Reddit Reddit reviews Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

We found 188 Reddit comments about Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Soldering Stations
Soldering & Brazing Equipment
Welding & Soldering
Tools & Home Improvement
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station
High performance analog soldering station produces up to 900° F to handle many soldering projectsVariable power control dial adjusts power from 5 watts to 40 watts for accuracyQuality, lightweight pencil iron with cushioned foam grip provides extended comfort during long term soldering projectsIncludes: a Weller certified ST3 iron plated tip for long life and consistent performance, a built in soldering holder to safely rest your pencil, and a cleaning sponge to remove unwanted residue from soldering for next time useUL Listed: Tested and meets independent safety standards
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188 Reddit comments about Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station:

u/Duderocks18 · 26 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.

As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

u/ThunderFalcon_3000 · 9 pointsr/AskElectronics

This Weller has served me well. Although it takes some getting used to. Just check out some vids on proper operation.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/capitantortuga · 8 pointsr/electronics

If youre thinking of buying that, dont waste your money, its a POS. I would recommend this station, good quality brand, relatively cheap and has some heat settings, doesnt give temperature, but its better than no control at all. Also the tips are pretty easily found.

u/Jetcar · 7 pointsr/DIY_tech

It's better to have one that has a controllable temperature setting. But then you have to know when to use what temperature. And they are expensive, but usually comes with a stand and sponge.

If you get a cheap one you will be fine while learning how to solder. The tips are really bad quality and doesn't heat evenly all the way around and you should have some sandpaper close to give it a good scrubbing between uses.

Sorry, on mobile and I don't know how to edit the links without the editor help...

u/Se7enLC · 7 pointsr/arduino

I've gone through about a half a dozen of the $5-$15 radio shack irons before I finally decided to spend the money on a nice one. I had no idea what I was missing!

There are a few types. The cheapest one is just a hot pencil. You plug it in and it gets hot. It's not adjustable at all - it just gets up to whatever level of power it draws, regardless of the work it's doing. Typically they cycle between not-hot-enough and way-too-hot for whatever the job is. :-)

The second-cheapest kind is the same thing, but with a little selector switch, so you can switch between low and high. I think one of mine was 5W/15W. Same as before - it's a power level, not a temperature.

Third type is the same thing, but with more adjustments. You can vary the heat more accurately, but it's still only by power level, not actual temperature.

The good kind is the kind that measures its own temperature and tries to maintain it. You can turn the dial to the temperature you want, and no matter what the work is, it will heat up as needed to maintain that temperature.

I have the WESD51 (Digital display, adjustable temperature). It was expensive, but I got a good deal on it (only $10 or so more than the analog version). I was really sold on the temperature controls, and it makes a huge difference.

You'll have to carefully read specs to see if "Adjustable" means adjustable POWER or adjustable TEMPERATURE. Some irons will even say that they are adjustable temperature, but really they are just a hot-cold knob that adjusts power.

I shouldn't recommend a specific iron, since the only ones I've used are the terrible $5 ones and the WESD51, but I've heard good things about the WCL100. It seems to have decent reviews. If you can't justify the $80+ for a temperature-controlled iron like the WES51 or WESD51, look into this one, since it's only $40.

EDIT: I take that back! I should have listened to myself and NOT recommended it. As soon as I read the reviews I discovered that you can get a constant-temperature iron for around the same price! Something like This 850F or this 750F. In short - do your research! Temperature controlled is key!

ANOTHER EDIT: The work I'm doing is generally through-hole components and similar small electronics. I leave the temperature dial at around 700F most of the time. So if $80 for a true adjustable-temperature soldering station is too much to swallow, save money by getting a constant-temperature iron at the temperature you want, instead of getting a shitty adjustable-wattage iron.

u/Highfro · 7 pointsr/Gameboy

This one is probably the cheapest one I'd recommend

u/Cardagain · 7 pointsr/electronics

This is what we have around the house/lab. It works well, and offers variable heat control, which is handy. It comes with tips that are pre-tinned, which makes it much easier to keep them tinned.

I'm sure you've thought of it, but just in case, make sure your solder is lead-free. Also, the lower temp stuff works better for PCB work. If you do get the Weller iron I linked to, 50% heat should be more than enough for PCBs.

u/milsman2 · 7 pointsr/Music

There are only handful of soldering irons that are the tried and true. Never buy from Radio Shack.

That bad boy will last you your whole lifetime and I've had a NASA engineer swear by it as it is what he uses at home.

u/clown_world_ · 6 pointsr/synthesizers

There are plenty of youtubes that give good instruction, it's very simple to get started. Most common mistake people new to it make is thinking about it like the solder tip is used to paint the solder on the components, when it is just used to heat up the components so the solder will flow into/onto them once they get up to heat. Solder will flow to areas above its melting temp, so you heat the components with the tip, and dab the solder wire at the junction of the components, the solder will flow to these hot areas, then you just want enough heat in the area so when it cools, it doesn't cool too unevenly which can lead to cold solder joints, but you don't want enough heat that you damage the components. For most applications I usually touch the tip to the area for 1-3 seconds, dab the solder on with the tip still on the area, remove the solder and then let the iron sit for another second (with a 40 watt iron set at about 85%). Other times you will require more time as the component will act like a heat sink and take longer to bring up to the temp where solder will melt and adhere, like the back of potentiometers for grounds or amp chassis for grounds. For removing solder, use some Chemtronics solder wick, which is thinly braided wire which you can heat on the component and the solder will run up into the wick through capillary action.
This is probably the most widely used soldering station, it's relatively inexpensive and fine for most applications, I've built multiple tube amps, done a lot of tube amp maintenance, and built around 50 or so guitar pedals with it.

u/georgetd · 6 pointsr/Luthier

You do not need, and probably do not want a top tier soldering iron for working on a guitar. The big gains on expensive soldering irons are digitally controlled temperature, faster heat up, more tip options, and a lot of extra cost.

The orange Weller is $40, and does everything you could want for working on a guitar.

u/marklein · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

Keep in mind that some of the people in this sub are professionals and they are only going to suggest pro gear. And while I agree with them that a really great iron is a great idea, you can get away with something cheaper than $100 and still get great results.

The iron you posted is probably crap considering how cheap it is. That same iron direct from China is like $5, so that will tell you something. If I can suggest something in between a Hakko and the toy, I've used this iron regularly for years:

u/adjentlehug · 5 pointsr/Gameboy

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

I bought this one about a year and half ago and it's been great to me. Just make sure you get a fine point tip for it.

u/spadge67 · 5 pointsr/DIY

This Weller is what you want. Don't mess around with a junky one. Get the real deal first time around.

u/Insanereindeer · 5 pointsr/AskEngineers

Doesn't have a heat gun. Just buy a small heat gun separate if you want one.

Budget one.


You listed a lot of garbage chinese garbage. They may last years. They may die directly out of warranty.

As for all the other items, you should buy whatever you feel you need to be safe. A fire extinguisher is a must for any residence but soldering probably isn't going to be the reason a fire is started.


I have a $30 30W Weller that I've been using for YEARS. I've left it on for hours accidentally. I've only replaced the tip once in the years I've owned it.

u/Hellspark08 · 5 pointsr/diypedals

This is what I use.

It isn't the cheapest adjustable station out there, but it seems to be good quality. I've had a handful of cheap irons over the years, and I wish I had just started with something like this.

Edit: Fixed my link.

u/w-e-f-u-n-k · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Nice! It is rewarding knowing that you can repair and modify your guitar's wiring as you please, just gotta break the seal and do it that first time. As with anything, practice makes perfect. My solder jobs looked pretty terrible and messy the first several times I tried it, but the more I do it the cleaner and more professional they look. Youtube instruction videos are super helpful as well, and having a decent iron that's at least 40 watts makes things much easier (doesn't have to be too expensive, I use one of these and am very happy with it).

Also, Seth Lovers are a great call. I have them in my Les Paul and they're the definition of the classic PAF sound, lots of snap and clarity but also totally lush and warm and punchy. Perfect for pretty much anything short of metal imo.

u/burkholderia · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Get this one. 40 watts with adjustable level control. $40. A well known and reliable brand. I've had mine for years and it's been great. I would also suggest getting a few different sized tips for different projects. I almost always use the really thin pointy tip for greater control, but the wide blade tip that comes with this can be useful for things that require a lot of heat (desoldering chassis mounted cap cans for example).

u/jchan94 · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not sure about that one. Personally, I'd recommend this one. It has a station, where the one you linked is in a case. I don't really ever see a soldering iron being put into a case.

u/murdurturtle · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First.. what soldering iron are you using? Looks like it's not getting hot enough and the solder isn't getting up to temperature.

If you plan on soldering more maybe invest in something like this.. I've been using one for years and it's a wonderful soldering station. The cheapo walmart irons are usually not good at all.. even now being much better at soldering I still can't use one of those.

This is also a good starter setup.

u/AnalogKid2112 · 4 pointsr/EngineeringStudents
u/ColinWalin · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I started out with this one.

ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers

The ferrule to tighten down the tips I accidentally screwed sideways and stripped the threads. So I can't use it anymore.

I upgraded to this and like it a lot. The only thing that stinks is you would have to buy a separate solder sucker.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

I have this one now and I really like it a lot. I also use 60/40 solder. I hear people rant and rave about 63/37. Either way.

u/ChucklingKumquat · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I am using this currently but this is coming in the mail tomorrow ;) along with some more lube and solder.

Edit: I have built all of my boards with the Weller without any issues. I also have a desoldering iron which is 10x better than the pump. If you ever plan on desoldering pick yourself up the desoldering iron for the extra 10 bucks. The solder pumps will break and you will end up spending that much on them anyways so its definitely worth it.

u/johuesos · 4 pointsr/electronics

It depends what you are working on, but if you are working on through-hole and SMT in the under $40 price range I'd go with a Weller WLC100. It was my first iron and I used it for a long time before I finally upgraded (I still use it sometimes).

The stock tip was a little big for my taste so I bought a replacement (ST7) tip. The ST7 is a smaller conical tip. You can also find these on Amazon, but pay attention to the shipping if you order it off Amazon Marketplace, some 3rd party tool vendors will gouge you!

For the Fume extraction you should buy a fume extractor... heh. Pretty simple. I built my first fume extractor from an old PC power supply, an old exhaust fan, an articulating lamp base, some activated charcoal pads, and a length of dryer hose.

You can certainly go that route and build your own. It's nice if you already have the parts on hand, but eventually it became too unwieldy so I bought a Weller Fume Extractor. You can buy something similar for about half the price on Marlin P. Jones, but I was never able to catch them in stock.

Either way, look around, have fun, and good luck!

u/niandra3 · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

u/some1inmydictionary · 3 pointsr/SXSW

if you still need to get an iron, i suggest one of these: you can buy them at Altex on I35. but like the other person said, if you just need to solder one thing, SXSW Create (where the maker booth is) is free, and full of soldering irons. Opens at 11 tomorrow morning.

u/Cold_Irons_Bound · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

I’m using this one.

u/joeyfettuccine · 3 pointsr/modular

There's tons of tutorials online if you really want to learn how to solder. Bear in mind that (like a lot of things) good soldering is the result of decent tools but mostly a bit of practice. It's not a difficult skill to learn, though.

Some tips off the top of my head:

Buy a decent iron if this is something you want to spend more than a few hours on. Something that can get hot enough so it doesn't wimp out soldering heavy ground connections, terminal strips etc. Don't crank up the heat too much if you're just soldering small components, but don't be a pussy with the heat dial if shit isn't melting fast enough for your liking.

This is possibly my favorite tool I've ever owned. It's more expensive than those small, flimsy solder suckers but it's much more effective and will last forever. Don't dick around with desoldering braid/wicks if you don't have to. IME they aren't very effective, are hard to use, and heat up the board/components too much. For certain applications (maybe surface mount) it can be handy but with through-hole components a spring loaded solder sucker like the Soldapullt is king.

Use rosin core solder, and don't use lead free solder if you're in the US. Lead free solder is a bit more difficult to use.

...that's it for now. Have fun.

u/shiekhgray · 3 pointsr/diypedals

I just had a similar misshap! How weird. I got lucky since the model name and number were written on the soldering iron itself so I could get a new one cheaply. You need a new "Soldering Iron" not a new "Soldering Station" I believe. You can plug a really simple iron into a very nice station and have all the benefits of the station temp controller and so on, I think. I've got a WLC100 and the replacement soldering iron is called the SPG40

u/smithincanton · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

There are nicer soldering irons out there but I bare minimum would be Weller WLC100

u/sr65k · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

I have several that I use. My standard is a Weller WLC 100 that I have been using for the last 10 years. I have built and repaired several amps with this iron.

u/chingwo · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

Also had to get a fine tip from HHL

u/SearingPhoenix · 3 pointsr/Nerf

That stand type, which I've used, is pretty useless. I would personally recommend the classic 40W Weller station

u/royaltrux · 3 pointsr/arduino

I'm happy with this one:

In between cheap and expensive. I did need to buy a thinner (sharper?) tip for soldering small electronic stuff.

u/engimaneer · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'm excited to see what others recommend. I'm a mech e and only solder about once a week max, usually as a hobbyist on a budget, so at home I have the Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station which i consider a great value for a reliable entry level unit, and freed up money to spend on other related equipment that is more important to me, like high quality helping hands, decent solder sucker, solder tips, that wire sponge tip cleaner doodad, a rubber mat, nice fan, and even good wire and proto boards. I don't use the heat gun on a regular basis, but the unit at work is a 852D 2 in 1 combo unit and I don't like how much desk space it takes up, so I prefer a separate mid tier or even chepo heat gun, since I rarely use it. Grain of salt, I only use it for melting adhesive or shrinking wrap or random stuff, so I defer to others for good heat gun advice more in line with your use case.
edit: updated the part number for the 2 in 1

u/pepperell · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

At home, I've been using my Weller WLC100 for 10 years now. I can solder down to 0.65mm pitch pretty reliably. You just gotta find that sweet spot with the temperature knob. For me its like 3.25. If you want to solder that fine of a pitch, you'll need a magnifier of some sort though. It'll make it way easier

$40, tips extra

I mainly use this tip

u/trustifarian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Easier and probably cheaper to replace the board. You can get a [Masterkeys Pro L RGB with blues for $120] ( or the Pro S TKL for $100.

Your other option is to buy a soldering iron, a desoldering pump, some switches to replace your browns, pray to whatever deity you believe in so that you don't damage the pcb when you remove the old switches. You'd also need to desolder the LEDs and resolder them once you have replaced the switches. IF your soldering skills aren't up to snuff you can damage the board beyond repair.

u/poochzag · 3 pointsr/headphones

I got this one as my first and only solder station and it's worked out great for making cables and such. It's not temperature controlled (but does have a temperature knob) but as I understand it you don't really need that unless you're doing more complex stuff.

I also got a narrower tip on eBay for about 5 bucks, but really only needed that for the Hifiman SMC connectors, I got by with everything else fine with the stock tip

u/fukitol- · 3 pointsr/soldering

If you can up your price range a bit I've got this iron and rather like it.

But if you're willing to spend $100 the difference in performance is incredible.

u/Kuryaka · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Good quality as in: Will work for Nerf stuff for a while, or solid build quality where you won't have to replace it often?

If you want to go for something that's no-worries and will probably last for the foreseeable future, the Hakko FX888 is SOLID.

Anything else I'd consider "nice" would have to have a soldering iron holder and temperature control that I trust. Very nice features, because if you leave the iron sitting for a while and don't tin the tip, the heat will start to oxidize/damage the finish of the tip and become unusable. This can also happen on any iron if you leave it running hot for a while, but something that's temperature-controlled rather than with an arbitrary power knob will keep your iron tip intact much longer.

Mid-tier would be something with variable power control but not temp control. You might be able to get away with lowering the power while you work instead of turning it off.

The "Amazon Special" that UNW1 linked is a fantastic soldering iron for the price, plenty of power whereas other cheap irons won't heat up quickly enough. I'd recommend it for most people starting out, since it's great for learning the basics + soldering iron care. There is practically no temperature control on the thing though. I turned it way down to minimum (Claimed 200-250C, which is nowhere near hot enough to melt solder) and it still threatened to overheat.

I've heard of irons that are even better than the Hakko/similar models in terms of where the heating element's located, other features... but I don't have much expertise in the field and haven't seen a need for those. As far as I'm concerned, $100 is as high as you need to go for now, and $50 can probably get you set up with a solid iron.

u/samuri1030 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Everyone here is recommending you buy a soldering station - which is 3 times the cost of the full kit you linked which is absurd. The Hakko 888 is fantastic, but not what should be recommended in this scenario.


Honestly what you linked is likely crap and will probably frustrate you away from the hobby. If you get something with easy-to-buy interchangeable tips, it will help you a lot. Something like: may be a bit better of a deal and will be fine for learning. Also grab yourself some well-reviewed solder (rosin-core is fine), a cheap solder wick, cheap solder sucker, and a flux pen (flux will only be necessary if you are re-working - something you may do a lot when you start).


If you are looking for a cheap multimeter as well, anything will likely be good enough. Buy whatever has a feature set you think you need. Just note, that I wouldn't recommend measuring anything like mains AC with a cheap meter. Stick to low voltage ( < 50V) DC and you'l be fine. One of my favorite meters is the VC921 pocket DMM. It can be had for ~$10 and is accurate enough for me with a good feature set. Just note that it doesn't do current measurements. If you think you may get into electronics long term I recommend investing a nice meter. Fluke is the go-to brand-name, but there are many who will work just as well. Fluke 101 is ~$40 and will do everything besides current readings. If you want current, I recommend stepping up to the Fluke 107.


Also not a fan of all of the tools in that kit you linked. A lot seem un-necessary or extra cheap. These are expensive, but Adafruit and Sparkfun are great and reliable sources for hobbyists and have similar kits:


u/DarkStar851 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, it'll require soldering. You can get away with something relatively cheap, but if you want good results I wouldn't really recommend anything <$40. I've heard good things about this soldering station but I have no idea what the 1-5 adjustments actually correspond to for temperature.

If you'd rather, I'm offering free assembly services right now, but it really doesn't look like a hard board to work with. I'd say it's a good beginner project.

u/greenlambda · 2 pointsr/ECE

It may also be worth it to buy some of the tools you might need for personal use. Things have gotten a lot cheaper in the past 10 years with everything becoming integrated, so very basic and slow speed oscilloscopes etc can be bought. Here are some cool things you might be able to afford:

Oscilloscope/Logic Analyzer/Waveform Generator:

Much Much Nicer (and way more expensive) version of the above:

Basic soldering iron (I use this a lot even to do surface mount):

Cheap place to make circuit boards:

Lots of parts and parts kits:

Being able to design and build your own project, completely self directed is a great feeling. There are a ton of resources out there to help. It will definitely be a lot of trial and error because no one will be helping or looking over your shoulder, but I think that makes it more fun!

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'd suggest:

Plus a smaller tip:

Weller is a highly trusted brand and buying a variable one means you'll likely never need another soldering iron for any job.

Other items:

Solder itself

In case you mess up:

Either a solder sucker

or solder wick

Nice but not needed(since that iron comes with a sponge):

u/CynicalTree · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Below $50? Get a Weller

Closer to $100? Hakko FX888D is hard to beat. This model is the one I use - Never had any issues with it. I don't know if it's changed over the years, main downside to this model was it needs an admin card inserted to change the temperature. Kinda annoying if you can't find the card.

Comes with a nice tip + sponge though and the holder is pretty solid too. It's mostly just a QOL difference though, I doubt you'd notice a significant difference in performance unless you're quite experienced.

u/Kryzm · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics
u/eccentricworkshop · 2 pointsr/soldering

It sounds like the tip is oxidized and needs cleaned and tinned. Follow some videos on YouTube about cleaning and tinning a tip. Also, make sure you are using solder with a flux core in it as it will work much better than a solid solder wire.

Are you soldering correctly? The only time you should be melting solder onto the tip itself is before you set it down, some desolder work, and soldering with flux added. You should be applying the tip to the pad/component lead joint and putting solder into the joint directly.

A soldering gun is generally not appropriate for electronics work unless you are working with high thermal mass parts (large connectors, lugs, etc).

I'd suggest picking up the Hakko FX-888D as it is a cheap temperature controlled station and you'll get better results quicker than with a cheap iron. You certainly can go with a cheaper Weller station but you may end up fighting with it a bit if you move beyond very basic work. For solder, stick with leaded 60/40 or 63/37 as it will flow out easier and at a lower temperature. Don't forget some solder wick/desoldering braid if you will need to remove components and clean up work.

u/Natemiester · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're only doing the occasional soldering then this will be perfectly sufficient for your needs, though I'd recommend buying a pencil tip for it, to replace its stock flat tip.

u/zeroair · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I want this one.

I won't say it's simply because it's orange.

Ok it's simply because it's orange. (Also the one I have and like is a Weller. Old Weller I call it. Saved me from a bear attack, that one.)

u/cacraw · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

You don't need to spend a lot, but you do need something better than a $7.99 special. I use this with a fine point tip that I picked up locally. It takes practice to solder to those tiny pins, but it can be done. Get a decent iron, some flux, a brass ball cleaner, and some leaded solder. Watch youtube videos, and practice on old electronics.

The electrons don't care where on the trace that you do it, but the closer you are to components, and the skinnier the trace, the more likely you are to screw something up with too much heat.

I have done the mod you are trying to my 9x, and it really improves the radio. I've since bought a 9xR, and use the 9x as a trainer.

u/Turquoise_HexagonSun · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

It’s excellent advice, I’d just tell you to skip the single wattage iron and go right for this Weller station.

If you’re patient you can get it for $25 to $30 on sale.

I went from a RadioShack pen to a Weller pen, to a parts express soldering station and finally to this Weller station and wished I had skipped everything before it.

I use it to solder everything from electrolytic caps and batteries in consoles to super tiny ceramic capacitors like C11 on the SNES jr for the anti-ghosting fix.

A quality iron is worth it right from the start.

u/vilagefool · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

honorable mention Weller WLC1000 that usually gets overlooked. Great starter iron that is cheap and you can replace the heads (I usually use ST7 tips because they're really fine).

u/Wookiees_uncle · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

This toolkit would have everything you would ever need...including triwing and Gamebit screw driver bits.

Thisa popular soldering iron. I use it myself and it hasn’t let me down. Just get some wire, flux, and solder and you’re set.

Edit: fixed the link lol

u/refactor_music · 2 pointsr/synthdiy

I use this Weller Soldering Station. Weller's are pretty tried and true but are not top of the line. But for synth DIY, I find this station more than capable and a good deal too.

u/lord_derpshire · 2 pointsr/soldering

I'd put this one in the not horrible but leaving something to be desired but very good for the deal category

u/ridcullylives · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You don't need anything fancy. Would suggest getting a soldering station, as it makes things easier.

Weller and Hakko are both well-known brands. Maybe something like this, which seems to get decent reviews? Might want to get a couple of different tips.

u/techyg · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

A good quality soldering iron will ensure that you can get the solder hot enough to make good joints. A soldering iron that does 40 watts is recommended. I started out with a Weller WLC-100, ($40) but am now using an 898D ($70-100) soldering / rework station which uses the Hakko tips (much cheaper than weller tips). The Weller worked pretty well, but the 898D can get hotter and has a digital temperature control. I use a small needle tip, but some people prefer a bit larger tip because you can get better heat transfer.

Use 60/40 rosin core solder, which works great for electronics and RC, and flows very well. You may also want to get some solder paste (flux) which will also help flow the solder and go where you want it to. Usually a solder diameter around .03 inch is good. I use this solder from Radioshack.

u/wtfisthisnoise · 2 pointsr/fixit

Solder's closer to $10 a roll, but I get it at the rat shack. I first started out with a $15 dollar soldering iron and it just had bad temp control. The cheapest I'd recommend is this one by Weller. It's the same wattage as the one without the stand that normally goes for 20, but this was just much easier to work with, and that's something I'd recommend for a beginner.

You're right that a cheaper soldering iron would be okay for this project, but it's not something I would use consistently, so it doesn't seem like a good value.

u/pk386 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have one of these it's a good iron. used it until my company was throwing out some old HAKKO's and got one for free! ^_^

u/Paradigmkick · 2 pointsr/arduino

Hello, and thanks for the info!

I want to make something that moves and can keep a kitten busy. Either something that rolls around the floor or a fishing pole/crane contraption that responds to a bite.
I do not have a multimeter. I have a weller WLC100 40 watt.
As far as components go, I have only junk electronics.

u/bullterriercuddles · 2 pointsr/rccars

I have a Weller WLC100 and a pair of helping hands. Works perfectly fine.

u/domesticpig · 2 pointsr/arduino
u/alexmrb · 2 pointsr/SynthRepairs

I use something very similar to this, except it's 30 watts:

That's probably the cheapest thing you'll find. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're going to solder once or twice a year. Believe me-it's a pain to do anything with an iron this cheap, and I'm getting a new one to replace it. I'm tired of buying extra-cheap stuff.

I've used this before, and it's actually not too bad in my opinion:

For $40, these two stations look pretty enticing:

Disclaimer- I have never repaired a synth before.

u/Dartmuthia · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have this one, and I'm pretty happy with it. Seems to fit your criteria:

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/covah901 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this: Weller

And I've achieved this:

These are just what are on my desk right now.

u/Devils_halo2k · 2 pointsr/techsupport

this isn't the best one ever, as a starter unit its solid, he will have to upgrade the tips, and someday the unit, but not really replace, sometimes this may be all he needs, sometimes he may need more power.

after this they vary in price.

u/Nizzzlle · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Berzerker7 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

So here's all the parts you need.

Maxipad -

Diodes - (I'd just buy a roll of 100, they're $0.019 each at that point)

Switches -

Teensy (your controller) -

Plates you'll have to find somewhere, but there are some on here that can make them for you. I have the DXF I used here that you can share with someone who can make the plates for you, it'll end up coming out looking like this if you use those (material and color are your choice, those are clear acrylic).

You'll also I guess need an iron, but that can be seen as an investment into multiple boards, rather than just this one. Best bang for your buck is going to be this one.

Soldering through-hole diodes is easy, and the Teensy comes with header pins that you use to solder it.

Important note: Solder the switches and diodes before the Teensy, as you can see that the area covers some of the switch headers. :)

I can help you along the way with any issues, so let me know if you need any help.

u/Gromann · 2 pointsr/gaming

If the 888d is outside your budget WLC100.

I know the hakko is nicer but I've used this thing for everything from power tool battery repair to cell phone charging ports. Either way you'll need desoldering tools as well, a variety of tips would be a good idea too.

Don't forget some 63/37, lead free solder is shit.

u/MrCrono666 · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

Hey! Glad to help. This Is the exact soldering iron I use. Extremely effective, I keep it at a 3 at all times, seems to be a legit temperature for everything Gameboy related.

The Solder I use works really well, rarely sticks to the soldering tip (like many other ones I've tried) and seems to be the most consistent. It's also supported by HHL - so you know it's solid!

Hope that helps.

u/Potatoes55 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I also recently got into the hobby and I use this Weller WLC100 it's got a small chisel tip but it's pretty good

u/MAGlCK · 2 pointsr/DIY

TL;DR - I didn’t mean to write an essay, so I’ll start with this: Get a multimeter and a decent soldering iron. If you have time, want free components, and wish to practice desoldering, find some scrap electronics and start collecting (please recycle the remnants). Check SparkFun, eBay, or Google for bulk supplies of components as it might be cheaper that way, and you get only what you need. Otherwise, buy a kit. A decent kid’s one should do fine (recycle the book if it comes with one and it’s too basic for you).

It seems like your book is from the early 2000s and is biased towards analog circuits. I hate to break it to you that those days are over now that almost everything has moved towards surface-mounting on printed circuit boards (PCBs), and you'll find it's cheaper (time- and money-wise) to replace entire units than actually troubleshooting individual almost-microscopic components.

With that being said, I still found it useful to learn how to troubleshoot analog circuits to solidify my understanding of electronic circuitry in general and for my DIY projects, such as: fixing faulty wires/cables, making my own phone chargers, powering a bathroom scale with an old cell phone to make it rechargeable, replacing faulty components on / adding computer fans to power inverters, and most recently, re-soldering a problematic switch on the circuit board for a stove hood (would've been $50 for replacement board).

I only use a free multimeter (from Harbor Freights with any purchase) and would at the very minimal recommend that, but you should note that measuring a circuit does in fact change the circuit and if input impedance of the meter is not high enough (cheap meters like this one) compared to the impedance of the circuit being measured, you can get useless readings.

I would also recommend getting a decent soldering iron. I've had bad experiences with melting tips on the cheap ones, but have been going strong with my current station (an older version of this) with an off switch and varying levels of temperature (on my model, it heats to a certain point and waits until it drops to a certain point before re-heating it back to the level set like a conventional oven, but none of my projects require anything fancier than that).

I don't own an oscilloscope since my projects do not deal much with wavelengths, signals or latching. I would go to the nearby community college where I have taken classes before and ask to use one of their high-quality ones if I really needed it. I have never personally tested the handheld ones for under $100, but I have worked with someone who designs custom electronics for clients and swears by one. On the other hand, I've heard some negative reviews that the bandwidth/resolution of the the cheap scopes are impractical for many of today's circuits. You can make a "poor man's scope" by using a sound card and a modified 3.5mm audio cable if you really needed a basic one!

I haven't touched a function generator since I had to troubleshoot an old AM/FM transceiver in an electronics troubleshooting course.

u/jedimasterben128 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Ok, so there are a lot of things I'd probably change :)


Motors - SabotageRC Booty 2306-2300kV, they're cheaper and significantly higher quality than the DYS you're looking at (they are made by DYS, as well, but with much higher quality components and build quality)


ESC - beware Racerstar. Some things they OEM and you get a good product for a good price, but others you get significant drops in quality. I would pay a few cents more apiece and get Spedix ES-20 Lite ESCs.


VTX - the one you selected is decent, but your soldering skills need to be up to par, the wires come undone from the VTX extremely easily and are incredibly difficult to reattach. I would recommend a few dollars more to get an AKK VTX with either larger pads or a connector.


VTX antennas - There are better ones out there. Lumenier Axii is one of the best and most durable (and significantly lighter), pagoda antennas being slightly better in some regards but more fragile.


Radio - The Turnigy Evolution is about the same price now and is a better choice than the FS-i6. Still uses the Flysky AFHDS2A protocol, so it will work with the receiver you selected (and there are now others that are good, as well). If the phonebook style radio appeals to you, then the i6 is the only cheap choice, but keep in mind it is a CHEAP radio, not an inexpensive one.


Wire - I would suggest ordering some 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 gauge wire from Hobbyking (as much as they suck, they're the only place that sells lengths of wire inexpensively). Getting 1m of each wire in both black and red should only be 10-15 bucks IIRC.


Power supply for charger - get a supply that is at least 19v and 200 watts, like this: it is a few dollars more, but you can also run your charger at its full output, which will come in handy for charging your batteries in a timely fashion.


Soldering iron - get a quality one, you're going to need it.


You should also get some no-clean flux:


Decent solder:


And a tip cleaner:


That should get you well on your way - still on a budget, but you'll hate yourself WAY less when you go to build it and have decent equipment. :)

u/FantasticEmu · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

What’s your definition of cheap?

This amazon one worked ok for me after I purchased smaller tips for about $15

u/n4yr · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Does anyone have any soldering iron recommendations?

I was going to get this Vastar one, but it doesn't really seem to be readily available in Australia. I'm probably gonna go with this Weller now.

It's probably not gonna get a whole lot of use, mainly just for the Whitefox :\^)

u/lutusp · 2 pointsr/computers

Here's the soldering iron I use:

It has a relatively small tip, its temperature is controllable if crudely, and it's suitable for most (but not all) small electronic work. There are more specialized irons and tools, as well as a lot of very specialized methods and tools to remove solder from boards and parts.

BTW I'm not endorsing the above device -- it's just the iron I own and I think it's acceptable. I'm sure there are many other similar products.

u/Ghost_Pack · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Depends on the projects. If you're doing anything that requires precision soldering or you need it to last more than a month or two I probably wouldn't get anything super cheap like what you posted, especially if you don't need the extra stuff like the multi-meter and screwdriver. That iron probably costs under a dollar or two to make which is kind of scary considering you're relying on it to control its heat output.


I'd recommend getting a soldering station from a well known brand like this one for any substantial amount of soldering. If you're looking at getting into hobbyist electronics in general or want to invest in a good iron go for something like this.

u/FluffyUnlinked · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! Soldering isn't too hard (I also was afraid of soldering). It's intimidating at first, but after a couple hours of doing it, you'll get more comfortable with it. Getting a cheap mech to practice soldering/desoldering on would probably help you get acquainted with the whole process. This is the soldering iron I used, and this is what I used to desolder. I also used this to clean the tip of the soldering iron in order to make it perform more consistently.

u/Not_A_Bovine · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Not at all. While it's not impossible to use a cheap soldering iron and get a good job done, it will save you a TON of hassel by getting a good one. RadioShack irons are more trouble than 2x what they're worth. My soldering jobs have been a pleasure to do since I upgraded, and I solder often so that's important to me. I use the Weller WESD51, and it's an absolute joy to use. If your on a bit more of a budget, my friend is a professional luthier and he's never complained about the WLC100, which is also from Weller.

Do it. It's worth it.

u/MaddSilence · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don’t forget, you need one with a tip the size of a pen. Any bigger and you will burn your pcb. This is a decent one that I use

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

Weller ST7 ST Series Conical Solder Tip Hobbyist for WP25, WP30 and WP35 Irons, 0.31"

OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool

Sometimes for the smaller welds, like on LEDs, try adding solder before sucking.

u/solipsistnation · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Yep, I've been building stuff for a while, although this is the most intense set of builds I've done. Get yourself a good soldering iron and a couple of spare tips (Weller makes some good ones-- don't go for super-cheap unless you want to replace it a bunch of times). This thing here is about the lowest-end I'd suggest (I use one):

Get some little noise toys, like an Atari Punk Console or even something silly like an LED Christmas tree kit and put it together. There are some really good soldering instructions here:

They list more info on tools, too.

Some kits are more complex than others, too-- the Befaco kits are pretty complicated, and anything with an oscillator will probably require some calibration. Synthrotek make pretty good little kits and have good info on building them.

You can do it, though. It's not difficult. 8) Just take your time and check each step as you go and you'll be fine.

u/reggatronics · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/SergeantTibbs · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you don't already have one, get a soldering station. A Hakko 888 or Weller WES51 is an affordable option and will massively improve any soldering job. This is one of the good examples of how the quality of the tool has a direct effect on the quality of the work, even if you're an amateur.

If you can't see laying out that cash, just try at least to buy this one. I'm sure there are other options also.

EDIT: In case it's not perfectly clear, and for the peanut gallery:

A soldering iron is a perfect example of what a good tool can do, and what a bad tool will stop you from doing. In the hands of a wizard, a shitty iron can still create passable solder joints. But a good soldering iron will allow a rank amateur to make good, quality joints. And an amateur with a bad soldering iron? Nothing but junk will ever result.

A good iron and good light will save many jobs. If you're going to put money anywhere, let it be in tools and lighting.

u/shermansas · 2 pointsr/ECE

WLC100 is a great cheap soldering station.

u/madcow104 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I don't know much about butane soldering irons or what he plans on soldering.

But i do a lot of electronics soldering, and the most important thing for me when buying a soldering iron/station, was that it was adjustable, meaning i could better control the temperature and not fry the components i was soldering. I ended up buying this solder station and it has worked great for me

u/cexshun · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.

Multimeter $45

Soldering Station $38

Solder $25

Desoldering Pump $6

If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.

Desoldering Pump $6

Multimeter $13

Solder $9

Soldering Iron $8

Iron Holder $6

u/Wetbung · 2 pointsr/ECE

It really depends on whether you want a nice soldering iron or just something that will allow you to try it for a few hours. There is a huge price difference. Of course there is also a huge difference in quality. You could get a very nice iron like this for around $250. Or you could get something much less expensive, like this for around $40.

The first one I listed is very similar to one of the best irons I've ever used. The second one is still head and shoulders above the piece of crap I used for the first several years I was soldering. It was like this, at around $5, and as long as I kept the tip sharpened with a file it worked pretty well.

u/SirCarrington · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Here is the one I use.

If you find it a bit pricy, here is a great compromise.

Don't skimp on a soldering iron. If you don't have enough power, you'll overheat the components while you're waiting for the solder to flow.

Get a Weller solder station.

u/numbersdontcount · 2 pointsr/londonontario

I was going to list my Weller WLC100 station on kijiji sometime soon. It's a pretty solid station, and mine's in good condition overall. I believe that this is the tip I have on it: Weller 185-ST7. $40 and it's yours.

u/terry2122 · 2 pointsr/Bass

Soldering is actually not that big a deal. A little practice and you’re good to go. THeres lots of YouTube tutorials. and you can find wiring diagrams all over the Internet.

Get an iron with variable setting like this one it’s a bit more than the $15 for just a plain iron, but it’s worth it and you can use it forever.
Looks like you’re painting it. You can try all sorts of different techniques; I’d maybe go solid color the first time. guitar reranch sells rattle cans of nitrocellulose based paints and clear coats (that’s what expensive guitars use as opposed to poly)
He uses chips from old guitars and cars(fender used leftover paint from car companies for many of the original classic colors) to match proper color and hue, and they come with two different spray nozzles. Again, a little pricier than cans from the hardware store, but nitro finishes are so nice:)
One of the best parts is researching everything! Lots of time on the google machine:)

u/SumErgoCogito · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this iron for everything I do. It has basic thermal control and the iron has a good selection of tips that you can buy: I would definitely get fine point tips. Here is a vacuum that I use as well for desoldering:

Whatever iron you have now will probably be fine, but definitely will want precision tips if you can find them.

u/Dan-68 · 2 pointsr/arduino

I saw this on Amazon for $40.
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/GarrukApex · 2 pointsr/Nerf

This is what I use and it's very high quality.
my soldering iron

u/mtn_dewgamefuel · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this one and it's done pretty well for soldering, desoldering, and resoldering my custom board.

u/metafizikal · 1 pointr/Zeos

Sweet. I was thinking of something a bit cheaper, might get this. Seems like the one you linked has a much better temperature control system.

For basic soldering are different tip types really that necessary?

u/flazyman · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I've had this Weller for years, it works great. It's on sale right now for $30, definitely worth the money

u/demevalos · 1 pointr/headphones

Sounds like your soldering iron isn't hot enough, or your using thicker solder than what should be used for small electrical wiring. This is the solder I use for everything. I would also recommend a soldering iron with variable temperatures if you can afford it, like this one. And I do believe your connections are touching on the driver. That would be causing your mono issue.

u/Whitehawk1313 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

going to be soldering my very first keyboard ever. Can you let me know if this will work? I will not be using this to often so I don't need a expensive kit

solder station

solder - is the size right?

u/st1tchy · 1 pointr/Gameboy

I use this one and I love it. It has temperature control in the form of a dial (1-5, not degrees) and the iron itself plugs into the base, so if it breaks or something, it is replaceable.

u/NlightNme23 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

u/DohBot · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/skiwithpete · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

oh, yeah, a used Hakko would be ace.

Weller are also good. and a lot less expensive.

u/dstarr3 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have a Weller 40-watt soldering iron. Specifically, this one:

Works great for soldering. But does anyone have any experience with this iron and desoldering? Specifically, will it get hot enough to melt the lead-free solder that mass-manufacturers use?

u/LesZedCB · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Is that worth the extra 80% price increase over something like this?

EDIT: Math...

u/SpaceMan420gmt · 1 pointr/Guitar

Is this an ok soldering iron for guitar work? Will it heat a Strat claw up enough to solder the ground?

u/Cuntrover · 1 pointr/ebikes

That makes sense. I've been using this a 40W iron I picked up cheap off Amazon, and it barely cuts it for the bigger wires.

u/arapawa · 1 pointr/diypedals

I started with a cheap iron from Radioshack and gave up on soldering for years because I sucked at it.

Then I upgraded to this Weller station and suddenly I was soldering like a pro. Temperature adjustment is amazing.

I don't know about any of the super-cheap ones on Amazon, but there's definitely value in spending more to get a great iron.

u/MediocreBadGuy23 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure do! I was looking at the Massdrop listing for the KC60 and then found this kit for it on aliexpress. Thought it'd be a great learning experience to build my own. I've got a pretty extensive list of possible soldering irons on Amazon like Weller WLC100, Soaiy 60 watt, and a couple more from Vastar and Weller. I'm completely new to this so I'm not trying to spend a fortune on the iron

u/bmilcs · 1 pointr/headphones

My soldering iron the popular:

I only use at at 1/2 power so I would think 30watt is more than enough.

u/IAmBloodBrother · 1 pointr/dreamcast

As far as practicing on something, i took an old PC tower apart that my dad gave me, i have all the pcb still, as well as a battery holder (score), so ive got scrap to mess with. I will snag some cat5 cable too, thanks for that.
This is the iron I intend to get when i get the ball rolling with my modding:

I have considered the Dream Ide Reborn, but I however fancy an internal HDD mod, and so I think this is the route i would go:

u/xXriderXx7 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Here's a god beginners kit. There are cheaper ones but this is good to learn with and potentially move on to other solder projects.

And as for advice. YouTube. I can sit here and tell you how to do it, but you need to see it done to really understand. Search for soldering tutorials, there's plenty.

u/pyramid_of_greatness · 1 pointr/LAlist

I am out of town, but can try to help..

Cheap soldering kits make it hard to get a good, consistent temperature on the tip, and the recovery time (time for the tip to get hot again after bringing it down by cleaning, etc) is poor. You'd want to get an adjustable one if possible. You could easily be working too hot and causing yourself problems. Lead free solder is harder to work with. I have a Hakko that I love, but something in this range would be a worthwhile investment and a fine iron.

As for the soldering, you really are just jamming the iron into the two pieces of metal you are trying to join, and then slowly feeding the solder into the junction. Use as little as you need to get a tiny, clean joint, and never a 'bubble'.

Removing solder is a horse of a different color. That is a pain in the ass. For that, you will want a lot of flux and a hot-hot iron (as hot as you can go before you start damaging things/burning down the house like you say). It's not fun to remove these components. Sometimes you get lazy and snip out the old one and try to work out the lead with a needle-nose and the iron (fluxed up hole) at the same time. Helping hands or a good vise can be crucial for this.

I'm no great master at it, but it's really one of those things you can pick up watching a few youtube videos or hearing instructions (with the right equipment) and pick up. I taught a friend the other day for a project they are working on. It really is just practice to get good, and that seems to happen quickly once you get a feel for working the solder.

u/jmassaglia · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this Velleman soldering station and it has worked great for me. There are horror stories in Amazon's comments, but I have never had problems with temperature fluctuation and I've desoldered entire keyboards as well as assembled various projects.

If I was to buy one again, I'd probably buy this Weller model. It's a few dollars more, but they make good stuff.

u/thelectronicnub · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You could, but I wouldn't recommend it. I'd recommend this one, it's cheap and well constructed.

u/jswilson64 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Here's a Weller station for about twice the price of the HK iron. I have this, and it's sufficient for hobby stuff, at least what I do.

I use a copper scouring pad (Chore Boy!) stuffed into a small tin can (cat food size) to clean the tip.

u/F0xdude · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

When soldering with my cheap, $15 soldering kit, I notice there is a lot of gunk left on the joints (not the orange-ish flux, it's more of black flakes). Should I buy a new Iron, or is it more likely to be the solder itself?

Also, for a new iron, I was looking at saving a bit of money and going for the weller WLC100. Is this a decent choice? I know a hakko is ideal but I don't feel like spending that much at the moment.

u/mr_af · 1 pointr/arduino
u/z3rocool · 1 pointr/arduino

No one taught me how to solder, I just kinda did it. Buy a soldering iron (like I said get one in the $50 range, obviously if you have money to burn a $100-$200 one is going to be 'better'. I use a WLC100 ) some solder, and start connecting components together. I would also pick up a desoldering tool, I use one of those bulbs but there are better/different types out there.

You can use use a breadboard with wires. That's sorta the recommended way to experiment. I tend to move things to protoboard pretty quickly as I find things get messy quickly and it's easy to disconnect things.

I should say I'm not an expert - I'm actually more of a beginner in the world of electronics, but I thought I would share my experiences of how I got started because the path is not totally clear.

I really wish someone told me that ebay/china was the place to go for components. It's stupid but it's just so much cheaper. (I got burned with sparkfun when I was building a project, $100 of parts, $50 shipping - I wanted it fast and it wasn't that much more - then the kicker $50 in import fees/duty at my door) After that I learned mouser was good, $200 and you get free shipping and duty - ended up ordering lots of random things and lots of things in bulk - need one resistor? Might as well get 1000 :). I recently learned digikey is in canada and does fairly cheap shipping so I tend to order from there now if I NEED something fast.

Ebay is the best though for stuff if you're in no rush though, and totally the best place to get stuff like protoboard, breadboard, jumper wires, resistor packs (assorted resistors) LED's, assorted IC's, etc.

u/kDubya · 1 pointr/OpenPV


For solder I would just go to RadioShack and get the thinnest stuff they have.

Edit - it's probably all they'll have, but make sure you get rosin core. Lead free or leaded is up to you.

u/Boucherwayne78 · 1 pointr/laptops

If you can't get it with a Q-tip, it's nothing to worry about. Grab yourself a soldering iron on Amazon, as well as some quality solder and flux. I will link some in an edit to this comment in a few minutes. Also, screw everyone else in this thread, that is damn near the perfect amount of thermal paste.

EDIT: Here are my recommendations and reasons!



Cheapo soldering iron:



This one will do you some good for the quick fix, although I can't speak to the longevity of the iron or its ability to melt some of the higher temperature solders that factories use.


More expensive (but WAAAAAAY BETTER) iron:



This is a great soldering iron if you think electronics is something you'd like to get into. Quality replaceable tips are available, and it has a stand and comes with a cleaning sponge. I've used these, and absolutely love them. Honestly though, if this is going to be one of very few times you solder, just go for the cheap one.






The cheap iron comes with some solder, and honestly you can probably get away with that for this one repair. If you decide to get the more premium iron though, here is some good solder:



OR (I've never used this particular solder but MG chemicals is a great brand)



I usually stick to smaller diameter solders because you have a lot more control over how much you're putting onto a joint. This stuff is good, but really you just need to make sure it's lead solder because it melts a lot easier and is easier for beginners to work with.






If you want your joints to form and form well, you need some flux. At least coming from me, this is mandatory. Here's some good no-clean flux that you can use that will mostly evaporate off and shouldn't be much fuss to clean.






Although kind of slow, here's a pretty good soldering guide. This relates more to soldering electrical components, but most of the lessons remain the same.


Best of luck!

u/morbetter · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/bojangles09 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Yes. this is the product page for it.

u/Kiraisuki · 1 pointr/Gameboy

It's a fairly simple process. Just open the game, desolder the old battery, solder the new one, and close the game.

Make sure the new battery is the same type as the old one; a CR2032 probably won't fit in a game that uses a CR1616. Make sure the batteries you order have tabs. It's generally not a good idea to solder directly to batteries, so the tabs make it much easier to mount. As for the batteries themselves, just find an eBay seller with good feedback and you should be fine.

Take your time and be careful, and you should be able to do it just fine. If you're worried you'll mess it up, watch some soldering how-to videos and practice on some old junk board before you move on to a Gameboy game. If you don't already have a soldering iron, the Weller WLC100 is a great, inexpensive, variable-temperature soldering iron that is frequently recommended here. I have it and it works perfectly. 60/40 rosin-core leaded solder should be fine for this; it's what I've used for my cart battery replacements and I've had no issues with it.

u/puddsy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Those desoldering irons are straight up dangerous. I'd avoid at all costs. Grab a threaded solder sucker, it's much safer and works about as well.

The general consensus is that a small, conical tip works best for switches. I personally like an elbow tip for SMD soldering, but you can use the same one you're using for switches.

Your soldering station looks like a piece of shit. Buy this one instead. Set it to 4 and solder away.

You've got solder paste in your order. That won't work properly without a hot air setup. Kester 0.031" is the solder of choice for building. You can also find similar, lead-free solder on amazon, but lead free is harder to work with.

If you don't have flush cutters and ESD-safe tweezers, I recommend grabbing some. Ifixit has some for pretty cheap.

Your cleaners are bad. Get this instead. It is, again, safer than your selection.

You don't need flux, the kester solder has it in the solder already.

u/TheSirCheddar · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/cinch123 · 1 pointr/arduino

Yeah I have a Weller WLC100 that I like a lot. Most of my other tools are dime store pliers, snippers and strippers. I wouldn't mind upgrading some of those. I do have a PanaVise 300 on the list too since this one is a pain for electronics soldering.

u/CBNathanael · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you don't own a soldering iron, but foresee yourself continuing down this road in the future, I implore you to buy a decent soldering iron. Getting a cheap $10 iron will just result in horrible joints and a lot of frustration.

Start off with something like the [Weller WLC100](]. It's a no-frills iron, but it's quality and will serve you well. One of these little metal sponges is great addition, too. Better than using a wet sponge to clean your tip.

As for kits...I don't know off hand. Listen to the others for that advice. Just try to do something that's through-hole and not SMD for your first project.

u/Lumumba · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've thought about this and even called They would do it for $2 a switch + $30 which I thought was reasonable, but still too expensive.

If I were to do it myself and buy clears for ... $0.6 - $0.7 a piece I'll be at almost $200 for the 750r. What else is involved with desoldering and re-soldering this board (for someone with no experience?)

I will be buying this soldering station soon:

u/woooden · 1 pointr/diydrones

Soldering is one of those tasks where it really pays off to invest a little bit more in your tools at the beginning. /u/1-11 mentioned the Weller WLC100 - I second this recommendation. I've had one for almost 8 years and it's never let me down, though I bought a nicer iron a few years ago (Aoyue 968A+) and the Weller hasn't seen much use since.

The kit you posted is probably not very high quality. I would steer away from it and spend the extra money to get something you know will perform well for years. You do want some of the things from that kit, though:

  • Solder sucker

  • Solder wick

  • Tweezers

  • Various tips

  • Flux (I use a flux pen similar to this one for most things as it's a little easier to apply)

    A good way to practice is to get some perf board (the tan-colored breadboard-looking PCB prototyping boards), a pack of random wires and/or resistors/capacitors, and just start soldering things in. SparkFun sells some good kits for beginner soldering, and they have a few good tutorials as well.

    Always use flux, always tin your wires before soldering them to anything, and always hold the iron on the solder long enough for it to completely flow. Learn how to use solder wick and you'll be able to repair just about anything. Finally, always tin your tips before storing the iron - don't want the tips to corrode!
u/Ploofy · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

I don't have one yet. Any recommendations? I've seen this one suggested in other posts.

u/Bleedthebeat · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

You could go with this one and it would be better than anything you could get for $20.

But it’s definitely worth the extra money to go with

This one

or this one

I have the Hakko and a buddy has the Weller so I’ve used them both and they’re both great stations.

u/Dozenal2112 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So I'm trying to beat the biggest hurdle in building a mechanical keyboard: soldering. I'm currently looking at this station,, which seems to be pretty decent. However what's concerning is the lack of digital display for the temperature and it only having 40W to work with. Are there any you guys would recommend to me under 50 usd? I'm probably not going to use it often after this. I just want an iron that ensures I won't fuck up my pcb or at least drastically reduces the chances of it happening. I would also like to know which solder would you normally use for these types of things and what type of tips should I use. I also heard that BOX switches are easier to solder. Can somebody explain to me the meaning of this and why?

u/_pigpen_ · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Amazon has an entry level adjustable temp Weller iron on a deal right now:


For your purposes even this is probably over kill.

u/wicken-chings · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Jakweese · 1 pointr/arduino

Would this solder work with this?

u/SarcasticOptimist · 1 pointr/Guitar
  • Good soldering station (like this) with lead-free solder.

  • Buy enough stuff from Guitarelectronics so shipping won't stiff you. Look into no load for the tone pot (if you usually keep the tone at 10 anyway), and this looks cool if slightly pricey, if you turn down the volume on your guitar occassionally. You may want to do a 5 way switch instead of the 3 way to avoid push-pull pots and other junk.

  • Wiring diagrams from the pickup manufacturer are best, since wire colors aren't standardized. Duncan's diagrams are detailed. I'd probably check Youtube videos, ideally ones that test multiple pickups, to see which ones you like the most.

  • Get a shielding kit while you can. Guitarnuts is a good resource on how to ground and avoid getting electrocuted.
u/jackal858 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

If you are willing to drop a little bit of coin, but don't want to go too crazy this guy is pretty popular:

For starting out, and into the foreseeable future, one like this would probably server you just fine:

u/Cartheion · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Weller is the tried and true irons a lot of people use. We had a decent one in an old shop I was a part of and it kept going for years, real nice solder joints.

This one from Amazon would get you started. its good to pay a little more for this one than one of the shits from Radioshack.

u/indrora · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've been soldering for 20 years and I still can't quite get it down all the time.

Take an evening, beer up and go watch the PACE International soldering tutorial. Get a good soldering iron from a local electronics shop or Amazon; I like the little $30 Weller "student" irons because they're adjustable and have good tip variety for cheap. SMT soldering needs two basic kinds of tip: point and a flat. With some practice, you can easily drag-solder gull-wing packages like the Atmel here.

You also don't seem to have

  • ruined the board
  • actually caused damage to the gull-wing

    A small amount of solder wick or just GENTLY dragging your iron across the pins will get the bridged pins cleaned up, just make sure to add some flux when you solder again, if your solder doesn't have flux baked in. Then, the big glob of solder should just pop off the board -- it isn't wetted to anything Wick off the board.

    I will agree with whoever said you're using too much solder: you're dripping. That's too much. The PACE videos will get you oriented in the right direction as to when to stop.

    Solder wick is cheap to the point Amazon demands you buy it with something else. Get some. It's like a towel for solder. Heat, soak, and repeat.
u/roomba_floorvac · 1 pointr/dreamcast

I recommend this Weller from Amazon. It is a little pricier than others, but top-notch quality, especially if you plan on soldering in the future.

u/K_s_K · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Then you should get a good soldering station. Hakko is a really good brand. Heres one of their soldering stations:
If thats more than what your willing to spend i've heard good things about the low end weller stations. doesn't have the highest wattage but it should be good enough for your purpose. Link:

u/desktop_version_bot · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Brewi · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I am looking to buy a new soldering iron/station off of Amazon. I don't really do any electrical work that would warrant needing an iron around the house, but the one my dad has is a POS and it's time for fresh equipment.

I am planning on building at least 2 more keyboards this year (though I'm not sure I'll build any more after that, but I wouldn't put it out of the question).

Is this station off of Amazon okay? I was recommended this Weller station but I don't like that it doesn't have an exact temp display (people complain about the 1-2-3-4 settings). However, it's a good amount cheaper.

What do?

u/xJeffmanx · 1 pointr/Guitar

I'd say around 30W. I have a variable like this that works for most work I do.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/grant1704 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects:

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:, a solder wick:, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them:

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

u/RolandMT32 · 1 pointr/Guitar

It's fairly easy. I bought a Weller soldering iron that I think works well. Take a note of where the positive and negative wires from the pickup are comnected, then heat the solder so you can disconnect the wires, and solder the new pickup's wires there.
This page has some tips for guitar wiring & soldering:

u/doeraymefa · 1 pointr/soldering
u/MojoMonster · 1 pointr/telecaster

Soldering is a good skill to have, in general.

And if you're careful, there's not much you can screw up.

Watch a YT tutorial or two and you'll be good to go.

For tools you'll eventually want what is in this kit, but probably not that kit itself.

I bought a Weller WLC100 40 watt kit (definitely get a norrower ST2 or ST3 tip as well), a solder sucker tool (you can use desoldering wick, but the solder sucker is worth the money), a Helping Hands and 60/40 rosin-core solder.

In addition, I like using tip tinner, a wire tip cleaner like this because I found that using a wet sponge reduced the tip temperature too much.

Also, solder fumes are not great so only do this is in a well-ventilated area. I like to use a small fan to blow the fumes away from my face.

The only thing you'll need to do is desolder/clip the existing swtich and wire up the replacement. You don't have to mess with the pots or caps unless you want to.

Phostenix Tele diagram page.

edit: fixed solder type

u/YiloMiannopoulos · 1 pointr/QuadCities

The face plate might be as difficult to solder to too. I'll take a picture of it later

u/sixtwomidget · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

I’d recommend getting a pedal kit from BYOC . The other thing you can do is just just buy a bunch of hook up wire and some jacks and just practice. Another good soldering iron to start with in addition to the one above is the Weller WLC100. Good luck!

u/noodlebot5ooo · 1 pointr/diypedals

That Weller wlc100 is what you're referencing, yeah?

u/pj931 · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Well, I really want to say that it's not worth it if you don't have a soldering iron, but having an iron opens you up to modding. I personally would buy this iron to start Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

It's a decent iron and then you can buy a DMG and put in a bivert mod! Also, don't forget to tin your tip or else it slowly corrodes when the iron is hot. These are the starter irons in the electronics shop at my school, a technical high shool. And if you get bored you can always poke holes in the power supply with the hot iron!/s If you have a lot of money then buy the iron I have, a Weller WES51. Soldering irons can also fix jewelry and other metal, so it's not a one time use purchase. And if you get burnt you don't even feel it, I don't think I have nerves in my right index finger anymore!

Replacing the batteries is very easy. They go for $7 for 10 on eBay just search Gameboy save battery. Only Pokemon RSE need them for GBA games because of their clocks. They use CR1616 batteries. No other GBA games need batteries AFAIK. Most original or color game needs them for saves, however. They use CR2032 batteries. It's easy, just make sure that the positive and negative are correct. Positive side is shiny with writing on the battery and the negative is textured. Earlier GB games such as Kirby's dreamland, Tetris, Pinball, etc require no save battery, as they didn't save!

u/MDAI88 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I think i'm going to go with this one here. Its more then the one I originally thought of getting but sounds like this one is MUCH better then the Chinese crap. But I might go with this one here its a lot more but its worth it from what it sounds like.

u/jairuncaloth · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this one. It has served me well for several years. I did however get a better tip cleaner.

u/Orange_And_Purple · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this. It works well, but the tip on it is a bit large for the more intricate work. I would recommend something like this, which may work better, and it even comes with some stuff to practice on.

u/NotSoNinjaHD · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Soldering Station

Solder Sucker

Just these two tools (and solder of course but I already had that laying around), a Phillips head screwdriver (to unscrew the PCB from the case), and a small flat head screwdriver (to pop the old switches out of the plate). I highly doubt you’ll break something though. Soldering/desoldering isn’t that difficult and as long as you’re careful about it you won’t mess anything up.

I also have a custom planned for my first GMK set coming at the beginning of next year! Gonna throw some 67g Zealios or Zilents in it (haven’t decided yet).

u/musicman116 · 1 pointr/diypedals

Yet another vote for Weller soldering irons. The WLC100 is the model I use and it does the job well.

u/buefordwilson · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

Like several others have mentioned, /r/diypedals is a good place to go. As long as we've got you here, though... I had already practiced soldering before and wanted to start with a kit. That way you have everything you need and just have to assemble. A very easy and inexpensive first build was [this] ( boost pedal. Don't let the simplicity fool you. I still have this boost pedal on my board to this day and love it. Also, I picked up [this] ( Weller soldering station. Crazy cheap, but I've been using it for over 6 years with no issues. Finally, just read, read, read and read some more! There's tons of great info in various forums, books and youtube videos to get you on your way. Best of luck and have fun with it!

u/limitz · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I suggest this:

It's a very good kit, and will give you plenty of practice before you solder your Poker 2. No frills, and will give you plenty of practice for through hole soldering.

Combine this with a practical, but good quality soldering station:

A desoldering pump:

And some solder:

To learn, there are plenty of Youtube videos, I recommend you also solder the Elenco kit, then desolder everything to get a feel for how the desoldering pump works (it's super easy, you can't really screw it up). Then, solder it together one more time for extra practice.

All together, about $66 bucks. Add in the cost of the switches, and you're looking at a little over 100. Still a bunch cheaper than the Poker 2 from Massdrop ($143.50), and you've just learned a life skill. For me, that's totally worth it, but then again, I'm an engineer, and learning useful skills is what my entire profession is based on.


EDIT: Get this soldering kit instead:

Cheaper and has more soldering points. The other one has a shitty speaker which doesn't add much to the soldering lesson, but drives the cost up.

u/apt-get_-y_tittypics · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Still can't get it to work. 40w iron. Not enough?

u/Sphearion · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I have had this one for almost 2 years now. Does the job and does it well.

u/nitronarcosis · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've got a Weller WLC100, relatively inexpensive but the difference in quality from a $7 RadioShack is tremendous. Makes everything so much easier with better results. Weller WLC100

u/ComradeOj · 1 pointr/consolerepair

I don't know about making repro crats, but I do know about mods and repairs. I have done an overclock mod and 2 s-video mods on my genesis consoles, as well as lots of repairs on other consoles.

I have the basic tools like screw drivers, needle-nose pliers, and some tiny cutters just like these.

My soldering iron is a cheap 35 watt fixed temperature hunk of crap. Get a better one. I don't have any recommendations, but this one is linked to from this subreddit's sidebar. It has good reviews, but I haven't tried it myself.

I also have a spool of thin rosin core solder that is about 1mm thick. I also have a spool of de-solder wick which comes in handy.

To hold down and/or secure wires I use some rubbery electrical tape or hot glue. I use the electrical tape whenever I can, since it is easier to remove than the hot glue. The hot glue is useful in small amounts to keep wires from getting accidentally pulled out of place.

A multimeter is very useful. You probably won't need a really fancy one, just a basic $10 one.

I bought one of those parallel cables that all the old printer's used for only $1.99 at a thrift store. It's packed with different colored wires, that are just the right thickness to use for most console repairs/mods.

u/permanenttemp · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Can't go wrong with this, $19.07 shipped with Prime.

If you need something safe for smaller projects as well, this would be fine. $41.19 with Prime

I guess I'm a fan of weller products. I've had them at home and a shop. I got one of their higher end soldering stations when I was about 11 to build my own battery packs for my R/C cars and it saw a lot of use. Back then we hardwired the leads from the ESC to the motors and batteries between heats for the lowest resistance. (not to mention deans plugs weren't a thing yet, tamiya connectors would melt together with a hot motor/battery combo) I still have it over 20 years later.

I would say 40 watts is about the standard with typical R/C projects. Also, the lower end brands 40 watt irons don't ever seem to create the heat as something of decent quality.

Also, if you don't have something like this yet, pick one up. $7 shipped all over Amazon. Also available at Harbor Freight for about the same price if you have those in your area.

u/Hyperknux333 · 1 pointr/3dshacks

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station
This is the one i bought

u/istarian · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Well to replace the battery you'll need to open the cart, carefully desolder the old battery, and solder in the new one. It's fairly straightforward and easy, but you can go look up a youtube video for a walkthrough. In theory you can tape in a new untabbed one in, but going with the original design/intention is preferable and won't come loose and lose your save if done properly. However, you'll need the following:

u/combataran · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This, this and this should get you started.

u/preludetospeed · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I am using a cheap 30watt iron right now. I was thinking about getting something like this.

u/kieoui · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Depending on how much you are willing to spend, these are two good options, one cheaper and the other more expensive:

u/Goodwill_Gamer · 1 pointr/Gamecube

$14 link for a solid basic soldering iron.
Here's one that costs a little more, but has more adjustability $39 link.
Anything from Weller is going to be pretty good.
Here's a pretty good basic soldering video.
It's not hard, but takes a little practice to get the feel for it. I would recommend finding a broken electronic that you can pull a circuit board out of and just practice soldering by removing parts from the board and putting them back.
Have fun!

u/Kelsomatic · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks a lot for the comment. So when you say Weller soldering station, you mean something like this and not this which was suggested earlier. I can't seem to tell if the latter is adjustable (packaging seems misleading) but I'm assuming not. If the first link has your thumbs up I'll probably go with it because the price is totally doable, it's adjustable between 5W and 40W, and it looks pretty cool IMO.

Love your work btw!

u/SnoopyM · 1 pointr/diypedals
u/emertonom · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have this one. It's not great, but it's been good enough for my purposes for a few years. It's about $40.

There are ones on Amazon that are a little cheaper. This one sounds pretty comparable and is in your price range.

For really basic soldering, you actually can get away without a temperature control, but it's hard to recommend that for anything involving a printed circuit board.

For my part, I'm thinking of upgrading to a hot air reflow station, to make it easier to work with solder paste and surface-mount components, as well as heat-shrink tubing. But the basic adjustable Weller was good enough for several years of tinkering.

u/Akowyn · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I saw the Hakko, don't wanna spend that much right now.
A weller is in my budget. Is that an okay one? Does it come with everything I'd need or do I need to get more things?

u/ZeroMercuri · 1 pointr/Nerf

This is complete overkill for NERF needs but Weller is known for high quality soldering irons

This is the one I use but it's over your budget (I do more than NERF stuff)

This is what I would recommend for starting out. It's good but totally not stupid expensive.

I would avoid soldering irons that don't have the cradle/base (although you can buy a cradle separately)

u/DonOblivious · 1 pointr/Skookum


This is nothing more than a 40 watt iron with a triac. There is no temp control or even a way to gauge how hot the iron is. I own one and would not recommend it.

u/Bemo98 · 0 pointsr/Multicopter