I bought some black rubber sheets from Amazon, something like this https://www.amazon.com/6x6-Inch-Neoprene-Plumbing-Material-Protection/dp/B018H9CCPG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482726076&sr=8-2&keywords=black+rubber+sheet.

Cut the sheets down via exacto knife or box cutter. Two strips of 5mm x ~8.0 or ~8.5cm(this part can be adjusted).

I used Gorilla glue to glue them down, specifically the gel kind. I started near the top and then worked my down towards the curved edges on the bottom.

The end result looks like this: http://imgur.com/a/PSneJ

I loved the grip prior to doing this but the wobble drove me crazy, hope this helps. You can find the sheets in stores like Home Depot as well in the plumbing section but may not be black or as cheap.

Hey sorry for asking this here instead of in a new thread, but for reflectix, do you know if there's any smaller option to buy? I'd like to insulate the back and sides of my 30 gallon, but ass the rolls I'm seeing are like 25 feet.

I did see this reflectix tape stuff, but would that work as well considering I'd have to overlap?

Hardware stores sell a close cell foam that's gray for insulating pipes to reduce temperature swings or prevent the from freezing.

Search "Gray water line insulation" https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-Thickness-Nitrile-Rubber-Resistant/dp/B07MTJ9R8Y

Again thanks for the reply. The "medical device" label does complicate things for sure.

I just bought some aerogel tape to test out. My idea is rings of tape starting halfway up and getting closer together the closer it gets to the end of the hose.

roVa Flex Aerogel Insulation Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SQVXSD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0trVCbMAB4ENE

Took me forever to figure this out. It’s not easy finding parts for the little three inch pipe. I ended up using the transition plate listed below with high temp insulation between it and the roof. Then on the roof I installed one of these high temp silicon rain guards. Also, if you are looking for a chimney cap Home Depot sells a cheap one that was recommended to us by cubic mini. We painted the stove pipe and chimney cap black using high temp paint.

176203 3" Ceiling Support/ Firestop-... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHWAQK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Insulation, Wool, 0 to 1200 Degrees F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZI4T1U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

3 Silicone Hi-Temp Pipe Flashing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792PT94W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.homedepot.com/p/100396919

VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here's my best suggestion: Take your passenger seat out, run it in through the trunk tail first. A 3 definitely has the interior length to do it, and since you're going alone you don't need the passengers seat.

As for scratching it with straps: Buy some pipe insulation. It's closed-cell foam tubing that can wrap around the straps and deform around the car. Use it under the board and on the straps where they contact the body panels. This will work great if you're only doing a week, but is in no way a long term solution. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ft-Polyethylene-Pipe-Insulation-Wall/dp/B007R7VNAA

> Ahh okay yes that makes sense, what do you usually use for insulation?

Foam pipe insulation works well, or a few wraps with Reflectix works well. Reflectix also looks really nice, taped up with foil HVAC tape.

Sure.

Step 1

Step 2

I found a similar product on Amazon and it states that the foam is made of polyethylene.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Foam-Pipe-Insulation-Pack-50/dp/B001AU09VO

It's literally raw balsa wood.

https://www.amazon.com/6x6-Inch-Neoprene-Plumbing-Material-Protection/dp/B018H9CCPG/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018H9CCPG&pd_rd_r=457NFRVKE0ZY1WA2ZHW5&pd_rd_w=ehRBM&pd_rd_wg=UNP8G&psc=1&refRID=457NFRVKE0ZY1WA2ZHW5&dpID=316g3BYm-AL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

That's the rubber sheets I use. I cut it into little pads that rest along the lid. It's really nothing fancy and looks pretty ratchet. I would post pics but I am out of the country for a few months.

The reason I use balsa wood is it's light and cheap. I used to use sheets but I didn't like the weight they put on knobs, sliders, etc.

Amazon

im in the process of deciding how i want to attach this to mine!

also going to go find something like this in a store to split open and put around the edges that make contact with my face to soften that up a bit. Also I am going to find a sheet of foam that i can cut down to size and put right where your forehead hits the cardboard. down

Bought a swagman xtc rack when I bought my hitch from etrailer a few months ago. They're around ~$215 or you can get the cheaper swagman xc for ~$100 (same thing, but xtc is the update with nicer platforms). They both had around 1000 reviews at 4.5 stars and I've had no problems with mine.

I bought curt's bike rack support strap and it made the rack solid with no worries about wobbling. Just took it on a 5hr road trip with 2 road bikes driving at ~80mph. I could do 85-90 but it would wobble a little so I stuck around 80.

To combat the scratching the frame problem I bought pipe insulation (aka pool noodles) for $5 and put them on over the top tubes so no worries about the rack scratching anything.

Just be aware that the rack can only fit tires <= 2.5inch or else you need to buy the wider platforms from amazon which are like $15 for a pair or something if you have a fat bike.

I have the enclosed one, and it is definitely pretty ping-y out of the box (I noticed it even with tactile switches). It's pretty easy to fix, though, by gluing some dense foam rubber to the inside of the bottom. Worked like a charm, and added some nice heft to the board (though the enclosed steel case is definitely heavy enough on its own).

Though I did buy mine before they were making the aluminum ones... if I was going to do it again I would probably go with one of those.

Here's an example. They come in various sizes. They have a split along the length so they can be opened up and flattened out, as seen in the costume.

boy that's really something. these are the same type of "kits" you'd find at a local hardware store. i just ordered a kit with m3-m4-m5 nuts bolts and washers, then another kit with m3-m4-m5 hammer nuts! plus, i got some rubber sheets in case i want to use them to cut to size for things like the stock part cooling fan, the y-axis brace where it touches the frame, and even the new squash ball feet i just mounted this morning! i'm not sure if the lengths all match up to what i want, but i suppose i could just find some longer/shorter if need be.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018H9CCPG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0799KSXN9

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z94V83

I also attached the probe to the side of the carboy insulated from the air temp using this:

http://www.amazon.com/Itp-Self-Seal-Pipe-Insulation-Tee/dp/B00100230E/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394751000&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=tubular+pipe+insulation+tee


I've heard John Palmer say that his tests showed that the difference in temperature between the surface of the vessel and the center of the wort is less than 1 degree.

You can try to cut some rubber pieces to place between the bracket and case to provide vibration isolation. Pretty cheap to get a small sheet on amazon and give a try.

It looks like pipe insulation. You can repair or replace it.

In is either one of these two.

Pipe Insulation Inexpensive

Pipe Insulation - a little more money

Might I suggest using PVC pipe foam to cover that. https://www.amazon.com/ft-Polyethylene-Pipe-Insulation-Wall/dp/B007R7VNAA?th=1&psc=1

I use these https://www.amazon.com/ft-Polyethylene-Pipe-Insulation-Wall/dp/B007R7VNAA

2 inch pipe insulation exists: http://www.amazon.com/Pipe-Insulation-Semi-Slit-In-Ft/dp/B007R7VNAA

I made my canoe roof ready ( and much quieter in the water when I rest my kayak paddle) by gluing Pipe foam insulation from the hardware store onto the length of the canoes rim. It usually needs replacement once a year.

Another thing i did to facilitate tying the canoe to the car was to install small wire loops on the structural beams of the underside of my Hyundai front and back. I had fixed length ropes on the rear of the canoe with large clips on them that would clip to those loops, leaving only two tie downs with truckers knots on the front. I also usually used two ratchet straps through the open rear doors at the mdsection of the canoe also. ( don't cinch them too tight!)

I have that same one (or one that looks just like it) that we used last winter (I didn't see any warning about using it on hoses on mine).

I didn't have any issues with it, but it was only below freezing a dozen or so nights (maybe 8 that were in the teens), and rarely below 30 once the sun was up.

I taped it to the hose every couple of feet with duct tape, and then put [pipe insulation] (http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-50150-Insulation/dp/B002JFWDU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448941843&sr=8-1&keywords=foam+pipe+insulation) over the hose and the tape.

They have a thermostat on them so that they only turn on under a certain temp (40 IIRC), so it's possible that the hose didn't spend much time that low (due to the insulation).