Best tools & home improvement > paint, wall treatments & supplies according to redditors

We found 3,520 Reddit comments discussing the best tools & home improvement > paint, wall treatments & supplies. We ranked the 1,670 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Subcategories:

House paint rollers
Household bristle paint brushes
Power paint & HVLP sprayers
Household paint & primers
Wall surface repair products
Tools & Home Improvement > Paint, Wall Treatments & Supplies > Prep Materials
Wallpapers
Wallpaper borders
3D wall panels
Houshehold finishes, sealers & stains
Household painting supplies & tools
Wallpaper & wallpapering supplies

Top Reddit comments about Paint, Wall Treatments & Supplies:

u/Nekrofeeelyah · 141 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

that's nothing. My personal favorite.

u/SpecterCody · 127 pointsr/battlestations

Credit to u/Joker1661 and their setup using them that inspired me to give them a shot. Heres a link to them btw.

u/xbomes84 · 114 pointsr/battlestations

Monitor is Samsung CHG90

Wall tiles are from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Art3d-Textures-Panels-Diamond-Design/dp/B073NZ67LK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=3d+wall+panels&qid=1563640722&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

GTX 1080

32 GB of TridentZ memory

Ryzen 2700X

​

Water cooling setup is next.

u/worldslargestorange · 83 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

Wallmonkeys Senior Woman with Asthma Wall Decal Peel and Stick Graphic (24 in H x 21 in W) WM335116 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0150BAJYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0IsTBbSR6S5R8

For anyone who wants to recreate this fantastic vehicle

u/Donials · 77 pointsr/Cr1TiKaL
u/dallinj · 65 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Edit: I'M SO SORRY FOR THE ACCIDENTAL CLICKBAIT, THEY ARE JUST STYLED LIKE A PRO-CONTROLLER, MY FAULT

After seeing the countless posts of other custom shell swaps, I figured I had waited long enough to do my own, but with a little modern twist, in this case making them look similar to the pro-controller. I think it turned out really well!

Parts/Items List

  • Transparent Shells w/ D-Pad
  • Tool Kit
  • Black Spray Dye
  • Matte Spray Finish

    Disassembly

    The first thing I did, was obviously taking apart my original (Neon Red) shells to be able to switch the parts into my painted shells. I decided against using the transparent battery trays, and instead opted to spray paint them matte black, as it darkens the whole joy-con overall, and it was a very simple paint job. For disassembly and reassembly I used Spawn Wave's Video as it was the clearest, but most concise video I'd found, but any tutorial works fine. The tool kit I linked works wonders, and has everything you'll need, from tri-point screwdrivers to little pliers. I then took all the disassembled pieces and set them into separate containers so I wouldn't lose anything.

    Painting

    To start off, I washed all the shell pieces with some water, and let them dry, just so no dust particles got trapped. I made a little spray painting "rig" with some cardboard pieces so I could set the front shells on top and ensure I sprayed all sides evenly. I started with 6-7 fairly light coats of the Tamiya Smoke Dye, and made sure it was the right darkness, before letting it dry a few hours. I waited 3 minutes between coats, making sure I sprayed evenly on all pieces. Only issue I did have with the smoke was that it run out of paint right after the final coat, so be aware of that.

    Following the dye drying, I sprayed two coats of the Krylon Matte paint, before again letting it dry for a couple hours. I wish I had gone a little lighter on the matte, as a little more transparency would've been awesome, but I honestly can't complain with the final product.

    Wrap-Up

    After they had completely dried, I slipped the pieces back into the shells (once again following Spawn Wave's video) and sealed it up. Overall it wasn't too difficult a process, but if there are any tips I'd suggest, I would recommend making sure to apply a fair bit of pressure when unscrewing and screwing on the screws. I was close to stripping the phillips head screws on the analog sticks, but luckily I avoided that entirely. One issue I did have with the shells, was that the plus button isn't quite as clicky as before, but it really is only a minor issue. All-in-all I'm very happy with them, and they've got a great matte texture that feels good on the hands. If you've got any questions or clarifications, let me know and I'll help you out!

u/righteous4131 · 59 pointsr/malelivingspace
u/Scwinsett · 59 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/FeatherlessBiped88 · 50 pointsr/dankmemes
u/Oppressor · 41 pointsr/gaming

Uh, I just used some acrylic paint my wife had in her craft supplies. Didn't seem like anything fancy. And I did clear coat it!

Edit: The bottles looked like this!

Edit2: Missed the part where you asked about clear coating, but this is what I used to clear coat.

u/[deleted] · 39 pointsr/programming

$200 bucks for 50 sqft?

Go down to lowes and buy some Rust-Oleum dry erase paint for $24 bucks instead. You won't get the hipster packaging, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=263503-90-241140

Amazon says that it covers 49 sqft, so you save 180 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC

u/Stone-Bear · 37 pointsr/DIY

This is really awesome. I still have parts of this helmet printed but never finished it (its on the list). I'm a prop maker by trade and I just wanted to give you some tips for further smoothing if you're ever so inclined to do more :D

Several layers of filler primer gets rid of the minor print lines on all surfaces. 3-4 layers with sanding in between gets rid of all of them and they come out crazy smooth. Bondo Spot putty is also amazing for anything else the filler primer may have missed.

Another material I've seen used for smooth is wall spackle! Its a bit easier to manage than Bondo/filler primer and a bit easier to sand. note: It does not like to be wet sanded lol.

For example, here's a mask I finished. printed & finished

here's a mask in different phases of finishing

If any one else is interested, I have a full tutorial on this process here

u/Joker1661 · 28 pointsr/battlestations

Art3d Textures 3D Wall Panels White Diamond Design Pack of 12 Tiles 32 Sq Ft (PVC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZ67LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_axUFDbQVY4430

I cut them with some tin snips so that I could inlay the nanoleafs. I also filled in the empty gaps with some spray foam and cut / sanded them down. Probably more trouble than it's worth, but I love how the nanoleaf lights play off of them.

u/Sarspazzard · 21 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

If you want that specific bag to have water resistance, you can add a hydrophobic coating to it with this [Rust-Oleum spray.](Rust-Oleum 278146 NeverWet 11-Ounce Outdoor Fabric Spray, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KRHF8E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AuQ-zbEF5DKD1) Then it'll be perfect for everything but extended submersion.

There's also a multipurpose variant in [a can.](Rust Oleum 274232 Never Wet Multi Purpose Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNQBFAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvQ-zbMNGXTYW)

u/Robbbbbbbbb · 21 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Hydrophobic coatings have been a thing for a while. You can do the same thing for much, much cheaper.

u/ali_rose · 18 pointsr/learnart

I love charcoal but it takes a bit to understand how to utilize it correctly. In my opinion though, it goes so much faster than full pencil drawings and it gets much more impressive and dramatic results.

One of the easiest techniques is to actually work 'backwards' from a traditional graphite drawing. You may want to pick up some 'Vine' / 'Willow' Charcoal sticks These are very soft but lightly toned pieces of charcoal. You'll scrub one over the entire piece of paper and use a tissue to smooth it resulting in a gray toned background. Here you won't be starting with a pure white sheet of paper.

From there you'll make a gesture drawing of what you'd like to draw with a lighter charcoal pencil (2H or the gray pencil farthest to the right in your drawing tin). After, you'll go in with an eraser and erase out the light areas to almost bring back the white of your paper (those pink rectangle erasers you use/used in school are great for this). After that, you can actually dive in and start shading. You'll start by shading with your lightest charcoal pencils and work your way up to the darkest shades (in your tin work right to left with the gray pencils) Your lightest highlights you can achieve by using a piece of chalk or a white charcoal pencil These will be the absolute lightest parts of the image, so don't go overboard.

From there, just darken and lighten areas until you're satisfied with it.

Some stuff you might want to pick up =
Workable Fixatif - This will help keep the mess to a minimum. You'd spray this after every day that you work on the drawing. (But don't spray it until you've erased out all of the highlight areas!) As the name suggests, it is workable so you can still erase out some of it, but it won't be as forgiving.
Final Fixative
This is the stuff you spray on the final drawing. You're done and you don't want to change anything anymore. You can also use really cheap aerosol hairspray if you want to save money or you don't need a UV-safe protective coating. I've used this in the past - Horrible Hairspray-Great cheap Fixative

Those brown colored pencils and sticks are Conte crayon. They're very similar to charcoal but are made from clay usually. (These are awesome for doing gesture drawings or faces!) I work with these more similar to a graphite pencil rather than charcoal. You can also buy brown toned paper/newsprint to use with them.

Also, I want to add, be careful when you sharpen any of these pencils. Go slowly and be soft with them or you can crack the charcoal inside and it'll just fall out. I've found these work better than other pencil sharpeners when it comes to charcoal. You can also simply scrape the pencil end with an Exacto blade - I've never broken a pencil doing it this way.

Fixative info & Tutorial

Very Basic Charcoal Tutorial - this gives a visual of what I was talking about. The guy does everything in a different order than I usually do, but whatever you find works easiest, just go with that.

More Tutorials Several other tutorials to help you get started.

Sorry for the wall of text, but I hope you enjoy the new media! Give your mom a big hug! Charcoal is great!

u/The_Patriarchy · 18 pointsr/MensRights

If you print them on crack n peel, they won't be able to tear them down so easily.

http://www.amazon.com/Sheet-Diagonal-Compulabel-313053-Compare/dp/B003WZA4B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346488693&sr=8-1&keywords=crack+n+peel

You can get it at any office supply shop. It's basically a big sheet of sticker paper. The downside is that it runs when it gets wet. If you're concerned about that, you could probably spray on a coat of clear varnish after you print them.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346488801&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+varnish

The varnish can be found at any arts and crafts store.

___

The downside to all of this is that it costs more (in effort and cash) per flyer.

u/Abstracting_You · 18 pointsr/CasualConversation

That is fantastic.

Similarly, 3 years ago I put this decal on the back of my friend's armoire. Somehow she has not moved apartments yet which is sad because it is becoming harder and harder to go over to her place knowing that this is on the back of the armoire.

One day, one day...

u/ablesisters · 17 pointsr/BeautyGuruChatter

Art major here, fixative is a really good idea!

That fixative you linked is resin based, and the shadow would still be a little workable/moveable under that fixative. An acrylic-based fixative spray would work better as a final sealant as it would create an almost plastic-like protective finish on the page: https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303A-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26 is one example.

No matter what fixative you're using, it's important to do a patch test first because fixatives can darken/alter the color of certain mediums. It's also important to work in light layers in a very well ventilated area!

u/eldredracing · 15 pointsr/Luthier

If you want to "stain", look into keda dyes. They are cheap and you can mix the color to your liking. I've done a couple of burst finishes with them and it was no problem. Here is a telecaster album with the dye process:

https://imgur.com/a/BFkSe

Dye itself:
https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519139347&sr=8-1&keywords=keda+dye

u/Zacmon · 14 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey, just saying, if you take off the backplate and coat the face with this artist's spray then it will protect the signatures. I use this stuff all the time and it shouldn't take much to seal a sharpie mark on plastic. You should be able to keep a generally matte finish, while also letting you use it normally.

I would do this whether you want to showcase it or not, since it's also UV resistant and will keep it from discoloring/fading. Just make sure you mask the grills/vents and coat the kickstand separately. You should only need 1 or 2 very light coats. We're talking 30 minutes tops with an overnight dry.

u/Javbw · 13 pointsr/pics

There is a name for the specific ype of spray just to protect "smudgeable" work - "Fixatif"



Here's one from Krylon.
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01306-Workable-Fixatif-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7U

People use it when they "finish" a section and want to protect it as they move onto another - but are still able to go back and add additions on top if desired. Its basically invisible.

I imagine once your are totally finished, a flat clear laquer would seal everything and prevent it from ever being changed again.

Keep up the great art!

u/jparram · 11 pointsr/pics

Yeah...I started questioning reality after looking through the related items. The walkmonkeys are interesting: asthma

u/PintSizedPinata · 11 pointsr/meirl
u/MustMake · 10 pointsr/ATBGE

Might be for no reason. There's a seller on Amazon that seems to sell big vinyl decals of stock photos. Not sure if there's any real purpose for them.

Here's an older lady with an inhaler

u/CheshireM · 9 pointsr/minipainting

These are really excellent for first minis, there's a ton you did right:

  • Neat and clean areas of color
  • Good shading
  • Edge-highlighting of consistent width
  • Some fun technical effects like blood
  • Actually good eyes (seriously this is super difficult to do well)

    It looks like you used some sort of gloss varnish on them, and if I were to offer one piece of advice, it would be to ditch the gloss and use a matte finish like Testor's Dullcote. You can even spray these guys with a matte varnish to tone down their current glossiness.
u/flarg76 · 8 pointsr/Gunpla

First off, Welcome to /r/Gunpla and the plastic crack hobby


A few simple things that I think can help make a kit pop for cheap are

1.) Panel lining- basically just drawing in those recessed grooves that are all over. It gives depth and brings out details. The ones i use are like this. Brown for reddish colors, grey for light, and black for darker plastic. Usually $2-4 per marker depending on how you buy em

2.) Nub removal- there are tons of resources for how to do this "properly" and everyone finds their own way. The general consensus is first cut about halfway between the runner (the rounded pipe like stuff that all the parts come in) and the gate (where the runner narrows down and connect to the piece you are actually using).
Then using an exacto knife cut that remaining little bit off and buff the rest with high grit sandpaper 500 or higher works well. Its ok to be a little bit sloppy here because...

3.) Top coat- This stuff will coat the model and make all those sand marks go away. It also makes the model look less "plasticy" and more like the "real" thing. There are primarily 3 types: Matte/flat which is not shiny at all like a military vehicle would be, gloss which is very shiny like a sports car, and satin which is somewhere in between. I prefer matte lke this. Just pop the arms and legs off and spray.


From there you can get into the deeper stuff if you are so inclined such as painting, modding and scratch building. There are plenty of great resources here such as the sidebar guide or falldog's guide which is how I learned.

Sorry for the long post but,

Happy Building!

u/Kupkaked · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

A picture of the cabinets, inside and out would help greatly. I painted the cabinets in my house about 2 years ago and they are holding up great. I painted inside and out using the following method.


I used Zinsser's Bullseye 1-2-3 Primer, and Benjamin Moore Advanced Paint. The BM Advanced is a waterborne alkyd paint and dries hard as nails. It is modern paint designed to lay flat, and dry hard. If you take any advice, it's to use BM Advanced. It turns the finished product into a factory like finish. The Paint AND Primer were applied with a basic Wagner HVLP Sprayer. While under $100 this tool transformed my project and made painting the cabs cake. You can dial in flow and air volume with the sprayer. I had never used one before and learned very quickly. To prep, I cleaned with TSP and did a light sanding in areas that will see more wear and tear to give the paint/primer a little more bite. Do removed your doors, hardware and hinges. I replaced my old exposed hinges for Euro soft close Hinges by Blum at the same time.


Otherwise, letting them dry between coats is prob the hardest part since the sprayer really speeds things up. The BM Advanced did not need any sanding or anything between coats, its unbelievable how flat it lays / dries. BM Advanced does have a long open time! I let my finish cure, untouched, for around 1.5-2 weeks, but now load up my cabinets with plates, pots pans, sheet trays with no nicks or peeling paint what so ever. I am blown away at the results. In total, I'd say I did 3 coats of primer, and 3-4 coats of BM Advanced, applied over the duration of a week after work. Also, clean up is ALL water based, just literally run water thru the paint gun, done.

Edit: Photos Yo!

u/Mcashley311 · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Special thanks to u/jack2game for the waterslide decal inspiration and tips.

Decal paper (Clear backing, for inkjet printers)

Krylon Topcoat Spray, Clear (Not currently pictured, as these are still drying. I did a test run though and it REALLY takes down the shiny “sticker” look, as well as smooths out all the edges so you don’t feel it beneath your fingers. It also adds a slightly rougher finish, that feels more similar to PBT than smooth ABS.)

u/trevortypes · 7 pointsr/Sneakers

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d

STEPS

Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


OVERALL TIPS

With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)



PRODUCT LINKS

Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

u/kenshin138 · 7 pointsr/Warhammer
u/c800600 · 6 pointsr/muglife

Nail polish won't hold up in the microwave. It pops/explodes.

I found these two sealants options used for diy painted dishes: Mod Podge Dishwasher Safe and Krylon Crystal Clear. They are both supposed to be dishwasher safe, but I don't think they are microwave safe.

u/MsMargo · 6 pointsr/Tiki
u/hunter006 · 6 pointsr/bikepacking

Amazon, most hardware or automotive stores would have some variant. It goes by a bunch of different names. This is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/

u/Shenaniganz08 · 6 pointsr/Gunpla

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6


And that's it.


  1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.

    2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.


    3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.

    4)Use the Gundam markers for lining

  2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).

    6)Finally finish with a top coat

    Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).

    So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
u/ixplodestuff · 6 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

If hairspray doesn't hold it you should try to find a spray on clear acrylic coat like this. Modge Podge would probably smear all of the lipstick.

u/Sam_Vimes81 · 6 pointsr/sticker

Thank you so much!

I've only been at it for just over a month now, so I'm no expert by any means, but here's what I found works best for me:

this paper
UV spray
For Cutting
[I use this printer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798D6XBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_.neCDbCF0XZKP)

I started out using regular sticker paper with a cold-press laminate(it was the cheapest route), and they looked and felt really nice...at first. they didn't hold up against weather and water for very long. The laminated part was water proof, but it would get wet under the sticker, and eventually break the sticker apart. They were also hard to make without them getting all scratched up before you even cut them.

I like that vinyl paper a lot. There are a lot of options for it, but that is the most cost effective, and so far, it's been really fantastic. The paper is water resistant, so water doesn't get underneath the sticker and break it apart like the other ones. After I print a page, I spray it with that UV spray. It just gives a nice texture that I like, and keeps them from fading in the sun. I ran a sticker through the dishwasher before I sprayed it. The sticker part held on phenominally well, the ink ran tho. I haven't tried it with the coat, but I don't see myself washing many stickers.

After the spray dries (a couple of minutes), a run it through the Cameo 3. I started out with a Cricut. I actually like the Cricut machine better. It's designed to just work. However, the software is garbage. It's web based, and even worse, it automaticaly arranges your artwork on the page to be printed and cut. That sounds nice, but 99% of the time, it wasted more than half the page. I was throwing out so much paper. There are some workarounds I found online, but they were tedious, innacurate, and not worth the effort. I do not reccommend the cricut until they get their software in line. The Cameo takes a little more fiddling with, but it's more custumizable, and I arrange stickers on the page how I want.

My printer is just that low-end Epson. It works great actually. The only thing I would suggest is getting a printer that you can side-load. I feel like the the paper getting bent through the printer isn't good for the paper, and makes the printing inconsistent (also, it probably has to do with being a cheap printer too). I plan on upgrading, but I already bought a bunch of ink, and I want to get through that first.

MOST IMPORTANTLY, have fun!

Sorry about the novel!

u/ewbernauer · 6 pointsr/wisp

Check out Never Wet. I've heard good things!

u/billybookcase · 6 pointsr/Calgary

http://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-WM31555-Stick-Wall-Decals/dp/B00TLXWVRM

Buy this, put this guy up and always have a friend to say hi to.

u/LeoCryptic · 6 pointsr/CowChop
u/grosthebro · 6 pointsr/wtfamazon

Look at the related stuff, the wallmonkey wall decals are hilarious

u/th3st0rmtr00p3r · 6 pointsr/starcitizen

Walls

u/rhinaldino · 5 pointsr/battlestations
u/dbkooopa · 5 pointsr/konmari

I have a very curious cat, and I also have some sentimental, breakable items that I'd like to keep in once piece, but also have out on shelves. I invested in some museum putty, and every single thing in my home that isn't food has survived his antics. https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493008406&sr=8-1&keywords=quakehold

u/iloveneonhairedgirls · 5 pointsr/Mid_Century

Not glue, museum putty.

u/coldpipe · 5 pointsr/AnimeFigures

Some kind of museum putty or blu tack?

u/FlopsMcDoogle · 5 pointsr/funkopop

museum putty helps with this

u/Merman_Pops · 5 pointsr/boardgames

Buy some clear spray on acrylic. It will take a few coats but you’ll add a lot more life to your pieces.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00397STRW/ref=psdc_13399701_t2_B001K65K26

u/CreauxTeeRhobat · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've heard you can use filler primer for smaller cracks, and bondo for larger cracks/seams.

I would, of course, test how the PLA reacts to the primer, first, though. Wouldn't want to ruin a 20 hour print!

u/LethargicRush · 5 pointsr/Gunpla

KRYLON DIVERSIFIED BRANDS K01311007 Krylon 1311 Aerosol Matte Satin Finish Spray Enamel 11 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ENZ8CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VVsFAbK6AA0DK

I used this and it was real easy to use. Lol also cause other brands like mr hobby and other brands cant be obtained easily but this was.

u/The__Duck · 5 pointsr/Warmachine

One layer of this gloss finish: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013LT5UM4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then two layers of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009FF6DN4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502749041&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=testors+dull+coat

After that your paint will never chip and there should be no shine. You could probably use just dull coat but this has been my post painting ritual for a long time now.

u/MrCaptainJorgensen · 5 pointsr/Luthier

K, if this is wrong, someone PLEASE, correct me! I'm here to be a good luthier, not cradle my ego.

I use an automotive paint for my color coats, see if you can find a local place that does custom jobs, my local shop has a binder as thick as a bible with color chips to choose from

For my clear coats, tint coats, sunbursts, etc I like Woodcraft's stringed instrument lacquer, it's basicall just a nitro finish, and I tint it with an ailide dye that I cut with alcohol

My biggest recommendation is get advise from a better luthier than myself. StewMac has a great book that has a lot of classic formulas, anf will give you all of the info you are looking for.

Edit: grammar/formatting is not my friend

u/Myron896 · 5 pointsr/weekendgunnit
u/Black_Gold_ · 5 pointsr/Dashcam

3m VHB 5952 is what you want

Unfortunately everything I find comes on rolls with far more than I know what to do with. On the plus side you shouldn't run out any time soon.

u/h-e-a-t-h-e-r · 4 pointsr/Journaling

The biggest downfall to pencil is it's not permanent, it can so easily be smudged or potentially worn down and you won't be able to read it anymore. However, you could use something like Krylon Spray Fixatif to help preserve it. I mean, there are notebooks and files from decades ago that'd been written in pencil and they're still legible, so if you take care of it, it should be fine.

Don't wait for a particular day or time, start right now!

As for privacy, I'm gonna repeat the advice I gave to someone else. I don't know how old you are, but if you're old enough to make purchases on your own, the company Vaultz makes locking boxes in a bunch of different sizes and they're pretty affordable. You can search on Amazon for "Vaultz lock box." Depending on how many journals you have and the dimensions of the book(s), another option would be a locking bag, the kind companies use for night deposits. Also something you can find on Amazon, I think "locking money bag" should bring up different options. The bag would be easier to hide, you can put it inside your pillow or under your mattress.

u/bringtea · 4 pointsr/muacjdiscussion

I've used this spray in the past to keep makeup in place. I believe I was just drawing on card stock at the time.

u/dokool · 4 pointsr/japanlife

In fact the first search result for museum putty is called Quakehold so there you go.

u/Falkon650 · 4 pointsr/Teachers

I put down white pain about 5 layers to make it look go (go as glossy as possible) Then i used Clear Whiteboard paint that i got from Homedepot
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC.

Used 3 layers of that.

I did it in January and they lasted until the end of the year. USing the fine markers made clean up way easier. Each student had their own cloth and my class at the end of the day wiped them down. You might have to replace em every other year id think. I put down some decals aswell and covered them in the clear paint to (coordinate plane 15x15, multiplication table, numberline). Kids picked at the stickers and ruined another teachers desk who did it too but mine stayed great cause i laid down the rules early on that if they messed em up id mess them up.

u/SovereignGFC · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

For me high speed (Dremel/finishing sander) sanding on PLA only made things worse.

The plastic started to melt into the sandpaper, ruining the sandpaper quickly without accomplishing much.

If the details of the print can survive it, the best way to finish PLA is to hide everything under primer paint.

Hit the PLA with 120 and 220 sandpaper by hand. Light and slow are the operative words here--plus patience. 120 may not be needed or may even be counter-productive on 0.1/0.05mm parts.

Do a second pass with 400 grit. The part should be relatively smooth to the touch.

Then I apply filler primer (smaller details, not going to sand, don't want to smother) or sandable filler primer (flat surfaces, larger details, both details and surfaces can be sanded by hand).

Filler primer of either sort works best in many light coats rather than a few heavy applications.

Sand filler primer with 400 (or 220 if there's somehow too much of it). You can even step up to 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 (I did this to ONE part). Again, light and slow or the sandpaper will quickly pick up paint that is now mashed in, ruining it. Don't bother hitting the PLA with anything above 400 grit--it doesn't work well and eats through sandpaper. You're better off using higher grits on the paint rather than the part.

Finally apply whatever paint or other colors you want on top of the primer.

I highly recommend a competent "shop-vac" to contain dust and lengthen the lifetime of your sandpaper. If you don't sand too "hard" most of the plastic/paint will vacuum right out, greatly extending the lifetime of each piece.

u/fxakira · 4 pointsr/Gunpla
  1. for Primer, I have been using the Tamiya Fine Gray spray can. This works great, as the particles are smaller than hardware store or craft store primers and preserve the details of the pieces. Other hobby primers work well too, such as the Mr. Surfacer line but I personally have not used those. Refer to this primer guide for which color you should choose for priming.
  2. You typically use a gloss black coat if you intend to bring out shiny / glossy layer of the paint on top. If your end game is a flat / matte topcoat, I would say this step is unnecessary. I have NOT observed a significant difference in color between a build with glossy black base and gold top paint layer versus. just a gold top paint layer when I matte coat it at the end.
  3. Your ordering is CORRECT. For the number of layers, my go to procedure:
  • Prime in 2 coats. I do a flash coat (quick spray bidirectional, there will be missing spots). Wait for 15 minutes and come back to do a 2nd coat to completely fill in. Wait a whole day.
  • Spray desired paint layer, 2 coats. Same idea as the primer.
  • Glossy coat to preserve the paint. I handbrush Pledge / Future Finish on and it works, but I am very patience with this step as I can overcoat and this will fill in the panel line. One thin coat is sufficient
  • Decal hell. Every kit, every time.
  • I top coat with Krylon Matte Finish. You can use the hobby stuffs like Testors Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat, but I am a student with a part time job and these damn cans are damn expensive. The Krylon works sufficiently for me, I just have to spray it more carefully than the hobby ones.

    Good luck!
u/fluxual · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0w51Cb1S127KM

I luckily have a local shop that's a bit cheaper than this but this is good stuff.

u/ajree210 · 4 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Testors Dulcote Spray, little blue spray can, can get it on amazon. Haven’t used another matte spray since! https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4

u/thatotherguy321 · 4 pointsr/Dashcam

Search for "3M VHB Black". You can get a roll and cut it to size.

Example https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/

This is more than you'd need, but its general purpose adhesive that will come in handy for other purposes. This is the same adhesive used on gopros mounts.

If you don't wanna spend so much, get this and trim it a bit. https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Pads-Gopro-Helmet-Mount/dp/B00EFTP2YQ/

u/JVickers43 · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

3M VHB tape. This stuff will stick to anything and will go down to sub zero temps. Make sure everything is dry when applying and prep all the surfaces that the VHB tape sticks to with 3M 94 tape primer.

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549918879&sr=8-4&keywords=3M+VHB+tape

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-02oz-Vinyl/dp/B005LDKTV6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549916087&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3M+94+primer&psc=1

​

u/coolchu001 · 3 pointsr/DIY
u/ToxYixs · 3 pointsr/malelivingspace

They sell plastic design panels for your wall pretty inexpensive on amazon - heres a link

seen people use them before and they look good imo, especially with ambient lights or LEDs. Look at pictures in the reviews

u/fkwillrice · 3 pointsr/watercolor101

You did a watercolor on canvas? Interesting choice, how'd that work out for you? Normally I'd say what you're looking for is a [spray fixative] (https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1306-Workable-Fixatif-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7U) (they sell these at art stores), but I have no idea how they work with canvas. I normally ship larger pieces in bubble mailers, and those clear plastic sleeve bag things work wonders, but I have no idea how thick your canvas is.

[This shipping method] (http://reddotblog.com/how-to-ship-paintings-a-step-by-step-guide-for-artists-and-galleries/) is the approach I would take in your shoes, and if it were me personally I would skip the fixative. Good luck!

u/burritosandblunts · 3 pointsr/TMNT

https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA

Stock up! 1 package was good for me for about 100 figures. I'd post my display but my friends could identify me from it and I'm a horrible nasty person on reddit.

u/Brunevde · 3 pointsr/tea

https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA Makes a huge difference... not sure if it would hurt the tea things though

u/_PM_ME_YOUR_HOPES_ · 3 pointsr/malelivingspace

Fellow southern Californian. This product might be useful:

Quakehold! 88111 Museum Putty Neutral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NqvVAb0CS82N0

u/ignitethis2112 · 3 pointsr/glassheads

Mobocrat707, meet Quakehold. Quakehold, meet Mobocrat 707

u/ctscott6 · 3 pointsr/DIY
u/coopers98 · 3 pointsr/MTB
u/TemptedTemplar · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Plan out your color and drawing first of all. If its something super simple like white, black, red, blue, or yellow, there could just be a primer spray in that color.

So you would just wash the shells with warm water, soap, and one of those yellow/green sponges. as the green scour pad is almost rough enough to remove the top layer of material. Which is about as rough as you want it.

Once theyre clean and dry, hit it with the primer. one good coat from about 12 to 16 inches away should be fine. If you want it really thin, then two single passes (ensuring to cover all of the outside) should suffice.

If the primer is the color you want, then skip this. but if you want a different color, i would suggest Krylon matte spray paints. REALLY THIN COATS, letting it dry in between each one. Until your desired level of color is achieved.

If at any point they begin to "feel" different, you can hit them with a super fine sand paper until they feel nice again.

once your color is down, do your drawing or painting.

Then use a Crystal clear acrylic finish. Similar fashion as to how you applied your primer and paints.

If it goes on too thick, then hit it with a second coat. Let that dry, then hit it with the sand paper.

Clean that off and you can polish it with water and a super fine grit sandpaper.

u/Thecolby413 · 3 pointsr/trees

Not an expert on painting but they make a spray on clear coat that seals, and also adds a shine to whatever you spray it over!

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

u/wargear_workshop · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For me, I have found this one works the best:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I print PLA. I haven't tested this with ABS, but it probably works just as well.

u/BrickInHead · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I had the exact same problem when I started painting - I use basic Walmart acrylics, used the testors brush on, and it peeled off a ton of paint. After looking around I saw a bunch of suggestions for Testors Spray Dull Coat, tried it out, and works wonders. Haven't had a problem with peeling paint since. I know a lot of people recommend using gloss coat first for strength and then brushing on matte. That's next on my list to try.

u/Komm · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Yep! Also, for the record, Future floor polish is an amaaaaaaaaazing clear coat paint if you have an airbrush.

u/SifuSeafood · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Materials you need

Duck Brand Silver Mirror tape

Matte finish spray paint. I had left over Dullcote. I would suggest lacquer based spray paint as it has high durability and enamel being next best option.

Not really required. Adhesion promoter from automotive retailer (Autozone/ O'reilly's, NAPA, etc)
****
I'd suggest applying adhesion promoter primer + lacquer/enamel based clear coat for the best results. I kind of regret skipping the primer as my top coat has already been scraped.

I sprayed the
entire* case. I didn't like the gloss finish.

Spray multiple light coats and be patient. Don't let anything pool and/or run.


As for the tape, just cut to size and stick it on the bottom. I covered like 90%. You can probably be meticulous and cover more than I did. Now that I write this, maybe sticking some on the bottom of the PCB will help as well. Just make sure not to cover the RGB lights, of course.

u/r0wo1 · 3 pointsr/boardgames

After you finish the mini (for example after using a wash, which I highly recommend) matting your miniature will seal in the paint and give it really strong protection from chipping.

I use two light layers of Krylon Matte Finish followed by one light coat of Testors Dullcote both of which you can find at Michaels (and probably Hobby Lobby). It feels slightly like overkill, but you would have a hard time chipping the paint after both.

u/patrick_dev · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

Second-ing everything that has been said so far. Primer first, paint it, matte varnish to protect. Personally have been using Testor's Dullcote for years with great success.

If you didn't prime first, I would suggest taking the paint off (stripping) and repainting. If you put the varnish on top with no primer underneath, your paint will still chip off in chunks (got greedy, tried it, didn't end well).

u/corejh · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I agree they're definitely too glossy. I've been using Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Matte Sealer, but it doesn't seem to go on matte at all. Maybe I need a few more passes? I also ordered a can of Testor's Spray Lacquer because that's what I saw Sorastro using in some of his guides. Any other recommendations for products that would give me a better matte finish?

Funny you pointed out the black and red, those were the only colors I used straight from the bottle and didn't mix with anything. I'll definitely try to thin them out next time.

Thanks for the critique!

u/89SuperJ · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

Np, https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Spray-Lacquer-Paint/dp/B009FF6DN4

Edit: make sure you get the right finish i.e. Gloss/Flat

u/Cyntax3rr0r · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This video uses Army Painter's Quickshade, which also gives the muddy look you're after. While different from a wash, the method is the same if you're treating the entire mini with nuln oil. Keep the shadow areas dark and whisk away shade on the highlighted areas. Or simply darken the areas selectively with the wash.

I'd recommend Testor's Dullcote for a good spray matte varnish. You can find it at most big box and craft stores also.

u/blackzx1200 · 3 pointsr/Luthier
I did a telecaster with aniline dyes from Keda.  Just mix with water or alcohol.<br />


Telecaster

Dye

u/B0bTerwilliger · 3 pointsr/Luthier

Thank you. I bought these Leda dyes Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Colour Kit - Wood Stain Powder by Keda Dye https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_u56KDbRYJDB31

u/CrimsonKeel · 3 pointsr/turning

this is the dye i ordered. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1
the directions were kinda crappy and confusing. so i ended up using the alcohol based part of the directions and it worked fine. Then i did a spray poly on it and buffed it to a shine.

u/Coastreddit · 3 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/ArgonGryphon · 3 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/SchrodingersShrink · 3 pointsr/wtfamazon

Should match nicely with the random old Asian man...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TLXWVRM

u/butteryhugs · 3 pointsr/SuperMega

Pretty sure it's one of those weird stock photo posters you can get from Amazon. They pop up in /r/amazonwtf pretty often.

EDIT: like this one

u/jesuspants · 3 pointsr/funny

I bought the Asthma Inhaler flavor

u/ForDaLULLZ · 3 pointsr/CowChop
u/mats852 · 3 pointsr/montreal

Moi je veux ça et ma blonde veut pas 🙄 juste 4'x4'
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0150BAJYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_izsQDb579XK6Y

u/Scorched_pizza · 3 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/frumundacheeze · 3 pointsr/TinyWhoop
u/twistedweasel · 2 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

You can use a clear acrylic spray. I have used such things on top of paint and on bare wood before. They work pretty well. Something like this (although I haven't used this particular one)

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303007-Acrylic-Crystal-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7K/ref=sr_1_2?crid=30K139CPKTBES&amp;keywords=clear+acrylic+spray&amp;qid=1556910026&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=clear+acrylic%2Caps%2C399&amp;sr=8-2

u/--xxyyzz-- · 2 pointsr/SCREENPRINTING

You could probably spray it with fixative.
It'll keep it from yellowing and smudging.
If you don't want the glossy coat, you can just Amazon search fixative.

u/Bananaboy773 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I use this to set my decals

u/Cosmic_Ostrich · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Huge improvement! Did you give the whole thing several coats of clear lacquer finish? If not, you should. Make sure you take the panel back off first, of course.

u/kellykart · 2 pointsr/ArtistLounge

Workable fixatif if you want to work into it anymore
Krylon K01306 Workable Fixatif Spray Clear, 11-Ounce Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00023JE7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZGn5ybBP9HY9V

Liquitex spray varnishes for final

http://www.dickblick.com/products/liquitex-spray-varnish/?clickTracking=true&amp;amp;wmcp=pla&amp;amp;wmcid=items&amp;amp;wmckw=01436-1010&amp;amp;gclid=CJfqvqOfjdMCFdgGgQodtDUNdA

I use these almost daily. MFA, teacher, multi media artist.

Oh. I was also walking down my hall and remembered I had a UV archival gloss spray by krylon.

Edited to add spray

u/Magnetar12358 · 2 pointsr/alitabattleangel

The charcoal contrast looks great. I found this video which is very relevant to your drawing. It's a mixed graphite/charcoal drawing of the beautiful Audrey Hepburn. She has jet black hair like Alita in the reference photo.

Yes, use graphite first and then charcoal last. You can prevent smudging by using a piece of paper to rest your drawing hand. When you're finished with your art, you can spray it with a fixative like this which has a matte finish.

Here's a secret weapon to use for values: a value chart. Our eyes deceive us. When dark values are next to semi-dark values, the semi-dark value can appear much lighter than it is. Print out the chart and place it on the reference picture and all areas where the value changes on Alita's face. You'll get a sense of how dark or light the values are in the reference. Then use that value chart on different areas of your drawing and you'll know where you need to darken or lighten.

Here's another secret weapon: the proportional divider. You don't need to use grid lines. Actually you can use none or only a few lines. Some people claim it's cheating, but that's nonsense. You still have to draw the picture and it will improve your sense of proportion. Here's the dirty secret: many portrait artists will use it to check their drawing. They will draw it freehand, but will check the proportions with the divider or compass or pencil. Here's the quick video and here's the longer video by an art teacher.

I don't see many comments on actual technique, but I believe sharing ideas is very important.

u/G0ATLY · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

conviviality

Working Fixitive

I really would like this because I am super paranoid about smearing artwork. I've been using hairspray, but it can warp and discolor over time. Would love to 'set' my work from session to session.

u/FuckMeUpButtercup · 2 pointsr/bulletjournal

I haven't used it for makeup, but I've been using this stuff for a few years for art-related projects. One quick coat works like a charm and keeps most of my projects from smearing and transferring. On things that have a lot of pigment, I sometimes use a second coat just to be sure.

Krylon K01306 Workable Fixatif Spray Clear, 11-Ounce Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00023JE7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Aj.AbWR9QH7B

I've also used AquaNet hairspray in the past and gotten similar results.

If I were to use tape, I'd think just a clear packing tape of sorts could work? Hmm. Now I'm curious. Haha. Regardless, good luck with it all!

u/corpsesprinkles · 2 pointsr/TheScriveners

If you wanted to stick with pencil/not have to go over that in pen, you can always try [this.] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00023JE7U/ref=pd_aw_sbs_201_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;dpID=41xJ1LuWmgL&amp;amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;amp;preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&amp;amp;refRID=08WE7KV5614XDKSG03XR) It's basically sealant to help prevent smudging.

Just thought I'd throw that out there. :)

u/anathemas · 2 pointsr/Coloring

Hope you find something you like. :)

I just realized I forgot a couple of things, and Amazon is working again, yay!

Krylon setting spray - it's the only setting spray I've ever used, but it sets well, as long as you don't try to change it - quite easy to edit imo (you can look at my recent post, Greyscale portrait, to see that it didn't stop me from editing at all -- and that picture was months old.

Also, I got this lapdesk when I had surgery but still been pretty useful when I want to go outside or color in bed.

My top recs would BV electric eraser and the blending pencils, but I've included everything I consider worth having. :)

u/theicewalker · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I'd actually recommend Museum Putty. It doesn't leave a residue like standard blue sticky tack and it'll provide just enough hold to keep components from blowing away. Additionally, it won't obstruct the front of the components.

We use it to prevent cat-lateral damage, but if you kept a slab of this at the table within easy reach I think it would serve you well.

u/stevezilla33 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you don't want to use adhesives, museum putty works too. https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA

u/Static_Stranger · 2 pointsr/funkopop
u/m4tic · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous
u/Xyes · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

This stuff is really nifty for keeping stuff from falling.

Quakehold! 88111 Museum Putty Neutral

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bWTPAbWX379DW

u/Wurm42 · 2 pointsr/ikeahacks

One option is furniture securing straps. If you live somewhere prone to earthquakes, you've probably seen them before.

The same people also make special putty for securing stuff to shelves. That was very helpful for childproofing at my house.

u/The_Window · 2 pointsr/funkopop

All three are pretty sturdy actually and don't require any careful positioning. Try different surfaces as well. And if all else fails, use display putty.

u/JumboChimp · 2 pointsr/Cameras

Museum putty is made for this exact application.

u/DirtyYogurt · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would suggest using some of that whiteboard paint or chalkboard paint for the top. Minimizes the number of pieces that can be lost by the drunks.

u/raubry · 2 pointsr/gadgets
u/jeffwhat · 2 pointsr/Wellworn

you can use helicopter tape/racers tape to prevent that.

u/ppardee · 2 pointsr/cycling

You can get clear 'helicopter' tape from Amazon for a reasonable price to replace that, and maybe add some to the underside of your downtube, too, if it doesn't already have it.
As an example (I've never used this - I'm not specifically recommending this brand):
https://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racers-Tape-HT2128-Transparent/dp/B000TPC7HU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

u/lk05321 · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

FYI helicopter tape is pretty useful for covering up areas where paint can chip from rocks, debris, and chain-slap. It’s the same stuff used to protect phone screens from wear and tear, and apparently helicopter blades. This roll is way cheaper than the made-for stuff.

u/dwcanker · 2 pointsr/MTB

Just finished taping up my new bike about 2 hours ago.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1
Used that stuff. Never really bothered before other than the chain stay to protect it from chain slap but new bike is carbon and pricey. It went on easy using the soapy water method. Only real issue I have is it is glossy and the frame is matte so it is fairly obvious. I also used some 3m 2228 mastic tape in areas it would be a pita to use the other stuff and more likely to take heavy hits.

u/kangsterizer · 2 pointsr/bikepacking

Or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU if you don't like black ;-)

I'd also recommend taping the entire bike with it anyway because paint chips even more quickly when you bikepack haha. (Or at least, the down tube and the chainstays in addition to where the bags touch the frame)

u/BlueSapphyre · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I've never tried it, but maybe you can use Clear Matte paint. I've used it for paper, so it'll probably work with card stock.

I've had my copy for like 5 years, and it doesn't show much wear..

u/Deoxysprime · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I'm based out of the US so I don't know what brands are available to you. I've used two brands:

Krylon: I bought a big can like this from a local hardware store for about 3 USD. It does an okay job. It's a sort of flat finish but there's still a touch of shine to it. For bulk spraying it seems like a good deal but it's not the most beautiful finish. I assume most of the clear flat/matte sprays will be roughly this quality. One of these has lasted me through like 4 or 5 HG kits so far.

Testors: I bought some of this from a local hobby shop for about 5 USD per can. It's a lot less spray for a bit more money but the finish on this was great. One of these seems to do one or two HG kits.

u/CivilC · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you're painting a model kit, try your best to acquire paints and topcoats specifically for plastic/plastic models. If you're in the US, Testors, Tamiya, and even Krylon can work as good flat coats and each brand has a respective gloss and semigloss spray.

u/JYB1337 · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Its all about putting on a coat or 2 of clear acrylic spray paint after painting (like this kind). Another good thing to do is to sand it down with 400 grit or higher sandpaper before painting if you're painting the entire body.

u/honoh · 2 pointsr/howto

try using a glossy artist fixative, coat the entire glass so it won't chip away, and use two layers of coat minimum. I've used a matte finish before and that lasted three months, if you aren't using the glass then it should last forever.

Hopefully this will work just fine

Artist fixatives help avoid fading from sunlight, and since I see that's a valid concern in this thread I'd be excited to suggest this product. Us drawing types use this to protect pretty much any type of work and it's held up on my own pictures. The glass I mentioned lated for three months, but I think the fault was that I used a workable matte finish rather than and acrylic glossy. It should coat your glass in a thin film that will protect the signature just fine, if you put it in a display case or a trophy stand it ought to last forever! Hope I helped!

u/pervian · 2 pointsr/ak47

Why not just spray coat the parts with some type of clear coating to keep the look of everything? Would something like this work to keep the 'look' including the sticker in place as well as the shellac chips as they are? I'm not too knowledgeable on the paint finishing side of life.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

u/Veridor · 2 pointsr/chemistry

Thanks for the input. Is Crystal Clear some sort of varnish/paint/lacquer? Something like this: Krylon Crystal Clear spray, amazon.com

u/TheBobMcCormick · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Rather than struggle with print settings, it might make more sense to spray it with a waterproof, clear sealer like this one.

u/Beanzomatic · 2 pointsr/drawing

I've used this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

or just look up acrylic clear coat

u/mister____mime · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

If the damage is done by UV radiation, couldn't you just coat the cases with something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1305-Coatings-11-Ounce-UV-Resistant/dp/B00397STRW

u/Dim5678 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

There are many ways to do this. If you print with ABS, acetone vapor smoothing is a pretty good option. You can also try a clear coat paint, or simply sand the object with sandpaper. There are also more novel coatings such as xtc-3d, but those tend to be pretty expensive. The method you proposed with gorilla glue might work, though you might want to thin it down with a solvent such as denatured alcohol to make it easier to apply and not have visible brush marks.

u/JoseJimeniz · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/kscannon · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I usually dont have much to fill, just need to hide layer lines if I choose too. I use a filler primer, usually rust-oleum

Edit: thats not the exact one, just first result on amazon

u/dabarisaxman · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That's super cool. With your blessing, I might do something similar for a friend's upcoming wedding.

In case you haven't seen it, filler primer is amazing for priming 3d prints for paint. Give it a few coats, hit it with sand paper/files, and you get an amazing, smooth surface, but that doesn't obscure details.

u/6atman315 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is what I usually use. Pretty much whatever the hardware store has, though.

u/_Choose__A_Username_ · 2 pointsr/finishing

I have a Wagner that’s very similar to the one you’re looking at and actually really like it a lot. I’m just a weekend warrior, so it works very well for me. If you plan on using this thing daily, then you can’t go cheap. Get a better sprayer. But for quick, smooth, and easy painting at a good price, you can’t beat these sprayers.

As far as clean up, I use hot water immediately after I’m done and have never had issues. You’ll need to take it apart and use a toothbrush too. You may need to clean it with diluted paint thinner every now and then, so keep some handy. And learn how to thin paints. It makes a world of a difference once you start using the correct viscosity for the paint/stain/finish you’re using.

u/bemonopo · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I painted a similar bear and had trouble with glossy fur. To get around it, I sprayed a few coats of Krylon Matte Finish.

u/sharkeyx · 2 pointsr/Tyranids

Testor's dull coat, after you're done painting and before you put any flock/grass/ w/e down (as it will weight it down and can look bad), just spray them like you would with priming them (short bursts from a distance). Let that set overnight and make sure to do this outside and/or in a well ventilated area as it has a strong odor that will linger. If you have to do it outside, leave them outside for at least half an hour and you'll be good to bring them in with minimal odor to finish curing.

&amp;#x200B;

After that you can put down any grass/flock on the base.

&amp;#x200B;

One caveat, if you have a lot of metallics on your guys this will be dulling them (this is matte after all), so gotta weigh durability with shinyness for if you want to varnish them. I usually still do for miniature games like this, as things bump a lot over time and are handled a bunch. The metallics are still metallics and show, just not as nicely as they did before varnish.

u/_hei · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

It does. This is the one I use, although I'm not sure if there are others.

It offers some level of protection, and I've only had one mishap (too humid). 9/10 would recommend. IMO the only problem is that the cans are too small.

u/MohnJaddenPowers · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you want markers for panel lining, I posted in another thread - these are all you'll probably ever need: http://www.amazon.com/Triplus-Fineliner-Pens-Metal-Assorted/dp/B0007OEE7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1416514362&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=staedtler+triplus+fineliner

They clean up wonderfully. A Q-tip dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol will swipe off any pigment that shouldn't be somewhere.

I've used nothing but Alclad flat and matte topcoat, but if you don't have an airbrush, Testor's Dullcote is an industry standard: http://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Enamel-3oz-Dullcote-Lacquer/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1416514426&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=testors+dullcote

u/Beadpool · 2 pointsr/MarvelLegends
  1. It’s going to be hard to match skin tones. You’ll just have to experiment. Maybe watch some videos on glazing and wet blending. Just a couple techniques that might help get two close colors to transition a bit more seamlessly.

  2. Number of layers depends on how thin the paints are and which colors you’re painting over. When starting, it’s always best to take it slow. If the paint looks good enough to cover in one layer, it’s most likely not thinned enough. Don’t rush it. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying an additional coat.

  3. https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4
    Depends if you want a glossier or dull finish, but something like this should be fine. Read reviews &amp; directions. Shake well. Ventilate. Start spraying away from figure, then sweep over figure. Light coats and let dry THOROUGHLY before thinking about another layer. Mess this part up and it’s hard to go back.

    Hope this helps!
u/CommonSensai · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Those are great tips! I sprayed holding it slightly far away as I didn't want to drown out the detail. I don't think I started the spray off to the side though.

Regarding salvage, would the tackiness go away after I apply a coat of lacquer? I bought this, https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Spray-Lacquer-Paint/dp/B009FF6DN4/

Some other folks here are saying just paint over them. I have no hesitation about doing so but I really don't want them to be tacky forever.

u/dex206 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

After I paint any mini, I varnish it with gloss varnish, and then, most importantly spray the entire thing with Testor's Dulcote. It makes everything beautifully matte.

https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4

u/LazarusCam · 2 pointsr/DungeonsAndDragons
u/kingvortigern · 2 pointsr/minipainting

A few questions, followed by some suggestions:

Do you use your Citadel paint right out of the bottle? You might lose some of that gloss if you dilute your paint, which is something nearly all good painters recommend. I used the Citadel paints right out of the bottle for years, without knowing that. Thin the paint to the consistency of milk, more or less.

Yes, you should use a sealer, absolutely. Yes it does protect the final finish, but judicious use of it can help in other ways. But a matte sealer is critical. You can spray the entire finished piece with matte sealer, but that can ruin some of your metallic finishes. What I sometimes do is finish the piece, spray the entire thing with one or two LIGHT coats (always) of matte sealer. Then if you have any pieces of armor, or glass, or anything that should be shiny, you can then apply gloss or satin sealer with a brush to those areas to those areas only to bring the shine back. But truly, the matte brush on sealer, (or matte paints) really adds to the "realism" of the piece.

Also get some "flow-aid" and add a drop to your shades and washes. It helps break up the surface tension and helps the paint move around into the crevices. Try

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009H0HWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

For an excellent spray matte sealer try this one. Been around for years and still one of the best flat finishes out there:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Finally, go to CMON and download this painting guide if you've got an extra 10 bucks laying around. Very good guide, even for the pro.

https://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/ultimate-painting-guide-link.html

And don't forget to visit https://brokenpaintbrush.com/. Sign up for his newsletter, he sends out free tutorials every week. Also check out his Youtube channel.

Keep it up, nice work!

u/homemade_haircuts · 2 pointsr/NewSkaters

There are hydrophobic sprays, which might make a deck last a little longer. It will be immediately destroyed on the nose/tail when you pop off the ground, but it might slow down waterlogging.

My guess is that it wouldn't do much, but it might be worth a shot if you're desperate.

u/leadchipmunk · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

$29 for 4 ounces. Rustoleum Neverwet is only $15 for 18 ounces and does the same thing.

u/nhgaudreau · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/Rockran · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

If you read the packaging, on the upper left it says "FROSTED CLEAR".

If you read the description of the product on their website, it states "Sprays clear and dries to a flat light haze"

The frosted hazing is normal.

u/felunk · 2 pointsr/Model3

Yeah nothing out there on that...thought about doing a video but too lazy X).....I used painters tape on bottom of the headlights and over the blinkers. and just sprayed the whole front fascia(using a large piece of cardboard to protect any stray spray from getting on the rest of the car)....it does kinda puddle up and drip if you put too much in any one area. Worked perfectly everywhere so i'd say you just need a nice thin coat...again not sure how long it'll last, it does seem to wipe off fairly easily as it's not permanent. Also due to all the snow on the road I couldn't use auto drive much so not a big deal...I bought this, and just used the top coat per recommendations: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-274232-Repelling-treatment-top-coat/dp/B00DNQBFAW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=neverwet&amp;amp;qid=1574971342&amp;amp;sr=8-4.....did a section of concrete stairs with the base and top coat that worked really well to prevent icing so i'll probably buy some more for that.

u/sprucenoose · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/Jimbomcdeans · 2 pointsr/gifs
u/AbuAmmarHalab · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/alphazero924 · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

&gt; ham rolls

Those ain't ham rolls, son.

u/mobile_monster_ · 2 pointsr/thisismylifenow
u/capslion · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I grabbed a bunch of things off my various wishlists that were added for being neat and/or kinda weird. Some are silly things to just look at, and others are things I might actually get one day.

Coolest decoration: Senior Woman with Asthma Inhaler Peel and Stick Wall Decal

Coolest Clothing: Surrender Sweater

Coolest Skincare Item: Milky Piggy Bubble Mask or Twoosong Proplis Sparkeling Ampoule

Coolest Board Game: Betrayal at House on the Hill (it's $30.30, sue me)

Coolest Pet Toy: Cat DJ Deck

Coolest Book: The Morbid Anatomy Anthology

Coolest Shoes: Floral Pumps ($30 after shipping oops)

Coolest Food: Gjetost Goat Cheese

u/viikatemies · 2 pointsr/meirl

My favorite is a sticker now

u/siegewolf · 2 pointsr/MLPLounge

Welcome to the story of my life. I'm sure the government is incredibly concerned since I also looked up a Guy Fieri hat and an Old Woman Inhaler Decal.

u/TheChilisGuy · 2 pointsr/PostGradProblem

This wall poster

A wonderful way to clean your cat RIP Lue

NSFW begins here

Anything by this man His books include

  • Pounded in the Butt by My Own Butt
  • Gay T-Rex Law Firm Executive Boner
  • I'm Gay for my Living Billionaire Jet Plane
  • Leonardo Decaprico Finally Wins His Award And It Pounds Him In The Butt
  • And many many more

    Whatever this book is about the microsoft word paperclip
u/GankUnLo · 2 pointsr/mazda3

Look for 3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CgH3CbR1PN0F6

Its exactly what you want.

u/solitudechirs · 2 pointsr/supermoto

This is the same tape but you get twice as much material for $2 more

u/christopherness · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Love the tiles on the ceiling are they these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZ67LK/

u/Arctic-Zero · 1 pointr/battlestations

Alright ty any cool any stuff you know of that I should pick up/rgb and also I’m getting this to put behind the monitor Art3d Textures 3D Wall Panels White Diamond Design Pack of 12 Tiles 32 Sq Ft (PVC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZ67LK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_M4UIBbJRWNTA1

u/trythall86 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Mmmmmm.... Saucy!

Art3d Textures 3D Wall Panels White Diamond Design Pack of 12 Tiles 32 Sq Ft (PVC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZ67LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ltk4DbMHYPVC8

u/MossyMadchen · 1 pointr/battlestations

OP shared this link

u/sunal135 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I used this on my wing SD and it destroyed my acrylic paint. If you spray it on bare plastic I would spray it slowly and it two or three layers.
Too much lacquer paint on PLC plastic can cause warping if your not careful as well.

I use lacquer top coats only after the gloss coat(gloss coat makes panel lining and decal/stickers easily)

I and a lot of others on here use Krylon, https://smile.amazon.com/Krylon-1303-Acrylic-Crystal-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484763744&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=krylon+clear+coat
It much cheaper and more widely available in brick and mortar.

u/Luke_Matthews · 1 pointr/boardgames

I've started using spray-on acrylic coating like this on my boxes. It's easier to apply and creates a more even finish than Mod Podge. :)

u/macktastic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Krylon 1311 Matte Finish has been mentioned here before as being a good budget topcoat. I picked up a can at Wal-Mart for $4 but haven't tried it yet.

They also have the [1303 Gloss Finish] (http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1303-Acrylic-Crystal-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7K), I assume it's also as good, maybe? I haven't used either so I could be way wrong.

u/ASnugglyBear · 1 pointr/boardgames

TY for the work and documentation. Not the form factor I was planning on, but might be one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1303-Acrylic-Crystal-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7K/ was great to find as your coating, as it's one I own but have, but have never used.

Do you have a link to the linen paper?

u/dume215 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Would this be an ok gloss coat?
Krylon K01303007 Acrylic Spray Paint Crystal Clear in 11-Ounce Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00023JE7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LQLdzbNE36NXP

u/felcress · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Which one of these sprays should I get to coat it?

1. 2, or 3?

u/pipkin227 · 1 pointr/amiibo

I would bet you used latex paint. That can interact with the amiibo paint and make it permanently tacky from what I have read.

Use acrylic and something like this to seal it. You could potentially use that spray to get rid of the tacky feeling that's there now. I chose this in Matte rather than gloss.

Best case scenario, use very thin layers, but like three of them. Like dab your paint brush in water first, then layer the paint on.

u/Kalzic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Okay so would this top coat work? or maybe this one An extra question. Would I place stickers before gloss coat or after gloss and before matte?

u/screwikea · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'd have them sign with it sitting on a table or something - a lot of those things will run/drip if you're pressing too hard. Obviously you'll want to test a few different markers or whatever.

Fixer is all I've ever heard it called - some brief research tells me what you're looking for is artist's fixative. Stuff like this, but there's a whole category of them. Different fixers for different mediums (chalk, paint, etc). The main idea being to keep stuff from smearing, but if you plan on putting it up on a public wall or something in the future, you'd cover that later with a topcoat so grubby finger oils won't cause problems.

u/ApplyOK · 1 pointr/Art

I use a heavy two coats of Krylon workable fixatif
AMAZON: https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1306-Workable-Fixatif-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7U

u/masgrimes · 1 pointr/Calligraphy

haha. Yea, I thought it was a cool element, anyway. :)

Yes, I did! I sprayed it in two coats with Krylon Workable Fixatif. from about 12 inches back.

edit: added link.

u/daisyfairy42 · 1 pointr/cosplay

It's not really a wax, it's more of a spray. And yeah, gonna be the same style for a while. Was thinking about just trying it out to see what it does on a small section.

This is what it actually is by the way, not at all meant for hair but it's a synthetic wig anyway.

u/Scoutdad · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Check out Museum Putty. It is what museums use to hold down artwork and secure it from small earthquakes. Easily removed.

https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485061346&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=museum+putty

Also cats generally hate sticky stuff. It may not be the most attractive option but apply some double sided tape to the surfaces of the dock. They will soon learn to leave it alone. Expecting parents with cats put double sided tape on cardboard and leave it in the crib and other surfaces they don't want cats to jump on.

u/gaybachelor · 1 pointr/sanfrancisco

In addition to your aquarium, anything extremely fragile and valuable (display china plates, heirloom vases, that sorta stuff) that would fall over in a bigger quake, you may want to use Museum / Earthquake putty. http://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1314809160&amp;amp;sr=8-1
Earthquake insurance is very expensive and not really worth it, especially if you are living in an apartment and have renters insurance (i.e. don't need to worry about rebuilding a home in a worst case scenario). The building codes and the 1989 Loma Prieta quake basically make it so that unless you are living on fill there is nothing to worry about your home falling down. If you're very unlucky your foundation may crack (thus the reason for earthquake insurance), but most likely even in a big quake any building you are in will at worst have cracks in the walls.
So that being said taking small, simple precautions is worth it, but no one thinks or worries about earthquakes on a daily (or even yearly) basis.

u/AC_CHI · 1 pointr/diypedals

+1 for board-mounted pots, or board-mounted-something-that-also-attaches-to-the-enclosure.

But for stripboard builds I've been using a few little balls of this putty stuff on the back of the board, it works both to insulate and keep the board in place.

u/frybbender · 1 pointr/funkopop
u/justanothertut · 1 pointr/LifeProTips
  1. Keep the spares that come with the earbuds. Even if you don't use them, you can give them to someone who needs a pair and be a GGG.

  2. Use [http://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA](Quake Putty). Place a VERY small bead on the inner groove where the pad holds onto the plastic, and it should hold for a while. Change yearly.
u/kickstand · 1 pointr/iphone

My wife swears by Quake Hold putty.

u/Fugard · 1 pointr/funkopop

Museum putty. That shit is magic.
edit: link

u/SeedyOne · 1 pointr/ArtisanMacro

It's actually this stuff called "Quake Hold", which is reusable/stickable putty to hold stuff down during earthquakes and such. It's easy to ball up and manipulate to any size and it wont leave residue on the caps. Does a great job holding knick-knacks on shelves too =)

u/tigger2577 · 1 pointr/funkopop
u/cthulius · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Something like this should be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VA9NA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

You can also use the cheaper blue sticky tacky for posters, I guess, but I haven't tried that.

u/aristotleschild · 1 pointr/DIY

Same stuff, but thanks for the suggestion. I'm actually using it, and just erasing the ghosting w/ a Mr. Clean magic eraser every once in awhile.

Meanwhile I ordered this dry erase paint, which I'm going to apply in coats with the proper sanding and primer. Will report back here in a week or so--hopefully this works!

u/purefire · 1 pointr/DnD
u/Ireallyhatesquirrels · 1 pointr/crafts

Alternatively, if you can make a speech bubble out of another material more easily, you could then paint it with whiteboard paint. Just a thought.

u/GeneralRose · 1 pointr/DIY

Rust-Oleum 241140 Dry Erase Brush-On Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PGBCOC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8PRPub0PB2RT0

u/ianufyrebird · 1 pointr/DIY

Instead of that $130 kind, I used this $20 alternative which works fantastically. I made a table for D&amp;D, and the entire tabletop is painted with this stuff. Used permanent marker to make a 1" grid via vertex dots, and the dots only sometimes come off when I use a magic eraser, which gets EVERYTHING else up.

u/winkers · 1 pointr/MTB

While this can't fix the existing scratches, if you are serious about protecting your frame then consider applying some helicopter/racer tape to the most vulnerable areas.

It's basically a thick version of protective films they use on electronic screens. UV stable and can take a beating. Bonus is that it peels off without hassle or marks. A lot of the guys in my area use it to protect their carbon frames. Just clean the application area well with alcohol before putting the tape on.

http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU

u/firstroadbike · 1 pointr/bicycling

I just got a new bike and felt the same way for a while. After some research I found this: ISC Racers Tape/Helicopter Tape. A number of people online seem to like it.

After getting used to the fact that I will probably bang up my bike a good bit more and I might as well get over it, I decided to buy a little anyway. I'm going to put it on a few spots I worry about i.e. to prevent chainslap and where the bike touches my bike rack. Might as well make a small effort to help the resale value if I ever want to sell it.

u/whatremix · 1 pointr/cycling

It's a little pricey, but I've heard good things about helicopter tape:
LINK

u/m85476585 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I'm using this tape to cover the back for now, and it is a lot grippier than the bare aluminum, the back glass, or even my plastic screen protector. If they use a similar material it should have some grip. "Self-Healing, flexible, tough, military-grade thermoplastic urethane, designed to absorb impact" sounds grippy. Good point about peeling. Maybe clear adhesive film for the back plus a bumper case would be a good combo.

I have Thule Atmos X3 case on my old phone, and it's awesome. It's thin and unobtrusive (adds maybe 2-3mm thickness), but it protected that phone every time I dropped it. It's made of high quality co-molded materials with a subtle design and variety of textures. Too bad they seem to have given up on Android phones.

u/philtech · 1 pointr/bicycling

I use ISC Racers Tape.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000TPC7HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_595SCbRDHK3ZP

Not just water, but slightly soapy water. It breaks the surface tension on the water allowing it to completely cover the adhesive so you can easily position it on the frame. Lots of soapy water. You can't use too much. Be careful not to get water on the backing paper before peeling off the tape. It has a tendency to pull apart and stick to the tape if you get it wet. If your hands are wet with soapy water you can handle the adhesive side without leaving fingerprints. I use a dish towel to squeegee and dry around the edges. It won't start to stick well until it squeegees out and dries. If it slips when your squeegeeing splash more soapy water on it and have another go at it.

I just wrapped a new steel hardtail in 1", 2", and 4" tape because it's gonna take a thrashing.

u/spleeble · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

This is the exact thing I got.

Kind of pricey but it seems like the roll will last for every bike I ever own.

u/heeroyuwee · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I used to use this a lot for Matte finishes. I could usually find it at my local hardware store for $5-6

u/skopedope · 1 pointr/nova

Wisix above is in the right direction. Additionally, get some painter's tape to cover parts you don't want painted (like eyelenses). After you put two coats of gloss black paint over the helmet, apply two coats of clear coat gloss for that Vader shine!

u/signint · 1 pointr/Gunpla

First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:

u/Effion · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Sorry, I wandered off. That link is more glossy, I like the gloss finish personally, but for a flat coat you want something more like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001C42OXY

u/BadBrainLives · 1 pointr/BISMUTH

the crystals will be covering a 36x40" flat surface. i'm def not using nail polish on all of that. it'd take an eternity. alright, well thank you!

edit: I think this will work: https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26 and I already have a bunch that i use to preserve paintings, so should be good! let me know if you've heard otherwise about acrylic coating.

u/nite_ · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I think I figured out a way to get the gloss finish by using: Krylon 6-Ounce Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray

u/BraedonB · 1 pointr/longboarding

Amazon's acrylic clear, by Krylon. Likely also found at your local Home Depot, Rona, Wal-Mart, Canadian Tire, and possibly Target

u/NAMegaFauna · 1 pointr/sticker

This paper is a-ok

but also use this or something like it. Spray multiple times if you're using a lot of ink.

edit: tl;dr: if you're using gloss or vinyl use acrylic coating.

u/SkillfulApple · 1 pointr/smashbros

Maybe something like this could help. At least that's what I would buy. All of the wood varnish I would know needs to be applied with a brush, I don't know if yours is the same way. A spray coating like this will make it super easy to not have drips and get a perfect even coating.

u/crua9 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

&gt;3D prints aren't typically water-tight

I didn't know what.

Wouldn't clear coat work as well? Something like https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303A07-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

I kinda want to make it easy to deal with since I would like to sell some. Part of the reason why I'm making a bunch of models now is because I'm looking at having a $800 printer. I would like to offset that cost and the cost of materials even if it takes a while

u/Latentk · 1 pointr/discgolf

If she makes it a semi hobby you may want to test a few products as it probably depends on the disc and plastic used.

Of the several I looked up, something like this may be a good bet

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

It's relatively cheap and acrylic is great as it should prevent nearly everything minus perhaps sun bleaching. It also should be hair thin also making these discs tournament legal.

u/lilyofyosemite · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I have a bunch of F21 jewelry I like. If you're worried about it tarnishing you can use a clear spray, which helps protect the finish. I also love the earrings I got at Gap Outlet, though I'm not sure they have them online.

u/Elise_Grimwald · 1 pointr/cosplay

I have been using mod podge, so that part is good. I haven't been watering it down, though--does that really have any effect on anything?
And as for clear coat, you all mean this, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303A-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1488255466&amp;amp;sr=8-10&amp;amp;keywords=clear+coat
basically, anyway. I am stupid not to just have figured that out earlier, lol. &gt;_&lt;;. This stuff won't eat my foam, since it has been primed, right?
And I have another question, pertaining to Plasti-Dip:
Can I use regular acrylics on it, and can I apply it OVER mod podge? I have been mod podging everything right now, but I would like to try Plasti-Dip for my elbow armor/over elbow armor, shoe armor, and 'corset' (the armor looks like a corset), so they don't break. Those are the foam pieces I am the most concerned about, because they look like they'd be the most fragile. I have also already put news paper over the elbow piece (there were some areas I needed to fix, so I fixed them, and am using the paper to hide it), and will that work, with the plasti-dip? That is also mod podged, too. Also, does the clear plasti-dip work as well as the other colors? Every video I see uses black, so I thought I'd ask, before buying it.
Also, from what I understand, plasti-dip needs a respirator to be used. I get that. But if I go outside with my work, even if I have one, will the smell get into the house? My mom has respiratory issues, and I am kind of afraid of the smell seeping through the walls because of that.

u/isaacmorton · 1 pointr/DIEMs

It looks similar to what I’ve used before. Just be sure it’s an acrylic paint and not urethane-not good to put certain chemicals in your ears :)

Here’s a link to one I’ve used:
Krylon K01303A07 Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray, 6 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K65K26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cyyCb575YMXY

I’m not sure why, but when I did the spray acrylic, sometimes in about a month it would “glaze” or something - like it seemed like it was separating from the IEM. It might work temporarily, or it might work forever. Hard to say. Low risk to try though!

u/disgustipated · 1 pointr/Guitar

Make a test piece first. Lacquers are typically "hot" paints and it might kill the ink in the signature and make it run. If you can get hold of a similar pen and a piece of plastic or laminate similar to the pickguard, run a test first. Write something on it, let the ink thoroughly dry, the try the clearcoat.

Also, there are different types of clear - matte and gloss.

Best bet might be to go with something like this that's used in photography and art to preserve images and paintings.

u/MCubb · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh I've got a great theme!


Things to huff!

*** I, in no way, condone or suggest the huffing of anything other than air or perhaps the occasional oxygen bar. I do, however, completely condone and suggest the use of shiny spray to seal and make-perfect all works of art pertaining to the use of paints!

u/enginxer · 1 pointr/Gameboy

probably just an assload of crystal clear acrylic paint. I have this and it works great.

u/itsgottabereal · 1 pointr/metalworking

They have UV resistant clear coat here

u/motobusa · 1 pointr/chastity

How often does she unlock you? If it's not real frequent, you can use a clear spray (clear coat paint) like this and reapply periodically
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00397STRW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_jwPzzb0RN67RK

u/VoirenTea · 1 pointr/tea

I'd be dubious about the UV resistant paints, but here are a few:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasti-kote-24000-400ml-Premium-Spray/dp/B006XBT39Y (cheap)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Home-Kitchen/Rustoleum-AE0040001E8-400ml-Crystal-Clear-Gloss/B001W03PRM

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Uv-Resistant-Acrylic-Coating-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B00397STRW (expensive)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Surface-Sealant-Coating-Repellent-Plastic/dp/B00A3S1RGU - this one actually says how much it filters.

If you want to go opaque and have blackboard paint for writing on, there is this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/ckb/Rustins-250ml-Quick-Dry-Blackboard-Paint-Black/B001GU6GYM

I've used it on a large glass lid so far, did two layers, and am going to be using it on some smaller jars.

(But you don't really need blackboard paint if you want to write on them with liquid chalk markers, because they'll write on glass and glossy surfaces anyway).

u/monkeyfunky · 1 pointr/IDAP

After some research I've been spraying my works with a UV protectant spray.

u/paross · 1 pointr/retrogaming

/u/ghostopera You might consider a light spray of UV Protectant Clear Coat, so you don't have to bleach it again.

u/Xx_demiurge_xX · 1 pointr/arcade

I have used this on restores. Since you are working on new stock, two coats would work. Use an orbital sander 120, 220, and then 320 grit discs.



https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1495341881&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=high+fill+primer

u/kasperr · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Curious your bondo workflow. Seems like you can lose a lot of detail . Have you considered using 2-3 coats of this Primer Filler.

u/Nexustar · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Capillary issue hadn't occurred to me before, but it makes sense. But if you are going to acylic matte prime it anyway, I guess trying to fill those layer gaps first is a step worth taking.

Something like a filler-primer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/SilverIceDragon · 1 pointr/cosplay

I've used both this and this. I prefer the DupliColor because the Rustoleum has a stronger smell. You also need to be careful with the Rustoleum. Whenever I start a new can, it tends to spit blobs of gunk for the first few seconds.

u/LazerSpartanChief · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 This is the one I used, hopefully its not too much more expensive but it was $4.70 for me.

u/TurningItIntoASnake · 1 pointr/Kirby

Thanks! I printed him with PLA filament and then did a couple of coats of this filler primer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AM0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Did a lot of sanding with different level grit sandpaper to smooth him out and then once it was all done I started painting him with acrylic paints :)

u/constantino1 · 1 pointr/DIY

latex paint works best with an airless sprayer, but those will run you $300+.

I picked up a wagner https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1469559938&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=paint+sprayer

works ok for such things. it cant quite vaporize the paint, even after thinning with some floetrol and water. But it works better than a brush.

Its certainly faster, but it does waste a fair amount of paint.

Still, I hate painting, Ive gotten my money's worth IMO. Though with the amount Ive used it, I wish i had gotten an airless sprayer.

u/lakemalcom · 1 pointr/woodworking

I was curious too, I think it might be this one: http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48

u/BayHarborButcheri · 1 pointr/plastidip
u/cowanrg · 1 pointr/DIY

I was looking at this one. any thoughts?

u/dzendian · 1 pointr/DIY

Hi guys,

I want to do some painting. Lots of painting.

In my house:

u/ToughPillToSwallow · 1 pointr/woodworking

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PGQI48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Buy that. I have one and it's awesome. Use that with lacquer from Sherwin Williams. It was a total game changer for me. I may never brush on a finish again.

u/jdwayner · 1 pointr/woodworking

I recently bought and used this to build some cabinets for my utility room. It worked pretty well once I figured out the settings/paint consistency.

Ultimately, you are buying a $100 paint gun, more likely than not it will not work perfectly. I will say I was pleased with my purchase though.

u/tommydukes · 1 pointr/DIY

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PGQI48/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

here is my HLVP...the reviews are probably better than I can do. I like it.

whether or not its worth it???? YES.....spraying the corners and fronts was sooooo much easier than using a brush....in fact, I cant imagine using brushes for this

u/7x13 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Probably this.

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1311-Aerosol-Finish-Enamel/dp/B005ENZ8CS

But can't vouch for it since I've never used it. Should be available at Wal-Mart and Home Depot stores which are more common than hobby shops.

u/IamAlgy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm desperately looking for affordable flat/gloss top coat alternatives to MrHobby.
Does anyone know what type of paint this is? I can never find out whether it is Acrylic, Lacquer or enamel.
KRYLON Diversified Brands K01311007 Matte Finish Aerosol Paint 11 oz, Satin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ENZ8CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z-V6CbWBGVFXH

u/Stoddd · 1 pointr/Customsneakers

I'm not sure for athletic shoes what to paint with I'd say experiment and see what works, maybe leather paints would work because its good for flexing (I could be wrong I'm not the best) but for finishing use Krylon matte finisher that should do it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

u/homo-summus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Is this stuff pretty good to use if I want a matte coat? Also, if there are parts I want shiny and parts I want matte, do I just have to break out the painter's tape?

u/marctyme · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

For Testors, is this the product you use? It’s what comes up when I search Dullcote

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0y4HAbRN050CW

2. From your description it sounds like you paint the Quickshade on with old brushes as opposed to full on “dipping” the model in the Quickshade which is what is is shown in the guide. This is just for control/reduces amount I’m assuming? Is dipping the mini straight in there too much?

3. I havent had too many issues with mold lines (fingers crossed) thus far, what bothers me is slight gaps, like on the breast/collar bones of my hexwraiths mounts. Would you recommend a sliver of green stuff (haven’t touched it yet) or something for this? I could just be a sloppy gluer but in my experience sometimes these gaps seem unavoidable. Thoughts?

4. It’s funny you mention the palette, I lurked for awhile before jumping in with models and paints and so a wet palette was one of the first this i tried and didn’t use the right materials and it was too thin and so had to do more work/coats than necessary and ended up with not great results anyway :( it’s more correct now. Not perfect but better.

5. I’m pretty well through beating up my first set of brush so I think I’m ready to re-up. I think I’ll go for a few nice detail brushes and a cheaper utility set elsewhere, so if you have any recommendations, lemme know!

6. If I want bases for certain models or to kitbash some graveyard markers, where should I pick those up? eBay is full of knock offs that look untrustworthy or wouldn’t look right. Do you just get them straight from GW?

7. On that same subject, I want a dark if not black resident evil/silent hill style moonlight graveyard basing for my models, Any leads where I could find materials for this? I don’t want the typical tufts of grass or snow or rubble I see elsewhere.

Thanks again!

Edit: bad at words

u/Kremak · 1 pointr/40k

What could also be done to reduce the shiny effect on the nids would be to hit it with a matte varnish like this

u/tarmogoyf · 1 pointr/Tau40K

IDK if Citadel makes one specifically, I'm sure they do, but like a lot of their products, you're often better off getting a different brand that's just as good quality (and frequently better) as well as being cheaper.

&amp;#x200B;

What I personally use is Testors clear: https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4

&amp;#x200B;

You don't have to use a lot, just enough to get an even coat over the whole miniature. Be sure to spray this outside or in a well-ventilated area. Also, don't forget that when you're done coating your models, to hold the spray can upside down and spray the excess for a couple seconds until it's just spraying the medium -- that way it clears out the spray mechanism. If you don't, it'll be clogged up next time you go to use it. This is true for all kinds of spray cans, including primers -- it's a common rookie mistake, so just mentioning it in case you haven't worked with this stuff yet.

u/mastaberg · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

You can put a matte varnish on if you'd like. I don't usually because the paint holds up pretty good if you treat it well. If you do a varnish for the whole model definitely go matte to maintain the look. Only use a rattle can version. I've used the tester's one a lot:
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Spray-Lacquer-Paint/dp/B009FF6DN4

u/Ive_Defected · 1 pointr/minipainting

Testors dullcoate

Testors Aerosol Spray Lacquer Paint, 3oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zI0NybHY3JBHY

u/Man_Fried · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This stuff is the best. Goes on smooth is cheap and easy to use.

Testors Aerosol Spray Lacquer Paint, 3oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qYubzbB3QAGQT

u/Donnchaidh · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I've been using a clear coat from Testors.

Seems to do the job just fine. I'll use a gloss medium on things like canopies after the clear coat is full cured.

u/tug_boat_captain · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use Vallejo brush on primer, but I use the grey color. Here is a link. It's a debate on here whether or not their "White Primer" is actually primer, or if it's just the color of their paint. I've heard different things from different people but never used it myself. Also, white tends to be a hard color to get even coverage with, so that might be your problem as well.

As far as your glossy problem, you could always hit your minis with some Testors Aerosol Enamel Paint 3oz-Dullcote Lacquer. This seems to be the preferred spray matte. If you want a brush on matte varnish, I have had good results with the Vallejo matte varnish. I haven't used anything else. Hope this helps!

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Did you use Army Apinter Quickshade? Maybe a little lighter with it next time. Otherwise I'd say hit them with some matte varnish to lower that gloss a little and you're good.

I recommend this...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;colid=2QL17RCXJFV7R&amp;amp;coliid=I18Q3IT3HOY77J

u/dodomir23 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

unfortunately i live in somewhat of a countryside and need everything shipped...

https://www.amazon.ca/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1525997806&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=testor%27s+dullcote+spray

this looks a lot more reasonable but I've seen some people saying it melts your gunpla or something...? have you had any experience with this one?

edit:

nevermind, this looks like a very good alternative

https://www.amazon.ca/85080-Spray-TS80-Clear-100ml/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1525998118&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=tamiya+flat+clear

u/Kelevradog · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ok so is this an enamell or a lacquer it says both on the page? And will this make gundam panel markers run?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/radiokungfu · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi, would this work as topcoat?

u/ShinReska · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Thank you! The final coat was a Testors Spray Lacquer, Dull Coat. Amazon Link

u/theheavilyarmedclown · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use this and it dries matte.

u/Rdddss · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/happyrabbits · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thank you!

I used KEDA Dye

u/litronix · 1 pointr/tabletop

This stuff, https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/

Don't have much use for the red, yellow, and blue. I mostly used the brown with a touch of black.

u/ccrjf · 1 pointr/turning

I haven't used food coloring yet, so can't really comment on that aspect of it, but I ordered some Keda Dye about a year ago because I wanted to experiment with aniline dye without blowing a chunk of change on TransTint. I mix it with DNA (water can be used as well) so I can flash it off with a torch and set the colors quickly. Example on a bowl

u/bassfingerz · 1 pointr/guitarporn

wood dye if you want color, spray tru oil or shellac. You can buy the tru oil spray cans online, not sure if they have in stores.
I recommend this
wood dye.

u/randohandle · 1 pointr/DIY

I just redid this thing A https://imgur.com/a/1feUU sanded to 150 grit with bare wood. I'm not sure there was any finish on it to begin with. I used this dye https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ 1/4 teaspoon in 8oz of denatured alcohol. 2-3 coats of the dye with a piece of t shirt. Black on the dresser and red on the drawers. It dries in like 30 seconds. The dye looks different when it dries, but polyurethane over top brings it back to how it looks when wet. Then I put on a few coats of old crusty oil based polyurethane with a $.50 harbor freight brush. Let the 2nd to last coat dry for 24 hours. Lightly sand and pick out the fibers shed by the brush. Then the final coat.

u/catdumpling · 1 pointr/Luthier

Good job (although I don't think you'll need that much maple ;) .) And hey, if you're crafty and feeling like making some guitar tools, you can use some of that maple, epoxy and a single-cut file (medium or fine) to make a fret-leveling file! I always keep some pieces of HD maple laying around, it comes in handy for all sorts of projects (plus it's strong and cheap!)

BTW, here's a link to Keda Dyes on Amazon, although they're available from their own site as well. The packets are small, but it's super concentrated (as are most powdered aniline dyes), so a little bit goes a long way. For $13 shipped, you might be interested in trying them out.

Here's a link to Fiebings Leather Dye, if you're considering giving that a go. Note that it's alcohol-based, so you can thin them out with alcohol if necessary (they're pretty heavy colors, so thinning would probably be a good thing; you can always add extra coats, but you'll have a lot of sanding to do if you put on too much!) Woodcraft and Rockler both carry some dyes as well, and Woodcraft is just a great place to shop anyway.

u/ailee43 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Check out powdered Keda dyes as a comparable alternative for enormously cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/

u/HuggableBear · 1 pointr/woodworking

Try some aniline wood dye.

A little goes a long way and you can blend your own colors.

u/cavecrap · 1 pointr/INEEEEDIT

Here is a link to Amazon. Looks like something similar. Might be a little easier to get there.

It's at the big box hardware stores also.

u/GreatQuestionBarbara · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

That page showed me this, and similarly this. The old Asian man wall sticker made my day.

u/Binsky89 · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting
u/NoliteTimere · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

I see your Asian man and raise you Sperm in Mouse Testes.

u/choochoopain · 1 pointr/CasualConversation
u/Nabotna · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

Please allow me to Fix That For You.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TLXWVRM/

u/vankorgan · 1 pointr/AmazonTopRated
u/Aelba · 1 pointr/madlads

This reminds me of this one poster on amazon

u/PotatoBadger · 1 pointr/Silverbugs
u/koshgeo · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

Not this? https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-FOT-63298300/dp/B0150BAHNI/ref=sr_1_615?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496614104&amp;sr=1-615. I especially can't figure out how Amazon's algorithm settled on the "Frequently bought together" options for that one. I suspect shenanigans.


There's some weird stuff in that Amazon "Wall Stickers &amp; Murals" category. The juxtapositions are funny too. Just when you're passing through the "normal" inspirational Bible verses and Hello Kitty stickers you come across stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Redrum-Shining-Halloween-Wall-Decal/dp/B00OGHYV94/ref=sr_1_434?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496613789&amp;sr=1-434.

u/zachalicious · 1 pointr/AmazonWTF
u/qmracer01 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Well there is this or this if that isn't enough there is asia old man or "smiling" Asian teen

u/st112570 · 1 pointr/offbeat

Well then you'll love the 2'x2' wall decal I got for my friend's birthday, then.

https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-WM335116/dp/B0150BAJYA

u/Rogersgirl75 · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

I think this one is even better. Like, haven't you always wanted a photo of an old asthmatic woman on your wall?

https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-WM335116/dp/B0150BAJYA

u/cermomen · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm ready.

One.

[Two.]
(https://www.amazon.com/JL421-Badonkadonk-Land-Cruiser-Tank/dp/B00067F1CE?tag=zdgeek-20)

Three.

Oh, and if I happened to win, I'd want the Womens owlbear design shirt on my list called Liszt, which is also a fairly weird item if you think about it.

u/NotJockz · 1 pointr/legaladvice

I'm going to link to the products through a goo.gl url shortener and an amazon affiliate link. If they purchase the product, I get a commission.

Also it's not awful things for sale, it's just weird stuff. Stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-WM335116/dp/B0150BAJYA

u/pm_me_flaccid_cocks · 1 pointr/wtfstockphotos
u/YarsRevenge78 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

3M VHB tape is the best
VHB stands for Very High Bond, it sticks amazingly well to smooth surfaces like a kwad frame but when you want to remove it you can peel it off pretty easily. It isnt going anywhere when you fly. It is also a little foamy so it provides a little cushion bten the carbon fiber and electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_hQ4jDbV2SB64H

u/Cutlasss · 1 pointr/XVcrosstrek

Did you save it, or is it gone? It can be reattached if not lost or damaged. Get some of this stuff to replace the original tape.

u/Rick91981 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You could use double sided tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1517867355&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=3m+vhb

The con is that you might not be able to remove it so easily. This stuff is pretty extreme.

u/surensm · 1 pointr/mpminidelta

&gt;... I just reenter it and it stays.

Have you tried using some 3M double sided tape on the sides to improve adhesion? Just those three small strips hold that thing down like an anchor.

u/mariocontino · 1 pointr/onewheel

It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91

Or

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR

u/Bot_Metric · 1 pointr/onewheel

FTFY:

It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91

Or

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 4.6 meters. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR

_____

^(I'm a bot) ^| ^Feedback ^| ^Stats ^| ^Opt-out ^| ^(v5.0)

u/ItsDarts · 1 pointr/iphone

I had a problem with the original PS tape as well, it stuck for about 20 mins before it came off. I work in an automotive test lab and we use 3M’s VHB double sided tape for sticking instrumentation and other stuff inside and out side of cars. It sticks even inside of hot cars and outside in cold weather. This is what I use on my pop socket and leather case. Just use an alcohol wipe to clean the surfaces.

u/Zanndaman · 1 pointr/StandingDesk

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mI8CZO4gVAsfR

That stuff works wonders. I used 4 strips and it is up there haha.

u/JonathanSCE · 1 pointr/functionalprint

If you use 3M's VHB tape, it has an rating for 90° C during use. It's the same tape used for putting up some road signs. It's also the same adhesive use on the Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener (Heavy Duty Velcro) to attach electronic toll collection tags to car windshields.

u/Shyres0122 · 1 pointr/Acoustics

So what we found online was initially this through Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZ67LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qn1mDbFEHVGBE and then I actually found these at Home Depot that say in the description they can work for sound dampening... https://www.homedepot.com/p/LuxorWare-19-7-in-x-1-in-x-19-7-in-White-PVC-Fiber-3D-Wall-Panels-12-Pack-LW3D826/303607357?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-205079515-_-303607357-_-N

u/GOpencyprep · 0 pointsr/IDAP

Thanks dude! And, yeah that's an awesome design, I think it'd make a cool deck too.

I'll let you in on a secret that took me forever to figure out: the best way to make masking / stencils is to get yourself some transparency sheets, like the kind used for overhead projectors in school, and then take a marker and draw what you want to spray through (best way to make stencils). Then take a 'wood burning kit' (which is just a low-heat soldering gun pretty much) and use it to "trace" your lines on the transparancy sheet, do it light and quick and it'll cut the parts out that you want - afterwards you'll be left with a mask or stencil that's much stronger than paper, easy to clean, and the wood engraver allows you to make more detailed and smoother cuts than if you were masking with tape, or cutting out of cardboard or card stock.

When you finish your painting, you'll want to give it a light coat of clear spray finish, and when that dries hit it with a coact of actual clear coat - I use minwax - that''s 'satin' (which is their way of saying 'matte') listed there but I prefer mine to be gloss. It's important that you hit it with the spray finish first, because it'll seal the paint, and the minwax may cause it to run if you don't. I use a lot of markers in my paintings and minwax will absolutely make them bleed and run if I don't seal them first.

You also want to seal it because the acrylic will easily chip off the deck

Like I said, also be aware that painting on a deck is A LOT different than painting on canvas, the deck will cause the acrylic to paint much faster than canvas so you lose that 'wet period' you normally have to blend paint.

Good luck, post a picture when you finish it! And feel free to drop me a line if you have any other questions.

u/ligglo · 0 pointsr/3Dprinting

There isn't a way to do it without having seam lines, and you, being the one that made it, will always see them. Some people may not notice them for a while, but upon close inspection they will become obvious.

All props that I have made have peen printed, assembled, finished, in that order. If you want to keep the stainless steel pla visible, there isn't really anything I can think to do. In terms of part assembly I trust nothing but Krazy Glue. It dries in about 10 seconds, and another 30 seconds or so and the bond is stronger than the later bonds of PETG, which is known for its layer strength. Absolute nightmare if you mess up. If you do mess up, or are not confident on the seam, separate immediately.

If you're looking to go the painting route then I would assemble it, fill the gaps with some Bondo. Wait for it to dry, sand it flush, use some Filler Primer, then spray paint it. Once painted, cover in a Clear Coat so the paint doesn't rub off.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll get back to you.

u/Analog_Seekrets · 0 pointsr/HomeImprovement

YES. I know that I'm going to get downvoted to hell because everyone on here says not to do it. And I don't have any experience using a professional sprayer.

BUT, I do have this Wagner sprayer with it's own mini-compressor (not attached to the gun, this is important) and it's awesome! I've used it to paint my whole house (interior). I've had very minimal (if any) overspray. I just tape off the molding and lay some paper down where the wall meets the floor and go to town. I actually bought one of those trim tools someone else suggested and add some Floetrol or water to make it easier to spray.

For 100 bucks, it's been a worthwhile investment. Taping off takes the most time...I find that I can paint a room in about 30min. It really makes up time in the cutting in, rolling, rolling, rolling, dipping the roller back in the pan, rolling some more. You just move your arm and spray until the container is empty.


Edit: All of you guys are pussies. There are a bunch of stay at home mommy bloggers who use paint sprayers and do just fine.

u/Threeedaaawwwg · 0 pointsr/funny
u/Virginin · 0 pointsr/dankmemes