(Part 2) Best automotive engine parts according to redditors

already exists

If replacing this sensor costs $1000, you might need to find a new shop. They are slightly more difficult than an oil change on the ones I've seen.

I'd rather replace that than drop a pan to hammer out the rest of a dipstick tube that broke flush with the block.

You can probably buy a universal one that fits in there for services. Every Audi/VW tech that I've ever met has one, for example. There's more than likely still a dipstick tube somewhere, you just might have to find it. I never depended on the onboard electronic level sensors when I worked at Audi. Still need VAGCOM (or equivalent) to clear out some of the reminders, though.

Motor mount / torque dampener. The knobbish part is probably a harmonic dampener for some vibration frequency.

Edit: Looks like it's also referred to as a torque strut in some aftermarket catlogs. Here it is on Prime for $20.

I replaced mine with a Fumoto drain valve. 100% worth it. It made my last oil change so easy, the only tools I needed were to take off the lower covers.

Edit: Looks like the OEM drain plug is 9L8Z-6730-A.

Edit2: For anyone looking to buy a Fumoto drain valve, I purchased this: F107SX Valve, Adapter/Extension, Hose Kit, and Cap.

The hose kit and cap aren't required (actually, Ford lost my cap when I had them install it while it was in for a recall), but the extension is required for our cars.

I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.

Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link

Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.

3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.

Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.

Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.

Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.

Ignore the title.... and the wron measurements in the picture lol. This is by far the cheapest and most useful mod on my car, the only thing not "name brand" and i absolutely love it. I have 0 regrets.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNZG5KY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thanks! Last question for now....what are your thoughts on these? Seems pretty straightforward and risk free to me:

1. https://afepower.com/afe-power-77-16204-sprint-booster-power-converter
   
   
2. Fits Jeep Grand Cherokee - High-Performance Tuner Chip and Power Tuning Programmer - Boost Horsepower and Torque https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SFXLWKB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vfT2DbS1FDCD0

I put one of these in mine.

https://www.amazon.com/Commander-Throttle-Controller-Bluetooth-2007-2017/dp/B07NDXYN3R/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=pedal+commander+pc+29&qid=1572533430&s=automotive&sr=1-2-fkmr0

It's not snake oil it actually works. It does NOT create horsepower. It just takes some of the drive by wire lag out of the system. Definitely more responsive off the stop and feel more like the power it should have based on the specs. MPG takes a small hit. I run it on basic city mode and mine is the older non bluetooth model. So it was cheaper. I run 180 miles a day down I25 in CO for my commute and it was worth every penny to me to not feel like I was going to get run over anymore. Sport modes are fun to play with for 30 seconds but it's not a sports car so it just makes it really jerky.

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Edit: I had a 95 XJ with the 4.0 and based on the patriots 175hp rating and XJ 195hp rating I always felt the Patriot should feel more responsive. Now it does.

Sounds like it's off time.

There is no key way on either intake (vvt) or exhaust sprocket. Tightening the bolt with cams mechanically locked with a flat bar in those slots is your intake at number 1 on compression.

There's a 10mm head bolt just under hanger bearing for axle on back of block that you have to put a threaded pin into to lock number 1 crank at tdc.

Finally a 6mm bolt will go through crank dampener and thread into timing cover at 6 o'clock, then you can unbolt crank pulley bolt and remove crank pulley as it has no key way either...

https://www.amazon.ca/Assenmacher-ASMFM2330-Piece-Mazda-Timing/dp/B009SB70N2

That's the tool set you need (you need the smaller flat bar and the pin, the weird looking one is for a turbo 2.3)

Best thing to do is get it retimed and check to see if your code comes back. The VVt units went bad on the turbo 2.3's.... pm me if you have more questions

I had one that I took off when I removed my damaged skid plates. Once I put skid plates back on, i'll likely put it back on.

Removed it because I didn't want to have problems where I ripped it off while on the trails.

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EDIT: In addition, the one you linked wont work for the v6. The tab will get stuck and you wont be able to thread it on completely, You'll want to get the 90* fumoto valve.

Here's a direct link to the one I purchased and used while my skids were on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HP5V10A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On an NB1 the leak might also be due to this guy having the seal wear out on it.

Watch this video to see what I'm talking about. It's definitely leaking on mine and I'm getting ready to replace this along with the valve gasket cover myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96FE

There are stick on and magnetic temperature strips that utilize this.

$50 and it has the single hand hose clamp release included.

BETOOLL 9pcs Wire Long Reach Hose Clamp Pliers Set Fuel Oil Water Hose Auto Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9RSU9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kIvBDbNN1290Z

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Turbo-Reverse-Rotation-Turbochargers/dp/B07P6F715T

If you are adverse to Heli-Coils, you could use one of {these.]

Sorry, URL won't hide.Prens or slashes I suspect.
https://www.amazon.com/ECO-PLUG-DAMAGED-Aluminum-14mm-18mm-Diameter/dp/B01LX3CGZ3/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3/141-0466609-4761660?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LX3CGZ3&pd_rd_r=4314b34b-9f9e-11e9-b8cb-31d1039f00d9&pd_rd_w=m2tfm&pd_rd_wg=JUiQ3&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=K8439CSMBC1M0238YXA9&psc=1&refRID=K8439CSMBC1M0238YXA9).

Check your local auto parts store for a repair kit, this has happened before

https://www.amazon.com/ECO-PLUG-DAMAGED-Aluminum-14mm-18mm-Diameter/dp/B01LX3CGZ3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=threadless+magnetic+drain+plug&qid=1570855377&sr=8-3

For when you get the plug out, I’ve never used one myself but it looks like it would work well.

Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96FE

There is rubber in the middle. Tighten it down and the rubber expands, sealing off the hole. These are commonly used for oil pans with stripped threads.

https://www.amazon.com/Twin-Intercooler-Upgrade-Silicone-Volkswagen/dp/B07DNZG5KY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2KUNVSXXNUR3J&keywords=mk7+gti+intercooler&qid=1572322561&s=automotive&sprefix=mk7+gti+inter%2Cautomotive%2C-1&sr=1-4

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Is it this one?

I don't have a picture right now but it's located under the car on the passenger side where the turbocharger is. I'm thinking the easiest way to access the solenoid is the jack up the passenger side of the car, remove the wheel and splash guard and have at it that way.

Here is the Wastegate solenoid withe hoses attached

And here is the Bypass Solenoid

> damaged bolt remover

I had heard of these things (even watched a video). Can you recommend a manufacturer/brand? i see mixed reviews for all the ones I found so far. I do see they come in two basic types. Fluted angled, or sort of snow-flakish straight sided?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PNWMFH/
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-22967-Busting-Extractor-Socket/dp/B01ELYPLHM/

Your best bet for a stripped hex socket would be a screw extractor like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKLBFWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K4a7CbMVWYCNE
You should be able to find them at almost any local hardware store.

Edit: you said nut and bolt, but I don’t have an ender so I’m not exactly sure which you need, but if it is a nut you would need something like this instead (if you can’t just grab it with vise-grips): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ELYPLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g7a7Cb5K6M01B
It should also be available at most any hardware store.

Although, I have not purchased this yet, it is in my cart for my next oil change. With it, you can attach a hose to the plug and it will direct the oil directly in the disposal container. I feel like it is going to make oil changes a much more pleasant experience

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AMXAVX0/?coliid=IXENUG68AZZYJ&colid=QSUTONY162IF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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I have a different pan that doesn't splash. Maybe if you inserted a large funnel in the hole, raised the pan and placed the pan such that the initial fast stream hit the funnel there would be no splashing. You could make a large funnel by cutting the bottom off of a gallon jug of oil (or milk, etc)

BETOOLL 9pcs Wire Long Reach Hose Clamp Pliers Set Fuel Oil Water Hose Auto Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9RSU9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NX8TCbEM0B167

Supercrazy M13 X 1.5MM Oil Pan Drain Plug Thread Repair Tool Kit SF0087B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V0R7KQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9ZVJKNF9USKss

This worked well for me on an x5 with aluminum pan. Use some Teflon tape on the drain plug and you should be fine.

Anyone have any idea what is leaking in this photo? Have a slow rear main seal oil leak, and after flushing my cooling system and replacing the radiator I have been losing coolant as well. Cant find any coolant drips, replaced the radiator cap and it didn't change anything. Think I removed some stop leak during the flush, just want to know what might be leaking. Location is under the throttle body.

https://imgur.com/a/9Hkiw

UPDATE - Found source of coolant leak, added photo. Must be the seal and/or the heater hoses back there. Not sure what those parts are called

UPDATE 2 - Was mistaken regarding leak, seems to be oil, not dried coolant. Brought to mechanic, lifted the car up. Couldn't identify any leaks, assuming it could be air bleeding out of the system since I replaced the Radiator with an Aluminum Ebay one. Suggested Cam Angle Sensor O ring

Only problem is the cam angle sensor O ring doesn't exist on the 1999-2005 NBs, from what I can find

Found this video regarding it, same symptoms. Going to order a sensor cap off of amazon and try it out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LI7uMQTTe3k

https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-KLG4-12-603-Engine-Camshaft-Plug/dp/B00KWEFAJ0#customerReviews

EWK Oil Dipstick Tool for 2009 Porsche VW Audi A4 A5 A6 AU40178 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ41GKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7ulyCbJQ08X6J

I believe that is the tool you need

Oh, good call, I forgot about the timing of the 2.3 engines. A tool set like this one http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-ASMFM2330-Piece-Mazda-Timing/dp/B009SB70N2 is needed

Pretty important. You really don't want the engine rattling around in there and putting all that vibrational stress on everything. Fortunately, they're cheap and easy to replace.

Thanks man, it has been bugging the shit out of me.
edit: im guessing it is something like this http://www.amazon.com/ENGINE-SENSOR-HELLA-Germany-1261-7508-003/dp/B003NE119O

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00368PEQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482302497&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mishimoto+intercooler&dpPl=1&dpID=31-vnThFlYL&ref=plSrch

This link

Here is the desktop version of your link

A temperature gauge stuck to the side of the tank can show the liquid level by the way it holds the cold but the gaseous part warms. I've never used one but here's an example

https://www.amazon.com/GrillPro-00030-Magnetic-Level-Indicator/dp/B000FHZ33C