(Part 2) Best automotive replacement ignition parts according to redditors

These will fix that: XtremeVision LED Anti Flicker Capacitors - Error Code Canceller Capacitor (1 Pair) - H11 / 880 / H9 / H8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y3PTHHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_aRkFDb9H22264.

Worked perfectly for me.

C Light - https://www.diodedynamics.com/2015-2019-subaru-wrx-sti-c-light-switchback-led-halos.html

Halos - https://www.diodedynamics.com/hd-led-halos-for-2015-2019-subaru-wrx-wrx-sti-pair.html

Blinker Module - https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-flasher-for-2015-2019-subaru-wrx.html (Needed this because I removed my stock blinker lights. Could have wired in resistors, but this was easy and cheap)

LED Conversion Bulbs - https://www.diodedynamics.com/low-beam-led-headlight-for-2015-2019-subaru-wrx.html (Still waiting on these, so haven't tested them, but they'll be in this Friday)

Headlight Sealant - https://www.amazon.com/RetroRubber-Grade-Butyl-Headlight-Sealant/dp/B01N5PM29J

Harnesses to clean up wiring - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QFW8X9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Haven't installed yet, but planning on tomorrow)

Used to seal the hole of the old C Light bulb. Ran the C Light and Halo Harness through here - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Permatex-3-oz-Black-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant-75150/302775053

Used to hold Halo in - https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-0-47-oz-ClearWeld-50114H/303710929 (There's other ways to do this, but this is what I chose)

Paint I used - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-15-oz-Flat-Black-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-25-Bonus-336099/304221900

I also got the Subispeed harnesses, but I didn't use them because I deleted the stock turn signal bulb.

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And I think that's it. Be sure to wear nitrile gloves too to avoid finger prints.

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Also take your time. Don't paint the high beam housing unless you have another plan for those like a second projector.

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Any other questions or pictures let me know.

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(Side note, this is probably not done for me and I'll probably post more if I do more with these. Thinking about changing the bumper cover holes where the turn signals were for instance)

73 was the first year with electronic ignition, but it might have points if it was delivered to the coach builder in 72. The 30 dollar option is simply replacing the ignition module. the modules go bad often enough that mopar guys usually carry a spare.

If you can confirm that it's just a no-spark issue and you don't feel like troubleshooting, you can drive it home laughing by un-doing one bolt from inside the van (the dizzy is located between the seats, literally!) and installing an all-in-one HEI distributor and hooking one wire to battery positive. That's all you need to do for a 'complete rewire of the ignition system'. In any case, expect a performance upgrade for the price of a tank of gas.

That kinda looks like the connectors i have on my 92 nighthawk, and found that these connectors worked perfectly! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJGRD8J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v7JTCbERPHG2Z

Oh, you need all of them? You can simply buy a box of connectors: example.

You should try talking to the seller if you bought that new, they can probably send you them. Here's one of the big ones.

You will need inline resistors to solve your problem, more than likely. The go between the headlight socket and the headlight. The manufacturer offers them.

LEDs require much less power than halogen bulbs do, so it throws everything out of whack. The linked part should solve your problem.

Original COPs made it ~200k miles, not bad. Definitely no need to spend $30 each on Motorcraft replacement COPs!

I bought this package:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NRP1KH/

I'm not married to Motorcraft spark plugs, but it was a pretty good deal, and convenient to get everything in one box.

There was some weird stuff on my old plugs that wasn't carbon. It was white, rather than black, and some plugs had more of it than others. I took photos, and I'd like to figure out what that was so I can keep it from happening again.

https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Control-Module-10494012-Pontiac/dp/B078Z2JK4M

DFI or ICM as it's also known!


We just call it DFI here, even to order it from dealership.

This is the one I was looking at.


https://www.amazon.com/SHUmandala-STATOR-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-Replace/dp/B07MGFC1ZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=2006+gsxr+stator&qid=1556659296&s=gateway&sr=8-7

After some testing, come to find out that my fuse had blown. I believe both my stator and ignition coil are bad. I'm getting this "CDI" (TCI) https://www.amazon.com/QUIOSS-Manco-Talon-Linhai-Bighorn/dp/B01MXFGLR5/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=8+Pin+CDI+Yamaha&qid=1566793139&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=automotive&sr=1-1 , This stator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0M7UIU/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1U821NO27576X , and ignition coil https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M5RNXXC/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16CYTN3L0RHD9 . You can't use just any GY6 ignition coil, it has to be TCI compatible. A common identifier for a TCI compatible ignition coil is that it's grounded by two screws.

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The wiring diagram is found here https://atvconnection.com/forums/attachments/1-engine-problems/6556d1345695123-linhai-300cc-no-spark-buyang300_wd.jpg . On my bike there is no pink wire, its instead Black/Blue. The pinout to the CDI (TCI) https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41p65nxdWsL.jpg. The "Trigger" are the wires coming from the stator which in my case are Blue/Yellow & Black/Red. Not sure which one is plus or minus. I think plus is Black/Red and vice versa (Take that with a grain of salt). Battery (Killswitch) is Blue/Black. Ignition coil is Yellow/Black. Ground is Green. The other 3 pins are not used. The Yellow/Black to the ignition coil needs to be on the left pin (with the screw upright) and the Killswitch/Battery wire to the right.

If you don't have a compatible harness you can crimp on these 2.8mm spade connectors https://www.amazon.com/s?k=2.8+spade+connectors&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 . Maybe after you confirm that everything works you can hot glue them in place.

I hope this helps someone.

On the bright side, that led me to https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-GT-150-Female-Terminals-Gauge/dp/B07JMJ9CH1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Aptiv+%28formerly+Delphi%29+gt+150&qid=1554329491&s=gateway&sr=8-3 which I'm fine with buying a lot of the connectors as there's another project I've really yet to begin that will need those extra ones...

Now for the socket =/

Edit: Oh and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K006QS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the crimper (I think).

Did you ever try a load equalizer on the led or something like AnyCar Led Headlight Decoder 9005 9006 9012 Canbus Resistor Anti-flicker Harness Headlight Bulb Decoder for LED Headlight Warning (9005/HB3/H10/9006/HB4/9012/HIR2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLWFCGP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s3BDCbA44KSD8

So I was mistaken, no "2" on the top of my coils. These are the ones I have




https://www.amazon.com/6M8G-12A366-Ignition-Mazda-Miata-UF540/dp/B07BQMGQNB

Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Key For Honda CR-V Element Pilot Accord Pilot Acura MDX RDX TSX ZDX TL 06351-TE0-A11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KZW77L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o78iDbERW4X1T

It's not hard but time consuming. The more time you spend perfecting it the better it will be. Just take your time and it will be fine.

It's a 2 stroke so you have to mix 2 cycle oil in with normal gas. I run mine at 25:1 but when it was new i ran it at 16:1(more oil)

Off the bat I would replace the stock chain with a #41 so it doesn't derail as much.

Replace the stock spark plug with a NGK B6HS

Diablo ituner - change your shift points. Disable AFM, tons of different things you can do with this thing


DiabloSport 8245 inTune i3 Platinum Performance Programmer 3rd Generation inTune inTune i3 Platinum Performance Programmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075CFJNPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5-trDbYVVNESR

It’s all good. You can plug and unplug it whenever you want. Shouldn’t leave any sort of ‘footprint’ on your truck as far as warranty is concerned. Here is a link to the one I bought Range Technology AFM Disable Device Yellow (yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VHGJHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WrvPCb5CRTPFG

Yup.

Take off the square side-plate (four screws) and clean the fuel inlet screen and make sure the needle valve is not mired in gunk. Blow some carb cleaner from fuel inlet thru in-tank fuel filter. Make sure the fuel lines or primer line is not hardened or cracked.

Just FYI, these newer carbs have VERY tamper-resistant low/high mix screws. I have rebuilt lots of stuff, can't budge those screws without special tools.

https://www.amazon.com/HIPA-Carburetor-Adjustment-Including-21-Teeth/dp/B06Y2BNQG6

> If you bought it on Amazon you didn't buy it from edge.

That's not always true. There are many sellers on Amazon that ship direct.

Right here is an Insight CS2 on amazon, sold buy edge, No prime so it's not in an amazon wharehouse

Yes, it's an adapter that threads into the cylinder head. Something like this.

Here's a photo of the spark plug and plug wire from the last time this happened.

I'm going to try and get the anti-fouler out this week, someone else also recommended that and that I could then put a new spark plug in and check it after a day or two of driving to see if it's really getting fouled. Said it might be possible to fix by replacing valve stem seals. My current set of sockets won't fit the anti-fouler but I'm assuming the auto parts shop will have something that'll work.

Does it look like this? http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42002-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B0002JMS6I/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31F4GM8S3WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1M5AWSS776KA66FJ8FDD

http://www.amazon.com/NGK-B6HS-Spark-Plug-Pack/dp/B0000BXHSP

The type is NGK B6HS. Taken straight from the moped army page. I betcha the'll have an equivalent at the auto parts store if you don't want to order from amazon.