Best vibration isolation products according to redditors
We found 71 Reddit comments discussing the best vibration isolation products. We ranked the 25 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 71 Reddit comments discussing the best vibration isolation products. We ranked the 25 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
your wife is farting
j/k
probably a plumbing thing (vent pipe moving in the wind? water hammer situation?) . do you share a wall with anyone? is your bed on wood floors or carpet?
if your bed touches the wall, move it out. perhaps buy some rubber isolators for the feet:
https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4
Grab a small condensed foam footing pad from home depot or Lowes that they carry in the flooring section as you can cut it to size. Another option is casa pura Anti-Vibration Pad - Rubber Vibration Isolator Mat | Matting for Washing Machines, Washers, Dryers and Appliances | Multiple Thicknesses & Sizes | 1/4" Thick - 24" x 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DVFWTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B5w5CbGRG77RA
These might be of use:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1075
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1917
Sparkfun also sells an assortment of things:
https://www.sparkfun.com/categories/143
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9376
This combination might do the trick:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13879
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13329
Any of these will probably require you to write a GPIO interface program to get the data. You might also use this board: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13261 if you don't mind paying a little bit more to have a microcontroller interface between the Pi and the load cell
This tutorial may be of use:
https://tutorials-raspberrypi.com/digital-raspberry-pi-scale-weight-sensor-hx711/
https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Balance-Four-wire-Connecting-Weighing/dp/B00880RSTK/ (100g)
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminium-Rectangle-Kitchen-Weighing/dp/B019JM810A/ (300g)
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a14071900ux0078-Aluminum-Weighting-Sensor/dp/B00QC6M45A/ (1kg)
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Electronic-Balance-Weighing-Sensor/dp/B006W2IDUO/ (0-5kg)
Is it the raw seek noise of the drives that is annoying, or the seek noise amplified by the cabinet the NAS is sitting in?
I used to have a TiVo on top of an armoire in the bedroom that echoed through the wood.. one of those relatively cheap floor mats for fatigue (foam mats that interlock) solved the problem for me entirely.. You could still hear the seek in a silent room, but not with the TV on. I now have a similar problem with 3d printers upstairs from my bedroom.. these work wonderfully to isolate the vibrations away from the cabinet and keep the sound at bay: Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DK2JDbBSHP855
Something like this
This is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXWP4/
I cut it up into multiple pieces as that was easier than cutting exactly to fit. I didn't put anything under the Teensy microcontroller, because I thought that would put too much pressure on the Teensy.
I didn't have any problems getting the case back together.
depending on the keyboard you can fill it with foam or get sorbothane dampening mats like this. there are examples on youtube how it affects the sound of the kb. the biggest factor is the switch tough.
edit; just saw your flair. if this is about your realforce is the louder sound when you let go of a key?
If it was a piece of machinery I'd have gone for a foam pad like this. Ideally that's what you'd stick between the source of the vibration and the ground. But it should work for your bed.
You can get puck shaped rubber feet too.
Depending on the vibration you'll want a different hardness. As this is just transmitted vibrations, these may be a little stiff, but might be worth a go.
I can't really vouch for either of these items in particular. And they do seem to report a bit hit and miss with the reviews. I suppose the hard part will be making sure that your bed stays on top of them and doesn't crush the material they've made from.
Also, make sure you don't have the bed against the wall, because the vibrations will be transmitted up that too.
If you want a low tech solution, cut tennis balls in half and stuff them with a firm foam.
Used these levelling feet w/ rubber pad, the rubber was actually suprisingly grippy, they seemed kind of small (3/8 bolt and 1.5" pad), but larger ones get expensive quickly
http://www.amazon.com/Winco-6T75SA5-GV-Stainless-Leveling/dp/B00EI2315M
I use these in my apartment: https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4/
seems to work for my angry downstairs neighbor.
It would probably help to have it isolation mounted and in an enclosure. If you do build an enclosure you can further reduce the sound by lining it with something like Dynamat. Also look for threads on RV water pump silencing. Those may help.
These are the type of isolation mounts I am referring to; https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Vibration-Isolator-Mounts-Female/dp/B0734N6NC2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500848148&sr=8-4&keywords=water+pump+isolation+mount Similar devices come with some high end after market fuel pumps.
Yeah, but people use a lot of different materials to do so. One of the best or most popular ones I think is Sorbothane. You can get individual sheets of it on Amazon. You just have to cut it to fit the shape of your case.
These are some of the best types of mounts for noisy quads- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7E9C1W/
I have used them on a few 6500mpus with untunable twitches and they always solved the issue.
Edit: and I agree with the 6500 statement. I had a few that worked awesome. Although they had a higher noise floor they are definitely and improved more precise version of their predecessor the 6000mpu. It's too bad they got such a bad rap.
> So is it really worth your time to sit still for a good 5 minutes during a run to make sure you get every tag without ruining the device?
Why would I do that? Stash anything of real value in a faraday duffel bag (not even remotely a far fetched concept: seeing as how these already exist )
That said, stealing pistols and other random low value crap should not be worth the effort to drag out a big pile of shit out of the target area with the team, detag and fence it. The reputation system is the way to punish that IMO: Teams dumb enough to risk fucking up a run by looting everything in sight should acquire a bad rep/notoriety score quickly and soon have a hard time finding non-suicidal runs.
I'd say, in general looting should be reserved for things rare/unique that the players won't be able to get otherwise (or at least have a very hard time getting), or to reward the players with items of high value to fence or trade for favors (IE: High end cyberdecks, super forbidden weapons, etc) that they will need in the campaign. The GM should make it reasonably obvious that the thing is worth the effort and is worth looting.
Needless to say, looting ware should acquire the team a horrible rep immediately.
Unless your GM plays all his NPCs as super cheapskates and thinks that you should loot corpses to make up the difference (had to deal with this once, was super obnoxious, I blame it on the GM being an old school D&D super munchkin. The team had to loot corpses to make enough cash to keep up on rent, much less buy any upgrades, which it was hinted strongly we'd need for the upcoming missions).
As others said, vibration is the real issue.I made a platform with these: https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4 and some insulating panel from home depot and helped quite a lot with the vibration coming from my kickr.
edit: inflating -> insulating
Thanks, I did some research and they seem heavier-duty than the standard puzzle-piece mats I have. I wonder if they shed if you work out on them... regardless, I might go with this option plus the mini trampoline. Thanks!
Don't forget some sorbothane blocks to set it on. They reduce vibration transmitted to and through the floor by an amazing amount.
The PSU case needs some love, too. It's like Creality shopped around for the loudest fans it could find, and that's what shipped with the Ender. Anyway, these two things make the PSU much better: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384875 WellFan Noctua 60x25 remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389 WellFan PSU case mod and for fun https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987473 cause, well, just cause (60mm fan guard) oh, and the fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQMESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Heyyyyy, you've added a buck converter and have 12v now, time to change the main board fan! It's a noisy bugger too! It ends up being the same fan as what comes on the factory hotend cooler. Annoyinggggggggggg. Like a mosquito in my ear!!! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Noctua 40x10mm fans are bolt in replacements for both of those, if you don't want to change the hotend cooler. I could have used a 40x10 on the Hero Me cooler I used - but the 40x20 looks cooler.
This is the LED strip lighting I used, it was expensive though, and I'm sure you could find much less expensive alternatives. https://www.rpelectronics.com/55-7160w-0-led-strip-outdoor-ip65-white-1m.html (white and red! z-rail and top rail!)
I printed a handle, and really like it, but it won't work without some love. Instead of modifying the 3d model I'm probably just gonna heatgun it into the shape I need it to be. Currently, it hits the Y-axis rail. It's here, if you wanna take a stab at it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313306
The Z-axis stepper is by far the loudest - I'm going to try to see if I can make a damper work, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CL356J5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 ** disclaimer note: I haven't done this yet. I haven't received the dampers.
I printed a zillion links from this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 but didn't like the result after putting it all together. It motivated me to try and do something for cable management, though. I DID end up using a bunch of the start and end mounts, though, and cut off the link nubs. They worked super great for cable management.
I'm still not 100% happy with the cabling - I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074GZFYM1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23BY812APN9IU&psc=1 and will be trimming/cutting/hiding/wrapping them so it looks nicer. Don't get me wrong, it works fine the way it is, but I don't like that flat ribbon cable stuff. It's too... ugly. It's either these cables or I'm going to build my own, which I like doing anyway. This will be soon. I don't think it'll look much different, but I think individually wrapped cables running to the stepper motors would look cooler. More space-ship-ie.
There's probably more. For this list, there's another list like it of failed/ugly/discarded parts - it took some trial and error for sure. It's worth it though. I've actually printed more stuff for my printer than I have for projects I'm working on. 3d printing is so funny that way!
If you have questions, I'm happy to help :) I have pictures of all this if you need them. I haven't figured out imgur, but will add photos to this album as time goes on: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8.
-Tunder
PS. Man this is a really big post. I didn't realize I did so many things. Rabbit hole, this thing is.
get this
You can get little gel pads that stick onto the bottom of pedals and it keeps them from sliding around. here's some on amazon
Some pedals come with them. I know I've seen ones that were lower profile.
Try using some of these. Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S8XfAbH5554VM
Put one under each corner of the furnace where it sits on the trusses. You might need a total of six depending on how the AC coil is mounted.
Well it's not quiet to be honest but you'll have a hard time dampening the noise no matter how you go about it, I do recommend getting vibration dampening cube thingies (like this or maybe this) to put under your rig just so the noise won't travel into the floor which will make it exponentially louder. Those anti vibration things also help keep the vibration in the rig rather than dispersing it into your surrounding area.
As for structural integrity, I've had no issues. I got a tube of threadlocker in case the screws would vibrate loose but I haven't put it on yet and they are still as tight as the day I put them in so I wouldn't worry too much.
I learned about this stuff from another user. You may wanna buy something thicker but it works great. I love the case btw. Isolate It!: Sorbothane Acoustic & Vibration Damping Film 70 Duro (0.10 x 6 x 12in) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084EXWP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XWxEzb1JMVN91
Look up "speaker isolation pads". For example:
https://www.amazon.com/VIBRATION-ISOLATION-RIBBED-DAMPENING-QUANTITY/dp/B06XBQ1Q7P/
https://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Vibration-Isolation-Circular/dp/B0042U8P9C/
I bought some of these off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVEMLR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I cut them into four smaller 2"x2" squares and printed some feet for the bottom of the printer to hold them in place. My printer already sits on a solid 2" thick wood base but this helped cut the noise and noticeable vibrations transmitted through my enclosure.
I've got multiple Lux (V1s) that I use soft mounted, using these types of stand-offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7E9C1W
I doubt there will ever be a software fix for the lux v1 noise issues since the root issue is a hardware deficiency, though in my experience the board still flies great (YMMV depending upon motors, frame, how your fc is mounted, and tons of other factors).
This is what I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXWP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's actually a good idea. Put newspaper down and a sponge or two. I bought a nice plastic container on Amazon that has multiple latches. It was kind of pricey but it is what it is. I also bought some anti vibration pads for under the container. I've read that the vibrations from driving can really stress snakes out. I'll include the links below.
IRIS Weathertight Storage Box, 41 Quart Weathertight - Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IB0JCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VNvaAbT3RJ52R
Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OOvaAbF5QXAQW
It's not common practice, but it should be.
It won't help a modern flight computer all that much, but it'll help video a lot. Cut little discs of something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Vibration-Damping-Sheet/dp/B004LY8UTY/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1427644430&sr=8-22&keywords=sorbothane (It's costly, but you use barely any of it...) Be sure to use loctite on the motor threads and to compress the sorbothane SOME but not too much.
Basically, it's much better to isolate/damp vibration before it excites the rest of the frame, rather than try and keep it out of a couple of critical components (camera, flight board)... Especially the flight board: damping can be harmful, because the flight board itself can "bounce" in response to accelerations of the aircraft.
I've used a mixture of Silverstone silencing foam, and 0.125" Sorbothane (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019GBKKPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to fill mine, works very well.
You can even stick the sorbo to the underside of the plate in various places, in between the PCB and plate, to dampen and noise travelling though it.
Unfortunately I don't have a welder or much at my disposal because of where I live. Do you think using a swivel leveling mount with a threaded hole would work? Either of these two maybe.
https://www.amazon.com/Level-Diameter-Level-Mount-Threaded/dp/B0029MRUKK
https://www.amazon.com/Winco-6T75SA5-GV-Stainless-Leveling/dp/B00EI2315M/ref=pd_lpo_60_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VK3WQCC7QN4E1GQ48ZP
These work better than a mat. I just put them under main contact points of my trainer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVEMLR4/
Assuming the sensors take the same voltage and output in a similar range, there's no reason you couldn't hotwire it on the existing PCB. You might have to worry about mounting it securely if it has a different footprint though. If it has a different output range you'd have to modify the PCB to correct it. Personally I'd use an Arduino or similar just so I could fine-tune the sensor range, but you could probably get a working controller with the stock MCU if you aren't fussy about functionality.
The main advantage of using one of those sensor types is longevity: potentiometers rely on moving parts that make physical contact, and so suffer from wear over time. Hall Effect sensors work by detecting a magnetic field, and so don't wear down. I assume the same is true of optical and induction-based sensors. They are probably more accurate too, but thumbsticks are so small I doubt you'd notice.
The trouble is cost: pot-based thumbsticks are very cheap, but I'm having trouble finding Hall Effect thumbsticks that aren't prohibitively expensive. Hall Effect joysticks can be had for around £45, but that's a much larger sensor which wouldn't fit into a GC shell.
EDIT it seems you can buy Hall Effect sensors quite cheaply, so if you're willing to put in some work building your own stickboxes, PCB and programming an MCU to work with them you could build a controller with them for a reasonable price.
I think I know exactly what you are talking about. I have a roll in my toolbox for making intake and throttle body gaskets.
Keep it from scratching, yes. Keep it from vibrating, probably not.
Something like this would be about perfect, but I am sure you could find something much cheaper.
I would probably just go to the hardware store and look at something like garage door or regular door seal to find something with the right durometer (squishiness) rubber. Too soft and it will just squash flat and not do anything. Too stiff and it won't soak up much vibration.
1/8" would dampen a helluva lot of vibration, but 1/16" would probably do the trick too.
I am not sure, as I haven't tried either one, but I have ordered these for a similar issue. can't yet comment on how good they are, as they are still on their way to me. These appear more sophisticated, but as I said, I haven't yet tested them.
https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BVEMLR4&pd_rd_r=099c2662-e9de-11e8-8e2e-49ff07944d9e&pd_rd_w=GtOIO&pd_rd_wg=eekSs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=WA3WKQJD37F71YAJTE2G&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WA3WKQJD37F71YAJTE2G
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Moving your bed close to a support point (such as a structural wall) might reduce the vibrations you feel as well, as the vibrations will typically have the largest amplitude toward the center of the floor span. Finally, I suppose you could try also putting the anti-vibration pads under the posts of your bed. Unfortunately, it is impossible to guarantee that any of these steps will solve the issue, but they might be worth trying.
Probably something like this
Anything rubber would at the very least dampen the vibrations. Possibly even like a cork drink coaster or something like that.
You can even buy them from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/
Some of these anti vibration pads to make the printer quieter, cut up into smaller pieces. I haven't really noticed a big noise difference with these (the concrete blocks I added later made a much bigger difference) but I keep them on there anyways.
I would also suggest a damper on the Y-axis motor, that made a huge difference in noise and vibration.
So, I like to listen to music (loudly) in my car, but as I increase the volume, certain sub bass frequencies will begin rattling the items in my glove compartment. This obviously becomes a nuisance during my morning/evening commutes.
My proposed solution is to line the glove compartment with a material designed to absorb low frequency vibrations. After some googling, I found a material called Sorbothane, which many people use for dampening low frequency vibrations.
Questions:
Note: my car is a 2-year-leased 2016 Honda Accord Coupe, so extensive/invasive solutions are unfortunately a no-go. Additionally, it does not have an actual subwoofer, just standard built-in speakers with fairly decent low-frequency response.
Many thanks in advance to anyone who can steer me in the right direction. Also, apologies for the lengthy post. Just wanted to get everything explained properly.
Watch the extruder gear. If the sound is when it turns backwards, that's the retraction sound. Install a NEMA 17 stepper motor sound damper on the extruder motor. Might as well do the x,y at the same time. Only do z motors of you do a lot of z hopping on retraction
(5pack) NEMA 17 Steel & Rubber Stepper Motor Vibration Damper for CNC 3D Printer https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CL356J5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zehZCbXWMFNAY
Do you have it on a shitty particleboard table or similar? They transmit a lot of vibrations into the floor. I have a set of these under my MK3 and it made it even quieter:
https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP-4E-Eva-Anti-Vibration/dp/B008HQ2AAW
Yeah my motivation was storage. Sound dampening is a great idea! I stole the idea from someone on thingiverse who thought the same as you. They added vibration dampeners like the ones below, so I added them as well. I like to think it is quieter, which is why I am looking for something else to store underneath instead of replacing them with the original feet.
https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4?keywords=square+dampening&qid=1536604713&sr=8-15&ref=mp_s_a_1_15
https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_cp_1_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BVEMLR4&pd_rd_r=K7RAMWWPTQMWDQG4J2Y5&pd_rd_w=IO06O&pd_rd_wg=R53mt&psc=1&refRID=K7RAMWWPTQMWDQG4J2Y5
4" x 4" x 7/8" Anti-Vibration pads, Qty 4 in total
Helping a friend this weekend who has a Synology NAS Rackstation, approx size is 2U high, by 22" x 24"
For now, she will be placing it on top of an old, heavy wooden microwave cart (on the top).
It's a solid wood unit; but I wonder if adding the above 4"x4" anti-vibration pads placed in each corner would help the vibration/noise
She might be doing a small server rack; but that is long time away. /thanks for reading
I bought these anti vibration pads from Amazon.
Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9dFNAbVYKVG1H
I put them under each clever if the base. THEY ARE AMAZING. I can sometimes not even tell it's printing. I often find myself now checking to see if it's still for some reason. Before you could hear the vibrations through the walls in other rooms.
For the $10 they cost I would recommend them to everyone.
I'm planning on doing a motorcycle road trip and taking my dslr. The bouncing around will be prevented as I will strap it to either the rear seat or tank bag. But then that opens up the question of vibration.
Would THESE work if I lined the bottom of my bag with 4 (they are only 4" square) or is there something else someone can recommend?
https://www.amazon.com/Gwisdom-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B07FKD4FZD
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7ZH2LG/
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XRYC1M/
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179IODB2/
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPLV5K1/
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BC6WH7V/
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J9VGX54/
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3732669
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3705354
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2887348
Watch this video on inline SATA power cables:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls14BmwkeWg
If your PSU uses similar connectors what I'm suggesting is removing each cable, probably one at a time due to them being black and easily mixed up, and flipping it upside then reinserting it so your entire SATA power connection gets flipped the right way.
I can take photos of me flipping one over one wire at a time using a spare molex adapter like the guy in the video uses if you still can't figure out what I'm talking about.
If you wanted standoffs I'd recommend just anti vibration isolators with the same threading that you use to mount a HDD, the 4 piece M3 set would work well and give you 8mm of height off the floor of the case:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Vibration-Isolators-Absorber/dp/B07MFY9G8V
This: https://media.bahag.com/assets/resp_product/58/86/90588655_21550839.jpg
You can get those usually in hardware stores or where washing machines / dryers and so on are sold. A general "anti vibration mat".
Or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/casa-pura-Anti-Vibration-Vibration-Appliances/dp/B071DVFWTW
A set of stepper dampers will reduce the motor noise quite a bit.