Best automotive air conditioning products according to redditors
We found 144 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive air conditioning products. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It's called an accumulator tank, here is an example for an RV. https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B000N9VF6Q
That's the heater core control valve. (Part# 74777)
amazon, autozone, advance auto, oreilly
Beautiful car, and great photos!
Clear side markers are available here, and install in minutes.
Also, if you need to temporarily attach a front license plate when parking (e.g. street parking in VA cities), these work well.
Enjoy your new ride, and I hope the break-in period goes quickly!
They also have hideaway plates that attach to the underside of your front end. I forget the prices, like $50 for the regular option. $150-ish for the motorized, remote controlled mount.
http://www.hidetheplates.com
You can also get four pack of tiny suction cups for $4 to attach the plate to the inside of your windshield. Just make sure it's not obscured or tucked into anything, must be readily and easily visible. I always kept mine just high enough so that it appeared directly above my resting wiper blade.
http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA
Then I just stopped rocking a front plate all together. No problems in two years. <3 you Texas.
Maybe consider a diesel heater that would probably only cost a $1-$2 a day to run in cold conditions. A lot easier than propane and uses little electricity.
Here is what I use. I take my 08 WK Hemi on the beach, air down from 33 psi to about 13-15 psi. It takes about 2 minutes per tire to get back up to 33 psi when I leave.
Hose & cord is plenty long, however I bought a 6 foot hose extension just in case.
It gets hot, I bought a nice canvas bag to keep it in, I've had no issues with the heat besides accidentally touching it and getting a little burn.
Compressor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Extension Hose - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ELJD0BW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bag - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFNJEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i have a 92 ranger that was in the same situation, its unlikely the refrigerant was stolen, most likely leaked out as these systems are nearly 30 years old
i was able to purchase a vacuum pump, gauge set and can tap on ebay pretty cheap.
i replaced the compressor, dryer, orifice tube and ALL of the o-rings in the system. If I were to do this again, I would also purchase something like this https://www.amazon.com/AirSept-91025-Ford-Filter-Plate/dp/B07NHPWBTT
Pulled a vacuum for an hour and then fed in the new refrigerant until the system was full to the calculated amount.
I did not use R12 or R134a, but used http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_refintro.html In the united states I believe you can buy r134a over the counter, probably a better choice.
All in, this cost me about $400 canadian and I have had it working for 2 years now.
I'm not Big Al, but here's my two cents.
Awesome!
As a pro-tip, some people complain that the lowest setting on the HMW is still too intense for them. There are two common methods of dealing with this.
The first is simply to drape a washcloth over your clitoris to act as a mechanical damper. You'd likely want to use something soft, fairly thick, and I'd recommend wetting it with warm water, which will both make it a more efficient mechanical damper and serve to relax the muscles surrounding your pubic area.
The second is to use a voltage controller, commonly a fan-speed controller like this one, to vary the voltage reaching the HMW. While some users have advocated this method, I've looked into the theory along with other users, and it was inconclusive whether the motor used in the HMW can be safely or effectively regulated through voltage modulation. Be aware that if you attempt this, you definitely run the risk of potentially burning out the motor of your HMW, and if left unattended, it could even potentially cause a fire.
If you want to be particularly adventuresome, there are also a number of aftermarket (third-party) heads that are sold as attachments for the HMW. Certainly worth looking into if you think you might be the kind of girl that prefers vaginal stimulation to clitoral stimulation.
Best of luck to you!
Ninja-Edit: Definitely thought I was posting this to /r/sex based on the subject matter. If you have any questions, success stories, etc., I would highly recommend posting them over there. It's an absolutely amazing, knowledgeable, supportive, and accepting community where you can seek advice or merely share in the knowledge that there are lots of people in the same boat as you. Following that sub changed my sex life, and arguably my life as a whole.
Check out Kat's. They sell several different types of oil and block heaters, including a magnetic one that you just pop onto your oil pan. I've read about people using them on air-cooled cars with good results. Kudos to you for driving a Ghia through the winter!
Edit: They also have glue-on pads like this, which are basically the same type of heaters we use on the aircraft engines I build.
Mine is currently broken at 13k miles. Since I've still got warranty I'll get it replaced by the dealer, but I've been looking around for a better replacement since I'm sure it'll go out again. This Dorman one was mentioned in another thread, can anyone confirm whether its sturdier or not?
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2
I have heard of that issue before but I have not experienced it with my
Speedster Step Less Fan Controller on either my old VenTech or my new Vortex.
I don’t own this beautiful car yet, but from what I gathered they are using this they suctioned it to the windshield, don’t think it would scratch anything.
I have this one.
But it's a bit bulky to carry, so I bought this one to take on trips which is much more convenient and still carrys plenty of plugs and the tools needed to fit one.
If I ever use the plugs in the more portable one I can simply replace them with the ones from the other kit. And it means I don't have to carry a compressor as the CO2 will be enough to get me to a garage with a pump.
I have 1600W in an 8x4 tent cooled with a single 440 CFM inline fan - so yes, it should be quite sufficient for a single 600W. You may want to also get the suggested router speed controller, since 440 CFM may be overkill on full power.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/
They sell the same controller at Harbor Freight for $20.
No, I just used the regular housing gasket.
Oh yeah, I had a tough time bleeding my car for some reason. I ended up using this tool to bleed it. If you have access to an air compressor, this or this cheaper one would work better. With the funnel, there's no BMW adapter, so I had to make one out of an old cap by drilling a hole with step bit.
Ahh, heating issues, sometimes very easy, sometimes the most difficult thing to do on a car.
There are many things that can cause your heater to not work.
Firstly, most heater issues are caused by low coolant or trapped air in the system so fill it to the rim and burp it. If its low, its going somewhere, so find it.
Next, its often the heater valve, the mixers, wiring or vac lines. (I doubt your car has vacuum controlled conditioning system though)
But, if you have narrowed it down to the core its self, first thing to do is to try to blow it out by bringing your engine to redline a few times on the highway. (First thing to do for most issues on a car, "A redline a day keeps the mechanic away") If that doesn't change anything, then its time for a flush. Set the car heat to high, unhook the core inlet and outlet hoses on the engine, then flush and backflush it a few times with a garden hose. If you have low flow, you can pour CLR in the hoses and let it sit for a few hours then flush it again.
If it hasn't had one recently, now is definitely a good time for a full coolant flush too.
Helpful tools I would recommend for the job:
Airlift ~$80 (Very helpful for burping a system)
Coolant System Pressure Tester ~$150 (Helpful for finding leaks and testing the cap)
Refractometer ~$50 (A very helpful tool, especially if you live in a cold climate. It measures the freezing point of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and measures battery acid state)
As far as recycling the coolant, in some counties you can pour it down the drain when properly diluted, but most of the time you have to bring it in to a recycling center.
Good luck! If you have any further questions, ill be around.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Diaphragm-Priming-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B074MZYS37&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj7zcOjgrXiAhWhxlQKHcjHDpsQFjAAegQIBRAC&amp;usg=AOvVaw2CG6WXejhWSatkNrjFgl-G
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B01MVA6GCC&amp;ved=2ahUKEwj6uZq3grXiAhVIl1QKHepiCjEQFjAEegQIAxAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw0p7IxyCFGVv0hAILggLjyL
I have read into them a bit. I think a gallon of diesel lasts about 8 hours. all exhaust is routed outside of the cabin (obviously) but the unit goes inside so you would need to cut holes in the camper.
https://www.amazon.com/Caravan-Motor-Homes-Thermostat-Monitor-Silencer/dp/B07JB7QZWZ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=diesel+heater&amp;qid=1555515826&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
OEM part is on Amazon also:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TMVRJWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and then a generic filter, take your pic
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5GZL8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I run a Flojet to an accumulator to supply water to my Profitec 700 during coffee popups. Total cost for those two was $160. Add in a few more bucks for the hoses and connectors. The accumulator supplies a steady 30psi ~2bar of line pressure.
Flojet, Accumulator
It's the heater bypass valve.
A lot of people say get rid of it, but it's 16 dollars. Come on. Not like it's that hard to replace.
As someone who lived in Ohio for a few years and doesn't like that ugly license plate on the front of the car, try some of these. I got the OK from a cop for having my front plate mounted visibly at the top of my windshield, but I was up in Chardon so who knows. Great looking car!
Ed: had a few guys chime in to say they've been pulled over for having the front plate in the windshield. Best solution I have is to move to a state that respects cars.
Voltage controller
No affiliate or anything here's there heater: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JB7QZWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The most complicated part was cutting the hole and routing the exhaust. Ya gotta be really careful with the exhaust in that it can't be any longer than what comes with it.. unless you want to swap to a larger diameter pipe. Those things are pretty sensitive to back pressure.
Looks good. I ordered the same, went for the Phidget and a controller.
Only thing I wish I had done was loctite all the screws the FIRST time I did them instead of adding loctite piecemeal now.
They make oil block heaters that are big stickers that attach to the oil pan with a plug that you can run out the front of the vehicle so you can plug it in. A friend of mine did that with his and had no issues. He may have attached an additional one to his transmission pan as well. I would suggest looking on Amazon, but it may be better to look locally with Amazon shipping being what it is to Alaska. Here is an example for what I was talking about, it looks like they have some that screw into the block somewhere so that may be an option as well.
if you want a answer from the author, post to youtube. This is a on off valve, you can pulse the valve, 1 s off, 1 on or 0.5:1 ... if it needed to be smother, look into a water accumulator. You would need to program it also.
Yes, grab this guy if kicking the bottom of your glovebox fixed it
MYSMOT Blower Motor Fan Assembly Fits 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Toyota Prius 1.5L-L4 87103-47020 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q2QJWWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zhNqDb93TZM2Y
I forgot to link you the part.
https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Control-Solenoid-Volkswagen-1K0820803E/dp/B073WP1QC1
Get a hide away plate frame that attaches to your under belly
http://www.pfyc.com/GN1046.html
or these little suction cups (this is what I use) to attach the plate to the inside of you windshield.
http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA
I've used a super ambi lowel kit for years (as a mobile shooter) and they are great lights, if you know how to use them. I shot 4 spots for a major tech company last week and used my 6 light kit to great effect. You can get some gel frames for these lights and use basic diffusion instead of the umbrellas. Grab a couple of these and use them as dimmers: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394512495&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=router+control
It looks like a flexible exhaust tube for one of those 12/24v diesel heaters. https://www.amazon.com/Air-Diesel-Heater-Parking-engineering/dp/B07PYX1TRD/ref=asc_df_B07PYX1TRD/
Putting in an accumulator in the system is probably necessary, it keeps the pump from cycling on and off incessantly.
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B000N9VF6Q for example.
Amazon
Chrysler 68052292AA Air Conditioning Filter Access Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TMVRJWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ERsYBbVF3JMSJ
You can use any filter I went with Wix part# 24578
When I got everything I spent about 25 bucks. Disregard that it says it does not fit your truck. It does its basing it off the Trim level.
They make [suction cups for the front window] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UkqGAbB4P6RE4), if that's your worry.
I put suction cups on a plate holder. I pull this out only when using metered parking (which is fortunately only a few times a month).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00032KBEA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CV5PLFM
Blend door actuator. Get it replaced under warranty and do it again later or buy the Dorman unit. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2
Had the same problem this spring. Did some digging and there are tons of other Fit owners with the same problem that almost universally cited the blower motor and/or blower motor resistor. Dealership quoted me $450 for the repair ($250 parts, $200 labor). Ended up replacing both myself for about $65. The whole process took about 15 minutes.
It is not a remotely complicated repair, but both parts are located in an awkward place if you aren't a tiny person. They're both accessed by removing the tiny panel under the glove box or the box itself. Only ONE tool is required, which is a Philips head screwdriver, but I'd recommend using one with a very short handle to get at the resistor's screws (mine was about 2.5-3" long).
Blower Motor on Amazon
Resistor on Amazon
Was very glad to get my AC back in time for summer without dumping an unnecessary $390!
Buy this, and you’ll likely be golden. These fail every few years on these cars. AC Compressor Control Solenoid Valve Fits Volkswagen Jetta Sanden PXE16 PXE14 1K0820803E - VW GTI, Golf, Passat, Tiguan, Jetta TDI and more - Audi A3 - Control Valve, Compressor Pressure Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WP1QC1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_8wvhDbKJ72FVK
Is this the part you had replaced? Because that's a higher quality one, not just a generic one, and it's still only <$50. Or did you get a different part replaced?
Get one of these - they are cheap and totally worth it.
I had a TD-100 (100 CFM) that wasn't powerful enough to really pull through my 200 CFM-rated Phresh carbon can.
Also, the TD-100, even on high setting, would barely turn on unless the fan speed controller was dialed almost to maximum speed.
I replaced the TD-100 with a TD-150 (300 CFM, 6", big brother). That thing works GREAT with the speed control.
I suspect your TD-125 will be fine with the speed control, esp. if you rewire it to the faster setting internally.
Worth the $20 or so, hands down.
The best starting place is to get your compressors model number, mine is a sanden compressor and this is what the model number should look like on the label: https://i.imgur.com/T6bfZuF.jpg
&#x200B;
It is the 1K0820859Q line, that will ensure you get the correct RCV, here is the one I needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC6GZSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
In the product description it lists the compatible models of compressors for this one.
My old-battery car takes some finger-crossing to start at -10, and is practically un-startable at -20... unless I have had my oil pan heater on for about 2 to 4 hours. Otherwise, the oil's just too thick to let the engine turn over effectively.
You're, correct that this isn't related to the A/C. It's just the cabin air system and it's an easy repair. It's mounted under the dash (passenger side). The only difficult part is that its slightly awkward to reach. If you push the seat as far back as it goes and lay on your back (half your body out of the car), it makes it easier to do. Should take about 10-15 mins to do. 5 mins if you've done it before.
/u/civicjohn is also correct. Here is the part you need:
amazon link. The highest speed is a direct passthrough with no resistance. The resistor reduces the power for speeds 1-3 (more resistance/less power for lower speeds). When the built-in fuse in the resistor trips, the fan will only run on the high setting.
If this doesn't work, or the resistor fails again or the air seems to blow weakly, then its the blower motor: amazon link. If the air is weak, then the bearings in the blower motor are bad. This could explain why the resistor blew. Unfortunately the bearings in the blower motor are not serviceable so the blower motor would need to be replaced. The good news is replacing this is just as easy as replacing resistor. Same area, 3 screws.
The resistor is about $20-$25 and the fan motor (aftermarket) is about $55 from Amazon. A Genuine Honda fan motor is really expensive. Something like $450 or in that neighborhood if I'm remembering correctly. If you insist on Genuine Honda factory parts, it's worth checking a junkyard if you have one nearby. BTW, a really short screwdriver is really handy.
Probably more info than you need but if you're like me, I like to know how things work and why they fail. It may also make the repair less daunting for those who may be a little timid about tinkering with their car. Hope this helps.
.
^the ^blower ^motors ^are ^known ^to ^be ^somewhat ^troublesome.
At some point in life, you'll eventually learn that cutting corners costs more in the long run. Buy quality gear so it won't have to be replaced again.
https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-554-144-Fresh-Gallons-Minute/dp/B00C1M6B1C/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9VF6Q/
Make sure you get the Dorman brand ones or you will be replacing them again. This is a stronger part that fixed the issues with the OE ones. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2
I've done my own, and gotten a couple of thousand miles out of the tyre before wearing out the tyre. That was in a Fazer 6 S2. Your only on a 125 and it looks like a prime candidate for a plug.
Amazon - Silverline Tyre-Repair-Kit
Decent instruction video here
https://youtu.be/9dSrHKXyHJ8
Car Heater,CHELIYA Portable 12V 200W 2 in 1 Auto Car Heater Cooling Fan Defroster Defrost Windscreen Window Demister https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J26MSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_54sMDb94258DW
Cruiser Accessories 78410 Suction Cups, Clear, 4 pack – approx. 1” each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vG3Hzb2CWADSZ
They fit perfectly in the Model S front plate plastic holder, not sure if it works on other cars.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV5PLFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
and this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
in the corner of my windshield. Might be an alternative for you.
I'm in California by the way.
The screw-on pumps of days gone by were much easier to use on tricky valves (bikes, cars, mowers, whatever) than the current clamp-ons. An Air Extension Hose is a handy accessory to alleviate the problem. Clamp one end in the chuck and screw the other onto the valve in question.
The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.
It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).
The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)
I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).
I bought suction cups for my license plate so it's suctioned to my front windshield. I got rear ended not too long ago and it didn't move at all. Just my $0.02
Edit: These. They cost $2 and they work really good.
https://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1/138-0897253-5765706?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495958756&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=suction+cup+for+license+plate
Agreed. Audis look stupid with front plates -- haven't used one for 10 years. But you can't park on the street in DC without a meter maid waddling by and seeing an easy ticket. On the rare occasions I have to, this sticks my plate in the window.