(Part 3) Best fish & aquatic pets according to redditors

Since it seems like this is getting quite a bit of attention i will do a full breakdown.

The tank is a WaterBox 6 gallon which i saw at a big box store for around $40The driftwood is spiderwood also from the big box store it was $20The soil was the leftovers from a bag of Fluval Stratum $18 (Probably used about half of that)The grass is Sagitaria Subulata, the LFS said it was dwarf sag, but i am not so sure. Took these out of my 20 gallonThe plant halfway up the driftwood is Bucephlandra, not sure which variant, it was from the lfs as wellThe top plant which is emergent i am not so sure on i am thinking it is some type of sword but it was from a big box store last year and i have totally forgotten what it is.The light fixture is a Lominie LED Aquarium Light, $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


EDIT: oh and the stones are petrafied wood from a craft store.

Are you kidding me?! That’s ridiculously small, he can barely turn around!!!

Jokes aside, it’s a great water volume for him, but it might be a tad deep. They need to reach the surface to breathe with their labyrinth organ, and while they can process air through their gills as well, they do need to reach the surface since most of their air intake is through their labyrinth. I would be concerned with his ability to reach the surface expediently if down low. He will probably spend most of his time near the surface, so I would recommend some floating plants, floating decorations, or they even make fake leaves on suction cups specifically so bettas have a place to rest near the surface.

Thanks! I didn't want to make people think I was selling a product to them or something... but here's an amazon link to what I bought :)

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526231723&sr=8-2&keywords=breeder+box

Breeder boxes are fine but you still need a larger habitat overall. I use this one, it is great.

Marina Hang-On Breeding Box, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OogjusLKNxMrt

Looks like you didn't rinse the gravel before adding it to the tank.

Get yourself an Aquarium Gravel Siphon and a bucket.

A few things I would change though, to improve the setup and make this 3.5g tank work out for the betta... (PLEASE READ and bear with me, I know it's long but you'll learn a lot I promise!)

1. That's WAYYY TOOO MUCH GRAVEL... jeez damn, that alone is taking at least 2+ inches of what could have been more water space + going to trap a TONNNN of debris with all that gravel... my recommendation would be to remove enough of it until the small finer gravel just barely reaches a bit above the level of black frame at the bottom of the tank, and then have the larger pebbles/rocks on top.
   
2. Fill the water till it's about 1 cm below the top black rim frame of the tank (that's how much I used to fill mine up to when I had the exact same TopFin 3.5g tanks).
   
3. I highly recommend these silk plants, both packs:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KGBJ06 AND https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BG2TEAWith both packs, your tank will have nice and sufficient silk plant coverage. The taller plants towards the back, and the shorter ones to the front, those 4 will form a perfect mini jungle your betta will absolutely enjoy. You could try doing easy lowlight plants like Java Fern, but having had the same tank before, I think the rainbow LED light it comes with is far to dim to sustain most plants. Still you could try and see if java fern will be ok (they don't like their bulbous rhizomes buried though, so only bury the bit of the roots sticking out below the bulby-pill-shaped rhizomes).
   
4. Add 3-4 medium or large marimo moss balls (they look nice and they do eat up some of the toxins in the water) + Java moss [wrap some java moss around cables (heater cables)].
   
5. Add a 18-25w heater, preferably manually adjustable rather than preset, bettas absolutely DO need a heater, especially for winter months when its chilly. Their preferred comfy temperature needs to be kept at 78-80F. I do remember Petsmart has an 18w preset heater that's supposed to maintain 77 or 78F but I don't trust it, you can try it if you want but a manually adjustable heater is more accurate.
   
6. Ditch the included carbon cartridge (replacing that once per month is a money-grabbing gimmick by the pet store, because you should only ever need carbon filtration to remove medicine after a medicinal treatment of a sick betta, it's not really useful filtration otherwise). I recommend filling the big filter space with aquarium sponges cut down to size, towards the front of the filter where the outflow is + TopFin Quartz bioballs (you can buy a whole carton of them for a nice price) towards the back-half.
   
   1. https://www.amazon.com/3IN1-BIO-SPONGE-Biochemical-Sponge-QUACLEAR/dp/B00VPL0V0W <-- this pack includes fine, medium, and coarse sponges that you can layer inside the filter front (cut them down to size to fit if needed). Maintenance is the occasional gentle swish of the filter sponges in old tank water (NEVER RINSE IN STRAIGHT TAP WATER), about every two weeks or so (depending how gunked up they get).
      
   2. Add as much TopFin Quartz Bioballs (rinse them first in dechlorinated water) as fits in the space behind the filter sponges mentioned above.
      
      Other things you'll definitely need to have, and/or do:
      
      
7. API Freshwater Master Test Kit - You're definitely going to have to Fish-In cycle that 3.5g tank which means DAILY 25%-30% partial water changes to keep ammonia & nitrites low (you want those close to zero as possible to reduce poisoning of your betta during the process, so you need this test kit to be able to keep a careful watch on the ammonia and nitrite levels). ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
   
8. Seachem Prime - best water dechlorinator out there, and perfect for Fish-In cycling because it helps temporarily neutralize smaller amounts of ammonia (under 1ppm).
   
9. Seachem Stability - beneficial bacteria blend which you'll need for establishing a nitrogen cycle.
   
10. Gravel Vacuum (mini size is good for 3.5g) - mandatory must-have item for tank maintenance, how else are you gonna siphon out the poo and food waste from the bottom of the tank? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ should be perfect size for your tank.
    
11. 5g bucket (yes I know that's more than what your tank water volume is, but imagine having only a 3g bucket and you're trying to carry it to be dumped, or to carry it for a refill and it's going to be sloshing around as you walk, so a larger bucket will help reduce spills from some sloshing.)
    
12. NorthFin Betta Bits - one of the best quality betta pellets out there (little or no fillers, high quality ingredients, no nasty toxic preservatives) https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/
    
    Also PLEASE watch out with the overfeeding, your betta in this video clip looks super bloated (his little tiny belly looks about ready to burst, he's so stuffed). You need to fast him for 3-4 days until his belly looks almost flat again, then you can try giving him some daphnia as a mild laxative to help him clear out any further blockage (not to mention a heater to warm the water to a stable 78-80F will help his metabolism so he can process the food properly).
    
    Here's a reference of photos to help you determine how much food his little belly needs: https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg (feed slowly 1 piece at a time, watch his belly, and aim not to let it get too far past the 2nd from the top picture).
    
    Please read these articles to learn more how to give your boi the best quality of life: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
    
    Only once your tank is fully cycled (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 5-15ppm nitrAte) for a 3.5g tank, you will need to do one 30% partial water change (PWC) mid-week (Wednesday for example), and one 30% PWC at end of week (Sunday for example). Or if you won't be there over the weekend then do 1 PWC Tues. and 1 on Friday.
    
    Good luck!

I never know if posts like these are troll posts or not. I'm assuming that by having to confidence to post a picture of your fish, you've at least browsed through other people's posts and seen the proper conditions that a betta fish should be kept in.


I'm really hoping that either this is a troll post, or that you just have no idea that the conditions you've kept your fish in are borderline inhumane. :/ He has horrible fin rot, and is missing the whole top part of his fins. Before you come back with "but he's been with us for FOUR years, he must be okay!" I can keep a dog in a closet for years with food and water and he'd probably live a long time too. Ever heard about that woman who was kidnapped and kept in confinement for 18 years? A being's conditions won't kill them immediately, but the stresses of their environments will cause them to lead miserable lives.


In case you care about him, he needs a few (super, SUPER easy) things.

• A bigger tank. ASAP. At least 2.5 gallons, but 5 is better and only a couple dollars more at petco. 5 gallon tanks are about $15 at Petco.
  
  
• A heater for that bigger tank. Bettas are tropical fish and they NEED warmer temps. 76-80 degrees. A decent heater (I use the Hydor Theo 25 watt heater) will set you back $18.
  
  
• A filter. You can find many of these for a decent price, but for small tanks I prefer the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter. These are roughly $20.
  
  
  The total cost of getting your friend an ideal setup is about $53. You'll notice a huge difference in the behavior of your betta, and he'll be much happier. I can't stress this enough; he is not happy, and your friend of 4 years deserves better. This post was NOT made in anger, but rather in concern for you and your fish. Please take this advice, and remember to cycle the tank!
  
  

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

It sounds like Swim Bladder Disorder, which, while alarming to see, is actually not life threatening in most cases. He will most likely heal on his own in time, if you give him a good suitable environment for him.

I recommend Seachem Prime as a water conditioner, it's the board favourite around here and the good thing about it is that it converts ammonia (produced from fish waste and anything else decomposing in the tank, is toxic to fish) into a harmless form for 24 hours. Since you do not have the Nitrogen cycle established in your tank, this property will be very useful in keeping your fish comfortable while the cycle gets started.

If you don't know what it is yet, please read this article about the Nitrogen Cycle and then this guide to Fish-in Cycling. This is not optional information in fishkeeping!

By the way, those fake plants you have--bettas have very delicate fins that are easily torn on the typical plastic aquarium plant; here we have something that's referred to as the "pantyhose test", which is basically what it sounds like--stretch a pair of pantyhose over your fingers, and run it over any tank decorations you have. If the decorations snag the pantyhose, they are rough/sharp enough to tear a betta's fins. For this reason, silk fabric plants are recommended for betta tanks over plastic plants. Make sure any hides you have for him don't have any holes small enough that he'd get stuck (I learned this one the hard way), bettas are curious fish and like to stick their heads in everything.

I posted this list of affordable but good tank supplies for someone else yesterday, so here you go:

Here is a list of affordable supplies:

Aqueon Quietflow Filter, $14. I replaced the filter cartridges inside this unit with ceramic filter media (gives nitrifying good bacteria a place to grow for biological filtration) and Seachem Purigen (absorbs organic waste) along with a good chunk of filter floss (way cheaper than buying filter pads) to make it more effective, but it's not strictly necessary if you're on a budget.

Hydor Theo Submersible Glass Heater, $20. This is my favourite heater, I've set up five tanks so far using this model. It heats up well, holds the temperature steady automatically, and it's adjustable, so if you ever need to turn up the temperature (sometimes needed to treat illness), you're all set.

Seachem Prime, $5

API Master Testing Kit, $19. This is extremely helpful to have when setting up your tank, so you can test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your water. All three are toxic to fish in high quantities, in order of most to least bad.

If your betta is sulky or a picky eater, you can try tempting him with freeze-dried bloodworms (but feed very little, as they expand when they get wet and are super fattening) or soaking his pellets in garlic juice.

Edit: Also, yeah, do not feed him "generic" fish pellets. Bettas are carnivores and need to be fed as such. I suggest Hikari Bio-Gold betta pellets.

Found this on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMX1C

Absolutely. DIY CO2 is ridiculously easy. I’m not that technically inclined so if I can do it anyone can. This may seem like a lot but it’s not as bad as it looks. I used to use the Fluval 88g CO2 system but it was ludicrously expensive to but the proprietary refill canisters. This setup is soooo cheap and completely reliable and produces ample CO2. I’m happy to tell you some pitfalls once you get it set up because it would be hard for you to follow me without having it in front of you.

DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o0JPDbTTNQCT0

Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_40JPDb482G6RQ

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-3JPDbJ43F4ZG

Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_34JPDb122FQKM

ARM & HAMMER Pure Baking Soda 8 oz (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00860VYYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5JPDb8FKP7NN

2 x normal 2 liter soda bottles

It’s a nice little light. I have one on each of my nano tanks.

Here is the link for those in the USA.

I’ve had this light for almost two years now and after revisiting this link, I just noticed they used my photos in their product description so that’s mildly interesting.

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

If you can manage a little over $35 I'd recommend this tank from [Amazon] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KIRR8BY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oGiMzbMSHNNS5). After that some nice aquatic plants like an [Amazon sword] (http://www.aquariumcarebasics.com/aquarium-plants/amazon-sword-plant/) or [Anubias] (http://www.aquariumcarebasics.com/aquarium-plants/anubias-barteri/), bettas love broad leaves, and a heater. Finnley will be the happiest guy in town.

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.
HOLY CRAP.

Okay, I'm going to save you from a dead fish here, alright?
Water contains a few chemicals for treatment to make it safe for us to drink, one of them is chlorine, in that same family...there is also chloramine.
These burn the hell out of fish's gills. Its dangerous.

Get yourself a bottle of seachem prime. Its a dechlorinator. This will make it safe your fish to even exist in the water.

Second, read about fishless cycling

Since it sounds like you're getting the betta soon. You can read about fish in cycling
You can use that handy dandy bottle of seachem prime dechlorinator to also detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about 48 hours per dose. ONLY PRIME DOES THIS, not any other dechlorinators.

You see, filters on fishtanks contain a happy little bacteria colony that takes fish waste (Ammonia) turns it into a harmful nitrite, then turns it into relatively harmless nitrate. It keeps your fish stress free and also, if those toxin levels get to high--it kills them/ or makes them susceptible to disease. You can check the levels with this test kit

Bettas enjoy low flow in their fishtanks because they aren't the strongest of swimmers. I recommend a sponge filter. They also like their tank between 78-80 degrees. So a good heater is a MUST.

No problem! I love this kind of stuff! Neon tetras is what you had? Those are great beginners but they are kind of small. Platties are a good beginner fish that do best in groups of about 3 or 4, especially in a ten gallon. They get to be about 2-3 inches long, and come in many bright, beautiful colors! They also look really pretty when the tank is decorated! Black skirt tetras are also really hardy, and do well in groups! If you wanted variety, you could also throw in a mystery snail or two!

Tanks are pretty easy to shop for. Honestly, the best place I have found is amazon. There are two routes to take. The first is that you could buy all of the parts separately, or you could buy a kit with most of hte stuff oyu need. For beginners, I definitely reccomend getting a kit. This is a pretty good kit that runs pretty cheap! You'll also need a heater for a 10 gallon tank. I use this one because it can be placed either along the wall of the aquarium or along the bottom. You'll also need substrate, or gravel/sand for your aquarium to make it look really nice and to give good bacteria a medium to grow on! This is essentially a preference for what you want your tank to look like! I use this because I like to make my tank look pretty natural, but it is entirely up to you! The most basic rule is you need about 1 pound of substrate per gallon of aquarium. Also, you need to get a gravel vacuum to clean the gravel. I use a small one for my tank because it lets me be more precise. You'll also need some water conditioner to make your tap water safe for fish! Some people use aquarium salt in their tanks, but I've found it's not entirely necessary. You'll also want to get some plastic/silk plants for your tank! Live plants are preferable, but with a 10 gallon tank fake will be fine! Silk is usually recommended because it has less of a tendency to rip fins, but plastic works fine!

So, essentially the bare bones of what you need are:

• 10 gallon tank kit ~$70 (if you go to places like PetsMart or PetCo, you might be lucky and find one on sale for like $30-$50!)
  
• 10 gallon heater ~$15
  
• About 10 lbs of substrate or gravel ~$15-$20
  
• Water conditioner ~$12
  
• Fish food (flakes, pellets, blood worms, etc.) ~$4
  
• Gravel vacuum ~$8
  
• Decorations ~$10-$20 depending on how much you want in your tank
  
  Total: ~$130
  
  All of these prices are from Amazon and my own experience, and can vary greatly from store to store. Especially during sales and such. You might get lucky and get all of this stuff for less that $100! It really does depend on where you are and what's available around you!
  
  If you have any other questions, please let me know!

The 0.7 gallon will likely kill him fairly quickly. I wouldn't hold off too long.

You can do a little bit to make what you've got a bit better. Consider daily water changes (using the conditioner and making sure to temperature match the incoming water). Also make sure to keep the cube at as warm and as stable a temperature as possible (fighters prefer 25-27 degrees C). Ultimately though there's not really much you can do with it (even with the extra work it's far from ideal). I'd recommend an upgrade ASAP.

If budget is a problem, you can use a plastic tub (clean, but without any residue from soap, etc. I recommend new tubs or ones that have been used to store clean, dry stuff (books, etc) only) as a tank. Filters can be had for dirt cheap (like this plus a $10 air pump from petsmart, etc). Heaters are an item you probably shouldn't cheap out on (I like these ones); because you really don't want a heater failure. That will give you a basic, livable situation from that you can then work on over time.

*edit: fixed link

Here is the same product for $3.92 plus free shipping on Amazon.

Always research something before buying, that "originally $9.95" is bs, as are all the original prices on that site....a site that was registered 2 weeks ago.

Plus this website is getting posted by some sketchy reddit user that uses multiple accounts to spam his youtube channel all day.

https://www.reddit.com/user/BestBeating
https://www.reddit.com/user/LunacyChillout
https://www.reddit.com/user/FalseLunacy

Step one:

Purchase

• http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1380759544&sr=1-1&keywords=AQUATEK+paintball
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_3
  
  
• Also --> Grab a tank at your local paintball/sporting goods store.
  
  Step two: Put everything together
  
  Step three: Profit!
  
  EDIT: A few extra things that I remembered and also mentioned below. The regulator comes with a bubble counter, but for NOT come with tubing! You will need to buy the tubing, diffuser, and the co2 indicator. Amazon sells everything you need and is free shipping with their Super Saver option.
  
  

I was lugging water from the store with a couple of these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Reliance-Aqua-Tainer-Water-Container-7-Gallon/872426

Got tired of that so I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/

On brewday I collect water out of the carbon filter and cut that with R/O from a jug. Ratio depends on my grist bill but I usually don't need a full 7 Gallons of R/O, much less 14.

While I brew I refill the jug with R/O. Waste hose gets tossed around the garden. Jug is full again by cleanup. The little water hose even fits in the air vent hole on the jug.

Bing-bang-boom. $60 initial investment. Pays for itself (sans-water costs, but also sans gas costs filling the jugs) after 25 brews.

Hey Phantomsgf! I also have a fluval tank and man those filters are strong! I hunted around for ages and I found a really easy, really cheap solution: buy a pre-filter sponge and pop it onto the filter output. Make sure, of course, that the filter motor is at the lowest setting, but even that is too strong for a betta. You really need the sponge.

If you're having trouble with the filter intake, which are the vertical cuts in the plastic, I guess you could put some mesh over it to, again, slow down the flow. I don't have my betta yet so I'm not sure if this will be a problem.

You might also want to get a thermometer and verify your water's temperature. If it's always about 100 degrees inside your house, even at night, then yes, I'd believe that the water is warm enough for your little guy. But it has to be really really really hot to keep a fish tank at 80 degrees.

As for cycling, you're basically going to have to do a lot of water changes really often. My instinct, which is amateur, says to do 50% a day every day. I also learned from experience that you should let water sit for a while to warm up before putting it in the tank or the temperature drops like crazy.

You can check out products like this that claim to add the bacteria to your tank that eat fish waste. Do they work or is it a myth? I don't know. But for tiny tiny tanks like the fluval you have, you will definitely need a water dropper that can measure a tenth of a millimeter to put this stuff in your tank.

Anyway. Those are my tips. And when you do get a heater, you can fit it where the filter output plastic tube is! So cool!

Oh: look at this leaf. So cute.

Nice little tank.

A few things that helped my betta in his 3 gallon were a leaf to rest on and also something to swim around/hide in.

I thought the leaf was an odd idea at first, but if you put it about an inch below the waterline it works well. My betta didn't use it at first, but once he got acclimated to it I could catch him resting on it quite often. I think it works well because they have to get up to the air to breathe, but sometimes enjoy resting, this gives them an area to perch and easily get air.

The vase took a little longer for the betta to get used to it, and I was worried about it being sharp and cutting him. However, he swims in and out of it no problem now, but I don't think he uses it to hide much, he's pretty bold. Still gives him something more to do since the tank is so small.

40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.

As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.

CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping

Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.

Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.

Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it

You might be able to order it online and pick it up at the store. Otherwise I'm struggling to find a kit that fits the budget that isn't completely crap quality.

You really want a 5g min for long-term care, but a 2.5g tank is a better alternative than a bowl. This heater is a good choice.

The 5g version of that tank would of course be much better, but I don't know what your friend can afford.

Make sure he gets some hides too - live plants ideally, but silk plants are fine too. No plastic plants!

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

I'd get a single 48" simply because it's 1 power cable instead of 2.

If you're already looking at the Finnex Planted+, you should consider about the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 for its built-in timer and color modes (sunrise, sunset, moonlight, etc).

If I had the need and the wherewithal, Mr. Banks... this would be my light fixture of choice.

This light - Lominie LED Aquarium Light, Saltwater Freshwater Fish Tank Light for Coral, Planted Nano Aquarium Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cI.kDb2C4TDS0

This is a 5 gallon glass vase I got off houzz.

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa/146-1421938-5452528?ie=UTF8&qid=1526747637&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hipargero+led&psc=1

I use this on a 16 bow front with wonderful success. Soft corals and lps. However it is not programmable in any way. For the money it’s amazing, but the best light on the market for smaller tanks is the AI Prime HD. Can’t beat it for quality, watt strength and programmability. Under 300 is no problem.

Asta 20 - Dimmable LED (Planted Version) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I.hQBbA46X1P2

Really love this little light. Super bright, nice and compact, and it comes with different lenses that angle the light differently.

Repeating and adding on to what's already been said, neither would do well in that "tank". It's too small for any fish to live comfortably and doesn't allow for many if the things needed for fish to thrive. Because you're asking a question like this you must be new to fish keeping, which isn't a bad thing. As far as the tank goes, I would try and return it if possible. Like /u/_ataraxia said, goldfish need 30-40 gallons, minimum. To better display the reason why, here is a comparason of the goldfish you buy at the store to a full grown adult. Bettas also need larger, 2.5 gallons is the semi-agreed upon minimum for bettas. I put "semi" there because many argue that 5 or 10 gallons should be the minimum.

If you want to get some fish for you daughter and care for them in a humane way I'd invest in a 10 gallon tank. 10s are small enough to be affordable for beginners and allow for more than one fish to be kept in the tank. /u/kamikazeX already mentioned that petco has a $1 per gallon sale on now which you should really take advantage of if you want to commit to this. Personally, I think a 20 gallon long tank would be much better and would only cost about $10-15 more to set up and will make your life easier. Believe it or not bigger is better and the bigger the tank the less maintenance you have to do. For things you should research a small list would be:

• The nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank without fish, you may want to add fish right away but that would likely kill them due to ammonia poisoning
  
  
• What fish can fit in your tank
  
  
• Please, please, pleeeaaaaaaaaase research an individual fish before buying it. All too often people buy baby common plecos aka "sucker fish" when they're little, without knowing that they get massive
  
  As far as what I'd recommend buying to get started is:
  
  
• 20 Gallon long or 10 galon (up to you, but the 20 is easier to care for)
  
  
• Aquaclear 50 (if you wanted to go with the 20) or an Aquaclear 30 (for a 10 gallon)
  
  
• Black sand (the colorful gravel may be appealing, but the paint can wear off). I say black because with the darker substrate fish show more natural colors and look better.
  
  
• Fake or real plants and some rocks or caves (personally I think that the more natural the better, and live plants help manage nitrates)
  
  
• Decent lights
  
• Small heater or an appropriate size
  
  There may be similar products for lower prices, but with aquariums you always want to buy nice, not twice. When/if you get a proper tank and it is time to add fish go to trhe store and find the ones you like, write down what they are and leave. Don't buy them, leave. Go home and do your research so you know how to care for what you're getting and that it will do well in your tank. The last time I bought fish I had done a week of research on what I was buying.

An airstone doesn't defuse co2 properly, it's very inefficient, I suggest grabbing a DIY co2 regulator, diffuser, and a bubble counter if you wish on amazon, should cost you twenty-five dollars or so, you'll see a huge difference.

DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJyuyb1E5K3FV

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULyuybPW9C6G2

Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKyuybDD5AXPX

Zoo Med Floating Betta Log https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ITKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WB56AbSR828Z2

EDIT: JUST BOUGHT ONE

This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.

You have to keep tank clean by any means necessary, removing wastes as soon as possible is a part of routine. Just do it by using thin hose or a usual gravel cleaner. For slow picking it up, using minimum water, the thinnest tubing could be used (flexible tuning attached to the rigid clear acrylic tubing, if this is available to you if local fish stores). Move the hose end close to the poo and it will be sucked out the tank after siphon started.

You have to remove poo first, then remove the rest of water, planned for this water change, and add new water. This is a normal procedure for each water change. If you do search for gravel vacuum, you will see a lot of youtube videos about how to clean fish tank.

The last resort is to remove inhabitants in another container for the time of cleaning, empty tank, clean it thoroughly, and fill it with water again. Acclimate fish to new water for slowly adding new water to the container with fish. After water there becomes almost the same as in new water, it's safe to move fish back in the tank.

Plants for tanks without substrate: mosses (java moss, Christmas moss, weeping moss, flame moss), liverworts (round pellia, subwassertang, see Marks Shrimp Tank how tank with it looks like), java ferns, anubias, bucephalandra. The last three have roots, but they have to be glued to something (wood, rock), not buried.

Mosses could be used for moss walls, moss carpets (don't do this if there is a problem with poo), mss trees and logs. See this and this.

Sounds like you have pretty much everything covered!

As far as water changes go, you're going to need a dedicated fish bucket or two (I use two HDPE 2 gallon buckets from Walmart) and a siphon or a gravel vacuum. I use this gravel vac in my 10 gallon tanks and it works just fine.

Here's a good video on how to use a gravel vacuum.

Out of curiosity, are you planning on using ammonia or fish food to cycle your tank?

Here's what you'll need:

• 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.
  
  
• Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.
  
  
• Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.
  
  
• Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.
  
  
• Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.
  
  
• Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.
  
  
• Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.
  
  
• Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.
  
  
• Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.
  
  
• Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.

I have them. They're pretty much useless. Just spend a little more and get the finnex sting ray. http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

looks fine to me. i tend to move towards less species in higher numbers as i think it's a better display, but there's nothing wrong with your stocking. only a few things i'll say on it; first, make sure you use a sand substrate, kuhli loaches like to burrow and dig, meaning they can hurt themselves if you use sharper material. second, i might advise against the dwarf gourami as a centerpiece fish, they are poorly bred and prone to disease. many people have had success with them, but there's always a chance that it'll get hole-in-head or something else out of your control. perhaps the pearl gourami instead? it's larger, but is much healthier and in my opinion prettier.

> filter

use Aqadvisor's filter tool, it's fairly accurate and can be used as a standard/minimum

> lighting

i'm not sure how well you'll grow plants with the one you linked. the one i would suggest is the Planted+ 24/7. it's about twice as expensive from the manufacturer as the one you linked, but it's really the best light available that fits all of your requirements. i'd suggest looking on craigslist or ebay for anything with "finnex" in it. i got a 24/7 and the Ray 2 for a significant discount on craigslist, people are selling these things pretty regularly for much less than what they cost. you might even end up getting one for the same price as the one you listed, as people selling aquariums will often part them out if you ask, and the one i linked is fairly popular.

> a beginners carpeting plant; one that doesn't require a super amount of light, one that's pretty hardy, and one that carpets quickly.

unfortunately no such thing exists. the reason carpets require so much light is because they're at the bottom of the tank, and when the light reaches it it's mostly diffused. you'd likely be able to grow a carpet with the Finnex at a slow/medium pace, but if you opt for a more low-tech route, i'd suggest Cryptocoryne Parva. it's a little bit of a stretch to call this a "carpet plant", but it does the job. like any other crypt, this grows slowly but will do fine in low/medium light, similar to java fern. it will take awhile, but you'll eventually have most of your ground covered with crypt if you go this route

> fish food

i use New Life Spectrum and frozen foods, and Hikari is also of very high quality. variety is the best policy, read up on the dietary needs of your fish and feed them accordingly. it's not a good idea to feed your fish solely with live, frozen, or dried foods. the optimal diet will probably look something like a regular feeding of high quality dried pellets with occasional live foods (like brine shrimp or something) and veggies, if the fish eats them.

to go back to the stocking for a second, if it were my tank, i would stock it more like this, but it is very important to note that it's not my tank and you may stock it as you like. i also gravitate towards tanks with specimens from a specific region, in this case southeast asia

EDIT: i forgot to address this,

> I wanted to make sure none of the fish in my potential stocking have a tendency to jump out of the water

all fish have the tendency to jump out of the water, but especially gourami and danio. using a top is the way to go

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=coral+light+led&qid=1558878533&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Best quality light for the money you will be able to find with good reviews. Just do some research online before you buy coral it will go along ways, we all make mistakes but it’s if we correct them that matters. Look into 52 weeks of reefing on YouTube and good luck sir

https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Asta-20-Dimmable-Freshwater/dp/B07236CXBQ

Thanks very much! It's this one: Lominie LED Aquarium Light, Asta 20 Nano Dimmable Planted Tank Lights 6500K with Gooseneck for Plant Freshwater Aquarium Fish Tank Refugium (Planted Version) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rKGGDb5TDV8NK

Do you know what kind of cichlids and catfish you have? There aren't many that are appropriate for a 15 gallon tank as they will grow too large.

An aquaclear 30 would work well for the tank and it's not too expensive. You can use play sand as a substrate, but you have to rinse it really well before you put it in the tank. You can get it from home improvement stores or Walmart for cheap. Good plants would be any low light, hardy plants like anubias, water wisteria, java ferns, anacharis, etc. and they can be bought from petsmart, petco, any other local fish stores, or online.

When you're renovating the tank you can keep them in a large bucket with a bubbler.

Thank you very much! I picked up these from the Petsmart near me. I live in a smallish city, so I only have petsmart, petco, and the internet to choose from.

I know these have copper in them and that's not good for shrimp, but I already had the tabs in the tank when I got the shrimp. I'm wondering if the copper content is so low that it isn't too detrimental to them, because they don't see to be bothered by it so far. Fingers crossed.

I had a bad bout of cyanobacteria earlier last year. I did a bunch of research and nothing will eat them.
I did use chemicals to get rid of it.
Specifically this. It worked much better than I thought. It killed all of it without harming my fish.

I use this system and seems to work very well for my purposes for the price.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ro%2Bbuddie&qid=1556424308&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1

Highly recommend this one. I have 3 of them and they are excellent heaters, I've use them for both 5.5g and 10g tanks.

I have a double tail betta that was never meant to make it, but he has lived an awesome life. Bought him from Petco for 50 cents and they marked him "cosmetically defective." He was only 1/3" long. Now he's almost 1 inch. His spine is a mess and he can't actually be in a real tank because filters throw him around too much. I set up a Marina hang-on breeding box so he gets to use the entire 20 gallon as his sump. He has substrate, plants, decorations, and a floating tube that he sleeps in. His life rules.

Good luck to your guppy, man.

I really really like this little bitty HOB for sub 5gal tanks.

I always swap out the stock filter cartridge with just a chunk of aquarium sponge and some biomedia. It's quiet, adjustable flow, and has a REALLY tiny footprint inside the tank. I own that same tank, and it fits fine in the precut out spot on the lid too.

the stock light isn't going to do much for your plants, but if its close enoug your bonsai light might be OK, you'd just kinda have to try it out.

Its a decent looking little tank, fine for a shrimp tank or betta.

For a 5 gal, my take would be this: https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Asta-20-Dimmable-Freshwater/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518825530&sr=8-4&keywords=aquarium+plant+led

Cheap, sleek, and dimmable.

I put this puppy over the top of it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nF5EAb9BYQ8BE

Way too much light turned all the way up but it's dimmable. No Co2 but I'm putting in about a mL of glutaraldehyde (flourish Excel) every other day or so. I'm sure the algae will explode any time now though!

You have bare bottom. That's easier than having a substrate. Use a turkey baster or one of those small siphon. Aqueon Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IqYPAbFJZ4MEW. Like this one.

I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2

This lets you easily segregate an aggressive and/or beat up fish while still benefiting from the established bacteria of the mature aquarium. You just need a small air pump to get the water flowing into the box.

I prefer this to trying to add a divider into the tank because it's usually pretty disruptive to the aquascape to try and put a divider into the main tank.

I use this as one so I'd think an old filter would work too!

Waaaaaaaaaay to many of mine do. I used to have sand loaches that ate most of them for population control but my heater failed last month and they didn't make it. Now it's entirely up to my betta and unlike previous ones, he's not much of a fry eater.

Platy fry are different than guppy fry though. My guppy fry hide for the first day or so and then swim around in the open just like the adults. Platies tend to stick at the bottom of the tank and hide so you could have a good number of them and just not be able to see them. My platy fry that are nearing 3wks old are just barely starting to swim out in the open.

I would not raise that fry in a separate container. There is no filtration and no heater, an ammonia spike is highly likely with the decomposing food and the temp will not remain stable. If you want to separate your fry I recommend this HOB breeder box All you'll need is a cheap air pump and some basic air tubing to make it work. I run 3 on my 40gal, mostly for plants nowadays, but it works very well for raising fry as it's constantly cycling tank water through it, so it remains filtered and heated.

If you do start saving the fry, make sure you have plans for what to do with them, be it selling them to a LFS or getting bigger/more tanks.

edit Typos and clarity.

Is there any way you can put in a colored divider so they can't see each other? She can definitely become egg bound and die in the presence of a male. If you just need a temporary solution to let her heal, try a breeder box inside the sorority tank.

It depends on you personal preferences;

• sponge filters (like this one powered by an airpump.
  
  
• HOB filters like this one
  
  
• or and internal filters with a spray bar (I use this one, with a different sponge).
  
  I really like sponge filters and internal filters since they fit in nearly every tank. Sponge filters are cheap and really gentle, but they do make a bit of noise. Internal filters have more flow, but are (in my experience) very silent. You can easily baffle them by placing some sponge over the spray bar.

Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.

For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html

A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478978662&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge+filter

An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1478978931&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=10+g+heater&psc=1

That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.

I use this in my ten gallon and a supplemental filtration in my 40. The sponges are great, just tug them off and rinse them out without disturbing anything else. A pump and airline is all you should need.

> Please list ALL the basic equipment for pressurized CO2?

• Cylinder
  
• Regulator
  
• Solenoid Valve - can be bought separately or as a unit with the reg.
  
• Check Valve
  
• Bubble Counter
  
• Diffuser
  
• CO2 resistant tubing
  
• Timer plug
  
  I use a CO2 fire extinguisher rather than a normal cylinder, but it's essentially the same.
  
  Only real downside is the ongoing cost. Other thing to think about are balancing CO2 levels when the lights go off, but that's easy enough to accomplish with the timer plug.
  
  Cost for me was about £100 all in, but I got lucky with some cheap CO2..

Unless space is an issue, I would suggest getting this regulator with a 5# bottle. For a 40 gal it will save you time and money on refills. Its the same brand and price, only the bottle will cost a little more up front. You can usually get a used one off craigslist for cheap. As far as using a powerhead instead of plumbing through cannister filter plumbing, I believe it goes like this. Vinyl tubing is attached from outlet of powerhead, that runs up and out of the tank onto your reactor or diffuser, then back into your tank thru an outlet/lily pipe etc...Co2 line runs from regulator/bubble counter and into your reactor/diffuser.

Marina fluval 25watt heater, adjustable, submersible and only 11$

Oh sure, they'll live miserably in their tiny bowl for about 2yrs. That's about how long it takes for them to die from cold + poor water quality. Thing is bettas can live for 5 to 8 years in the proper conditions.

1.5gal is actually fine if you have a heater and do a 100% water change every other day.

If you can't do anything else right now, do frequent water changes. Even if it's just 100% twice a week. And obviously use conditioner too.

2.5gal tank with lid: $15

Water conditioner: $10

25watt adjustable heater: $20

Coffee mug for a cave, and some uber cheap play sand & fake plants from a craft store. DONE. Merry christmas.

IF THERE IS 1 THING YOU SHOULD GET: A heater. Please just get an adjustable water heater.

I've been using one of these for my betta tank which is 2.5g and it's been fine for the past 6 months. I wouldn't say it's the best since it doesn't have any indication of the temperature you're changing it to, but if you take the time to monitor the temperature as you change it, it should be fine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AFELT92/ref=mp_s_a_1_34?qid=1419625323&sr=8-34&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I would recommend this ,Its a bit more than $10 but honestly its cheap in terms of nice filters. I would recommend taking out the cartridge and adding your own biomedia. Its very cheap at pet stores, like $2-3 and then get a little bag to put it in which will be 99¢ or less.

For the far side, a few options:

1. tiny power filter https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385633&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+blue+professional+filter (lfs guy has these on his mini shrimp tanks)
   
   
2. sponge filter: https://www.amazon.com/Bacto-surge-Foam-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385683&sr=8-2&keywords=sponge+filter
   
   
3. another sponge filter option: https://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385683&sr=8-8&keywords=sponge+filter
   
   
4. the wildcard (interesting product, no experience with it) https://www.amazon.com/Hydrodynamic-Perfecto-Marineland-Aquarium-Filtration/dp/B01BI02JMC/ref=lp_13691185011_1_2?srs=13691185011&ie=UTF8&qid=1467385743&sr=8-2
   
   
   ---
   
   for the middle one: https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Stone-Sponge-Filter/dp/B008FLWY5U/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385522&sr=8-29&keywords=sponge+filter+jardin
   
   should be more than enough, get the 99c control valves or a 'hub' to dial in the airflow to each. (cheapest in box stores or walmart)

Does the windowsill not overheat the jar? If you plan on adding the Betta, I'd worry about heat fluctuation in the jar without a heater and being near a window. Also, I'd look into a filter, I used this one for a 1 gallon Jar.

Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think this is something I can actually help with. Yay.

I got the Top Fin 5.5 gallon setup. It came with a 10 gallon filter. This was WAY too much for my betta. I looked into baffles, and compared the prices. I ended up getting this filter as it's only $15 for a non-ugly setup. It has adjustable flow. I set it to the minimum and now my betta is super happy.

As far as the heater goes, does it have adjustable temperature? I got the National Geographic 80 degree one. We keep our apartment at 72 degrees, and his tank stays around 78 degrees.

The lighting goes... I asked previously and I didn't get any responses. I try to keep the window open so the plants can get some natural light. It's been about a month and no plants are dead/dying but time will tell.

I have two Finnex Stingray Clips to sell. I don't know how it would work as a replacement for the Edge lighting, but one would get you to low lighting on a standard 10G and two should be medium to medium-high together on the 10G.

What sort of wood are you looking for?

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mopani-Driftwood-Small-9-8/dp/B001URR3CA/

and light

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC/

Finnex Clip Light

Hm you want to keep it low light? Try a Finnex Stingray clip light
or I have this and I like it grows the buce and moss pretty well. Up Aqua 3C Series

Do you want to upgrade up to a better light? I like the upaqua pro z series led I know this light is longer than your tank. But with some google you can find the correct size. I think I have a 12 inch z series on my 10g.

Are the lights built into the tank cover or are they separate pieces? And why do you want to go to an LED? Aesthetics? Plants?

IF you found a screw-in type bulb as /u/orangeisthebestcolor found, you're going to be stuck with one light, one intensity, one color, on or off. There's no moonlight or sunset with a light like that, only high noon and pitch black midnight.

For the features you are wanting, a light like the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 is what would work best. It's not inexpensive, but it does a pretty ok job of providing a 24 hour light cycle. You can search for a glass top to replace the hood that you're removing, they're really inexpensive - I think I paid around $50 for my 24"x48" glass tops.

Awesome. Thanks for such a comprehensive response. I like the idea of the 6500k bulbs from Amazon, but do you think it is worth spending a bit more and getting something automated like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMX1C/?tag=aqualedlight-20

I think you'll probably want 2 of these. I'm not confident 1 would be strong enough for hair grass.

Also, you'll be wanting some pressurized co2 to get nice healthy compact growth at a speed that will cover the substrate in a few months.

You're looking at spending another few hundred dollars before you can achieve what you want.


I suggest you head over to /r/plantedtank and ask them for a bit more input. I've never really had much success with hairgrass.


In terms of achieving the aquascape you've linked, I'd suggest you watch a few of Amano's videos on youtube. Take note of how, and how many rocks he uses.

I am currently using the Fluval 45 gram CO2 cartridges. It is a lot of work to manually adjust the CO2 regulator every day. I don't really recommend it.

Here is a link to my light: https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Asta-20-Dimmable-Freshwater/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=K9MI0MA1VWCI&keywords=lominie+led+aquarium+light&qid=1562990688&s=gateway&sprefix=lominie+%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-3

​

Here is the link to the diffuser: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MLT716/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This light gets really hot so try to be careful if you are doing water changes if the light has been on for a while.

What are your goals? Assuming some corals since you're on reeftank.

I'd recommend this light for a budget light and when you can get a second one to help with spread.

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524555372&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=hipargeo

Here let me price out a decent tank for you.

10 dollars for a 10 gallon tank, dollar per gallon sale at petco

20 dollars for a heater, This one will work with a 10 gallon

10 dollars for sand It's only 5 pounds though so you may need two

30 dollars on a filter, This is on the expensive side, there are much cheaper you could do.

45 for a light. This is a plant light, it can grow plants, you can go cheaper if you don't want to grow plants

After that your only cost is your pets. Aquatics is a expensive hobby but with this set up you could easily do a betta. If you want to skip the heater you could do some shrimp or some other subtropical fish. Filter can be downsized too, I personally like to go with a stronger filter. Light could also be fairly cheap, it's a light to see your animals if you don't wish to use it to grow plants. That's my go to when setting up a new tank.

I have both. Go with the 20 gallon long in my opinion. It offers much for flexibility in aquascaping and providing interesting habitat for your fish.

On my 20 gallon long I run 2 Aquaclear 30s and a small sponge filter, all spread across the back of the tank.

As Fliz said, fish really like the horizontal swimming space. My bettas and other fish seem to get along just fine in the 20 gallon tall as well but if I had to choose between the two of them I would opt for the long.

I'd be curious to know what this sub thinks of this filter. Been contemplating it for my 10g betta tank.

This is my first jarrarium, so I followed what best practices I could find through Reddit as well as the recommended Walstad PDF. Since this is my first time, I figured it was best to not analyze every single detail and just get a jar going. Best to learn from experience!

The night before I soaked the potting mix in water and attempted to clear as many of the twigs and sticks as possible. It was a bit difficult since I didn't have a hose, but it still worked. I let that mixture sit overnight. To start the jarrarium, I placed roughly 1 1/2 inches of soil lightly patted at the bottom of the jar with 2 root tabs to hopefully give the plants a good start to the tank. I'm unsure whether or not the root tabs were absolutely necessary, so I'd like to hear any thoughts on this and if others have done it or not. Hopefully this soil was close enough to the recommended Walstad soil;however, I was unable to find any locally. Once the dirt was placed, I set the zebra rock in the tank and then began the planting process.


In regards to the plants, I wasn't complete sure what selection of plants I wanted so I went with a mix of background, mid-ground, and foreground plants. I knew I really wanted to go with Dwarf Hair grass, so the others were just plants I had seen before. I started the planting process by placing the Vals in the back of the jar, Anubias on the right, Dwarf lily on the middle-left, and Dwarf Hair grass on the front-left of the jar. Placement seems off right now and the jar seems a bit bare. I'll let the tank cycle before considering whether a rearrangement is in order or if other plants need to be added. I'm definitely interested in adding a floating plant, but I'll need to do research before moving forward. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Once the plants were in the dirt, I poured roughly 1 inch of gravel in the back, and 1 inch of sand in the front. Water was treated with SafeStart and Aquasafe before pouring it into the jar. The pictures in this post were taken roughly an hour after I poured the water, which allowed the sediment to settle. There is still dirt floating on top of the water so I'll have to do a few small (10%?) water changes in the next coming days.




Plants:



All plants were ordered through Planted Aquariums Central

Nymphaea stellata (Dwarf Lily Plant)

Eleocharis parvula (Dwarf Hair Grass)

Vallisneris spiralis

Anubias coffeefolia


Rock:


Zebra Rock from Petco


Hardware:


2 gallon Anchor Hocking Jar

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Hocking-2-Gallon-Heritage-Hill/dp/B000KKI7GY

Natures care organic potting mix

https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Gro-71678127-currently-Northeastern-Midwestern/dp/B00FVBQET4

Lamp

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Generic-LA24118V-Get-it-Together-Adjustable-Task-Lamp-Rich-Black/16533259

Bulb (9W 5000K 800 Lumens LED Bulb)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Equivalent-Daylight-Definition-Dimmable/dp/B01MAXUKMF

Petco Aquarium Sand and Gravel

Seachem Flourish Root Tabs

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG

Definitely! I don't do co2. I'm pretty low tech. Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count

These babies are what you want. They have done wonders for two of my sand/gravel substrate tanks. All stem plants are bright red or deep green and growing surprisingly quickly. I also dose flourish excel every other day.

Sand should be fine - you'd just need to get root tabs to place directly below the plants, since most of them are root feeders. You can either buy commercial root tabs like the ones linked, or make DIY Clay Root Tabs

Either way, you'll need to add some sort of root tab to your substrate for the plants. Lots of "low-tech" planted tanks use normal sand, so you'll be okay with that substrate.

the other option is this stuff I’ve never used it, but I have used a similar product for red cyno in a reef tank.

The last I had BG cyno was when I was at the end of cycling my planted community 30g. I definitely had nitrates(I’m not saying low nitrates don’t cause it, but they were for me higher then 20ppm), but I had no fish yet and went with Erythromycin. It didn’t kill the cycle and it killed the cyno. It hasn’t comeback, but I’ve definitely had “normal” algae since then.

Part of me thinks it can just be a phase a cycling tank goes though like diatoms. You’ve definitely done your research., and you know your tank better then an internet stranger. If it starts effecting the plants, I personally would want to kill it with either option and then with nutrients make sure it doesn’t return.

If it traps bubbles it's cyanobacteria. In freshwater tanks it's more commonly known as blue green aglae.

This product will get rid of it fast:

https://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Green-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B000QSK31M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QSK31M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

$60 RO/DI

I prefer to have a devoted tap for RO, rather than hooking it up to a pre-existing faucet. For this installation method, I tap a cold water line with a saddle valve. The linked kit provides plenty of tubing to run to the installation site. I mounted the RO/DI inside my bathroom sink cabinet. This allows me to fill my sprayer in the bathtub, so I don't have to worry about it flooding if I lose track of it. Doesn't hurt to install a backflush (consider that picture a 'blueprint'). THIS kit has the two 'Y's and 2 ball valves you'd need. One ball valve to control flow into the RO/DI (effectively your ON/OFF switch); 2 'Y's and a ball valve to plumb a backflush in at your flow restrictor.

$81 for the RO/DI and associated plumbing to build a devoted fill station. A single light costs more than that. Your water bill will go up, but you don't have to break the bank to have RO/DI water on tap in your home. It's easy. It's cheap. It has a host of benefits. I don't see why more people don't do it.

I've got the 'ON/OFF' ball valve right above my bathroom sink. When I need to make water, I run my waste line down the bathtub drain, put the clean line into my sprayer, and open the ball valve. Nice and simple. No hassles.

Edit: If you don't already have them, you'll want a drill and ~1/2" drill bit to run holes in your wall/bathroom cabinet for your water lines. Maybe brings you over $100, if you don't already have those tools.

https://www.amazon.ca/Aquatic-Reverse-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ro+buddy&qid=1568604855&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I guess I lied, I paid $106 Canadian. I bought it on sale, which it currently appears to be listed at. Works great but produces tons of waste water, I would guess the numbers are something gross like 4L waste for 1L R/O.

Yes, there are ~$50 systems that just connect to your sink while you use it, then you disconnect it and put it away when done. That 30 gallons / day is a speed btw. So it will only make ~1 gallon an hour.

I use one I bought from my LFS for about $75 that does 100 gallons per day, or 4 gallons an hour.

I believe the RO buddie is the one that gets recommended here.

(I’m no expert but) I’m pretty sure bettas almost always love bigger spaces as long as they have plenty of clutter to hide in. I’d recommend getting some fake silk plants to provide some more hiding areas. Beware of ordering silk plants from amazon though, they’re usually not made of silk and/or aren’t as pictured. I love and definitely recommend the silk plants from Petco! They’re usually between $4 and $6 each or you could get a 3-pack for $10. :)



You could also consider getting them a floating betta log or some kind of cave-like thing that isn’t see-through to hide in. Just make sure any rough edges are filed down so this little guy doesn’t hurt himself further.



As for the potential fin-biting: if your current treatment doesn’t work, do NOT add aquarium salt directly into the tank. While it is generally true that aquarium salt helps to heal fins, it is best to set up a separate tank with aquarium salt that you can put your buddy in for a few minutes (will have to re-set it up every time). This is because the aquarium salt can (and usually will) disrupt your biofilter! The stuff I use and has worked wonders for my boys is Seachem’s StessGuard . It’s safe to add directly into your tank and it’s okay for use with pretty much any fish, plants, salt/freshwater, you name it.



Edit: spelling

Mine loves his. I just got him the smallest one - this one.

Mine loves this

One thing you can get that your betta will love you for is this. I have a 10 gallon tank that I use for rooting houseplants that I have made trimmings of, and I have a betta and a golden mystery snail that live in it. Gilbert (that's the betta) loved twining into the roots of the plants once they started rooting out, but when I would take the plants out to pot and start new trimming, his resting spots hear the top of the water disappeared. I put three of these around the tank, and he spends more time on them than anywhere else. To get them used to the hammock, put their food in the water directly over the leaf so they have to almost rest on it to eat. I keep mine about an inch to an inch and a half under the water surface, and he LOVES them.

Edit for: I could put some small community fish in there, but Gilbert is way too possessive of his tank for even the most drab small fish to enter it. He gets pissed at me for walking by it on my way to feed him, and even though there are multiple hiding spots in the tank for him to claim as his own, he chased the 2 danio fish I tried to house with him until I thought he or the danio fish would keel over from exhaustion. Sometimes betta fish are just happier being by themselves.

I got mine on amazon! Here's the link.

He's a little slow at using it. He kind of just uses the suction cup and not the leaf haha.

Here ya go! :)

Had someone ask for an inventory list and thought I'd post it up here for visibility.

Coralife Biocube 14 - $199

Lighting System - $141

• 2x Ecoxotic Panorama Pro 16w 8000k LED modules
  
• Two-Way DC Splitter
  
• 60w 24v AC-DC power supply
  
• Current USA Single Channel Ramp Timer
  
  Filtration System - $122
  
  
• EHEIM Jager 50w Heater
  
• InTank BioCube 14 Media Basket
  
• Poly Filter Floss
  
• Seachem Purigen
  
• Seachem Matrix
  
• Seachem Filter Media Bag
  
• Hydor Flo Rotating Water Deflector
  
  Arline System - $32
  
  
• Tetra 77853 Whisper Air Pump
  
• Topfin Two-Way Metal Gang Valve
  
• Lee's Sleek Airline Tubing
  
• Jardin Suction Cup Clips
  
  Decor - $140
  
  
• Penn Plax Real-Scapes 20x12
  
• Marineland Silicone
  
• CaribSea Eco-Complete 20 lbs Black
  
• Driftwood
  
• Rocks
  
  Flora - $114
  
  
• Chilensis (Sagittaria platyphylla)
  
• Cardinal Plant (Lobelia cardinalis)
  
• Dwarf Pennywort (Hydrocotyle sibthorpiodes)
  
• Narrow Leaf Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus)
  
• Kleiner Bar Sword (Echinodorus barthii x Echinodorus uruguayensis hybrid)
  
• HC Cuba (Hemianthis callitrichoides 'Cuba')
  
• Crypt Parva (Cryptocoryne parva)
  
• Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei)
  
• Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)
  
  Fauna - $46
  
  
• 30x Malaysian Trumpet Snails
  
• 16x neon tetras
  
• Male betta splendens
  
  Tools - $12
  
  
• API Algae Scraper Extra Long (Glass)
  
• Fluval Flora Stainless Steel Planting Tongs

The higher wattage essentially makes for a more powerful heater and steadier heat output (The number of watts kind of equals the amount of power going into the device; a bit like horsepower in a car). Like, a 10gal is recommended to get a 25watt heater, but a good amount of people in this subreddit suggested a 50watt so the heater wouldn't have to work too hard or too constantly to keep the water at a stable temp. I went ahead and decided on this:

https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY?th=1

heater, but there are others. I've noticed that while I'm cycling my tank my heater turns on for short periods of time and both my manual temperature gauges remain level. I haven't had a temp spike yet.

Granted, I know not everyone can spend a fortune on aquarium equipment, but this was one of the few items the subreddit urged me to splurge on. Smaller heaters are known for breaking - either boiling the fish alive, or stopping and allowing the fish to freeze. The neat this about the one above is that i can manually set it and it's that exact temp in the tank.

Woah, yeah cut down on the feeding haha! Maybe limit it to 3 pellets and feed him twice a day. The bloating should go down. Watch to make sure he eats everything, otherwise the leftover food will rot and dirty the tank. You can also fast your fish one day a week to prevent constipation.

I don't have a solid answer for the marimo ball, but it's probably fine with whatever sunlight/tank lighting you already have.

Keep doing water changes (at least 25-30% of the water 1-2 times a week). When you upgrade the tank you might need to buy a more powerful heater. I would suggest this adjustable one. And if you don't have one already, consider buying a thermometer when you get the new tank :)

/u/ by MiiisssterMiiissster Here's a good replacement on Amazon.

When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor

Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:

HOB Nano filter

Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.

You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.

Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.

Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.

Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.

Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.

Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.

------

Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.

AquaClear perfect size for you tank.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hagen-A600-AquaClear-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=aquaclear+20&qid=1566824496&s=gateway&sprefix=aquaclear+&sr=8-1

How did you cycle it? And what are your ammonia readings currently?

Not to mention they'll eat a lot of plants! A 20 long is a perfect sized tank for any beginner imo (planted, saltwater, or basic setup) cause there's a lot of room to work with and not hard to find a light that penetrates deep enough if you've got something to grow.

Just not for goldfish! They are very messy, eat a lot and poop a lot and overall are messy babies bumping into things. Cute, tho!

Some tips:

• Check craiglist
  
• Better yet, see if there is an aquarium club/meetup in your area. Clubs will often swap supplies and tanks as people upgrade.
  
• Learn how to do a water change
  
• Learn about the aquarium cycle
  
• Get a filter that can do your tank's size and more (if you've got a 20gal get a filter rated for 30-40gal) Personally I really enjoy AquaClear filters, they move a lot of water for their size and you can even play with the filter media a bit to exactly how you want it. And on top of that it's very quiet!
  
  And my best advice of all..RESEARCH! The world of fish keeping can be a little daunting at first, since there's so much to know before you can even take the first steps. But stick to it! It's not as difficult as it seems and honestly? You're gonna be fine as long as you keep up with water changes and practice patience.
  

I absolutely hate tetra filters. They are junk. My top fin filter actually worked pretty well but it just didn’t last very long. It sounds like yours is really good though. You can’t go wrong with adjustable flow either. If you ever need another or get a bigger tank you should check this aqua clear filter out. I got it after my top fin quit working and I love it. It’s adjustable too and they have them for all different size tanks.

aquaclear 30

sponge filter

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539614035&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aquaclear+30&psc=1

That’s a link to what I got. I bought mine in store at petco though and it may have said fluval aquaclear on it, I don’t know if they work together or something.

Filters serve three main purposes: 1) The sponge filters out debris, 2) The carbon filters out chemical components like chlorine, flouride and metals, 3) Hosting nitrifying bacteria; these bateria are essential for neutralizing the ammonia that your fish's waste produces.

Here's the problem with these disposable cartridge filters: They say they need to be replaced because activated carbon only lasts for so long and eventually needs to be replaced. But if you throw the whole filter out, you're tossing away your colony of nitrifying bacteria, the ones that are taking care of the toxic ammonia in your tank.

These cartridges aren't great and are just made to make you spend more money. If you throw it out, you toss your bacteria, but if you don't, your carbon is useless - they don't have a great solution. What I recommend is an actual three stage filter - this means it has a separate sponge, bag of carbon, and bag of bio media, so that you can change the carbon and rinse the sponge without having to crash your bacteria cycle. I normally recommend AquaClear but that's pretty big for 3.5 gallons, maybe you can find something similar in an appropriate size that has all three types of filter media.

I apologize if my post came off snarky, but bettas are a very misunderstood breed. They belong in a min. 5 gallon tank. I've seen others raise in something as small as a 3 gallon tank, but it was not worth the maintenance they had to keep up on. Bettas do best in 78-80 degree water, so a heater and thermometer is mandatory. You want a filtration system, but you want to be careful with the current as something too strong will stress them out. Bettas are not the best swimmers because of the weight of their fins, so most bettas will began to bite them off to lessen the load. As others have suggested, you want to test the water, either by bringing samples to your lfs, are buying a kit, which I prefer. You will also want to cycle your tank to avoid ammonia spikes. I've added links to some helpful things including illnesses so you may be able to diagnose with a little research.

Betta illnesses

Nitrogen cycle

Betta fish care

Great filter with adjustable flow

Heater 100w



Edit : api test kit

Great for establishing a new tank

Dechlorinate, detoxify

Well, they’re root feeder plants, so you will either need a plant specific substrate, or root tabs Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dQ-ZAbXG42HWD

I personally have one with just sand substrate with root tabs and it’s doing amazing https://imgur.com/gallery/49pX9

I just have an led light that came with a shitty like starter pack aquarium thing and all my plants are doing great. Here are some plants I recommend;

Amazon sword
Anubias
Java fern
Java moss
Hornwort

These are all low light plants and only the amazon sword feeds from the roots, so all the others you could either plant them in regular substrate (gravel or sand) or attach them to something or let them float. Btw tho anubias is a great plant but it has like a kind of bar/divider thing in between the roots and the stems that’s called a rhyzome. If you plant anubias, you have to keep the rhyzome above the substrate.

Unfortunately a huge part of success in this hobby is patience, so there's going to be a bit of waiting before you can get fish in there. But it's definitely worth it!

Before you do anything, you'll need to test your tank for leaks, as someone has already mentioned. Then you'll need to decide where the tank is going in your home. Is it close enough to a faucet for water changes? Does it receive any direct sunlight from nearby windows? (This could cause algae issues later on.) You'll need a stand made specifically for an aquarium (craigslist is good for this, occasionally pet stores will have decent online sales as well). A gallon of water weighs ~8 lbs, so once your tank is full it will weigh about 500 lbs with substrate, most furniture can't handle that much weight unless it's solid wood.

It's been mentioned a few times on here, but make sure you have a great understanding of the nitrogen cycle before bringing any fish home. I've heard some pet store employees refer to "cycling" as "letting the dust settle from the gravel and the filter/heater run for a few days" but that is NOT cycling and will end up killing your fish from ammonia poisoning. As far as fish go, my only other advice would be never bring anything home without researching thoroughly (temperature, tank size requirements, full adult size, etc) Seriously Fish is a great resource for reading up on different species, it's usually my go-to.

For plants you can go as cheap/simple as pool filter sand with some root tabs or as fancy as plant-specific substrate (ada aquasoil, flourite, eco complete) with pressurized CO2. It really boils down to personal preference and how much money you want to spend. Plant species I've found especially difficult/impossible to kill are Amazon Swords, Anubias, and various Crypts. There are many more "beginner" plants, but those have all worked/looked best for me personally. Petsmart will occasionally have some really good markdowns on their tissue cultured plants (the ones in the packaging on the shelf) and I've had a lot of success with those, even when they're half-dead.

Sorry for the wall of text, I hope it was of at least a little help! This subreddit has also helped me tremendously, especially the links in the sidebar like this one. Good luck, and make sure to show us a picture once you get it up and running!

Root tabs are root fertilizing tabs/pills that are recommended when using inert substrates like sand and gravel, since those don’t have the nutrients other products, like soil or Aquasoil, have.

Plant fertilizer in tablet/tab form. Pop them near the root base into the gravel. It feeds the plant. Lasts 3-4 months before you need to pop a new one in.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480301975&sr=sr-1&keywords=flourish+tabs

Certainly. Petco and Petsmart carry them too but I’m not sure about prices. It will be fine for a couple weeks probably, but eventually it will want some food. I think maybe flourish tabs would be a good option.


Seachem Flourish Tabs Growth Supplement - Aquatic Plant Stimulant 10 ct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CJRKDb6JV9A1E

I would honestly recommend anything that would kill the existing algae in the tank and replace/add more plants that are not doing too hot.

The cyanobacteria will probably go away once the nitrogen is raised, but I would give it a kick and also use Ultralife blue green slime stain remover.

Looks to be it. I used this stuff earlier this year and it did a great job getting rid of it. My cyanobacteria bloom was very large, covering most of my substrate and driftwood with a thick green slime. If you use that stuff, you'll want to keep the lights out for about a week and do 30% to 50% water changes every couple of days so the dead cyanobacteria don't make your ammonia spike.

EDIT:
For anyone that is interested, it was decided that it was a mixture of a hell of a lot of diatoms and some cyanobacteria. The initial solution suggested was using Erythromycin but it isn't available to purchase in the UK without a prescription.
Instead I found this on amazon which had amazing reviews so I decided to give it ago. I used one treatment and within 48 hours the cyano bacteria was starting to die off, and within a week it had completely gone.
For the diatoms I purchased a group of 6 Oto's who proceeded to demolish it and are now stripping clean the substrate and any flat surface every single night.
Hope this helps anyone else having the same problem

So the tank is around 6-8 weeks old and is almost done cycling. Ammonia- 0ppm Nitrites- 0ppm Nitrates 40-80ppm. It is a high tech set up with a 7 hour photoperiod. I mimic the fertiliser dosage of the 2HR Aquarist as I was worried about overdoing it.

When the tank was around 3 weeks old I started to get hair algae in the tank, but at 5 weeks old the hair algae was overtaken by what I assumed were diatoms. I kept up weekly 50% water changes to try and help but its getting worse and worse, to the point where I've lost 4 different plants because their leaves were getting so covered by it that they died. I was originally cleaning it off of the leaves daily but it makes no difference, it is back by the following day.

In an attempt to bring my nitrates down I've added fluval clearmax to the canister, but I'm really not sure else to do.

More Photos:
https://imgur.com/qewTfJN
https://imgur.com/mjYrIP3

This is an expensive method but really works. However like others said, unless you fix the nitrate issue, BGA will keep coming back.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QSK31M/

Try the advice that bquad gave and see if it helps. I've had battles with BGA as well and I am always on the losing side for some reason. My recent battle had me go and purchase this stuff from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QSK31M/

I followed the directions on the product and made no special changes to my tank and within a week the BGA was gone. From the comments this stuff doesn't contain Erythromycin.

Reviewmeta.com can check whether or not there are suspicious reviews

https://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B000QSK31M

The adjusted rating is the same as the original rating which is somewhat promising but there are some suspicious reviews.

It'll be worth your while to get an RODI unit in the long run. You can get a simple 4 stage RODI on Amazon for like $60 as well, so you wouldn't be spending that much.

Edit: here's the Amazon listing for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fMtCDbWX9QMVW

I use this. It works great and cheap. Easy to set up. 0 TDS coming out of it.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get a cheap RO unit for $60. Totally worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zoo Med Floating Betta Log https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ITKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6IVBCbCGEMBSB

My betta loves his floating log: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Floating-Betta-Log/dp/B0027ITKBS/ref=sr_1_37?crid=30N8IK59X9W1Q&keywords=betta+hammock&qid=1570475799&sprefix=betta+%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-37

I have this one. I didn't buy it online though, I have seen them at pretty much every pet store!

Very nice! I really like how you changed the driftwood.

Once you’re ready for fish I’m sure your betta would love a floating log!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027ITKBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510788247&sr=8-2&keywords=betta+log&dpPl=1&dpID=51JUtrggGCL&ref=plSrch

Ah that's good! I think just keep an eye on him, if you're really worried, you could get him something like this http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-AZMBL20-Hammock/dp/B0027IZ6KW to sleep on. (Also, if you're happy with the baffled filter I would keep it. Otherwise you'll have to cycle the tank again) I hope I've helped and good luck :)

[Anubias] (http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/plantfinder/images/Araceae/Anubiasbarterivrnana.jpg) are the easiest ones to care for--I've had mine for years and until recently they've never had any special plant lighting. There are tons of different types but most sold in the pet stores are easy. With proper light they will grow bigger and more lush, but with regular light they will survive just fine. Tie the rhizome to a rock or even a decoration and that's literally it. The roots will work their way down eventually. If you can get some floating plants that is great for them, too (frogbit, dwarf water lettuce). Plants take in the nitrates so they look pretty, provide shelter and hiding and help keep the water clean. If you don't do that, do silk plants. They are a bit more expensive but zero maintenance. I have both types in one of my tanks and the betta likes them both but hangs out in the floating plants more.

If you see your betta laying down on a leaf (silk or live) he's probably just resting. [Betta hammocks] (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-AZMBL20-Hammock/dp/B0027IZ6KW) are great for that, too. It gives them a resting spot when they go to the surface for air. some bettas ignore them, others love them like crazy.

I have this betta leaf hammock, which apparently bettas like to sleep on! I'd love to put it in my betta's tank! It's in my Under $5 list. Thanks for the contest!

Make sure your heater is at least 20 watt. If not, try to get a more powerful one ASAP.

Otherwise, looking good! You could get a betta leaf for your betta to rest on if you wanted :)

Give him something to rest on that's closer to the surface.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Labs-Betta-Hammock/dp/B0027IZ6KW

I ordered this one tonight: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027IZ6KW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I should be out tomorrow, I'll hit petco and look for that one. Sounds nicer than this one.

Bettas are tropical and will not do well at 70F for very long. 76-82 is a good range to shoot for. ViaAqua has a decent and reliable 100W heater for around $13. Eheim Jager heaters are rock solid and super reliable for a little more than $20. I'd suggest getting a heater ASAP.

Fish in cycling will also be rough on your betta, but is manageable with frequent water changes. Is there anything else in the 10 gallon? What kind of filter do you have? Do you have a water test kit to monitor the nitrates and ammonia?

Edit: Can you move the tank to a warmer part of the house until you're able to get a heater?

People will yell at you for keeping it in a bowl and some people will even recommend they have to have 10g of water to be healthy.

A bowl is not healthy for the fish, but I've kept bettas in 2.5g tanks with no problems. The most important part is getting a filter and a heater, and not over feeding.

You want more lateral space than height, so a cubic or cylindrical tank isn't optimal. A simple 2.5g from Petco is what I use and is fine; it has the foot print of a shoe box. Bettas aren't really vertical swimmers, then are lateral swimmers; they also benefit from more surface area, which a rectangular tank gives.

I run this filter on my 2.5g and haven't had problems with it for a year. It will do better if you clean it every month.

Heaters are tricky; my best advice is to get a digital thermometer like this one and watch the temperature. My 2.5g hasn't dropped below 79 in a couple months, and I'm not running a heater. In the winter I use a heater like this one to keep the temperature steady. When you do start using a heater, you want to watch your temperature closely to make sure you aren't over heating the tank!

I use a desklamp with a Spiral CFL light bulb as lighting; but I also keep live plants. Your lighting completely depends on what you have in the tank. Keeping some plants isn't hard, but it is a balancing act that you have to get used to. You also have to do a little research about the type of plant and it's needs. If you want plants, give me a PM and I'll give you some easy plant recommendations. If you don't want plants, get a 10watt spiral CFL "Daylight" (6300K) lightbulb and put it in a desk lamp that is a couple inches above the water; or just put the tank in a window that gets some light through the day.

Food is simple; a small pinch of flake food or a little bit of freeze dried blood worms every few days is fine. Obviously live food is better, but it is also more work and more expensive.
___
TL:DR

• 2.5 Gallons is fine; buy a tank from petco for ~$10
  
• Get a small filter for $15
  
• Get a nice thermometer for $8
  
• If you temperature is too low, buy a nice heater for ~$20
  
• Get a desklamp and a 6300K (Daylight) lightbulb ~$20
  
  Here is my 2.5g now after I trimmed it and before I topped it off. It has ~20 Black Bar Endlers in it now instead of a Betta. If you want a tank with live plants like that it takes a bit of planning, but isn't too bad.
  
  I'm giving you this list because cost increases with size. A great 2.5g will cost you ~$60-100 upfront, and not much in the long run. A good 10G will cost you ~$100-200 because you will need a stronger filter, larger heater, larger tank, stronger lights. A bowl is the cheap option, and your fish will lose its color, likely lose some fins due to fin rot, and I would be surprised if it lives a year. A tank with a filter and heater will solve all those issues.

I recently started a 10g after doing a crapload of research. This is what I ended up with:

• Eheim Jager 50w heater
  
• Hydor Koralia Nano 425 powerhead
  
• PAR-38 LED bulb (dimmable) 18k color temp
  
• AquaClear 20 filter
  
• 12 lbs live rock
  
  A lot of folks I talked to said the live rock and water changes would provide sufficient filtration, but I do enjoy the extra water clarity from having carbon and purigen in the filter.

Awesome, I like your style!

I still stand by this guy for an all-in-one solution.

Cut off temp regulator nub, do test batches with 5 gallons of water until the temp is right, and keep the thing wrapped in a down coat. The test batches are because the heating curve of the temperature regulator thingy is non-linear outside of its specified range, so turning one degree up isn't the same past the regulation point.

For another layer of insulation I also keep it inside a rubbermaid container. Super cheap, very well insulated, and easy to flush with CO2 through the airlock holes.

My girlfriend and I use Eheim Jager on all of our tanks. They are nicely made, adjustable, and super reliable!

C02 Kit

Bubble Counter

Diffuser

You also need funnels to get everything into the soda bottles, a few check valves to prevent backflow. The reaction uses baking soda and citric acid, I got both from the market so thy are food grade.

What size tank is that? In my experience you have to seriously overdose iron to keep even a reddish color, I use seachem iron added to the minor elements while estimative index dosing. With that light if your tank is less =< 18" tall, you will need some carbon added. You may be able to get away will excel for a bit but long term going with an "estimative index" fert and co2 injection will be cheaper and easier.

Also, swords are heavy root feeders so you definitely need to get some root tabs for them the grow and flourish.

This is my current co2 setup that's easy to put together and only cost a few dollars every few months to fill for my 29g:

Empire Paintball 24oz CO2 Tank - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM

AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TJCPSY

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G (Note you can choose a different diffuser if you want)

AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW

Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886

From what I have heard running your CO2 line directly into a HOB filter will cause cavitation of the impeller and eventually break the filter. I have no clue how long it takes to break a filter this way. For my CO2 setup I am using a ceramic diffuser this one under the intake to my filter. I have not had a filter die on me yet or give any indication of failing but I really haven't had it running that long.

I use disposable pressurized co2 canisters right now with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Nano-CO2-Diffuser-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B0058XWDFO/

this is what you're using, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

& I already have the fluval bubble counter!

We have a lot of folks on here using the aquatek regulators and they are ok. Those come with a solenoid, so like krattalak stated, you only have tubing(which is cheap on amazon), drop checker, and ceramic diffuser(also pretty cheap). I highly recommend a check valve and use a brass fitting instead of the cheap ceramic ones that tend to warp and compress.

What i use

My setup, excuse the mess, one of the bottles is leaking.

I said some of this elsewhere but for lighting I have the finnex fugeray in 10" As well as a Marineland Penguin 100 filter. pretty basic, ya know. I have a diy CO2 system going using a fluval diffuser which is a really good diffuser. I also have a sponge wrapped around the intake of the filter to protect my invertibrates

For substrate, I just have some black diamond blasted sand. I have a piece of mopani driftwood that I searched months for! Found it in Petco, funny enough in their reptile section, though it said for aquarium use.

flora includes: Water sprite, Baby tears, Dwarf baby tears, Microsword, Duckweed, and a couple others' whose names I cant remember right now.

fauna includes: 1 oto, 6 cherry shrimp (so far!), one nerite snail, and a handful of malaysian trumpet snails. Very happy crew.

I dose with excel about once a week, and feed the shrimp part of an algea wafer every few days.

How high do you have the pressure up to?? The only time mine ever did that is when I got impatient and turned the pressure up a bit too high. I'm not an expert, but it might be time to invest in a regulator.

I use this diffuser with this regulator in both my tanks (a 55g and a 75g). I use the included bubble counter for my 75g and it works great. I've bought way more expensive diffusers and none worked as good as the one I referenced here so don't be tempted to spend more than you need to. I really do suggest a regulator, though. I think you might be having pressure issues.

I've never used any of the ones you listed, so I'm not sure (but the second one looks pretty nice) I bought this one a year or so ago & seems to work well enough: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0APPW7BZA4DKSHBM7PZD

edit: I should prolly mention I'm using the fluval 20g c02 kit with a glass diffuser, not the aquatek regulator.

I saw the solenoid was listed as "8.99" and I was like WHAT, I WILL TAKE 10.

Typo, I gotcha. $84.99. Yarr.

Setup looks okay.

Two suggestions:

1. From personal experience is instead of a diffuser, use a reactor.
   I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU00529-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B005DGJEGC - I find it disperses the gas a lot better than a diffuser. Also, it's an inline thing, so it's in the cabinet under your tank and doesn't look ugly.
   
   
2. Get actual cO2 tubing. Regular airline tubing will work, but will degrade over time from the gas. You can find it anywhere you can find normal airline tubing. It's usually black or clear.
   
   I have a 40b too, and a 10 lb tank. I have to fill it about every 6 months or so. Costs about $23 where I am, just to give you a base point.
   
   Good job, enjoy!
   
   *Edit: Oh, forgot to mention. If you go the reactor route, you'll need a bubble counter. Also, get a drop checker to ensure levels of cO2 in your tank are good.
   
   Bubble counter: https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K
   
   Drop checker: https://smile.amazon.com/Aquatic-Glass-Checker-MONITOR-sakkara/dp/B00OO2FUFK

Hey I just bought the same tank! I fit the same exact heater in the compartment next to the filter intake tube, it fit perfectly. I also used a little over half a bag of eco-complete. I just planted it a couple days ago. I bought a Nutrafin co2 kit but the ladder diffuser/bubble counter took up a whole wall so I ditched it and bought this glass diffuser and this bubble counter, they're still in the mail though so can't comment on how they work.

It looks like you're going with pressurized co2 which I sort of want to too but the replacement tanks seem expensive. Kind of wish I hadn't bought the Nutrafin and just made my own bottle DIY but the cannister is nice and so is the tubing it comes with and I'll just use the ladder diffuser on a bigger tank. There's not much room to work with and the lid seems annoying to fit things under, like tubing so I'm still working on that but overall it's a beautiful tank. Good luck!

The prices are different from when I ordered them but here's my exact setup!

Here's the co2 system

This is the bubble counter I have

Here's the diffuser I got but there's cheaper options as well

Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker

That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)

Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)

Some other good purchases:

Seachem Purigen

Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery

Yeast - for DIY CO2

Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink

Pre-filter Sponge Pack

Aqueon 06226 Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_69rJxbEM6CMGY

That should work for a one gallon. Try doing it with him in, if he tries getting sucked into the tube, yeah pull him out in a bowl for a couple minutes. If he keeps his distance he probably won't be happy if you take too long but should be alright.

Just removing water is fine. If you like you can purchase a siphon to help remove some waste from the gravel.
As for cleaning the sides, I find these very useful.

For a 3 gallon tank I would definitely do 20-30% water changes twice a week. I would not add any more fish, aside from maybe a snail. Adding any more fish would overstock your tank, causing it to get dirty faster and upping the chances of illnesses.


No. Cycling takes at least a few weeks. (read the article I posted in an earlier comment) You can keep track of where it is in the cycling process by doing daily water parameters tests. Here is a really good kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mini+gravel+vacuum&qid=1568853650&s=gateway&sr=8-2 I have 3 sizes of these, and used the mini in my 2.5gallon. It's very slow for me, but maybe what you need.

Copper Test kit

You will want to use a small siphon. And don't dig into the substrate. Hover just above it.


Copper shouldn't be an issue unless you are using ferts with lots of copper... or you overdose ferts. iirc, Seachem has trace amounts of copper, not enough to cause issues unless you use the entire bottle at once.

This. It is a breeding box and uses my air pump to lift water into the box from the tank. Its pretty minor flow it.(1/2 gallon in 5 min)

I would go bigger too. I'm jealous actually, I'm stuck in a situation where I am only allowed to have a few small tanks.

If you'd like to do a little of both, I would suggest investing in a few breeding boxes to attach to your tank. With the larger sizes, you can actually put down substrate and plants and essentially have small 1 gallon tanks attached to your tank. The brand I linked hangs on the outside, and when you run a line from an airpump to it, it circulates with the tank water. They are great for shrimp.

Looks almost exactly the same as mine which is a Marina Breeding Box

If he's kinda vibrating/spinning around then you gotta get ready for some eggs! And also some fights. Pretty much any other males that are in the same type (red Jacob deathmatches vs firefish/strawberry Cichlid happened in mine) are gonna want to go after those females too. Even if the males simply look the same, they're most likely gonna go at it. Don't know what else you stocked in there, but you might wanna get another tank to separate some of them, or to even just grow the babies in. My females fought amongst themselves too enough to stress the hell out of one to the pt where she would just sit at the top corner of the tank while she had the eggs in her mouth. You could just leave them be but keep an eye on them to see if any fins look bitten or they start acting funny, then you gotta add more hiding spots/separate the ones fighting. It'll be very easy to tell if it's getting bad by just sitting and watching them charge mouth to mouth at each other. Hope this helps haha because I was panicked when it happened to me. Currently doing well with 2 separate 55 gallon setups, one having 2 of these set up for the fry. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m7IAzbQB54RT5

That’s true, I was thinking of using one of these outfitted with a power head as a refugeium with phosban and Purigen live rock and chaeto. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0qRIBbSZ6H3S7

I can check params daily, and It’d be my first saltwater setup, I don’t mind starting out with a fowlr system if it makes a difference in this small tank

I know breeding boxes are used by some in the shrimp community, and this is basically the same idea...I'd just be worried about the water in the jar getting dirtier than the rest of the tank. The mesh will let some of the waste out, but since it's not going to be getting any real water flow in that jar it could cause a small ammonia spike in there killing any shrimplets you'd get.

If you don't want to setup a tank you could get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ which will keep the shrimp separated from the rest of the tank inhabitants, but still allows water movement between the box and the tank.

You could maybe setup a small airstone in the jar, just enough to create flow so water in the jar and the rest of the tank are being cycled in and out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QRDCP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got it to put a little rock and some chaeto algae in for a refugium for pods mainly. Not sure it is the exact same one, but looks the same. I already had a pump that is in use with my skimmer, I added a line to it and it is sufficient for both. I have a 40 breeder, and this HOB is a half gallon, so kinda small, but cheap and easy.

I really like the bactosurge sponges because they are very fine and tend to polish the water. Problem is they are meant for like 30g and are pretty big. :/. Honestly If you are doing chili rasboras and nano fish, I would get one of those dual-ones that sit on the side of the glass (This style https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/). This could easily support a 20gal tank.

Not sure if we are allowed to link to Amazon, but I have two of these in my tank and I am liking them a lot.

Never used one before but something like this might work for you.

Sponge filter

Basically runs off an air pump and the sponge collects debris. It'll need cleaning but a combo unit like this sounds about what you're after.

There's also this unit but it's designed for larger tanks.

If you want some more interesting creatures in your tank I'd suggest ghost shrimp. Add them first and then introduce the beta. If he's already established territory he'll be more likely to defend it.

If you do run into problems they cost less than 50 cents per shrimp.

The best thing about sponge filters is that they are dirt cheap! If you already have a filter for that tank and are adding it just for the extra filtration and added circulation, and if you have an airpump rated for a ~20G, this XY-2822 would work perfectly.

The first link is the just a little larger than the second, They both use an air pump. And I forgot to say I use saltyshrimp gh and kh as the remineralizer. Most tap water is fine for ghost or red cherry shrimp though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505891587&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge%2Bfilter&dpPl=1&dpID=41UvHBkfssL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505891637&sr=8-3&keywords=sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41dqWo%2BtSBL&ref=plSrch

I bought this one August 2015 and It has been working fine since then. I paired it with a Timer and a 15LB bottle.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WTXYN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think that's for welding. For oxygen and acetylene tanks. I dont believe they are the same as co2 tanks. I may be mistaken though.

Something like this would be more in your price range.

Link

I bought the same thing. I have the regulator from aquatek and it came with a bubble counter. 1 month in, and everything works fine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WTXYN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm looking for a small heater to replace a 10w I have. Are you talking about this one (https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Submersible-Heater-Aquarium-25-watt/dp/B00AFELT92)?

I have this one and it works just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFELT92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Aq4CzbBKHAY07

I just picked up this heater for a 5.5 gallon betta tank and I'm really happy with it - [Link](http://www.Marina.com/ Submersible Heater for Aquarium, Mini, 25-watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFELT92?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf). I think it's worth the extra few $ so that you can fine tune the temperature.

I'm thinking I'm gonna have to buy a heater for the 2.5g shrimp tank I'm also cycling, since the one I already had on hand is keeping it too warm. I'm probably going to go with this one.

Mini Marina/Fluval 25w heaters work well for my 3 and 5 gallon shrimp tanks. Very reliable, too.

Almost any sponge filter will do, but most prefer the type that suction onto the side of the tank like a dual sponge filter. Even better, some have compartments for biological media like the Qanvee 100A or 200A. Another great option, and the best IMHO, is a Matten filter.

No no no no no. Do not medicate with malachite green/formalin for tetras. It will kill them faster than the ich will. Just salt.

Salt to 1 tsp (teaspoon) per gallon of aquarium salt (buy it from a fish store, not table salt) and if the fish is valuable to you then you'll need to get an adjustible heater and crank it up to 86 degrees. If you can't get it to at least 85, don't even bother increasing the temperature or you'll only make the problem worse If you need something small, this is the smallest adjustable heater I've seen.

Here's a post I made a while back for another redditor that had an ich issue.

This heater has a thermostat and it's small https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AFELT92/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497820886&sr=8-1&keywords=marina+25+watt+heater

I personally like the adjustable heaters. I have this one in my 2.5g hospital tank and this one in my 5.5g main tank.

How long have you had her? Sometimes it takes new fish a while to figure out the whole feeding thing. Just gently tap on the glass to get her attention and make sure she sees you putting the food in.

For a filter, I really like my Aqueon internal filter. Just get rid of the cartridge and replace with the media of your choice and there you go. Adjustable spray makes it nice, I stick it in a corner and set it a little against the wall and it makes a fun circle current for mine to play in that isn't super strong.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I

I got a 3.5 gallon tank for my daughter's Betta. I have been dealing with fin rot, but it looks like he's getting better. I am trying to find a better filter than the one I have now. I'm using the one that came with the top fin aquascene tank. I don't think he like it because it disturbs the water too much. I was looking into the quietflow at10. I think this will work great for my tank. The one question I had about it is the filter.
First off they are expensive and it has carbon filled in it. I have seen people say you can fill it with your own media to create your own filter. I have seen sponges and ceramic rings? I just wondering what I should look for and how to go about it. I accidentally killed my cycle anyways so don't worry about that. That happened before I even knew what a cycle was. I want to start fresh and have something I know my fish will like and will help create and sustain my cycle.

Here is the desktop version of your link

I have a few of these and the water temp on the other side of the tank is usually around 75-76 F. The trick with these presets is to get a little water flow going across it to evenly heat the water. In 2 of the tanks with these heaters I have an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter
[https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Quietflow-Internal-Filter-Gallon/dp/B00AWV4R8I](this one) and I have the outflow pointed right at the heater.

I like the Aqueon Pro heaters or Ehiem Jager heaters better honestly. They cost a bit more, but the quality is better and they're adjustable. Once they're calibrated they sit right at the set temperature. I have the Aqueon Pros in my 55g show tank and two of my split 10s, and the Ehiem Jager in the 10g my Sammy gets to himself.

TBH I'm not sure if there's any filter that's not crap that would only cost $10 (not counting sponge filters because they need a pump which costs more than the sponge itself).

Whatever you get, I'd reccomend something with a low and/or adjustable flow when it comes to bettas. This is what I have in my 5.5g.

In my 5.5 gallon I use an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter labeled for 10 gallon tanks, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHzVCbH2SBR7A

I removed their plastic bio comb thing and filled that space with ceramic rings. I also crammed some filter sponge between their cartridge and the intake as sort of a intake guard. I've been using the same cartridge for over a year and I just clean it when I clean the tank. Obviously the activated carbon is long since spent, but I roll with it since I keep my tank clean in other ways.

The output is adjustable but fairly strong even at lower settings, so I would not recommend for a betta tank.

3/12/15 Update!

http://imgur.com/a82EFp5

I got a brand new filter, the aqueon quietflow internal filter

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1426184823&sr=1&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10

Put it in my tank, did a 50% water change, and waited about half an hour and my tank is absolutely crystal clear! I'm so happy I decided to take your advice and get a filter. I'm sure there will be tough days ahead, but for now I'm celebrating a small victory.

The shrimp are being mischievous as usual, and my betta is currently exploring his new/old tank. (I moved some stuff around).

My only real complaint right now is the plants don't really hide the stuff as much as I had hoped, but I can always move the stuff around later on.

Oh, I also added a tiny bit (Half a cap) of Bacteria.

Anything else I should do in the meantime?

Thanks for any and all help!

Here is the mobile version of your link

I use this one on my nano tank and it works great. Mine is only probably 6 inches deep and this is definitely small enough. I just put a little piece of sponge on the intake so it doesn't suck up baby shrimp.

I thought the little Deep Blue Nano is a little underpowered for you, but maybe not; it's rated for up to 5.5 gallons and only does 16 gallons per hour, so that's not much. If you stock carnivores, that's a higher bioload, I'd add . I do however in both of my 5.5 gallons where I have that filter, have a sponge filter.

This one is dead silent and you can control the flow rate for a betta. Even full speed is okay for a betta fish

Hi there! You've probably already seen the info sheet stickied here, but also this page about the nitrogen cycle was super-helpful for me, personally. A filter is good, but it's much better if you get your tank's cycle all set up and running properly. Right now, the filter is only going to pull out debris mechanically from the water; the nitrogen cycle will help biologically remove toxins from your water column, mainly ammonia from waste and such, that can hurt Finley's quality of life.

I don't have experience with your specific filter, although as a general rule, filters included with tanks aren't always ideal... for a 3.5gal, filters like this one are pretty well-reviewed. I have used it myself on a 5.5gal, although you might want to baffle it a bit so the flow doesn't blow Finley around the tank; a sponge can be used here, or something fancier.

You'll probably want to complete a fish-in cycle to give Finley the best possible environment. As far as filter material (you can see it on the image in that filter I linked), you'll want both mechanical and biological filter media (where you beneficial bacteria colony will live). Some people also use chemical filtration, like carbon inserts, but mechanical/biological is fine for a nano tank.

Fish-in cycling is not preferable, but totally doable. I've done it, you just have to really stay on top of water changes/parameters to make sure Finley's home doesn't get too toxic for him while you're starting your cycle. I swear by Tetra SafeStart+, never had a problem kick-starting a cycle with it, but not everyone has good experiences with "bottled bacteria." Do you have a water-testing kit? This one is the most accurate/popular, I think.

I hope this helps! I was very confused in the beginning, myself, and slowly learned how everything worked with help from this sub. Let us know what else you need help with! :)

I'm a little late but I'm a huge fan of this filter. It's tiny yet powerful with a controllable flow. I have mine on a custom tank that's really small(maybe 2 gallons, more like 1.5) and the water is crystal clear, though I did add my own media.

Finnex StingRAY LED Clip Light for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH10HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kIAGyb1VZFDRC

That would work, you won't need a plant specifically for planted tanks but I wouldn't get something crazy cheap either.

I'd get a finnex clip on or the lower light one. Trying to carpet without co2 or high light is a bit a bollock, you won't really get the lawn effect you are looking for in low tech. You'll be able to keep the hair grass alive, but not the monte carlo

[This one] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LIL7YPE&pd_rd_r=25ce5c9e-e267-11e8-8349-9126162516c7&pd_rd_w=hldgy&pd_rd_wg=Jz5r5&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=57b46099-d750-4d74-83ee-63ad64b310a4&pf_rd_r=JJ92WT8SGYJ1YY6N57MC&pf_rd_s=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JJ92WT8SGYJ1YY6N57MC) if you are really wanting to get into plants if not [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC) will do fine.

The type/wattage of the light depends entirely on what you plan on using the tank for. If it's just a couple fish and low light plants, a simple inexpensive clip on from amazon would work fine.

Something like this would be fine.

I used the finnex stingray clip on light and the Azoo palm filter, if you're interested.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

This will be the perfect match for low-light plants.

I personally have this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIL7YPE

It worked very well for my 5g Fluval Chi with Java moss, dwarf hairgrass, micro swords, hornwort, and bladderwort.

I'm currently using it on a 20g long and the growth from my micro swords, anubias nana, Java moss, Java ferns, and wild bacopa is excellent. I keep it about 6" from the surface of the water. Some brown diatoms have formed directly below it on a piece of dead coral, but that's probably from a combination of recently cycling and a long photoperiod.


As long as you have a relatively short photoperiod or break up the photoperiod to "confuse" the algae, you should be fine. Flourish Excel definitely helps, as does hornwort if you don't mind it floating around.

Get the biggest tank you can. This filter: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9821 is what you want. Same as the one you linked but foster and smith have it for 7 bucks. Dont get a "dumb" heater like you linked, get an auto t stat filter, otherwise youll have trouble keeping a steady temp. Shrimp dont do well with temp swings. I have this small light: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LMH10HC?pc_redir=1413694649&robot_redir=1 and my plants grow just fine in a low tech setup.

I'm not a fan of the gravel either but I used what I had on hand when I first set up the tank to cycle, would it be worth it to change it out or would that be a massive pain in the ass?

As for another centerpiece plant what would you recommend? Right now I'm just using a clip on desk lamp for light with a 4100k cfl in there I have this light coming in the mail.

If you're wanting to go LED, Finnex and Current USA have some reasonably priced options for planted tanks.

Finnex Planted+ 24/7

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMX1C/ref=pd_lpo_199_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GM7WVDS69NC1XTGSX537

Current USA Satellite LED+

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTF9E

I've actually put my 4 Female bettas in the tank today, tomorrow I'll add my shrimp
Tank specs: 48"Long x 17"Tall x 15" Wide Anymore questions let me know.
Co2 Set up links. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330924682316?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271861946294?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MLTRR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Light
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0HMX1C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and 4 Bags of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00519832W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 on Amazon preorder.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0HMX1C/

For reference it hasn't been this cheap on Amazon.

whoops forgot to mention that. its from amazon. link below

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727V8C5Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks like it's under a different name now but it's the Asta 20 from Amazon. Kessil knockoff? Maybe. But good light for cheap.

Thanks! I planted dwarf hairgrass, pearlweed, anubias petite nana, Echinodorus Aflame, and some random moss that started growing. I have pretty thick layer of substrate (about 50mm / 2in) that is a mix of Fluval Stratum and some ADA amazonia. The tank set-up is a UNS 4.6 gallon, azoo mignon 60 HOB filter, asta 20 LED, and a paintball tank CO2 setup. I plan to add a small canister filter, but the HOB is doing alright for now.

There are several assorted shrimp in the tank, but Stuart seems to ignore them so far.

links

Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tank:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFINHJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CO2 Regulator and parts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XW16L4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009G68LTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M49QDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KPCLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0100UO72G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VEWCMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Different than the stock tank.
HIPARGERO LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W Cree Chips for Coral Reef Fish Nano Tank (New) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v.YSCbYGVBAH8

What are the tank dimensions/size? You could get one of these but you need to buy a timer for it. Stability is very important and having a timer will let you set it and forget it which will help your coral. I’ve never used one of these but depending on your tank size it might work fine. It would grow Softies and LPS but may struggle with SPS

A better option is a 165w Viparspectre AKA black box led. This light has individual timers for your blue light and white lights. I prefer this light over the other one as it can grow all kinds of corals without issues. Having individual timers also helps you turn your blues on before your whites come on.

For reference my blues come on two hours before my white lights come on. When my whites turn off my blues stay on for two more hours before turning off completely.

Personally I use this light for my softy 10g tank turned up all the way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0727V8C5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1537831505&sr=8-6&keywords=reef+light+led&dpPl=1&dpID=41mSU8tVaNL&ref=plSrch

Lominie LED Aquarium Light, Saltwater Freshwater Fish Tank Light for Coral, Planted Nano Aquarium Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ETgXCbNTGZMGJ

I have been using it for about a month now and it is great.

crocs Unisex Classic Clog, Black,... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07236CXBQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

NICREW LED Aquarium Light, Fish... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0191EWII2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The lights are available on Amazon, but I don't sell them.

Lominie LED Aquarium Light, Saltwater Freshwater Fish Tank Light for Coral, Planted Nano Aquarium Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tYsQCb3ZYDJXD


This works great over my 5 gallon

For a small jar/bowl like this, it can be relatively cheap depending on what you want!

The bowl was $20 at Michael's, though they're constantly having sales (and there's ones similar to this for cheaper elsewhere). I use a mini sponge filter (~$4) and a small 50w heater (~$10). Regular sand substrate would do fine, but you can always go for dirt and other substrates. I opted for Fluorite black sand with a regular sand cap. What makes or breaks it is 1. the light, and 2. whatever plants and things you want to put in. The light I'm using was ~$40
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_JmhSAb7CMQN8X) but works really well for a small planted tank. And depending on what plants you want, you can go crazy and develop a real plant-buying addiction, which I'm guilty of. Regardless, there are lots of cheap plants you can buy too! The plant in back (rotala) is relatively cheap.

Haha I think I bought the exact same bowl (bubble ball 12) yesterday and a super similar piece of spiderwood. That means we both have great taste.

What light are you using in that. I was thinking about using this light.

Does everything look super magnified in the bowl?

Depends on the size of the tank really. Here are the most popular budget options on amazon.

ARKNOAH LED Aquarium Light 165W Full Spectrum Dimmable for Fish Tank Coral Reef Growth in Freshwater and Saltwater with White Blue LPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLXWQ3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HqU7Bb4BMJ29G

HIPARGERO LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W Cree Chips for Coral Reef Fish Nano Tank (New) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yrU7BbKGP8BEY

VIPARSPECTRA Timer Control 165W LED Aquarium Light Dimmable Full Spectrum for Coral Reef Grow Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XrU7BbWZDWD3P

Hipargero Aquarium LED Lights for Saltwater Nano Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eHSLAb51HNDAX

>HIPARGERO LED

Is this it?


https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=HIPARGERO+LED&qid=1551196590&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I doubt it would really be enough as far as spectrum but if you can find reviews that say it works then go for it. You can pick up a light that absolutely works here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_p3dSDb4ZCRBXM

Alright thanks for the suggestions, I'll definitely keep checking and make changes accordingly. I'm using a pair of these https://www.amazon.com/LED-Aquarium-Light-Hipargero-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q
The reviews seemed good and it was affordable. I turn them on in the mornings and then off at evening before bed.

Do you think two of these could work?
https://www.amazon.com/LED-Aquarium-Light-Hipargero-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1521604911&sr=1-5&keywords=reef+tank+led

this one

Thank you so for the advice/suggestions. I'm just confused by all the stats. I don't know if I have to look at watts, PAR, PUR, Kelvin, Lumens.. etc.

However, I did manage to find this nano LED light on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Hipargero-Touch-Control-Aquarium-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505764896&sr=8-2&keywords=reef+tank+light+18+inch

What do you think of this one?

Edit: Also, how do you know what stats for light are good for the dimensions of your tank? Or should you fit the stats more to what coral you want to grow? E.g. color temp, wattage, lumens

I have a Nuvo 10 and i just use the return nozzle as the main source of flow in the tank, but its pretty low flow and indirect.

I have I have this light i know its not the strongest but ive seen some videos/forum posts saying that its pretty good for low/moderate light corals (depending on the placement and all of my coarls are just in the sand bed till i figure out a better place to put them)

I dont have a really high end test kit, im just using the API saltwater kit to test and it the PH was 8.4 Nitrite was 0, Nitrate was very low, under 5.

Ive had them for about 6 weeks or so, the tank its self is about a year old and i havent changed anything at all since ive added them. It seemed so sudden and strange because i always check my tank before going to bed and everything seemed completely fine, the Xenia was pulsing and the GSP was open, then i woke up and the GPS was completely closed and the Xenia was slouched over and the tips where closed.

Ive been reading some other forum post about people saying that sometimes their Xenia will just "Completely disappear then come back with a vengeance" but i cant seem to find much of anything about the GPS in terms of how its acting, might just have to keep looking.

Also if it means anything i buy my water from an LFS and do water changes every 4 days or so.

Excel is best used for killing algae via spot treatment. It really is not a substitute for CO2.

Maybe this light. The spectrum output isn't special but not a concern if you're not growing red plants. Also if you have a desk lamp around that can also work.

I've been looking at this light ( seen a lot of success with it on insta )

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ/

What i'm really looking for with this is being able to have some success with carpeting plants and possibly growth coming out of the tank depending on what I put in there

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the light I picked up, it's awesome, but the neck may not be as long.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ

I use this one on my 2.5, it's very blue but can grow at least softies: Wave-point 6-Inch 8-Watt Super Blue and Daylight Micro Sun LED High Output Clamp Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZK80YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ogi-Bb17DDP62

I also was talking to a guy at a frag swap who recommended this one: HIPARGERO LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W Cree Chips for Coral Reef Fish Nano Tank (New) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pji-Bb2CRC2NN

A few different kinds:

https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Timer-165W-Aquarium-Dimmable/dp/B00UMXAR5S
https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-aquarium-light-Saltwater/dp/B078SM3NYZ
https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q

You can see other vendors of the same/similar light:

https://www.amazon.com/s/field-keywords=reef+led

I have this light
Lominie LED Aquarium Light, Saltwater Freshwater Fish Tank Light for Coral, Planted Nano Aquarium Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07236CXBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IAsODbQSZCNT7

It seemed pretty decent ?

Protein Skimmer ~ $65

Lighting ~$62

​

I have experience with the protein skimmer. It work's great and like I mentioned earlier, you'd need to get two of the lighting fixtures to really cover the length of the tank and keep SPS. One will do for soft coral and some LPS.

​

You can skimp on lighting but for the most part you'd only be able to keep softy corals and it won't look as great when compared to the higher end lighting.

At the end of the day you want your corals to be able to get the PAR they need.

+1 to this. I'd do two on such a long tank. Here's another link with more reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XdcSBbV5CX20X

I set my tank up about a month ago. I'm still new, but I've learned a lot so far.

1. I started with basic guppies. I've heard that rasboras, mollies, platies, corydoras, and danios are also very easy to take care of. Here's a list of "beginner" fish.
   
   
2. I started with 37G. It's a bit big. Water changes are frequent things, and the bigger your tank, the more you have to do. That said, the smaller your tank, the more your water condition can fluctuate/spike. I'd recommend a 20G long - the depth of my tank is the most annoying for me.
   
   
3. Yep. I'm doing fish-in cycling, and it's a pain.
   
   
4. Yep. Get one that will run through your entire tank's volume multiple times an hour. You want a filter rated for more than your tank - if you do 20G, and get a 20G-rated filter, you're just baaarely doing enough filtration. Aquaclear has very good reviews.
   
   
5. Probably a couple hundred bucks. Don't forget, you'll probably need a heater, too!

Try this one. It says it is for a 60 to 110 but use the selection box like I did in the link.

Does your dad have an API freshwater master test kit? If so,what are the parameters. If not, get one and test the water. Your dad is using distilled water?! Then he also needs to add certain minerals to the water itself. I'd like to know why he's using distilled water.

AquaClear 30 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 30 Carbon, AquaClear 30 Foam & AquaClear 30 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4EPbzbM44XXWZ

It's not the best quality, so you will probably have to replace parts of it over time, but it's a good starter kit.

If you want to get some slightly higher quality gear for a comparable price, I recommend:

• get a standard 20 gallon tank at the dollar per gallon sale ($20)
  
• filter: Aquaclear 30 ($30)
  
• heater: Hydor 50W($20)
  
• lights: Nicrew LED 20-27"($30)
  
  Boom, that's $100 and you get pretty much everything that's included in the kit but it will last longer. I don't think the light will let you grow much more than low-light plants, but it probably won't be worse than the light that comes with the kit.

Link to volcano.

Link to filter

I'm getting a second filter in a day or two. I knew I should have gone with the 50 in the first place, but oh well.

I got the one below, but I only have a 10 gallon tank. They have larger versions for different tank sizes. I noticed that if you keep the cover off of the top of the filter it makes it even more quiet than it already was to start with. If I weren't in a bind and could have waited for it to ship I would have ordered on Amazon. That is a great price. I paid $40 for that filter in petsmart


https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG?th=1&psc=1

I have the Fluval power filter 30, and I have the flow set to medium. Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B00020SVDG

Thank you so much for your input!

AquaClear 30
I can also add a Tetra Whisper PF10(gallon) if you think that would help.(?)

According to AqAdvisor, your stocking level would be at 102% with 6 Neon Tetras, 6 Harlequin Rasbora and 1 Platy (not 2): See Here

Also-- you'll need a better filter as this filter is not enough. I would recommend an Aquaclear 30.

I have a 20 gallon that I use two Aqua Clears with. They are simple and inexpensive.


http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381960009&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+30

I had a biowheel but the wheel kept stopping. I think a canister is kinda overkill for such a small tank. Plus, it's expensive. I love the aquaclear's ability to mix and match media. I used the sponge along with some Purigen and ceramic stones for bacteria. The only problem I had was my plants kept fouling the intake tube when bits got caught in there but I simply had to take out the tube and clean it.

I say you get that and if it you like the hobby, then you can invest in a canister.

Are you wanting a canister for the efficiency or because it more aesthetically pleasing?

Just my personal opinion, I wouldn't get a canister for a tank that small. I'd probably get an Aquaclear... maybe something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348770268&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter+30

The Aquaclear filters are a great HOB filter that is reliable and very generous with the amount of filtration space it provides. There's also the Azoo Mignon Filter which is equally as good and has space in the back for a small heater if you can fit it.

Gotcha, thanks! Would this one be good, you think? https://theplantguy.ca/collections/substrate-1/products/plantguys-slow-release-substrate-fertilizer-50-100-or-200-tabs-free-shipping

Comparing it to, say API Root Tabs or Seachem root tabs, it's got a much higher percentage of N, P & K.

https://www.amazon.ca/API-Freshwater-Aquarium-Fertilizer-0-4-Ounce/dp/B003OYMOWQ

https://www.amazon.ca/Seachem-67105050-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/

That's a good gravel but it will be hard to carpet small plants in because of the size of the pebbles. So I'd suggest mixing a smaller more nutritious substrate in the areas you want to put your smallest plants. like Flourite
and also bury some fertilizer tabs

Nice work. Anubias is perfect - I keep it in my betta tank and he loves it. A few suggestions, though, to make it easier. Take some of the filter material from your current tank and put it in the new filter. If you do that, you have an instant cycle. One suggestion with the live plants is to pick up "Root Tabs." They will provide nutrients to the plants to promote strong root growth. I'd also suggest a liquid fertilizer like Seachem Flourish if you want optimal growth (nice looking plants!).

Also, driftwood is absolutely great. You will have "tannins" leaching into the water from the wood for awhile (essentially brown proteins without getting too much into the biology of it). They aren't harmful to the fish, but can make the water a dark, almost tea color. To deal with this, just change the carbon in your filter more frequently and do more frequent water changes.

how do you pre-fertilizing the soil?

Do I just throw in the Osmocote Plus, then Amazonia? is the root tabs optional? I was looking at this Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count. Does the Root tabs go on top?

Also, I was looking into the dry start method which seems like it would be a little easier for myself, what are your thoughts on this?

Thanks for being such a big help and having great advice for a noob like myself!

Hey! Some other people asked about the air pump and fertilizer, but the root tabs are the the Seachem Flourish Tabs (these ones). There are five left. These are the scissors and tongs I have. Let me know if you're still interested!

Just little tabs (think like mentos size) of fertilizer you place in substrate once of month that contains most nutrients plants need!

https://www.amazon.com/API-Root-Tabs-Count-Ounces/dp/B003OYMOWQ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/ref=psdc_2975478011_t1_B003OYMOWQ

Flourish Tabs are the common one but you are just looking for a root feeder tab.

The moss balls will be fine next to the sand.

Very simple really. You just poke the tab deep into the substrate every couple of months. I'm really not trying to pump you Seachem products but their fert. tabs are pretty good and I use them in my own tank. This is for any plant that you have actually planted. For floaters you'll need to sub with a few drops of liquid ferts.
http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453098468&sr=8-1&keywords=freshwater+plant+fertilizer

There are, naturally, many more products to use for ferts. Some much better and more expensive, but I have found that these work well and are on sale quite often. A bag or two will last me a year. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345646737&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+root+tabs


Basically they are fertilizer for your plants that get nutrients from their root systems. If you use substrates like pool filter sand, plain aquarium gravel, you can use these to help your plant get more nutrients easier and survive. But with you having flourite I don't think you need to spend the extra money on them.

Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H5yIybZWP7ZHC

I recently brought BGA (cyanobacteria) into my tank with some new plants. Didn't take long for it to spread. Friend suggested I try this stuff: Ultralife Blue Green Slime Remover
Still haven't used it, but reviews seem positive and my friend swears by it.

Definitely cyanobacteria. I've heard this stuff works well http://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Green-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B000QSK31M?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But you should definitely keep the water extra clean. Maybe add some more low light plants to help soak up the nitrates.

I noticed that cleaning my filter, coupled with this product did the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Green-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1498613632&sr=1-1&keywords=blue+green+algae

Get this stuff works amazing! Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YVL4Bb80BM0SH

This was recommended to me:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_RNZ6Cb5GA4C8H
I just started using today so we'll see if it works in a week.

Edit: Loooove the moss by the way. Really pretty tank!

I've had extensive experience dealing with cyano in my 20 long. The most effective solution for me was to use spot treat with Hydrogen Peroxide. Here's the rough process I used:

1. Remove as much Cyano as I could with a toothbrush
   
2. Turn off the filters and pumps to stop water flow
   
3. Keep the fish and other inhabitants away from the treatment area using barriers
   
4. Use a dropper to squirt H2O2 on the bacteria directly. This will cause the bacteria to bubble up like an air stone and you can clean up the remains using a net.
   
   In my case, reducing ferts and light for a while helped outbreaks. Another option is to use commercially available product like this:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Green-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B000QSK31M
   
   but I do not have personal experience with that particular product.

https://youtu.be/4c4MoOD-zpI

All hail cory from aquarium co-op...


And this stuff works great

Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It looks like blue green slime algea to me. Almost no fish eat it as it's not actually an algae but a diatom. The only fish I heard eats it is the neon blue goby (stiphodon atropurpureus) but I can't confirm this. I do know ultralife blue green slime remover works extremely well. Take the recommendation of uv light and extra air stone seriously. The first time I used it I got a green water algea blue a week after it killed all the slime. I have never had a problem with slime again. Highly recommend the product.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSK31M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_iYPSCbJ1P5S77

I got a water pump like you suggested, I set it pretty low so it wouldn’t bother my betta too much but it looks like it’s doing the job! I think most of the Cyanobacteria is gone, I just have to syphon off the excess dead stuff and maybe dose the tank again to be safe. I used this stuff since it wouldn’t kill off my nitrifying bacteria.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QSK31M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This. Worked great for me. Didn't harm plants.

this product worked like magic on my tank

My tank was absolutely covered in BGA and someone recommended this product and it got rid of it all in three days

I think if I do get it, I would ge tthat one,
I think you are talking about this
https://www.amazon.ca/Aquatic-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge-50-Gallon/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474475175&sr=8-4&keywords=RODI

If you are looking for a small RODI I purchased one off Amazon for $50 at the time. IT works great and I have not had any problems with it. It has gone up a little but still an excellent value.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/?coliid=I3LCUW6P1PNM08&colid=2256ZMASSX6OZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I have been looking at CO2 injection, anything you could suggest? It completely confuses me

EDIT: Would something like this work if my rtap water has phosphates?

the place i got them goes by purewaterclub now, but i saw this one and i'd order it if i was ordering them now, the color changing DI filter is good to have.

https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge/dp/B00204CQF6/

I'm looking at these two RO systems. Should I pay extra for the four stage model at the cost of half the GPD?

4 stage 50 gpd includes deionization filter

3 stage 100 gpd

It will last indefinitely in a sealed bucket, but you don't want to agitate or heat it. The only danger is that alkalinity will precipitate out over time...you might want to test before you use it and adjust back to your desired range.

​

Just FYI, you can get cheap RODI systems for $60 and make it yourself too.

If it's not rated for Aquariums, then it's probably not going to work. I would recommend instead looking at the RO buddy system on Amazon.

EDIT: Link

There are some pretty cheap RO or DI water systems that you can get on amazon. I got my DI system for $60 here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_umJSDbKVPYZFZ

It just hooks onto your faucet (you have to remove the aerator from your faucet, which is just the little mesh screen thing at the opening) it's worked great for me since I live in a tiny apartment and can't re-plumb anything.

My water hardness is about 10 to 11dKH. Is it worth getting an RODI unit to help soften the water to provide better conditions for plants? Amazon has ones for $60 that look good enough.

I have good lighting, co2, fertz and all that. The hardness feels like the last hurdle.

BRS has good videos on RODI units and ROBuddie has their own video in setting it up properly.

here’s a link to amazon It looks like its $59.99 right now so it’s a good price.

All my test kits are API. How often should I add the remineralized RO water to replace the water I have in there currently?

I'm looking at inexspensive R/O units on Amazon currently and just ordered some salty shrimp GH/KH. I appreciate your advice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204CQF6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I got one. Best decision ever

I was in the same boat as you, paying ~$1 a gallon for distilled water, as none of the local supermarkets had RO fill-up stations.

I bought this RO/DI system off of amazon for $60.

I've used it for a few brews now, and have had no issues. It's been putting out about 3 gal/hr for me.

It'll pay for itself after the 8th brew or so.

Sounds good. I'd second what other people say about other water conditioners though, and if you have the funds pick up some high quality testing kits. I also got one of these for my betta to sleep in and he loves it https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zoo-Med-BL-10E-Floating-Betta/dp/B0027ITKBS

If you want to see if your betta will accept a more natural-looking sleeping place, you could try this Zoo Med floating log. Mine love them! I would just add it in, give it a month or so, and see if he switches over or still prefers the basket.

No problem! I'm sure your betta will make it fine through the cycle with some of the old substrate. Betta are pretty tough. Just make sure to do small water changes everyday to keep ammonia and nitrite down.

I got the log off Amazon. My betta uses it often so it was certainly money well spent. If you decide to get it, consider adding this to the cart as well. It is what most people use to test their water and is much more reliable than strips. You can find both the log and the kit at Petsmart but I find that it's cheaper to buy on Amazon.

I have the same tank and I'm using the Aqueon Pro 50 watt. It's been perfect for 4 months.

http://smile.amazon.com/Aqueon-Heaters-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B003C5JNXK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

I replaced the filter with a sponge filter.

My betta loves this:

http://smile.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Floating-Betta-Log/dp/B0027ITKBS?ie=UTF8&colid=XFU5W5TP6HEO&coliid=I11ZTSLNOA7LUT&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

The filter's good! It'd be too stressful to forgo the filter and have to do 100% water changes to keep up.

Awww, pretty! :] Look here or here for the betta log. There are tons of places to find them, though.

Hope you get him a 10 gallon or bigger with plants he can rest on.
My betta loved this :


https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Floating-Betta-Log/dp/B0027ITKBS


I'll share assume of the names I had for my bettas over the years :

Captain Morgan

Gilligan

And

Master Betta

Beta log: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ITKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_HzTVAbSXTKKHK

I used only ZooMed's, it is not marked as betta safe, and even if it was, it should be true: it will not kill betta... See reviews on Amazon for both: logs and betta hammocks.

Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027ITKBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484168848&sr=8-1&keywords=betta+log&dpPl=1&dpID=51JUtrggGCL&ref=plSrch

This one floats and the same company makes a similar looking sinking log.

This one by ZooMed. It's one of the more popular ones, I found it at Petco

Sorting the review by most recent I don't see any recent reviews saying that it peeled off, some say it has sharp edges, some don't mention them.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Floating-Betta-Log/product-reviews/B0027ITKBS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_rvwer?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent&pageNumber=1&reviewerType=avp_only_reviews

If you buy one from amazon, i would put it in a glass or bowl for a week or so, and if it started to peel or the surface roughened up, just send it back. Amazon has a great return policy. :-)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027ITKBS/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZB4SV63TNRGAHYRCDMD


Yep.

Sorry to say, but I'm a bit new to this. Can you explain the first paragraph like I'm 5 or something? Everything else I pretty much understand. Is [this heater] (http://www.amazon.com/Changeshopping-Submersible-Adjustable-Aquarium-Thermostat/dp/B00KXXV1GQ/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411764389&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=adjustable+heater+fish+tank) any good? Also getting this leaf and this hiding spot, is there anything else I need besides gravel?

Hi there, it's lovely that you want to help this fish! It's sad that a school is willing to set such a poor example of animal care to kids.


Would your parents be willing to help? If so, a letter from them to the school saying something along the lines of "We feel it's important to teach our children compassion and responsibility when it comes to animal care, and the fish in the library doesn't have a proper set up for a betta fish. Please lead by example and use this as a teaching opportunity by setting up a proper small tank for the school fish. Thank you".


If they wouldn't want to get involved, then a Betta leaf hammock (link) would be more useful for him than a moss ball, and they only cost $3-4. If it's placed a few inches below the surface of the water, Bettas like to lie and rest and sleep on them, but also be close to the surface so they can breathe (Bettas can breathe oxygen from the surface, which is why people feel okay about keeping them in small bowls that would kill a fish that can't do that much more quickly).


https://www.amazon.co.uk/zoomed-Floating-Betta-Leaf-Hammock/dp/B0027IZ6KW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3VIYPUOID4VKB&keywords=betta+leaf+hammock&qid=1566918613&s=gateway&sprefix=betta+leaf%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-2

If it is sold for fish, it is probably fine. The only thing I would watch for is sharp edges, bettas tend to have long delicate fins that snag easily. Feel all around, and if there are any sharp places, just sand them off, and rinse off the sanding dust.

Also, not sure if that is floating or sinking log? Betta's sometimes like to explore/hide low, but mostly like to hide high, near the surface, so they can come up to breathe. I have this type of floating log, (it floats like this and my betta loves hiding and sleeping in it. I did have to sand off a bunch of rough areas though.

If it is a sinking log, you might want to also add something near the surface, like a betta hammock or float a live anubias plant.

Basically Guppy isn't great at catching food. If it's in the surface it tends to float away from where I feed and it sinks near the back of the tank. Sometimes Guppy can't see the food floating until it sinks, then she chases it but if she isn't fast enough it hits the bottom and she ignores it. So I've devised this little setup.

Basically just a floating feeding ring and a betta leaf hammock. The floating ring keeps it from floating off and the leaf catches any bits that sink. The brown granules are easily noticed by Guppy on the green leaf and she knows where exactly to stay when she's being fed!

Betta Feeding Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GP2PTVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OgZTDbQWF49TT

Zoo Med Laboratories Betta Hammock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027IZ6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hhZTDbJHHB604

(I swear I'm not sponsored but this has been a real frustrating thing for me so in case anyone else is in this situation)

Hello! I love bettas! They are awesome fish to upkeep! They also have the most interesting personalities! (I swear the one I have in my bedroom stares at me sometimes when he's extra hungry)

1. Bettas like pretty normal temperatures (76-82ºF/24-27ºC), but with a 10G you will need a heater. When you go look at filters you will see that the size you get depends on your tank, so you will get a 10 gallon filter. I suggest an Aqueon, you can't go wrong with that.
   
2. Try something this heater, it has a thermostat so you have more control. You can find a cheap thermometer at the pet store that will suction to the side. I have my bettas in a 5 gallon and they do rather well.
   
3. Do you want live plants? That's a whole other level of tank. It's fun and challenging sometimes. Java Ferns, anubias, marimo balls and java moss.
   
4. Bettas love themselves and playing, I'd avoid mirrors though that could stress them out from trying to protect their territory from themselves. You can get a betta hammock for it to nap in, a snail for it to flare up at every once and a while, I even put ghost shrimp in the tank for mine, and when one dies he plays with it and eats it (circle of life)
   
5. I've gotten all mine at Petco.
   
6. The substrate depends on if you want to plant your tank.
   
7. Yes yes yes yes yes yes!
   
8. Here's this easy guide if you want to read it

So something like this for example? https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-AZMBL20-Hammock/dp/B0027IZ6KW/ref=zg_bs_2975453011_1#customerReviews

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B4KG2Q/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SY115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51cgOhWUtTL

Tank


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006JVQ67K/ref=s9_top_hm_b3FMi1z_g199_i2

Heater

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027IZ6KW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419281694&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51A5Tlq5o1L&ref=plSrch

Hammock (optional, I have one for all 3 of my betta, it gives them a nice spot near the surface for resting, I think it would be a nice pick-me-up for a sick betta)

This tank is cheap and I cannot recommend it enough. I got it because a friend had it and I saw how awesome it is. My only suggestion is to move the tube with the filter toward the edge of the tank, as it is kind of obstructive in the middle and you really don't need the little prop thing it comes with.

http://i.imgur.com/FQgJjqP.jpg

My setup with all of the above, including the filter modification. Comes in about $20 under budget too, which id suggest spending on a first aid kit. You never know when your fish could get sick, and it is much better to have everything you need on hand than have to make an emergency pet supply run.

Thanks! I forgot to mention how much I love serpae tetra as well and hope to include them.

Any suggestions for a hood? This Marineland LED has some questionable reviews but I'm having trouble finding suitable alternatives.

Looks like the Aquaclear HOB would be a little large for the hole in that particular hood (6.5" pre-cut hole and the filter says 7") but I'm not afraid to cut it to make it larger. I suppose if I get a submersible heater there's no other equipment that would require additional holes hole to be cut into the hood, right?

Any heater preferences?:

Fluval

Aqueon

Eheim

Eheim heaters are definitely the best, most reliable heaters I have used (by a lot). I use this one on my 6 gallon: http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405822008&sr=8-3&keywords=eheim+heater

I've got a 10g from petsmart with a 20$ Eheim heater and a basic HOB filter that's been doing just fine. All you've gotta watch out for is too much current annoying the betta and potentially hurting flowy fins. I'd also recommend some live plants- I've both heard good things and had good experiences. They're sorta fun to aquascape too, check out some of the pictures on google people do phenomenal stuff. Be careful though- one day you'll realize you've spend 100$+ on the addiction haha. Also I like having some sand in there, it looks great and is easy to clean. Do some research on it. I had good results putting some heavier gravel underneath the "Waterfall" of the HOB filter, as sand kicking up can fry a filter motor.

To answer your questions:

1. I wouldn't recommend tank mates unless you research them a lot. My ghost shrimp were aggressive fellas and I was often worried they'd nip my betta. Generally betta food is pretty wide-range stuff so most other fish will be ok, even shrimp liked my betta food when I had them.
   
   
2. Definitely invest in a 50 Watt+ adjustable heater. Those preset 25 Watt heaters worry me, there are enough bad reviews to stop my purchasing. Like I said I've liked my Eheim and it was fairly cheap on amazon. It was 20$ on sale, and by the time you buy the cheap 10$ ones and break two you'll be in the positive (buy good quality and only buy once).
   
   
3. The only thing to worry about with size is height. Bettas will occasionally go to the top to take a breath with labyrinth organ, watch yours for awhile one day and you'll see it. This can get tiring & stressful in a very high tank (like the 20 Gallon "tall" tanks- avoid these). Side note, my betta has seemed to like tall plants to rest on near the surface, but out of the current of the filter.
   Also in something like a 50G tank I'm not sure that the biological filter could even be maintained by only one betta, theres so little waste! It would be questionable without some tank mates/live plants. A small bio load means little good bacteria, which means they are more prone to crashing. The flip side of this is a large too large bioload with no room for more bacteria (Ex> 20+ fish in a 10G)
   
   Heater link:
   http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1419403587&sr=1-9&keywords=eheim+heater
   
   

Way to go with the upgrade! I'd go with the Aquaclear 20 and the EHEIM Jager heater. The heater my be a slight bit more than others but it's not going to fall apart in a year and need to be replaced. Cobalt Neo-Therm is by far my favorite heater is more expensive but so easy to set an looks much better in the tank.

Edit: Also wanted to add that you should save any filter media from your 2.5 tank to add to the new filter. This will help you get you new tank cycled a bit faster.

Sorry to be that person but a 6 gallon is too small for tetras in the long run. They need a lot of swimming space. As for dwarf puffers, they have a higher bioload, and often are picky/messy eaters, who need a heavily planted tank. (I have three in a planted 10 gallon and maintain it twice a week and feed them live food daily.)

The Fluval edge would be great for a nice planted tank with a great scape, consider a dry start! (Not sure what the lighting will allow.)

For a 6 gallon I would always suggest a betta, or shrimp (Nercradinas), they will both appreciate a planted tank. Make sure your tank is cycled first.

As for a heater, I would suggest the Eheim Jagger 50W as it was suggested to me and I think it works well and is not too over priced ($21.83 on amazon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=twister_B00TQZ7G7K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. I have one in my saltwater tank and can adjust the temp, but always have a thermometer to make sure the temp is correct, and it is not running non-stop. The pre-set heater does work well too, but I find adjustable heaters may be helpful.

It's not overprice. It's actually a very fairly price and well thought out kit. There's some unnecessary things, and the stock nuvo lights are fine (I actually have them only cause I got a sweet deal), but I would rather get the tank only and different lights. Here's my
attempt to piece that kit together with more ideal parts:

NUVO FUSION 20 BY INNOVATIVE MARINE ($200 anywhere)
This kit includes the TANK WITH THE LIGHTS, which are $400 MSRP. Just get the tank at $200. Use the $200 you would've spent on a better light and fixture:


AI PRIME HD AND MOUNT ($225 for light MSRP, $30 mount, MSRP)
This is a much better light. Stronger. Controllable (able to control all spectrums, set a sunrise sunset schedule, all from a mobile app). The Nuvo lights are just on and off, with no switch. You have to plug them into outlet timers. The AI PRIME is way better, for only a little more.


20 LBS. OF REEF SAVER ROCK ($52 bulk reef supply)
This is actually a good price per pound.


100 ML INSTANT OCEAN BIO-SPIRA (NOT NEEDED)
If you cycle your tank properly, this isn't needed.


4 OZ CLORAM-X AMMONIA REMOVER (NOT NEEDED)
You shouldn't be using a chlorinated water source to begin with, so declorinator only enables bad habits. Get RODI water from a local reef store, or make your own, or at the very worst, use vending machine water.


20 LB. SPECIAL GRADE ARAG-ALIVE! LIVE REEF SAND ($30 amazon)
You definitely want at LEAST special grade sand. Google it. Grain size matters. Too fine, and you'll get a sandstorm when the water is moved.
https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Special-Bimini/dp/B000EM2BRO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479312554&sr=8-3&keywords=arag+alive


HW-MARINEMIX REEFER SALT MIX (DONT GET THIS SALT)
Instead, get the gold standard:


INSTANT OCEAN REEF CRYSTALS ($50 for enough to make 160 gallons, Drs Foster and Smith, also, FREE BUCKET!)
Make sure you get REEF CRYSTALS if you want corals (it's the orange box/bag), or you can get just the regular INSTANT OCEAN (purple box/bag) if you're doing fish only. This is the most trusted and widely used and available salt. I recommend you use it, so your corals always get the same consistency of nutrients, since this salt is sold everywhere and reliable.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4856


REFRACTOMETER FOR READING SALINITY WITH CALIBRATION FLUID (THESE ARE UNNECESSARY)
Accurate? Yes. Pain in the ass? Also yes. Always having to clean these and calibrate them sucks. Get a standard plastic floaty arrow hydrometer instead.


HYDROMETER ($11 amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-tk504-SeaTest-Hydrometer/dp/B00019JOSO


TUNZE CARE MAGNET NANO - 0220.010 CLEANER MAGNET (UNNECESSARILY OVERPRICED ITEM)
Everyone knows that when it comes to cleaning magnets, Mag Floats are the go to. Sure you can pay more, but you don't always get more.


MAGFLOAT SMALL ($12)
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU030SM-Mag-Float-Aquarium/dp/B003WRKVUC


MARINE S PELLET FISH FOOD - HIKARI (THERE ARE BETTER FOODS)
The best widely available pellet fish good is New Life Spectrum.


NEW LIFE SPECTRUM THERA A ($10 most online places)
They have big pellets and small pellets. Make sure you get the small pellets.


HMA-S 50W FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE HEATER (YOU COULD BUY YOUR OWN FOR CHEAPER)


EHEIM JAGER 50W HEATER ($23 amazon)
These are pretty well regarded and reliable heaters. Avoid getting the $15 chinese heaters, for a few bucks more this is a brand you can trust.
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313472&sr=8-1&keywords=50+w+heater+jager


HPS-100 FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE (GET ANOTHER FOR CHEAPER)
It's cool that the BRS team thought of this, but you can get your own large cheap heater for mixing water. Since it's a nuvo 20, and water changes would be around 2-5 gallons, a 150 watt or even 200 watt heater could warm up the water to match the tank pretty quickly.


EHEIM JAGER 150 WATT HEATER ($25 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003M7P9YU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313666&sr=8-3&keywords=150w+heater


HYDOR KORALIA EVOLUTION POWERHEAD 600 ($29 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Evolution-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B004F461UA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313724&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+koralia+600


So as you can see, you can do it with better parts and remove unnecessary things, but you'd be paying $697 before tax. Personally, I would still rather part it myself, because I know I can find used AI primes with mounts for $150-$200 (check the classifieds of reef forums or you local club). Also, I don't have to buy some of this stuff because I'm already in the fish hobby and have leftover heaters, or have friends who are that can help me get started. But if you're in a hurry and want to start, or this is your first endeavor into fish keeping and have no fish keeping friends, the BRS kit is not bad at all and the convenience is nice.

PROTIP: If you do plan on buying something this big from BRS, i'll let you in on a trick. First, make an account if you don't already have one. Then, add the kit to your cart. Then, leave it there for a few days. You'll get an email reminding you that you have it in your cart, and since it's a large purchase, they'll give you a coupon (i forget the percentage) to encourage you to buy it. Then use the coupon and buy it lol. WINNING!

I'm using a fluval diffuser (Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9IeDybVE2XBQ4) and I use 3 BPS. I am switching to inline reactor and attaching it to my fluval 206 - just waiting for the sleeves to come in the mail. Thought I might like the look of the bubbles but it turns it I hate them lol.

Nice tank! Just a suggestion -- I had the same fluval diffuser, and realized it wasn't as effective as the fluval ceramic diffuser which is a lot smaller. Also more effective due to size of bubbles. https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

I'm using that setup in a 5 gallon Fluval Spec right now. Ditch the diffuser it comes with, its huge. Get the this [one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486225190&sr=8-1&keywords=Fluval+diffuser)

You can also get threaded mini co2 canisters much cheaper than the fluval brand. $23 for a 15 pack. Each one lasts me about a month on 6 hours a day/ 1 bubble per second. link

Its a bit cumbersome, the valve takes some time to get used to. The slightest twist will either be too much or nothing at all. Its not automatic so you basically have to touch it twice a day, once to turn it on and once again to off. IF you have any questions let me know

http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414044611&sr=1-1&keywords=aquatek

I was looking at this, how long does a 20oz tank last you op?


P.s I've used this diffuser and the bubbles are smaller
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-Diffuser-Aquarium-3-1-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414044741&sr=1-11&keywords=aquatek

Very cool write-up, thanks!

Your diffuser is very clever, but even for a DIY system, I personally recommend to buy a diffuser. I tried about half a dozen different DIY diffusers, and eventually decided to just give in and buy one. I am currently using the Fluval Ceramic one, and will never go back:

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

$20 got me the diffuser, plus 3 replacement ceramic disks. Mine has been running for a month, and makes a ton of tiny micro-bubbles. I placed it at the bottom of my tank under my powerhead, and my plants absolutely love it.

The only drawback to this diffuser is your Co2 system needs a LOT of pressure for it to start working. If you use it, make sure you are using thick bottles and well sealed air lines.

I've never used a ladder, but I think that a ceramic diffuser would be better. I've used a fluval diffuser and it seems to work, plus its cheap. There are plenty of more expensive ones out there, but I haven't used them.

All co2 diffusers work by increasing the time and the surface area over which the co2 comes in contact with the water. The ladder diffusers have a few large bubbles that spend a couple seconds in contact, while the ceramic diffusers create hundreds of tiny bubbles that spend a few seconds floating, much more surface area. You can also position the diffuser beneath the return from your filter; it will blow the bubbles around in the tank increasing the time the bubbles have to dissolve.

Thanks!
Here's a link for the diffuser I'll be switching to maybe you'll like it too

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=asc_df_B004GCO35G/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=234376523249&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14328734804121458538&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000020&hvtargid=pla-293946777986&psc=1#immersive-view_1535844498454

I've ran the CO2 tubing directly into the intake of my HOB filter and it did "ok". I eventually got a fluval ceramic diffuser and it's been terrific. I still keep it below the inlet of the filter but the bubbles are much smaller. I also tried using bamboo chopsticks as a diffuser and that worked pretty well but occasionally it got clogged but very inexpensive and easily hidden.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GCO35G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00


It's made for nano tanks so i figured I'd give it a shot and I absolutely love it.

fluval diffuser

looks like "melt"

I advice a simple DIY CO2... seeing what my plants did after struggling for ages is wonderful.

just need a few cheap amazon parts to order and sugar, bit of baking soda yeast and a cpl old lemonade bottles.

You'd be golden and hitting your head why you didn't do this before.

I am currently using the Fluvial bubble counter. Any recommendation on using a bubble counter that gives bigger bubbles?
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462553909&sr=8-1&keywords=bubble+counter&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind

Diffuser System

glass co2 checker

drops co2

bubble counter

The glass spiral diffuser

Ahh, I see. So something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=sr_1_7keywords=Inline+CO2+Bubble+Counter&qid=1567725222&s=gateway&sr=8-7 would be better? Thanks a lot

EDIT* If I do decide with the rhinox bubble counter, could you link me a coupler or adapter?

Ah yes, you will need one of those. I was viewing those links with my phone and I thought the indicator was the bubble counter. I'm sending out a few items from the post office tomorrow and I have this Fluval one that I'm not using. I don't mind sending it over to you if you're in the US. PM me. It would be my good deed for the week :)

Do you have links for exactly all of the connections? I'm getting really tired of all this algae and really want to start a carpet, so C02 here I come.

EDIT: Once again, google has proven very useful lol

DIY kit

Diffuser

Bubble counter

I started with DIY CO2 before switching to pressurized. I used one of these little valves sitting infront of a bubble counter. It was by no means perfect. And the valve was always real sensitive once it started holding pressure behind it, but once it was holding a little pressure, it did keep the flow of CO2 relatively consistent. (And by pressure, I'm not talking like an actual pressurized tank. It was enough that if you opened it all the way is went "pffft") I figured that it kept the release of gas steady while the yeast's production wasn't always perfectly consistent throughout the day. I wouldn't treat it like an on/off solenoid, but you can at least keep a more consistent output that when it builds up overnight, your fish will be able to survive.

I can't tell how big that is but something like this should work for a 6 gallon. http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY?ie=UTF8&keywords=small%20gravel%20vac&qid=1464546739&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

what about an Aqueon Mini? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1494948619&sr=1-2&keywords=mini+aquarium+gravel+cleaner

Normally you only need to do 30-40%. You'll definitely want this siphon, anything bigger won't fit in your tank! You pump them up and down in your tank to get the water flowing so if the intake tube is too long then you can't get it started. It's an add-on item for Amazon though so you'll probably need to order the API test kits with it in order to be able to buy it. I've also seen them in Petco.

Are you referring to these? They contain a one-way valve, with a moving part. When you push down, the valve opens, letting water into the tube, but when you pull up the valve closes, holding the water in the tube so that it builds up as you shake up and down.

if there's too much build-up and it looks gross, try a gravel vac (just a small one like this) and just suck it out as part of your regular water change ;)

I'm sure you heard of this, but just in case you hasn't: http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450737645&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+siphon

What kind of filter is it? You could buy a smaller one, or buy/make a sponge filter, or make a baffle, there are lots of easy DIY tutorials like this one. You really need a filter though for the good bacteria to colonize. Read up on the nitrogen cycle, it's pretty much the most important part of keeping fish. To make this so much easier a test kit like this one is great. Liquid is best, strip are not very accurate. You can take water samples to fish stores and they will test it for you, but ask if it is liquid or strips and get exact numbers for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. A Good reading is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and more than 0 but less than 20 nitrates.

As for the gravel, get a gravel vacuum. Because you are so over stocked, and are not likely to have completed a cycle, you should be doing lots of partial water changes. Press the vacuum into the gravel to disturb it and suck up the gunk when you do a water change. In a cycled tank that is not over stocked you would only need to do a partial water change one a week or once every 2 weeks.

Another note about the filter, the manufacturer directions will tell you to change the filter pad/media once a month. This is just throwing away all the good bacteria and will reset the cycle. If the filter pad gets really really dirty or is falling apart see if you can't put a second pad in with the first for 2 weeks to let the bacteria colonize the new pad before throwing away the old.

Of course! Glad to help. We've all been there and I know I'm still learning new stuff every day.

I unplug everything and use this siphon (I'm sure any is fine though) to suck out water / any obvious debris into a small plastic bucket I happened to have on hand (it's a good idea to designate a bucket to your tank). Luckily for me it was a 1.5 gallon bucket so it's perfect for 50% water changes.

Once the bucket is full I kinda shake around / "brush off" the filter cartridge in the old tank water and put it back. From what I've learned this lets you get all the nasty crap off it without compromising the beneficial bacteria. Even running it under your sink for a bit is a bad idea because of the chlorine in tap water.

I just dump out the bucket in the toilet, flush it, then refill the bucket with tap water. I try and adjust the temperature to be about the same. Put in the water conditioner according to directions. I use API StressCoat+, which I like, but a lot of people here recommend SeaChem Prime. Then just slowly pour water into tank and plug everything back in!

Okay here is a list of supplies off amazon:

Test kit: API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K
(should be found at the store, petsmart price matches from their online store and chewy.com)

Water conditioner: Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K
(at the store, may be in a different section - i found it near the crickets once for some reason)

Food: Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
(online only unless youre lucky)

Gravel Siphon if you dont already have one: Aqueon Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner 5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ypGUDbPQWMG6J (You dont have to get this one ofc, but you should def have a gravel siphon, you can find one of these at the store)

Hikari Usa AHK73254 Prazipro for Aquarium, 4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LOBGYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VqGUDb6RFCYMX
(online only-
or you could try API general cure which is probably at the store for meds)

Biomax: Fluval SPEC Carbon Filter Media - 3-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RIUWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xsGUDb7GSFX4H
(This is at the store too)

For what you have now you can (and should really tbh) still soak in tank water before feeding. Its hard to know how much to feed with flakes, ill always prefer pellets for fish but hmm.. Idk try like 3 medium pieces ? I really am not sure

how is that confusing? my display would use the ai prime, and i would use a hardware light to power (https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518996752&sr=8-1&keywords=marina+breeder+box)
[this] that way i can just have a brighter light specifically to use on the box 24/7.

you're probably better off with one of these guys until they grow big enough to not be eaten, gives them more room and better water flow than a water bottle

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2

I use the large ones, but there are other size so it's not obnoxiously over-sized.

1. Flow is always tricky. You want good movement through everything, but you want the sand to stay down. 300gph in powerheads might be enough, but that will depend on your rock layout and what animals you want to have. Some need more flow than others.
   
   
2. "Basic" hang-on-back (hob) filters are good for adding a bit of extra water volume and flow. But for actually filtering the water, live rock is your main filter. I have an aquaclear 20 on a 2.5g tank right now, its filter chamber is empty at the moment (to increase flow), but I might fill it with live rock rubble one of these days. External canister filters I haven't tried, but hear very mixed opinions on how well they work for saltwater. I would stick with live rock as your main filter.
   
   2a) Refugium filtration! My 2.5g has one of these on it, acting as a refugium and gravity filter. In it is about 3/4" of sand from an established tank, with a small layer of sea shells tossed in to give more hiding places for copepods/amphipods/mysis. It also has a huge spaghetti worm in it that does a great job at cleaning. Basically the refugium is a low-flow environment that lets waste drop out through gravity, with places for small invertebrates to live and eat that waste. You can buy dedicated hob refugiums that will likely fit a 20g tank no problem.
   
   
3. You're going to want salt to spare in general, so you're not surprised in an emergency. Buy a pail if you can afford it, but if you can't, enough for 2 setups and a couple water changes should be good for now.
   
   
4. T5 and T8 are incompatible from what I understand -- I have little experience with bulbs. I always recommend LED. Bulbs need replacing often, and worse, they break!
   
   
5. If you go LED, the 10W per gallon doesn't apply. Lighting is tricky. I would recommend LEDs.
   
   
6. This one is totally up to you, there's advantages and disadvantages for both.
   
   Hope that helped some! Best of luck!

Yes, it’s actually pretty awesome breeding box, I can’t recommend it enough. Easy to clean, super easy to set up. Just hang an airline to the pump and good to go.

Got it from Amazon for $12.

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2

If it gets really cold in your room, you may want to hang it close to your heather though.

This;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005QRDCP2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EWENMAU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TIEMP6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Equals this;

http://s119.photobucket.com/user/gunzen31/media/617D1269-81D4-45D6-BAAA-E0B97B1D596F_zpsf3btyjod.png.html

33 dollars plus tax free shipping. Add some Chaeto and you have a good sized refugium with a pump that fits perfectly with a piece of 1/2 flexible tubing to connect the pump to siphon tube.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005QRDCP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469679463&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=marina+hob&dpPl=1&dpID=415N6F%2BPJBL&ref=plSrch

Not saying you can't use that one, just not familiar with it. I know for certain that there are no openings on a sponge large enough for fry to get into. While yours is probably safe, I can't say that with any certainty. Sponge filters are standard for fry tanks and are very inexpensive. I use this one on a couple of tanks currently: https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI

I'm finally taking the step to setting up my 10 gallon tank. It came with a tetra whisper air pump and a tube. If I buy [this]( https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1501940272&sr=1-4&keywords=sponge+filter ) small sponge filter, is that all the filtration I need? I thought I needed a specific large hang-on-the-side type filter, but upon reading further it seems I may be wrong. Thank you!

That could be good enough, but I like to over-filter so I'd buy this one is bigger and, though it will take up a side of your tank, I believe it is better. The lift tube goes up higher so it has more pull and you can bury the bottom tubes a little into the sand to make it look better.

I have both and I like the bigger one better. Think soda can vs 1/2 of a red bull can.

Lighting is great, but pricey. My roommate and I just use a lamp with a high-temp (light temp is in Kelvins ~6000 is good).

Heater looks great.

Good luck!

(read your other post and I'm not sure about a pump but that one will get you by for at least cycling. If you want to upgrade, pumps aren't that much so no worries)

So two of these, one of the air pump you linked, and some air pump line will be enough filtration for 29g?

How big is the dual sponge filter? I use one of these in my 10 gallon. On the amazon page, it's rated for 20 gallons and would be good enough as the only filter in the tank. They're nice because you can rinse one of the sponges during a water change and not the other, as to not risk killing off all beneficial bacteria in the sponges.

If you bought the smaller version of the sponge filter, the version with only one suction cup, then I might consider using bother filters. Some will say it may be enough for a 10 gallon but I'm just personally a little iffy on that. It ddefinitely doesn't hurt to use both filters anyway. "Over filtration" isn't a bad thing to do.

i would recommend you go with the other type of sponge filters with a solid sponge with a tube in the middle, but if you have to have this kind, maybe go with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/

it has a bigger sponge and more surface area for bacteria to grow.

​

​

​

these types are better:

https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/

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buy an air pump and air tube, connect the air tube to pump and filter. that simple.

This one is rated for 20 gallon tank but since it will not be your primary filter it should suffice.

XY-2822 Air Pump Double Sponge Water Filter for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aC1EzbD46WDCH

Air pump:

Tetra 77853 Whisper Air Pump, 40-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pD1EzbT3HXM4V

Don't bother buying a hang on back or something fancier, for just snails buy an air pump and a sponge filter. Definitely fill the tank all the way, and you'll want to do water changes every few weeks (maybe 10%) once the filter is in. Do you have any idea what kind the snails are, if not would you provide a picture.

Someone down the thread suggested a bare bottom tank, and I would recommend the opposite. With sand many snails will burrow and forage for food and what not. Also if you get a filter going, then the poop won't settle so much and will also degrade. That way you shouldn't need to clean the bottom, just change a bit of water every once in a while

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640650&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+air+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=417Lgh1JmoL&ref=plSrch

And

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640748&sr=8-13&keywords=sponge+filter

You should research your local welding shop, many of them sell CO2 cylinders as well as refill them. Also you're going to need a regulator with a solenoid. I currently run the Aquatek regulator haven't had any problems. There are many videos out there you can watch where people use these products and run through the setup as well.

Very cool. I have also been researching co2 setups. Is this the one you used on amazon? I also noticed that aquatek makes a mini regulator. Am I correct in assuming that the only difference in them is that the mini regulator uses a 24 oz paintball co2 tank and the standard size uses the 5 lb tank?

Also, absolutely gorgeous tank you have! I really like the open top style. May I ask also what kind of lights you are using? I really like how they look. Thank you!

With a 55 gallon, a paintball tank is going to be too impractical. You'll be filling it every couple of weeks. I have a 20L and I'm expecting to be filling it every 2-3 months with my paintball tank. But for anything bigger, I would recommend a 5lb or 10lb CO2 tank. It's one of those big industrial looking ones. You also do need a regulator. I've had this one for a little while with no problems http://www.amazon.com/Premium-AQUATEK-Regulator-Integrated-Solenoid/dp/B009WTXYN0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395846959&sr=8-1&keywords=aquatek+premium+regulator . I've got an adapter for it so it fits onto my paintball tank, but with the 5lb or 10lb CO2 tank, it'll hook right up. Just make sure to buy some teflon tape as well and CO2 proof tubing along with a bubble counter (optional) and a diffuser which you can get for cheap on ebay.

I am in a very similar situation I want to purchase a paintball co2 setup because I have limited space but not sure what regulator to get for it. I was thinking of going with the aquatek premium regulator for a big tank and just use a cga 320 adapter. Looking forward to seeing peoples recommendations on this thread.

In your situation, I'd pick up this solenoid/regulator a 5lb co2 tank from a local machine or drink supplier and a diffuser/drop checker from ebay.

I'm not OP, but do you know of any cheap reliable dual gauge regulators? I cannot afford to drop 200$ on a regulator :/. What are your thoughts on this or this something like it.

I'm looking to set up the entire system for under 200$, do you think that would be possible? I have a 40g breeder I've been wanting to hook up for so long.

Just an aquatek co2 regulator and an inline co2 reactor (which I've removed temporarily to clean/fix)

Hello! I also have a twenty long, and I was just researching this exact thing :)

I have done a lot of research and have all of my equipment picked out. Since you also have a twenty long, this should probably work for you, or at least get you in the right direction. You'll need:

A CO2 Regulator, bubble counter, and check valve. It's all in one, so you don't have to buy them separately.

A CO2 Tank. Should last you a few months, at the very least. You can upgrade to an actual CO2 tank, but I'm not sure the specifics, as I didn't want to go that route. This one that I'm recommending is actually made for paintball guns, but will work with the CO2 Regulator mentioned above, when combined with

An Adapter. This adapter allows you to hook the paintball CO2 can up to the Aquatek CO2 Regulator.

CO2 Proof Tubing. To connect the CO2 Regulator to the

CO2 Diffuser. This makes the CO2 into little bubbles, that travel through your tank. The smaller the bubbles, the better.

A CO2 Drop Checker. This will allow you to constantly monitor your CO2 levels, and will tell you if you need to turn the bubbles up or down. Always start out really low (like 1 bubble per 2 seconds) and then turn it up slowly, until the drop checker is a nice green color. Note that the drop checker is delayed by about two hours, so the color you see is what the levels were like two hours ago. If your fish start gasping, turn the bubbles down, no matter what color the drop checker is.

Edit: Also note that the CO2 should be running with your lights, and off when they are off. If you have a bubble-maker of any sort in your aquarium, run it opposite of the CO2, or it'll just dissolve your CO2 up. This usually means running the bubbler when your lights are off, overnight. If you have the CO2 and bubbler going, theyll just cancel each other out instead of helping your tank.

Let me know if you have any questions :)

Just got this setup, plants seem happy and its really easy to setup (first time planted tank here)

Tank Also available with a free refill (~$5) at dick's but its ~$27 there

Regulator

Tank to regulator adaptor

Total cost = $125

My tank is 135 gallons planted discus and community.

Yeah that must not be engaging then. Should I just buy a new one then? I had this

Make your life easier. Get a C02 regulator with an electronic solenoid. Hook it to your timer with your lights. This way it turns C02 on with the lights, and turns C02 off with the lights. This will prevent C02 being wasted when your plants are not photosynthesizing.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-AQUATEK-Regulator-Integrated-Solenoid/dp/B009WTXYN0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1520913283&sr=8-8&keywords=aquatek

I bought this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WTXYN0/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1426749149&sr=1&keywords=aquatek+co2+regulator

4 months ago. So far so good. The needle value is touchy, but it is still useable.

I just went to a tank system, its only been set up for about a week. I'm using a paintball tank. This seemed easiest for refills, only $5 at Dick's. This is all the equipment I got for it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M49QDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WTXYN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XKFQCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The regulator came with a bubble counter/check valve which was a nice little surprise. I then bought 10 or 20 feet of tubing from The Home Depot for $5.00. Make sure you get thread tape to seal things up, I initially did not use it and it leaked a lot.

I've been running for a week and so far so good, I have the solenoid plugged in to the same timer as my light.

So you'll want this regulator which will attach to you tank, co2 tubing, I reccommend any of these diffusers, and then if you want you can get a co2 indicator. Other possible buys are a better check valve and bubble counter.

So this one would be good for my set up? I will need to see if my tank is tall enough. Marina Submersible Heater for Aquarium, Mini, 25-watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFELT92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qF21AbAKT0S6H

Yep, I completely get that. The sponge filter and pump to run it would be >=15$ on Amazon (the links are from Amazon), and would be a huge improvement.

This looks like a pretty solid heater, and is adjustable which is far better than a preset one. Don't bother buying one in store; they're always crazy overpriced

Marina Submersible Heater for Aquarium, Mini, 25-watt
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFELT92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gdINybA93N2VN

Also 15$

Don't depend on plants to filter your tank. It's very difficult to have enough plants to be able to use up all of the fish's waste, especially in such a small tank. It would also be very expensive to get the proper light, substrate, and fertilizer for a heavily planted tank light that

Java ferns are great for bettas, but make sure to keep the roots above the substrate. Mine loves sleeping both on the leaves and in the roots of his.

I have this heater for my 2.5gal. The heater is only 6in long, is adjustable, and would definitely fit in your tank, either stuck on the side or resting on the bottom.

I have found that the small circular pad heaters or "slim heaters" don't heat as well. They also aren't adjustable. If you bought the Marina Mini it turns on/off automatically based on the temp you set it at.

Make sure to buy a thermometer and let your heater get to room temp after it arrives. Look up "calibrating aquarium heater," it's basically waiting until it's the same temp as it's surroundings so it can use that as a base temp. Then you put in the filled tank and change the temp by adjusting the knob. Don't turn it up to 80 all at once. Turn the dial a little bit every few hours so Spirit acclimates to the new temp.

I love Spirit's coloring! And he's made such a big bubble nest, so cute.

Oh also FYI bettas don't need aeration. They have a labyrinth organ!

And you need to turn off the light at night (just cause you said "always provided")

If you get sick of hornwort (they can get messy) try getting an anubias.

Props to following the care guide.

I have 3 of these Marina adjustable 25w heaters, in tanks from 2.5 gal to 5 gal, and they are working fine.

Anecdotal, but I have this 25w in my 5 gallon, set as high as it can go, and it barely keeps the water at 75 now that it's almost winter and the ambient room temp is lower. So yeah, I'd go with the 50w.

The cheap $2 glass thermometers work fine, imo.

We ran our 5.5 gal beautifully with one of these but you need an air pump to run it

Aquaneat Air Driven Bio Corner Filter Sponge Fry Shrimp Nano Fish Tank Aquarium 20 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WP442W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZHnhDbKSFVG4D

This is a GREAT option though and id do this if i did it over again. But one thing is i would remove the filter things inside and replace with a piece of filter foam or just poly floss and some ceramic rings or similar media inside. Floss or foam against the intake grates and the rings behind it. I love these cause theyre super strong little guys and are completely silent

Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mKnhDbT1RMMTG

This is a great response thank you! I saved an eheim 50w heater that looks really nice and is very adjustable. I'll have to look more into filters obviously I don't want something that'll push him around so a sponge filter sounds nice.

I saw this filter but need to find some opinions on it for Bettas:
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1477313479&sr=1-5&keywords=aqueon+quietflow

I bought this the other day (10 gal):

https://www.aqueon.com/products/aquarium-starter-kits/ascent-frameless-led-kits

I really love the way it looks. The light is fine for low/medium plants and the filter is fine too although the flow is non-adjustable. I actually swapped it out for this little guy with adjustable flow since I'll have a Betta in here and they don't really like current.

The tank looks really cool in person - way better than the typical aquarium w/ black plastic lid and HOB filter.

I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I
I adjusted the flow down to about 25% of full power but I think I'll bring it up a little bit.

Yeah I returned the filter today, ended up getting this one instead. So far its a lot better; low flow, dead quiet, and my betta has been right up against it without any problems so I think it should be fine.

Actually, I've had the opposite experience... My filters are so quiet I get nervous. Now I keep duckweed just so I can see the surface agitation.

ETA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWV4R8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539876184&sr=8-7&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10

If the links are misbehaving, I use Aqueon Quietflow canister filters.

This is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499894440&sr=1&th=1&psc=1

This is the sponge I put over the return:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CDFU9SW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499894519&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+sponge

I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:

• Tank: Finnex Rimless - This isn't a prefab as much as it is just a blank slate. 7.5 gallons is ample room for a nice little shrimp colony, the tank itself is quite attractive and Finnex is one of my more favored brands for LEDs.
  
  
• Filtration: Depending on your personal preference, I tried/like both the Tom Mini Filter and Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano. They're both quiet, gentle and have few moving parts for easy maintenance and cleaning. It just depends on whether you like submersible or HOB style filters, though if using the Biomaxx I'd suggest wrapping the intake with coarse filter pads or a sponge.
  
  
• Substrate: Eco-Complete - You'll probably be able to grow just about any plant you desire in this stuff, it's dirt cheap compared to other brands and is just as easy to use as plain old normal gravel. One bag should be all you need.
  
  Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!

The sales rep nearly refused to tell me how to shoot him but its not a huge fan of this filter. Now, whether this is football, but I still don't understand why this guy spent a lot better being there in person.

Yes, I'm using a Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano filter and a 50W Aqueon Preset heater. I know they're both way overkill for a bowl this small, but I have the heater on a control circuit of its own to keep from boiling the shrimps if it fails, and the filter is baffled to slow the outflow.

Either that or its not a huge fan of this filter.

http://i.imgur.com/kujrMR6.jpg
2.5 gallon

Fauna: 4x White Cloud Minnow

Flora: Hemianthus Callitrichoides
Cryptocoryne Parva
Marimo Moss
Unknown plant in the back. Trying to find something to fill in the back.

Driftwood: Manzanita

Equipment: Beamswork 12" LED
Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano Filter
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Rhinox 1000 Glass Diffuser
Empire Paintball 24oz. CO2 tank
AquaTek Mini CO2 Regulator
AquaTek CO2 Tubing
DIY Teabag + Activated Carbon filter
Plug Timer

Dosing: 0.5 mL/day Flourish Excel
0.5mL/week Flourish Comprehensive
CO2: 8 hours, Light: 8 hours, offset 30 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2


This one? I hear bad reviews... I ordered one of these https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q

but I wanna order this one too to compare and see... any reviews on other one?

I've been using this nano filter on a ~2 gallon tank and it's been amazing. Not sure if you have a flat side to stick it on, but if so, this filter allows you to adjust the flow. It's great.

Deep Blue Professional ADB88700 Biomaxx Nano Filter for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TRvavb1BCPAVP

There are a couple companies selling essentially the same little filter. They all come out to about this price once you include shipping.

Way too much. Use a deep blue nano filter. More than enough for a shrimp tank. I have 2 zoomed nano canisters and the flow is too much. I use one on my 13 gallon guppy tank and it blows my fry around.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFTI6Q?pc_redir=1409141855&robot_redir=1

This one was recommended in the past on here. It's been working great for my little guy in his 5 gallon tank.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These guys.

> clip light

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

This one?

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_sim_199_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31ctlpwpY4L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=G7H0VG12VZNM01QP4M2J

Is this better?

I use this light on my 3 gal. Don't know your budget, but look under the New & Used and there's an amazon warehouse one for $20. Otherwise, the CFL+desk light the other guy said is the cheapest option.

This seems like a better brand and option: Finnex StingRAY LED Clip Light for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH10HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pVAPBb7W0P7N2

This is what I use on my 5gal shrimp tank and it's great. Got it a long time ago. Deckey White+ Blue Aquarium Fish Tank LED Light Universal Extendable Bracket LED Fish Lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013K2G5OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FWAPBbETAVNC5

This one?

Finnex StingRAY LED Clip Light for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH10HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aCs8Ab0HYKVSW

If you don’t want to order off amazon I don’t know if you have a petsupplyplus by you but mine match priced chewy.com so I got the kit in store for 21 bucks. Also they say you don’t need lights and fertilizers for java ferns and anubias but trust me you might. So many of them have melted away on me now that I add weekly fertilizer and have a light on i have on from 12-7 my plants see to be growing. fertilizer light
Just incase your interested. Your moss ball will thrive without fertilizer just make sure you pick one that isn’t brown.

Stingray LED Cliplight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LMH10HC/ref=sxts_bia_sr_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496087222&sr=1

We've bought two finnex products in the last year.

Neither has lasted through the year

One, the power supply went out after ~9 months, right outside warranty. We had to buy a replacement for $30.

The second we have not figured out what went wrong. We're tried new PS, as they are commonly the problem with these units, and a new remote. Finnex wants us to send it in on our dime after we've already spent $30.00 replacing the power supply and another $10.00 to replace the remote.

I love the idea of an planted tank LED, but Finnex is not the answer.

Sorry, I don’t know what the SE or non-SE are, but here’s a link to the light I’m talking about.

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 48 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMX1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_APHYAb071RXVM

Howdy, I'd recommend

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 48 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMX1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M8Vxzb90TRN23

It's worked well on all of my tanks, and you really gwt what you pay for. It may cost double what you're planning on paying there. But the results are real (depending on how you maintain your tank ofc)

But it (the finnex brand) is really reliable. Here's a youtube of my shabby tank lol https://youtu.be/iD4Vui4fYmo

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMX1C/ref=sr_1_13?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1539629249&sr=1-13&keywords=aquarium+led

See how the times are listed on the remote? Hard to work with. I hate the stupid thing. It is baffling how most people seem to love it and its one of the highest recommended high tech lights I've seen.


I started at 12 hours and worked my way down to where I am. Lots of people on various planted forums advised 12 and lower it if I got algae. I'm honestly at the point were I pretty much ignore aquarium advice online I see now as it varies so wildly. I'm just figuring it out myself with slow changes and note taking. Been misled far too much. I can ask the same question 3 different times and get 3 completely different answers that are in no way compatible.

I have these LEDs

Maybe I will get some fluorescent or halide if that doesn't cut it.

Hey guys I might buy this light but I also saw a couple in the close price range and was wondering... thoughts?

• satelite led plus 115.99 Amazon
  
• finnex planted+ 24/7 123.30 Amazon
  
• finnex planted+ 133.24 Amazon

I had a finnex on my 30 gallon. Just moved to a 55 and put a finnex on that.

They're great. have yet to have one fail. I really like the 24 hr mode (though I don't think your model has that). here's the one I have for my 55:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0HMX1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well depending on a few factors I don't think anyone here would complain about the finnex planted plus. Amazon has the for a good deal. They are more expensive then a fluorescent tube and a hood, but considering replacements cost the finnex is the way to go. I'd like to get one but, being from Canada Amazon.ca likes to gouge the shit out of the Canadian market comparably to the US.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0HMX1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451350699&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=finnex+planted+plus&dpPl=1&dpID=51reARjLBOL&ref=plSrch&th=0

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q I recommend this light, I have 2