Best tie-down ratcheting products according to redditors
We found 115 Reddit comments discussing the best tie-down ratcheting products. We ranked the 61 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 115 Reddit comments discussing the best tie-down ratcheting products. We ranked the 61 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Rocket Straps
If you own a truck and don't own ratchet tie down straps you are doing life wrong.
I've seen several places where they use one of these tools to tension zip ties, and they can pull them pretty tight. Definitely not recommended for cables
I've thought about an awning for a while now and as the first summer with the doggo approaches I figured we should have some supplemental shade for our adventure. Not yet sure if I want an ARB-type awning mounted full time to the van, or a standalone awning, I settled on the $25 setup from Walmart for our long weekend trip to Jackson Hole
Shopping list:
In order to quicken setup (but reduce a bit of flexibility in setup) I've done the following.
Trip reports to come.
EDIT: Worked great in winds up to about 25mph. Will nee more trips for further reports.
cheapest way would be to buy some of these and a set of these
cut the foam to the width of your cars roof, then lay your yak upside down on top of them, run one strap over the front just behind your windshield and one over the back just in front of your rear window... when you tighten them they do not need to be so tight that it deforms the shape of your hull, just tight enough to keep it from sliding off... it would also be a good idea to tie a chord from the front of the kayak to your front bumper and also one from the rear of the kayak to your rear bumper
Make sure they are properly secured to your roof. If anything, a few of these can hold down your panels. Just dont put foo much force or you could crack them. I used those to hold my AC units to the roof.
I hate socket rails.
The new sockets are so tight you need pliers to get them off, and will probably break the rail, but the heavily used sockets fall off.
Plus they dont fit in a tool box nicely because you need a ton of them.
It only holds 10 while a normal set is 13 sockets....so 3 random sockets are left to roll around the drawer but thats 3 from the normal set, 3 from the deep set, 3 from the impact set, 3 from the sae set, and 3 from the sae deep set.
Plus it doesnt travel well. Now they take twice the space and all fall off anyway.
/rant sorry I just wish there was a better solution.
Honestly I have given up and use the reusable twist ties. Just toss them on (usually in order) then twist the end so they stay. Have to take them all off but at least it is easy and quick
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-86570-Nylon-Tensioning/dp/B004G3RO5G/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505905033&sr=8-6&keywords=Cable+tie+cutter
Or the gun style.
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XVP9ZPM/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
a smaller one for paracord: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KSKY0KS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-GT6-2PK-01-Reusable-6-Inch/dp/B004MMEHKQ
Cargo Bull Rings for the Bed
Ratchet Straps
Mult-gift set of a grit guard, large waffle-weave micofiber towel, and 1) some 2) good 3) soap
Stubby antenna because the stock one makes the truck look like an RC car
An actual RC Colorado ZR2
Net: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009PVUR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ratchet straps: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7KSAGI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The net wire is longer than the width of the poles at North Ave Beach, so you have to wrap one end around the pole a couple of times, and then use the ratchet straps to tighten the wire.
I totally know the struggle!
One option is to use reusable rubber gear ties to secure the front wheel to the downtube. This way it won't pivot too much, and will stay mostly upright. You can then lean it against the wall without worrying about the front wheel.
As for locking up to a rack, I tend to pivot the wheel all the way in one direction and lean against the bike as I lock up the rear wheel/chain stay. Then it stays upright while I use a second U-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame or rack. Since you mentioned locking, I want to make sure you know proper locking technique. Having had a bike stolen, I know how important it is! I'd definitely recommend 2 U-locks to secure both wheels and the frame. If you don't know what I'm talking about, please feel free to ask any questions! (I just don't want to waste your time if you already know!)
In terms of wheeling it around the garage, I find that through time holding the handle bars and walking it, you figure out what works through trial and error.
Klein Nylon Tie Tensioning Tool
I like it a lot. I had several requirements for an antenna
After hemming and hawing and Googling and reading eham reviews for what seemed like forever, I ultimately decided on the Titan.
Meets all my requirements. Mounted on a tilt base, I can have it up or down in a minute or two. No radial field required as it's a dipole, just vertical. No coils or traps to fuss with and it's a more efficient antenna as a result. Very good on 10-40, just so-so on 80. Has a nice low takeoff angle for working that sweet DX. Can be ground mounted, doesn't need an elevated mounting position for optimal performance.
It's holding up very well. Gap says it doesn't need to be guyed and will withstand substantial winds , but 60+mph winds are a routine occurrence here and it whips around a frightening amount, so I've devised a quick attach guying system for it with 3 guy lines that run down to some tent stakes in the yard with some camming rope tightners attached.
The not so good. I find the choice of sheet metal screws to hold everything together questionable. On the main mast, this is acceptable, as there's no access to attach a backing bolt anyway, but on all of the stub sections, I would have much preferred to see proper drilled holes with machine screws. To its credit, everything holds together just fine and nothing has loosened on me. I give everything a quick checkover once a month.
The copper wire that comes with it for the 40m hoop is awful stuff. It's stiff and prone to kinking and breaking. I swapped it out for some Flexweave wire and I'm very happy now.
Some more pics to give you a better idea of size. It's 25' tall and weight probably 25 pounds or so. It's a piece of cake to walk it up and down on the tilt mast.
https://imgur.com/a/vnyjj
Last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:
foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note that with the straps, you'll want to twist them so that they don't make an awful buzzing sound!
Is it flexible or rigid? If flexible, it reminds me of something like these ties.
I got these last year. They work well, but I dislike the carabiner they come with (it will catch on the paracord if you're not careful). But, I think a carabiner is worth it versus a plain hook. Personally, I ordered two sets, just to have a spare in case the paracord snaps. It never did all last season, so I can recommend it. Also, while you can ratchet as tight as you want, you really should just make sure it is secure, and not overdo it. The bow and stern lines are just for secondary support...the main support is from the side straps on your boat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When I worked HVAC and installed flexible insulated ductwork, there was a specific, specialized tool that was pretty awesome. The conduit secured to the boots with these massive zipties, way bigger than even the handcuff-sized ones.
You looped the tie around the junction, started it in the clasp, then put the end of the tie into the ratcheting hand tool. Then you just squeezed it, released it, like a hand exerciser, it pulled the tie to a tension you could specify (strong enough to crush a galvanized steel boot if your weren't careful) and when it hit that spec-tension, it automatically clipped it off even right at the clasp.
And all this took about 10-20 seconds. I don't know, but I'd almost bet there is a similar tool for many smaller ziptie applications.
Edit: it MAY have been this specific one http://www.amazon.com/Klein-86570-Nylon-Tensioning-Tool/dp/B004G3RO5G
I was thinking the same thing- I use these things which apparently are called "tie-down straps" to carry music gear. They are kind of heavy though- would be very interested in lightweight versions if you have a link. I couldn't find anything with hooks that didn't weigh a few pounds.
Shouldn't need the pulley, prussik, or cordalette if you pick up one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KSKY0KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ge0UDbNCMH8PG) from your local hardware store. Anchor the cam on the far side and run both strands of the tag back. You should be able to monitor/control feeding the webbing out as you pull the tag in
Nite-Ize Gear Ties are pretty good for fiddling, plus can be very handy.
Begleri are also a popular option on r/EDC.
If you want to do any long term camping, the first trick you need to learn is the home made canopy. Takes about 30-45 minutes to set up and makes a rainy trip much more enjoyable.
First you need a large tarp, something like this. Then you need like 2 packs of ratchet straps and a nice rope like this. Finally, a couple packs of heavy duty metal tent stakes and some small rope
So you find an area that has 2 trees about 50 feet apart and tie the rope around the trunk about 10 feet up. Then run it over to the other tree, but instead of tying it to the tree, make a knot that leaves a loop sticking out. Put a ratchet strap around the tree and connect that to the rope loop and pull it tie. It'll stretch after a bit so you can tighten it up more as needed without undoing the whole thing.
Then you throw the tarp over the rope and create an A frame style canopy. Use the stakes and extra ratchet straps to tighten the corners down nicely then use stakes and the 1/4" rope to fill in the gaps.
So 45 minutes later you have a 1000 square foot pavilion to camp under, it can rain all it wants. It's also high enough that you can build a modest fire under and not damage the tarp.
Throw out some chairs, fold out picnic table and you're good to go.
Was gonna do the same thing myself until I ponied up and paid for a real one but here's what i was gonna use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JS1R3V6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=CSOJRV79HZIC&coliid=IMAGRCS8UH4SM
nope, they just have a spring on a cam shaped thing with teeth/ridges to hold the strap in place.
https://www.amazon.com/SmartStraps-Cambuckle-10ft-GRN-300lb/dp/B000X1YUZC
I have a short bed F350 which is a little bit larger than the 150 bed and I have never needed more than the four, 15ft straps I carry, and I've carried some obnoxiously large furniture before.
The 4 pack cost me 30 bucks and each are rated for 3000 pounds, which is like 2500 pounds more than I think I will ever put on them.
They're kinda pricey, but I'm becoming a big fan of managing cables with bendy things of this sort: Nite Ize Gear Tie.
Rocket Straps - Premium Ratchet Tie Downs 4 Pack - 15 Feet - 1500 Pound - Heavy Duty Ratcheting Hold Down Motorcycle, ATV, Moving Appliances, Camping, Lawn Equipment and Truck Use - Secure Your Cargo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FEAQDIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q0FMybJZQ3HB7
$14
Here is my setup. Lots of hair and dirt, but the seats look brand new when I take it all off. None of the hair ends up in the front seats either, even with the windows down.
First I lay down a large black towel on the seat and tuck in the edges. Then I have a black Formosa Cover that wraps down to the floor and around the ends of the seats. I tried a normal pet hammock before and it wasn't nearly as protective. I have fitted the hammock with some velcro on the seat ends so that they stay in place after many jumps in and out. I also have the floor end of the hammock tied with rubber twist ties around the seatbelt because my girlfriend's dog tries to crawl under it often and this stopped that.
The doors have Kurgo Door Guards with 3M non-slip grip surface added to the inside face of the door guard and black velvet added to the outside (glass) face for the tinted windows. I tried an adhesive door guard and it was junk.
Lastly the Solvit Pet Barrier keeps my girlfriend's dog from jumping over. I also found that it keeps pet hair out of the front so I have it up even when her dog isn't in the car. I do not tie it down as shown in the product page, as the pet hammock keeps it in place.
I use a 150-lb capacity ratchet tie down. It also comes in a 250-lb capacity version for $3 more. More compound pulley systems are unnecessary as the body weight of even the slightest brewers should be able to lift most mashes.
I hook the pulley part to my fixed point (a ladder in my case) and the tag end of the rope that has the hook attached to my bag. Pull the other end of the rope to lift. Bag will not lower until I simultaneously pull onrope and press the release.
After mashing 1 lb of dry barley malt, it weighs about 1.2 lbs fully drained but I estimate about 4 lb of force is needed initially to lift it when waterlogged. Adding a 50% margin of safety, the 150-lb ratchet allows me do a 18.75-lb mash (and 37.5 lb without the extra 50% safety margin).
Obviously, it is equally important that your attachment point can also safely handle 150 or 250 lb. Use a lag bolt through the joist or wrap strong rope around the joist and use only rated hooks and carabiners. Beware of “decorative” carabiners!
It's funny I was just looking for something like that the other day....
1" webbing: http://www.amazon.com/SmartStraps-146-Green-Capacity-Cambuckle/dp/B000X1YUZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397184616&sr=8-1&keywords=small+ratchet+strap#productDetails
Also looks like various cambuckles at: http://www.strapworks.com/High_Quality_s/28.htm at least one is 3/4"
For tie-downs, you'll likely need two straps on the sides and two tie-downs on the front/back and something underneath the kayak to hold it in place and not damage it/your vehicle.
For the front/back, you can get this one, which I just got as it has good reviews on Amazon and the ratcheting combined with the carabiners seemed good to me: http://www.amazon.com/Malone-Racks-SpeedLine-Ratchet-Tie-Downs/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463786146&sr=8-1&keywords=malone+tie+down
For the sides, I just got 2 of these from REI: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft
I also simply got just a couple foam blocks for the top of my car, although I suppose with a Jeep it might be something different: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks
My kayak is a Loon 120 from REI. I like it, but perhaps a bit on the pricey side for a new kayak, although it looks like it is on sale now: https://www.rei.com/product/100146/old-town-loon-120-kayak-black-cherry
Buy the reusable rubber twist ties of sufficient length to tie it on to your handlebars and then wrap another one around your bat where it would make contact with your headset or headtube?
I am thinking like these: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-GT18-2PK-01-Reusable-18-Inch/dp/B004MMEHOC/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1462416952&sr=1-6&keywords=Nite+Ize+Reusable+Gear+Tie
I took a camp of two people and all our belongings in my 2012 Honda Civic with the back seats folded down. It was a tight fit but it worked.
Note that I bought one of these to put on top of the car to hold light/soft stuff (tents, sleeping bags, pillows, air mattresses):
http://www.roofbag.com/
And I bought some of these (or rough equivalent) to give it some additional security to the roof of the car:
http://www.amazon.com/Everest-S1043-Yellow-Standard-Ratchet/dp/B006QGD996/
But note also that I had WAY more volume of stuff than a typical new camp of two people would. I had 2ft. x 2ft. x 4ft. worth of foam boards to build my shelter, which took up more than half the back seat of the Civic. A tent is a lot smaller. And my friend and I each had an inflatable air mattress to sleep on in luxurious comfort. (I actually do recommend that; of course make sure your pump has charged batteries, or can be powered from your car's accessory port.) And we had about 80 feet of PVC pipe for building a shade structure, and a massive tarp to put over it.
All of that stuff took up lots of space. You will probably be packing lighter. (Although you do want to put some thought into shading yourself from the sun. But it can be done with a lot less volume worth of shit than we had.)
EDIT: Oh, we did use one other space-saving trick, which you might be able to do as well -- we found someone who was taking a box truck, and paid them in advance to bring water for us. 2 people 2 gallons 7 days =~ 30 gallons or so, which takes up a lot of space in a car but is nothing to someone with a truck. (Just make sure they're bringing it in some form you can carry back to your camp, i.e. 1- or 2.5-gallon containers. And do bring enough water with you in the car to survive at least the trip plus 24 hours, in case you get stranded or your water gets lost en route or something, and you need to make alternate plans.)
Nite-ize Gear tie
They can be bent into a suitable stand at any angle you wish, take up very little space and have multiple other uses as well.
Nite Ize GT6-2PK-01 Gear Tie Reusable 6-Inch Rubber Twist Tie, 2-Pack, Black
http://amzn.com/B004MMEHKQ
I wrap about a 6" roll of both sides of the cable with a 6" Nite Ize gear tie. amzn.com/B004MMEHKQ Then toss it in my pack.
These rope tighteners are awesome. They can only tighten until you release them. The release is mechanical I’ve never had an issue. Nite Ize CamJam XT Aluminum Rope Tightener, Large Versatile Tie Down Cam Mechanism With Carabiner Clip + 500 LB Load Limit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XVP9ZPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oLnQCbWGD25BE
One of these inside the arms and legs of a long limbed (pink panther) type stuffy? just wrap hands together?
Closest in price: $2.98 twisty thing but it's an add-on, so for a normal item $2.91 corner bumpers with free shipping
Math related: USB with AES 256-bit encryption but I also have an "Ultimate Pi" wishlist with an item.
Main straps I open the doors and go through the car. I do that mostly for speed because I don't have to worry about the extra length of straps. Got them from Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-in-x-12-ft-Ratchet-Tie-Down-4-Pack-FH0829/206802316
When I travel more than 20 minutes to the lake, I strap down the front and back using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I installed a hitch on the car, so the rear tie downs get tied to that.
Yup I have one. Super durable and no one will be able to steal my bike. I strap it onto the top of my rear rack with these Nite Ize tie down things which keep the huge lock super still and prevent it from banging around everywhere. Also much quieter.
It is quite heavy but the security is worth it for me for a $1200 ebike.
I've had great luck with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H6QWWC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And, bonus question, could it be done with these straps (which I already own)?
$15 4x7 uhaul trailer with 4 of these does the trick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H6QWWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I tow it behind a Honda Accord. The first time towing was kind of nerve wracking, but after you realize nothing's gonna happen it gets easier and you can actually focus on driving instead of looking at the bike in the rearview every 5 minutes.
I also have the $70 ramp from Amazon. I've used it to load into a pickup truck bed, but wouldn't recommend it. It's handy for loading into the uhaul trailer tho.
Correct, you can hang them off the pullup bar.
I made mine out of two tie downs, like these.
Here
You loop it through so the non-hooked sided is the loaded end (so when you pull on the non-hooked side of the strap it holds tight)
Two 8" pieces of 1" PVC threaded on for handles, then a surgeons knot to form the loop.
Loop the top over the pullup bar, put the short end hook around the loaded end of the strap, and you can easily adjust them for height.
Probably with tiedown straps of some sort. Something like this. I don't know anything about that brand just showing as an example.
Stupid question, what do you use to tie down the bikes? Can you just use rope or does it have to actually be these things?
http://www.amazon.com/Everest-S1043-Yellow-Standard-Ratchet/dp/B006QGD996/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411054018&sr=8-1&keywords=tie+down+straps
Also, about fitting in the minivan, do you think non- dual sport bikes would fit? Do I just look up the total height of the bike and compare it to the clearance of the van?
Thanks
Yes, you got it... Anything that doesn't scream "remember how crappy I was at holding up your little stain glass thing ten years ago?" even if there is no actual engineering benefit. Something like this: Shells® Version 2 White 22LB Powerful Heavy Duty Vacuum Suction Cups Hooks Hangers Ideal For Home, Work And Travel-- 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MAZIG6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.4g1xbTCVCME5 or WUMN Accessories Suction Cup Soap Dish - Stainless Steel For Bathroom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNMMR20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V6g1xbJZ88850 or AIRHEAD AHSUP-A010 SUP Suction Cup Tie Downs (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JS1R3V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V5g1xb6TEK2NT
I also like these.. easy to undo quick for learning
more(have not tried these, but i will have to now)
and
less
Here you go, more cheap improvised clamps.
well you could tilt it on an angle so it doesn't fall. You could get some straps and mount them to your wall and strap the bed to the wall with these.
http://www.amazon.com/51031A-Ratcheting-Tie-Down-PVC-Coated-4-Piece/dp/B000N82I2W/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1457068974&sr=8-1&keywords=pickup+truck+straps
and then just find a hook to mount into your wall and ratchet that sucker down. Something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Ceiling-Anchor-Hanger-Suspension/dp/B0159MAFYO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457069016&sr=8-4&keywords=hook+for+a+wall+strap
Two 6 inch reusable Gear Ties. Super cool and many uses, besides being fun to have at your desk.
Hey fellow 4runner owner! Here’s what I use. The Thule straps are awesome. So simple to use and so secure. Using an additional 1 foot webbing loop, I’ve strapped 2 iSUPs (6” thick apiece) to the roof.
Thule 531 Express Surf Strap Blue One Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MZZF4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1h5YCbYYRSS84
Dorsal Aero Crossbar Roof Rack Pads for Car Surfboard Kayak SUP Snowboard Racks 28 Inch Long [Pair] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00996WIJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Om5YCbTYKFA1H
Since I have to travel on the freeway to any body of water, I also use bow and stern tie downs.
Malone Auto Racks SpeedLine Mini Ratchet Tie-Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SVX1CbT7QYMAZ
I have iSUPs but sometimes I’ll inflate at home and strap to roof the night before. They way we can just put in right away when we get there. I deflate after our paddle and put in the back on for the ride home.
It's just 3/4" webbing with a plastic buckle. You can find the webbing and buckles at something like Joanne's Fabric or Michaels and make your own (if you can sew). If not find someone to sew it for you, won't take more than 5 minutes.
Just a note about the buckle; the original has a clamp lock so it doesn't move. If you just use a buckle on it's own, it will tend to loosen when it rides over a hard edge like the leg of a tripod. If you can't find a clamp lock buckle, you'll also need a "slide" which will keep the buckle from slipping. If you can't sew, you can actually use two "slides", one on each side, but it does make adjusting a little more difficult.
You should be able to find accessory straps at a camping gear shop. Velcro straps may work, a thin belt would also work if you have a spare and cut it down. You could just thread some cord and tie it off every time.
Rubber twist ties may be the easiest solution.
Good luck!
Something like this that you close in your hood and trunk Shoreline Marine Propel hood Trunk tie-Down Loops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRBXQUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W04-ybYDMSS41
And the ropes Malone Auto Racks SpeedLine Mini Ratchet Tie-Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q14-yb5825GX5
Just get a Nite Ize Camjam and don't worry about anything else. https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Aluminum-Tightener-Carabiner/dp/B00XVP9ZPM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1496112801&sr=8-13&keywords=nite-ize+carabiner
Something like this one by Klein tools.
I wrap them around my hand, then secure them with a short one of these
These also make a great headset boom mic when combined with one of these heavy duty twist ties (which were cheaper at my local hardware store). I have studio headphones that I like to use for gaming an this is a much cheaper option than a modmic or boompro without sacrificing much quality. No one I've played with has complained about it and it sounds fine when I test it.
IMO, the lines over the hull are just there to keep it from sliding side to side or lifting up and bouncing off the rack if I hit a bump. The bow and stern lines are by far the most important for keeping the boat on the rack.
I tie a bowline around the bow and run the line to the front cross member of the rack. This keeps the boat from sliding off the front of the truck if I were to hit the breaks hard. Then I tie another bowline around the stern and tie a truckers hitch around the rear rack cross member. This tensioning truckers hitch is essentially trying to slide the canoe off the front of the rack, but it can't because of the line tied to the bow and front of the rack.
I agree with others that if the boat is moving on the rack, it is more of a problem with the tie down method than with the rack. Use those cam buckle straps (https://www.amazon.com/SmartStraps-Cambuckle-10ft-GRN-300lb/dp/B000X1YUZC) or learn how to tie a truckers hitch and the boat won't budge.
Pelican is great if you have the money. But you can build a homemade plywood box for 1/4 of the price that works equally well. Just make sure your robot is supported by the frame (not wheels!) and that it can not move inside the box - we used car tie-downs (like this one) to fasten it to the bottom.
If there's a wrecker nearby with a radiator support / hood latch I would go and grab that. I think it is spot welded in a couple of spots, but I don't remember.
If not, remove the hood latch and you can get better access to the point where it is bent in / pinch weld for the bracket and use some combination vice grips / chain / breaker bar as the other user said. Or, grab the frame pulling clamps and attach it to some good [ratcheting straps] (https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-04622-Ratcheting-Capacity-J-Hooks/dp/B00021XQLC/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1504802277&sr=8-14&keywords=ratchet+straps+with+hooks). Wrap the other end around a solid, fixed object and clamp away. I've done that to some stuff that needed straightening out in my old Celica.
cheapest way? make your own makeshift softracks for cheap. go to walmart, or kmart, or wherever and get a pool noodle and a couple of racheting tie downs. cut the pool noodle in half, and put the two pieces in between the board and your roof. put the tie-downs over the board and through the passenger compartment and cinch them down.