(Part 2) Best fiber optic cables according to redditors
We found 421 Reddit comments discussing the best fiber optic cables. We ranked the 190 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![FosPower (3 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink Digital Optical Audio Cable (S/PDIF) - [Zero RFI & EMI Interference] Metal Connectors & Ultra Durable Nylon Braided Jacket](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51DIz2oBQgL.jpg)
Why plug in a Chromecast Audio with basic analog cables when it supports an optical connection?
Adapter or Cable would both work really well and you wont have any crappy line noise.
So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.
I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.
You should be using something like this as you'll have issues with Ethernet at a run that long
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Multimode-500-ft-N520-152M/dp/B000NMAB2W
Indeed - I was mostly referring to driver latency and in an academic capacity, which should be negligible anyway and is either below or at the same level as the software keyboard buffer - my point was that one or other may be faster, completely ignoring the fact that both should be below a millisecond and would be completely imperceptible to anybody. From that perspective this whole thing is wandering into gold-plated optical SPDIF cable territory ;)
Here's what I do, when I want to use headphones with my home theater:
https://np.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/b2uf74/netflix_and_spdif/eiv2c74/
TL;DR: active TOSLINK splitter from TV output to receiver and a TOSLINK-to-miniTOS cable. Monolith Portable amp with miniTOS input. When I need cans, I turn off the receiver and plug in the portable.
I'd say this is less silly than the gold plated Toslink connectors... Yes, the optical connector. That doesn't have any electrical connection. It's a plastic fibre (and I'm quite certain they use plastic and not high quality glass like telcoms would use)
e.g. https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Plated-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00T6OVR8K
Then again, at least those cables are pretty reasonably priced. A $1000 ethernet cable is just stupid.
It looks like a mini Toslink. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/Toslink-Fosmon-Digital-Optical-Chromecast/dp/B01N6KZU6N/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502973571&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+optical+cable
長光 Bostik 粘着ラバー ブル・タック 45g https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B0010ZMQHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K3JRDbVVWSS49
Suggest you get a good Ethernet cable to hook up to TV. And some of the following...
For hooking up external hard drives to TV:
UGREEN Micro USB 3.0 Cable USB 3.0 Type A Male to Micro B Cord for Samsung Galaxy S5, Note 3, Camera, Hard Drive and More 1.5ft Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0C4M3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XmB0BbWDV1P80
For sound bar/home theater receiver:
Cable Matters Gold Plated Toslink Digital Optical Audio Cable with Metal Connectors and Braided Jacket 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099UWHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xoB0BbRBVJDTY
For HDMI cables:
Monoprice 115429 Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, 4K @ 60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, 10ft, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKK82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4nB0BbPYT4BVJ
Not really... switch / gbic module / fiber (very superficial amazon search)
Optical out works fine. You need a special cable though to make it work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZQWM54/
Optical out has issues with Plex currently but hopefully Android 7 will fix that
RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B01ALMYOHQ/.
Optical cable: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Toslink/dp/B06WVD4D6W/.
PS4 > optical cable > Modi 3 > RCA cables > Magni > headphones
Connect the ModMic into your PS4 controller.
Optical is preferable over analog as an interconnect but it comes down to where your system is doing the conversions between analog/digital. Your laptop does an digital to analog conversion and then feeds it to an amp for the 3.5mm connection which then goes to the receiver and likely undergoes another conversion to digital and then back to analog before the amp driving the speakers.
The gains may be negligible but by connecting the PC to the receiver using optical, you skip two conversions since the signal from the laptop remains digital until the last step before the amplifier input. Considering that the cable is $5, it's certainly worth it if you already have optical output from your laptop. You wouldn't need a sound card in this case.
What 2ch receiver and laptop are you using?
Blu Tack also exists as Blu Tack... https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B0010ZMQHE/
I had the same issue finding an HDMI cable that could do 4k60 with HDR at 30ft. The only one I could find that worked was an HDMI over fiber cable. This is the one I'm using.
Unfortunately it's quite expensive but after having tried like three other copper ones that ranged from $30 to $70, I can confirm that this one works perfectly. I use it to connect my PC to my TV and I can get full range RGB and 12bpc 4:4:4 subsampling with it at 4k60 with zero issues.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V7NOV3Q
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076C6PDNH
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YFPM2CU
Analog or optical?
Your mobo has optical SPDIF, so you need this:
https://www.amazon.com/EMK-Digital-Optical-Toslink-braided/dp/B075T6HDDK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518988486&sr=1-4&keywords=spdif+mini+optical
It converts TRS/jack type optical SPDIF to the more common square connector that you then connect into your receiver.
It is a dual purpose audio port. It can accept 3.5mm (DAC is in the computer) to 3.5/RCA aux analog - or - Mini-TOSLINK to a standalone DAC with (standard) TOSLINK to 3.5/RCA aux.
Or use a USB DAC to 3.5/RCA aux.
Or if you have a receiver with an optical digital input, Mini-TOSLINK to (standard) TOSLINK.
Also see the Zeos guide.
Can use an optical cable from your MB to reciever. Then all speakers including sub connect direct to your reciever
https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Plated-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00T6OVRZS
The perfect cable to go with this.
SMH
This is what I'm looking at. I figured it was too good to be true. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V7NOV3Q/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=A3CMOOTCHB9X54&psc=1#
Ok cool. Would something like this work as well?
Do you lose any quality using a splitter?
And a quick add-up. I got curious and indeed there are both optical USB and HDMI extensions ~30 feet, available at roughly $160 each. Ouch. If you decide to go absolute madman route and stretch those from your PC - I am very curious what kind of latency you'd get, so if you do - please, pretty please write a post about it and tag me :)
First of all Rule 3 > Tech Support // your thread has been removed
> how do I rig this up to my desktop?
If you have the Modi 2 Uber and your PC mainboard has an optical output you should use the Optical (aka. Toslink) connection.
In case your mobo does not have an optical output, use USB. COAX is only featured on some sound cards.
> how would I rig this up to my speakers when I get them in future?
You MUST get a set of active stereo speakers. Passive speakers will not work with the Magni 2 Uber. The most common pick for the budget minded is the JBL LSR305 powered nearfield studio monitor.
All you need to do: Get a RCA male > 6.3TS mono male cable and connect the pre-out on the back of the Magni 2 Uber to the unbalanced input on the back of the LSR305. This way your Magni 2 controls the volume of the speakers.
As a bonus: The Magni 2 Uber has a mute relay. If you connect headphones, the speakers mute, disconnecting the headphone routes audio to the speakers.
> but what would be the ideal set up to connect these guys to desktop?
The Magni 2 is not connected to the desktop, only the Modi.
Chain looks like this:
If you use an optical connection the entire USB noise story is out of the question. If you must use USB, you need a decent mobo that doesn't transfer noise to the DAC.
Your TV, like most modern TVs has only has 1 Audio Out connection, which is for a Toslink, Optical, Digital cable, like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Toslink-Cable-Feet-Optical/dp/B004LSNF04
Connects here on your TV...
https://s26.postimg.org/spmu3iq21/Image_003.jpg
All of the other Audio connections on your TV are Audio Inputs, not Audio Outputs.
You will need a converter like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA
...since your old Sony sound system doesn't have a Toslink, Optical, Digital Audio Input or at least I don't see one in the pic you posted.
https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Compatible/dp/B00RF8F212/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478824306&sr=8-5&keywords=optical+switcher
Hey all! Looking to set up a basic, relatively cheap 2.0/2.1 (built-in subwoofers) sound system for a living room projector, primarily for use with an Xbox One. Doesn't need to be very loud or huge on audio fidelity, but after taking a look at the subreddit I've got the following parts list, but I wanted to make sure everything looked correct with the DAC and how it would work with the Xbox.
Thanks for the advice/help!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVD4D6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey, I just wanted to close the loop here. I bought a splitter and it worked!
The headphones pair to the Bluetooth transmitter automatically, and there doesn't appear to be any audio quality loss from splitting the signal to the soundbar and transmitter.
Transmitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KO1JNCA/
Splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1KHWGB
/u/knerdedout Hey, I didn't know where to comment this at, since I've already replied. hopefully mods will understand the multipost.
This is what we found. It works WITHOUT the power cable. NO idea why.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSBNYH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for the HDMI, those are expensive..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XS8T2W4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
8-6-19 edit
Windows 7 machine don't like the cable. Atleast win 7 dell models: 790-7010-7020
I'm struggling to get these setup correctly. Here is what I bought.
I bought this switcher: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RF8F212/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this adaptor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011O0N0UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I run a cable from the Playbar to the switcher. Then from the switcher to 1 - the convertor which is connected to the turntable and 2 - the TV.
But I'm not getting any sound at all with this setup.
These should work. Just make sure to test it in place before running the fiber through the walls.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GVM75B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_aRRzDb9FQXAAX
https://www.amazon.com/TEZONG-Coupler-Adapter-Singlemode-connector/dp/B07CZWM4PD
This or something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TEZONG-Coupler-Adapter-Singlemode-connector/dp/B07CZWM4PD
BlueRigger Digital Optical Audio Cable (Toslink Cable, 10 Feet)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LJQNQU/
The longer options are rated for in-wall use (CL3)
You will also need an optical cord: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Audio-Optical-TOSLink-Cable/dp/B0002MQGOA/ref=pd_sim_e_2
I don't think your model does, but if your speakers had an optical in jack, you would only need the cord.
Looking at either this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC%C2%AE-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474419668&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWM54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474419474&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+optical
https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B0010ZMQHE
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-N520-152M-Multimode-Duplex/dp/B000NMAB2W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1330973045&sr=8-6
and
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-MCMGBSC055/dp/B002UANHKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1330973033&sr=8-3
There are cheaper methods if this is for just a home style project, and there are better methods if this is an enterprise setting. Should work just fine for small or medium business though or if there are other considerations to take into account.
You can get Apple TOSLINK optical cables up to 50 ft on Amazon at a sensible price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7MUGBO
There is no significant difference in transmission quality or power consumption . But Bluetooth is free and working now. While TOSLINK will cost you the time, expense and inconvenience of a physical cable.
You can get Apple TOSLINK optical cables up to 15.2 meters on Amazon at a sensible price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7MUGBO
There is no significant difference in transmission quality or power consumption . But Bluetooth is free and working now. While TOSLINK will cost you the time, expense and inconvenience of a physical cable.
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Fiber optic cable for stereo sound.
Same cable, or very similar, on Amazon
You can get an digital to analog audio converter and use the optical out on the Xbox for audio. Don't forget a cable if you don't have one already.
After some more looking around I think that i have settled on getting this tv, Focusrite, digital from tv to focusrite, and these cables to the JBLs. I believe this will be a pretty solid setup, I made sure the tv is compatible and has the digital out. Unless anyone has other options or input that would be better I think ill be set with this. Based heavily on this review on amazon.
edit: after some more looking around im wondering if its worth getting the focusrite 2i2 for balanced outputs
> The unit itself has no digital inputs and has two analog RCA inputs.
If this PDF is the right manual, then it actually does have a digital input. See page 65. Item #7 is labeled "DIGITAL IN" and "OPTICAL".
That's a Toslink / SPDIF connector, and it's very possible your TV has a Toslink output. If it does, things may be as simple as using a Toslink cable to hook your TV's output to this input.
As for surround sound, a Toslink cable can carry Dolby Digital or DTS for surround sound. It looks like the DAV-S300 can decode that, so if your TV can send that (may require adjusting settings), you might be able to get surround sound this way.
Agree. Especially if you're going to be converting it down to RCA. You're paying for the Monster brand, not better quality.
Here's a 10ft Optical Cable for 8 dollars with better reviews than the Monster.
No you need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWM54
Mini side in Chromecast and full size into dac
I think i have a solution. So if i get a sound card with a digital toslink https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132020
I could then route the pc and the ps4 into this switch Fiber Optical Splitter Switch - Andul 3 Way in/Out Digital Toslink Optical Audio Splitter Manual Switch with 2.6ft Fiber Optic Cable(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GTXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_n6U2CbY0J8GVJ
Then i could just plug that said switch into this analog converter Portta Audio Converter Analog R/L RCA to Digital Coax/ Toslink Audio Converter Support Stereo LPCM CH2.0 without Decode Function for PS3 XBox HD DVD PS4 Sky HD Plasma Blu-ray Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATNWBZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_V8U2CbBSYSRZ6
And the speakers into the back of that converter.
That would work right? Lmao
Could I use this, run it into the receivers optical in, and then run one cable to Xbox and one to the TV?
So you basically need an optical cable. No copper cable can do hdmi at 50 feet correctly. I have had both and use the optical one only now. It worked for 1080 P but won’t for anything above that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XS8T2W4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_lllWCb4HYXG34
Behold
So i could use something like this To connect to my 3.5mm input on my audio interface? "https://www.amazon.com/EMK-Toslink-Digital-Optical-Playstation/dp/B075T6HDDK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1541287183&sr=8-8&keywords=3.5MM+to+Optical+audio+SPDIF+adapter+cable"