(Part 2) Best automotive lubricants according to redditors

I ended up buying this one from Amazon. It should last 3-5,000 years. It's way overkill, but when you start finding other uses for it around the house I suppose it's nice to have plenty of it.

When I have my ratchets apart, I lubricate them with dry assembly lube like CRC-Graphite-Lube-Aerosol-Black.

The advert B.S. says it's "dirt repelling". In reality, dirt doesn't stick to it - like it does to oil and grease.

So buy ten lifetime's supply: https://www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-No-130-aa-L0044-035-Calcium/dp/B00N79H6JY

J-Lube doesn't really taste very good, but neither does any other lube. It is slightly sweeter than cum lube because it contains a bit of sucrose.

By itself it's pretty much a clear lube, but you can make it white the same way BD does. Just mix in a bit of fine powdered TiO2

The easiest way to mix it would probably be to do it in large batches mixing the powder into hot water using a blender.

On a cool bike ( not warmed up), I spray the bike liberally with this stuff and I have a soft bristle brush to hit some areas like the front of the engine, I let it sit for a few minutes and then I hose it off, not with the pressure washer. I found as you use this product or it works better over time.

S100 12001B Total Cycle Cleaner Bottle - 33.8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJX6IM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.eZvCbM9SCW6W

Once or twice a year I spray it with this, since I have road salt in the northeast.

ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Lubricant Formula - 32 oz Bottle (.95 Ltr) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G42NR7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jiZvCbCA6PB6P


Happy trails....

Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize

Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance

Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.

Boeshield

They do
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-51003-Anti-Seize-12Oz-Aerosol/dp/B00FXTML5U

O2 compatible lube such as this - https://www.amazon.com/CHRISTO-LUBE-MCG-111-oz-Tube/dp/B00BIQ7SD2

From my experience, they all have about the same longevity. The homeowner can do two things to extend the life of their unit:

(A) Flush the heater. Mineral buildup is a fact of life, and it reduces both the capacity and the ability of the unit to heat the water. Flushing it out on a yearly basis can help insure that you are getting the most out of your unit.

(B) Anodes. Each unit has a sacrificial anode screwed into the top of it. It's a long rod that is made from a metal alloy with a more "active" voltage (more negative electrochemical potential) than the metal of the tank it is protecting (the cathode). The difference in potential between the two metals means the sacrificial anode material corrodes in preference to the tank. This effectively stops the oxidation reactions inside the water heater.

Before you install the new heater, it would pay to remove the anode and coat the threads with Never-Seez compound. When it comes time to replace the anode, it will be a simple 15 minute job:

https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NSBT-8-Regular-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B000KZCU26

A plumber I know confided that a six year water heater and a 12 year unit are the same thing. Only difference is in the thickness and number of anodes. Sounds plausible......

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

https://youtu.be/79Qo-806n9g

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NU77DA/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

There ya go.

Sears Craftsman 4 pc. Spark Plug Socket Set, 3/8 in. drive
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-pc-spark-plug-socket-set-3-8/p-00934504000P

ToolTopia: Sunex Tools (SUN8844)
4 Piece 3/8" Drive Universal Spark Plug Socket Set

http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-8844.aspx

Anti-seize compound For most cars the recommendation is to put a dab of anti-seize compound or a couple drops of engine oil on the threads. Personally I always use Loctite silver anti-seize compound. Always.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37539-Silver-Grade-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0006Q7H2M

Watch one of the youtube channel "south main auto" and see what Eric does on the brake pads. You want to be sure to coat the brake pads shims in grease . This is the one that everyone recommends . Some people say the purple stuff he uses swells rubber but he hasn't personally seen this. It goes without saying but do not put this on your brake pads material that makes contact with the rotors.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80653-Silicone-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B01MTNJ08Z/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543463123&sr=8-4&keywords=permatex+brake+caliper+lubricant

If you know how to get the tires off, you can switch rotors yourself. Once the wheels are off, the rotor is only fixed by a single locating bolt. See this video for a visual reference

That bolt may be pretty stuck though because of the heat and may require some heating to get it loose. It makes sense to get some copper paste to treat the threads of all bolts so it doesn't happen again. Copper paste is literally the only stuff you should use around your brakes as grease or oil aren't an option. It prevents surfaces from seizing and makes for easier disassembly.

I desperately need this chain lube for my car and while we are at it, this cabin filter for my car. Where's the aspirin?? Thanks for the contest!!!!

I've been using these:

Chain Lube: http://amzn.com/B000HBGKTW
Chain Clean: http://amzn.com/B001AI9L0G

3-IN-ONE All-Temperature Silicone Drip Oil 4 oz

Amazon

Actually, Never Seez works really good for this. It won't harm anything, but she probably won't notice it for a while, and it will get EVERYWHERE. It's just graphite, though.

Agree with paco on the strap wrenches. They have gotten me out of every stuck suppressor part scenario so far. Absolute worst case, you can always contact Rugged CS and they will take care of you.

Once you get everything apart I would recommend a small tube of nickel based anti seize. Just a little on the threads goes a long way.

Permatex 77134

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NJOEAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UFs3Db95C5ZPV

> And putting some sort of lube on it would probably wear down the tension faster than normal

it should wear out slower, because there's less friction working to grind up the surfaces where they meet.

> I feel like that would eventually leak into the base and mess it up.

I could see it leaking into the base if too much lube is applied. It probably wouldn't need more than 2 or 3 drops. If you want to be extra safe, use an electronics lubricant that indicates it is safe to use with plastics, like this one. I haven't used that one, specifically, so treat it as an example rather than a recommendation

If there’s some crap in there that won’t blow out, next step would be electronics lubricant:
Max Professional 4125 Electronics Lubricant, 11 oz. - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030MPJ8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GyuWAbGAQE58T

I started using the special Magic ford stuff

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-Fluid-XG-8-Lubricant/dp/B000NU77DA

It does work really well and it smooths out the clunk.

I would say fixing my ujoints made a larger difference. They do wear out and are kind of a pain to fix and adjust. 180k on a driveshaft is a lot and things do wear out.

It's a subject like how one properly installs new rear axle seals, pretty sure people have argued that one up and down on the forums.

For someone who touts using the correct tool all the time, watching that made me want to punch him. Use a piston ring compressor, piston ring tool, and a proper valve spring tool. He should also be giving up on his clean hands and put some oil on various parts of the engine while reassembling.