Reddit reviews Gorilla Super Glue 15 Gram, Clear, (Pack of 1)

This should do it https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IY82FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497723614&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gorilla+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51mHX2GDBrL&ref=plSrch

Ok so This might get a bit long. and I apologize if you already know some of this, just being complete

tools:
I get most of this from 3-Rivers because they have everything you'll need but look elsewhere as needed. They also have some videos on there site on how to use the tools.

Taper Tool This will cut the taper for the nock and point. The 5° for the point and 11°C for the nock. Get the right size for the shaft diameter you use.
Fletching jig (answered elsewhere)
fletching glue: I use either Fletch-it or Gorilla super glue
Nock glue: same as fletching glue
Point glue: I use the Boehning Ferr-L-tight I have never had a problem with it them falling off even in the desert heat. Need a heat source; candle, alcohol lamp, etc.; to melt the glue to use. Some people use epoxy the main draw back is if you want to change or salvage points.
Something to cut the shafts to length.
Finish and or paint of your choice
pliers for putting on nocks if you use hot glue they will get hot
cup of water to cool the points when they are installed
Spine weight calculator My favorite tool for getting a starting point on the proper spine weight

components
Shafts: Lofts of good options with different properties but for simplicity right now go with Port Orford Cedar its is the cheapest option that I have found and the lightest. Pick either 5/16 or 11/32 depending on the spine weight you need.

Field Points Pick the same diameter as the shafts you selected and for simplicity go with 125 grain points. Because that is the weight that is assumed to be used in the spine weight of the shaft.

Fletching I assuming you want feather fletching if you're making wood arrows. Pick either shield or parabolic cut and the colors your want. Go with 4-5 inch long feathers.

Nocks Pick the size based on the shafts diameter and pick your color. These are the only nocks I'll use, there are others but they have never let me down.

Simplified Process
This can be done in groups just giving as doing one arrow for simplicity and once you know what your are doing some of these steps can be done in a different order

1. Straighten shaft
   
2. Cut nock (11°C) taper
   
3. apply a finish (polyurethane, Linseed oil, etc)
   
   • the cut nock taper helps if you are dipping the shafts to finish
     
   • I have had good luck rubbing on the finish with a cloth
     
   • Now would be a good time to crest (paint the shaft all fancy) and apply another coat of finish over that
     
4. cut to lenth
   
5. Cut nock taper
   
6. boil points to clean off machining oil
   
   • Yep, put them in a pot with water and a drop of detergent on the stove to clean them off. easiest way
     
7. Glue on points using hot glue (or epoxy and skip the steps below) Video from 3_rivers
   
   • get some melted glue on shaft
     
   • slide on field tip
     
   • put point over flame to melt glue and slide it on the shaft (use pliers)
     
   • Put point in cup of water to cool off.
     
8. Glue on nocks with super glue
   9 Fletch: The True Flight fletching guide does a better job of explain it than I ever could
   
   and you are done.
   
   It really is that simple. I have made (and broke) bunches of arrows so if you have questions ask away. I can elaborate on different parts if you have specific questions or wondering what to do when you get the parts in.
   
   
   
   
   
   

http://www.amazon.com/University-Arizona-Wildcat-Figurine-Antenna/dp/B005IB3N00

Plus

http://www.amazon.com/Barbie-Christmas-Morning-Slippers-Hairbrush/dp/B001JEH7ZW

Plus

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IY82FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419287838&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41nNuDE7mbL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

= DIY masterpiece

one more thing you can do , especially on tricky parts, or parts that you have unsuccessfully mated is :

take a hobby knife or exacto, and make several dozen marks on the surface area (only where it will be covered up by the other part of course) make like a "cross-hatch" pattern of score marks with your blade on the matting surfaces of both parts.

that gives the glue hundreds of little valleys to seep down into and make an extra strong bond.

If that doesnt work, lol, then you have to pin it.

If THAT doesnt work, you just need to quit this hobby and go back to your PS4.


I really fail to understand your issue with the gorilla glue, i think it is the BOMB.

Are you using THIS???
http://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Original-Gorilla-Glue/dp/B0001GAYRC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669512&sr=8-4&keywords=gorilla+super+glue

Thats not what you want!!

You want THIS
http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669512&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+super+glue

Another reason i love the gorilla superglue is it doesnt make nearly as much cyoacrylate stain (white stain from the fume or offgassing of the glue while curing)


I dont know why im talking so much about glue tonight.

Use some Gorilla Glue for it.

Amazon - Gorilla Glue

After seeking the guidance of all you gurus (https://www.reddit.com/r/XWingTMG/comments/4tkx3v/taking_the_plunge_with_magnets/), I finally went ahead and did it.

Components:
Ring Magnets https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R421
Ball Bearings https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R421
Gorialla Glue https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM
Dremel 4000 https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-3-34-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVQ
X-Acto Knife http://www.michaels.com/10223579.html#q=x-acto&start=10
Pliers http://lmgtfy.com/?q=pliers

My process for the ships was as follows:

• Remove the peg carefully with pliers
  
• When necessary, modify the ship with Dremel 4000
  
  • T-65 X-Wing engines cut
    
  • HWK-290 sanded bottom
    
  • TIE Phatom engines cut
    
• Apply Gorilla Glue and ring magnet (K&J's R421)
  
  My Process for the stands was as follows:
  
• Cut the nub off the peg with an X-Acto knife
  
  • For the B-Wing stand, instead apply the peg removed from the B-Wing
    
• Use an engraving bit on the dremel to make a divet for a ball bearing
  
• Grasp the ball bearing (K&J NSB3) with pliers and quickly sand it against a piece of sand paper
  
• Apply gorilla glue to the top of the stand, and place the ball bearing in divet
  
• Quickly run a paper towel around the base of the bearing to catch excess epoxy
  
• Power sand (with dremel) once set

Woodworker here. It's no problem at all to repair that break and end up with a neck that's more solid than before.

You can take it to a luthier and it'll be an easy job for them, or it's a pretty easy DIY job too.

Here's what I'd do: get a bottle of CA glue (super/krazy glue), a needle-tip glue injector, a clamp (a quick clamp would be fine, or any solid clamp with padded clamping surfaces to avoid marring the neck), a wiping cloth, and acetone (paint thinner or nail polish remover).

Gently force the break open slightly, and inject CA into several locations throughout the break. (The ideal would be to get a coat of glue across the entire surface, but that's not practical in this case.) You want to work quickly, as CA has a short working time, but don't rush. Once the glue is in place, immediately apply the clamp. I'd locate it directly on the first fret so it's central on the break. If using a quick clamp, get it as tight as it goes. A screw-based clamp should only be tightened to finger tightness, as those can apply much more force than a quick clamp and you don't need a lot of clamping force in this situation. If there's any glue squeeze-out, clean it up immediately with the cloth dampened with acetone. CA glue cures very quickly, so you can remove the clamp after only 5 minutes or so. Just to be safe, I'd let it sit for a day before restringing it.

The last thing to do to make it as good as new is to repair the finish. It looks like this neck has an oiled finish, so that makes things super easy. Feel across the entire joint. If you can feel the break at all, take a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and gently sand the joint, going with the grain. It shouldn't take much effort to get it smooth. Finally, get some tung oil (make sure it's 100% tung oil, not "tung oil finish"), apply a small amount to a clean rag, and wipe a thin coat across the repaired area. Let it sit for a few hours, gently sand with fine grit sandpaper (absolutely no more coarse than 220), and repeat. I'd repeat this process for three or four coats. If you notice a different coloration on the repaired area and want to keep it even, then oil the entire neck. (Precautions for working with tung oil: work in a ventilated area, and dispose of your oily rags properly. Either burn them, or lay them out in a ventilated area (preferably outdoors) until they become hard and brittle, at which point the oil is cured and the rags can be thrown out. If thrown in the trash or balled up before the oil is cured, they can actually spontaneously ignite.)

I did this in my 2014 forester with a new Nexus 7 LTE a 3.00 Black TPU case from Amazon and some strong little magnets.

Super simple install, looks really great in person, holds on strong, and is removable if you want to still use your tablet or to remove it for security. You can keep your stock deck also!!

1. Pop the trim off around your radio
   
2. Just below the hazzard button glue 3 magnets inside next to each other right in the middle.
   
3. Glue three magnets to the back of the case on the volume button side(If you use the other side your tablet will not turn on because it will trip the magnetic switch inside the nexus)
   
4. (Optional) If you don't want the magnets to mar your dash up put little rubber feet on the back of them.
   
   I've been using this setup to "Click" my nexus 7 over my radio for 6 months now with out an issue. The three magnets hold perfectly and stay on even when taking off ramps and not so sane speeds and off roading. I've only had it fall off once when the california heat caused the little rubber feet to melt off. I fixed this with super glue and it hasn't happened again.
   
   The parts that I used
   
   Magnets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KUURP2/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Rubber feet:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBU8XLA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Glue:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IY82FM/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Case:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EENEE24/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   EDIT:
   The Nexus 7 also has a magnetic field sensor that you can use in Tasker to trigger when the tablet it on the dash. For mine I have it auto sense the magnets and open Car Home, and turn the screen timeout off, turn off Wifi, enable Bluetooth, and turn on GPS. Then when it's removed it closes Car Home, enables Wifi, disables bluetooth and GPS.

1/4 inch birch from home depot. Durablack labels, axle pegs, Gorilla glue and steel brackets. Because the laser leaves a char, glued joints are not that strong so I like the bracket / peg arrangement. To make, glue edge of each piece, knock together. When done, stick in the pegs, use a japanese flush cutting saw to whack off excess peg. DXF file is here.

I use Gorilla Glue on everything including plastics, resins, and pewter. It hasn't failed me yet.

You can try using Gorilla Glue to paste the head back on. That thing can glue almost anything together.

I actually made it. Cost me somewhere around $75 if I remember correctly. Buy all the materials listed below for the size/quantity you want, and then I custom printed and cut clear labels for the top and sides of the jar. The magnets are glued to the inside of the jar lids. If you get them strong enough they will never slide or slip. The ones I list can get about a half inch from the stainless base before they won't go back.

Stainless Steel Backplate - You can order in a lot of places - but make sure you have the correct steel makeup. Not all stainless is magnetic!

Superglue - Any standard superglue should work.

Magnets - It would seem that they don't sell these magnets anymore, but it should be easy to find something similar.

4oz Glass Hex Jars w/ Lids - This was the most reliable source at the time.

Not who you are responding to, but ...

I have not used the gel. I have always used this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-15-g/dp/B001IY82FM/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Brush-Nozzle-Clear/dp/B01A7AVQKA/

I usually use Gorilla brand super glue for plastic models. I'm sure any super glue will work well enough for a shelf model, though. Use a small amount; if you use too much it won't stick as well and will ooze out of the crack when you put it back together. I'd recommend gluing it after moving, so you're less likely to break it again. A fresh bottle always seems to be more potent than a bottle that's been sitting in a drawer for months. Also, don't eat the glue and don't glue yourself to the model. Is that everything? I think that's everything.

For the base:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OSJ2RIW/

For the column:
https://www.amazon.com/Non-Stick-Silicone-Containers-Storage-Assorted/dp/B07CVWY3YY/

To put it together:
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-15-Clear/dp/B001IY82FM

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1UPES2QIS7N6M&keywords=gorilla+super+glue&qid=1556923885&s=gateway&sprefix=gorilla&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I use a pin vice to drill the holes; I use wire (any kind will work; I've used sewing pins, paper clips, wire from a spool, piano wire... really, whatever I have within arms reach) for pinning. For the glue, I use Gorilla's Super Glue.

If I'm pinning a metal or resin model, during assembly (I don't worry about pinning plastic as it's usually light enough that plastic glue holds it together just fine), I drill my first holes, then I use a larger drill bit to flare out the entry points, so i have some wiggle room. This generally isn't needed when pinning to a base, but it helps if you want a very specific footing and you're not confident in your drilling.

That is -hilarious-. I put Gorilla Glue on my wishlist 2 days ago, because I'm looking to make my own magnetic spice-jars.. SWEET! I totally don't mind either the glue, or the magnets would be awesome, or even just a gift card to start me off saving!

guerilla gorillas

Cufflink Backs + Superglue.

Gorilla Super Glue 15 Gram, Clear

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9.AACbVWTGVKZ

http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM

I'd just glue the magnet back on, but maybe that's just me.

Thanks yeah, it's mostly the removal of the old glue from the shafts that I'm most concerned with. I actually have one of those stripper doodads and it stripped the old glue off my shafts pretty well, but I'm concerned that some of the cyanos that dry rock solid could be a huge pain to remove.

Is the glue you're using this stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-15-g/dp/B001IY82FM

Yeah, that 3M adhesive on the back of 5050 LED strips is pretty much garbage.

I just used a dot of super glue every 8 inches or so:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-15-g/dp/B001IY82FM/

Don't use too much superglue. It would be a bitch to remove if you ever need to.