Best wetaherproofing garage door seals according to redditors

Yes it will make a big difference.
If you don't want to get new doors you can get insulating blankets from the big box stores RONA, Home Depot or Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/Owens-Corning-500824-Insulation-Fiberglass-Insulates/dp/B002FR5QO6
Make sure the seals on the garage door work well or the wind blowing in will negate any improvement of the insulation.

It looks like the concrete was not properly sloped to drain the water.

The easiest fix I can think of would be to install a Trench Drain System at the lowest point, or in front of the door. You will have to rent a concrete saw and cut about a 5" wide channel from the door area to the edge of the concrete, install the trench drain and drain pipe, then lay new concrete to cover.

If the water in the area of the garage door is not too deep, you might stop the flow of water into the garage by installing a Garage Door Water Barrier. If there is too much water, go with the trench drain (they can be installed in series).

Edit: add remark.

http://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-500824-Insulation-Fiberglass-Insulates/dp/B002FR5QO6

but I just replaced my existing door with an insulated one (after it was hit by a visitor's car).

This. https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-500824-Garage-Insulation/dp/B002FR5QO6/

The previous owners of my house installed this and it clearly makes a large difference.

comes in swinging...or stripping, not sure

Eyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy! One piece doors suck. I have one and I hate it. Only reason I still have it is because my framing was an old carport and not up to code sooooo, what to do what to do.

This stuff may be your best bet. Secure it to the garage with glue or maybe sheet metal screws.

I was going to suggest This typical vinyl, but it wont work properly unless you attach it a way it's not typical application

Also, I'm I'm seeing that post correctly, you most likely will need to move it. Door appears to be 7' high, and if that's an actual 7' rail, your sectional wont fully open(guess would be 5ish feet). If you have more ceiling space on the other side of that beam, you could look into a high lift system. If you want it automated you could also look into a Jack shaft operator.

You could see about installing a larger seal like this if the concrete is indeed not level.

It was this stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002FR5QO6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1452312448&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=garage+insulation&dpPl=1&dpID=41HqS1xcJvL&ref=plSrch

Really wasn't that much of a difference, I actually expected it to be better for the price :(

If the garage is dry-walled you can cut 1" holes in the wall and have insulation blown in. You then patch the holes. Is the garage ceiling dry-walled? Is there a crawl space between it and the floor above? If you can fit into the space then you should find a way to lay proper insulation.

As for the garage door you should purchase a threshold that either attaches to the floor or the bottom of the door: EXAMPLE

Also look into purchasing insulation for the door. This product has great reviews: Reflectix

I used this product because I am cheap and have a four car garage with 16’x8’ garage doors, so I had to use three sets. Took me about five hours to install everything.

Had a similar apartment in Austin some time back. They don't really insulate those garages too much, so the first thing to do is insulate the garage door as much as you can. I used stuff like this in the past:

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-EPS-Matador-Insulation-Designed/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Garage+Door+Insulation&qid=1562622712&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Now, with that sealed up some more, the next recommendation makes sense. Get one of those rolling A/C units like this:

https://www.amazon.com/rolling-air-conditioner/s?k=rolling+air+conditioner

And I'd get some wood/ply to clamp into the bottom 6" of the garage door with a duct exit hole for the exhaust vent.

The only other reco - it will take a LOOOONG time to cool down from 140 to 80 out there, so if you can set a timer to cool it a few hours before your work time that would make it a lot more bearable.

it SUCKS to detail a car and drip salt water on it. Good luck.

I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.

Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.

Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.

Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.

Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.

As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.

In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.

As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the temperature extremes. during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.

edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.

Yeah, as long as the rail isn’t bent when the door is shut all the way. Otherwise maybe try this guy. Lowe’s sells it too, at least in my area.

Also consider adding a channel drain if the driveway slopes towards the garage when you redo it.

They also make thresholds you can put on the driveway to act as a water barrier.
https://www.amazon.com/GARRAG-Garage-Weather-Threshold-Bottom/dp/B07BMZ2Q7K/ref=asc_df_B07BMZ2Q7K/

They make panels specifically for this; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FR5QO6/ref=asc_df_B002FR5QO65102592/?

This is almost exactly the same size as my garage. We're closing on the house Tuesday and I'm already thinking about how to convert it into a man cave. This is a good post for your average joe's man cave. Yea, that Vinyl flooring would look good. Have you thought about insulating the garage door? I'm thinking about using this NASA insulation on mine.

here you go https://www.amazon.com/Garage-Door-Threshold-Seal-Improvements/dp/B018A1DYSU/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1517936385&sr=1-8&keywords=garage+door+seal

Let this and a chisel be the last things you have to go and collect.

I just did my 7x18 door this spring. I see others recommended hard foam insulation kits that only offer r-4. I bought a kit with fiberglas insulation with a vinyl facing that used fasteners to hold onto the door. Very easy to install and is r-8.

https://www.amazon.com/ADO-Products-GDIKS-Single-Insulation/dp/B0068RQG0M

I bought my kits in store for 50 ish bucks a piece.

This would keep the water from soaking the door:

https://www.amazon.com/Garage-Door-Flood-Barrier-1-5in/dp/B00BY2VDBI

But then you'd have to still get rid of the water somehow.

I just regularly shovel out the car poops and push out any water near the door. the floor is often damp but it rarely gets too crazy.

I used this on my board. I bought the 1/4" width and it's maybe a little tight. I'd buy a size up if I ever needed another roll. https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Aluminum-Textured-Finish-Length/dp/B0719R8H1R

The bottom seal on mine was giving me issues. Small amounts of water leaking under it, small critters etc. Not sure if you have a concrete floor but I put one of these down.

Sensible Solutions 3020 Storm Shield 20-Foot Garage Door Threshold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008YGQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KOZJBb3Z8CXV5

Would that help? Liquid nail it down. It's pretty thick

I installed this kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MI9NYK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) earlier last year... I agree that it's definitely better in the summer for reflecting the heat, and winter, while it would potentially help, would be more impacted by any gaps/spaces that would let the cold in. One additional thing you could do would be to put actual insulation between the door and the panels that are installed.

Someone also mentioned the noise benefits too, which I agree, and would add that it also dampens the sound of the door opening and closing a bit...

Christmas is coming. If anyone wants to buy POTUS a gift I suggest this as it helps avoid rain and drafts.

Something like this might help, it works a lot better than the foam strip stuff and conforms to larger gaps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WK5QNND

Oh, sure, sorry. It's these guys:
Matador Garage Door Insulation Kit, Designed for 7 Foot Tall Door up to 9 Feet Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XHBXAbB2WG63C

They thing I like about these vs foam board is these are created did you can flex them so they go in super easily.
And yeah, the one side is plastic, or something similar. Think it's just there to protect the foam a bit.
Each panel has insulation value of R4.8

Get a cheap thermo gun and test the walls, ceiling, and door seals for temp spikes. This will reveal air leaks and problem areas. I suspect your metal garage door is the biggest culprit of heat loss. This winter I installed an [insulation kit] (http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-EPS-S-GDIK001-Insulation-Universal/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398097268&sr=8-1&keywords=garage+door+insulation+panels) on my garage door and it kept my garage a few degrees warmer. I'd imagine this would help block out the Texas summer heat too.

Also killing your wallet is that visible gap in the weatherstripping. Get yourself one o' these bad boys and save some more money for your other dope hobbies. https://www.amazon.com/Duck-1402601-Double-Complete-2-Count/dp/B0040JH2AI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498621538&sr=1-1&keywords=door+gap+sealer

I'm not a shill, just an efficiency fanatic.

I have a hollowcore door for my bedroom, and I have a habit of getting rather loud while gaming at night. What would be the best way to go about making my room a little more soundproof? The walls aren't a big deal as there's a bathroom against the main wall of my room, so I'm just going to focus on the door. My current thoughts are buying something along the lines of [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3Y6QDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dcXyzbR9RSZYA) on and around the door itself, and one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JH2AI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5eXyzb32QAM17) to fill the gap under the door, but would like some advice on it.

My mining room in the basement stays cold af. I keep the small window open and the door closed. I use one of those temporary door sealers to keep the cold air in the room and not in the rest of my basement. My 1080 Tis run full blast and never get over about 60 degrees.

Thanks. Do you have a link to the kit you used? I was looking at this also to save money.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FR5QO6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Yup, here it is.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JDJQ8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What about putting something like this around the car area ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XQATJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ESSYDbH20VY49

water is actually running under the siding which has caused quite a bit of damage to the plywood, so i guess it's technically flooding the garage.

I just finally got an inlaw to move their car out of the garage so I'm able to fix the issues with it.

While my door has a moisture issue as well, it's not as bad. I'm looking at this product for the door. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XQATJ8/?coliid=I2IQV9JUA5XFXY&colid=1M2CE0RY6DZQD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

For the sidewalls, I Just found these so I'm going to look up the specs on their material as they may work well for adhering to the bottom of my siding.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-8-in-x-17-ft-All-Climate-P-Strip-Weather-Stripping-02550/100353488