Best guitar amplifier accessories according to redditors

From What I can see:

Boss RC-300 Loop Station (The red board in the front) - ~$600 with power supply and cables


BOSS FS-6 Dual Foot Switch (Silver Pedal closer to her) - ~$70 With Power supply and cable

Sennheiser E835 Dynamic Cardioid Vocal Microphone - ~$100 with cable

So in total ~$770 in pure hardware. Additional costs would be from the software she's using, pre-amp for the microphone, probably an amplifier or speakers to be able to hear it as she's playing, etc.

Essentially, if you want to start doing live loops like her you would be able to buy the same hardware (You could skip on the foot switch) but probably a different brands. Those loop pedals always tend to be expensive though.

Honestly the cheapest, simplest but extremely limited way to try out loops like this is just using Audacity. You can record loop by loop and then play it back indefinitely.

ABY pedal. I've got this one to do just what you're asking - http://www.amazon.com/Fender-023-4506-000-Electric-Amplifier-Footswitch/dp/B00HQXUH5W

There are much cheaper options available if you look.

You may also consider:

• XBox Adaptive controller (https://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/controllers/xbox-adaptive-controller) with a pedal attached via 3.5mm (https://www.amazon.com/StealthSwitch-FS-2-Foot-Pedal-Footswitch/dp/B00QJCAZ1M); plus, co-pilot on XBox (https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/copilot) to be able to use a normal controller with a pedal. // Maybe it's possible to connect another controller to the adaptive one?
  
• Pro or elite controllers with back paddles.
  
• Button remapping via an app, should be available on any platform.

Have that same amp. Swap out the reverb tank for this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BGXW50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Costs like $20, is as easy as unplugging a pair of RCA cables, and will drastically improve the quality of the reverb. By far the cheapest, easiest, and most effective modification I've ever made to any of my gear.

I'm in the same boat as you in that I know nothing about pedals. I have the same amp as you though and just realized today that you can buy one of these footswitches to allow you to switch between presets on your amp without fiddling the dials. I had this amp for a year before realizing what the "FTSW" was for...
Fender Footswitch

If you want a wah pedal, then yeah you can just connect it between the output of your guitar and the input to your amp. You might need to buy the cable separately.

These will do the job. Just put the pointy bits in the holes.

First things first, if it were me I would just buy it right off the bat. That said...

1. Reverb tank should be simple pimple. Unless it's some odd setup(which I doubt it is), it would usually be a RCA jack type plug and play. Accutronics has always been my favorite replacement reverb tanks.
   
   
2. Tubes wouldn't be expensive to mess with if you wanted to try others out. I would see what ones they had in there and then just order a couple different brands to see what sounds best to you. A couple [JJ preamp tubes] (https://www.amazon.com/JJ-Electronics-T-12AX7-S-JJ-Electric-Amplifier/dp/B0002M728Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541011028&sr=8-1&keywords=jj+12ax7) and [a matched set of EL84 JJ power tubes] (https://www.amazon.com/JJ-Electronics-Amplifier-Tube-T-EL84-JJ-MP/dp/B003FO89CE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541010458&sr=8-1&keywords=jj+el84+matched+pair) are really cheap and tend to be built well from the years I've been buying them for. I'm thinking only the first two preamp tubes would have anything to do with the tone section as the third one (furthest small tube to the left when looking at the back) could just be the phase inverter and also driving the reverb. I'd have to loom through a schematic first to actually know for sure, though.
   
   
3. Price would be good to me as it's half off new and I'm a cheap bastard that can attempt to fix things if I need to. If it sounds good to you in just replacing a reverb tank and trying out different tubes, tear it up.
   
   I had no idea of these cheap guys being around and may end up getting the little 5w version for fun around home. How cool.

Grab yourself an ABY Box like this one This one Two leads from the pedal, one to the Normal and One to Top Boost. This way you can switch between or have them both on at the same time. I do Exactly this with my AC30CC2.

The "footswitch" input on the back is for the Vox VFS2A footswitch. This Allows you to turn your Reverb and tremolo on and off.

Consider an amp stand. Easier access for you, and it gets the low frequencies off the floor, which is currently acting like a giant wooden amplifier on your neighbors' ceilings and walls.

Edit: Here's one!

Gator Frameworks Guitar Combo Amp Stand (GFW-GTR-AMP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWRDSVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VevjDbFFY196Q

I bought some of these a while back to put on my Pioneer PL-518. Not sure if they will fit on your SL-D2, but if no one else offers a solution I'd give them a try.

you mean a [JJ] (http://www.amazon.com/JJ-Electronics-T-12AX7-S-JJ-Electric-Amplifier/dp/B0002M728Y) for his vajayjay

FTFY :-)

These look to be the recommended upgrades https://www.amazon.com/Electro-Harmonix-12AX7EH-Preamp-Vacuum-Single/dp/B0002M72JS/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1484263520&sr=1-1&keywords=EH+12AX7

Have a quick google, lots of info on the phono stage and which upgrades sound best.

So full disclosure I did the whole sketch from memory and didn't actually look up an amp stand, drew what I thought they looked like but apparently they don't make them with the legs facing forward like that. I was hoping to have space to easily tuck away my pedals under the amp when I'm not using them.

That being said I found this on amazon that gives me something close to it and it has the bonus of having an optional mic arm attachment for recording. I wish it elevated the amp a bit higher off the ground though.

I had one of these previously and it got the job done.

Both stands should definitely hold your 2x12, I used a Fender Twin from the 70's (those were heavy as hell) on it the one I had before and the there are pics of the first one with a Twin on it.

I advise you to change the tubes in case you've bought a used AC15C1: as example JJ Tube Upgrade Kit For VOX AC15C1 Amps EL84 ECC83S ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVNIIVS ) or any other alternative tubes. Sound will improve dramatically, especially on Top Boost channel.

Really nice, man. Try these guys on the bottom in each corner. I swear by them.

Your guitar plugs into a box, that acts as a splitter, and runs an input to each amp.
Something like this.

I was planning to look into this, but I fell at the first hurdle which is that you need the most expensive version of BiasFx to use midi control. And right now I cant justify spending the extra money on the upgrade.

I was planing to build my own midi controller as I don't need something as big as the FCB1010, and I prefer these style foot switches

Super easy. Remove some screws, unplug the leads, screw in the new unit, plug in the leads. I searched around and found that the tank is commonly known to be cheaply sourced and prone to being weak sauce. Prevailing scuttlebutt was that this one was a marked improvement. For that cost, I figured what the hay, give it a shot. Totally worth it and then some. I can hear the reverb more clearly across the volume range as well as reverb setting levels. Check out Amplifiedparts.com directly if you want to find one for your model. They've got tons of goodness.

I didn't know one existed either, but Google is your friend:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008FJXH0S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/152-7119786-7566052?ie=UTF8&qid=1472727893&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=double+amp+stand&dpPl=1&dpID=41bquMPeeIL&ref=plSrch

This is my opinion, so take it as just that:

Are they hard to replace. No. Hell no. At least with a common lightbulb, there's screwing. Pull out. Push in. That's it.

AC15 particular tubes. Can't speak for certain, ain't got her. Just chuck in another set of what, el84s? hold on, googling. edit: indeed, el84s. So, if you're stateside...try:
https://www.amazon.com/Tube-Complement-Vox-AC15-brand/dp/B00AOA6FXC

Not from amazon directly, but you can return it and eat the return shipping cost if it doesn't...alter anything. Or, ask around your buddies, maybe there's a nerd like me that has buckets of tubes lying around.

Match vs. unmatch refers to power section, handy when biasing. I'm an oddball that prefers unmatched tubes in the power section for harmonic effect, trust me, anything you read about here, the effect is going to be quite minimal.

A brief read:
http://www.fenderforum.com/forum.html?db=&topic_number=714229
Expensive tubes worth it? No, not really. You'd see a bigger difference swapping out your speaker, or pickups. Tube changes make for pretty light if any noticeable sounds.

tldr; replace them :P

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-GFW-GTR-AMP-Frameworks-Guitar-Stand/dp/B00HWRDSVM/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1457012563&sr=1-4&keywords=amp+stand

Thats my Thermaltake V21 computer case

These guys: MOOER GE200 Multi Effects Kit (Footswitch Topper) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BS6QZF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_jgnHGVEfIjZio

Would this be ok to use? https://www.amazon.com/Eurotubes-Bias-Probe-Octal-Tubes/dp/B019PAVXPG I remember seeing a youtube video years ago on biasing that used this. When I was looking into it recently, everyone only said about using a multimeter. I'm assuming I just put it under each tube, power on and adjust. Is there anything else I'm missing or should know about?

I think I see the resistor you are talking about (it looks discolored). Is this something I could and should replace? I'm not too experienced soldering.

OK, this parts list uses the blue and black case that is inverted with a window. You can put the 120 mm NF-A12x25 right under the top filtering mesh blowing onto the graphics card. Or remove the stock fan and put the more powerful Noctua fan at the rear of the case at 1200+ rpm to pull air down through the mesh without it being in plain view. This fan is more pleasant then others at high speed and comes with all needed wires and accessories.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $439.50 @ Vuugo
Motherboard | ASRock X570M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $279.92 @ Vuugo
Memory | *G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $104.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | *Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ Newegg Canada
Video Card | *ASRock Radeon RX 5700 8 GB Video Card | $447.50 @ Vuugo
Case | BitFenix Prodigy M Cobalt Blue MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $89.88 @ Amazon Canada
Power Supply | *Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $99.99 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | *Acer XZ321QU bmijpphzx 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $568.50 @ Amazon Canada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before BS PITA MIR) | $2253.17
| Mail-in rebates | -$55.00
| Total | $2198.17
| | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |

If you do not want to push the budget to the max, I would first cut the processor from the R7 3700X to the R5 3600 ($2025). Then I would cut the graphics card two levels to the RX580 8GB, then add 3 TB of storage, and a Windows 10 stamp ($2050, see below). Then you will want to play on 1440p medium presets with high textures. FreeSync on the monitor and graphics card should make that a smooth and low-latency experience.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $265.50 @ Vuugo
Motherboard | ASRock X570M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $279.92 @ Vuugo
Memory | *G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $104.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | *Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | *Seagate Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $94.99 @ Newegg Canada
Video Card | *ASRock Radeon RX 580 8 GB Phantom Gaming D Video Card | $256.41 @ Vuugo
Case | BitFenix Prodigy M Cobalt Blue MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $89.88 @ Amazon Canada
Power Supply | *Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $99.99 @ Amazon Canada
Operating System | *Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $134.94 @ shopRBC
Monitor | *Acer XZ321QU bmijpphzx 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $568.50 @ Amazon Canada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | (before BS PITA 50/50 flip) | $2050.11
| | Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $2025.11
| | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |


If you don't like the big handles on the Prodigy M case, they can be removed if you buy some appliance feet for the bottom. The compact case has the power supply exhaust on the bottom, and it needs clearance from the floor/desk. The graphics card is at the top of this case, so you can see the graphics card through the mesh and the window. It is also really blue.

https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-1606-8-Amplifier/dp/B00JJ191Z6/

I used these which might be the most I do for now. Have you finished the enclosure at all? I haven't decided what or how to do it -- doesn't look terrible unfinished, but will eventually want them to look nicer.

Using the same inuke here, have you adjusted the dsp at all? I'm in the middle of figuring out how to use REW with my radioshack SPL meter, hoping to finally play around with it this weekend.

I'm pretty happy with them, for about $900 they complement my Ascend Acoustics CBM-340's nicely. Just need to adjust for the room at this point.

The adhesive for the rubber feet my case came with was garbage, so i bought these. Just used a drill, some screws, and some nuts to attach them to the bottom. Looks good and the case is higher than it was before, so probably has better airflow.

>I replaced the feet with these and I've put felt sliders in it as well.

Very smart.


>I've only use 1" sliders on it but you could go 1.5" to be exact on the feet. But it works, I can slide it around on my hardwood floor by myself. But you need assistance when lifting this. It was troublesome lifiting this to the stairs lol but I survived.

I can only imagine. My Rythmiks are almost half that weight and I was not a happy camper pushing either of them up my staircase by myself.

I replaced the feet with these and I've put felt sliders in it as well.


I've only use 1" sliders on it but you could go 1.5" to be exact on the feet. But it works, I can slide it around on my hardwood floor by myself. But you need assistance when lifting this. It was troublesome lifiting this to the stairs lol but I survived.

I just bought the katana 50 with THIS bad boy and it's good,kinda tricky but makes the function

We use these foot pedals, which might be better for her than the large buttons. They are compatible with the adaptive controller. Not sure how viable it is for her since they take more force (but likewise probably are more able to take the force of less controlled pressing). I even borrow one when he isn't playing to do Push to talk when playing with a controller on my PC.

https://smile.amazon.com/StealthSwitch-FS-2-Foot-Pedal-Footswitch/dp/B00QJCAZ1M

I have not had to replace the tube on it. I've had it for almost three years and I listen to my records roughly 2-3 hours a day...maybe 3-4 days a week. The VP130 doesn't have an on/off switch, but I leave mine plugged in 24/7. So, my tube is always "hot" and has been for 3 years.

The one that comes with it sounds great to my ears, but if you ever need to replace it, I think you can use one like this fairly cheap:

http://www.amazon.com/Sovtek-12AX7LPS-Vacuum-Tube/dp/B0002M71VC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I've been eyeballing the Cannabis Rex. Thoughts?

I don't know about the other amps in the page you linked, but the Behringer AC108 is a lot of fun. It does a good solid state clean sound and a good tube-preamp distortion sound. I swapped out the stock 12ax7 tube with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/JJ-Electronics-T-12AX7-S-JJ-Electric-Amplifier/dp/B0002M728Y If you like how the stock tube distortion sounds, though, there's no need to upgrade.

Sweet pedal choices my friend!

These patch cables on Amazon are really affordable yet high quality. Flat jacks with flat ribbon cables, they'll enable you to put pedals real close together and not lose space unnecessarily. I use three different lengths of them.

Flat Patch Cables- Amazon

A helpful member of this forum advised against those metal S-connectors, though a few months ago I was using them too. Flat patch cables eliminate having to play "Tetris" with your effects, and they are probably cheaper than the solderless patch kits the pros use.

As for the bypass on the cry baby, probably all you will need is a good 3pdt foot switch, some wire, and a soldering iron. 3pdt switches can be found on Amazon, just buy a few of 'em. I use these ones for three mods, they rock.

3pdt switches- Amazon

3pdt means "3 pole double throw". I used this guy's guide on you tube for my vox true bypass mod.

3pdt bypass mod for a vox wah- YouTube

Your objective (should you feel adventurous enough to try a mod) is to rewire the input/output jacks so that they bypass directly through a 3pdt switch. My vox bypassed through the effect circuit board, leading to a bit of tone suck. I'm being you could find a similar guide for the cry baby.

Rock on.

The FS-6 is the official foot switch from Boss for this. It has LEDs that show your channel and all.

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Metal-Footswitch-battery-powered-FS-6/dp/B000OY707S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=fs6+boss&qid=1563933296&s=gateway&sr=8-1

this thing? https://www.amazon.com/Mod-Reverb-Tank-8EB2C1B-Equivalent/dp/B003BGXW50

I assume this would work: https://www.amazon.com/StealthSwitch-FS-2-Foot-Pedal-Footswitch/dp/B00QJCAZ1M/ref=asc_df_B00QJCAZ1M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343344082797&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8307622412389513599&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019659&hvtargid=pla-754337396587&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70880131804&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343344082797&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8307622412389513599&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019659&hvtargid=pla-754337396587

​

Or you could make your own for cheaper, buy this one: https://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Operated-Controller-Industrial-Anti-Skid/dp/B07KN6GLYD/ref=asc_df_B07KN6GLYD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309735769572&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9608393584347015640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019659&hvtargid=pla-654764506517&psc=1

and splice a 3.5mm connector from an old pair of headphones onto it.

This has all 5 of them:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AOA6FXC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2/188-6137407-2567854?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=0915A8DDT6FXC2YQEM8N&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_i=B00VVNIIVS

This is just the power amp section:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FO89CE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/188-6137407-2567854?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=0915A8DDT6FXC2YQEM8N&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_i=B00VVNIIVS

And this is just the pre-amp section:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5TP6U/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3/188-6137407-2567854?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=0915A8DDT6FXC2YQEM8N&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_i=B00VVNIIVS


You could also google something like "VOX AC15 tube replacement kit" to compare brands and prices for the whole set of them.

I used an A/B/Y box to go to 2 amps at a given time. Of the 3 guitar tracks recorded for each song, 2 were cut using the Sunn + the Laney, while the 3rd was cut using the Laney + the Peavey. Pretty much the only pedal I used this session was a Superfuzz clone made by wattson. That pedal sounds huge. I also used a pigtronix class A boost for a lead at one point. The sunn rig actually strips out much of the high end coming from my guitar and functions as almost a clean bass sound to offset the guitar sound from the laney. The XXX through the 2x15, by contrast, has a dirty bass sound, so all three rounded things out nicely. I got the idea to run the XXX through the 2x15 from having previously sent guitar heads through it with good results in the past. I bought the cab off a friend in Primitive Man, and he had told me to give a guitar head a shot through it, so I did.

Look into getting an A/B/Y box to split your signal. I'm considering getting the Voodoo labs pedal in this link as it can run up to four heads simultaneously.

Cheap

or,

Still pretty cheap, but shiny

I haven't had the time to open the chassis and verify this schematic for myself (found afterward), but the one I linked to should be the exact same amp. I measured the transformer output voltage a while ago before finding it... now that I think about it, probably improperly (and somehow didn't kill myself).

As for retesting plate voltage, would this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PAVXPG

It's designed for measuring plate current, but I should be able to use it for voltage by connecting the red probe to a multimeter and covering the black probe... right? It would certainly save me a lot of time opening the amp again.

I think they are all tilted. Like this. You could always make one yourself out of wood pretty cheap and easy.

I love my Blues Deluxe RI - after putting about $300 into it in upgrades. Off the rack, the highs sound like an icepick and the OD channel sounds like mush.

I replaced the speaker with a Cannabis Rex, bought some TAD power tubes and had a tech do a full bias and tune up. I then swapped the v1 and v3 preamp tubes for 12AY7 which helps control the volume level a bit more.

In the end, I still don't love the OD channel, but it's worlds better than before. The clean channel is out of this world good for the price, in my opinion.

As you look at your pod, on the left-hand side there is a "left ouput". This goes into the input on your amp. The manual (at least for my Pod 2.0) says that if you only have one output, use the left one. The Pod will see that there is only one channel and send everything to that one.

The FTSW input on your amp is for a Fender footswitch. I don't think it will do anything with any other input.

Very complete answer, thanks man!
I'll order a T-12AX7. Is this one okay or are there subtleties about ''Medium gain'' that I should look into?

No, buy the Ultra.

You can use a passive AB/Y switcher as a footswitch and even run into both channels at once (how good this sounds is very amp-dependent, but if not - it still works as a switcher). This one from Fender is excellent and less than $50.

I have 6 guitar cabinet stands I had made for this 6 years or so ago.

Bought 6 of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Stage-RS7000-Stage-Monitor-Guitar/dp/B0002GY7MO

Cut the top part off, welded it to the triangle on the bottom. And now I have Confidence Monitor stands.

I use some 55" LG's and some 42" LG's on them. Here's a picture of a board meeting setup for example.
https://imgur.com/Eh9rkUm

I just meant for a Vox. Are they all about the same then?

Something like this would be fine?

Hey guys, literally got a call the other day to get the band back together! I'm super excited, but I haven't touched my gear in about 7 years. I flipped on my ADA MB-1 and I'm not getting any sound out of the tube stage on the preamps. I believe these use 12AX7A tubes, but can I use a set of 12AX7 tubes like this. I know nothing (or have just forgotten at this point what I need to replace these with. Thanks, I'm going to be back here alot if we start playing on the regular!

Footswitch Topper) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BS6QZF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YLhJBbSF3YGXA

Hi, I have the Bravo v3 and was wondering if there is a better tube for this thing. Any suggestions?

edit: Found two that I may want to try. Electro Harmonix or Sovtek...