(Part 2) Best cargo management products according to redditors

Keeper 05059 Ratcheting Cargo Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ9KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrQRAb259DY6G

This thing is awesome

I got these for my 19

BRIGHTLINES 2018 Subaru Crosstrek... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K69B5L?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have been doing some research on roof racks and baskets lately. This jeepgarage wk2 forum is very informative. The post is about roof rack systems. http://www.jeepgarage.org/f176/wk2-rack-systems-manufacturers-list-74013.html



I really like Rhino Rack's basket -
https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-Mount-Basket-Regular/dp/B00A5VG6Q6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503189941&sr=8-4&keywords=rhino-rack


Although, i'll likely go with the Rola because it's less expensive and i plan on taking it off when it's not in use. https://www.etrailer.com/Roof-Basket/Rola/59504.html




Here are the vendors that are mentioned on the jeepgarage post, in case you dont want to sign up to log in.

— Baja Rack:
Mule: Baja Rack
MegaMule: Baja Rack

— DiamondRax: Roof Racks - DiamondRax - Con-ferr Style

— Garvin: Garvin Wilderness Racks

— Gobi: Gobi Jeep

— Inno: inno (RV-Inno) /ADVANCED CAR RACKS,

— Mopar: Jeep Grand Cherokee Sport Utility Bars (Part No: 82212072AC)

— Rhino: Rhino RackÂUSA | Car Roof Racks, Cargo Trays, Ski & Bike Racks

— Rocky Road: Jeep Grand Cherokee Roof Rack:Â*2011+ Jeep Grand Cherokee Roof Rack

— ROLA: ROLA Roof Racks

— Saris: Saris (currently no rack for WK2)

— Thule: Bring your life: Racks and Carriers for Bikes Skis Kayaks Canoes Surfboards - Roof racks - Roof boxes – Bags and Cases for Travel Laptops Cameras Tablets Smartphones – Bike Bags and Racks – Snow Chains – Camping - Thule

— TracRac: Homepage | TracRac

— Yakima: Yakima | Car Racks

I have these and I love them. They look super sleek and work great. Super easy installation. I don't have a basket, just j arms for kayaks that I use with them.

I searched for hours trying to find other examples of people putting front racks on their trailers and didn’t come up with anything useful for me, so I’m just putting this out there to help other people who might be looking to add a rack one day.

When I bought my teardrop trailer it came with the connections to hook-up a ClimateRight A/C unit, but didn’t have a rack to store it on or transport it. I tried a few things:

1. The trailer manufacturer wanted $200 for a rack and they were in another state, so I had to pay high shipping costs.
   
   
2. Local fabricators wanted $200+ to custom make a rack
   
   
3. Most commercial “trailer tongue racks” were smaller, triangle shaped designs without the capacity I needed, specifically to carry my generator, ClimateRight AC unit, and ideally a gas can outside of the trailer.
   
   
4. I looked at a few “hitch racks” and actually bought one like this cheaper Highland model. The problem is they were very wide, cutting in to my turning radius, and they were structurally weak without the “hitch” beam running down the center, which I would have had to remove to mount it to my trailer frame.
   
   In addition, I really didn’t want to have to drill holes in the trailer frame as I don’t have the tools for drilling in heavy duty steel.
   
   My solution was this- Titan Universal ATV Rear Back Cargo Basket, $79 with free prime shipping at Amazon.
   
   It came with mounting bars that are designed to clamp an existing rack on the back of an ATV, and the 22” x 39” size were almost perfect for holding my Westinghouse Generator (last years design of this model), AC unit, and a 5 gallon gas can.
   
   The only thing I needed to do was go purchase longer bolts for the bracket from my local hardware store (I used ACE instead of a big box so I could buy single bolts instead of large packs, cost me $2.50 total) and in about 30 minutes I had a steel rack clamped down to my trailer tight. Unlike the “hitch” style racks, the ATV rack had a full tubular steel frame that is rigid and strong and required no additional supports or drilling- I simply used the existing mounting holes and brackets to clamp it to the frame.
   
   Of everything I tried this is by far the simplest and best option out there.

I transport mine on a cargo carrier on the back of my Subaru brz, so if I can do it you can too. I have driven tins of hours on the highway, done probably 90mph, and never had a single problem.

Make sure you secure the prop when you transport it, I use two bungees (the loop ones with the little ball on the end, like this looped around the horizontal bars of the cage on either side, and they keep the prop horizontal and still so it doesn't turn into a wind turbine on the highway. A piece of rope will do the same thing but the bungees are nice and gentle on the prop and easy to take off.

You'll need two ratchet straps, and to figure out how to hold it down to the carrier. In terms of carriers, I'm not sure what size hitch receive you have, but I'm going to guess it's the smaller 1 1/4 inch one. I got this one. It works well, but sits a little low to the ground and took a while to put together. I also had to make a wooden base for the bottom of it. This is the same brand and sits a little higher off the ground, so if your car is low like mine you might want this as another budget option (mine scrapes leaving my driveway, not a huge deal) I also think this is the one Tucker Gott uses, it's probably the same build quality as the one I got. Sides are a little lower so might be harder to secure a fuel can.

This one seems a little nicer, but it's double the cost. Keep in mind, whatever cargo carrier you get you will need to have a flat surface to place your paramotor on. The one I got required me to make a wooden base to sit the motor on, which isn't necessarily easy. For the two others I listed, they have metal grating that you could probably place the motor on, but I personally think a piece of thin plywood bolted to the metal would work better. That way you don't have metal on metal and it gives a little better grip on the bottom of your motor.

One thing I'm not sure I like with the more expensive pro series model, is the clamp it uses on the receiver. The curt carriers use a bolt instead of a pin, and tightening that bolt locks the bar in the receiver and gets rid of most of the slop. With a normal pin, the carrier can rotate a lot so it needs some way to get rid of that. On the pro series carrier, they use a U bolt type thing that clamps down on the receiver, so Instead of just putting the carrier in and tightening one bolt like on the Curt carriers, you have to put it in, put a pin in, and tighten two nuts.

Each have their plusses and minuses, but they will all work.

This is my setup:


http://imgur.com/a/GMkqy8J

You don’t need an entire trailer. Just buy a hitch cargo rack and strap your deer down on the back. Like this one...https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NBFKDK/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1517492289&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hitch+rack+cargo+carrier

I don't own an FJ anymore, but when I did I had this cargo tray: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NBFKDK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought a Rola vinyl carry bag with it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7WLJW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only thing about it that was a drag is you can't open the rear door of the FJ when there is stuff mounted on the rack. You can still get to stuff in the back of your FJ through the window, but not sure if that will work for you. Something to consider, anyway.

Highly recommend these bars. Fit is as good as OEM for half the price

BRIGHTLINES 2018-2019 Subaru Crosstrek & 2017-2019 Impreza Aero Crossbars Roof Racks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K69B5L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y0fODbN01F4K2

I think that's a great idea, if the drywall support bar doesn't work, look at cargo dividers as well. They're strong and cheap.

good to know, thanks for the tip.

i was even considering something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Tow-Tuff-TTF-2762KR-Steel-Carrier/dp/B004RFKBEO/ref=sr_1_22 the extra cargo space would be nice for weekend camping trips.

I installed the OEM roof rack for my Impreza. Plus, I finally installed the LED light strip that /u/cuterocky recommended. Bonus: the roof rack came with a nice torx driver.

Roof Rack: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008216AVM

LED Strip Kit: http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/catalog/product/view/id/22532/s/flexlight-trunk-led-strip/category/812/

Mine is the Barricade roof rack from extremeterrain.com and it has a basket on it from Amazon. The roof rack is very good. I go to Moab like 20 times a year and this thing has been so awesome. It looks cool (I have had people stop me on the street to ask where I got it) and it's super tough and adds a ton of storage to the TJ. I installed mine alone in about 3 hours. It's a good purchase.

Some pics of the rack in use:
http://imgur.com/a/CCzVr

http://www.extremeterrain.com/barricade-roof-rack-black-tj-j100172.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HEBN1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with a slightly more expensive option because I didn't like the look of the previously posted one.

Rails

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BL264KL?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Cargo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002M4AVGU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I got the AERO Cross Bars from Amazon for $150 and installed them myself. Came with a tool and instructions to tighten the bars to the rails. Really easy process

This is the one I got.

It's $42 more but Brightlines isn't a Subaru brand I've ever heard of and could be a cheap knock off, there also aren't any pictures. It'd be worth sending them a message to ask them what their warranty and return policy is just in case, but from a warranty and durability perspective I'd recommend the Subaru brand ones, and they're cheaper than what you'll find with Thule IMO.

This for the hitch: https://www.amazon.com/Tricam-SLE-1-Extender-350-Pound-Capacity/dp/B00HDL2DX6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3E858HYADOOWC&keywords=truck+extender+for+kayak&qid=1558458747&s=gateway&sprefix=truck+exten%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-4

​

This for the roof bar: https://www.amazon.com/Darby-Industries-968-Black-Turbo/dp/B0015D19SS/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3/143-5320052-1184969?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0015D19SS&pd_rd_r=9fc290b5-7beb-11e9-aae6-5da153af3a65&pd_rd_w=na8ZS&pd_rd_wg=Q9G0k&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=J1E5WC3JM9Q1Y7CE17WE&psc=1&refRID=J1E5WC3JM9Q1Y7CE17WE

​

​

Works pretty well, I also use it for hauling long pieces of lumber or ladders.

I made this guide some time ago that goes over several options, including using clamps or drop ceiling mounts, depending on your specific setup. Mounting solutions start at just a few dollars per Lighthouse but can add up if you use nicer parts, such as the clamps.

Another option I've started using in a specific room is a ratcheting cargo bar. This is normally used in a truck bed but you can mount it vertically on a windowsill and then use a clamp and a mini ball head to aim the Lighthouses wherever you want.

Note that there are cheaper versions of almost everything I've linked. However, I linked what I actually use because they will last.

Its a 6' foot bed, but 7' with the tailgate down. I have a truckbed extender ( like this )on the back that gives me an extra 3-4' . The extender is marked with reflective tape and I usually put a red flag on the end (I hope to get some trailer lights on the extender at some point). About 4' extends past the hitch accessory. I've also put foam on the metal extender to prevent damage. Overall I'm pretty satisfied with how it worked out.

Edit: Also, the fisheye lens on the camera makes them look alot longer than they actually are.

Apex RLB-2301 Universal Roof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M3KSK0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s a link to the set I’m using currently, there’s some added wind noise, but it’s not to bad, and with my roof basket I knew there would be a lot of wind noise anyways, but with the sunroof shade closed it’s not noticeable at all

I use a Swagman adjustable truck bed bike rack in my 2015 DCSB.

Swagman Adjustable Truck Bed Bike Rack

It fits great and is rock solid between my side bed tracks. I mount the two bikes and move it rear wheel to its respective side of the bed and I am able to close the tailgate with no issues.
The bike rack has a lock that keeps it from being undone and both bike carriers lock as well. Then I run a cable through the rear wheels, frame and front wheels that is locked into the rear tie down points in the bed.

I will be using it this weekend. If you are interested I can snap a picture of the setup for you.

I have the same Apex roof rack/basket. Its pretty awesome and covers most of the roof.

Thank you! It's a rola basket with the extension to make it a lil bigger and a yitamotor 34 inch curved Led bar. The curve of the bar matches the curve of the basket almost perfectly. I wrapped the basket where it attaches together with FiberFix just for some extra strength and also the back half of the basket is suspended over the roof without support from a cross bar so it needed the reinforcement.

First real usage tomorrow with this setup, but I hauled 2 bikes on it to test it and hit speed bumps etc. and it handled them beautifully. Not to mention this entire solution was a solid $40, and probably could’ve been cheaper if I had shopped more carefully.

For anyone else trying this, do it! Super easy to setup.
Here are the items:
Fork Mounts (Comes with 2)

Keeper 05059 Ratcheting Cargo Bar

See here: http://imgur.com/tyswKGE. I don't think I've uploaded a picture from the side since I've moved the cargo basket back. I'll dig through my phone and see what I find, but basically picture the rails and basket in the back, there's probably about 4 inches of clearance between the end of the basket and the antenna.

Rack: Yakima Whispbar (Size: S46) http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BFN5EO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Basket: Yakima LoadWarrior http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XAMTM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

If I were to look at cargo baskets again, I might consider the Rhino Rack basket: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A5VG6Q6?refRID=0J5JVYZFQA2Z4KQWCYRK&ref_=pd_ybh_a_26 .It fits aero blades as well and looks a little more aerodynamic.

I have used a hitch mounted back rack for many trips. It works great and can hold 300-500 pounds depending on the rack. Link for Hitch and rack. Video of install.

BRIGHTLINES 2013-2017 Subaru... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07285DLFT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I was mistaken! Not OEM!

We just ran a 2k mi. road trip through CO and UT and slept in the back for 11 days. We kept all our gear inside the vehicle while we were driving and once we set up camp transfered all the gear up into a waterproof soft box.

May not be the solution for you, but only took about 5 mins to pack up each night and way cheaper and more fuel efficient than a roof box. Plus it rolls up really small when not in use.

Sherpak Go!15 Waterproof Cartop Storage Cargo Bag Carrier for Car Rooftop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALBJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rd1SDbFHF7YQ8

Ratcheting cargo bars can be used to create a temporary support between the walls:

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Explore-1390600-Ratcheting-Cargo/dp/B01414B9HI

You can then hang whatever you want off them to help muffle the sound. The thicker the material, the better the sound reduction.

I bought these 49.75" bars for my '15 TH and they fit pretty perfectly (width-wise) with maybe an inch extra on either side.

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Impreza-Roof-Rack-Carrier/dp/B004HGXMYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511812242&sr=8-1&keywords=subaru+roof+rack+2013+wrx




https://www.amazon.com/Yakima-ForkLift-Fork-Mount-Rooftop/dp/B001PRV7H2/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511812271&sr=1-13&keywords=bike+roof+rack

This fits my organic big pad plus some more small items. It is apparently water-proof, but I seam-sealed it just incase and it seems to do fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Go-15-Cartop-Storage/dp/B0024ALBJ8

I'll check my rating, but I have a 2016 silverado so I'm confident it will do it.


Do you by chance have pics on how you strapped it down? I have strapped mine in the bed and maybe I go overboard, but the pics on the Amazon review looks like they used one strap haha.

Also what kind of bike?


Edit : is this the one? Looks more heavy duty

Black Widow MCC-600 600 lb HeavyDutySteelMotorcycleCarrier–600lb.Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFIJ362/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7rT6CbNDE9731

I believe we have the same rack, mine is the larger 62.5" model. link to it on amazon for anyone who is interested:

http://www.amazon.com/62-5-Luggage-Cargo-Storage-Fairing/dp/B004HEBN1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405434632&sr=8-1&keywords=62.5%22+Roof+Luggage+Cargo+Storage+Rack+with+Fairing

Legality aside we bought one of those a few years back. It broke on our cross country road trip and almost fell off in heavy traffic. Was a bad day. We swapped to this Tow Tuff TTF-2762KR Steel Cargo Carrier with Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RFKBEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-Om3AbN8AD422 saved a ton of money and now we have a hitch and haul for camping and such. Without bikes on it the doors easily open.

I recently bought the Brightlines Aero bars from amazon. They look exactly the same as the OEM version. They sit lower to the car and have less curvature than the OEM. I only had them for a month and I have yet to find a single issue with them.

Bars:

( https://www.amazon.com/BRIGHTLINES-2013-2017-Crosstrek-2012-2016-Crossbars/dp/B07285DLFT )

For a bike rack, I just use a hitch mounted Nash Bar sit-in rack. For the money its nice, but there are multiple issues with the rack and how it’s designed so I don’t recommend it.

Rack:

https://www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Shadow-DLX2-2-Bike-Hitch/dp/B06Y5VC2DH/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536599755&sr=8-6&keywords=nashbar+bike+rack

I have a 2003 4runner so its slightly bigger than your 3rd gen. My wife and I each have 10' entry level sit in rec kayaks. I successfully mount and carry both on the factory roof rack with 2 pairs of cheap Amazon J hooks. I can lift and mount the kayaks solo but its much easy with two people. I put 2 ratcheting tie straps over the kayaks securing them to the cross bars and side rails (not the J hooks). I use a bow and stern lines attached to the front recovery loops and rear hitch. It works well. If I were doing longer distance driving (200+ miles) with the kayaks I would probably get some higher grade J Hooks.

Here is the 2 Pairs of J Hooks (thats 4 total) for about $60.
Link

I bought an aftermarker set of cross rail for my wife's Odyessy and another set of J Hooks. I mount and carry them the same way. The van is newer and and cleaners so we only use it for the drop off vehicle. Here is the after market cross rails (that also fit my 4runner) Link

Got these for my 2019. Have had zero problems. I keep a Yakima Loadwarrior attached all the time. They look like the OEM ones. I don’t notice any additional noise with them on compared to when they were off. I do notice noise with the sunroof open, but that’s largely attributed to the cargo basket, not the rails themself. Would highly recommend if you’re looking for the OEM look, but want to save some money.

BRIGHTLINES 2018 Subaru Crosstrek & 2017-2018 Impreza Aero Crossbars Roof Racks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K69B5L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OCsVBbM4V8N6Q

Not sure about kayaks, but I used one of these with my old truck and it worked great. Easily removable too when not in use.
https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Pick-Truck-Bike-Rack/dp/B00I25NI4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549597705&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=truck+bed+bike+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=21QyG5sttgL&ref=plSrch

Hello,

I had a blazer. Frist thing I did was put Thule cross bars on the factory bar. There was way too much play in the factory cross bars...so I ditched them.

Second. Look into a ladder rack. like this one. With that you can slide the boats back a bit and still have solid connection to the truck.

I’ve been using this one for several years. It’s been great. I have a 17 foot scanoe and I t’s plenty wide enough. I secure it with a couple ratchet straps and tie it up front through one of the tie down points. I’ve driven several hours with it up to about 80 mph.

roof rack

I was going to include a picture of the rack with my boat on it, but I can’t figure out how to do it.

These or these work really well, pair with two camera clamps like these, and you're good to go. (I use the Harbor Freight ones, but both should be fine)

​

Pro-tip: Point the ratcheting portion down so you're pushing the main pole up, this maximizes base station height, and minimizes vibration.

Oh, in that case, you may want to consider a hitch rack just to carry a few more things without hurting the range much. You may still have to take it off for the supercharger cable to reach though... might be worth it to bring a few more things with you.

They're the OEM racks for 08-11 Impreza, 12+ Fits STI and WRX only I believe. I've actually got a set sitting here from my old Impreza if you're interested in buying them. Here they are on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Impreza-Roof-Rack-Carrier/dp/B004HGXMYE

It’s the normal size rhino rack. Rhino Rack Roof Mount Cargo Basket, Regular https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A5VG6Q6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I got my Rola for less than $200. It's the one you see in the banner pic.

I started with just the standard basket
Later I added the extension

This is just about the cheapest option for a decent roof rack. Other than some minor rust (Mind you I'm in AZ, so rust isn't much of an issue for me) the rack has been great. The weak link in the setup is actually the factory crossbars. They both collapsed on mine under the weight just my spare and HiLift. So that's something to keep in mind.

I think the fork mount racks are generally considered 'more sturdy'. That said, I love my setup and the convenience of not having to take the front wheel off. Subaru Crossbars, Inno Rack , and Fairing. On a 2011 WRX sedan.

this one, and its 1 1/4" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G4X4LQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also needed this to make it work though

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ25Y26/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and even then it isnt perfect

This is the one I run on mine. It fits well and looks nice. But the knobs whistle quite a bit. This can be solved with a bit of hot glue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002M3KSK0/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reese Explore 1390600 40" x 70" Ratcheting Cargo Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01414B9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_XmmbgXTVK3zNl

Bought it to keep stuff tight against the seats in my old suv. It ratchets tight. I’ve never had it pop out or even move while driving on or off road

Most frames will accommodate a commonly available cargo bar to hold plywood inside of the frame. This is just a quick example I found but these are used in semi trailers all the time and you can get ones specced where the failure limit would likely be beyond the surrounding structure itself. It's more expensive than drilling but they can be re-used, and are handy for many other things. It might even be possible to install inside of windows mark-free with rags on the contact pads. Usually if it isn't a structural modification, and it does not damage the property, they cannot do anything about it. It also makes it very clear it was the landlord being an asshat that led to his windows being broken, not anything LAOP did.

roof rack. the roof rack (or rails) runs front to back, cross bars run across. neither Yakima or Thule make a roof rack for your car, so you're going to be stuck with a generic rack. Maybe something like this or this.

Ideally, you get a roof rack and cross bars. Canoes don't use J-racks. You could just use foam blocks and ratchet straps, but it's sketchy if you're going too fast or far. I've made 400 mile trips using foam blocks, but you got to be sure and tie it down well and use bow and stern lines.

Here's a great expanation of how to tie it down. It's worth buying the hood tie down things, $7 on Amazon.

17' canoe is heavy unless it's composite. there's some videos of best ways to load them solo.

I got these off Amazon. They're the OEM factory aero bars, but way less expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QC36K2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thule's guide doesn't give me a solution, maybe they discontinued the product?

Yakima looks good but damn they are expensive.

OEMs are cheap and will do what I want. Probably go with these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HGXMYE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2LIUC6TMTLQAD

I can just lash the skis to the roof with bungies or tie-downs.

I have Brightlines and I love them. They're very reasonably priced. Never had a problem with them, so easy to get on and off. (Well, on, anyway. I put them on and never took them off.)

You didn't ask about carriers, and I know most people use J hooks, but I went with a more expensive carrier. I use Malone Seawings. I chose them because I'm a 5'5" woman and I needed to get the kayak up and down by myself (on a Jeep Renegade, which sits a little high). I don't think I could get the kayak up over a J hook by myself. With the Seawings, I can just slide it into place. (I use a Malone roller to get it up and down.)

Found this on Amazon in another thread: https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Fixed-Crossbar-Impreza-E361SFJ000/dp/B008216AVM

​

I'm in the same boat as you, 2012 Impreza hatch. Last season I just threw skis/snowboards in the back, but I'm looking into making things a bit more comfortable for my passengers this season. Looked on the Thule website, and the crossbars alone are $500+ so this looks pretty good.

BRIGHTLINES 2018-2019 Subaru Crosstrek & 2017-2019 Impreza Aero Crossbars Roof Racks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K69B5L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kuh3Cb9G1BQD6

Bought these a month ago, never placed anything on them, just rested on the car.

you need the fixed crossbar set from subaru. it's made by thule and exact same parts as the set bought from thule but like 1/3rd the price at about $175-ish

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Fixed-Crossbar-Impreza-E361SFJ000/dp/B008216AVM

My concern was how you'd transport it because bike racks often have issues with fat tires and non standard wheelbases. It could be a problem if you take the bus or catch a ride with a friend. It bugs me because it means my hitch can only be used for my fat tire ebike, or for cargo, not both. If I had built my ebike around a conventional mtb, then I could use this thing. The two bikes you're looking at also look incompatible with most racks that attach to a hatch. If you're always riding, then it's not a problem.

From watching the lockinglawyer and bosnianbill, I'd go with a ulock like the Uguard Brute or Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit. Their advantage is a shackle thicker than bolt cutters can handle right now. Get insurance though. There's no 100% foolproof way to stop thieves, so prepare yourself so the impact of a theft can be dealt with when it happens. I keep seeing https://velosurance.com/ pop up when it comes to ebike insurance. You might have renters insurance or something like that, but chances are they are against insuring motorized vehicles, which includes ebikes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07285DLFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JUBlzbK6M888K

These? Yes that makes sense. Thanks for the suggestion.

BRIGHTLINES 2013-2017 Subaru... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07285DLFT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Harbor freight one sucks. I use this.
http://www.amazon.com/TMS-T-NS-HITCH-BED-EXTENDER-Pickup-Mounted-Extender/dp/B005KVLX50/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406771784&sr=8-1&keywords=pickup+truck+bed+extender
You can find it with free shipping. Better ground clearance than the harbor freight version and way more adjust ability. You can use it with SUV's or ladder racks too. Maybe not as much clearance as the T-bone but I haven't hit the ground with it. It's solid too. It will rust through when my Hitch rusts through.

I have a carrier that's rated to 700lbs - trailers are a pain in the ass. So I keep the BMW and rent an SUV for whenever I need to use my "bike rack".

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Widow-MCC-600-Heavy-Duty-Motorcycle/dp/B00WFIJ362

This thing is awesome.

Good mount. And easy to install and remove.

I got this for our Outback:

https://www.amazon.com/Rola-59504-Vortex-Mounted-Basket/dp/B004R34HDC

Plus this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rola-59505-Vortex-Mounted-Extension/dp/B001G4Z5NQ/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G17AAJSCYHB7EMTKT31N

It's a HUGE rack and half the price of Thule or Yakima. Highly recommend. I believe you'll need to purchase the crossbars for it though.

> Eh...I think the question was in regards to a setup for carrying a bike without a trailer. I'd be interested in it as well since a trailer is way more limiting, exposed, upkeep, another point of failure, and the associated costs that go with a trailer.

I use https://www.amazon.com/Black-Widow-MCC-600-Heavy-Duty-Motorcycle/dp/B00WFIJ362/ but need to do some work to get my hitch extended. It's pretty sketchy getting my bike up that ramp by myself - given that it's about 500 pounds. I can't open the door with the bike there too. It looks like this van-bulance has a pass through.

I think this is it or close to

I highly recommend the very cheap kind that just straps to your roof. 30 seconds to put on, 30 seconds to take off. I have been using this one, and I'm super happy with it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015D19SS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I transport 2 17 foot yaks on the roof of my pickup truck in conjunction with one of these at roof level coming from the rear tow hitch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDL2DX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this on the front receiver I installed on my Yukon XL

I have put a few thousand miles under my belt with it. You kinda get used to “seeing through the bikes” kinda like watching something through a chain link fence or kids with long bangs.

Here is it on my truck: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fp7MV5TMt9vflHxq2

Tow Tuff TTF-2762KR Steel Cargo Carrier with Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RFKBEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ffJKAbG3F6BTS