(Part 3) Best ceiling light fixtures according to redditors

FYI, they also have 90 degree adapters. That's the direction I'm going, since I have no soldering skills. Good job, though!

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

This is my collection one year in the making. Finally got my own place and set up some displays. Wanted to light it up and decided to create my own DIY solution. Designed, Measured, Cut, Soldered, and Attached it all over two weekends. Took about 20 hours total. See further below for WIP pictures. The color light pictures really don't do them justice. My phone camera sucks. They look much better in real life.

----

Close up's of each Display and Shelf, see the full album by clicking "Display" at the top for descriptions.

-

Shelf| Display 1| Display 2
---|---|----
Top| Miku Scales | Odds and Ends 2
2nd| Miku Nendos | Date a Dog Days Live
3rd | Miku Mix | Round 1, Fight!
4th | Odds & Ends 1| Lonely Sinon
5th | To Battle! | Cheerful Japan
Bottom | Empty | Empty

----

A nifty thing happens under blue light. A few of the figures have spots that glow. See here.

----

Sadly I didn't take too many images while working on the lighting, but I do have a few. See the descriptions for more info.

Here is a shopping list if you want to try your hand:

• RGBW LED Strip Lights x 2 (1 per shelf)
  
• RGBW Extension Wire (10m is probably fine for 2 shelves even)
  
• T Junctions (9 per shelf, come in packs of 10) The connectors aren't needed but couldn't find a comparable price for just the junctions.
  
• RGBW Solderless Jumper Cables - For the adjustable shelves so you can move/remove them
  
  You'll also need a soldering iron and all the accoutrements, glue (I used Loctite),heat shrink wrap, blow dryer, tweezers, wire cutters, cardboard work space for protection. I sourced most of these from work and borrowed them for a while.
  
  ---
  Future Plans
  -
  I plan on buying or making some acrylic/plexiglass risers so I can fit some more Nendo's per shelf without overcrowding it. This will let me move the Nendo Petite Vocaloids onto the back of the Miku Nendo shelf and free up room for my incoming Mebae Miku and Ca Calne on Miku Shelf 2.
  
  Then I can also raise up Stormtrooper and Vader and condense the Date A Live and Dog Days shelves as well.
  
  Once Saber Bride (zipped) comes in, I'll move her and Jack the Ripper to Sinons shelf so she isn't lonely anymore. Then when Purple heart comes in she can join Black heart's shelf.
  
  ----
  
  Let me know what you think and if you have any questions about the figures, shelves, lighting, or anything really!
  
  Thanks for looking!

It's got a ring of LEDs around the center there. These are how you get $16 LED flush mounts

Take a look at the second image and you can see the flat LEDs. Then look at the ring around the center of your light. They're flat LEDs

Cloudy Bay LED Flush Mount Ceiling Light,7.5",12W 840lm(100W Incandescent Equivalent),Dimmable,3000K Warm White,ETL,Wet Location,White Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI4RX9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wwzOCbPKAFQZW

Sure!

So, here are the parts/products I used (all from Amazon, and available for Prime delivery):

• Lights
  
  
• Power supply
  
  
• Jumpers/connectors
  
  
• Wire (for linking cases to same remote & power source)
  
  (And, of course, Michaels Baseball Bat Cases)
  
  [Images are linked for appropriate descriptions below]
  
  First thing was finding the proper distance between the cases for mounting on the wall -- I've seen a ton of other folks doing these in different ways, but the one thing that always bugged me was not taking advantage of using the case as a shelf also, and just doing one right under/over the other, and not leaving room to display other things (like the in-box ones I have there)... plus, it solves the next issue:
  
  I wanted to use the same power & control for both cases (and have them linked together), but not have wires showing to link them... If I wasn't a renter, and knew this could be a permanent fixture, I would've popped holes in the wall to hide the cables, but since that's not an option, I used the in-box pops to hide the wire that runs from the bottom case to the one on top. I'm sure there are a number of other ways to accomplish the same thing, but this seemed like the best solution for me. Personally, I didn't care for the look of the LEDs running along the sides or the top of the cases, so I only ran a strip along the bottom of each case, saving some lights for some other random project down the road.
  
  So, in both cases, I drilled holes into both of the back bottom corners, and then Dremel-ed one of them a bit to allow the main power supply link/adapter to fit inside the case (it's about a 1/2" across in rectangular shape).
  
  The power comes from the wall below, which is behind a larger cube storage shelf, and the cable that leads into the bottom right of the lower case is 'hidden' behind that in-box Tony Stark.
  
  I wired up the bottom case first, and at the end of the strip, set up a jumper from the strip to the extension cable, and threaded enough to reach the top case, which connects to the other strip, running in the opposite direction. Eventually, there'll be a third case above these, which is why I drilled the extra hole in the other corner of the top case, to be prepped for another extension wire to run to the third (once I pick another one up and figure out what to fill it with).
  
  ...That more or less covers it, I think. :)
  
  Feel free to hit me up if you want any other info or pics, etc. It was frustrating at first, trying to figure out the easiest way to do what I had envisioned in my head, but it worked out in the end, so I'm pleased.
  
  Good luck with yours!
  
  edit: formatting

Looks like a decent solution, though it will still hang down some with that standoff they have on the back.

My solution is to get it as close to the ceiling as possible. I'm installing this soon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018T024P6/

I believe that is an all-in-one LED light, meaning you’d have to replace the whole fixture to have a different design.

I use this
Solarphy 32.8ft (10m) RGB LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYNJTBN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And then a splitter to run 2 panels from one source
TronicsPros 2 Packs 4 Pin... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016KSOTXY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You could connect them end-to-end or just get a splitter

https://www.amazon.com/TronicsPros-Splitter-Connector-Strips-12inch/dp/B016KSOSX0

I used SMD RGBWW Lights from Amazon. Here is and album of them at night. I have used 3 of 4 strips so far. The remote works great from a long distance without line of site and allows for multiple zones. I have it set on a timer to turn on at dusk. I leave them on fading between colors and during holidays I can choose whatever color I see fit. It is a bit of work but I love the look. Very unique.

Supplies:

• Supernight 16.4ft RGBWW Color Changing LED Strip Light Kit, LED Tape with 5050 300leds Waterproof
  
• Wireless 2.4G RF RGB + White/Warm White Controller Kit, 4 x Controllers and 4-Zone Remote
  
• LEDENET 5pins 10mm Quick Connectors RGBW LED Strip
  
• Color 20m RGBW Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGBW 5050 Cord 5pin
  
• Silicon Clip for Fixing 8mm 10mm 16mm 20m 3528 5050 RGB
  
• 3/4'' Stainless screws.

I am not sure what the guy below is talking about because even Phillips Hue on Amazon has a picture that shows you can cut the light strip.

You can either solder on wire at the connection points or buy a clip connector like this: https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Extension-32-8ft-Splitter-connectors/dp/B071GY9V64/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510229851&sr=1-11&keywords=led+extension+wire

You can also try bending the strip slightly. I have done this with much cheaper RGB strips and have caused a light to stop working though so I would not recommend a 90 degree turn.

Personally, I am starting with 1 strip to test on my 55 inch then if I need more you can get either the 40 inch extension or another 80.

Amazon, some clear tubing to distort the leds, hot glue gun, carpet puller to tuck it, scissors, razor blade, led 4 pin adapters and cuss words.

LEDs I Used

ADAPTER 1

ADAPTER 2

I was in a different position with no access to the walls. I used a wireless switch, plugged the power adapter into it, and used these lights. I connected them with 20g speaker wire and had to buy an extra set of these connectors. Overall project was not hard at all, and it makes such a big difference! I did (still do) have some trouble with the adhesive on the lights themselves not being quite sufficient. I plan to put additional double stick tape under the problem areas if I ever remember to buy some.

Doing the project this way made it 100% DIY. I also added them on top of the cabinets just to add the extra light. Can't recommend the project enough, it's so nice to not have my shadow over the cutting board when I'm trying to see what I'm chopping.

I use these and some shrink tubing

eBoot 22 AWG JST SM 2 Pin Plug Male and Female Connector Adapter with 135 mm Electrical Cable Wire for LED Light, 20 Pairs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGN56V2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wq6kDb3Z3QWTE

You could just cut the connector off & solder the leads to the strip. Or, if you work with those strips a lot, buy a bag of connectors. 20 pairs of M/F connectors with pigtail for $10

Amazon to the rescue.

(from the OPs girlfriend) Hanging lamp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P9VLFK4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The shades we poached off some unfortunate looking table lamps from Target - the best shades have to be bought with lamp bases! We just made sure a plug would fit through the spider of the lamp :)

I used this light strip from Amazon. I'm really happy with them. Installation was a breeze. I bought a splitter and L-shape connectors to make things easier.

LED2020 LD-Con-W-PW-Switch 12V In-Line Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U2YSG8W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_iGv.wbHR0K30V


The keywords you should look for are DC inline switch.

/u/wasser24 to the rescue! I made this same post in the "does this exist" subreddit, and he came through with THIS! Huzzah! Thanks again.

LED2020 LD-Con-W-PW-Switch 12V In-Line Switch

This is the light I bought.
I left a 1 star review on Amazon because the first one was faulty and they never returned my call. They have since sent me another new unit and it works great. But their quality control seems to be lacking as you can see by the other reviews.

There are similar lights out there but I'm quite happy with this now. I just got it installed and working on Monday after receiving the replacement.

Another option that I've been doing a lot lately is using JST SM connectors, as such: https://smile.amazon.com/MagicW-Connector-Female-Cable-Light/dp/B01G9RWRDA/

They lock together, and come in 2, 3, and 4 pin. You've still got to solder them onto the wires but once installed, they are pretty quick to snap together. Not sure if you're using your LED strips more than once, but these make it pretty convenient.

Also, generally the wires are pre stripped to the right length so you can just cut the strips where needed, then solder straight to them. Flux is helpful and should make it quicker.

Not only is the DIY solution a HELL of a lot cheaper, you can also cut these strips and extend them. Not to mention, hue strips do not have individually addresable LEDs, which means you can't do fancy effects like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9i4l5_knq8Y , or a more "home automation" style example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j3UyrBjB4g .

Keep in mind that if your cutting them and want to reuse them, you will have to posses some soldering skills, or purchase these https://www.amazon.com/Nicelux-Connector-Extension-Conductor-Non-waterproof/dp/B071VN9D6N

WS2812B strips can be hooked up to a Lighting Node Pro or Commander Pro; the Corsair strips are WS2812B strips with magnets on the back. I used Dupont female to female wires to go from the JST connector on the strip to the Commander Pro's LED channel connector.

I believe I used this strip on Amazon. iCUE will only work with 60 LEDs on a channel, so one meter with 60 LEDs worked out as a more dense solution than the ones Corsair makes. If you are less inclined to DIY the cabling, these cables on eBay would do the same thing.

I also bought this to be able to cut the LED strip to length and keep the strip on the same LED channel by extending the wiring. Clamp the connectors down well to the LED strip and the wires and they work great.

https://www.schoolhouseelectric.com/collections/pendant-fixtures/products/cullen-pendant-natural-brass

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L5KWS4A/ref=twister_B01IHZJ6EA?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Plug--Textile-Pendant-Holder/dp/B00P9VLFK4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474440562&sr=8-6&keywords=brass+light+cord

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019H3VSBA?psc=1

http://www.target.com/p/-/A-15722061

Sounds like you want LED strip connectors like this: https://www.amazon.com/iCreating-Connector-Pigtail-Flexible-Solderless/dp/B06XJJMKKH/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=led+strip+connector&qid=1573463388&sr=8-8

First, the LED strip will have designated cut-lines - see https://imgur.com/WL9s39I. For a simple two-wire strip, there will be two copper connectors (labeled + or -) on each side of the cut line. To daisy chain, you simply need to cut strips along the cut-line and connect + to + and - to - of these strips with the 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor. The wire will be run in the wall between the upper cabinets on either side of the sink.

Another option is to run 18AWG wire directly from the 12-volt transformer to each strip. This would not involve daisy chaining.

There are a couple of ways to handle connecting the 18AWG wire to the copper connectors on the light strips. My preference is to solder a short length of 18AWG to the strip and then cover with heat-shrink tubing. Another option is to use solderless snap-down connectors like these or these, but you'll need to make sure they fit your strip.

Like this? Or this?

https://www.amazon.com/Alightings-Strip-Connector-Non-waterproof-Lights/dp/B01CNYZ0NW/ref=pd_sbs_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CNYZ0NW&pd_rd_r=b31328c1-c0b9-11e8-9e5c-f1354e1a6fb7&pd_rd_w=vINhu&pd_rd_wg=oV39C&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=53dead45-2b3d-4b73-bafb-fe26a7f14aac&pf_rd_r=BTBQPKCCZTTN0GM9FY3A&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=BTBQPKCCZTTN0GM9FY3A

These have both ends. Each end is a mirror image of the other.
Since it's hard to tell which ends you will need where, I would start with some of these and cut in half and use as needed.

The fan connects directly to the GPU on the inside of the housing. It appears to use a So the internal connector for the fan appear to be JST connectors:

Blurry Pics I will need to take it apart again for better ones

• 4 pin for the fan Amazon???
  
  
• 2 pin this is from the 4 pin connector Amazon or This for the pump. The polarity appears to switch and the pump does not work if plugged directly into the board. (Don't think it is supposed to be but it fit) Not sure if this is because there is no RPM reading or the polarity is switched but the pump doesn't run.
  
  

I have had success with [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EIDDQCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 strips). I have 2 in between 3 Lifx z strips. But like everyone is saying, be very careful. Both because they don't fit exactly and you void your warranty once you intro non Lifx made products into the mix. When connecting, don't be too forceful.it's all about technique. also, make sure these strips are all continuously oriented across the entire loop. there's an "up", and a "down" orientation to these strips. i marked mine to help with consistency. once all put together, these will work beautifully.

I bought some of these based on another post (sorry I forget the poster).
https://www.amazon.com/TronicsPros-Extension-Connector-Flexible-Adapter/dp/B01EIDDQCS/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1520053634&sr=8-20&keywords=Litaelek+2

They have been great. I’ve only used the 1m but they still work if setup with multiple extensions connected together.

Sure! Your old one does look almost exactly like mine! What I did was remove everything from the old light. I then cut a piece of new drywall the correct size to fill that hole. I then laid 2 pieces of 1x4 (about 16-18 inches long, to span the 12 inch hole plus a couple inches of overlap on each side) on the edge of the hole. Put your patch in place and screw it into those backer boards you just put in there, then apply drywall compound. I also cut the hole for a new Junction box prior to putting the patch in.

I found the light at Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/LED-Flat-Panel-Light-Fixture/dp/B01EAZ1WKC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 but it was quite a bit cheaper at Costco. Do read the few Amazon reviews though, because they are right.... It is a PAIN to get the light mounted, and it doesn't sit totally flush. I'm going to be caulking the edges to eliminate the gap.

I've been looking for retrofit kit for square, and large enough for a similar light fixture, and I couldn't find any. It's another Redditor who used these in their reno: https://www.amazon.com/LED-Flat-Panel-Light-Fixture/dp/B01EAZ1WKC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Edit: on mobile, had to edit to paste proper link

How about a motion sensing light?

Warm White LED Ceiling Wall Surface Mount Microwave Motion Activated Smart LED Light Fixture 180 LED 1000Lumens Multi-Functions for Residential Commercial and Industrial Lighting Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0163NVMTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BYUSBbXJA3870

Flat, and no switch needed. Nice for when holding a basket full of laundry.

Basically you just connect them to a 12V power supply and a controller. You can cut the strips to whatever lengths you need and wire them in series. This guide has a lot more information. The ones that I used are the brighter 5050 RGB LEDs.


If you don't want to mess with ordering the parts separately you can find kits like this one. Also, if you want to cut strips and not have to mess with soldering them together you can get straight connectors like these or connectors like these for any right angles that you need to make.

https://amzn.com/B016IG41PE

If you can desolder the strip connectors, these should work. Otherwise, if you don't want to desolder, you can measure the pitch and get your own right angle headers from DigiKey

This is definitely a doable project. The hardest part of the things you mentioned is probably truly waterproofing the whole thing, but if you're not planning on dunking it in water, using it in the rain, or leaving it in a puddle it should be fine just generally covering things up.

1. You'll want what are called addressable leds, probably using the WS2812b chip, like the ones here. You could alternatively make your own matrix using strip lights like the ones here which have the option to be waterproof, though it would be a lot more involved and you'd have to make a lot of cuts which would have to be waterproofed anyway.I'm not too familiar with SMS functionality, but there is a chip called the ESP32 which you can program in the arduino IDE and has bluetooth built in. There are also external modules you could use which would probably help with the SMS functionality, and then can communicate to the main microcontroller.For cables, standard addressable led connectors look like this and you usually get a few extra when you buy strips/matrices, but having more isn't bad and they are pretty cheap. Depending on where you place you electronics, you might need up to a 2m or so run of cable. If you are running the led signals this long, make sure to use higher gauge wire as there is less voltage drop for both the power and signal lines.Depending on your microcontroller, you might need to do something called level shifting/level converting, which is where you take a signal at say, 3.3v and boost it to 5v. If this is the case you'll need a level shifter. A pretty standard choice is the 74AHCT125. Unless you have a compelling reason, I would choose that one since other level converters can have issues with driving LEDs. You can also get it much cheaper on places like digikey/mouser.
   
2. In terms of guides, the video the other commentor linked below is a good start and sparkfun has a good addressable LED guide. In general, looking up "Addressable led tutorial" or something like that will get a lot of results. I'm not sure how much microcontroller experience or similar you have, but tutorials for that should be even more numerous. Start small, for example just flashing a color on and off or something, and work from there.
   
3. Definitely feasible. Depending on how long you plan to use it for, your batteries may not even need to be that big. At max brightness (full white), a WS2812b led will use approximately 60mA at 5v. Keep in mind full brightness is BRIGHT. Like hard to look at bright. Depending on the ambient lighting, you could get away with half brightness or even less. Further, if you only use one color of RGB, we can say you use 10mA per led. Further, with scrolling text you won't have all of them lit at once, reducing power consumption even more. With all this in mind, lets say you want to drive 250 leds for 4 hours. Assuming they are all on (which they likely won't) and in one color at half brightness, it would use 10mA*250*4hour = 10,000mAh. Cell phones usually charge at 5v, and if you wanted to reduce cost, you could just use a 10,000mAh battery pack which aren't even that big/rare. This would also allow for quick swap, just unplug the usb cable and swap to a new battery pack. Other than that you could use 26650 cells or some other type of battery pack, though you'd likely need some sort of battery management system for that work efficiently.
   
   ​
   
   Let me know if you have any other questions! I'm not sure how familiar you are with electronics so if anything is unclear let me know.

Would this work with the FLS-PP ballast or do I need some sort of connector?