Best rc electric motors & parts according to redditors

It’s a Traxis Titan.

Super affordable, but it required a little excavation in the motor well area.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Titan-18-Turn-Brushed-Motor/dp/B0027GGZYU

I was given the rules:

• Parts with Amazon Prime shipping only.
  
  
• Must choose the absolute cheapest parts - no picking something "a lot better for just $1 more". Must go at least 5 pages deep in search results.
  
  
• Purchase must include 3 full sets of props and a battery.
  
  
• Don't need to buy a charger or Tx. Can use an Rx typically bundled with the Tx; any other models would have to be purchased.
  
  
• Must be capable of carrying a camera on a gimbal (don't need to include either item in the build though).
  
  
• Any assembly materials not considered common household items must be purchased. (we consider zip ties to be common household items, along with soldering irons and solder)
  
  Here's what I ended up with:
  
  
• Frame - $17.49 - F450 clone. This actually should've been like $13.50, but the item sold out while I was putting together the build. This was the next cheapest.
  
  
• ESCs, Motors, 2 sets of props - $74.95 - The included props are what really drove this option home. I had a few other ESC + motor sets picked out for around the same price, but since Amazon sellers overcharge so much for props, having 2 sets of props included in this kit was a huge boost.
  
  
• Flight Controller - $24.90 - The CC3D seems to be the prolific flight controller available from Prime sellers. I had hoped for a Naze, but oh well - at least I didn't get stuck with a Multiwii or KK.
  
  
• Landing Skids - $16.58 - Technically, with the "absolute cheapest" rule, this should've been these $7.01 legs, but I decided with the camera/gimbal requirement, it was important to get landing gear that weren't prone to flipping your shit.
  
  
• Battery - $22.99 - Yeah, not a lot of great battery selection on Amazon. Since we didn't have any rules in place about battery size, I just chose something comfortably around $20.
  
  
• One more set of props - $7.50 - They don't perfectly match the included props, but are close enough that it might not matter if I end up needing to use them at the same time.
  
  
• Silicone Wire & Dean's plugs - $15.99 + $6.50 - Not counting these in the build price, as I was mostly stocking up for myself - but one side of a T connector and about 8" total of wire did get used in my build.
  
  I used an old Turnigy 9X8C Rx (the module included with the 9X Tx bundle). Mounted the Rx and FC using double sided foam tape meant for holding hooks on a wall, and obviously the zip ties for the ESCs/arms.
  
  All in all took about 3 hours to build - including a ton of time wasted disassembling and re-assembling the entire frame (incl motors) to rotate it to put the yellow in front, and making a Deans <-> XT-60 adapter dongle so I could test using the only batteries I have handy (which I also had to make twice since I'm an idiot and used the wrong side of a Dean's plug on the first one).
  
  EDIT: For anyone considering a less crappy version of this build concept
  
  As brought up in this comment. I actually wouldn't really change much. Get a frame in the color you like (I saw red/white, white/yellow, black/white, black/red, and red/white deadcat). Swap the motor and esc bundle for this fantastic combo for $55 more (bonus: bullet connected motors/escs, reduces soldering requirements to 10 ridiculously easy pads + a power adapter). Buy a BEC, lots of extra props, and a set of prop nuts (that bundles included props are self-locking). Maybe order an APM off a domestic ebay seller instead of a CC3D from Amazon.
  
  
  EDIT 2: Video & plug
  
  Took it outside for a test flight today. Nothing exciting - there are too many trees nearby for me to risk going high with an untested quadcopter; plus as you can hear, my transmitter battery was a little low. I'll update the imgur post with a screenshot of my PIDs later today, and hopefully get out to a park this weekend for some real flying!
  
  Also, be sure to check out /r/multicopterbuilds/ - a new subreddit started as a result of this thread!

It's called a bristlebot or toothbrushbot.

This is a better example than the other one's posted as it's an actual toothbrush.

• Pager Motor(pack of 5) link $10.22
  

Please get a proper electrical system on your ebike before you burn your house down.

If you can't solder and your current demands are low and you can crimp well, then you can use presoldered connector pigtails.

This is almost certainly better than you twisting wires together and wrapping it with tape, but a proper soldered joint to a proper connector is best. Make sure you have enough power in your soldering iron, I use a Weller WESD51 station and it makes short work of 8 gauge wire and XT90 connectors.

It would technically work but it's FAR too low of a turn to work even half way decently. That's a higher speed motor, you might end up burning up the motor trying to get over rock because it will have so little torque.

They're cheap, if you can afford a kit you can afford the $15-$30 for a proper motor. Even the cheap ones on amazon/ebay are good

​

If you want it for pure crawling I'd recommend a 35t+, if you want to crawl but have more speed for trails then 27t.

​

I have one very similar to this and has lasted a long time for me

https://www.amazon.com/Brushed-Motor-Shaft-3-175mm-WARAITH/dp/B01N43NLC8/ref=sr_1_5

Frame: SabotageRC Dingo 5

FC: Bardwell F4

ESC: Racestar Anniversary Edition 4-in-1 ESC

VTX: TBS Unify Pro

Receiver: FrSky R-XSR

Motors: EMAX 2205-S

Camera: Caddx Turbo Micro F2

What are the dimensions of the space inside the steering wheel?

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-3100RPM-Vibrating-Vibration-Massage/dp/B00AKWRWRW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1478586664&sr=8-7&keywords=vibration+motor

https://www.amazon.com/1-5-6V-50000RPM-Coreless-Vibration-Motor/dp/B00QC2F4FQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478586664&sr=8-5&keywords=vibration+motor

https://www.amazon.com/1100RPM-0-2A-Speed-Vibration-Motor/dp/B0087Y95X4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478586664&sr=8-3&keywords=vibration+motor

but also if you can't find something small enough to fit into the compartment and powerful enough to shake the wheel you should consider putting several of the phone vibrators in parallel around the steering wheel itself.

xing 2207 2450kv https://www.amazon.com/iFlight-2450KV-Brushless-Racing-Quadcopter/dp/B07N1H34XM

Sounds to me like you have a bad motor bearing. Either that or you've overheated the motor pretty badly and ruined the magnets. Either way I'd just get a new motor. Those little 380 brushed ones are cheap as dirt.

Here's the stock one on amazon

I apologize in advance for the jumbled nature here:

theres something like this, which you could attach to any old 540 sized motor to get a 4:1 reduction. usually this is for crawlers to help the low end throttle, but it might drop whatever you use to tolerable speeds.

if you dont want a gearbox, brushed motors work much better at low rpms than brushless, but they have less power (as brushed speed controllers use pwm to essentially drop voltage to the motor). Brushless however use alternating current, and so speed controllers actually control the oscillation. meaning, more efficiency and low end power, BUT too low and they suffer functionality because of the way that works, UNLESS you use sensors. sensored brushless is basically the highest end type of motor you can use, but they generally arent cheap. both the motors and escs are a quite a bit more expensive. BUT, that would get you low end torque and reliability.

I dont know enough about your needs, but you should pick up a cheap 540 motor/esc combo and cheap transmitter and reciever and play around. it might give you a better idea of the route to take. Here is a cheap alright-quality combo. Higher turns (ex, 45T) means more power, lower speed.

random Google search gave me: this build. might give you some ideas. looks like he uses brushed cordless drill motors, which is very clever.

RC18B2? I built the RC18T2 this last year and have had a ton of fun with it. Enjoy. :)

If you're looking for a cheap ESC/Brushless setup to upgrade to, I've found this set to be wonderful, especially at the price point.

motor/esc $31

2s lipo (2 pack) $16

3 wire servo $13

pinion .6mod $7

flysky FS-GT2E tx/rx $35

metal front axles $8

metal rear axles $8


Total $120

fast, reliable, 15-20min per battery

Here are the links. Hope they work
GoolRC 2.4G FS-GT2 2CH Radio... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007FSJM6S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Tamiya RC F104 Rubber Tires Front Type A (2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035WV8AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nRrRCbXV5HHSZ
New 35T 540 Brushed Motor Shaft 3.175mm for Axial RC4WD Cross HPI Mist GMADE D90 D110 TF2 SCX10 ii PG4 MC8 WARAITH YETI 1/10 1/8 RC Cars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N43NLC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-QrRCbJF8W72E
Hobbywing QuicRun 1060 Brushed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZHBJ85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0QrRCb27F7VQC

PowerPlant

Fuel

Radio

Servos are easy, the old one will still work (until it doesn't lol)

If you're already into LiPo batteries from your flying RC cars (???), then use those but if you haven't been keeping up with them, like me, it is a strange new world. A new charger is probably in order either way though... I've got some old RC10Ts myself from that period and they are still fun to drive, even without the brushless system today's batteries and brushed motors can get you going waayyyy faster than the old nicd. Your old radio might still work fine, or might get too much interference from modern shit in the ether (wifi, celltowers, CIA), new radios are awesome.

I just put this system into my touring car. Lots of power, very little heat (again, touring car). Grab a heat sink for it and you'll be in business.

We have around 7 of these systems in our various bashers (including several Rustlers), can't complain one bit. You will need the card to program them. Pretty good speed out of 2S. Of course, normal rules apply, keep the temps reasonable. That being said, we have run these way too hot and haven't lost one yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01851U21C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX69CCI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes. Mine is 3d printed in ABS. I used the Crossfire 2 Arms and Spyda 500 body plates for crossfire arms.

From the first couple of flights I can say I'm not getting flex with my AirGear 350 motor/esc combo and a 3S battery.

I really don't expect to ever see flex from the arms. They are quite solid. The plastic body plates flex a lot until you start bolting pieces onto them and then those firm up quite a bit too. I still may add a spacer or two in the center of the body to firm things up just a bit more.

Here is about what I spent: http://i.imgur.com/ZU2hzQr.png

Edit: Table format

Link|Part|Model|Price
:-:|:-:|:-:|--:
link | Frame | Lumenier QAV-R 5 | $107.75
link | Motors | EMAX RS2205 2300KV | $76.99
link | ESCs | Littlebee 20A PRO | $49.99
link | Flight Controller | MotoLab Cyclone F3 | $40.69
link | Radio Tx | FrSky Taranis X9D Plus | $211.37
link | Radio Rx | Frsky XSR | $26.74
link | Headset | Fatshark Attitude V3 | $331.99
link | FPV Tx | ImmersionRC 600MW 5.8 | $48.98
link | FPV Antennas | Aomway | $15.00
link | FPV Camera | Foxeer XAT600M | $48.88
link | HD Camera | Yi | $100.00
link | Charger | SkyRC iMax B6AC V2 | $49.97

There may be a part or two missing. The links may or may not still be good, this is from ~4 months ago. Take out the headset, HD camera, and other FPV stuff and the cost drops by $545. These are also all high-end parts.

Edit2: Some Youtube subs
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCahqHsTaADV8MMmj2D5i1Vw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCemG3VoNCmjP8ucHR2YY7hw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoS1VkZ9DKNKiz23vtiUFsg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9zTuyWffK9ckEz1216noAw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3ioIOr3tH6Yz8qzr418R-g
https://www.youtube.com/user/EngineerX
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX3eufnI7A2I7IkKHZn8KSQ
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp1vASX-fg959vRc1xowqpw

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

My other non stock parts: [motors] (https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-4pcs-6x15mm-Motor-Speed/dp/B01M4QRVA1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499744771&sr=8-3&keywords=tiny+whoop+motors), [flight controller] (https://www.amazon.com/BEEBRAIN-V1-2-FLIGHT-CONTROLLER-WHOOP/dp/B01N9W1Y5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1499663783&sr=1-1&keywords=beebrain), [batteries] (https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N6GP1WO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494890571&sr=8-5&keywords=tiny+whoop+batteries), [props] (https://www.tinywhoop.com/products/eachineprops)

You can buy new xt60 connectors at hobby shops (rc/drone) or on amazon and many others.


Do not wait to fix it, it will get worse, I know from experience.


I bought pre soldered connectors and all I needed was a heat gun and snips to fix mine.


50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


4pcs XT60 Plug Male Female... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QJWVVK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


It was a 5 minute fix and no issues since, my connectors stay room temp now.

If I were looking for similar, I'd start digging into RC plane/car brushless motors. You'd need a basic motor and a speed controller. Something like an A2212 with a 30A speed controller (both available cheaper overseas...) will easily meet your needs. The speed will be controlled using PWM into the speed controller. Based on test data floating the internet for that particular motor, it'll happily do 6000-9000 RPM under normal propeller load - not sure what exactly you need to do.

> Judging by the fact that hardly any product page mentions the motors' RPM I'm guessing I'm probably doing it wrong, so suggestions and corrections are welcome.

Motors aren't sold by RPM. RPM actually depends on the voltage applied, plus some penalty for the load they're under. You'll usually get some combined rating. Brushless motors, anyway, will come with a "Kv" rating based on their theoretical max speed. The rule of thumb in the hobby world is

Motor RPM = (drive voltage) x Motor kV Rating * (efficiency%)

So assuming a 3 cell lithium pack (11.1v), a 1000Kv motor will give you ~11,100 RPM. You usually have to tack an efficiency multiplier onto that. The rule of thumb in the RC world is ~80% for a propeller (and it varies quite a bit by prop, honestly...) , but an unloaded motor might be as high as 95%.

I'm sure there's more precise math out there for this, but this is the "close enough" stuff you're going to find for hobbyist motors.

Brushed motors are a little different - you won't find a Kv rating. They'll usually have an RPM/volt rating, or a "turns" rating that can be converted. Pick the voltage you're driving them at, multiply by the RPM/Volt, and you'll get a theoretical max. But again, load will be a factor. As will heat. Usually if you kill a brushed motor, it's due to over-heating. Check their max dissipation, make sure they'll handle the voltage you need to throw at them to get the speed you want.

In RC applications, you may have a motor running in excess of 20,000 RPM with a gear system to reduce speed to something usable. Usually you'll find a wattage rating.

Nope it’s an Armattan Mongoose frame here are my parts:

Frame
Armattan Mongoose $38.50: https://www.armattanquads.com/mongoose-1/

Flight Controller
RTFQ Freestyle FC $24.00 : http://www.readytoflyquads.com/rtf-freestyle-flight-controller-v15

ESC’s
Racerstar 35a Anniversary 4in1 $30.99: https://www.getfpv.com/racerstar-special-anniversary-edition-35a-blheli-s-4-in-1-esc.html

Video Transmitter
Unify Pro HV $29.99: https://www.getfpv.com/fpv/video-transmitters/tbs-unify-pro-hv-5g8-race-sma.html

Camera
Caddx Turbo Micro F2 $22.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQHNZFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J76LBbBSEZYBE

Motors
EMAX 2205-S $70: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9GOQC5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JmAHBb2NP8HH2?th=1&psc=1

Receiver
FrSky R-XSR $23.99 : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QHJRBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8NwHBbR660HCF

Total Price = ~$250

Here is the mobile version of your link

Excellent. You've been SUPER helpful! Another question. Since the new frame is a bit heavier I got beefier motors:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4QRVA1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and to compensate for the additional power needs I picked up denser batteries:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQE0SI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has good performance now, sure, but the flight times did not even out between the motors and the bigger batteries. I now only get about a minute of flight time instead of 2-2.5 minutes.

Any advice on what to check or tweak to make sure I'm getting the most out of the batteries? I looked around online and I've seen a lot of variation among people's flight times, and I've read about cheap hacks like cutting two of the props on each propeller to increase flight time (not sure of the engineering rationale for that battery savings).

Edit - Definitely the motors causing the drain. Swapped the stock motors back in and more than doubled the battery life. They stock motors definitely don't have the punch and I lose altitude on sharp turns, but I'm shocked they cause that much drain. Any ideas?

Edit 2 - Ordered the upgraded pigtail connector from TinyWhoop: https://www.tinywhoop.com/products/upgraded-battery-pigtail. Will see if that helps the power drop on the stock motors and the flight time on the upgraded motors.

Then in the interest of getting you in the air in two months, I'd look for a similar frame on Amazon instead of the HK one. The ones in that price range all come from about 4 factories in China and are rebranded for whomever is selling them anyway; there are equivalent frames on Amazon for a few dollars less that will likely ship faster and cheaper (although I haven't dealt with the US HK warehouses yet). Also, I've had good luck with these motors; I think EMax is the best buy for budget motors, and they are priced the same as the ones you have listed.

Good luck with your project. I hope it's educational, and while I don't mean to sound discouraging or disparaging, I also am trying to be realistic. There is a reason you don't see a lot of posts about DIY flight controllers beyond ones like yours, but as long as you understand what you are getting into, I hope you get a lot out of it.

First off, the others in this thread are right you will have to upgrade the ESC as well.

You can get cheaper ESC/Motors but if you want to stay with a Traxxas system, Traxxas has a trade up program where you can get the VXL-3S ESC and Velineon 3500 Motor which is waterproof for
$165.00 which is about $25 below the normal price

Which is kinda nice but but you can find it on Amazon for 170 too which is useful if you have prime.

The other thing is you'll want to upgrade the bushings throughout the model to bearings to take full advantage of the extra power.

Build

Frame: Crazepony 70mm

FC: FuriousFPV RaceWhoop

ESC: 2x 2 in 1 10A ESC 2-3S BLHELI-S Dshot

Motors: 1104 7500kV

RX: FrSky XM+

Camera: Wolfwhoop 600TVL 25mW

OSD: Micro Minimosd

Batteries: Nano-tech 2s 300mAh 35C

63g AUW.

The battery voltage sags about 0.7v under load since I have nano-tech packs that only ave a small balance lead with long 22awg wires. I hope to get some new batteries with an actual discharge port. As you can see when I disarm it goes back to 3.5v/cell.

Is the ESC required? What would be the difference without it?

I found a brushless motor with an ESC

Haha I still have the stock motor in mine. Do you think it would handle a stronger motor that isn't brushless? I was thinking of ordering this motor.

ah gotcha, those look nice but are a bit out of my budget for now :(

have you heard anything good/ bad about these?? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CL6Q0RM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A36AZVMIXMN0IJ

For motors, I'm looking at these fyi.
They include 1 ECS per motor

Motors

In looking closer at the parts on your truck, I don't believe it is the E-Firestorm 10T Flux, but the E-Firestorm 10T http://hpiracing.world/en/kit/10551. It came with the controller and motor you have. The controller you have is the SC-15 which is NOT LiPo-battery-compatible and only supports brushed motors. It was upgraded by HPI at some point to the SC-15WP, which was waterproof and also supported LiPo batteries. The motor you have is still available to buy. You can read reviews on it here: http://www.amazon.com/HPI-Racing-1146-Firebolt-Motor/product-reviews/B001MVXMQK

What about these?
2 Pairs HOBBYMATE 2204 2300KV CW CCW Brushless Motor & 4 PCS BLHeli 12A ESC for For Mini 180, 210, 220, 250 RC Multirotor Quadcopter Drone

http://www.amazon.com/HOBBYMATE-2300KV-Brushless-Multirotor-Quadcopter/dp/B01E56CUSO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51vm8VevvLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR320%2C320_&refRID=120F5ACDN12AWC8RBB1C

I'm just making a simple quad that can lift it's own weight for now. The specific props/motors I'm looking at are these and they apperently need a 20 A esc so the total draw would be 80A for all 4 motors.

16.99

16.99

15.99

17.50

And some of these websites have coupons you can use to reduce the price further. This is just the first few that I know of.

E3D V6 hotend

Noctua fan for hotend cooling (I hosed the original using a heat gun to assist bed temps for ABS) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap as hell 5015 2 pack part cooling blowers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This kickass heavy duty customizable mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 printed in PETG

I replaced my hotend with a microswiss right away and jacked up both it and the original, but learned a lesson and added plugs to everything. Hotends usually come with crimpable plugs, but they're all different so I standardized on these for fans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this type (xt60) for the hotend cuz current https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery/dp/B073QJWVVK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517496061&sr=8-5&keywords=xt60+connectors

All of the plugs made my wiring kinda fat, so when you join the Bowden tube, the wiring, and the ezabl cord its just heavy enough to droop lower than the gantry and get rubbed back and forth during prints. I designed a chain link style support in blender that anchors at the extruder and velcro'd the bundle to it. It allows free xy movement but not z. It works really well but could prolly be optimized. 😃

My printer came with the bed heater wiring strain relief already printed and installed, definitely do so. Also, get a dial gauge. Seriously. Print a gantry mount for it and slip it on to use it when needed.

I would replace the VTX you chose for the tx526 as you can change it's output power and it isn't as massive as the ts832 (you will most likely run into problems mounting it in the martian 220).

Like another commenter said, you should buy bigger motors, maybe rs2205s I can vouch that the rs2205s are practically indestructible and run very very smooth.

You should get 4s batteries, I use tattu 4s 1300mah 75c batteries on my martian 220 with rs2205s motors and just this week I got a shipment of cnhl Lipos.

You should get VR-D2 Pros goggles, they are much better bang for buck, diversity+dvr for 90$.

Yep, I have 5v BECs built into my ESCs. You can take a look at the ESCs here:
https://www.amazon.com/HOBBYMATE-Quadcopter-2300KV-Upgrade-Multirotor/dp/B01E56CUSO/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1478208965&sr=8-17&keywords=esc

I have the escs wired to the distribution board and motors correctly, so the only remaining question I have left is how do wire the BEC/ESC correctly for the receiver? I also wired the ESCs to the CC3D already too.

Thank you!

Here's what I plan on buying so far

• Crazepony camera
  
  
• Crazepony battery foam
  
  
• Crazepony upgrade motors
  
  
• Eachine ev800
  
  
• USB Charger
  
  
• Crazepony batteries
  
  
• Blade Inductrix RTF
  
  I plan on soldering the camera to reduce weight.
  
  Should I get anything else? Or swap any products?
  
  Thanks.

Maybe an extension cable with the exact same gauge and connector type such as this male to female one? https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Splitter-Harness-Parallel-Helicopter/dp/B07QN32TR8/

Is something like this a terrible idea?

HOBBYMATE Quadcopter Kit Motor ESC Combo, 2 Pairs CW CCW 2204 2300KV Plus 4 PCS Upgrade BLHeli 15A ESC for For 180 210 250 RC Quadcopter Drone Multirotor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E56CUSO/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_HzCRybSZYYHC0

I have bought 4 of these

You could get one of the velineon systems that come on the newer traxxas cars. It's waterproof, brushless, can handle 3s (would recommend heat sink for motor and fan for ESC for heavy 3s use) and it's BLUE... it is more pricey though, sorry if it's not in your price range.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FNL6NK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hkH-tb0091135

The safe but costly approach would be to get something like a Crazepony's EMAX RS2306 2750KV motor. That motor is very powerful and should handle the weight of the Gimbel, camera, frame battery and components. If you want to be exact you need to do the math for lift, thrust and weight of the components to figure out exactly how much KV or power is needed in the 6 motors.

Assuming you are using a frame like dji f550 you should be ok with the above or a cheaper solution like the MakerFire d1104. Whichever one you pick don’t forget to post your success or failure so we know what happened.