(Part 3) Best sewing notions & supplies according to redditors

Wow, that's rough. I'm glad you got some help and made it through.

I'm a big fan of hidden pockets in my travel pants, big enough to hold a passport and emergency cash. The hobo traveler pockets are a pretty good deal, and are easy to sew in. That way, you (almost) always have your passport on your person.

I've seen pre-made zippered pockets you can sew into the inside of clothes. Here's a tutorial for making your own: http://blog.fehrtrade.com/in-progress/795/a-hidden-travel-pocket-tutorial/

Also I just discovered that if you search "secret cash pocket" on Amazon you will find all kinds of inspiration for places to add pockets

I think you are way better of just adding them to the clothes you already love.. that's the first thing I do when I get a new pair of jeans or shorts..

Any tailor/seamstress can easily sew these wherever you want them.

I keep my ID, credit cards, and large amounts of cash in them.. if for some reason you have to access this during the day go use a restroom or do it where nobody else can see.. not a big deal.

And keep my smartphone and daily spending cash in my regular pockets..

I wear skinny jeans/shorts and it still hides this very well. I also personally think the zippered ones are better than the sellers who offer velcro as they make too much noise..

These are the ones I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/Two-way-Zippers-Secret-Pockets-Passport/dp/B01DK9689O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520798032&sr=8-2&keywords=secret+pockets&dpID=413LHXvM%252B6L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

First: get yourself a nice big pad of 18x24 newsprint, some charcoal (a mix of soft vine charcoal and compressed will give you nice range of values and edges to draw with) a kneaded eraser to pull out highlights and correct mistakes, and a chamois cloth (get it really nice and dirty with charcoal) for laying down smooth tones. It's messy, it's weird, but it gives you much more range than a pencil and costs almost nothing. Working larger and sitting further away will help you to form the habit of drawing from the shoulder for smoother line quality. You want this, especially while you're in the early learning stages. Your first step is to teach your body and eyes what to draw, not how to draw X Y or Z or even how to tattoo. That comes much later, and I'm glad to see you already knew that.

Before you jump into the figure focus on basic geometric forms - basic white cubes, cylinders, cones, spheres, etc. Draw them from life, not photographs or imagination. Something like this would be great. I know, they suck - every student I've ever had has let me know, but now they're off making Big Hero 6, League of Legends, and many other awesome projects and would tell you the same. These basic forms help you by reducing variables so you can focus on how light wraps around the form. The difference between a highlight, form light, form shadow, a core shadow, reflected light, and a cast shadow is difficult to pick out when you're dealing with lots of subtle plane changes. This is where you learn the basics of value control to distinguish between different levels of light. Lay down these values with masses, not individual lines. It's kinda half-way between drawing and painting with a broad brush by using the side of the charcoal rather than just the tip.

Certain types of light/shadow produce different edge qualities, pay attention to how hard or soft transitions are from light to dark and think about the physics behind it to understand why - pinning up some light fabric on the wall with a single light off to the side is a fantastic way to see this - the cloth catches the light, creating form and cast shadows as the light wraps around the folds and reflects a little light back onto nearby surfaces.

The goal here is to understand how to represent the light accurately to describe the form (that is all you're doing as an artist- recreating light to trick the eye, it doesn't matter what the subject is) When you're feeling confident with this (and probably filled up 1-3 of those newsprint pads) move on to still life set ups and introduce some more complex forms and add a dash of color (1-2 at a time, keep it simple) Feel free to start playing with the figure, but you'll be hard pressed to find anything more complex and subtle to attempt. Without a teacher present, Andrew Loomis books will be an invaluable resource once you get to this stage. They're free online as PDFs for the most part.

You need a class 15 bobbin case. If you are in the US, amazon has one for $4.

https://www.amazon.com/MACHEE-Sewing-Machine-Loading-Machines/dp/B0042CO7Z6/

or a pair for $7.

https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Bobbin-Loading-Machines/dp/B06ZY7SBBV

These are the ones I use!

There’s honestly the only ones I’ve ever tried. I bought them 3 years ago and used them mostly to just draw on the fabric and less for transfer.

They’re pretty fine tip but the ink does spread a little so you’ll lose some smaller details. They’re really fun to rinse off though! The ink magically vanishes. I bought them 3 years ago and they’re still going strong so I can recommend them as being a really good value for your money too.

I love weird specific tools, but you might need to gauge whether your wife already has them or whether she even needs it (I'm more of a casual dressmaker - no self drafting or designing here) but here ya go!

• Pinking shears
  
• Hollow punch set for punching out marks on patterns
  
• French curve
  
• Tailors ham and sleeve ham
  
• Clover hot hemmers
  
• Loop turner
  
• Double tracing wheel for marking both seam lines and cutting lines at the same time
  
• Wrist pincushion
  
• Bias tape makers
  
• Weird and wonderful feet. Look through there for anything she might use but doesn't have.
  
• Cutting mat and rotary cutter can be life changing. The blades matter though, my personal favourite are fiskars
  
  ​
  
  These are mostly the small tool kind of things. If you're looking for a more big ticket gift it would probably be the mat + rotary cutter (biggest mat you can get!) or an overlocker aka serger

If you had fun and you're looking to dive further into it I'd suggest investing in the following:

• diamond awl like this
  
• diamond chisel(only really need the 2 prong and 5-6 prong) I use these
  
• good braided poly thread like this
  
• good needles John James
  
• Good skiving knife this ones a good starter
  
• Wing dividers I bought these
  
• Edge beveler Like this
  
• You'll also want a leather condition(neatsfoot oil is what I use) and a finisher(resolene, beeswax, snoseal, etc)
  
• Contact cement(Dap weldwood) helps keep things together before you sew them
  
• Dye if you want certain colors
  
  For ~$100 bucks investment and you've got most of the stuff you'll need to make good looking stuff, then you just need to buy leather. I highly recommend picking a project, watching some videos on it and then if you need a new tool for it thats when you buy it. My biggest mistake thus far is thinking I could bypass buying a hole punch, the quality using a punch is so much higher than trying to do it by hand.
  
  As for skills. Look up Saddle stitching, easy to learn and hard to master. With those chisels it makes it really easy to get a good looking product with saddle stitching. Wetforming leather, helps make those sheaths, holsters, etc pop out at you. I like watching Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on youtube, informative and you pick up little tips here and there.
  
  You'll also need to learn to keep your knife sharp! So project 1 if you invest is make a strop and get some jewlers rouge to polish that edge to a razor!

Can someone explain why this sub seems to like these things?

I am of the opinion one should learn something the analogue way until experimenting with a tablet. For one, I find digital art to be lacking texture and sometimes emotion. People wonder "did this person just put an image into photoshop and trace details?"

I would highly recommend spending $20 mastering these basic shapes under a single light source. One could even use an egg, a marshmallow, a shoebox, etc instead.

A 9 year old could draw an accurate sphere from observation no problem even if they can't yet understand the theory of light and form. By this observational exercise, the theory diagram will be self-evident to your son and intuitive over time. Later, the inverse of these forms (a bowl, the inside of a shoebox) are equally important.

Given this knowledge, your son will be well equipped later on, and perhaps the tablet could be a gift for going to middle/high school.

tldr: IMHO a tablet offers little chance to improve one's art compared to a marshmallow.

I did the Shug thing with shock cord, difference being that I put my shock cord up closer to the tarp and used some toggles so I could just slip them into the tie-out (I swap tarps around).

I than just Marlin Spike em to a stake, pull em out tight and drive em in the ground.

I'm pretty sure I'll be doing something different in 6 months cause I hammocking appeals to my tinkering nature.

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Heavy-Stick-Zipper-Barriers/dp/B01DNUIHGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485594855&sr=8-1&keywords=tarp+zipper or something like it, staple/velcro/whatever up the panda plastic so that it seals the outside door frame, stick the zipper in the middle, cut it, boom, roasted.

The only time I sometimes need something is when I am at the end of a thread and I put the needle through the back of a handful of stitches and pull through. That can be a bit tough so I got some silicone ones that just help me grip the needle. They're similar to these ones: Prym Needle Grabber with Breathable Slots and Cut Out Tips- Pink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYFQB3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q3XCybB2B34A3

Frequent breaks (even if they don't last long), stretching, and advil.

Now if it's from the yarn rubbing your finger, I got this rubber thimble thing that quilters use and it saved my fingers! Something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Needle-Grabber-Breathable-Slots-Tips-/dp/B01DYFQB3W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468530015&sr=8-7&keywords=silicone+thimble

I don't have any handy, but I can put these on order:
https://www.amazon.com/Feather-Goose-Repair-Pillow-Feathers/dp/B00UYAE17E

Is 4 lbs enough?

I would go with a plastic buckle that allows the strap to be cinched down.

Shit I’m sorry, each the top and the bottom are $30 not combined, I did it in March and I misremembered this is the bottom and heres the top there’s a chart for how much you need

There are tons of companies that make this stuff. ExOfficio you mentioned, Royal Robbins, Travelsmith and Magellan also come to mind. Or you could simply sew zippered pockets into regular pants, shirts, and jackets.

I don't know if a traditional man's wallet is the best way to carry your cash/cards, because the bulkiness makes it harder to stash; I find a simple zippered lightweight bag a bit bigger than a credit card is easy to slip into whichever pocket I want.

Consider the difference between easily accessible pockets vs. hidden ones not designed to be accessed en route short of an emergency. The former might be a zippered chest pocket as found on many shirts from Travelsmith, for storage of your daily cash allowance. The latter might be hidden inside a pair of pants or an undergarment, for storage of the bulk of your cash.

Hobo Traveler makes pockets that can be sewn into regular clothing.

Of course most of the above vendors make travel vests; Orvis may also. But you probably don't need a million pockets; consider sewing a pocket into an ordinary vest.

For women who may be reading along, a great option is the Macabi skirt, which has very deep, large pockets, and includes a somewhat hidden zippered pocket. Because of the pockets, the rain resistance, the wind protection, and the snaps that let you hitch the skirt up, this is an excellent choice for travel.

Get one of those needle threaders and it won’t matter how big the needle eye is! I like using tiny Hiroshima needles and those would be difficult to thread without the threader.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IBA8SQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aZ5UBbW7VD8HJ

I use this one when I use a 24 needle but I find that it doesn't work as well if I use a smaller one. https://www.123stitch.com/item/Dritz-LoRan-Needle-Threader/DRITZ-NT1

I also really like these wire ones. It's the same idea of the flimsy silver ones but they don't fall apart constantly.
yueton 30pcs Plastic Wire Loop DIY Needle Threader Stitch Insertion Hand Machine Sewing Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IBA8SQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_jCE9x9sPCRTTx

I recently used this to make 5 foam batts in a few sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6RQ3HJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are great for larger pieces and plates. They don't work well for small 1 pound bowls, they just slide away. I epoxied the foam to a wood bat and it holds marvelously. With a sharpie you can put circles on the foam for centering and it is very forgiving of odd lipps/imperfect circularity.

I see. I said this to someone yesterday but have you thought about a mouse with some additional buttons?

Having your main rotation at your thumb changed everything for me.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Titanwolf-configurable-technology-programmable-acceleration/dp/B01GD0PH0S/ref=asc_df_B01GD0PH0S/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310568533429&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=637929035458506898&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046884&hvtargid=pla-627645571357&psc=1

For example* (sorry for the size of this link, I'm commuting an using my phone)

I honestly don't really think mastery is something attainable with a mouse only? Could be wrong of course. Anyone?

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

These machines are all clones, so the other poster is right, it's probably a standard class 15 bobbin case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY7SBBV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BxYxCbYVA2SM9

> saying goodbye to VR-face

and also goodbye to light leak around the sides/temples which is also addressed. I'm going to do this for sure!

I ordered

(1) 2" x 18" x 18"

(1) 3" x 18" x 18" (going to see about 3" in spots. for science)

https://www.amazon.com/Upholstery-Cushion-Density-Replacement-Padding/dp/B00EV3W43S?th=1

I use these: YEHAM®Disappearing Ink Vanishing Air Erasable Pen(9 PACK,3 COLOR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182HZZ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aNMLBbJ5GMNF2

I draw on the grid and the ink comes out when wet! Just make sure to try them each on a spare piece of fabric first. My pink ones leave a weird yellow tint when washed off, but my blue ones work perfectly!

Here's the part of I think you're missing: The product page on the website is somewhat commingled... All vendors selling a product are attached to the same ad, but the customer gets to choose the vendor they want to buy from. Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/25-National-Molding-Mojave®-Plastic/dp/B00IDBJH9I

See where it says "Sold by Dahc and Fulfilled by Amazon." Amazon is selecting a vendor (Dahc) for you. But if you look under the Add to Cart button, it says Other Sellers on Amazon. You could click there and buy it from Country Brook Design Inc.

If you use the main Add To Cart button, you WILL get the buckles set to Amazon from Dahc and NOT from Country Brook Design. If you click the smaller add to cart by Country Brook Design, you will get the product they sent to Amazon and not the one from Dahc. You the customer decides who you buy from, but most people ignore that and just click the main Add To Cart button.

It's always important to pay attention to which vendor you're buying from. Check out each vendor's ratings by clicking where it says "New (2) from $10.49". you may see where other customers have had issues with a particular vendor.

I hope this helps clear it up.

The simplest and most effective comfort mod is a counterweight. Find something about 9 to 15 ounces or so. Velcro it with one of those velcro strap loop things to the bottom of the rear headstrap. Now you can loosen up some of the side straps so it’s not crushing your face.

I use a piece of round steel rod. A lot of others use a battery pack. Others have used rolled coins, like a roll of quarters.

I’ve had the crappy halo strap from China, the Deluxe Audio Strap with 3D printed adapters, and the Studioform strap. For me a 10oz steel rod, wrapped in electrical tape and held on with a soft Velcro strap, like this, has been the most comfortable. My daughter prefers the counterweight with the Studioform.

Hope that helps.

I stitch a grid in with braided fishing line:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074T7ZNZ7

not just because I am a masochist but because I use dark fabrics so I always assumed the pens won't show up. I am going to do a light fabric next so I was planning trying these pens:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWEAPSS

The hemp fiber makes all the difference with concentrates. Any dry herb you add will had a vaped herb taste.

https://www.amazon.com/Kilogram-Grade-Degummed-Hemp-Fiber/dp/B014X07XT8/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1487003712&sr=1-1&keywords=degummed+hemp+fiber

When I got it it was only $20

I use these by Leonis

They're pretty good and come out of fabric easily.

I need to replace the toggle buttons on my duffel coat and need some help figuring out what to replace them with. The coat is charcoal so I think I want some black buttons with black thread as opposed to the tan/brown they have now.

It was easy to find some buttons online like these: http://www.amazon.com/HOUSWEETY-Toggle-Sewing-Buttons-4x1-1cm/dp/B015OFLXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456947574&sr=8-1&keywords=black+toggle+buttons

I don't know what to use as the thread though. The current thread is like a hemp rope, but it has worn through after two winters so I want something more durable and that is also black. I was thinking of a thread kind of similar to a shoelace, but I have no idea what to look for. Can anyone give me some suggestions?

Honestly I would recommend selling your zpacks quilt via r/ulgeartrade or facebook and use the funds to buy a quilt with better designed footbox. Adding down wont solve your cold feet problem, and will be a messy hastle.

Footbox comparison: https://imgur.com/a/B0Xnz
See how the zpacks is basically an envelope with no room for your toes? So your toes stick into your insulation. Vs the second style which is an actual box and has room for your feet without them sticking into your down. I know this is not the answer you want but i hope it helps you in the long run

If youre stubborn and don't want to sell the zpacks then here's some down, I've bough from rose feather before. I don't think it's RSD certified but it's good quality stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYAE17E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_y9UIAbE5HE61F

Velcro everything in bundles and run it behind the desk. Use the large Velcro that comes in rolls and stick the soft side to your desk. Cut a few 1ft pieces and place them perpendicular to the bundle of wires. After the soft side is properly placed along the route (perpendicular) place the hard side but leave the plastic over the sticky part. If you have any question let me know.

​

link to velcro - https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B00JWU77N2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1550107213&sr=8-7&keywords=velcro+roll

Interesting. I suppose the magnet is too weak to draw your wrist into dangerous machinery. I prefer a wrist pincushion and own one with a top like this. I do have a magnetic dish for pins and a magnet on a stick for picking up pins.

It's a Titanwolf gaming mouse.
I've had no problems with it since I got it for christmas!

If price isnt an issue then this

If price is an issue then this

If price is a really big issue then

Big happy birthday to you! ❤

I got this set of stitch markers off Amazon. They are great for the price!

Knitting Stitch Counter | LeBeila Crochet Locking Stitch Markers Mix Multi-Colored Stitch Needle Clip/Safety Pins For knitting & Baby’s Clothing Usage(Color Ship Randomly) (50PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01118B22E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_H-EQzb6PG4W4R

I even saw there were some cheaper ones on there too

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Black-White-Panda-Film/dp/B018VI6ZUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=panda+film&qid=1567808442&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Heavy-Stick-Zipper-Barriers/dp/B01DNUIHGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=stick+on+zipper&qid=1567808518&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE4MjhWRU1QNEs1TEwmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NDA2NjZCNVM0Vjg4MDFWQU4mZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQzOTkzMTFOQVdQREpIWVg2QlEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Not sure if that zipper is light proof but now you can shop around and fight out what fits your needs.

I found this https://www.amazon.com/Kilogram-Grade-Degummed-Hemp-Fiber/dp/B014X07XT8. It's 1/2 Kilogram... how long would that last?

How much foam? I get upholstery foam from Amazon. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EV3W43S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1