(Part 2) Best car engine cooling & climate parts according to redditors
We found 365 Reddit comments discussing the best car engine cooling & climate parts. We ranked the 232 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
That's the heater core control valve. (Part# 74777)
amazon, autozone, advance auto, oreilly
I agree with framerotblues - it looks like it should be a part of the pump assy, but they don't sell pump internals, so it's hard to tell. fwiw, your replacement pump's only $30 at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-WH23X10030-Washing-Machine/dp/B00OMR17TA
That's pretty much the definition of a well pump. About $100 bucks for the cheapest one, which should serve you fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Happybuy-Submersible-0-5HP-Stainless-Industrial/dp/B07JV8B3V2/
It's literally made to be dropped down a well and operate while completely submerged. That tank won't even come close to straining the pump. Even the cheap ones can lift 150 feet.
Heck, if you don't really need pressure or a fast flow, you could even just use a submersible fountain pump.
https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/
That one is $20 and will lift 7 feet, which looks like it might even be enough for your needs.
Edit: You could also get a "transfer pump" for about $50
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Transfer-Utility-Impeller-Gasket/dp/B07R7V1HJW/
It has the advantage that you can actually install it inside the cabin. The disadvantage is that it needs to be primed (filled with water) before it works, and if the hose between the transfer pump and the water source gets air in it, you need to prime it again. So you'll need to install a one-way valve after the pump to ensure water can't drain out. It's also limited to a rise of a maximum of about 33 feet, possibly less depending on the strength of the pump. That's the limit for raising water by pulling it from the top (rather than pushing from the bottom, like submersible pumps do). But, again, that doesn't look like it will be much of a limitation for this specific application.
Here is what I use. I take my 08 WK Hemi on the beach, air down from 33 psi to about 13-15 psi. It takes about 2 minutes per tire to get back up to 33 psi when I leave.
Hose & cord is plenty long, however I bought a 6 foot hose extension just in case.
It gets hot, I bought a nice canvas bag to keep it in, I've had no issues with the heat besides accidentally touching it and getting a little burn.
Compressor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extension Hose - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ELJD0BW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bag - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFNJEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought it from Advance Auto. I don't see it listed now but here is the box/label it came in. Seems like it was about $20 more then the standard new pump. Can't believe I still had the box.
Edit: Here is the pump by part number, apparently the picture isn't accurate or they changed the design, but it still says increased performance and I clearly experienced that.
Is it the 1.4?
https://www.amazon.com/New-Genuine-GM-Outlet-Part/dp/B00YWBQPCA
They can be adjusted with the power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Radiator-Cooling-Assembly-Universal/dp/B01MSIRFPC/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1504458359&sr=8-16&keywords=12v+fan
https://www.amazon.com/QUANS-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Lighting/dp/B00UHI3NGS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504458418&sr=1-7&keywords=12v+power+supply
Don't run an extension cord into your shower.
I'd suggest cutting a piece of coroplast to fit the open window, and then make a round hole in the coroplast to fit something like:
A USB fan run from a phone-recharging battery-pack
An O2COOL battery fan with rechargeable batteries
An automotive aux cooling fan run from a 12v battery pack (such as a pack for radio-control model cars)
if you want a answer from the author, post to youtube. This is a on off valve, you can pulse the valve, 1 s off, 1 on or 0.5:1 ... if it needed to be smother, look into a water accumulator. You would need to program it also.
OEM part is on Amazon also:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TMVRJWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and then a generic filter, take your pic
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5GZL8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Diaphragm-Priming-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B074MZYS37&ved=2ahUKEwj7zcOjgrXiAhWhxlQKHcjHDpsQFjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2CG6WXejhWSatkNrjFgl-G
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B01MVA6GCC&ved=2ahUKEwj6uZq3grXiAhVIl1QKHepiCjEQFjAEegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw0p7IxyCFGVv0hAILggLjyL
Amazon
Chrysler 68052292AA Air Conditioning Filter Access Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TMVRJWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ERsYBbVF3JMSJ
You can use any filter I went with Wix part# 24578
When I got everything I spent about 25 bucks. Disregard that it says it does not fit your truck. It does its basing it off the Trim level.
I just replaced the tank on my '05 R53 MCS two weeks ago. It was leaking all along the seam where the two halves come together. I'm sure I lost a bunch of coolant before I noticed it. The coolant was just bubbling out & never hit the ground, so it was hard to pick up on. I replaced it with this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKHSYEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's exactly like the OEM one. I figured that since the OEM tank lasted this long, I'd stick with the plastic. There are a couple of aluminum ones out there, but I didn't see springing the $100 for one - I'd rather spend that on a new supercharger pulley, or a new air intake assembly.
The replacement process is one of the only easy things I've done on my Mini. One bolt and 2 hose clamps is all that's holding it in. Done in about 15 minutes. Have fun!
EDIT: a word
Literally 2 bolts and two hose clamps. They leak at the seam. Your cap looks like it's leaking with that spray out at the end. It's literally $25 and the tank comes with a new cap.
Amazon link
Hey, OP! I would use factory certified parts, or at least factory specified. Would this shipping work for you?
http://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-WH23X10030-Washing-Machine/dp/B00OMR17TA
Yes, grab this guy if kicking the bottom of your glovebox fixed it
MYSMOT Blower Motor Fan Assembly Fits 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Toyota Prius 1.5L-L4 87103-47020 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q2QJWWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zhNqDb93TZM2Y
It's the heater bypass valve.
A lot of people say get rid of it, but it's 16 dollars. Come on. Not like it's that hard to replace.
I installed Dirtbound's old e-fan kit which had fans similar to OP's and two of them died, so I replaced them with SPAL 10" puller fans rated at 802 real-world CFM. Coolant temp sits rock-solid at 205ºF, I might have to put them on switches to turn one off in the winter.
The generic fans did fine except when flogging it uphill at highway speeds and struggled when using AC during the hotter days during summer. No problems with the SPAL units though. 90ºF+ with the AC on and I never got over 212ºF.
For my WJ, I removed the electric fan entirely because the relay kept failing, even after replacing it with a brand new relay four times. I still don't know why that kept happening. I replaced the electrical fan with a beast of a mechanical fan, an 11-blade viscous-clutch fan. The only way to remove the fan shroud (which is what the electric fan mounts to) is to also remove the mechanical fan, sadly, as far as I know. To make things easier, I only have the fan shroud attached by the top two bolts, and it stays on absolutely fine with no vibration or anything. It's nice not needing to worry about electronics failing now... the fan just always runs when it has to, and worst-case, the clutch is the only thing that can fail, and if it does then it will just be stuck on full blast all the time which is literally fine lol.
If you're interested, here's the setup I have for the mechanical fan, which is guaranteed to keep the engine even cooler than the electrical fan ever could:
The fan blades
The fan clutch
You'll need to get from your hardware store: four m10x1.5x12mm bolts. My hardware store didn't have any of that exact length so I had to get 25mm length and just cut them down to 12mm. Pretty easy with a Dremel and cutoff disk.
If you have any other questions, feel free to respond to this comment. I highly recommend upgrading to the proper mechanical clutch fan setup if you're having issues with cooling the engine. For under a hundred bucks you can make the upgrade using the Amazon links above. Hope this helps!!
Okay, take all this for what it's worth (your mileage may vary, I am not a lawyer, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, yada yada yada).....
I bought an '02 WJ in Feb (to replace my '01 XJ) and had similar issues like you're describing. Based on my experiences with my XJ previously, when it comes to the cooling system I tend towards doing a complete overhaul in one go rather than addressing one component at a time.
For your rig, you've got 4 main components to deal with (in my opinion) when it comes to the cooling system:
If you've already replaced the fan & relay/controller, you should be able to (mostly) rule that out. If you need to check and see if it's running, physically pop the hood and look. It should also be on full time when you switch the AC on.
You've replaced the waterpump, but you say it's "steaming". From where? Grab a flashlight and see if you can figure out where the steam is coming from. It might simply be that you either didn't torque the bolts down enough and it's leaking under pressure, or the surfaces the gasket sandwiches between weren't cleaned resulting in a poor seal, or a combo of both. If it's visibly coming from anywhere around the gasket, you might need to pull the pump and re-do it with a fresh gasket & gasket sealant. Make sure the surface of the block is scraped clean of all the old gasket material and use a good gasket. I have a low opinion of the ones that come with the water pumps and will spend the $$$ on a Fel-Pro (Fel-Pro 35629 water pump gasket).
Check your coolant for debris, particles, any fines or silts that you can see, etc. If the radiator has never been replaced, odds are good that in the 16 years your WJ has been running the radiator is clogged. If you replace the radiator, a good flush of the cooling system will get rid of most of that junk so you don't end up clogging the new radiator and get a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant in there. Top it off with a new Stant radiator cap while you're at it.
Same deal with the thermostat, it may simply be time to get a new one. Consider getting a new housing & gasket while you're at it. Not necessarily a requirement, but I tend towards replacing the housing when I do the thermostat "just because".
Stick with the OEM 195° thermostat - I ran my 4.0L XJ with the 180° thermostat during the summer in Vegas (100°+ routinely for months) and it noticeably helped but I went back to the 195° thermostat after summer temps ended. If that's your climate, the 180° thermostat might be good for a while but I don't recommend it as a straight replacement.
Is replacing nearly everything in the cooling system overkill? Maybe so, but I take into consideration my WJ is 16 years old (like yours) and I have no idea what kind of maintenance the previous owner has done. So it may cost a little bit, but it's worth it to me knowing all the main parts to the cooling system are "like new" which should eliminate overheating issues.
For a little bit of perspective on why I think that way (ie- total overhaul) this is what the thermostat on my '01 XJ looked like when I replaced it a few years ago: https://imgur.com/a/FvZQi9E
The extra ring looking piece to the right of the thermostat is piece of another thermostat that was inside the block.
When I replaced the radiator on my WJ, I pried off one of the end tanks the core was clogged like you wouldn't believe.
Once you've gone through all that, you also have the option of installing a mechanical clutch fan. This thread on JeepForum gives some good info and links. The tl;dr for that is to go grab this Hayden 2787 fan clutch and this Dorman 620-602 fan and spin it onto the threaded nose on the water pump.
I've got the Torque app with a bluetooth OBD-II scanner so I can check the real numbers vs what the dash gauges are showing. Trust me, you can be running hot before the temp gauge starts to creep past the halfway mark.
After replacing all the bits & pieces I talked about above, and installing a mechanical clutch fan, my WJ is running cold. Yesterday was high 90s here in Vegas, and idling in a parking lot w/ the AC on the temp never broke 200°. Creeping through traffic on the freeway w/ AC on hit 206°-210° but didn't get higher. Driving about 75-80mph for a while, and it was in the 190°-195° range.
These are the same temps I was seeing with my XJ after I did the cooling system overhaul, so I have no doubt when it starts breaking 100° here in Vegas I won't be seeing any overheating issues with the WJ.
This is my thinking as well.
I can't find the "Koyo" model you're talking about though. Is there any reason to get it over the Spectra Premium?
I have this one.
But it's a bit bulky to carry, so I bought this one to take on trips which is much more convenient and still carrys plenty of plugs and the tools needed to fit one.
If I ever use the plugs in the more portable one I can simply replace them with the ones from the other kit. And it means I don't have to carry a compressor as the CO2 will be enough to get me to a garage with a pump.
yah, I got this one in my basket, cuz Amazon says it fits my NA.
I got hoses in there too. I'll go ahead and add a cap. Thx again Internet Miata Bro.
More info
Installation: inline
Cooler https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-676-Rapid-Cool-Transmission/dp/B000C39CL8?ref_=ast_bbp_dp (but i'd go with 679 if i'd do it again, bigger)
extra hose https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-106-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000HE6H3S/
Custom brackets, made them myself.
I just got my temp readings. 192f tranny, outside 60f, a 30 min light roadtrip with some traffic. Not bad but slightly dissapointing.
No, I just used the regular housing gasket.
Oh yeah, I had a tough time bleeding my car for some reason. I ended up using this tool to bleed it. If you have access to an air compressor, this or this cheaper one would work better. With the funnel, there's no BMW adapter, so I had to make one out of an old cap by drilling a hole with step bit.
Ahh, heating issues, sometimes very easy, sometimes the most difficult thing to do on a car.
There are many things that can cause your heater to not work.
Firstly, most heater issues are caused by low coolant or trapped air in the system so fill it to the rim and burp it. If its low, its going somewhere, so find it.
Next, its often the heater valve, the mixers, wiring or vac lines. (I doubt your car has vacuum controlled conditioning system though)
But, if you have narrowed it down to the core its self, first thing to do is to try to blow it out by bringing your engine to redline a few times on the highway. (First thing to do for most issues on a car, "A redline a day keeps the mechanic away") If that doesn't change anything, then its time for a flush. Set the car heat to high, unhook the core inlet and outlet hoses on the engine, then flush and backflush it a few times with a garden hose. If you have low flow, you can pour CLR in the hoses and let it sit for a few hours then flush it again.
If it hasn't had one recently, now is definitely a good time for a full coolant flush too.
Helpful tools I would recommend for the job:
Airlift ~$80 (Very helpful for burping a system)
Coolant System Pressure Tester ~$150 (Helpful for finding leaks and testing the cap)
Refractometer ~$50 (A very helpful tool, especially if you live in a cold climate. It measures the freezing point of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and measures battery acid state)
As far as recycling the coolant, in some counties you can pour it down the drain when properly diluted, but most of the time you have to bring it in to a recycling center.
Good luck! If you have any further questions, ill be around.
So here's the deal. The 2003 Accord is known for its rather weak automatic transmission. From what I've heard, it has a lot to do with heat buildup. My girlfriend's car has 210,000 miles and most likely needs to push another 50,000. The transmission shifts fine and I want to keep it that way. So, I added another larger oil cooler to the system, along with a spin-on filter to hopefully catch some particulates. I know the transmission has a filter, but they say its not serviceable and I feel like the extra surface area of the larger filter could help with cooling as well. I decided to put the oil filter between the two coolers so that the filter could catch the crap that may be stuck up in the existing cooler.
Hopefully this spurs an idea in someone else's head, it really wasn't all the difficult and (i hope) will save me thousands in the long run
SUPPLIES:
Spin-on filter and mount
Extra hose
Aftermarket cooler kit
Genuine Honda ATF
Extra spin on nice filter
I’ve heard nothing but problems with the so-called heavy duty aluminum welded radiators.
I solved my problems with three Spal 10” fans on a Dirtbound Off Road shroud with a Flex-a-lite PWM fan controller.
It's worked great for me. I also swapped the binary HP A/C switch with a trinary from a 1997-01 XJ and bypassed all the ECU control functions for the fans, both for engine temp as well as A/C demand. It will screw in where the normal switch is and allow the fans to run only when there is high enough refrigerant pressure to needed, not whenever the A/C clutch is engages, like driving over 35mph.
I threaded the sensor into the thermostat housing.
Some other pics: here & here.
Yea, this didn't smell at all, just keeping stuff from growing. Splash of bleach, good to go.
Going to try this Electric Radiator fan. 12VDC, 2.8 amps, 1700 CFM @ 2800 RPM
Based on how big of a space you need you probably will need a pretty heavy duty fan.
I chose the Endless Breeze that has been discussed endlessly (haha!) for oversized swamp coolers (2.6 amps for 920cfm):
https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6
Also, this one is a new one that I don't know how effective it is but moves a good amount of more air (2.8 amps for 1700):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JI0KOWG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The best starting place is to get your compressors model number, mine is a sanden compressor and this is what the model number should look like on the label: https://i.imgur.com/T6bfZuF.jpg
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It is the 1K0820859Q line, that will ensure you get the correct RCV, here is the one I needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC6GZSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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In the product description it lists the compatible models of compressors for this one.
Is this the part you had replaced? Because that's a higher quality one, not just a generic one, and it's still only <$50. Or did you get a different part replaced?
As stated by others it’s most likely the pump since it sits on the other side. It’s possible for it to travel but here’s the part I replaced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YWBQPCA?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
When my last died I replaced it with one of these:
Dropped my idle temp about 10F. It has a backing plate to increase the impeller low end efficiency.
I've done my own, and gotten a couple of thousand miles out of the tyre before wearing out the tyre. That was in a Fazer 6 S2. Your only on a 125 and it looks like a prime candidate for a plug.
Amazon - Silverline Tyre-Repair-Kit
Decent instruction video here
https://youtu.be/9dSrHKXyHJ8
Had the same problem this spring. Did some digging and there are tons of other Fit owners with the same problem that almost universally cited the blower motor and/or blower motor resistor. Dealership quoted me $450 for the repair ($250 parts, $200 labor). Ended up replacing both myself for about $65. The whole process took about 15 minutes.
It is not a remotely complicated repair, but both parts are located in an awkward place if you aren't a tiny person. They're both accessed by removing the tiny panel under the glove box or the box itself. Only ONE tool is required, which is a Philips head screwdriver, but I'd recommend using one with a very short handle to get at the resistor's screws (mine was about 2.5-3" long).
Blower Motor on Amazon
Resistor on Amazon
Was very glad to get my AC back in time for summer without dumping an unnecessary $390!
You're, correct that this isn't related to the A/C. It's just the cabin air system and it's an easy repair. It's mounted under the dash (passenger side). The only difficult part is that its slightly awkward to reach. If you push the seat as far back as it goes and lay on your back (half your body out of the car), it makes it easier to do. Should take about 10-15 mins to do. 5 mins if you've done it before.
/u/civicjohn is also correct. Here is the part you need:
amazon link. The highest speed is a direct passthrough with no resistance. The resistor reduces the power for speeds 1-3 (more resistance/less power for lower speeds). When the built-in fuse in the resistor trips, the fan will only run on the high setting.
If this doesn't work, or the resistor fails again or the air seems to blow weakly, then its the blower motor: amazon link. If the air is weak, then the bearings in the blower motor are bad. This could explain why the resistor blew. Unfortunately the bearings in the blower motor are not serviceable so the blower motor would need to be replaced. The good news is replacing this is just as easy as replacing resistor. Same area, 3 screws.
The resistor is about $20-$25 and the fan motor (aftermarket) is about $55 from Amazon. A Genuine Honda fan motor is really expensive. Something like $450 or in that neighborhood if I'm remembering correctly. If you insist on Genuine Honda factory parts, it's worth checking a junkyard if you have one nearby. BTW, a really short screwdriver is really handy.
Probably more info than you need but if you're like me, I like to know how things work and why they fail. It may also make the repair less daunting for those who may be a little timid about tinkering with their car. Hope this helps.
.
^the ^blower ^motors ^are ^known ^to ^be ^somewhat ^troublesome.
The screw-on pumps of days gone by were much easier to use on tricky valves (bikes, cars, mowers, whatever) than the current clamp-ons. An Air Extension Hose is a handy accessory to alleviate the problem. Clamp one end in the chuck and screw the other onto the valve in question.