(Part 3) Best engine & parts fluid cleaners according to redditors
We found 484 Reddit comments discussing the best engine & parts fluid cleaners. We ranked the 78 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)
Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.
Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!
Yes, leave it for a day. You can grind the granules in with your heel to powder it and it will soak up quicker. Grind it in, come back in a couple hours, rearrange it with a wire brush, grind it in again and give it more time. Repeat as necessary, change when completely oily.
Or if you can find rice hull ash, that stuff is the shit! Use the same method above. A bag will last forever, I reuse it till it's saturated. http://smile.amazon.com/Greasweep-Multi-purpose-Premium-Oil-Absorbent/dp/B00MT3W29S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419232618&sr=8-1&keywords=greasweep
If you've power washed all the oil out and just have a stain, the litter/ash won't work. This will sound crazy but pour some transmission fluid on it and use the litter or ash. Transmission fluid has detergent in it and will float out the stain, the litter/ash will draw it out of the concrete.
Source: Veteran Mechanic with OCD.
My $100ish must have use everyday options include: cordless 3/8 ratchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZWBYBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Tw.2DbXFTMF30, lighting! a good rechargeable headlamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV3VTYB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aI.2DbYZ76FY7, flashlight or decent under hood light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTXC016/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sK.2Db40MCX8D, a portable jump box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mL.2DbX8E94SN or 24 cans of brake cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRPDW7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Du.2DbZ2WMZDE
PHOTOS
Knocked out a quick detail under the hood of my 2000 MK4 GTI VR6.
Rinsed it down with water.
Used air compressor to dry it off
Sprayed Griots Garage Engine Cleaner and agitated dirt with a brush
Hosed it down again
Dried with air compressor
Applied 303 on a microfiber and toweled everything down.
Pretty painless project, you just need to be careful applying the 303 because it streaks fairly easy if you use too much. Took me about an hour start to finish.
If this or this won't take it off, it's not coming off without just waiting for it to wear off.
I've done it twice. I used engine brushes, Chemtool B12, carb cleaner and a shop vac. Process is simple once the intake manifold is removed, soak the closed valves in B12 wait 20-45 minutes then go to town with the engine brushes once finished suck up dirty residue with shop vac. Once that's finished spray the closed valves with carb cleaner then again go to town with the drill then suck up the residue when you are finished. This process will need to be repeated a few times (till the valves are clean). Once those valves are clean rotate the crank and work on the other valves. In my experience you should have 4-6 valves closed at once. Be sure to suck up all the residue with the shop vac you don't want any lingering particles when you are done.
Here are is my before and after at 40K miles. Didn't notice much of a power difference just better idle and throttle response but my valves weren't that bad. I'm sure if they were worse it would have impacted performance a lot more.
edit
I use the engine brushes with a drill.
The fuel additive they add is the stuff that comes in top tier fuel anyways.
This is the stuff they try to sell you at the dealership.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Hyundai-00232-19047-Complete-Cleaner/dp/B00AKYOH8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478750437&sr=8-1&keywords=hyundai+fuel+system+cleaner
This is the exact same stuff for 1/4 the price and can be bought at any Wal-Mart or parts stores.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/16647989?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227025239943&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=71545448329&wl4=pla-161071186849&wl5=9030015&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16647989&wl13=&veh=sem
The only difference is they Hyundai fluid has the word Hyundai on the bottle, otherwise it is the exact same stuff. If you use Top Tier gas like Quick Trip or Exxonmobil it comes with the stuff in the gas already.
If you do end up needing the Techron additive its pretty easy to use just get your tank to empty, dump the bottle into the tank, and then fill the tank. Easy peeze.
All From Amazon Singapore:
Bearing Oil
https://www.amazon.com/YoYoFactory-Performance-Oil-Long-Spin/dp/B005NIXUO2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537459368&sr=8-1&keywords=yoyo+lube
Jizer alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-EB1CA-Original-Engine-Degreaser/dp/B0057HXI6Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537459694&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=gunk+engine+degreaser&psc=1
Alcohol:
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Electronics/dp/B0047YB3OW/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1537459778&sr=1-5&keywords=isopropyl+alcohol
Rocket Air Blower
https://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537459982&sr=1-3&keywords=rocket+air+blaster
OR these but they can spray out some propellant so I prefer the cheaper Rocket Blaster:
https://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Falcon-Professional-Electronics-Compressed/dp/B009XCK6PK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537460068&sr=1-6&keywords=compressed+air+duster
Personally, given the cost of R188 bearings and the huge choice which will let you taylor your spinner to your taste I would consider one of these! (Not from Amazon Singapore but the God of bearings!)
http://www.fzessentials.com/store/p161/608_To_R188_Bearing_Adapter_Upgrade_Kit__.html
Hope this helps,
Idle.
Do not go to a dealer for detailing work, ever. Dealer detailing departments are some of the worst things out there. I'm speaking both as someone who has 2 friends working at a BMW dealer, and someone who had a Ford dealer's detailing dept put scratches in the rear bumper of a brand new 2016 Mustang GT that won't come out.
I like using this stuff, you're going to need a few stiff bristle brushes as well
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https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-543200-755-Engine-Cold-Cleaner/dp/B00OA1QJZU
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if you need to go hard core
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https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-FEB1-Foamy-Engine-Cleaner/dp/B000ABGA6W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V91WZBBEDC95KC20P14J
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join up on /r/autodetailing as well
1.) Go to Autozone, grab some commercial degreaser like this. Simple green makes a degreaser that's also eco-friendly as well, but it takes a little more work. Also find a place to rent a pressure washer.
2.) Gut the kitchen area. Move all existing equipment either outside or to another area of the kitchen.
3.) Spray walls and floors....liberally.
4.) Drink half of 12 pack, or wait 30 minutes.
5.) Don a face shield and face mask. Turn hood vents on. Scrub the shit out of said walls and floors.
6.) Finish 12 pack.
7.) Again, suit up with face shield and face mask. Pressure wash the entire area. Bonus points if you manage to get it hooked up to the hotwater outlet next to the dishpit.
8.) Squeegee everything to the drains.
9.) Spray again.
10.) Squeegee everything to the drains.
11.) ???
12.) Profit.
This, and you can actually get some from a Chrysler/Dodge dealer, but here is an Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-Accessories-5018045AA-Electrical/dp/B00BV4D98Y
I've used this on electronic components (car and computer) for over a decade.
The part is either this one or this one but I couldn't find which one the Eco trim uses. Check with your VIN and it should tell you.
I couldn't find anything to that specific vehicle, but this is one for a 2011-2016 Elantra and looks to be similar. It doesn't look like a difficult swap.
I've never tried it in this application but you could also try some electronics cleaner if the issue is a dirty contact, it might help.
Citrol not petrol i hope you dont normally make assumptions like that ughh. https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Manufacturing-Cleaner-Industrial-Degreaser-x/dp/B00JF2LLHA
> I've been doing it from last 6-7 yrs without any bad results
FYI, this is not a "good source". it's fallacy to expect rhetorical experience like this to provide meaningful data.
I expect that you won't find anything definitive, because Sea Foam Sales Company will claim libel. I will tell you this, any product that claims to be as effective at so many different applications that isn't also peer-reviewed, is hokum.
If you want to clean your engine, change out your oil and coolant more often.
If you want to clean your fuel injectors, then use the product your OEM recommends. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Fluid-00289-EFI00-Cleaner/dp/B00C392U1S#productDetails
if you want to read discussion, this is a decent one. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=265339
I would try something like this oil absorbing powder..... Gets used in automotive situations frequently, so you may know someone who has some.
https://www.amazon.com/ESP-MM503-Universal-Absorbent-Absorbency/dp/B00BFIR9NC/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1475239568&sr=1-3&keywords=oil+absorbing+powder
OP, there's a polymer that absorbs 100x its weight in liquids and it's used in haz mat products and many other products today.
It's reusable. This one absorbs 10x its weight in water.
I've found this to be better than their other degreasers https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-Drivetrain-Cleaner-500-ml/dp/B008B39EMI
Had no issues spraying it all over the drivechain and its been easier to use than the aerosol cans. Thicker as well so it stays on the chain and mech.
Thank you! I am planning to get a degreaser and clean it. I hope this works Gunk 6868 5L Ultra Engine Degreaser https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006HFM8MA
Try some Blue Shower electronics cleaner by Tech Spray. It worked really well for me on some labels. It's plastic and electronics safe. I think they changed formula recently but it is still my go to cleaner after isopropyl alcohol.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T7YBGS/
https://www.techspray.com/p-17-g3-blue-shower-maintenance-cleaner.aspx
I have found Hydro-Seal II to be very good at removing deposits.
You don't want to breathe the fumes or get it on you skin. Plug one end of the suppressor, fill it with hydro-seal and leave it over night (or a couple days if need be). Then empty it and run a test tube brush through the suppressor and flush it clean with something like Gunk carb spray.
Don't use OLD used Hydro-Seal as it will build up acids which can attack metal catastrophically. The clean HS will not harm metals. I once soaked a motorcycle carb in a bucket of old HS and forgot about it. A couple months later I pulled up the basket and the entire carburetor had dissolved into a lump of gray mush. I also placed a painted padlock key into the bucket and forgot about it, when I pulled the basket, the key was there and bright and shiney. When I tried to pick it up it just disintegrated. The HS had dissolved all the brass and left only the chrome plating which instantly broke apart when I touched it.
You can get it at some of the better auto parts stores. Here's a link to Amazon for four gallons of it.
http://www.amazon.com/Gunk-HS3-4PK-Hydro-Heavy-Cleaner/dp/B00BGSF92E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463169354&sr=8-1&keywords=Gunk+HS3-4PK+Hydro+Seal+Heavy+Duty+Parts+Cleaner
EDIT: I use Hydro Seal II on my suppressors with zero problems. Actually the OLD used HSII works well too you just have to be careful no to expose the metal for too long. I have containers of both. HSII is strange stuff, it becomes increasingly good at cleaning the older it gets but at some point it can be too good.