(Part 2) Best glass care products according to redditors

I do something similar, here is my process:

1. Score glass with http://www.amazon.com/Generation-Green-g2-Bottle-Cutter/dp/B004ZRV3AU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344673890&sr=8-1&keywords=wine+bottle+cutter
   
   
2. Heat score mark with tea candle.
   
3. Use very cold tap water to cool down, wipe excess water off with paper towel (the towel will have tiny shards of glass so don't use a towel you will use again).
   
4. Repeat until the glass breaks all the way. If you use very cold water it will break clean about 90% of the time, sometimes glass just does what it wants.
   
5. I take the glass and attach it to a drill. I use a thick strip of cardboard across a buffing back-plate. A hole through the center of the cardboard allows you to use the screw that normally attaches the buffing pad.
   
6. I wrap the cardboard around the sides of the glass and use a lot of rubber bands to keep it in place. Sounds flimsy, but I've never had the cardboard break on me, just keep it dry.
   
7. Buy some diamond sanding pads http://www.amazon.com/3M-6002J-Diamond-Hand-Pads/dp/B004R4KUMI/ref=pd_sim_hi_1 put it in a waterproof plastic container with a low edge.
   
8. Wet down the sanding pad with some water, glove up a hand with a disposable glove, hold the glass in place and grind until you have a perfectly flat surface. Now angle to create a smooth outer edge. Prop the pad up on something in the container and use a corner to grind the inner edge.
   
9. Polish with Cerium Oxide http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Cerium-Oxide-One-Pound/dp/B000KZWDTG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344674583&sr=8-1&keywords=cerium+oxide on a wet sponge.
   
   I started looking at videos like the ones linked on this page and ended up at this process. The tea candle and water method works pretty great, the wet grinding is better as there is no glass dust, the cerium oxide removes all the frosting and makes the glass look very clear.
   
   I hope this helps you get started if you have the desire.
   
   http://imgur.com/TcRgu,bkwEd
   http://imgur.com/TcRgu,bkwEd#1
   http://imgur.com/B3XDy
   
   Sorry I don't have better examples, this is all I have lying around. The good ones I given to friends and family.

Does your buddy have a birthday coming up?

WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.

Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:

CART

• WEN 7300 Utility Cart
  
• Tornado Hooks of Various Sizes
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Basic Wood Screws
  
  
  PRODUCTS
  
  
• CG Best Selling Products Kit
  
• CG Honey Dew Snow Foam
  
• CG Butter Wet Wax
  
• CG Diablo Wheel Gel
  
• CG V7 Hybrid Quick Detailer
  
• CG Jet Seal
  
• CG VRP Dressing
  
• CG Bug and Tar Remover
  
• CG Glossworkx Glaze
  
• CarPro Iron X
  
• Shine Society Glass Cleaner
  
• Black Mamba Black Gloves
  
• Zwipes Waffle Weave Towel
  
• 50 Pack of Microfiber Towels
  
• Detailers Brush
  
• Wheel Brush
  
• Viking Wheel Brush
  
  EQUIPMENT
  
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Sun Joe Pressure Washer Extension Cord
  
• MATCC Snow Foamer
  
• Extension Cord 50ft
  
• TORQ Orbital Polisher
  
  
  

Is this it?: https://www.amazon.com/Adams-Glass-Sealant-4oz-Concentrated/dp/B00JNIYDR6/
How long does 4oz last?

Like....these?

http://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-5077368-Glass-Cleaner-Anti-Fog/dp/B000AMOEM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395865088&sr=8-1&keywords=rain-x+wipes

I Windexed

I scoured

I rinsed

And repeated


For hours

And hours

I elbow greased

I sweated and cowered.

Then I found this and my water spots were gone on the car and the shower doors....

https://smile.amazon.com/Driven-Extreme-Glass-Cleaner-Bottle/dp/B0021YZER2?keywords=acid+gel+glass+cleaner&qid=1539700378&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2

I was in your exact spot two weeks ago.

I tried literally everything in this thread except for the razor blade. We found this on amazon: Driven Extreme Duty Glass Cleaner, 16 oz Bottle, and I was skeptical, but it totally worked. It required two applications with the rough side of a sponge (your doors are a little worse than mine, so maybe more?).

It’s expensive, but it does work. Don’t forget to wear gloves.

The products I tried:

• Vinegar by itself
  
  
• Vinegar and dawn soap
  
  
• Hot vinegar and dawn soap
  
  
• Scrubbing bubbles
  
  
• Bar Keeper’s Friend
  
  
• CLR bathroom cleaner
  
  
• Lime away bathroom cleaner
  
  
• The Best Glass Cleaner
  
  
• Glass cooktop cleaner
  
  
• Generic and Mr. Clean melamine sponges with each of the above products and by itself
  
  Edit to include products I’ve tried.

Neverwet

For the exterior, here is a copy and paste of a previous post of mine. Everyone may give you slightly different advice as there are many valid ways to do this. This routine has worked very well for me for many years.

• Clean well with soap and water and a good microfiber cloth. (removes all dirt and oil build up.)
  
• Dry it with another cloth. I like a big cotton towel.
  
• Clean with a good oxalic acid based cleaner such as Star Bright hull cleaner, or The works tub and tile cleaner(NOT THE TOILET CLEANER) Applying with a one gallon pump up sprayer works great for me. Rinse well. This removes any rust stains.
  
• Dry again.
  
• Buff with an oxidation remover. I like this one. I apply with a 10 inch random orbital buffer and application bonnet, and remove while still slightly wet with the same buffer and a wool bonnet. In heavily oxidized areas you may need to do this more than once. If you do not have oxidation, feel free to skip this step.
  
• Next buff again with a cleaner wax. I like this one same process as above, but let it dry to a haze before removing.
  
• This will leave you with a clean hull and a nice shine, if you want an even deeper shine, make one more buffing pass with a nice marine wax. I like this one
  
  It sounds like a lot of work, but once I got the process down, I found I could do all of these steps on a entire 23' boat in less than 4 hours, and it leaves it looking like new.
  
  Edit: I forgot to mention, for the outside of the windows I like this stuff. It cleans as well as a normal glass cleaner, and causes any water that hits the windshield to bead up and run off. This is a nice bonus for many boats as they often do not have windshield wipers.

Aquapel is better, imo. Works at least as well and a treatment lasts months instead of weeks.

1. What I advise you to do the following:
   
   1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
      
   2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done: https://i.imgur.com/v3Lpn9g.jpg
      
2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
   
   1. ONR Solution
      
   2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
      
   3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
      
   4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
      
   5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
      
   6. Grit Guard (2x)
      
   7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
      
   8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
      
   9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
      
3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!

If it doesn't have to look good you could use an epoxy or rubber cement to fill the chip or coat the offending edges of the chip.

If you don't mind spending 20 on something that isn't a dub, try this:
http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-95141-Invisible-Windshield-Repair/dp/B001T9CG94

Check out [CarPro CeriGlass] (http://www.amazon.com/CarPro-CP-126-Ceriglass-Kit/dp/B006LO3B3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464421508&sr=8-1&keywords=carpro+ceriglass) or since you have a polisher get the proper glass polishing pads and use the [polish] (http://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Ceriglass-Glass-Polish-150/dp/B006LO118O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464421520&sr=8-2&keywords=carpro+ceriglass)

Did some research on it and you can make things quite a bit better with a few things:

• Glass Polish
  
  
• Glass Polishing Pad
  
  
• DA Polisher
  
  There isn't much you can do to mess it up unless you use the wrong stuff.
  
  For the polish, I found that Griot's Garage Glass Polishes are reviewed very highly and are meant to remove hairline scratches, very small pits, water spots, etc. You can buy the set of Fine Glass and Regular Glass polish, or you can just try the fine glass polish, but you need to finish whatever you do with the fine glass polish.
  
  For the polishing pads, I found these polishing pads which are also made by Griot's garage, and are also highly rated. The ones I linked are for 6" DA polishers, but are also available in 5" and 4".
  
  If you don't already have a DA polisher, you absolutely need to have one for this, you can't do it by hand. A few are recommended in various links in the sidebar, but Harbor Freight has a variable speed one that I've used for around $60 that you could also get.
  
  From your pictures, I can't tell exactly how bad these pits are, but if they're just in the surface, you should be able to remove them with a little of work. I've never done this for myself, so I can't say exactly how well it works, but from what I've read, it works. And it's cheaper to try this and hope it works than replace your entire windshield.

I'd get something on Amazon for that, makes it really easy. something like this

theres special rayon pads for this lookup ceriglass polish and glass polish pad.

http://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Ceriglass-Glass-Polish-150/dp/B006LO118O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462203797&sr=8-2&keywords=ceriglass


http://www.autopia-carcare.com/glass-scratch-pad.html#.Vyd2Y_krK70

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMOEM8/ref=rcxsubs_mys2_product_title

Thanks for the response, I'll give those a try. Didn't really consider a dirty windshield as being the cause. It's probably a bit dirty and I've been using this Rain-X Cleaner/Repellent 2-in-1 spray stuff on the windshield, I wonder if it leaves behind any sort of residue.

I was thinking something like this https://www.amazon.com/Kole-Imports-GM-281-2-Windshield-Cleaner/dp/B00KB5G0EO but instead of a square a triangle to get the very small corners clean, so far havent found anything.

http://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-5077368-Glass-Cleaner-Anti-Fog/dp/B000AMOEM8

Looks like a vape film. You can remove it with a blow torch but the safest way is to use a glass compound sth like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G8800-Perfect-Clarity-Glass/dp/B06XDFRZ81

try this, its a long shot, but it's pretty cheap and available at any auto parts store.
http://www.amazon.com/Touch-GS8-Auto-Glass-Stripper/dp/B000COBXFU

I use No Touch Auto Glass Stripper and have had good success with it especially when it came to removing products like Aquapel and Rain-X. I don't know of any local stores still carrying them, I can't even remember where I bought as I've had the bottle for almost a decade and still use it once in a while.

This It is what we used at Safelite in the warehouse when we accidentally scratched a windshield.

Rust-Oleum 287337 Neverwet Rain Repellent 11 Oz

Price: $13.95

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-287337-Neverwet-Rain-Repellent/dp/B01ECCXQSE

This works, but only temporarily. There are better and cheap coatings available like rain-x or this very cheap one.

Hello
Can I use a glass fiber filler like this?

U-Pol Products 0700 FIBRAL Glass Fiber Filler - 3 Liter by U-Pol https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00NOIJW7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jaoKBbXFSK39K

I've I just put this only on the channel zone is it enough?

Not sure if you have a home bar, but those labels plus this stuff would make for a very fun surface.

I love Adam's glass sealant.

https://www.amazon.com/Adams-Glass-Sealant-4oz-Concentrated/dp/B00JNIYDR6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2RCCCZ27G8QVB&keywords=adam%27s+glass+sealant&qid=1555622938&s=gateway&sprefix=Adam%27s+gl&sr=8-3

If you can get autoglym fast glass it will take off over spray wax and polish and leave it gleaming and streak free.


https://www.amazon.com/Autoglym-AG-185003-Fast-Glass/dp/B0011569SK

If you mean you can get it clean and clear, but it just gets dirty quickly... only advice would be to try not to park it under trees. If you mean you can't get it clear in the first place, it's probably a thin film of wax or whatever product you're using on your car. I would try a dedicated glass cleaner. e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Glym-Fast-Glass-500ml/dp/B0011569SK

​

If that doesn't work, use something more heavy duty like wax remover/degreaser. Remember to clean the inside surface too.

As u/eneka said, you probably need to polish the glass. Here's what I recommend.

• First try cleaning the class with a razor blade to remove most of the contaminants.
  
  
• Next, use some clay and lube to remove more contaminants.
  
  
• Finally, if the first two steps haven't made any progress, use a glass polish pad and some glass polisher
  
  Here is a video that explains these steps in more detail.
  
  Also, if you could take some pictures that would help us help you better :)

https://www.amazon.com/ARISTOCRAT-2016-LIQUID-GLASS-KIT/dp/B003KPEPAS

Epoxy is an excellent bonding agent for printed parts, because epoxy is a thermosetting plastic just like the ABS or PLA or PETG you print with. In this case, though, you're using it as a finish.

Most epoxies are two parts. A resin and a catalyst. They're usually formulated in equal parts, so you carefully pour matching amounts of both fluids into a mixing container. For small amounts like this, fashion a small disposable tinfoil tray and use a toothpick or spare 3mm filament scrap as a stirring rod. Mix well, and then use the mixture quickly before it begins to set. Some epoxies have a working time of 1~5 minutes, some take longer before they harden.

Is there an online vendor you trust for it? The Amazon reviews are peppered with claims of rip-offs

If the seal is still airtight its salvageable. Slather some Clear Epoxy on or some of this. Just make sure it gets into the cracks but not into the inside of the tube.Good luck