(Part 2) Best hardware washers according to redditors

[RESPONSE TO STRUCTURE CRITICS]:

• This was built in the basement of a 60-year old house.
  
• I considered a simple support beam, pole, or board, but since I'm really only doing this for arm work, which tops out at 110-lbs (but more often 50-80 lbs.), that small amount of weight won't take down a 12-inch joist.
  
• The weight-bearing 5/16ths hex bolts are 2.5" from the bottom of the joist and 3.5" from the top; the rest you see is for appearance sake.
  
• The plates do not sway during use; in fact, they're surprisingly stable. I may find a better solution in the future, but for now, using a plumber's wrench handle was a budget-minded choice.
  
  [ITEMS USED IN THIS ASSEMBLY]:
  
  
• The items used were common items found in any Home Depot/Lowes/Menards store -- hex bolts, lock nuts, 1-inch perforated square tubing (w/ 5/16th holes), which tested very strong.
  
• I drilled the pulley holes out to 3/8" using a "Unibit" on my drill to fit the pulley holes.
  
• The bottom rail between the pulleys is a simple edge guard attached with short lag screws.
  
• Nylon washers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1IZ3JS/
  
• Simple pulleys: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0157BBA1Y/
  
• Plumber's wrench for a plate holder (found at Walmart).
  
• Total cost was $125, which included some parts I didn't use.

Here's some 1/4-20 machine screws that can take the exact same nuts as these 1/4-20 hex head bolts

Have you ever used either a screw or a bolt in real life, or did you just learn the theory?

Do yourself and Reddit a favor, buy both of these products and a box of nuts and do an experiment for us.

Post the YouTube link when you're done, please.

>You are an idiot.

Not a valid argument but if that's all you have, then you're an idiot.

Now that I️ am at a device with a keyboard.

I️ highly recommend the Highboy YouTube videos, I️ learned a lot from watching them and refer to them if I️ have issues. If you can learn to sent your index pawls correctly, then you’ll have 0 issues.

My one 0.02$ upgrade is to use a lock washer on top of the shell plate washer and tighten the bolt down. Get a 100 pack from amazon if you switch caliber a lot like I️ do.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAO5BQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I️ have bought the following tweeks/upgrades.

http://black-cat-works4.mybigcommerce.com

From the website above I️ purchased the following. Everything is really cheap the owner 3D prints these parts. I want to say that in total I spent like 40 bucks for all of this. I think they're worth every penny.

• Upgraded Primer Arm - Broke 2 when I️ was first learning, and honestly probably would’ve broken more. The Hornady part is CHEAP plastic and this worth more than 4$ I️ paid for I️t. This one is much thicker plastic and of better design.
  
  
• Case Feed Caliber Adapter - I️ found that with the LNL Case feeder that the supplied Hornady Caliber Collets caused jams, double feeds, and issues in general. These are 3D printed to much tighter tolerances and have made my case feed MUCH more consist and am again very happy with my purchase. He had one for every caliber I reload.
  
  
• Case Feed Cam Wire Holder - Again another part like the priming arm, just made better.
  
  https://inlinefabrication.com - Little more pricey but everything is of a very high quality.
  
  
• Ultra Mount - I️ like I️t for my setup, however I️t makes the whole setup very tall with the case feeder attachment.
  
  
• Ergo Roller Handle - I️ find that I️t makes for a much more consistent stroke.
  
  
• LED light kit - Nice LED lights that are pre cut for the inside walls of the press, after loading without and now having I️t. I️ highly recommend that you purchase some sort of light. If I️ were to do I️t again I️ would’ve gotten the inline SKYLIGHT
  
  
• Double Bin Swing Arm - Attaches to the back of the case feeder and press. As I️ don’t have a bullet feeder, nor feel the need to. This allows me to do the only manual process of seating the bullet very easily without having to move my arm to far.
  
  
• Ultramount Piggyback Mount 4 LNL Bushing Set - Nice for when you need to take the bushings out to clean out any spilled powder, mess the primer tube, load the case feeder.

counterbore washers https://www.amazon.com/Countersunk-Washers-Counterbore-Aluminium-Metric/dp/B01L187YNU

amazon or ebay, i didnt use any other place and got everything i needed. go other places and look at total cost to get it to your door and do the math to find best price on stuff you want. dont believe everything you read on making kydex holsters its vary simple and you dont need alot of stuff to make quality pieces.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZFXIO9Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NKKJWW44UDCX
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K0M7KW8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9YAIOBDRH480
https://www.amazon.com/Kydex-Plastic-Sheets-Black-060/dp/B00HAS7JEA/ref=sr_1_4?srs=6465820011&ie=UTF8&qid=1477517843&sr=8-4&keywords=24%22+X+12%22
http://usaknifemaker.com/s-66-eyelets-premium-siska-1-4-black-100count.html
https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Black-1296-04-TWO/dp/B00LROZG8Y/ref=pd_sbs_201_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LROZG8Y&pd_rd_r=Z7AF2WJTYPJQ9HB0PT43&pd_rd_w=rzA3c&pd_rd_wg=G0Hax&psc=1&refRID=Z7AF2WJTYPJQ9HB0PT43
https://www.amazon.com/Sponge-Neoprene-Thick-54-Wide/dp/B001G4SE34/ref=sr_1_18?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485976452&sr=1-18&keywords=1%22+neoprene

ok ok you got me the eyelets i did get elsewere, other things that are really nice to have. Dremel (with atachments for detail work) sand paper 120, 600, 1000 grits for detail around edges, if you want a shiny plastic look hit the edges with the buffing wheel on dremel with a bit of turtle wax, i like the satin finish 1000grit leaves better.

heat gun from harbor freight works way better than the toaster oven ever did for me, has Hi and Low and up to 1000 degree i think. just lay down your sheet and get it nice and hot with the gun on high (750 setting) and it will work just fine, scroll saw > ban saw > dremel for cutting it out, also the cheapest option while only a bit slower than ban saw is just scoring with exacto knife and breaking it with pliers, splits clean every time and with moderate pressure you only have to go over it once. the hardest part was getting the arbor press set up and working right but that was just a bit of error on my part and not watching what the hell was going on lol :)

I swapped the bottom standoffs for my PDB to these insulating washers(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARAG7H2/) and freed up a bit of space. Maybe an idea you can use?

http://i.imgur.com/gQkAojW.png

I use something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-7600-Washers-10-Pack/dp/B00G5IZWPE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=%236s&qid=1556343869&s=industrial&sr=1-2-catcorr

It's the smallest washer that I have in my washer kit.

I kinda just winged it.
Basically before I take the screws off I try to screw it IN a bit and kinda get a feeling of the tightness. Then I add washers and screw them in until about as tight.
Nothing special really.
Common sense applies here, screw them in softly to get everything in place, then tighten diagonally same way you would putting on a car wheel.

https://www.amazon.com/TACFUN-Thread-Steel-Crush-Washer/dp/B00HTXR6MG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=crush+washer&qid=1554407719&s=gateway&sr=8-3

thats funny, that was my exact thought. I'm planning to do just that wit these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019O43DVA/?coliid=I1NT6XKGB3YYWK&colid=2JN7WSR0AQMMC&psc=1 or maybe these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCZ1VJL/?coliid=I3FNRESVI2YNQB&colid=4GNVW0B9GAVI&th=1

I guess if you want to reduce travel distance without any rubbery mushiness you could maybe track down some kind of washer to fit on the stems

edit: maybe something like this ?

disclaimer: haven't tried it. no guarantee it'll fit or do anything useful

That's why I love 5/3/1! My OHP progress definitely isn't linear and I get stuck at/go up and down around the same 1+ for forever, but it's so satisfying to finally break through.

Have you considered bringing your own fractional weights or some washers and making your OHP programming calculations round to the nearest lb/half lb/whatever? I have washers because they used to be wayyyy cheaper than the fractional weights. TBH I'm too lazy to carry them to the gym, but when I was using them they were pretty helpful in working up my OHP in smaller increments.

So I have a weird little idea for a craft project. I play Dungeons and Dragons but I'm too cheap for miniatures, so I've been looking into replacements.

My idea is basically to make discs/tokens out of neoprene and small magnets, with one side having something that could be drawn on and is either easily erasable or replaceable. The neoprene and magnets are specifically to give each token some weight and friction, so they can't be knocked around too much accidentally.

I've done a little research and I've found some of the materials I'd need:

These magnets are pretty much exactly what I'm looking for, though I'm not exactly sure how strong they are. I'd like for them to be strong enough to, say, stick to a fridge with about a 1/16th of an inch of neoprene between the two.

Then, I can use a pair of these neoprene washers to cover the outside of the magnet. The size isn't a perfect match to the magnet, but I've looked and this is about as close as I can get without having to buy entire sheets of neoprene and cut out the discs/rings I need myself. The magnets have a 10mm diameter, which leaves ~1.35mm around the outside of the magnet, which I suppose I could fill with...tape? There'd also be space above and below the magnet, but I'm not worried about 7/40ths of a millimeter.

I'll get another set of washers with a smaller inner diameter (but the same 1 inch outer diameter) to use as the bottoms of the tokens, just so the magnet isn't visible.

As far as the drawing surface, I'm not sure. I want it to be pretty solid, so I'm thinking I could use this stuff with these applied over top so I can get the 'easily reusable' part down. Still not entirely sure, but that seems like a reasonable solution.

I have no idea what sort of adhesive to use. Pretty big part of it, but I've never done anything like this before.

In the end, it'd look something like this. Clocks in at about $85 (most of it being the washers), but that'd get me about 100 tokens. I don't think I could use 100 tokens, but I think I could find people interested in them.

Joule creep. Seems pretty common with GBBRs.

I don’t have a link - I had it sitting in a bin of small parts. No telling where i got it from originally. It looks more or less like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Winco-A81760-DIN6319C-Spherical-Washer/dp/B00S6BZH6C/ref=lp_16410941_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1572709074&sr=1-5

Thanks for the detailed response. My style is a blend of modern/contemporary. I'm going through a divorce and just got my own place again. What you're looking at is the living room with a blow up bed in it because the living room furniture won't be delivered until the 16th, and who wouldn't want to camp out in that spot.

I mean I guess I could go with an interior designer, but I think I'm set now on testing out my tie-down idea. Not even going to go fancy, just to see how it looks. I can cover the hardware with cloth or even 3D print a cover. I'm going to try it out with some dummy weights first. If it physically works, I'll think about how to make it look a bit better.

What do you think about using the Motion SLM for rear surrounds instead of the EM-XF2? The SLM are smaller/lighter and more stylish. I've gone with dealing with the terrible speakers in my old Sharp LCD for the past 5 years, so anything is really an improvement.

http://www.amazon.com/Contained-White-Ratchet-Double-D-Rings/dp/B00LGYRQAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457516862&sr=8-3&keywords=white+ratchet+strap
http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-42264-Fender-15-Pack/dp/B00PHHOGBK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457516904&sr=8-2&keywords=2+inch+washers

Maybe the mailbox should not be flush against the door or wall, so the rain running behind it cannot run into the hinges. I would have it hanging at least 1/4 from the door, using something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Vibration-Isolation-Washer/dp/B009M96YUK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466714232&sr=8-5&keywords=plastic+washer+1%2F4+thick

Maybe something like this, with an appropriate screw?
https://smile.amazon.com/Foam-Fastener-Washers-100-Count/dp/B00FPQOJQK/

Use large washers to spread the load, so the masonry does not crack as you tighten it:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Steel-Fender-Washers-1-1/dp/B00AGK8NF8

Something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-02-3035-8-Inch-Washer-Sponge/dp/B009XD37GY/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_2_36?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405609016&sr=1-36&keywords=overflow+gasket
?

This one is 3/8ths and I think I need a thicker one. Are the ones you carry thicker? I might need more than 3/8ths

This is the closest washer i've found just looking briefly, maybe a bit too thick, but the other dimensions should be good:

http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Washer-Plain-Finish-Screw/dp/B009OJRL1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407975078&sr=8-3&keywords=7%2F8+od+washer

I'm sure you can find them cheaper, but these?

They cost a little over $1.75 each.