Best foam tape according to redditors

Get some 3M industrial strength VHB double sided tape and stick it on. It will never fall off again.

https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAT2WZU

3M VHB tape. On Amazon

Hey John,
I have one solution to your problem. For the ESC: I mounted the ESC in the center and decided to face it in this way (excuse my trackpad drawing), with the esc cords going to their closest motors. I did this because I didnt know the "correct" way, and figured I would rectify it with the naza connection. In one of the pictures in this album you can see the weird servo cord going into the m-ports on the naza. For my esc to motor layout the servo cord with the ground and power goes to m4, m3 gets the far outer signal cord, m2 gets second from furthest out signal cord, and m1 gets the third from outside signal cord. I recommend you look at the picture, because I just confused myself trying to write that out :P
also, right now I am only using velcro to temporarily hold my gopro on, and to secure my battery. For mounting the ESC, naza, and reciever I highly recommend using double sided tape (preferably foam tape cheaper roles can be found). The foam will be plenty secure for holding devices onboard. It is also highly recommended you use some sort of locktite for mounting the arms, both with the top bolts and bottom bolts so they dont vibrate loose (happened to two of my screws). Let me know if you have any other questions or concerns! Always happy to help!

Not that huge a deal.
But, this will work fine. http://www.amazon.com/DiversiTech-6-9718-Foam-Insulation-Black/dp/B00SYQ3VNA
Or find and hvac guy and give him 5 bucks for 10' of it.

We're going to add new thicker adhesive strips to the mounts that will make them work for curved headsets like the CV1 and the Vive. If you still want to buy a VR bundle today, you can just use some 1/8" foam adhesive strips (available from Amazon or your local hardware store).

It's just a really sticky tape to hold the pieces of plastic together. Something like this
or this.

Mechanical fasteners are also known as nails or screws :) Something that will hold the plastic up against the wall that isn't a glue or tape.

Yep! Permanently mounted on the roof. Get the panels up there, position them, mark out where the feet go. Then clip the wires together, clean off those spots nice and clean with alcohol to get off any oils, and tape 'em down.

Here's the tape; https://www.amazon.com/3M-4950-WI15-Scotch-Tape/dp/B00CC14L96

They use this stuff to hold windows onto the faces of skyscrapers. It's legit. The only caveat is to not apply it when it's cold, if it's below 60 or so it doesn't set correctly. But as long as you clean the surface and mount 'em when it's warm out, it works really well. I have 4 panels on top of my promaster, and they've been through 50+ mile an hour crosswinds while going 75+ and a few journeys across the country.

Then route the wires from the panels into the van. Most people go through the roof. There are a lot of ways to do it. The simplest is to just drill a hole, file down the edges, stick the wires through, and then douse it with silicone. Not the neatest but it gets the job done just fine.

Those wires go to the solar controller, which you'll have mounted near your batteries.


As for the rest of things:

I recommend getting a normal minifridge. They work just fine, they're quite efficient normally, and they're way cheaper than anything designed for a van specifically.

Any inverter over 1000w should be fine. I'd recommend just going for a proper, full-sine inverter. GoPower makes a full-sine inverter for 1500w that should suite all your needs with room to grow as you add batteries/panels in the future. They're just more efficient and some electronics don't work right with a modified sine power source.

Then, you can just run a extension cord from the inverter, and a fridge etc off that. Or, take that extension cord and wire up some proper outlets off it (pretty easy, if you have walls solid enough to mount an outlet on).

I did a mixture of ac/dc wiring, and I think it was a pointless complication. A pure sine inverter is already 95% efficient, and if you wire everything off the inverter you can skip a lot of fuses (since the inverter will shut off if there's a short.

Lots of advice! Just what worked for me. I'm a huge nerd about building shit so as I said, feel free to hit me up

It holds pretty strong I got some vhb tape from Amazon 3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting Tape... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0016HM7SE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use a Steelie Car Mount to mount my Galaxy S7 on my 2012 Forester. Had the same gear for my last car and phone and it's not failed me yet. When it comes time to move the mount somewhere, just find a spare plastic membership/rewards card laying around and use it to wedge between the console and the mount. The VHB tape is tough but it'll come off with patience. Also, best to buy a roll of VHB tape from Amazon (the exact roll I bought 2 years ago this Friday and still use) if you expect to move the mount more than once. It's far cheaper than buying the tape kit from Steelie, and you can use it for anything else you need to stick on something.

To get right to the point their amazing the sound quality is defiantly a bump up even though I’ve had them for only a day now. I sound deadened the door inside behind the weather shielding and the door panel as seen in the imgur. The vocals are much clearer, and the bass is much more pronounced than the under seat subwoofers. Keep in mind the OEM HIFI is 2 OHM’s @ 40 W’s on everything so you’ll need twice as much volume to run the 4 OHM 35 W Helix Match’s I bought (which are getting around 20W at this moment). I’ll probably overtax the amp if I put the volume up too loud but…… I’m aiming for a better amp anyway! *The sound deadening was a big factor I would say in addition to the speakers. I’m you want to know more just look through the below:

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First off, the E90Post is amazing for finding info although most of the products they used are now discontinued and cost a fortune so its up to you to find their replacements. Yes, you can spend a grand or two on some system premade from BAVSound or ... but I still can’t justify it. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323

To find what system you have: *It’s a pdf download before you click

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=350502&d=1266451970

Parts so far:

280Pcs SAMOFU Electrical Wire Connectors Kit | Suitable for Marine, Home, Speakers, Various Crimp Terminal Shovel Shapes Butt Connector Kit $11.99 just needed the circle connectors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWX812C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DiversiTech 6-9718 Foam Insulation Tape, 1/8" x 2" x 30' Roll, Black $11.49 I’ve done two cars and still have more than enough left for future endeavors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SYQ3VNA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kilmat 50 mil 50 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening $57.99 (25% Coverage before diminishing returns so after two cars I still have left overs)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751G6TMV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exact Fit Front Speaker Adapter Spacer Rings For BMW Vehicles - SAK076_4-1 Pair $15.48

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M755KAD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helix Match MS 42C Universal 4" component speaker system $99 each so for one pairs (2 speakers 2 tweeters and 2 crossovers) $107 with tax Thanks New Jersey ☹! I had to trim the twitter to fit and needed an adapter to make the 4 point to a 3 point mount.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PCLVNJO/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM wiring so I can revert at any time $11.60 for 4 (2 Pols) and $27.84 for 8 contacts.

BMW Universal Pin Terminal Uncoded (2 Pol) - Genuine BMW 61138373583

BMW Pin-Contact (075mm) - Genuine BMW 61130006664

$11.49 Foam Tape + $57.99 Sound deadening = $69.48. I’ve had this for years and used them for multiple projects so I’m not sure whether to include them. *I’m going to exclude them for now

Spending so far: $107 speakers + 15.48 Adapter + $11.99 Connectors + $39.44 OEM Wiring for front and rear =$173.91 with multiple parts left over for future projects and the rear

________________________________________________________________

Overall my plan is:

Front Component Speakers: Helix Match MS42C (Not buying the BMW specific kit for $100 to 150 more because I can deal with making a few custom things or finding them)

Rear Component Speakers: Helix Match MS42C (I have OCD so I’m just doing this because… Otherwise I coaxial full range with similar specs would have been a lot better) * I still need to either buy another 4 to 3 mount adapter and custom make a tweeter holder. The BMW tweeter is one piece.

Both Under seat Subs: I plan to just scavenge for some L7 subwoofers since they are more than power for most needs. The HIFI is a 40W on 2OHMs and the TOP HIFI L7 is 70W at 4 OHMs. They run about $80-100 for the pair on ebay instead of the Earthquakes at $200 a pair.

_________________________________________________________________

The speakers I bought can run constantly at 35 Watts RMS without an Issue at 4 OHMs and 105 Watts at 4 OHM for short bursts.

So, from research on the forums I’m good with most amps and won’t damage the alternator due to overtaxing it for power since I’m not trying to do some crazy setup.

In addition the BMW Professional from the Hifi isn’t the best but apparently has a pretty clean signal so a DSP isn’t really need although a audiophile will say so. *AMP and speakers will make a world of difference, go with a DSP if you really want insanity like filtering all the minerals out of your water to wash your car.

_________________________________________________________________

Helix Match MS 42C Universal 4" component speaker system $99 for a pair

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PCLVNJO/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AMP I’m between the Rockford Fosgate R600X5 and the Pioneer GM DX975 since they’ll both fit in the little crevice where the normal amp sits when removed. $200-250 on amazon or scavenging deals. I need 35 RMS @ 4OHM x 4 so 140 RMS Min @ 4 OHM for speakers and 70 W @ 8 OHMs x 2 so 140 W at 8 OHMs or 240 W @ 4 OHMs

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMDX975/Pioneer-GM-DX975.html

4-gauge amplifier power wiring kit $70 I might go cheaper but It’s a critical part so I’d rather not burn my car down

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4.html

BMW E90/F10/F20/F30 Hi Fi AMP Connector Harness $60 to change the stock HIFI amp to a 5 channel or 6 channel *I’m go 5 channel, the 6 channels are way too expensive and rare

(4 channels for speakers and 1 channel for the subs under the seats to make an 8 OHM) *Lower OHMs usually results in worse sound quality. *A 4 OHM amp can run an 8 OHM without a problem just at half the capacity.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-F10-F20-F30-Hi-Fi-AMP-Connector-Harness/163830179229?hash=item26250a259d:g:OTIAAOSwgQ9V4UKR

Future Spending $107 Speakers + $250 AMP + $70 wiring + $60 adapter = $487

Spending so far: $107 speakers + 15.48 Adapter + $11.99 Connectors + $39.44 OEM Wiring for front and rear =$173.91 with multiple parts left over for future projects and the rear

In total when fully finished this should come out to $660.91 or a little more but I’m left with many parts for future endeavors.

*That's for Speakers, AMP, Sound Deadening, mounts and everything. The bimmertech amp is $900 alone I understanding tuning they've done but dam.

Yes, it can be bent and attached to the back of a 60" TV -- but you will want to use something other than the tape that comes with it. It will fall off after a few weeks, if not days.

I had a roll of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016HM7SE/ , used around 1~ foot (cut into pieces) and it has stayed on the back of my tv for around 2 years now.

Highly recommend. I've been using this clear variant https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7EWRO/ for all of my hue mounting needs and have been very satisfied. It comes in various widths as well, but this one is perfect for light strips.

Posted to a diff user but here:

Here's a pro tip I can share.

My gf has a bunch of these and I kept knocking them over since they are on the same stand as our key holder.

HitLights Heavy Duty Double Sided Foam Mounting Tape, 32 Feet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI7IBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WKWqhm3aTpXGs

Buy that. I initially bought them to mount LED strips. They are AMAZING and last forever.

They don't peel off paint and stick like crazy even tho if u touch the strip ud think it wouldn't do anything. Used it for LED strips, taping cardboard to fill gaps in a window for an internal AC unit, and lastly and most relevant took tiny strips and put them on the bottom of their feet. Now they are super sturdy and the cat can't even knock em over.

TL;DR: buy this (whatever size) and stick em to the bottom of their feet.

HitLights Heavy Duty Double Sided Foam Mounting Tape, 32 Feet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI7IBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WKWqhm3aTpXGs

3M 4910 VHB tape or 4905, but 4910 is thicker and will likely work better.

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=87891&postcount=24

For me, the soft velcro wasn't resilient enough and the rattle has returned. I'm going to take another crack at it with some foam tape I had previously bought to fix the rear hatch rattle I also had.

Hey I'm in a similar situation. In the process of setting up my van, need to order solar stuff today or tomorrow and will figure out composting toilet in the next couple of weeks.

I'm probably just gonna order all my solar stuff off renogy cuz that is the only one I hear/read about a lot.

You won't be able to run a heater unless you get several hundred watts of panels and several hundred 12V Ah of batteries. Having a fridge will already tax your system enough without throwing in a heater.

I think what I'm gonna be getting is two 100W panels, MC4 branch connectors to connect them in parallel since I have two panels, 10ft MC4 cables, I already have my 20A MPPT Charge Controller, tray cables to connect charge controller to battery, 100Ah AGM battery probably, I guess you need inverter cables between the battery and inverter, and then an inverter to power your electronics. I think somewhere in there you are maybe also supposed to have a fuse. Oh and I gotta get two sets up mountain brackets and use 3M VHB tape (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7H5W8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn) to mount the panels on the roof without drilling.

As far as composting toilet goes, Nature's Head is a popular one, but they cost basically $1000. I'm gonna try to build my own for probably a tenth that price. Haven't figured out exactly how I'll do it though.

For keeping light out/in the van, I got reflectix and some thick black fabric. I'm gonna I guess glue those together and attach some magnets on the sides somehow and they'll just stick to the metal of the van around the window.

Thanks! iPhoneX... taillight is attached via 3M VHB double-sided tape - this stuff is amazing! Same stuff GoPro uses for their sticky mounts if that tells you anything.

Oh I thought those are NeonFlex lights. Did you use electrical tape for the battery? That's going to rattle and fall off. I had similar set up and used this. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PKI7IBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X1Y7I2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since I am not sure exactly what tape you have I cannot say if you should use it. The tape that is generally suggested, and what is used by reputable vendors is 3M VHB Tape It is #5952 Heavy Duty Mounting Tape -Scotch Brand. The VHB stands for Very High Bond.

You can go ahead and use the tape that you have at hand, just make sure that the windshield is clean and dry, and that it is warmed up by the heater. Press and hold the bracket for a few moments and then leave it alone for at least an hour before you attach the dashcam. It needs time to 'cure'.

If you want to keep some 3M VHB tape at home to be used for other projects, you can find lots of it on Amazon, here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAT2WZU/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1493975056&sr=8-48&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape

I used this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOEW25S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_5fAUAbJQXDW2J
For the bends and the begining and end of the strip, it is prety much permanent so just use a small piece 1/4 inch or less where you want to anchor the strip. The trick is to clean the surface with some isopropyl, stick it and hold strong preasure for a couple of minutes. So far it seems inpervious to heat, humidity and has a strong hold (I used it on a courtain top box with several bends and 4, 90º angles about a year ago) you will use just a litle bit of the tape but it is verry handy around the house anyway.

Foam insulation tape would work better.

Why are you worried about the icemaker water line freezing - is it outside or something?

DoubleSided tape will stay there. Just clean it with Alcohol. I used the 3M grey with red plastic on it. It's the same tape that holds on car emblems and if it can take that abuse, it will hold on the dot matrix. :)

https://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Heavy-Double-Sided-Mounting/dp/B00PKI7IBG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=94PW5YUCOHMT&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape&qid=1555861337&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+double%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

3M VHB (Very High Bond) Tape.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7DV4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

cut to form and make sure to clean surfaces with alcohol before applying. Strong hold but can also be easily removed without residue by pulling like those 3m hook strips.

I would deal with it by buying a second hand replacement fender. Shouldn't cost too much.

If you truly don't care what it looks like, go to home depot, or lowes and get a small sheet of aluminum and some shears. A piece large enough to cover he gash.

Order this tape:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC14L96/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Cut the aluminum to roughly the size you need to cover the gash. Feel free to beat on it with a hammer and sorta form it to your car.

Lift up your shaped piece and install that tape. Line it up and stick it down. That take is shocking how well it sticks.

copied from my earlier comment

Like this.


The two parts are held together with VHB tape. More than strong enough.

The clips is a Nite Ize universal smartphone clip which comes with a strip of VHB.

The rest is pretty obvious.

EDIT: I bought a clear VHB, for other uses. For this, I think a softer, foam core VHB might work better. The edges aren't flat, and don't rest flat against each other. It still works tho.

I have a roll of this Tyvek tape and it seems no different than the 3M red tape. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Construction-Seaming-Tape-8087/dp/B00A7I5IP2/

I use Double Sided Foam Tape. It's designed to hold stuff like mirrors on tiles so it's super strong and it's easy enough to remove from minis since all you need to do is slip a knife into the foam bit then roll off the remaining tape from the mini contact point. I usually attach it to whatever I'm going to hold on to when I paint the mini..normally a cork bung.

For smaller bits or for things that have 2 sides like a cape I use Blu-Tak (mounting putty in the USA). Forms a decent hold but lets you remove it and remount in seconds.

I've got some of this sitting around: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5PC1L/

Would do the trick.

Allow me to introduce you to 3M VHB tape

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Black/dp/B0016HM7SE

We use this stuff to hold aluminum panels to the sides of buildings! For when you REALLY want something to stay put!

Lasko ceramic heater

if you want to do some basic weather stripping these work well

I don't know if you can fit these in the budget but my room was freezing before but after using the heater and sealing the small cracks that was letting cold seep in through I no longer get cold in my room.

I think you might have 2 options, depending on how the door is attached to the track. You could try to find a new set of wheels that typically attach to the top of the door, maybe some rubber ones instead of hard plastic or metal, not sure what you have.

Otherwise you had a great plan. It might be very difficult to install after the fact, but I did line one track with something like in the amazon link below, when the wall was open to make it softer, seemed to work ok, but have no long term testing (sold the house).

You might need a diff size:
http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-2253-Density/dp/B00005202X

TapeCase 0.5 in width x 15 ft Length, Converted from 3M VHB
$14.02 Each, used 3 rolls for $42.06
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7H56E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Roxul Rockboard 60, Mineral Wool Board 2" - Case of 6
$52 - Ended up using 4 of 6 boards
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FKNVTQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Sonic Barrier 1" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24"
$13.25 - Used it all

Total: $112 (If you have amazon prime and get them all with free shipping)

https://smile.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00HD29S42?sa-no-redirect=1 is great. You could probably use it to attach something to attach the grommets to.

Haha well you guys are all right. Not a 3m rep, but I have to admire there vast world of adhesive patents. Just like u/Catsilo said though VHB tape is intense. 3m markets it as an alternative to welding for some applications. Here is an alright deal on some

I would buy some 3M VHB mounting tape. The stuff rated for exterior use. Use that to reapply the brackets. Make sure to prep the areas with rubbing alcohol for proper adhesion. Make sure to buy the width that fits your needs the best:
3M-Scotch-4910-VHB-Tape/dp/B00I4E4NE8
Amazon or similar to purchase. Good luck.

Just use VHB tape on the fiberglass on top. No holes needed. It'll hold just fine. It's how most people install panels on metal roofs, as long as you clean the surface thoroughly it'll be cool.

Mine are mounted with this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CC14L96

Renogy panels, using their little mounting brackets. It comes out to about 16 square inches of tape per panel (4 inches per bracket). Each INCH of tape is rated for 140 pounds. Seriously. They use this shit to hold windows on to skyscrapers. I stuck an inch on a washer with an eyebolt onto some scrap metal, and couldn't deadlift it off with a proper handle.

I wasn't sure I was going to trust it, but then I put the first panel on and tried my damnedest to tear it back off, and couldn't. I was putting at least a few hundred pounds of tension on it, which is way more than the wind ever will at any speed, and it didn't twitch. This shit works, is what I'm saying. I trust it completely.

I'd at least buy it and give it a shot if I were you. If it doesn't seem solid (...just try and rip it off. the fiberglass will give out before the tape does, and the fiberglass is plenty strong) then add some screws and dicor, or put some fiberglass mat and epoxy over the feet of the brackets

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7DV4E/

3M command-strips are kind of expensive though. They're essentially just cut-pieces of 3M VHB tapes. You can buy it in bulk by the roll. And you should do that since it's great to have around and I keep finding uses for it.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Mounting-4910-Clear/dp/B00HD29S42/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1427221969&sr=8-5&keywords=vhb+tape

In servers I use it to hold 2.5" HDD/SSDs to the chassis.

And put some really sticky VHB tape on the grippers.

Hey Maalareve, we are the manufacturer for this Stock. We have started to add a small pieces of foam tape so customers can place them within the controller cup for a tighter fit and also protecting the controller.

​

This is the foam we use. :

https://www.amazon.com/Pres-P8225RL00-50XOH-Neoprene-Foam-Black/dp/B01G382DX4/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=foam+tape&qid=1563994654&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Needle probe

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP-08S-Wireless-Thermometer-Grilling/dp/B014DAVHSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538423301&sr=8-2-fkmr3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=needle+probe+remote+thermometer

Weatherstrip Foam Tape (any kind that is ok for marine use is ok in water)

https://www.amazon.com/Gourd-Elasticity-Adhesive-All-Climate-Weatherstrip/dp/B079NM8758/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538423423&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=weatherstrip+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=51TZsf6d9SL&ref=plSrch

VacMaster Bulk Bags (split the order with a friend, haha!)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AZ7SPBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_43_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1538423597&sr=8-43&keywords=vacuum+sealer+bags+bulk&dpPl=1&dpID=41naTidMejL&ref=plSrch

Here is the light strip

Here is the double sided adhesive I used since the 3M included with the light strip isn't too great.

Amazon Link to different sizes of 5952 VHB

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Tape-5952-width-length/dp/B01EOEW25S/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1484832179&sr=1-1&keywords=1-5-5952

Haven't had a problem with either of the A119 mounts here in Florida (replaced a windshield one time), although I do mount it on the tint strip to conceal the gray color of the mount. You can also try this 3M VHB that I'm using for other things on my windshield.

Double Sided Tape, HitLights... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI7IBG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’ve also used even stronger stuff than this, but it’s not necessary and just a bigger pain to get off. Many aftermarket parts come with the tape I have linked and have never heard of anyone having an issue.

I would try some heavy duty mounting tape like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Mounting-width-length/dp/B007Y7H56E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

​

Though you may want to try your luck at a hardware store. Looks like amazon has a bunch of re-rolled 3M tape and it's not as good.

the stuff i used was like [THIS] (https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAT2WZU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1494126814&sr=1-3&keywords=double+sided+industrial+tape) except mine was black. I lucked out my work had a bunch of it & just gave me about 5' which was way more than enough

I’ve used this for other projects and it’s seriously strong.
I wouldn’t use use if for tape though. It’s too permanent.


Double Sided Tape, HitLights Heavy Duty Mounting Tape 3M VHB Waterproof Foam Tape, 32ft Length, 10mm Width for LED Strip Lights, Home Decor, Office Decor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI7IBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sA-CDbRCY1Q8Q

I use these and I’m really happy with them.


Command Outdoor Light Clips, Clear, 20 clips, 24 strips (AW017-20NA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZM1799/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8C-CDbX9ZNDAY

For mine I used one of these screens, just connected with a right angle, thin HDMI cable running out the back of the computer into the graphics card. The HDMI powers it. I made a bezel for it out of an old DVD case. I made the mount for it out of an old 2.5" HDD bracket screwed onto the 2.5" SSD mount that came with the case. I'm using HWInfo for monitoring and using a rainmeter skin called SimplePerfMeters

I couldn't figure out a good way to attach it directly to the 2.5" drive holder, which is why I used two screwed together to give me a nice surface to attach it with double sided tape (this stuff)

I haver never personally tasted them but here you go :

• http://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B007OXK330
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/3M-Double-Urethane-4008-Off-White/dp/B000BL0SPK