(Part 3) Best powersports batteries according to redditors

He probably didn't stick a bare li-ion battery right in there.

A product that exists is lithium ion batteries and circurty in a standard battery case to make it compatible.

Something like this http://www.amazon.com/YTZ14S-Z14S-Lithium-Sealed-Battery/dp/B00DCXIJJG

Actually, a kilowatt hour for deep cycle is about 230 dollars still (for consumer purchase):

http://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Battery-40b-55lb-Newport-trolling/dp/B0042QD2PS

This is at 12v. 12v * 85ah = 1020 watts. If deep cycle isn't there yet, Lithium sure won't be for a long time. I cannot find this battery anywhere else for much less--ebay is even selling them for 219.

I think we are a very long way off from powering homes off grid with Lithium technology, and getting the same results of on-grid use.

If that doesn't work, than you can get them on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-Battery-479100-BATTERY-BOLT/dp/B006B1YBZM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462328175&sr=8-4&keywords=Yuasa+nuts

Then do this!.

I know standard AAA membership does NOT include motorcycle towing, however you can add it on for $35/year (including membership fees). I don't know of any other separate services.

For a cheap GPS unit - ebay or newegg.com. TomToms are quality units and tend to be cheaper than Garmins. I got my TomTom One for < $100. You can get a cigarette light adapter for your bike (if you have a battery tender, you can get one that plugs right into the connectors for that) to charge phone/gps/etc. Just go to your local dealership and they should have seomthing like this.

As for tools: basic tools as you mentioned mentioned. Tire repair kit if you're worried about breaking down. Zip ties. Plexus instead of Windex for your faceshield.

Rotor lock will probably be the easiest type to carry, but know that if someone wants your bike enough they will get it, especially in LA. Make sure you have theft insurance. Don't forget to take the rotor lock off when you go to take off in the morning :)

I just did a 100 mile straight highway ride last week with a throttle boss and it made a HUGE difference in the stress in my wrist. I highly recommend it or something similiar.

Most important part - have fun! Explore. If you're giving yourself 4 days to get there, take your time and see the sights. Get lost. Find some good roads to hit up. Take pictures. Etc etc

Hope this helps
2 12V Photoelectric relays
12V motor
6mm bore pully to match motor shaft
Project box
2 limit switches
Solar panel
Battery
If not solar powered. Aka no solar panel or battery

If you have any other questions let me know I am at work and I will answer what I can on my phone

Edit: I forgot a pully to run the rope from, but the motor I linked has so much torque you could go direct no problem, and lumbar to build the door. I estimated about 10$ for wood. I used all treated, as that's what I had laying around, but its probably not necessary as most of the door on my design was in the coop. I can make you a wiring diagram as well if you are interested. That reminds me you should use 4 zener diodes (just because you only need 4 doesn't mean you shouldn buy a 100 for future projects :) also if you goto an electronics store you will pay 5-6$ for 6 diodes) to stop flash back through the whole circuit from the reversing of polarity with the motor.

I own a 72 cb350 too. This is the battery I put in mine.
BikeMaster TruGel Battery - MG12A-4A1 MG12A-4A1 HONDA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038HYYG8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.bSgvb0VD66PR

Basic trickle charger is the best you can do, but lead acid batteries just like to die after a while. For a bike, since the batteries are smaller, you can install a lithium ion retrofit battery without spending a fortune like you would for a car.

The LiIon retrofit batteries have their own charge controllers built in so you can't over- or under-charge them, and they last longer, weigh less, and are generally more better.

EDIT: Just found this on amazon, for cheaper than a genuine Yuasa AGM replacement - https://www.amazon.com/YTX4L-BS-4L-BS-Lithium-Sealed-Battery/dp/B00BM7QEIC no idea if it's any good though, buy at your own risk.

I've been very happy with this one... it's $72 on Amazon right now.

Deka Sports Power ETX-15L

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D8P0YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_.2LZAbDZ2D1JT

For the battery I got one of these and I'm really happy with it so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFLVUDO/

It's pretty clean and simple to add the acid, so as long as handling that doesn't spook you, you're getting a brand new battery that's guaranteed not to have been dying on a shelf for months before it ever gets installed.

I agree it's possible but even so the auction house would have maybe noticed it was a bit odd at least. Who knows maybe they just let them put it up without really handling the frame themselves. This video shows a lot of the internals and I really hope that battery isn't a baby lead acid hopefully (I'm sure it's not lol) that's just a case or it's a LiFePO4 pack at least or anything better. Is that person at 17 seconds holding a soldering iron? Good thing it's off for the camera haha but it could be a screw driver or something. There would be a bit more heft too that frame than normal. That's all I was thinking that the thick frame and a bit more weight might be odd so that's why I made the comment the auction house would have noticed. I have had two forgotten 4S LiPos hold their charge for 3 years pretty well so I'm sure that's not a big issue but like ya said they did run out halfway. I think you would have put it together better and I have a few ideas myself after seeing some of the internals in the video.

I've got an Oxford Oximiser OF951, and it saved the battery in my 500cc a few times when I was having regulator/rectifier issues.

It even charged my car battery when it died due to the car not being used for 4 months (granted it took about 6 days to charge it fully).

The 601 looks better than the one I have, so I'm sure you'd be fine.

The yeti is nice, i have never used one. Some say it is overpriced, but you have to admit that it is a nice simple all in one thing - battery, usb,300 watt pure sine wave inverter, and can charge from 120 vac,12vdc,or solar.

It is what it is, 33Ah battery so if that is not enough then what? If you are going to charge from 12 (like your car) you will need hours and hours. Now if you are willing to put an isolator on you van/car? you could charge faster than a cigarette lighter socket but then you are adding complexity for just using occasionally. So if you can live with the capacity then it's a neat package.

The prices for the big yeti are over $1.4K ? I think that is 100Ah of battery. I think that would get you through a weekend with enough spare energy as to not have to ration. idk And this would just be charged at home or if you find 120vac while you are away.

I will think it over more as it is late for me. But what I have done before is to use a battery box and a separate inverter. The box and battery(battery is bad now) I owned from the trolling motor set up for my canoe. It is not a clean set up but can be used in pieces as you like. So if you have separate pieces and your battery runs low you just hook up the inverter to the van, and don't run out of fun times.

here are some amazon links - non referrals so take a look and seeif you get what I mean.

https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG Nice thing here is it will hold any battery up to group 24 or 27

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXMB127-Battery-Replacement-Caddy-Golf/dp/B00BDV7OO0 I just picked a 100Ah battery at random

https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2601-Elite-400W-Inverter/dp/B007Y4BL1C

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Maintainer-Automobile-Batteries-maintain/dp/B00IZV91Q0/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IZV91Q0&pd_rd_r=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905&pd_rd_w=uLdL1&pd_rd_wg=0Vigf&psc=1&refRID=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905 Any GOOD battery charger will do.

So like $500, but you now own a nice box, battery, charger, and inverter. So play with the idea and see if it would fit your style. Just an option.

Here is what some guy did with $1000 and you could scale this to your needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw

Sorry for the mess of a post.

Good luck and have fun. Be sure to let the sub know what you come up with.

Okay well hopefully that's the case and everything is solved by adding the battery. This battery so hopefully it's compatible with my bike as I have no idea how to double check.

Here.  https://www.amazon.com/Deka-Flooded-Battery-Type-8L16/dp/B00A6VGRQO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542949135&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=DEKA+8L16+BATTERY+370AH

There is no price on the link you provided.  It's ok I 'm not buying one.  Happy Thanksgiving.

You look to be on the right track. I just bought a fishfinder for my kayak.

This is the battery I bought

Along with this charger

I also picked up this waterproof box that I've seen a lot of people use to put the battery in. Do a google search for DIY fishfinder battery box.

Good luck, I'm on the east coast so I have to wait for it to warm up before I get everything on the yak

It definitely still has the kick lever for the kick start. I can't comment on whether it has an electric starter too (don't know what bike that is), but that big lever sticking out of the right side crank case is the kicker. And IMO a lot of people are keen on kick start only bikes (as far as cafe's go). With kick start you can easily get away with a tiny battery (like a 4 cell Ballistic), no weight of the starter and it's nostalgic to have a kick start bike.

It's usually hard to add a starter to a bike that otherwise didn't have one.

Sorry, but you are still incorrect. They have a marginally higher up-front cost, and a dramatically lower lifetime cost. I just showed that you could get 200Ah (160 usable) for $1000. You'd need 400+Ah of AGM to get the same 160Ah usable capacity. Now, you could get something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Power-Group-45978-Battery/dp/B0044Z8DJW) for $640, which would be quite cheaper. But given that even high end AGMs are grossly overrated, I can't imagine something like this would be even remotely reliable/long-lasting.

Conversely, if you got something like these Lifeline AGMs - which are reputed to be fairly high quality - it would be more expensive than lithium. (https://www.amazon.com/Lifeline-Marine-AGM-Battery-GPL-31T/dp/B0055LKPX6)

If you went somewhat lower end, it would be comparable.

And again, that's just up front cost. Lifetime its not even remotely comparable. Not to mention the innumerable benefits of lithium (smaller, lighter, faster and more efficient charging, minimal voltage sag, etc...)

Go with cheap flooded lead acid or lithium. AGM shouldn't be part of the conversation.

I believe the YB9L-B, UB9L-B, and MB9U are all compatible model numbers for your bike (to fit the battery tray).

I think so too, but it doesn't look like those leads would reach a charge controller, so you're going to have to splice the wire. I guess at this voltage wire gauge isn't going to be too important, but you'll need a meter to see which one is +. Certainly not a huge issue, I just wish there was more standardization. The HQRP panels seem to have their own proprietary connectors too. (MC4?)
http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Monocrystalline-Controller-Regulator-Radiation/dp/B002WHQL2U

>lifepo4 is at most 30%

Find me a 50ah LiFePO4 battery at anywhere close to 30% above this

AGM is spill and puncture resistant compared to flooded lead acid, and doesn't have to be maintained and doesn't have nearly as much off gassing. It still has its uses.