(Part 2) Best towing products & winches according to redditors

They are called Dampers.

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB220-Orange-Recovery-Damper/dp/B0010DYFPW

First off as a reminder for everybody: if you guys could make suggestion posts self-posts, that would be great! I'll leave this here since you've already got some comments already and are off road in the picture. :)

Now...

Here is my wagon currently.

There's a pretty good amount of stuff you can do for your wagon. :)

Starting with protection, Primitive makes excellent quality plates that will keep your car safe from rocks and branches from stabbing into your under-body driving or if you bottom out. I highly recommend Primitive. They're excellent to work with.

Let's talk about lifts, now! :) There's multiple ways to lift an Outback. Subtle Solutions and Gorilla Off-Road Company both make 1" Spacers that allow you to lift without much (if any) correction to the suspension.

After lifting, getting an alignment is definitely recommended. Also note that 2" is pretty much the max for lifting our cars unless you're wanting to getting into dropping the subframe. SJR makes a lift that goes 4" and 6", but they increase in price significantly from the 2" model.

If you're looking for a lift that has some more on the road benefits, King Springs are another viable option as they have ~20% stiffer progressive spring rate that keeps the car stiffer on corners and keeps you from bouncing around off-road. They're usually put on new shocks and the most commonly used ones are KYB GR2s. There's a little discrepancy on how much they lift, but it's usually 1"-1.5". The King Spring + KYB GR2 combo will run you ~$900, which is a little pricey, but worth it if you're looking for an improved ride.

One last route to go (which I think I'm going to do these and regular height King Springs) is an SJR lift which uses metal lifting blocks found here. They provide a 2" lift and are angled to keep stock strut geometry which is definitely nice.

Lights are a place you can mix it up a bit. Hella 500s are tried and true and have a more "rally" look to them, but I recently bought this front LED light bar and absolutely love it. It's light output is ridiculous and it's great for the price. So far, no complaints. Just remember for bulb lights, circle lights generally put out more. :) Her's my top LED light bar as well if you're interested.

I got this roof rack and am very happy with it. It's solid and great for the money. They make an extension piece as well and a cargo net

Rally Armor Mud Flaps are useful for keeping the mud on your car down and also defecting rocks from your paint. :)

And last but not least, tires! I highly recommend General Grabber AT2s. You can go about one more tire size bigger than stock and still not rub. :) Tires are one of the best upgrades you can get for going off-road. :)

I hope this helps! :)

Well...here's all the stuff I bought on my Amazon list lately. Does that help?

AUKEY 1080p Dash Cam
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FGL63X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Car Travel Inflatable Mattress
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7MZ3YO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Xprite Amber 240 LED Roof Top Mini Flashing Strobe Light
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091XUAY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smoke Tint Slim Wind Deflector
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00335FH4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pet Dog Seat Belt Leash
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719R1YNZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

30 Ft. Polyester Tow Strap
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5RMPT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hood tie-Down Loops
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seat Cover for Pets
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHC02EY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Silicone Wedding Ring For Men (For the radio knobs)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD31K4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Tray
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KI3WG1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Organizer
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZB4VZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Car Seat Covers
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBLOR88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Husky Liners Front Floor Liners
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019YS22MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Annnnnnnnnnd I'm just now seeing you were talking about the 2nd Gen...

Maxtrax MKII
recovery board/track

Edit: almost identical to * except for the teeth at the ends

Edit 2: ACTIONTRAX Traction Board

I use these straps. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IQM8UDC

...and this is why you always use a line dampener.

Hijacking the top comment to post this:

NO HE DID NOT WELD THAT

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70355-class-Hitch-Adapter/dp/B00ISLA1WA/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=CjwKCAiAqqTuBRBAEiwA7B66hb-zkBGwN2wxk1GauHSg0UFzgHUcNEZnpfOe2HNRXiKyRnyFWARjYRoCLhQQAvD_BwE&hvadid=323586739560&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9024248&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5833784479784469206&hvtargid=kwd-781164020063&hydadcr=18942_10719460&keywords=trailer+hitch+adapter+2+inch+to+1+1%2F4&qid=1573497460&sr=8-5

2 of those ^

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-45110-Class-Ball-Mount/dp/B0007M308A/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=trailer+hitch+drop&qid=1573497493&sr=8-28

1 of those ^

He bolted a bunch of premanufactured adapters together to make this monstrosity

I'm going to assume this will be a generic mall crawler and not leave the pavement very often. If you plan to take it wheeling, reply back and I will add a few more suggestions.

Things to think about

1. The hardtop takes up a lot of room. Either plan on putting in some sort of hoist to store it up high or giving up a lot of garage space.
   
   
2. Until you have the previously mentioned hoist in place, the hardtop is a pain in the ass to put on and take off without help. Not because its heavy, but because its awkward. It also means that you can't just drop the top if the day is nicer than expected. On my old jeep, I eventually sold the hardtop and went soft top only. On my new Jeep, I skipped the hard top entirely.
   
   If you plan on storing instruments in the vehicle and need the secure storage, great. If not, then the soft top is the way to go in my opinion.
   
   
3. For long haul trips, the back seats suck. The angle of the backrest on the rear seats is a bit steep and becomes uncomfortable after awhile. Also, there is no support under the center of the back seat. If the person in the middle is heavy, the seat could sag and become even more uncomfortable. There are a few aftermarket products to address both seat sagging and the recline issue but I've never tested them.
   
   
   Options to consider:
   
   
4. 3.73 gears will cost you ~$600 or so. If you ever plan on putting on bigger tires or towing, you want the 3.73 gears. The 3.21 gears will give you an extra mile or so per gallon but at the expense of quite a bit of power.
   
   
5. Don't buy either of the tow packages. The basic tow package costs around $350 and is just a hitch and wiring harness. You can buy the same receiver hitch on its own for $75. The wiring harness just clips in and its a quick and easy 4 bolt install.
   
   The Max tow package is almost as bad a deal. That's $900 and gives you the $3.73 gears ($600 above) and the hitch in one package. Still better to buy the gears on their own and use your own hitch.
   
   
   
6. Spiderweb Shade This is a must have if you plan on going topless very often. The best part is that once its installed, you never have to remove it. It fits right under the factory tops.
   
   
7. Unless you plan on putting in an aftermarket sound system, spend the money for the alpine upgrade. Without it you can't hear the music over the sound of the wind if you have the top down.
   
   
8. Hood latches - There are several options, both with and without keys. If you live in a zero crime area, great...but for the rest of us, a set of keyed hood latches will help keep your battery from getting stolen. Also, the hood flutters at high speed with the stock latches. That makes me nervous.
   
   
9. Door hinge locks are also a good idea. Jeep doors are easy to take off, expensive to replace, and are stolen more often than you would think. While not foolproof, they are better than nothing...especially if you don't keep the key to them in the jeep itself.
   
   
   
   

Not sure what traction boards she went with but if they don't look like these then they are probably going to be garbage.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxtrax-MTX02SO-MKIIs/dp/B00HYCVSW6/

I would suggest using a hi-lift jack as a winch. Below is everything you would need.

https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-HL484-Black-Steel/dp/B00042KG3A/

2x https://www.amazon.com/Strap-Reinforced-Loops-Pound-Capacity/dp/B00N4IDPZM/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tow+strap&qid=1556900367&s=automotive&sr=1-7

https://www.amazon.com/Astra-Depots-Synthetic-Shackles-000lbs/dp/B07H326WN4/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=soft+shackle&qid=1556900415&s=automotive&sr=1-9

DO NOT USE ANYTHING WITH METAL HOOKS. If something breaks those hooks take off like bullets and will kill or hurt you or someone else. Properly rated chains are fine (but I prefer not to use them)

Here is how you would use the hi-lift as a winch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaZcdrc3KTc

Just make sure you respect the hi-lift and keep your fingers/head clear as I've seen quite a few people get knocked out when they let go of the handle and it swings up on them.

I this hitch and this rack for our CX-5

Yeah is a class III and overkill but you never know if you need to tow something.

You mean like a truck winch? Huh? There are ATV winches like this: https://www.amazon.com/Champion-2000-lb-ATV-UTV-Winch/dp/B00BKW444K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511200609&sr=8-3&keywords=atv+winch that run off 12v DC (car battery).

I have a neighbor that uses one like that in his hard during the winter. He's got a little red rider wagon thing with a car battery in it. The winch is thru-bolted to the wagon's metal floor. He has a car battery charger in there and then runs an extension cord to it from his house.

It's for a sled hill, so the kids just hold into the tow rope and get dragged back up the rather steep hill.

Another victory for COTS hardware solutions!

B R A V O E L O N
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I'd say this tow strap

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QSHIEU?keywords=Tow%20strap&qid=1453624660&ref_=sr_1_7&sr=8-7

And this D shackle set

http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-11235-06-Black-D-Shackles/dp/B00H90NL4G/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=416u-Gm6HrL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=02865NV0T7R32XH618HP

Make sure you're familiar with where your recovery point's are on your vehicle.

Have you tried using an axle strap for the belt? Seems to be the same basic idea but much cheaper.

TGL 2-Pack of 2", 36" Axle Straps 10,000 Pound Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQM8UDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WtjQAb83SG974

I used these axle straps from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQM8UDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and used these hooks: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-Grade-43-Zinc-Plated-Clevis-Slip-Hook-42504/205887507

I can make a post with some pics if you want. It is adjustable because it hooks into the holes, and for half adjustments I move one side up or down one hole.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CLXR452/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482969272&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=d+shackle&dpPl=1&dpID=41RhX4t4hRL&ref=plSrch

These have worked well for me

I went with 2" since it's easier to go down than it is to go up.

Got this for my 2017 cx5, not certain it fits the newer ones

Curt 13315 Black 2" Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver for 2013-2018 Mazda CX-5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S18BY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lHZBCbCFCV8R5

A damper blanket is an actual piece of recovery gear, it is a weighted cloth that attaches to the strap and pulls it to the ground if it breaks. It also acts as an air brake if it tries to fly through the air.

Edit: an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010DYFPW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_HPz.wb1QB4FTK

as much as I dislike the rest of their stuff I bought this and it has worked well. A strap can fit over the end.

http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-27046B-Beaver-Step-Hitch/dp/B004K23KQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426016305&sr=8-1&keywords=beaver+tail+smittybilt

Two orders of these: http://amzn.com/B004ND86EM

One order of this: http://amzn.com/B004B61B34

One order of these: http://amzn.com/B0013935FY

Consider just adding a sway bar with no WDH.

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/

This one by CURT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XSZ9SM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_32lWCbR50WX05

I agree with your assessment.

Depending on what the straps are made of.. if it's a heavy duty ~20,000 lbs snatch strap there would be little risk of it breaking.

I got this one it takes about an hour to install by yourself. Requires light reaming of holes with a hand file, but is solid. I recommend a second person to help line things up. curt trailer hitch

Maybe this... (you'll have to cut the metal triangles off the ends)

https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-04226-Premium-Strap-D-Ring/dp/B000CO9QNQ/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CO9QNQ&pd_rd_r=N47JA7AEEFC1JGKR7BJE&pd_rd_w=Tgfw1&pd_rd_wg=X925J&psc=1&refRID=N47JA7AEEFC1JGKR7BJE

Or this...

http://www.strapworks.com/Strapworks_Simple_Sling_p/hss2p.htm

Not a 4x4. GMC 1500 Sierra. Truck got stuck, not the TT. The sand you see in the pic is nicely packed and easy driving. The sand I got stuck in was fine like flour and literally 16 inches deep. The front tires bogged down and built a barrier, which made me lose momentum. Then the rear started spinning. I was making slow progress with a shovel and traction boards. Then the ridgeline dude showed up. His power plus mine was all that was needed.

Traction control also was a problem. I forgot to turn it off. So when I started spinning the rear started bucking.

Deflating the tires would have helped but I have never had a problem at this location before (4 trips) so I just plowed through. Also, I’m a little wary of the low inflation trick. Just makes me uncomfortable.

I suggest some tools.
Shovel
Traction boards
Tow straps
Maybe tire tracks

Something like this?

ARB ARB220 Orange Recovery Damper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010DYFPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cweBCbDAD6V02

Two ways to consider: if space or compactness is paramount, an ATV/UTV winch or hoist may suffice. Almost all are 12v, but getting a converter should not present much of a problem.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BKW444K/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00PX0VM7M&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1NEC373BE7VQ2K5TKBK5

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-2955AT-1500lb-Portable/dp/B000PQGE4A

Or purchase a trailer winch or hoist:

https://www.etrailer.com/Electric-Winch/Dutton-Lainson/DL25514.html

For the weight it is going to hoist, or the time it will be running, I don't think getting it hot will be much of a problem. But you will have to make that determination.

Check out the beaver step by Smittybilt. i.e. ze rear end radiator spear.

Smittybilt 27046B Beaver Step for 2-Inch Hitch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K23KQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cPqDb6JPVQX3

Also acts as a rear recovery point!

Maxtrax

Also D-Rings and a tow strap or snatch strap for somebody to pull you out.D-Ring Snatch Strap

After further deliberation... the hinge thing is probably unnecessary.

A rectangular or square plate is probably superior...

http://www.thyssenkruppaerospace.com/uploads/pics/pic_aluminium_weight_1.gif

...it could have angle iron "skis" topside to facilitate drag reduction...

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/180423751639-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

...and a 500lb capacity winch to actuate the magnet.

https://www.amazon.ca/910500-Drill-Winch-500lb-capacity/dp/B00SF70SN4

This may be best accomplished by a team of coordinating bots.

A surveying drone...

http://www.aviationwa.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/UAV_argyle_mine_flight2_Aibotix.jpg

...a lightweight mine detecting and site marking rover (anything under 50 pounds with a spread footprint I presume to be unlikely to trip a mine)...

http://metaldetectingforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202343&stc=1&d=1362355604

http://www.sedoniatech.co.nz/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/r/o/robotshop-robot-rover-arduino-tank-kit-rubber-tracks.jpg

...and a heavy duty plate-dropping drone.

http://drones.specout.com/saved_search/Drones-that-Carry-the-Most-Weight

To add all functions to one machine is maybe not outside of the realm of possibility. Like this, only much wider and carrying all of the tech listed above.

http://img.gizmag.com/B_Unstoppable.jpg?auto=format%2Ccompress&ch=Width%2CDPR&fit=max&h=700&q=60&w=616&s=04eacebf738176a34a4156bbd181353c

Requiring a drone capable of lifting 200 pounds or more to sustain flight a few inches above the ground while performing metal detection seems in-viable. Perhaps a guiding contact wire instead of an altimeter could replace the rover, and add its responsibility to the drone.... or function similar to a hovercraft. Surely a drone carrying all of the equipment above is liable to weigh more than 50 pounds... and thus the thrust necessary to lift it may very well be transferred into dangerous pressures on the ground within a few inches of altitude.

Winch 10 pounds

Magnet 2 pounds

Metal detector ~5 pounds?

Survey equipment ~10 pounds?

Drone ??? pounds?



http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-3218558/Is-bird-plane-No-s-SUPER-DRONE-54-propeller-Swarm-flying-machine-launches-man-skies.html

On its surface, I'm tempted to agree with you - it seems like it should work.
I'm not an engineer though, so take my agreement with a giant 'internet-stranger-advice' grain of salt.
These ones from Amazon are also listed as 10k lbs, and are 24" which match the length of the short ones from Rogue.

I have learned my lesson and invested in basic recovery gear. Hi-jack lift is next. Also not in this picture is a Viair 88p.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AV2HONS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QSHIEU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H90NJ4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Mazda 3 as well! it is a different generation than yours though. i just remembered the key to what makes my system work. I have a hitch on the back for a bike rack. so I would also use a canoe loader bar like this one. It worked for me because i already had the canoe loader bar thing from using it with a previous truck, and the hitch was there for the bike rack. so that wasn't an up front cost to me. but really, i suggest it. the hitch is useful to have and easy to install yourself. and this bar is cheap. Look at the pictures of cars using it on the amazon link.

All Amazon dude.

Curt Roof Rack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O844DS/

Curt Rack Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O844EM/

Crown Auto Jerry Cans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0OSDPQ/

Kuat NV Base 2.0:

https://www.kuatracks.com/products/hitch/nv-base-2-0/

It's a 2" which works as-is on my wife's SUV. On the little car I have it attached to this 1 1/2" adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISLA1WA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And to reduce the wobble, this stabilizer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AM7XVS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When using it with the 2" receiver, it has a built in stabilizer and needs nothiing extra.

Just got a couple of these for use with my DIY pulley system.. they are heavy duty. Straps

If you have a truck I recommend one of these "F your front end" bumpers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K23KQ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got this one cause its cheap.

https://smile.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-13382-Trailer-Hitch/dp/B075XSZ9SM/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2I2N0MXX8DUET&keywords=curt+hitch&qid=1556217815&s=gateway&sprefix=curt+%2Caps%2C391&sr=8-11

but you do lose a LITTLE rear ground clearance, but so far I've never found an issue. there's another one where its hidden and you don't lose any ground clearance and its called eco hitch I think? but ehhhh for more $$$

I did get this hitch rack that swing opens so you can still open the hatch while the bikes are still on it. Very convenient. try to find one used!

https://www.rei.com/product/875383/yakima-swingdaddy-4-bike-hitch-rack

I think only the off road/pro4x have tow points in the front to pull from, but even then I would rather pull from the hitch or fit aftermarket recovery points. There are some for sale in thenewx.org marketplace, and some plans on how to make them there. I ran across some 1/2 thick angle iron and plan to make some, but haven't had time yet.

recovery strap
https://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB705-2-3-Recovery-Strap/dp/B004P9DQLC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510170669&sr=8-1&keywords=arb+recovery+strap

Tow strap
https://www.amazon.com/Tow-Strap-Reflective-Emergency-Reinforced/dp/B071FMW8FP/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510170716&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=tow+strap&psc=1

Kinetic rope
https://www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-176655BKG-Renegade-20/dp/B00BZZB6OS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510170750&sr=1-4&keywords=kinetic+rope

All are a little different, but similar. I can't really tell you what to use. You may want to check out youtube channels like Ronny dahl that explain the differences in recovery gear. Just try not to get the ones with the hooks, i've used them but they are more likely to become a projectile than one with a proper end and a d ring

Does your vehicle have a reese hitch? I use a rotating t post reese canoe loader to load a 16' OT Penobscot canoe on my Honda Element. It's super slick and easy. You just pick up one end of the upside down boat and put it on the t post. Bungee it in place and then walk to the back of the boat and pick it up while swiveling the whole thing around the vehicle to secure the front end to the front tow hooks under the front bumper. Add a belly band and some rear tie downs, (wlready attached to the boat and go.

something like this then :

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002QSHIEU?keywords=snatch%20strap&qid=1453724536&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Damn it's pricy

Or you could buy one that isnt a riser like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE09N4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Another thing to consider is to make sure to match the coupler with the hitch ball but NOT BY USING A HITCH ADAPTER!!! Most hitch adapter drops the maximum safe tongue weight significantly, usually by half. Your hitch is probably a class I or II receiver hitch. The ball mount size will be limited for those two and will probably be a 1 7/8" ball. Your trailer, given the size, probably has a coupler for 2" or 2 5/16" ball. What I'm saying is, do not use an adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE09N4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to use a larger shank and ball. Instead, swap out the coupler to fit the smaller ball.

I use the above adapter for my CT200h but only to attach a cargo basket and I'm extra mindful of the reduced weight capacity.

I installed my own ... it took about 1 hour and really wasn't all that tough.

I installed this hitch receiver https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S18BY2

And this wiring harness https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118563.html

You do have to disconnect the exhaust from its hangers (which is easy) and support the exhaust during the install. I did this with a ratcheting tie down.

You might be better off just doing this yourself.

I just bought this the other day and installed it last night. Takes about an hour and is straight forward. You will be all set on the Jeep side of towing.

aluminum ramp from harbor frieght and Warn drill winch

We decided just to go for jet skis. If I cant lift myself back up on the jetski if I fall off can I just use this and where could i safely attach to my buddies jetski so he could tow me and the jetski to the shore so I can hop back on? any advice greatly appreciated. don't want to be stranded out in the water... or attach a tow rope to somewhere it might break or snap something off..

https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Strap-Hooks-Towing-Recovery/dp/B00L5RMPT6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496949517&sr=8-3&keywords=tow+rope

I actually have a recovery strap, not a tow rope. There are no hooks on the end. You use shackles with it like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CLXR452/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kPGyCbAAQ9DCT

For sway control, absolutely. These things aren't like pa's tandem axle car hauler. They are built to be light weight and light on the tongue, 10% of the camper weight, so they blow around everywhere. If you want to go the cheap route just buy the sway control and have the metal tab welded (picture 2) welded to an extended ball mount so it looks something like this but gives you more clearance. It's worth the 100 bucks in safety.

The other option is buy The whole set and install it yourself. It's not difficult and there's youtube videos all over the place. If you do buy a WDH bigger is not better. The leverage involved can do a lot of damage to the tow vehicle or trailer so don't just buy a 12000lb set and hook it to your 3000lb tow light.

These numbers are straight out of my ass because I don't know your cab, axle, 4wd, but here goes. Generic v8 full-size truck payload 1500lb. GCVW 7000. Trailer Max- 7500ish

Single axle trailer up to 4500lb- sway control, no WDH
Tandem axle trailer up to 7500- sway control and WDH

I got a drawtite hitch from etrailer and highly recommend(https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Mazda/CX-5/2018/76138.html).

I actually bought a curt hitch and didn't like how you had to basically leave a plug zip-tied somewhere(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S18BY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Also don't recommend buying a hitch from Amazon because of shady packaging. The packaging was exposing the hitch. I had to use my etrailer packaging to return the hitch because UPS wouldn't accept the packaging that Amazon shipped it in.

I'm a pretty dedicated biker, so having something easy to put the bike in and out was well worth the investment for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Kuat-Racks-Bike-Rack-Metallic/dp/B01G7PTMQ4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537223600&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=kuat+bike+rack&psc=1&smid=AY1YC2BWA3QO7
Highly recommended the Kuat racks.

Curt Manufacturing CURT 13127 Class 3 Trailer Hitch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLDSTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KhpNBbSMHBVK5

You need two people for the install but it’s super easy. There’s videos on YouTube for how to install it.

So I was looking at these on Amazon. How do these look?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018F421Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uIxKybJ19ZXB3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CLXR452/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_JJxKyb8AG1RF9

This one: ARB ARB705US 2-3/8" x 30' Recovery Strap - 17500 lbs Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9DQLC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_E2ARub1BTYR2T

Yeah, that one is a little expensive, but it seems like it's one of the best. This one is half the price, but it's a little short, so it might rub agains your bumper. I haven't installed my hitch yet, so I can't say for sure

edit: they do say "not for towing", so use it at your own risk haha

Here is the amazon link for the roof rack and extension

CURT 18115 Roof Rack Cargo Carrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O844DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_abVQlXXLpvsva

CURT 18117 Roof Rack Cargo Carrier Extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O844EM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_98O8EexwyeZvt

I pull my 25' (approx 4k-5k) with my Titan, all I use is a sway bar. My truck takes the weight pretty good, and handles the bumps well, but I do have a little bit of sway, hence the bar. I use this ball mount.

http://www.amazon.com/Curt-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/ref=sr_1_61?ie=UTF8&qid=1405294141&sr=8-61&keywords=ball+mount

This reminds me a little bit of a thing I got for loading my kayak. I keep it assembled, but it is two pieces held together by a cotter pin. Depending on how far this would stick out when driving, you might be able to do something similar so you can separate it into two pieces you can put in the back of your jeep. Just a thought.

I've seen this, but it's not that powerful. https://www.amazon.com/910500-Drill-Winch-500lb-capacity/dp/B00SF70SN4

Then there's this attachment to mount medium hitches to hitch ball. https://www.amazon.com/Superwinch-2060-Portable-pattern-capacity/dp/B001Q3E5W4

You could also look at mounting a hook into a hitch mount (http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/winches/hitch-receiver-mount-for-winches-69106.html) for the winch. I've found that the front hook off of a TJ Wrangler will fit inside the hitch mount. I have no idea what it's rated for, but my limited uses on trailers seems to be fine.

Also, don't use jumper cables... They make quick disconnects for the wiring that would be much safer.

no. the Golf/GTI is limited to a class 1 hitch.

BUT they make 1.25 > 2" adapters. super common.

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70032-inches-Hitch-Adaptor/dp/B008CE09N4/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1IKIE59PW6YY1&keywords=hitch+adapter+1+1%2F4+to+2+inch&qid=1574189278&s=automotive&sprefix=hitch+adapter+1%2Cautomotive%2C223&sr=1-5

you WOULD NOT want to do this if you were actually towing. you dont want to exceed the class I hitch ratings. but since this is just for a bike rack you'r well safe of that fact. just know, if you ever actually tow something, use the class I 1.25" hitch

Quick follow up.. I have 2 of these, could this work in place of an earthquake strap?

They are Maxtrax recovery mats to put under the wheels when stuck in sand/mud/snow, etc. Another great recovery option.

You should be fine towing with a cx5.

You can get a (class 3 hitch)[https://www.amazon.com/CURT-13127-Class-Trailer-Hitch/dp/B009GLDSTO] for $120.

That hitch has a 525lb tongue weight capacity, and a gross tow weight of 3,500lbs.

Your car has a max tow capacity of 2,000lbs.


Assuming you have two heavy supersports at 450lbs each on a 400lb trailer, you're still only at 1,300 lbs. Your car can handle that easily (though you might have to downshift a bit for hills).

Edit: Holy shit uhaul trailers are heavy as FUCK. Apparently they weigh 1200lbs.


Just remember that when towing, your maximum speed is 55mph, and you can only use the right two lanes on freeways - keep it slow and safe.