-in-1 Remote RJ11 RJ45 USB BNC LAN Network Phone Cable Tester Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQH4XPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0.zPCb5YJRBKF
Just have to keep good batteries in it otherwise it’ll show everything as fail.
If you have a few bucks more, this is what I’d recommend on the sub $75
Noyafa D3IN0004 NF-308 Network Telephone Audio Cable Length Tester Remote Identifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5W9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jfAPCb7MMSJ7F
Past that, then Klein tools are a better deal as they’re are reliable as fuck.
Klein Tools VDV526-052 RJ45 Tester, Continuity Tester, Data Cable Tester, LAN Scout Jr. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CI9NRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RgAPCb5P1B8X6
> If I'm lucky, the field outlet will be labelled. If it's not, and I want to pair test back to the patch panel, there is an awful lot of guessing involved back at the rack to find the right switch/patch panel port.
This is what your toner is for.
> The F-Set is useless as far as I can tell in this scenario, because if the circuit is connected all the way to the switch (which it most often is), it is shorted and I just get a constant error tone from the F-Set.
You might try carrying around a tiny 5-port ethernet switch to connect to the port to see if it gets link.
> I came across an ad for this Shark Jack thing, first time I knew this kind of thing existed. Does this, or anything like it, make it possible to report the switch port number to me in the field?
You don't want that device. That's a network security analyst's device.
You want something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/NETSCOUT-LSPRNTR-300-LinkSprinter-Distance-Indication/dp/B00UD6G2OY/
A brief disclaimer:
The LinkRunner and LinkSprinter products were developed by Fluke Networks, and are/were excellent devices.
Fluke sold that entire business unit to NetScout like 8 or 9 years ago.
A year or so ago, NetScout just sold the business unit to a Private Equity firm, and nobody knows for sure exactly what is going to happen.
But even if the company goes belly-up, they are still good products, and should keep on working even if the company dies or re-brands again.
This Patch panel is wall mounted just like yours, and has 12 spots available. It's hard to tell how many cables you have exactly but that would be a good start.
You would mount it just like the one in your picture, but it would give you an ethernet port on the front. You would take those ethernet ports and attach them to a switch with a CAT5e or above cable.
The tools you'll need to do this are:
You would realistically cut all the wires off the block and use the above tools to make them into ethernet ports.
This is great for many things including producing test reports.
Fluke Networks CIQ-100 CableIQ Network Cable Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RWLCX89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sZxJDbQ1C632V
Holy whoa. I'm shocked those work at all.
You MIGHT be able to throw a computer in the middle and log traffic on WireShark, but that will take time and ultimately will be a much more vague answer than a cable analyzer's yes/no.
As far as analyzer / certifiers go, I think the Fluke CableIQ is probably one of the less expensive models since it doesn't do 10Gbit or fibre out of the box. That being said, it's still the better part of $2k.
As /u/IAdminTheLaw suggested, a good option may be to hire a contractor to test and certify. If you can woo a structured wiring company they might be willing to come out and test a few lines for free, even.
First thing's first. Inspect the termination on both sides. The majority of problems aren't going to be somewhere in the middle of the cable unless it's something super obvious like a rat eating through it. If you're strapped for cash there are ultra cheap $10 cable mappers out there that don't tell you anything other than which pin goes to which other pin. There are also decent $20 toners with a wiremap built in.
With some cheap tools and actually inspecting the termination you should be able to identify the majority of issues. If all you're trying to do is get a reliable gigabit link it's good enough. If it's terminated to spec, then don't worry about it.
A plus side to cheap tools, you can buy a couple so even if it starts getting flaky on you you can just swap it out.
https://www.amazon.com/CT01-Multifunction-Telephone-Collation-Continuity/dp/B01N7KD6A2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518207212&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+tester
When in doubt Tone it out.
From there if nothing else you will be able to build a map as to where everything goes. Find out if red really is telephone or perchance crossover and you can clean up this mess without guessing.
Did you try google? "cat6 cable certifier"? You might want to consider rental options, they can be kind of expensive.
If they're already plugged in to a switch, get a Linksprinter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UD6G2OY
https://www.pockethernet.com/ will do cable test as well as a bunch of other stuff. I use one and like it also have a netprowler https://www.amazon.com/T3-Innovation-Prowler-Cabling-Advanced/dp/B01DGDGCN6 it does a good job too. The pockethernet is alot more convient just keep it in my laptop bag.
I agree, build you own kit. Below is my take. Know that some of those tools are not for every day use in networking, but who can resist getting more tools? Also, if you get all of these I realize it will be over $200. So, just use this list as a guide not a definitive list.
BAGS
ETHERNET TOOLS
SCREWDRIVERS
PLIERS and WRENCHES
POWER
MISC
SUPPLIES
amazon + paladin
http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-4909-SureStrip-Non-Impact-Punchdown/dp/B0008F5VA6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1323570620&sr=8-4
http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1574-Testing-Installed/dp/B0002W3A6M/ref=pd_sim_hi_1
Otherwise you're into the 200+ range.
Our network guy uses a Fluke WiFi analyzer, something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-AirCheck-WiFi-Tester/dp/B003JZ076U
This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:
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Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection
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These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/
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This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/
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And this is the tester that I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/
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I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)
https://www.amazon.com/T3-Innovation-Prowler-Cabling-Advanced/dp/B01DGDGCN6
screen /dev/ttyUSB0 9600), wifi scanning/pen-testing/rouge AP locatingother tools & spare parts for house work would be
EDIT: formatting, and some back story - a coworker and I made a "networking tool-kit" that we would ship to job sites prior to travelling. It was useful to have, so I basically recreated it for myself at home.
I'm clearly missing something in my toolkit which makes it easier to slot each strand of the wire into the correct groove in the connector. Getting those little fuckers in the right spot took 99% of the effort.
On a semi-related note, this has been one of the most useful things I've ever bought, hands down.
I will write up some more specific feedback because I am interested in seeing the Pockethernet get better, and thanks for telling me about long-pressing the measure button.
To be clear though, I wasn't comparing the Pockethernet to the AT 2000. I was comparing it to the Fluke MicroScanner 2 for $440 which I own, and the T3 Net Prowler for $730, which I might have purchased instead of the Pockethernet.
Hardware criticisms:
Make sure all internal connectors are fully seated. My battery came unplugged. Make sure that the plexiglass protection film is removed. And at least in my case, the plastic on the wiremap/loopback tester is so loose that I had to take it off to use the tester.
App Bugs (iPhone):
I experience frequent crashes. Usually it seems when I leave and return to the app, or when I save results to Dropbox using the "Send" feature. This has persisted from an iPhone 6s Plus, to a brand new installation on a brand new iPhone X.
There is also a bug where the bottom half of the app disappears, or becomes covered in a white rectangle, and I am no longer able to scroll. This might be from the app trying to hide itself where the keybaord appears. Only way to fix is to quit and relaunch the app. Very frustrating.
App Workflow:
App flow should probably be like this: First HOME screen is a grid of icons for PRESET TESTS and an icon for a CUSTOM TEST. PRESET TESTS should be user-defined groups of frequently run tests. They should be icons, because that way more fit on the screen. Clicking on a PRESET TEST should take you to the RESULTS screen.
The RESULTS screen should only show the test results of the tests you just ran. It should have some persistent icons at the bottom of the page, that include a couple of selectable PRESET tests, as well as RETEST, CUSTOM, and HOME. This will make it easy to always quickly run a test.
The RESULTS screen should have the option to save results to a DATABASE. Often I will run additional tests for an outlet in the future, and I want the ability to EXPORT all of the tests from one outlet together, not have a separate PDF for each group of tests I ran on each outlet. The PDF export should only show the results of tests that were run.
If you instead clicked CUSTOM TEST on the HOME screen, you should be taken to a grid of icons with all possible tests. Check your desired test icons, click TEST, and be taken to the same RESULTS page as before.
There should be an interface for viewing the test results in the database, and deleting of specific tests for specific outlets.
This would make the Pockethernet interface much closer to Fluke's, Ideal's, and T3's interfaces, and much more useful.
Thanks!
Like this one I ordered, or something else?
Thanks for the insight! This one is a tad expensive but seems to include a punch tool too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JR50X5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A10L0W8BF9BRZI&psc=1
Here's the one I got from Amazon. Also comes with a MB tester and cable tester.
SOLVED
Thanks everyone! I bought a proper punch tool and all the other tools for only $15 on amazon, worked great! Network cable tester was a lifesaver as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSWF2CL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, but the tester is $10,000, so DIYers don't have one.
Major plant install usually requires testing before the installer gets paid, so things get pushed back.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JR50X5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I recently ordered this - its been working miracles!!
Tube dimensions 6"x3' - Recommended to me by the guy who designed it. The speaker had really good movement at first by itself, but didn't move the beads themselves.
Tone generator:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072LHMME/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Driver:
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pfa330bt-mini-audio-amplifier-with-bluetooth-90w--310-2658?turntosku=310-2658&turntoEmailType=rseFollowUp&turntoRseFollowUpNum=1&turntosuid=TkMAaUsZ&transId=797771&reviewStartAction=shareAPhoto&turntoflow=review
Speaker:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa130-8-5-full-range-pa-driver--295-010?turntosku=295-010&turntoEmailType=rseFollowUp&turntoRseFollowUpNum=1&turntosuid=TkMAaUsZ&transId=797771&reviewStartAction=rateIt&starSelected=0&turntoflow=review#turntodone
Show him this link to show that he's actually getting a bargain at $6,995.
This would work: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-AIRCHECK-Operating-Temperature/dp/B003JZ076U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374507940&sr=8-1&keywords=fluke+aircheck
However, I'm assuming you don't have $2,000 lying around.
You're welcome. Paladin (and their cheaper entry-level Datashark brand) also has some decent offerings if you want something more "name brand" but still inexpensive.
Paladin:
Crimpers
Stripper
Tester
The Paladin stripper works really well; I think I prefer that one to the cheap Monoprice one I purchased (though it gets the job done). Both are adjustable for different thickness wire / sheathing.
Datashark:
Crimpers
Striper
Tester
The Datashark crimpers lack a ratcheting mechanism, so I'm not a huge fan of them, but a coworker owns a pair and they work fine. The testers from both are nearly identical, and don't really offer any more functions than the cheap no-name import ones do (except perhaps a better warranty).
This is the best way to do it, however, if this tool is above your budget, consider a cheaper toner and a second person. One person goes to each drop (have a map labeled out ahead of time) and plugs in toner send. Other person scans each drop and labels or pops them into the predetermined spot. Should only take a few minutes and can be done on the cheap.
This is your magic bullet:
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MicroScanner-2/dp/B00Q6Y1B0C
Connect the big unit to the line you want to trace and put it in tone mode. Use the wand to hunt down tge right cable. Then attach one of t he dongles to the run and the meeter will tell you how long the cable is (withinn a few feet of accuracy), if there is a short or other trouble states as well as other details about the cable. I can't remember if this model will tell you max data rates or not.
Depending on how many people are on your team, a Fluke tasting meter and toner probe is worth its weight in gold.
My old supervisor gifted me their CQ100 kit to help me diagnose and fix a few undocumented dumpster fire networks under the assumption that if I got the jobs done, the fluke was mine even if I left the company.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SSX5PE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EMwLDbCZP7PB1
If you don’t have any laying around, I would also buy a few 3750 catalyst switches off eBay and give them to the team to take home abs learn on if you think that would be beneficial. I’m always mentoring our juniors and teaching them just the basics of getting into a switch to look at logs or setup basic configuration has proven to be a huge help. Same with firewalls. I own a Fortigate 60E as my old supervisor bought me one of those to learn in and then deploy them at client sites. Again it was a relatively small investment as it saved him having to hire a dedicated firewall guy for my region.
I might be able to justify this one, just need to be able to assure them it's going to last
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-KIT-Network-Tester/dp/B0013FGUQO/ref=pd_bxgy_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000QJ6S06&pd_rd_r=RSDSVHQHEF15DXFDY0H6&pd_rd_w=Qv1bB&pd_rd_wg=ZAR4L&refRID=RSDSVHQHEF15DXFDY0H6&th=1
Are you getting a link indication on the computer?
On Windows 10, goto, Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> Change Adapter Settings
Goto the "View" menu and change to "Details"
Find your Ethernet adapter and tell us what the "Status" is.
Is it "Enabled", "Disabled", or "Network Cable Unplugged"?
If it is Disabled, Right-click it the select "Enable" - I've seen some laptops that have function keys that allow a user to disable it from the keyboard - and some (me included) accidentally disable it. Mostly this happens for WiFi.
If it show Enabled - goto a command prompt and type: ipconfig /all and share that with us.
If it shows, "Network Cable Unplugged," then your initial thought of your Ethernet connection is the appropriate troubleshooting path.
What is the, " Laundry room junction box?" Are you referring to a Patch Panel?
If it is a patch panel to which you are referring , did you trying changing the Ethernet cable from it to the switch?
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On the switch, are you getting a link light indicator?
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When you change the switch port to the working computer, do you now get a link light on the switch?
If it really is a bad cable in the wall, you'll probably want to do a visual inspection to see if any of the individual wires have come free (creeped) out of the punch down outlet. If you see one or more has grab a small screw driver and re-punch them down. You may have to remove a plastic cap over the wires to get a visual.
Can you run a cable directly to the switch? If not, can you move the computer near the switch and test directly connected to the switch?
If all things point to it being the cable behind the wall, you can get a testing tool to determine which wire of the cable is errant.
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You can get a basic "Ethernet Tester" for about $9. But, if I were you and considering you may have more repairs to do, I would opt for something like the following:
https://smile.amazon.com/CloverTale-Installation-Maintenance-Connector-Accessories/dp/B07CSWF2CL/ref=sr_1_16?crid=38184207QCRIG&keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1557468409&s=gateway&sprefix=ethernet+test%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-16
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If you find out that the cable is bad, i.e. someone put a screw through it hanging a photo frame. You could possibly use the current "bad" cable as pull string to pull a new cable back to the "Junction Box"
But I digress, and I would recommend running through this troubleshooting flow before jumping to conclusions.
Let us know what you find out.
It wouldn't hurt to get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TL-PTG2-Generator-Speaker-Polarity/dp/B0072LHMME/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1457592521&sr=8-8&keywords=tone+generator
You hook it up to the speaker wire terminals that you aren't sure where they lead, and it will send a tone to play on the speaker connected on the other end. Could be a good way to identify exactly what everything is.
One thing to be careful of with outdoor/extra basement speakers wired to your home theater receiver is frying your receiver. Some receivers have dedicated Zone B preouts or actual amplified zones, but some rookies make the mistake of just hooking those speakers up together with their fronts, which is a sure way to shorten the life of your receiver.
With the 8 speakers, 7 wires thing.. I think that's what the original home owner MAY have done... Let me know what you find.
As far as having the family room and basement play the same thing or be able to choose, that can get tricky and expensive. Being able to play the same thing either requires a receiver with 2 HDMI outs, which is rare outside of high end equipment OR an HDMI Matrix, which may be the better option. Depending on what existing equipment you have, outside of the TV that was left, I would PROBABLY do this:
Family room, have full surround sound setup. HDMI Out of my receiver would go into an HDMI Matrix that would send one HDMI to the Family Room TV and the other downstairs into the basement.
Basement, I would just hook the HDMI from upstairs into another receiver along with whatever sources I wanted downstairs. This way the basement can mirror what the family room is playing or play its own independent sources.
As far as the extra basement speakers and outdoor speakers, it depends how much music flexibility you'd like, but either Zone B receivers or maybe even a Sonos Connect, since they have Audio Ins so they can also play what your receivers are playing.
Ended up researching into a bag and eventually found one I think will work well.
I will link to everything I've found on amazon. I have found others on our distributors website. Hopefully this will help others put together something as well!
Bag
SATA Adapter
Toolkit
Toner/Fox and Hound
Small LED Flashlight
Velcro Wire Ties - Zip ties are awful
Network Kit
External HDD
Analog Phone - For testing Fax Lines mainly
There's more, such as cables and things, but everyone should be OK with figuring that out for yourselves. Total the kit (with cables and stuff included) is only about $370.91 per technician.
Hope this helps someone!
Not really. The standard is from Fluke but it's $$$. All the cheaper ones will only check for continuity and not actually test the line quality. You could probably test all the lines before putting the walls up by using iPerf to make sure you're getting gig or 10 gig speeds.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-100-Cable-Tester/dp/B00Q6Y1B0C/
https://www.amazon.com/NETSCOUT-LinkSprinter-Network-Tester/dp/B00I7KSTYO
I've read good things about Pocketethernet.
https://www.pockethernet.com/
Good Device to own and diagnose ethernet cords.
I have this and used it for the exact same thing and it worked flawlessly.
As for checking things once they're wired, I found this to be invaluable:
http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1574-Testing-Installed/dp/B0002W3A6M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1321384678&sr=8-5
Something like this, I believe.
PAC TL-PTG2 Tone Generator and Speaker Polarity Tester with RCA Cable Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072LHMME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YutkDbXV8K0HV