Best powersports batteries according to redditors
We found 131 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports batteries. We ranked the 71 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 131 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports batteries. We ranked the 71 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I also have put horns on my bike:
Picture of the horns.
Test video. It's much louder than it sounds in the video. Much louder than a typical car's horns. I only use it for situations where I am not seen by a driver and in danger. Not for casual "fuck you, buddy" type of situations.
Originally I had this set up with industrial zip ties, but it was not a very robust setup, so I removed it before this past winter. The bike is currently sitting in pieces. When I reassemble it I will mount the horn components in a single, weather-resistant enclosure, with a quick-release attachment so I can take it with me when locking up outside.
parts:
You need to give more info:
Is this a dual battery system charged by your alternator while moving?
Will you use solar to recharge?
What type of trailer and how much “stuff” will be running?
Will you move the trailer every day or use it as a home base?
How much room do you have? (For 1 battery, 2 batteries, etc)
These are just a few questions to start.
Based on a guess (external, camper mount, and road trip), you can use a vented, marine, deep cycle like this: Duralast 29DP. And that will support some LED light strands, and a small fridge for a night or two, possibly more.
Based on my own application (usually daily charge from an over-sized alternator and run a National Luna fridge, and multiple lights), look for a sealed, lead acid, deep cycle battery. For $200 I can order a sealed lead acid from Amazon and that will run everything I need for a few days, then charging off my truck for a days drive.
[Renogy 12 volt Deep cycle AGM] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jwC3DbH19QZ6B)
Lithium batteries can’t be charged when the temp is below freezing. Besides, they cost a fortune (but last a long time tolerating heavy abuse)
Your question is very broad and there are a million varying applications.
Check out Expedition Portal. Start here if you want to read about a dual battery system .
Here are a couple of drop in replacements with a bigger capacity at half the weight and a better charge/discharge efficiency. And their lifespan is around 10x times longer than your lead acid.
https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/?afmc=24
https://www.amazon.com/RUIXU-12V100Ah-Phosphate-Replacement-Applications/dp/B07PBCDVHZ/
What you should do is buy a sealed lead acid battery, a power inverter, 12v clips to cig lighter and a charger.
I just picked those products as examples but that would work and would cost around $50. It could probably be cheaper if you look around.
Also the batteries in most small UPS are around 2 amp/hour while the one I picked is 8Ah.
And that would be pretty easy to use.
This blanket draws 4.6 amps at 12 volts. One 35 amp hour SLA battery will power it for 7.6 hours. 35 amp hours / 4.6 amps = 7.6 hours. If you wire two batteries in parallel you'll double your capacity to 70 Ah. This will run your blanket for 15 hours.
You'll hurt your battery if you fully discharge it every night. So maybe take that into consideration especially if you have other stuff you want to be charging. A simple guideline is to have 1 watt of solar for every amp hour (Ah) of battery.
If your 100 watt solar panel can feed 8.3 amps to your 70Ah battery it'd take a little over 8 hours to fully charge. 100 watts / 12 volts = 8.3 amps. 70 Ah / 8.3 amps = 8.4 hours.
I suck at math but am fairly sure I'm doing this right. Hope this helps.
Awesome to hear another van dweller is in here! my current electrical design includes installing a two alternator system from nations and 4 100AH lithium batteries. That should give me enough power to run the speaker system, TV, Router and Modem and lighting for around 12 hours before needing to start the van and charge up the system. The automation is a total luxury, and adds the wow factor, but if implemented properly may be worth it to me. Budget isn't a huge issue, this will be the first house I ever build. My salary is pretty good and I'm spending $1500 a month to live here in southern california. Without the added rent expense I can justify making this thing an awesome place to live. Maybe a better idea would be adding a separate, solar electrical system with a 5th battery so that the wifi and automation system can stay on at all times.
Thanks for the tip. I ended up buying on Amazon and purchasing the acid as well. Links below.
Battery:
Yuasa YUAM22A5B 12N5.5A-3B Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZRB6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_r5Fe7KMKmPrOz
Acid:
WPS Non-Sealed Battery Electrolyte Pack - 850cc 850CC CONV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBXArGBu9ehQL
You can get a SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) battery in various sizes, and they put out 12V. They could easily run for several hours on a single charge. Don't bother tying to make a charger (harder than you think!) just buy one, they're pretty cheap.
An example of a battery https://www.amazon.com/Verizon-PX12072-HG-Powerstar-Rechargeable-Terminal/dp/B00V93WVPO/ref=sr_1_54
which is rated at 7.5Ah, so it can deliver say 500mA continuously for around 15 hours.
Make sure you get a smart charger, like https://www.amazon.com/Battery-PeleusTech-1A-Portable-Maintainer/dp/B01822CSA2/ref=pd_sbs_23_2/132-4805477-2123568 which does trickle charging and has auto cutoff, etc.
I didn't have a tutorial, but here's what I did.
Here's the end result with some input and output connectors on the outside of the can, as well as a volt meter, USB charge ports and a switch so that the parasitic load from the Astron box doesn't kill it while not in use.
The hookup inside the box is relatively simple:
It's really that simple. This box kicked ass on Field Day, ran my Kenwood TS-50 and AT-50 all day with the solar panel keeping the battery topped off. Ran the system long after dark until I was too tired to work any more.
If you have more questions, look me up.
This plus This and you are good to go in any post apocalyptic scenario.
You will almost certainly need a generator or a running car as /u/Laymanism mentioned. A dual halogen worklight will draw about 1000 watts [1]. A car battery will hold about 18 AH at 12 V [2]. Even with a perfect inverter you would only get about 12 minutes power. You could hook up a bunch of batteries in parallel, but I would recommend a generator and a long extension cord.
As others have said you can do this with a relatively small setup. There is a LOT to consider - HOW portable, HOW efficient, etc etc. Help me out if the below suggestions don' t meet the need I can piece together just about any system for you :P
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You could get by on a small sealed lead acid battery designed for uninterruptible power supplies. They range in size but average 9 amp hours. I say get yourself a little 35 amp hour and never worry about discharge rate if you are only powering the win2 even if the sun don't shine that day. For the solar - buy BIGGER than you need - learned this the hard way with my truck camper. Right sized is great until the season changes or its overcast etc.
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Check out this little starter kit - it includes the solar panel and charge controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DCDZOI0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_2ehvCbKCNM5MT
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Down in the frequently bought together you should see a 35ah battery - will fully charge the win2 a few times and not even feel it:
https://www.amazon.com/85980-D5722-Sealed-Battery-UB12350/dp/B001VV0318/ref=pd_bxgy_2/135-2046487-8709925?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001VV0318&pd_rd_r=f062a34c-263c-11e9-b2b2-83751d0b2340&pd_rd_w=Nxcwh&pd_rd_wg=KqE5I&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=KWC3NGMZ50M5TJWJ1STT&psc=1&refRID=KWC3NGMZ50M5TJWJ1STT
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12v car charger that I use with the win2 - works great:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Anker-PowerDrive-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B071WYF9HP/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549038482&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+pd+2+car+charger
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Plenty portable depending on your needs. Its almost as easy as color coding to setup. You can power the win2 and multiple devices if you so choose. Expandable at a later time if you choose with panel and batts. Will fit in any trunk or backseat. Hell it will fit in a big backpack (panel is 21x26). Large enough charge current to top off your battery quick even in partial sun - big enough reserve to keep you going for a couple days easily. This is just an example of an 'easy' bundle if you wanna save some more money I can show places to get these items cheaper.
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If you wanna talk more DIY and are not afraid of LI-ION 18650s you can build you a safe lighter and denser battery for pretty cheap. It would be piecing together a charge controller and panel but I would say stick to 50w range - affordable and covers your power needs even in less than ideal conditions. If you wanna go more expensive but more portable flexible/foldable panels are out there too.
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I just did this... again! So here's what I'm thinking of doing to out smart
myself. Replace regular bulbs with LED bulbs because they use much less power, or
remove the bulbs permanently and use a 12v plug-in map light and keep it in the glove box.
(Amazon search term; 12 volt car map light)
For a better answer to your question maybe you could check/ask at
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/
Good luck... reply if you find a solution...
Edit: more info...
Battery Protector (T4)
Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit w/ 40A Rover MPPT Charge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY9DVY9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_R4YRDbW552GF4
Krieger 1500 Watt 12V Power Inverter, Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Inclu... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MS5BY6T/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_u-YRDbS0KJZC6
Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 100Ah for RV, Solar Marine and Off-grid Appl... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_ybZRDb8WFGN0K
Welp, hop to it! I would have been super screwed if I didn’t have a menagerie of machines to borrow from. Hundred bucks..
Amazon also has a Deka 18L group that should be fine too. Deka was original maker of my battery.
Deka Sports Power ETX18L Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZEYTR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2DrMDbNPHK55F
The spec sheet says it draws 60 watts.
60 watts times 4 hours is 240 watt hours.
Using a small inverter and 12V lead acid battery, it would take a 20AH battery, 25 taking conversion inefficiency into consideration.
So it will take THIS 19 pound battery to power 4 hours.
12v. I've considered getting another and running in series to get higher charging rates. Right now I can charge at 6.8 amps on my isdt 608. U
PG 85980/D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Battery (12V; 35 AH; UB12350) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VV0318/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5.oyzbPK44VN7
Exactly this type of battery.
That said (and I agree), here's a hypothetical for the EE crowd to ponder...
They all use AC Adapters. For example, the Kickr Snap uses a 12v 5A adapter, so couldn't you run it off of a $15 battery, like this? Yes, you would have to fit your own custom wire, and yes, you would have to recharge that periodically at the house (or maybe via solar).
And yes, I realize that this risks blowing up a $500 trainer, hence the hypothetical classification.
You could use solar panels to charge a bank of batteries, and run everything from that.
There are plenty of 12v options for lighting and heating. You can install a power inverter to run any 110v tools and appliances you need.
I recommend moving to 12v components and then regulating the power back down to 5v for the Pi. There will be many more options and prices will be better.
Start with a solar panel:
http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Mono-crystalline-Anodized-Aluminum-Radiation/dp/B002HSUT40
Use a charge controller to attach it to your battery(s):
http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-7-Amp-Charge-Controller/dp/B0006JO0XI
Attach a voltage regulator to the battery and your Pi:
http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Hobbywing-Switch-mode-UBEC-Lowest/dp/B008ZNWOYY/
As far as batteries go, buying local will save you some shipping. If this is an outside battery you can use a deep cycle/RV battery. If inside then you need something sealed. You should have several days of reserve for bad weather. Maybe something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/26-SEALED-VOLT-DEEP-RECHARGEABLE/dp/B007GCDDOA
Amazon has 'em
And for the Li-Ion battery (easier to leave without constant charging + weight savings): also on Amazon
It's better to be safe than sorry. You don't want to bring out all that gear only to find you can't turn it on.
You'll be fine with any of these with the top one being your best candidate. Just remember to be courteous to your neighbors if people are trying to sleep!
Xantrex 806-1210 PROwatt 1000 SW Inverter
MicroSolar 1000W (Peak 2000W) Pure Sine Wave Inverter
BESTEK® Dual 110V AC Outlets 1000w/1200w Max Car DC 12V to 110V AC Inverter Power
You'll probably want to get a fuse holder and a cable kit depending on how far you expect to keep the table from your car.
You could also go the more environmental route and get some solar panels to juice up a spare solar battery each day.
is this a good second battery I plan on getting two with a 3000 watt inverter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GCDDOA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A33OOXQLQV58WQ
I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/
A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.
I bought the AG-801 a year ago for my FZ. Works great, very light.
The electrics are contained under the seat in the pan visible in the later photos. This is my battery:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EYM4JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and Ill see if I can dig up a picture of underneath the seat. I made a new harness from scratch with all new components, so theyre smaller than stock items.
That's a tight budget. It is possible but you don't have room for $1000 mistakes.
It isn't really hard if you want a small system in the range of a Suaoki or Yeti. They are 400 watt hours. Divide watts by volts to get amps. 400 ÷ 12 = 33.33 They actually contain a $65 35 amp hour battery like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001VV0318/
That is not compatible with a 12 volt efficient fridge. It is too small. It's simple but it won't work past the first week.
You can get a 100 amp hour battery, 3 times the size, for about $100. A 100 watt solar panel for $100, a $12 to $20 charge controller, and you have a system that can run an Alpicool C20 little efficient 12 volt compressor fridge, $250. There are you tube videos about the Alpicool.
In addition to that you need some AWG # 10 wire, fuse holders, fuses, a $10 multimeter, a $10 hydrometer and as needed sockets for USB, cigarette lighter sockets, led lights and switches. You'll need a cheap crimper and an assortment of crimp terminals. That's a total of $600, including fridge.
For charging laptop and stuff search on amazon for "car charger" and your computer brand and model. They run off 12 volts and are more efficient than double conversion 12 to 120 then 120 to 19. They go 12 to 19. If you have a device where you can't find a car charger then you need an inverter. Smaller is better.
If you want a system big enough to have all the electricity you want, double the solar panels and get a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries.
I'm not saying this is a good replacement; but:
Yamaha FZ-07 700CC Motorcycle Replacement Battery (2015-2017) This is an AJC Brand Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q424Y8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oGi8Cb38J804C
My 0.02:
Just buy a good quality AGM battery. Even though Amazon says that one doesn't fit your bike, yuasabatteries.com says that it does (YTZ7S HONDA CBR1000RR /2008 - 2017, 1000cc). Also partzilla.com says it's a YTZ7S.
Lithium Iron Phosphate are great for low weight and small size. That's about the only good things about them in my opinion. They cost more, and they are finicky about charging, plus they don't put out much current when it's cold out, until the battery warms up.
But make sure you check the fitment for yourself, I'm not responsible if the Amazon link gets you to another battery that doesn't fit.
I don't personally have one, but I've heard good things about the Battleborn batteries.
Contrary to what a lot of people say, as long as you don't abuse them Lithium batteries (especially lifepo4) are pretty safe.
If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...
AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.
I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.
Croth maybe confused.
I can't comment on any particular brand since I just got into this part of the hobby. I did purchase 8 of these 3 days ago.
3.2V400AH RUIXU LiFePO4 Single Cell Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PBYV465/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r9w7Cb42HBY5S
Price seems to fluctuate $20USD.
I'm going to have to weigh my options on that one. It would be nice to make my own connections since this is a DIY project, but want to keep it cheap as well.
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>How are you charging the 'house' battery?
I'll have to look into that. I'm not sure if the alternator charges that battery or not, but it can be charged from the generator. I won't be using either of those options if possible, my plan is to recharge it using the 100 watt portable panel since it'll mainly be used for the water pump, wifi amplifier, and lp/smoke alarms.
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>What's the gel-cell's model number and such?
It's a renogy 100aH 12v battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KN6QUW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
from the product description:
Specifications:
Cells Per Unit: 6
Voltage Per Unit: 12
Capacity: 100Ah 20hr-rate to 1.75V per cell 25℃
Weight: Approx. 67 lbs
Max. Discharge Current: 1000 A (5 sec)
Normal Operating Temperature Range:25°C±5℃
Float charging Voltage: 13.6 to 13.8 VDC/unit Average at 25℃
Recommended Maximum Charging Current: 20A
Container Material: A.B.S. UL94-HB, UL94-V0 Optional
Specification: 12.8X6.8X8.8 In.
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>Also, hooking up the solar to your house battery system is pretty easy, especially if it's 12 volts nominal. Depending on specifics there are better and worse ways to do it, but in theory it's very simple. :)
The solar battery bank will be in the storage next to the under the stairs battery, so it won't be too far. Another reason I didn't want to do this is the RV only has 1 12v outlet in the front, so everything i use will be going off the inverter anyway, and I have the 100 watt portable panel to charge the house battery for those small electrical needs mentioned above
> However, they will require some amount of hardware to be able to be charged
Or a universal lead-acid battery charger.
Also, pick those things up at Walmart or Home Depo. They're usually called Telecom Batteries. In my area, they're relatively plentiful because Verizon FIOS boxes use them for battery-backup.
Also, do you think you could estimate how long this might last for me?
edit: whoops, assuming a 38wH battery like this one
http://www.amazon.com/UPG-D5722-Sealed-Battery-UB12350/dp/B001VV0318/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header
although that one is quite large size-wise, perhaps a more reasonable 10 wH
It's a Piranhamax 150 I picked it up at Academy for $50 during a sale. I think it's regular $80, it works pretty good I have no complaints. I tried to mount the transducer to the hull but I kept kicking it loose so I just wrap the cord around the base of my mount (you can see in the picture) and drop the transducer in the water just below the hull of my yak.
It's hooked up to a 12v battery stored in a dry bag I bought on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/UPG-Security-12V-7-2Ah-Certified-Electronics/dp/B001MHSCWI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373486574&sr=1-2
Don't forget the charger either!: http://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Battery-Charger-UPG-D1724/dp/B001G8AIMU/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y
So, you don't want the cheap PWM controllers they sell in those kits. They're inefficient and can't handle nearly the load you're looking for, from the sound of it.
Charge Controllers:
Yep, additional panels will require a much heavier controller. You're looking at a quite sizable system to run an air conditioner.
I'd recommend a Midnite Classic 150 or one of the larger Victron charge controllers.
Panels:
As far as panels, I'd recommend you look into ordering a pallet or two of utility-scale, 60 cell panels. There's a lot of brands out there, but all perform almost equally. The real decider is price per Watt and warranty coverage, at least for me. I've got a lot of different panel brands, Canadian Solar, Trina Solar, Renogy, some Solar City ones iirc. I don't really have too much brand loyalty here.
Don't buy the 100 Watt panels designed for RV mounting though... they're expensive per Watt. You want to be around ~60-70 cents per Watt or less when buying panels.
Batteries:
Don't buy marine batteries like the one you linked to. You want at the very least, purpose built deep cycle AGM ones like these:https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK/
Again, unless I'm misunderstanding what you want to use this system for, a single flooded marine battery is not going to cut it.
​
EDIT:
The battery you linked to needs at least ~300 Watts to 'normally charge' it, in South Florida on a sunny day. But again, that's with no load on it. It doesn't really make sense to talk about charging a battery without establishing what your loads are first.
yeah that what i was going to reccommend. So if my math is correct (probably not). to run that stereo for 3 hours you would need a 9 amp batter at 12 volts. So to not destroy the battery lets round that up to 27-45 would be better. Then you would only need a small inverter and charger.
http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Pro-200W-Watt-Power-Inverter/dp/B003R7CAX8
http://www.amazon.com/26-SEALED-VOLT-DEEP-RECHARGEABLE/dp/B007GCDDOA/ref=sr_1_8?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426616369&sr=1-8&keywords=12+battery
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S
~$100
What a fucking SCAM. A FIVE HUNDRED DOLLAR battery every five years? It's a stinking medium sized sealed lead acid (gel cell) battery. At most it costs $70 retail.
Philly did a test run on these, and they're an over priced hot mess. The city shouldn't spend a dime on this junk.
200w of solar panels is actually quite a bit for most lithium batteries. You're probably better off (financially) in investing in just a single 100w panel and deep cycle lead acid battery like this one.
In fact, a single 100w panel can keep two of the listed batteries charged on most days with moderate sunshine, no sweat.
I opened it up and it looks like the fluid is pretty low yet there appears to be some in all 6 cores. I am thinking about ordering
https://www.amazon.com/WPS-Non-Sealed-Battery-Electrolyte-Pack/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=battery+acid&qid=1562620488&s=gateway&sr=8-3
and refilling. That should do the trick right ?
Yuasa YTZ7S
http://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM727ZS-YTZ7S-Battery/dp/B000UK1054
Might find it cheaper elsewhere
This is the charger
Be CAREFUL with Vruzend. Fuse every cell. I destroyed half my garage because I thought my tiny 36 cell packs (4s6p) was safe only being charged to 14v since it should have been safe up to 16.8v. Only takes one bad cell to screw up your life. I've decided it is no longer worth the effort to harvest 18650 batteries. The Renogy 100ah 12v ( https://amzn.to/2NO883u ) for $214 is rated for 1100 cycles at 50% depth of discharge. There's the LifePo4 version for $800 which is rated at 7000 cycles but I ain't made of that kind of money.
Stealth Solar Camper Van $8500 (Greenwood, SC)
Imgur Mirror Link
>This van has been meticulously maintained and is in fantastic mechanical
>condition. I have a log of the work that I've done to it (the vast majority of
>which was scheduled / preventative maintenance). I also have the last few shop
>receipts from the previous owner. Everything works as it should. I'm including
>the Haynes service manual, the Ford factory service manual, and the original
>owners manual.
>Power:
>The house electrical system is powered by this
>(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RGX1WR/) Deep Cycle AGM 200 amp-hour
>battery. The battery is charged with a solar panel run through this
>(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHG8TH6/) 40A MPPT charge controller.
>It's also hooked up to the alternator such that it charges from the engine
>while the engine is running. Power is fed through a 12 power splitter and,
>optionally, a 1750W power inverter.
>Bedding:
>There is a fold-out bed platform. I'm including a single mattress which can be
>used for one person while the platform is collapsed. I'm also including a
>double air mattress and a 12V pump which can be used for two people when the
>bed platform is extended.
>Sink / Table:
>There's a custom-built wooden sink with a hand pump and a fold-out table. The
>table can be used as a laptop workstation (by sitting on the bed) or as a
>dinner table with storage seats on either side.
>Cooler:
>I'm including this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PQYBLI/) Engel
>cooler which keeps ice cold for days in the middle of the summer.
>Other Features:
>Maxxair ceiling ventilation fan
>Oscillating fan
>Backup camera
>Bluetooth stereo
>Cassette toilet
>Privacy curtain
>Reflectix window inserts (apply for privacy, remove for a view)
>Smoke detector
>Fire extinguisher
>Mounted whiteboard
>Coat hanger bar
>Plenty of storage space
>I'm asking $8,500 OBO. Cash or bitcoin. Calls only: If I'm not available,
>leave a voicemail and I'll call back shortly.
 
2000 Ford E-250|
:-
condition:good|
cryptocurrency ok|
cylinders:8 cylinders|
drive:rwd|
fuel:gas|
odometer:186560|
paint color:white|
rv type:class B|
title status:clean|
transmission:automatic|
---
^| ^I'm ^a ^bot ^| ^For ^bug ^reports, ^suggestions, ^or ^if ^you ^want ^me ^in ^your ^sub ^message ^/u/Vendigroth ^|
Just get an AGM battery that works for your terminals, don't need really high CCA unless you're in cold weather. Batteries plus sells them, or Napa, just get an extreme or powersports battery, don't need Odyssey or hawk expensive stuff
Deka Etx14 or etx18 works. Get terminal adapters for it, then make a battery tray. Should be under $100
https://www.amazon.com/Deka-Sports-Power-ETX18L-Battery/dp/B002ZEYTR4
Have to keep them topped off, but they can recover from low charge well
Lithium isn't worth it yet, put that money towards lighter wheels that will actually make a difference in handling
Seems like a car, marine, or deep cycle battery of 32 or more amp hours would do the trick. You'll have to evaluate your purchasing options, but I'd recommend getting sealed lead acid deep cycle batteries of some flavor.
This is a good deal:
http://www.amazon.com/UPG-D5722-Sealed-Battery-UB12350/dp/B001VV0318
My reasoning for that sizing is that 200w for an hour is only 16ah at 12v, so double that to prevent yourself from overdischarging the battery and you should be good.
If you want to double up on size, I'd recommend just buying a larger battery from the start and avoiding the complications that multiple batteries bring into the picture.
The solar panels seem to output around .9a, really depends on your insolation numbers but 5 hours of usable light gives you around 4.5ah per panel or perhaps around half an hour of TX time per day of charging.
I got this battery for my 2010 Bonneville and it has been great so far. Not too expensive and good quality. It's not Li though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Car-Motorcycle-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Maintainer-YK-/152151069810?hash=item236ce91472:g:M6IAAOSw-KFXdlI6&item=152151069810&vxp=mtr
https://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Lead-Battery-Charger-D1724/dp/B001G8AIMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467867243&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+acid+charger
you can go more expensive if you want a faster charge
You can buy devices which shut off the battery when the voltage gets too low. Push a button to reset the breaker and your car will start right up.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Prog-Brain-T4-Protector/dp/B00142SAW8
I know I need fuses but I don't know how big, and I know the battery is small but its what I can afford right now I'll get a bigger one later. If someone could just tell me what else I need and draw me a schematic, that would be a big help.
BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UFERZKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_W1gqnxKEimW27
35AH 12V DC DEEPCYCLE SLA SOLAR ENERGY STORAGE BATTERY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5YG3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_RYM9yc9uIJBdu
Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with 20A Rover MPPT Charge Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGW485F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_EuTJwlC55xZgQ
Mine is also a Toyota Sienna, 2005. I like it a lot so far but haven't gotten to fully test it out yet :) You're right about the weight of the battery, I don't know why I thought it was 70lbs, the weight listed on Amazon is 129 lbs: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-Grid-Applications/dp/B075RGX1WR
Also I think you might mean 100 amp hour as opposed to 100 amp
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This is the most popular solar set-up. Then a battery like this. You may need an inverter, too, but that depends on your needs.
Water depends entirely on you. You can get five gallon jugs that re-fill at Home Depot for $7, for example. A lot of people get water for free at gas stations or parks.
It seems like you're just getting started thinking about this. I recommend the FAQ. There's lot of good stuff in there!
It is unlikely that you will be able to power a heater with solar power; heaters simply require too much electricity. A sleeping bag rated for the temperature you will experience is probably the most effective thing for you.
A quick look at Amazon shows the Nintendo switch has a wall outlet power adapter that outputs 5v at 1.5a. Assuming that is correct, you can charge your electrical devices from a wall outlet at McDonalds or Starbucks, or from a cigarette lighter adapter in your car. If you won't be in cities or won't be driving daily, a small solar panel and battery (I like that battery for its dual inputs, which makes it charge twice as fast) will likely be sufficient. Price for solar panel and battery about $100.
If you need more electrical power, put a roof rack on your car, then buy a battery and a 100-watt kit from Renogy (the kit includes mounting hardware, cables, a solar controller and instructions to wire everything together). Price for solar panel kit and battery about $400.
Thank you so much for the information, I'll have to measure it out when i get home.I had intended to start with 1 and work my way up to 4 if it worked well.
So Batteries, probably the most technical portion of this part. So looking at [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK) There is a lot of words in here that are challenging me. Whats the best way to assess what would actually be needed for the job? Can you chain multiple if you exceed capacity on 1 battery?I should take an electrical class...
You should be fine. I use sulfuric acid, commonly known as battery acid. You use a lot less sulfuric than phos for the same amount of water. My tap is 8.2.
https://www.amazon.com/WPS-Non-Sealed-Battery-Electrolyte-Pack/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=pd_yo_rr_rp_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003CKJDW6&pd_rd_r=1cce90e9-e233-487e-8644-7beb0c40f0c1&pd_rd_w=JC5Rp&pd_rd_wg=wkKN4&pf_rd_i=desktop-yo-rightrails&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=9a9cd2b8-5fc1-437e-b810-e4137af95130&pf_rd_r=WM95W47CM7QGJKEYEY75&pf_rd_s=desktop-yo-rightrails&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WM95W47CM7QGJKEYEY75
Glad the info helped! Let's say you're using 100 watts (Xbox with TV). It sounds like you may be using only 90 watts, but we want to allow for electrical inefficiencies so we add 10% to your usage, so in this case that's 99 watts. Let's say 100 watts for simplicity and for a little extra margin.
The GoalZero website says their battery has 280.8 amp hours (Ah). You don't want to discharge a lithium battery more than 90%, so your real capacity is 252.7 Ah (280.8 * 0.9). Your system uses 8.34 amps (100 watts / 12 volts = 8.34 amps). To find out how many hours you can power your system on this, divide your Ah by amps, so 252.7Ah / 8.34A = 30.3 hours...which means your math is correct :) Keep in mind that it will take around 9 hours to recharge this battery.
A little more math: You can get a 100Ah lithium battery for $950, a 600 watt pure sine inverter for $220, and a lithium battery charger for $175. Throw in $20 for cabling and you're up to $1,365, so let's say $1,400 if there's any extra shipping. That's less than half the cost of the GoalZero and you'd get 10.8 hours of play from it, and recharge time would be 3.3 hours.
If you get two batteries, your numbers would be $2,315, 21.6 hours of use, with a recharge time of 6.6 hours.
I'm not saying you shouldn't get the GoalZero since it may be the perfect solution for your needs. Just trying to show you other possible choices.
You look to be on the right track. I just bought a fishfinder for my kayak.
This is the battery I bought
Along with this charger
I also picked up this waterproof box that I've seen a lot of people use to put the battery in. Do a google search for DIY fishfinder battery box.
Good luck, I'm on the east coast so I have to wait for it to warm up before I get everything on the yak
I dunno. . . The silverfish battery pack seems pretty standard. And there are are off-the-shelf lithium motorcycle batteries that will do the trick. It's not much of an issue for DIY eBikes.
What if I used this
Depth of discharge.
I'm not sure how you get triple the cost for lithium, even if you can only buy from Amazon and only count up front cost. You're looking at 4x$170 lead batteries or 2x $500 lithium ones (in both cases the cheapest ones Amazon sells), which means $680 vs $1000. For triple the cost ($2040) you could buy name brand lithium instead (Battle Born or Renogy). And of course you're looking at 3000-5000 cycles to 90% DoD from the lithium rather than 300-500 to 50%... that extra zero really does affect the cost per cycle.