(Part 2) Best headphone amps according to redditors
We found 2,122 Reddit comments discussing the best headphone amps. We ranked the 208 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Schiit Magni 3 - $74
So, while I've posted about the JDS Element and the Andromeda CK before, this is the first time I've seriously tried the two together.
Sure, I mean, I tried the two, but the Element was a much too loud for the Andromedas. Then I realized that I had it on high gain. Turning off high gain combined with lowering volume in software (which has effectively no impact on sound quality) let me truly enjoy the Andros with the Element without worrying about the volume knob turning more than 15 minutes.
What are my thoughts?
Sound through the Element
The low impedance of the JDS Element lends a very bassy sound to the Andromedas. If this is a problem for you, it's something that can be "fixed" with an IEMatch. Most impressively, there's zero hiss from the JDS Element through to the Andromedas, something I've not encountered with any amp/DAC other than the SMSL IDEA.
With the Element, the Andromedas retain a wonderfully wide soundstage which I maintain competes with many high-end headphones, nearing what the HD800S can accomplish. Basically, think of these as a perfectly isolating HD800S with more bass and mids - that ridiculously clean sound in a more "fun" and natural feeling signature, with a slight decrease to soundstage.
There's something different about listening through the Element, I think. It sounds more "natural", but I feel that this is more of a placebo: when I listen through a desktop setup rather than my portable one (Pixel XL + IEMatch or IDEA), I find it easier to just sit back and concentrate on the sound more. The volume knob adds to the experience.
Thoughts on the IEMatch
At the same time, the IEMatch seems to do something funky with the sound in addition to simply lowering the bass response. This isn't the first time I've felt like this with impedance dongles; I had the UE Buffer Jack and felt similarly about it when I paired it with my Empire Ears Spartans. Something strikes me as off with these installed - I can't pinpoint it, the headphones perform just as well technically - but I can definitely tell the difference and I definitely dislike their presence.
Comply Foams
One major change I've incorporated since last time I've tried this pairing is using Comply foams on the Andromedas. I've been a huge fan of Spinfits, but they aren't the perfect size for me and often end up creating too much pressure (or being too loose) in my ear canal, which seriously messes with the sound. The Comply Foams are uncomfortable to put in at first (and tedious: you have to compress the tips with your fingers before insertion), and you can feel the foam against your ears if you concentrate, but the isolation and ear pressure problems are completely solved. (These isolate a lot. Walking around with these outside is going to lower your life expectancy.) Still not as comfortable as my customs, as my ears occasionally remember that foams are pushing against them, but I'll take it.
The foams add to the bass response while smoothing out the highs a bit. Cymbals, for example, feel ever so slightly quieter, without losing any clarity.
I'd suggest looking at the Audio Technica M40X. It's currently going for $99, and is truly an awesome pair of study headphones. They will be more suited than the M50X, because the M50X features more unnecessary bass and treble, and the soundstage is also narrower. Comparatively, the M40X is more neutral and pleasant.
But, if you can splurge upto $145, just look no further than the Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm Version currently going for $144, and is like miles ahead of what the M40X/50X can offer you.
Pair the DT770 Pro with an amp like the Fiio A1 currently for $28, and you get a long term solution. Basically for just $50 more ($144 + $28), you're getting a solution that's head & shoulders above your all expectations!
All right guys, I just had to take a picture of the two speakers together because, as you can see, compared to the diminutive MK402 the Elacs are simply HUGE. I kept the mouse in the pic to give you an idea (sorry, I checked, I had no bananas!).
Their size is something you should be aware of, especially if you are going to keep em -like me- as monitors on a desk.
A little background on my system: I use mainly Tidal hi-res streaming as source. The PC is hooked via USB to an external dac, an AUNE X1S, line out of the DAC goes into a Dayton DTA-120 (the real hero of this story, spoilers!!!) that powers the speakers.
Right out of the box, I position the Elacs on the desk (on foam absorbers for studio monitors, you might notice em under the elacs in the pic), hook em up, and Im shocked. They sound exactly like the MK402... wtf?
Well the first lesson is, guys, believe in break-in. I had the same thing happening with the MK402. They sounded a bit crappy and harsh at first, but sloooooooooooowly the sound mellowed and became fuller. Fact is it happened so progressively I always had the doubt it was my ear/brain adjusting to their sound more than break-in.
This time around, though, it happened in a matter of just an hour and possibly less. Something definitely "loosened up" inside the ELACS, and oh boy... the poor daytons were blown out of the water.
First thing you will notice is the obvious one. The Elacs will go lower... and DEEPER. Please be aware that the MK402 go crazy low for their size. You can easily be shocked at the bass they can "magically" let out... but it definitely lacks that punch and that fullness that the ELACS will provide with an easiness that is honestly disarming. One of their strong points is that they sound (and they will go LOUD!) like they dont even care. You crank the volume and they just shrug and give you volume and power, never losing their composture, whereas the MK402 will totally break down and will start showing signs of ...suffering?
Second thing you'll notice is... despite their BIG size, they are muuuuuuuch easier to position. The Mk402 are extremely, extremely fussy. Push them one inch too close to the rear wall, the bass goes so muddy you wanna kill yourself, pull em one inch too far and the bass becomes anemic and the "magic" disappears. I guess Mr Andrew Jones did the right thing putting the reflex on the baffle instead of the more typical rear exhaust. But it doesnt end there. the biggest difference is the dispersion. The MK402 CAN sound awesome and "flat" but you must almost lock your head in a very precise and narrow position. Move sideways or a little back and forth and some frequencies will overwhelm others. with the Elacs... well, I'm flabbergasted. You can almost move around the room and you'll hear the frequencies pretty much the same way in every position.
Obviously the Elacs -I suspect for the same reason: dispersion- will give a much better holographic presentation, but Im still working on the placement and my room is really fussy so maybe I'll update you guys later when I finally manage to make the speakers "disappear", which was something simply impossible to achieve with the Daytons (believe me... I tried).
Third thing you'll notice (as they keep breaking in, becoming more and more transparent) is how comparatively analitic they are. Listening to Steely Dan's "I got the news" the infamous scratching/clicking around 2:17 made me jump on the seat, I litterally thought something was faulty and breaking!
After a while, though, the biggest and most shocking realization is how nonchalantly the little class-D amplifier from Dayton is driving the Elacs. The speakers are quite efficient, yes, but I was ALMOST sure I would need a better amplifier (my eyes are on the NAD326BEE, always been a big fan of NAD sound), but Im not so sure anymore. Volume knob is at hour ten/eleven (it will go as far as hour five) and the room is filled with a smooth, relaxed, full sound. Maybe the NAD can wait!
Okay, I'll shut up for now. I'll leave here a few links with all the aforementioned gear for reference, especially price-wise.
Aune DAC
Dayton D-Class Amp
Dayton MK402
Elac B6.2
*edited endless times for clarity and cause I do thousands of typos.
uhh you might wana use this instead between your phone and fiio to shorten that cable or alternatively a fiio L15 (same thing but with flat cable instead)
and isnt it double amping when running e07k > o2? maybe use this so you only use the fiio as a dac? http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Line-Out-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S
edit: or why not just the fiio on its own when travelling?
I've had a Jensen turntable for about 2 years now, and they're really not as bad as people here describe them. People here make it seem like it's the equivalent of putting a drill through your records, when in reality it's just a slightly heavier tracking force.
As /u/vwestlife said, most record players from the '60s and '70s tracked just as hard and they sound fine.
And yeah, the turntable is $40. It's bound to sound pretty bad, but with decent speakers and a second preamp you can get OK sound out of one of these. (/u/vwestlife goes into more details of the cart and how to make your cheap table sound a little better here.) The cheap cart and the preamp that comes on one of these makes things sound pretty tinny, even after installing a replacement stylus. I picked one of these up on Amazon about a year ago for $30 and it's brought back a lot of the bass that gets removed when using such a cheap table.
Also I made a post here a while back that showed how I could lighten the tracking force a little bit on these tables if you ever wanted to but I removed it because it wasn't very scientific and this is /r/vinyl. Basically I taped a penny and a dime on top of each-other and taped them off the back edge of the tonearm opposite of the needle. It's definitely lighter (I have a pretty floppy record that used to "sag" a lot more when played without my adjustments).
Welp, sorry if this came off a little salty haha. Also, this isn't formatted great because I'm kinda in a hurry, but if you want pictures let me know! :)
Fulla 2 has a $20 coupon. I’ve been really happy with mine.
Schiit Fulla 2 D to A Converter and Headphone Amplifier - DAC/Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWG13Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p-hlDbBEQ42N0
If you canbypass the internal Apple amp, then the [Fiio L7] (http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Line-Out-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S) connects to the E17 and to line in / USB. When using the L7, there is a LO BYPASS slider on the side of the E17 which when selected bypasses the onboard amp on the E17 and allows it to output as DAC only.
However using Apple line out does NOT bypass the Apple DAC. For that you need a compatible Android device with USB LOD.
BTW this also works when the E17 is plugged into the E09, avoiding double amping.
I'm looking for a comfortable set of headphones I can wear all day, that accurately and cleanly reproduce sound.
Budget - Theoretically unlimited, but I'm usually happy enough in the low-mid range.
Source - HiFiMAN EF2A
Requirements for Isolation - These will be used at work to drown out the noise of the mechanical keyboards my new coworkers use.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Over the ear
Preferred tonal balance - Studio monitors, I want accurate sound reproduction.
Past headphones - For years I used a pair of Sennheiser PXC-350's for travel and occasional office use. I love the sound but they are too tight on my head to wear comfortably for hours.
In the last few weeks I've tried out 3 different pairs:
Preferred Music - Vocal/R&B, Rock, Classical and occasionally Jazz. The first things I listened to when I got the two Sony headphones were Amy Winehouse, a Dvorak concerto, Pink Floyd and Joe Satriani.
Amps like the following could be used. Keep in mind that they don't have remotes.
http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=lp_281053_1_18?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1381948567&sr=1-18
http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP21-Digital-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B005CRLZGE/ref=sr_1_151?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1381948811&sr=1-151
When it comes to speakers, you could go with options like the following:
http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381949940&sr=1-1&keywords=micca+mb42
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381949940&sr=1-5&keywords=micca+mb42
there are a few choices though most are hybrid tube amps
https://www.amazon.com/xDuoo-TA-01-192KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00L25RF78/
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-T1-Optical-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B06WP6357W/
https://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/
https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Audio-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00TA7CNQ8/
If you have an optical or coax out put then you could get a really cheap DAC and feed a tube amp like the Little Dot 2
As mentioned in other comments, the usual suspects from Schiit's budget-friendly selection are a good start:
As for products not made by Schiit, any of these will give you good performance for the price:
Amplifiers:
DACs:
Now I can't guarantee that all of these amps will reliably drive the AKG K712 Pro with authority or anything, but they should all be able to let you use them without turning the volume up to 11.
Hope this helps :)
Edit: Ok so smaller USB-powereds are not sufficient for the AKGs, as pointed out by the commenters below (Thanks for correcting). That would explain why I perceived so much improvement upgrading from the E18 :P
http://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O
the budget dac/headphone amp/speaker amp seems to be a series of compromises to get what you want in one box...either lack of inputs, or a weaker speaker amp or headphone amp section...they are jack of all trades, master of none type units
the cheapest device I am aware of that meets all your criteria is probably the Teac AI101-DA: usb input, 2 optical inputs, 3.5mm analog input, speaker/subwoofer outputs, headphone output, but out of your price range at $299
the budget options that provide speaker and headphone outputs are Topping VX1, TP-32EX and TP-30MK2 however none of these devices has an optical input (TP32-EX has spdif input); they do all feature rca analog inputs however, but you would then be using your pc dac as opposed to the dac in this unit, if that is a concern for you
You're welcome.
(https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD900X-Audiophile-Headphones/dp/B009S331VU)
and these for travel and school Sennheiser Momentum In-Ear. I like them both for their purpose, but I'm not particularly fond of the Sennheisers shrill highs, and I feel the Audio Technicas are a little too neutral for my music.
I've also been looking for headphones myself but am stuck between the Motorhead Iron Fist, the ATH-M50X, and the Grado sr80e, any new suggestions are welcome, though.
150 for an HD650 is a good deal and a properly amped HD650 is taking a huge dump on the HD598CS. But using the HD650 portable is not possible, due to its open back build and the poor isolation and high sound leakage that comes with it.
The HD650 is a headphone for desktop use only and using it with a portable amp does not make much sense.
If you really need a portable DAC/Amp and want to amp an HD650 the logical choice would be
___
Don't understand me wrong. The Fulla 2 will most likely work with everything you throw at it. But don't expect it to drive the HD650 while listening to Clair de lune with a track gain of +19dB
https://www.amazon.com/iEMatch-Optimizer-Balanced-Single-Headphones/dp/B01L4CPF7U
Get this to fix the issues with output impedance. I am using this device with my Andromedas.
Cheap and dirty, but reasonable quality (better than onboard sound)
Popular, good quality, doubles as a headphone amp
More High End, Tube Sound
that is an analog mic with an ADC then the USB interface, essentially a sound card, it isn't just a wire adapter. sound inside the computer is digital, sound outside of the computer is analog, there must be some means to convert it from one to the other. For headphones I'd use a decent DAC and amp stage, something like this for portability, or this for stationary use or FiiO E07k for ultra portability
It's called the Fiio L7
Link: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Line-Out-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404277878&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+l7
The line out side is connected to a 3.5 to RCA going into the Magni, while the usb line in is going into the source. It allows me to bypass the amp on the E7 and just use the dac. An advantage to this is I can just use the E7 as a portable dac and amp combo, instead of a dedicated home setup.
Edit: I saw in your tag you have the E09K, it's basically that, but if you already had an amp.
I ended up getting the Topping TP21 for that reason. Another great little amp.
I think we've already found you a solution, but I had already typed most of this up, so I'll post it for educational purposes.
It's tricky to go from optical/digital to headphones, because most products for headphones are designed to support portable use... and optical isn't a cable type you'd typically see in portable products. So you're kind of trying to cross two worlds it's far from impossible, but may not be super cheap.
You need two things. A DAC to get from the digital signal to an analog one and a headphone amp to give that signal enough power to drive your headphones. You can find TONS of DAC/Amp combo devices--many products from Fiio... but they're generally designed to go receive USB or digital coax (again because the market is much larger for portable use). The DAC/Amp combos that can take optical, and in turn are designed for desktop/tabletop use, are gonna be more expensive--products from Shiit.
You could combine a $30 Fiio D3K Taishan DAC with a $100 Shiit Magni. But that amp is probably overkill. You could use a $70 Topping TP21 as your amp--it supports speakers and headphones.
The absolute cheapest option I can come up with is a ~$30 Fiio D3K combined with a $30 Fiio E5. But then you'll have to deal with that portable amp running out of batteries. Also, you'd need an adapter to get from Stereo RCA to 3.5 stereo.
In the end, it turns out your headphones already have a DAC and an amp built in. If you used a USB cable, you'd be using the UDB DAC. If you use the RCA cables (which is what you should do--with an outboard DAC), then you'll just be plugging straight in to your amp. Hope that all makes sense.
Minimus 7? I thought I was having a flashback lol. Completely agree with Rrussell2060. For $150-200 US budget a combination of one of these amps for $50-80
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXCEDGS/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K7AT26/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLGEQ/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WK775U/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA3ECGK/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CRLZGE/
plus one of these speakers for $55-90/pair
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKPJSIM/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/
would be best. If you're going to connect your PC via RCA plugs you're done or you could add a BT receiver for $20 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBCAW2/ if you have a tablet or cell phone you want to stream with.
Skip the DAC, you don't need it unless your source's DAC is noisy. Used would get you better stuff, but it's harder to find and quality isn't guaranteed.
Speaker ideas: Pioneer or Fluance
Amp ideas: Topping or Audiosource
Add a Dayton sub-1200 when your budget increases.
Amazon has them in stock. Check out Maverick Audio's MagicTube D1 Plus (or the regular D1). I just got it and I love it.. esp the multiple inputs (one for my PC, one for my other PC, and a hookup for my windows phone).
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $343.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $56.60 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $150.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $59.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $228.60 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $117.99 @ Micro Center
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $126.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | Acer G257HU smidpx 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | $259.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1455.02
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 11:38 EDT-0400 |
So seeing you have a headset, the A40s. They aren't very good compared to price equivalent Of DT 990's and as well as DT 770s now I would highly suggest upgrading to a headphone and a modmic or blue yeti.
Comparisons
Headsets are generally really bad, the A40s/A50s are ok, they aren't great but not bad. What I would do is move to headphones and a modmic. People have made this switch and love it. The DT 990s are stupid comfy, same for the DT 880s and DT 770s and any Bererdynamic headphones. They are so comfy, huge pads, deep cuffs, comfy, so much.
Open vs closed back
Headsets are generally closed back, however they have some issues with that. They tend to have bad audio positioning in the headset. They don't give spacial awareness and such.
Open headphones leak sound, so people around you can hear. The drivers are directly exposed or slightly covered. However they offer a lot better experience, much larger sound stage, much better audio positioning, and everything better overall.
Mics
Now for headphones, they don't come with mics so you have a few options. You can get a Blue Yeti mic, a modmic, Audio Technica AT2020, or similar. I'll list a few
Headphones closed and open
AMPs/DACs
Finals words
I would visit /r/headphones for a 2nd opinion too. Also feel free to ask any questions regarding this or the build. I included a 1440p monitor if you wanted to upgrade instead of the headphones.
Ugh. Recommendation for something that can replace my D1 so I can use it for my A5's and headphones? Budget up yo say, $300. Perhaps something that may push some 600ohms down the road.
Edit What do you think? http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1419028507&sr=8-11&keywords=amp+dac&pebp=1419028571974
All have preouts on the back to hookup to your speakers. Also consider upgrading your phono preamp to get better sound especially for headphones. What is your cartridge/stylus?
Just bought some new 'AKG K7XX Massdrop Limited Edition Headphones' and am looking to get an amp for them :D I will use these for music listening at my office (via PC and Spotify) and on my home system which includes a PC w/ Spotify, turntable w/ pre-amp, PC w/ my music library and a lot of FLACs
Options I've been looking at:
Right now I'm leaning towards the APPJ or TEAC but would love some feedback from /r/audiophile! Note: The prices are from Massdrop, not the site linked
UK buyers might prefer to buy Fulfilled by Amazon, given the possibility of quality control issues (and that when VAT and import duty are taken into consideration, the Massdrop price isn't much different).
To be honest, I'd be hesitant about the idea of a valve amp removing distortion. I always understood that the point of valves was to add a little "pleasing" distortion; that's what makes for the supposed elevation. (And that if you use a valve amp in the range where it doesn't distort, it's basically hugely inefficient compared to a solid state amp...) Still, if your synth doesn't have a headphone out, I guess you have to feed it through something. And as someone on Head-Fi observed, valve amps are pretty.
Schiit Fulla $80 24/96
http://www.head-fi.org/t/756553/review-of-schiit-audio-fulla-usb-dongle-dac-amp-w-pics
Fiio K1 $40 24/96 (not async)
http://www.head-fi.org/t/788198/fiio-k1-smaller-and-better-for-less
Bravo Audio V1 Tube Driven Headphone Amplifier (just amp, no DAC)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QKTLW/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_3
Little Dot I+ 6JI X2 Tube standard Hybrid Headphone Tube Amplifier (just amp, no DAC)
http://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-6JI-standard-Headphone/dp/B00A2QM5O6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463140467&sr=1-2&keywords=little+dot
My Little Dot I (https://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-6JI-standard-Headphone/dp/B00A2QM5O6) is $115 brand new. If you shop around you may be able to find some better deals too!
Wanting to get a new amp or AMP/DAC combo
Budget - $150
Source - Current source is a Fiio E10
Current Headphones - Hifiman HE-400
Preferred tonal balance - I like a warmer sound more than a bright sound.
Preferred Music - Everything. From Dubstep and DnB to Indie rock and metal.
What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Just looking to change out my Fiio since the headphone amp section of it is dying.
Hey guys! So the headphone amp section on my Fiio E10 DAC/amp is starting to die. I'm getting weird thumping and clicking noises from it and sometimes it cuts out all together.
So now I'm on the search for a new amp. The DAC section and the output on the rear of the Fiio still works fine so getting a standalone amp instead of a amp/DAC combo is an option. Just not sure if the DAC in the E10 is good or not.
I also use the Fiio rear output to run to my speaker amp so maybe a new DAC/amp combo would be a better choice.
Right now I am looking at two things:
Amp: Little Dot I+ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QM5O6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A2Q0JVLI22BSVA
Amp/DAC: SMSL SD793-ii : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_5&smid=A1V0149CC6WCAD
Any opinions? The SMSL is quiet a bit cheaper so I'll be able to get a set of velour pads for my headphones if I get that.
Yeah, as long as it isn't waisted after you upgrade then it's not a big deal. But that Fiio E6 isn't going to drive the HD600's very well at all. You will definitely want a Schiit Stack or an O2/ODAC
Well you could get a good amp now so you're good to go if you ever get a pair of power hungry headphones. If money isn't an issue then go ahead. I've heard good things about the 02 amp and dac as well, not sure if that's available over there though.
Here's a link
JDSLABS Objective2 + ODAC Combo Headphone amp By NwAvGuy model by JDS LABS http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJ9405O/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_GJK2tb07T81FA
So looking at your area I see a few options, but none strike me as a great deal. However, based on your location this may be normal. I attempted to check the price of shipping from various ID sellers and shops and it seems shipping will be $100-$200 which isn't ideal as it really hurts your buying power.
You can attempt yourself to see what the shipping is. I tried Chane's bookshelves, HTD's level three, Audio Advisor, and Accessories for less.
The only retailer that I could find that was reasonable shipping was of course Amazon. So here are my suggestions:
Local speakers to try:
B&W DM601
Paradigm Mini Monitor V6
If looking new:
Monitor Audio B1
I think the Paradigm or MA should be the preferred routes. The DM601 isn't really worth it unless it's at least a S2, if original it may be worth around $150-200. Still, nothing hurts trying to negotiate a better price on the used ones - you'll need it on the electronics side.
Your biggest problem is finding power and cheap. If you could even find a budget Onkyo locally you will likely be ahead as shipping hurts. Otherwise you'll looking at something like a T-Amp/DAC combo from amazon or paying ~$160 shipped to get something like this rebadged Amp 100 which doesn't include the DAC. If your laptop has a mini-toslink there's a Fiio DAC on Amazon for ~$20 that would work - while it isn't USB equipped it does allow you to move it around later one being toslink/spdif. So this amplifier, the B&W speakers, and the DAC could fit in your $500 though I think the speakers are overpriced. If you could get the Paradigms for $300 the APA 100, Fiio, and them would likely be up your alley.
For all intents and purposes you could get the Monitor's and this amp shipped for around $500 or get a slightly more powerful T-Amp like this and one of the used pairs, but I'm hesitant to recommend chi-fi T-amps considering that shipping is so expensive that return shipping for repairs/returns could really hurt.
If none of these solutions float your boat, the LSR305 in the OP and a DAC could still work as well and would fit in your budget rather easily.
First, for an amp/receiver, the more you can spend, the better you can get. If you can budget more for this component, do so. It will make a ton of difference.
Second, for something new, take a look at:
Third, for vintage, the search is a bit more personal. Check listings like these or find your local clearance dealer. For your needs and at your price range, a nice mate for those Pioneers might be a Marantz, Yamaha, or Kenwood. Lots of offerings and they'll have the sound and look you're going for.
Keep the following tips in mind for buying used:
I say go with the 80 ohm and get a portable amp, they aren't that expensive :)
Depends on what you are looking for, but in general, I recommend going with fully external sound cards. That helps eliminate possibility of the card picking up noise from inside the computer. For an all around PC audio upgrade, the Sound Blaster G5 is a safe bet. Good for gaming, movies, and music with most headphones or with an amp/speakers. It's been on sale few time for under $100. They also still sell their E series which can be used on your pc or as a portable DAC/amp. I have an E1 that works well for my laptop, but I'd go E3 or E5 if looking to upgrade.
http://us.creative.com/p/sound-cards/sound-blasterx-g5
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B00J79KNPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485818523&sr=8-1&keywords=sound+blaster+e3
If your main goal is to get get better quality music, then there's a ton of options, and you might want to go with a different company/product.
You would need a separate mic but I picked up a pair of Beyerdynamic DT 770 80ohm pros during Prime Day for $120, coupled with a SoundBlaster E3 DAC I have been sucked into another world. The noise cancellation is phenomenal and bass is incredible, but doesn't drown out the highs either. Best part is I can take it on the go with my phone if I want, so the versatility is appreciated. For the uninitiated a DAC is an external amplifier that also converts sound from digital to analog, making it crisper without the noise interference that internal sound cards can produce. The E3 can really crank up whatever you're listening to.
https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-DT-770-Pro-ohm/dp/B0016MNAAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469208526&sr=8-1&keywords=beyerdynamic+dt770
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B00J79KNPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469208557&sr=8-1&keywords=soundblaster+e3
Hope this helps, not a true audiophile but it was a huge step up from my old Logitech set. Gaming headsets bad, studio headphones good
The Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pros have great bass response, while the Sennheiser HD598's aren't as punchy in the bass. That being said, the DT770's present a bit more in the high-end frequencies, and some might find that unbalanced.
The HD598's are certainly more balanced in their presentation. The HD558's are the cheapest option, but present great value for somebody looking for a bit more bass than the HD598's, but less than the DT770's.
Any of these headphones paired with a proper headphone amplifier will provide a good listening experience, but different. While both Sennheiser's are open-back and will breath more to provide a wider sound stage, the Beyerdynamics are closed back and will provide a more narrow sound stage, but provide more bass response.
Creative Sound Blaster E3. It's one of the best I've tried. It's also an amplifier and DAC in one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J79KNPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IK6YAb3WXHZSR
I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KHXSVY/
There were others selling the exact same product; actually ordered from 2 different vendors just to see. Some are bundled with stuff like stylus or phone stand.
Works fine but unfortunately seems to be subject to electrical noise when charging. This may be unavoidable. It does seem subject to vagaries of the USB itself or the type of charger. So you might get better luck connecting with a data-only cable or USB condom, or charging from a different charger or a power pack.
Another option may be to use a USB DAC. I use Sound Blaster E3 which actually has a battery. It's also apparently possible according to USB specs to design a hub that provides power to the host (phone) while providing connection to a device (DAC). Haven't ever tried though.
More on the E3: I use it mainly in Bluetooth but it can do line-in and USB audio as well. Interestingly it also has a battery so if you hook it up as USB host it will charge the phone a little (though not sure how quickly it kills the amp). NFC doesn't work though.
Hey Zeoss! I wanted to say awesome reviews and you have been a huge help in stepping into the audiophile world.
I recently picked up the Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX Headphones when they went on sale. Now I'm trying to prepare what amp/dac I should buy.
I use my headphones to game and listen to music, I also work in game development. I was leaning towards the Aune X1S.
https://www.amazon.com/Aune-X1S-384KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B014FBZCCA
But I also was looking at the Mayflower.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflower-Electronics-Desktop-ODAC-Rev/dp/B00TQ2JDAG
There is also a massdrop right now for the Aune X7s and I could pick up the X1S Mini dac as an addon.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/aune-x7s-balanced-headphone-amp
I know the Sennheiser HD 6XX has open backs so I was wondering what you would recommend. Should I stay with the X1S for gaming and general music listening, or would another amp/dac combo be better? I'm not sure if it matters if it's a combo amp/dac or if they are separate like the X7S. Also I'm concerned about my mic, but I'll probably just go with a standalone that goes directly to my PC. My price range is 200-500$. Thanks for any help!
Well. That's a good question. If you are in a budget then pretty much 60-70% who read this will agree. The Fiio E10K. It will set you back less than $100. It is brushed aluminium. Includes a bass gain switch, if you need some additional drive or jaw shocking bass. It's nice and small. And a good DAC/amp.
Mayflower objective 2. This DAC/amp is for more audiophiles with a higher budget. It can drive high impedance headphones and people's listening experience on the Objective 2 was superb on multiple headphone types, that were geared towards different ways of listening. It has superb clean sound.
Sound blaster E5 by creative. It is capable to drive up to 24 bit/192 khz audio files. It is capable to drive headphones up to 600 ohms or 2 300 ohm impedance sets of headphones. It has very good quality sound for what it is.
That'll be that.
Links:
Fiio E10K: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523895090&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fiio+e10k
Mayflower objective 2:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TQ2JDAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523895186&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mayflower+objective+2&dpPl=1&dpID=31qJvgmNIwL&ref=plSrch
Sound blaster E5:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MXJYDUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523895254&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sound%2Bblaster%2Be5&th=1&psc=1
Bought these for my kids Sennheiser GSP 600 Professional Gaming Headset
Overall, pretty good. Comfortable, FAR above average fidelity for a gaming headset, mic is probably one of the best mics I've ever used that is part of a gaming headset. Again, my kids like them.
I personally don't like gaming headsets.
My personal gaming rig does not use "gaming" headsets.
I use regular low end audiophile headphones paired with a mixer + mic.
Again this is solely for gaming and not listening to music.
For music it depends what I'm listening to but I have two primary set of cans.
This is my primary amp for music:
I caught the "headphone" bug so I've got tons of mid range cans too e.g. Sennheiser HD660, HD700, a couple of tube amps etc.
Hope it helps.
I've got an E17 that works just fine on Fedora. The E17k should work as well.
The Hifimans are awesome. You can get the HE-400i for under $200. Amazing light planar sound. Extremely neutral and well resolving. Lacks a little bit in the bass department for some, but you can get a headphone amp (like the FiiO E17K that I have) that has some bass boost and be QUITE happy. I have the sibling 400S, which has a little bit more bass, was originally a little less expensive, but I paid around $300 (4 years ago) and was happy to.
The downsides to them are they are large and open backed. If you can't accommodate open backed, look elsewhere.
Edit: Ima put mine on now.
I would highly suggest against a DAC that draws power from the phone itself, even though you may have a power source nearby, it isn't good for the phone battery to be charge/discharged multiple times a day.
I'd instead look for a DAC/Amp with it's own battery, like the FiiO E17K
You will want to use something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Bass-Traveler-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00X67G77O/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=portable+headphone+amp&qid=1566014072&s=gateway&sr=8-15
This should allow you to boost the signal coming from your camera and run it to your headphones. I would also get some closed-back headphones if you don't have them already. That should help cut the outside noise getting to your ears.
Best thing I came up with in the past is using an audio mixer and a headphone amplifier.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UIP0IPO
http://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B00X67G77O
The only all in one dac+amp with RCA line in's I can think of is the Aune X1s. It is pricey but one of the cleanest dac/amps I have ever used.
This Fiio K5 looks interesting! Looks like the outputs on the back are line-outs, rather than pre-outs, so you'll still have to control the BX5s' volume separately.
At $200 you don't have a lot of options for Spotify capable DAPs as you surmised. An AMP/DAC would probably be the way to go if you're looking to put a little more juice into your current IEMs. FiiO is definitely well regarded in the price range you are looking at. I think the next best portable amp I see recommended regularly is the Oppo ha-2 at around $300 new. Like I said, I had buzzing with the my E18, but /u/AV3Nguyen didn't. I've seen others [claim to have this issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/5386ko/fiio_e18k_gsm_interference/ too, suggesting that it has to do with GSM networks, so it might not matter to you either way. Otherwise the E17K is a perfectly fine option. You'd even have the option to upgrade to the docking unit if you wanted. Your mileage may vary with all of this, of course, since a lot of IEMs aren't very power hungry. You might not notice much more than a bump in your potential volume, but it will future proof you should you want to pick up something that needs a bit more oomph.
The third option would be to put the money towards a slightly better phone with the features you want, unless there's a reason you'd prefer to have your music on a separate unit. The LG v10 and v20(not yet out) have good DAC/Amps, so those might be options if your carrier allows, though I don't know how much you were going to spend on the phone.
> FiiO K5
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Docking-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B01BBX1NNM
It has a USB IN and the title says Amplifier/DAC... I thought it did have a DAC...
I think you need to try the headphones on the Soundblaster Z to see if it can drive them. The Z has a built in headphone amp. It may be enough.
If not, there are a number of lower cost options for amping your headphones:
Take a look at this, it may fit your purposes https://www.amazon.com/Audio-iEMatch-Headphone-Travel-Accessory/dp/B01L4CPF7U
The Nintendo Switch has a noisy output. When I plug IEMs into it, I hear a noticeable hiss the whole time. I bought an ifi Audio ieMatch and the problem went away.
The momentums are very meh, I can also recommend Beyerdynamic DT770s (which are very comfortable and closed instead of open) with a modmic, but you may need a dac/amp for them depending on your onboard audio. I'd recommend 100% actually DT770s with a Dac/Amp which will use Optical in from your PC and output through the jack on the front, when it comes to being used with your phone, you may have problems however, so if you can't afford to buy something like a FiiO A1 alongside it to power the headphones at the same time, you may want something else such as Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros.
Earpiece? Like, smaller, earbud headphones? I would honestly recommend getting a portable amp if you're having trouble hearing it on max volume. I've found the Switch (and the 3DS) have very low max volume via the headphone jack on some games, especially BOTW. Maybe something like this. It'll let you use your existing headphones - you just plug the amp into the Switch's headphone jack, and then you plug your headphones into the amp.
Here are some examples of quality external dacs/amps:
Topping DX3
JDS Labs Element(B-stock is $50 cheaper with cosmetic imperfections)
JDS Labs Atom Amp + Topping D50 Dac
There are cheaper ones, but these are considered great in the audiophile community.
There are also soundcards but these are superior. And all you need is a USB 2.0 slot (and power outlet).
The benefit of the better motherboard audio is only noticed when the GPU is under heavy load, producing EMI.
Do not buy a more expensive motherboard on the basis of the audio quality. An external DAC + amp will always be better.
The SoundBlasterX G6 is not a product to buy. Their products are 50% marketing wank.
https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3 - This is a better solution, albeit slightly more expensive.
The N22 is kind of a waste since it's a speaker amp and your speakers are powered.
A Topping DX3 Pro is a headphone amp/DAC (no speaker amp) that has a great headphone amp and DAC. That would be a better piece of kit for you for only a little more money than the N22. https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3
For less money than what you spent, the Audioengine D1: https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B006IPH5H2/r
EDIT: I am dumb I just saw you wanted closed back.
​
open back or closed back? Open back is better for gaming but others will be able to hear what you hear. If it doesn't matter then open back for gaming.
OPEN Headphones:
ATH-AD700X - ~95 - 100 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-Audiophile-Open-Air-Headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ATH-AD700x&qid=1563901733&s=gateway&sr=8-2
ATH-AD900x - ~135 new https://www.amazon.com/Technica-ATH-AD900X-Open-Back-Audiophile-Headphones/dp/B009S331VU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH-AD700x&qid=1563901733&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
HE4XX - $180 new https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-hifiman-he4xx-planar-magnetic-headphones
​
Sennheiser HD 58X - 160 new - https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-hd-58x-jubilee-headphones
​
Closed headphones:
ATH m40x - $100 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH+m40x&qid=1563902298&s=gateway&sr=8-3
These are deemed better than the m50x's
​
DT770 80 ohm - 135 new https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphone/dp/B0016MNAAI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=DT770+80+ohm&qid=1563902448&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
ATH-MSR7 - 175 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-MSR7BK-SonicPro-High-Resolution-Headphones/dp/B00PEUBIKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH%2Bmsr7&qid=1563902327&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
I owned these and played CSGO and I had no issues hearing anyone. I made it to LEM (if that matters to you) Very clear audio. I also never used an amp with these so they can only get better. if you have more questions on these just message me, I can compare them to the HE4xx's as I now own those.
​
AMP & Dac:
FX Audio DAC X6 - ~54.99 new https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=FX+Audio+DAC+X6&qid=1563901865&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
Schiit Fulla 2 - ~120 new https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Schiit+Fulla+2&qid=1563902076&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
Basically I am no expert as I am just getting into the DAC/AMP world but from my research and this subreddits wiki and other sources, it seems better to put your money into better headphones and then into a better DAC/AMP. I would look for a used pair of headphones from
/r/AVexchange or /r/hardwareswap if you are wanting something better, I picked up a pair of HE4xx for 110 shipped.
​
Just my two cents. I could be wrong and anyone please feel free to correct me as I am still learning all this.
What's your budget?
Schiit Fulla 2 is a really nice solution. https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=schiit+fulla&qid=1574456952&sr=8-2
Your not going to see combo ports for anything desktop though. Desktop almost exclusively uses seperate jacks for in and out, you'd need an adapter for 4-pole combo ports.
If I had your money, I would go for this:
AMP: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Magni-Headphone-Amp-Preamp/dp/B07KWJ9QMN
DAC: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-3-D-Converter/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549174246&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shiit+modi+3&dpPl=1&dpID=31YBfKudw3L&ref=plSrch
Headphones:
https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphone/dp/B0006NL5SM (250 ohm version)
Yes of course it's like a hundred bucks over your budget... This is how upgrading your battlestation goes usually xd
Great looking setup though!
The 82 does not have a preamp and you will need one in order to hook up to powered speakers. You would probably be fine with something like a Schitt mini with the added bonus of being able to use it for headphones as well.
I would stay away from receivers if you're looking for a headphone amp. The lower the output impedance, the better. There's a few different options for you. The Fiio K5 Pro for $150 is a dac/amp combo and would suit you well. It's out of stock at the moment, though. The Schiit Magni 3 on sale for $74, but it's only an amp. The SMSL M100 for $80, Topping D10 for $90 (USB only), Topping D30 for $105, and Schiit Modi 3 for $120 are all good dacs. If you only really need USB and you have a USB-C port on your computer, the Apple Dongle is very cheap and a decent dac. As far as a desktop amp, there's the SMSL SA100 for $74 and the Topping PA3 for $105 as options for you.
http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Fi-Man-EF2A-Tube-Headphone/dp/B004357WL8
I'll be investing in this little thing very soon, seems promising!
Thank you for the help. I actually need a little more help i looked a little deeper and i found two other actual tube amps and i believe they are a much better choice, but then which one.
Litte dot MKII: http://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=pd_cp_MI_2
HIFIMAN - EF-2A: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMAN-EF2A-HIFIMAN-EF-2A-HEADPHONE/dp/B004357WL8/ref=pd_cp_MI_3
You own some? I am looking at this dac/amp as well as some others 2 3 4 5 and if you have any insight I would love to hear it before I burn another hole in my tight budget.
got one of these if interested
Ahhh this one. Looks interesting and seems to be right what I'm looking for.
I have an E17. Since this is a combination DAC/amp, is it inadvisable to use it with another amp? I'd like to have an O2. My understanding is that if I bought this line out connector I would be bypassing the amplification of the E17 and it would be fine to use it with an O2. Is there any problem with this plan?
The reviews on Amazon seem to be backing me up, but I feel like I can trust the users here more to point out any issues.
I'm not sure if the E7 has FiiO's 18 pin connector, but they do make an attachment that bypasses the amp section and adds a line out to a few of their portable amps. You could look into that.
EDIT: Yup. The E7 has the connector. This would add line out.
I'm not familiar with the E17, but it looks like they sell an attachment for it that adds a line-level output bypassing the amp section for about $10. It'd be cheaper than a new independent DAC
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-L7-Line-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S
This one is supposed to work on the e7 and e17. also I'd use toslink over USB myself, though the difference is minimal. I've noticed slight noise with usb DACs, though only while listening to silence and under high amplification, so maybe it isn't significant enough to matter.
This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.
I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.
As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.
/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.
Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out
>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.
In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.
You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.
All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.
I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.
.
.
.
^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.
Is the DAC component of the e17 fully transparent like DACs such as the odac and Modi? I have a Violectric V100 that I need a DAC for and I have an e17. If the e17 is transparent I want to get a line out dock ( http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-L7-Line-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S/ref=pd_sim_e_5 ) for it to bypass the amp component. If it's not, I'll probably get this dac- http://www.violectric.de/Pages/en/products/usm-24-96.php .
If I get the vio DAC I would most likely sell the e17.
Most TVs should have Optical or Aux out, and then you would use a L7 to give a line out connection to your amp.
no i dont need to. but i liked how loud they were able to drive my speakers, 50wpc, as well as the small size. i just figured those were both properties of class T.
i probably dont need anything more than 100w for the 2 speakers.
edit: i'd found this one, but i didn't like how it was half the power of the dta-100a http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP21-Digital-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B005CRLZGE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349275317&sr=8-1&keywords=topping+amp
Having a little trouble working out what additional things I might need for adding a subwoofer to my audio setup
Currently I have:
Fluance SX6 x 2 [(link)] (https://www.amazon.ca/Fluance-SX6-Definition-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B00067OS0A/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464721749&sr=1-4)
Topping TP21 amplifier (link)
If I'm looking to add a this to the mix and have the entire set hooked up to my computer. Would I need to buy anything additional?
I'm still not completely sure what the distinction between an amp and a receiver is. This is probably a really dumb/obvious question but would this Lepai or Topping be what I need?
Looking at an entry level computer speaker setup, mix of gaming and music, maybe some movies but not a priority.
Budget was 100$ but I blew through that my first hour of reading Zeos' guides. New budget is 200$ or as close to that as possible with great sound.
I live in a more remote state with very sparse options on craigslist, and I've only had bad experiences with eBay.
Questions:
Which of these ones do you think would be what I needed for the Miccas?
Dayton DTA-120 60WPC w/ headphone
Topping TP21 25WPC w/ headphone
Topping TP22 30WPC
SMSL SA-60 60WPC
SMSL SA-50 50WPC
I think I'm missing something about the Toppings, is there a reason they are the same price as the others but with only half the WPC?
Well I'm not in a huge rush to get anything. Would it be worth while using the Topping TP21 while I search for an amp? I plan on using it for both my DT770 pro's and Wharfdale SC-M1's I was In all honesty the longer I wait the larger my budget can be.
Any amps I should look out for while I continue looking?
Would this T-AMP be ok? Do I need to buy any other cables to hook up the amp?
And thanks a bunch for answering.
Edit: Would this work out fine instead?
The Schiit Modi/Magni stack is one of the more popular stacks.
The Aune T1 is a good all in one kit.
I'd head over to /r/headphones or /r/audiophile and read their FAQs or ask around there for more suggestions. If you go with the Shiit stack you can start with just the Amp and then get a DAC later on if you felt you needed it. You probably won't unless you're listening to audiophile level stuff (lossless music) but an Amp might be nice for higher end headphones.
A decent soundcard that you would be able to tell the difference over mobo audio is going to run you $100+ anyways so I think pricewise you get more bang for your buck with an external setup unless you're looking for other features like surround outputs, virtual surround, Dolby stuff, or voice augmentation.
A DAC/AMP combo will make a huge difference. I have almost the same headphones as you at work, and love my Aune T1 http://i.imgur.com/O9cVWal.jpg . I listen about 4 hours a day so it was a worth while investment for me at $200. I put a better Genalex Gold Lyon tube in it for $35 too. Sounds incredible, can't belive what I was missing.
A Fiio EO7K would be about half that at $89. Portable, pretty good sound but you really got to crank it with my DT990s.
Aune T1 - http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411543816&sr=8-2&keywords=Aune+t1
Fiio EO7K -http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411543301&sr=8-1&keywords=E07k
No, I have never tried the Vali. Though I have heard that it's decent, but has issues with hissing and microphonics. But considering the price, it is good starter tube amp.
The Aune T1 is also a pretty good since it's a tube amp and a dac.
Then Id agree with explosivo563 on the e10k. If you can save some extra money this is definitely worth the extra
> Aune T1
https://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
This thing?? i'm a little confused on what this is, but geez that price tag
No ceiling fan or anything. I have it between my monitor and my speaker so really, not much air flow to begin with. I do have the "upgraded" version that was sold my earthsoundcity or something like that. I wasnt even sure what was upgraded but maybe they changed the heatsinks or whatnot? I just went with upgraded because I figure its gotta be different than standard (stupid I know). But yeah, almost zero heat on the unit powering my full sized headphones. Schiit amps, those suckers got hot.
http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Upgrade-Version-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375981847&sr=8-2&keywords=aune+t1
Just did a little research. The general consensus is that the HE-500's need 1W of power to fully maximize their potential, their impedance being 38 ohms. The T1 apparently supplies 1W at 32 ohms, so I'd imagine that the new T1 would be plenty of power to drive the HE-500's at a reasonable volume.
Am I using correct logic?
DAC : https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
AMP : https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-Ocean-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QKSVI
is this any good ?
I have a pair of 598s I use for gaming as well as music production/listening to music. They sounded great before I added an amp. After I added an amp, however, they sounded amazing. An amp for these headphones is not necessary for quality sound, but if you have the extra cash it definitely makes a difference.
This is the amp I'm using by the way. Coupled with a xonar dx soundcard.
https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-Ocean-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QKSVI
Hi, although this isn't DIY I hope my question is still permitted here! I bought a Bravo Audio Ocean headphone amp (https://www.amazon.ca/Bravo-Audio-Ocean-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QKSVI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486524074&sr=8-8&keywords=headphone+amp) and accidentally tilted the tube to the left; I subsequently gradually tilted it back until it was facing straight up again. It sounds fine and nothing seems wrong, but I'm just paranoid that I must've bent the pins or something else by doing this. Do I have anything to worry about? Thanks in advance!
Yeah I know that's the price everywhere right now, but I thought I remembered them usually being around 4-500 Canadian, I just don't know if the price was always that low or if it's actually a sale.
I use the Behringer UMC-404 with my DT-1350's right now. I'm a little wary of using an audio interface as a headphone amp, but I feel the 1350's do benefit from it.
....maybe I'll buy a dedicated amp this boxing week idn.
EDIT: perhaps this(Bravo Audio Ocean Tube amp) connected to the line out of my UMC-404?
Hey, just thought I'd give you an update since you helped me so much. I'm currently in the middle of saving up to buy furniture and stuff for my new home (because I'm done living the squatters college life), so I'm a bit tight on budget. I still 100% plan on buying the LCD2C in a month or 2 after my saving is done, but I decided to go out on a limb and buy an amp to kind of get a baseline of how much better it makes the quality and I wanted an amp that would serve me for multiple headphones for a while until I could save up for better equipment. Also wanted a good baseline and not drop too much when I didn't know what i was doing.
​
So, I did some research and found this little guy for $90.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QKSVI/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
​
It came in the mail today and I've been grooving to the beat the whole day. What I noticed before is still true now, but the amp really brought my headphones alive more than they even had been before. And for a pretty cheap price, I think it's a good baseline (even though I don't know what a good baseline is because this is my first amp) I still wanted to thank you again!
You've helped a lot! And I'm excited to get my new LCD2C and hear the difference with those and the HD650's!
The Bravo seems decent but I just don't trust cheap Chinese tube amps, especially when they don't post full measurements (I wonder what they're trying to hide?)
But, under $114, on Amazon, there isn't really much in choices. The Bravo plus a warm sounding tube, like this one, will fit the bill.
I also would recommend this. It offers more flexibility because you change tubes and opamps to mod your sound. You can also adjust gain with it unlike the Ocean.
if you want a tube amp, then look for a little dot:
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-6JI-standard-Headphone/dp/B00A2QM5O6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541588044&sr=8-5&keywords=little+dot&dpID=41VfvJT3eeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
If you just want something cheap to properly power your headphones, get a cheap dac/amp like smsl, or the fiio e10k:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1541588108&sr=8-13&keywords=smsl
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541588171&sr=8-3&keywords=fiio
they will sound much better then that cheap hybrid or a phone, but they are obviously not the best thing ever.
You can't really go wrong with a Magni for the price. It's a great little solid state amp and will drive your DT990's to the volumes you'd want.
It's really solidly built and even comes with a 2 year warranty.
Just a suggestion as it's as at the top of your price range, do some research on tube amplifiers. The Little Dot 1+ Tube Amp is on Amazon for $116 right now. Granted Tube amps aren't for everyone it's just another route you could go as the Little Dot is customizable. You can change the Tubes and OpAmp in it to fine tune your experience. There's tons of pages on HeadFi about different tubes and OpAmps.
TUBE AMP & DAC HELP REQUEST:
You want warm? You will need to properly amp them. Also, tubes can help warm them up even more. Check out this great amp called a little dot for only 115. Best tube amp under 300 no doubt.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QM5O6/
You are referring to this one right? https://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O. Sorry on mobile and at work so can't format fast enough.
Thanks for the reply. I suppose I don't necessarily need the background, just on the equipment that I need.
I'm necessarily on a budget, but I would like to maximize the performance of the headphones as best as possible, without going "overboard." I like the idea of a combo amp/DAC, but I'm not sure on the best options at a decent price. I found these to go with:
https://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflower-Electronics-Desktop-Objective2-ODAC/dp/B00TQ2JDAG
What are your thoughts?
Copy and pasted from a message:
Hey there!
I just came over your reddit post from a few months ago about you purchasing the HD 650's and I was hoping you could help a first time headphone buyer out :) I'm too scared to ask r/headphones due to my lack of knowledge on all things.
Right now I'm unsure of what to buy/ let alone what every thing does. I purchased a pair of HD 650's and am unsure of where to go next.
I hear terms like amplifier, DAC, sound card, etc. thrown around and have no idea what does what. I do everything from my laptop and was wondering what cables/ gear I need to embark on my audiophile experience :)
I currently have this amp in mind:
https://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467657105&sr=8-2&keywords=jds+labs
What do I need to know about this/ is it good enough?
Thanks so much :)
Alright so I'm horrible at researching, can I get a separate dac and amp and plug one into the other? I'm clueless can't I plug my headphones into just one of them or can I plug a dac into an amp vice versa? I've settled on the JDSlabs 02+odac
( http://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O ) would this help the volume issue?
https://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O this?
As was said by others, lose the soundcard, but with the amendment that if you ARE an audiophile, get a E10 from Fiio, or if you want even better sound, get a O2 + Odac. Next, get an i5 with a decent motherboard, then get the fastest SINGLE GPU you can get.
There is a DAC and a PREAMP.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EJ9405O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486002153&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=JDS+LABS&dpPl=1&dpID=51tjNA8WgGL&ref=plSrch
You can either get separate or combos.
The objective series of DAC and amp designs are open for anyone to view. It has a cult following and conspiracy level behind it's creation.
Also your motherboard doesn't have the newer realtek chip. Starting with the realtek 1150 audio chips (aside from bad circuit integration), there has been no point in off board sound. The next upgrade is the objective combo or studio level hardware. Of course you also need high end headphones to match.
Looking for an amplifier with remote control
Does anyone know anything about the performance of the headphone amplifier in the Topping TP32EX? https://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP-32EX-Upgrade-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00EO0SEPK - the reason I ask is because it's one of the few headphone amplifiers with a remote, and finding those is tough! No word on the quality of the headphone output specifically, and especially the output impedance, which would be a concern for most of my headphones, especially the Q701 I'd like to use most with this. I might get entry-level speakers at some point, but I most want a second amp that I could use with a remote control. I might just have to bite the bullet, but maybe there's some impressions on this thing somewhere that I haven't seen yet.
I concur with u/donFrio on the Apple TV and wireless hdmi to projector.
My current solution in the house is to use the Apple TV as the receiver for just video (I don't have any gaming systems). You can get a wireless HDMI Switcher for the PS4 and XBone (in the link below) to switch between the VIDEO feeds.
Ultimately you would have all the gadgets (appleTV, PS4, XBone, bluray) in the table by the screen, connect them all to the HDMI switch input. Connect the HDMI switch output to the wireless HDMI transmitter and VOILA, hdmi transmitter wirelessly transmits whatever media you want to the projector.
On the audio side it would probably be recommended to get a receiver of some kind since you have so many different devices you would have to switch audio on...or just keep using the bluray player as a receiver??
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_2
http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHS5S-Switching-Switcher-Selector/dp/B008YLHBEA
To get audio from apple tv to a receiver:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETDTAP-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I?ie=UTF8&ref_=de_a_smtd&showDetailTechData=1#technical-data
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO0SEPK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2QBDDP1A9ZG7E&coliid=I2IQN66AYBRON
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-SVZa7aCH8
Items I already have: ATH-M50x headphones, an AT-LP60 turntable, and a desktop pc w/o a soundcard
Items I want to get: speakers & an amp/dac
Is there a way I can just have one amp accept input from my turntable and computer and output to both my headphones and speakers?
I found this which I'm pretty sure will do the job, but is there a better option? Or is it better to get separate speaker/headphone amps?
Any help is appreciated!
Any thoughts on the Topping TP-EX2?
Haven't seen any reviews on it or anything and it looks O.K. Topping in general doesn't exactly blow people's minds but it packs a lot of features into a cheap, small package.
SMSL SapIV or Topping NX1 portable amp
yep, wait and wait
Just checked that amazon price for this amplifier is $75.
I don't have any experience with it but it seems like the Topping NX1 might be a good fit. Its significantly larger than something like the Fiio e6. You could put some small rubber feet on that and use it as a desktop amp but it would still be small enough to use as portable. That is what I currently do with my Fiio e12 and it works great.
you can go cheaper if you lose the DAC/amp combo and just look for an amp. that's 100% your call for your tastes tho. Topping NX1 Amp - 40$
I'm looking at getting these exact same ones! I'm wondering what I need to do in terms of an amp to get good sound quality out of them. I don't want to go bananas on equipment, as I'm spending most/all of my budget on just the headphones.
What's a good band-for-buck amp that could work to power these cans? I don't need anything portable. I posted in the daily thread, but no responses yet.
I'm thinking the Topping NX1 will do the trick?
I use a little topping portable headphone amp with my KRKs and Galaxy S4 to rectify this. I set my gain to unity on KRK, phone volume all the way up and theb I can use the amp as a volume control.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFMNR4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1416952446&sr=1-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
I picked up one of these to have wireless audio for my phone but also able to use any headphone I want.
I usually have it plugged in at my desk at work and my phone in my pocket. When I walk away from my desk I don't have to carry my headphones with me or even touch my phone when I come back to reconnect.
I have a M50x and use soundblaster as my DAC and love it. I've also heard great things about dragonfly DACs, but I think they're a little pricier. Really audio quality is one of those things where you can either differentiate it well or not at all, like wine. If you can appreciate the difference going from a cheaper pair of headphones to your M40x, getting a DAC might make the quality even better. If you can't really hear the difference between your M40x and, say, a ~$30 pair or decent earbuds, a DAC might be a waste. Its kind of subjective
$100 street, but priced a bit lower from third party sellers/eBay, as it has been around for three years:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J79KNPM
>Objective 2 and Odac combo
Is this one of the amps?
https://www.amazon.ca/Mayflower-Electronics-Desktop-Objective2-ODAC/dp/B00TQ2JDAG/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00TQ2JDAG&pd_rd_r=b1789ccb-dbe7-11e8-9e03-b70fca3dee9b&pd_rd_w=E40Vg&pd_rd_wg=2Xu41&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=C1GK6CZZ9AAQ4X9SHCP9&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=C1GK6CZZ9AAQ4X9SHCP9
Where do you usually buy this stuff? I checked amazon.co.uk but they don't have this. I don't know where to buy high end audio around here. I used thomann.de but they don't seem to have headphone amps either.
I'll probably go with the magni2 + objective2 if that's the standard choice then if I can find a place to buy them in EU. Do you have anything for amplifier that can output for both the headphones and a pair of speakers or is that not a common audio solution.
EDIT: So you're refering to these two devices right?
https://www.amazon.com/Magni-2-Uber-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00SCBX6FA
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflower-Electronics-Desktop-ODAC-Rev/dp/B00TQ2JDAG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482504023&sr=1-2&keywords=objective+2+odac
i have nexus player for my netflix and terrarium machine. it's old but since i don't use it heavily, it works ok for my needs so i don't really need an upgrade for now.
yes. my plan is to connect my external hdd to the pi. i already checked and i think i'm gonna use volumio for that. from what i have research, those rpi hifi use hifiberry parts. but hifiberry might overkill for me because i wanna connect the pi to this right here o2 odac but the input at the back is only a mini usb. do you think it will work?
I’m not sure, it doesn’t say what cord input it is
Mayflower Electronics Desktop Objective2 ODAC Rev B. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQ2JDAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-0w-AbJH8FW5J
I think it says the o2 comes with a 6.5m jack but my headphones are 6.3m— but those are close enough together right~?
for sennhiser hd 800, should i go Mayflower Electronics Desktop O2 / ODAC Rev B. or should i use Valhalla 2 Headphone Amplifier by Schiit with their modi uber 2? is the mayflower even good enough?
Alright I'll go with these if there aren't any other recommendations.
Just to be clear its this and this right? Seems it comes with an RCA cable so I should be good (?)
Can't upvote this enough.
I use the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x studio headphones for my PC and PS4 with a portable DAC and gaming headsets can't compare.
I highly recommend the ATH-M50x headphones to anyone in the market for a $125-150 headset.
I have this model Fiio :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VET0NZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Probably would let go for 80$
My copy/paste skills failed me. I meant to paste this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VET0NZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1478099332&sr=8-13&pi=AA140_QL70&keywords=Fiio
I'd also recommend a portable amp for some extra bass and power. Good luck on your search.
yeah. i bought an amplifier to connect two BOKSES. but with that thing you can go like crazy loud and have even more bass. but never turn it to max because the BOKS will shut down xp here is the link. (works only with AUX but you can connect a bluetooth-receiver with AUX-Connection to it like i did)
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00X67G77O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XbHtDbRNZQTY1
Well it's not overly cheap if you want to be able to control the volume. It's really just a splitter that takes the composite output from the Wii, feeds one branch to the TV, and the other to a 3.5mm adapter that then goes into a small amp that you plug your headphones into. The amp is really just a volume control, and by itself is $30, so if you don't care about being able to adjust the volume (I don't think it's too loud otherwise), then you can get the price down to under $15.
I may not be reading this right, but on the Syba site for the USU07 it says:
"UAU07 equipped Hi-End Cmedia CM66xx USB Audio Controller supporting Asynchronous Transfer, ASIO and WASAPI. Wolfson WM8740 inside gives you High Resolution 192Khz 24bits conversion."
It also looks like M-Audio is rebranding another Sybasonic device as this
Ran into the same issue you're having w/ my AFTV3 last year, and after constantly querying Google for a resolution, I bought these 2 devices which enhanced my soundbar's audio output immensely: SUCA Audio DAC and this M-Audio Bass Traveler (optional, bass booster). TL;DR: basically the audio output of the AFTV device connected to your soundbar is gimped due to the nature of that device and so using a DAC (digital audio converter) could help mitigate this issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Aune-X1S-384KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B014FBZCCA this is one of them.
Would it be better for me to use an external DAC at this price point? For example I have and am currently using the aune x1s as a DAC without the headphone amplifier. would I get a better sound if I paired it with the pioneer you linked earlier than the Onkyo? I guess what I'm trying to say, is the onkyo's internal DAC any good?
Amazon price for reference.
Aune X1S. Only amp that would drive my stupid 600 Ohm headphones. There are much, much cheaper options that work just fine.
but take a look at this one
https://www.amazon.com/Aune-X1S-384KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B014FBZCCA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480026504&sr=8-1&keywords=aune+x1
for 80$ dollar more u get confirmed zrevieuw posetive :Xd
i mean if i compare that to the cheeesy usb thing lol i dunno like u said it looks like Realy cheesy u can fit 20 of them usb in 1 aune :P so i dunnno like if its 80+ more dollar for much more bang i would pay what do u think?
I currently have a SMSL SD793-II and was wondering if upgrading to a SMSL Sanskrit 6th gen/FiiO K5 would be worth it, or even an improvment.
The tube amp you linked is a speaker amp, not really designed for headphones. For your price range, there aren't any good tube amps. I would get a solid state amp. For rock, I like anything from Grado. Check out the SR325 (https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Prestige-Series-SR325e-Headphones/dp/B00L1O2PDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468937044&sr=8-2&keywords=grado) and maybe a Fiio k5 amp to go with them (https://www.amazon.com/K5-Docking-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B01BBX1NNM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1468936968&sr=8-9&keywords=fiio+amp).
Yeah it's confusing. If it has a headphone jack and a volume knob you can call it an amp. If it also has a digital or USB input you can call it a DAC/AMP. If it only has analog audio input then it is a dedicated amplifier. If it only has RCA or XLR outputs and no headphone jack than it's a dedicated DAC with no headphone amplifier.
Some decent combination DAC/AMPS are Schiit Fulla at $90, Audioengine D1 at at $170, Soundblaster E5 at $200, Fiio E10k $80. Those are all USB and easy to use and install.
You could also go with a PCI sound card and install it in your computer. If you do I highly recommend any of the Asus Xonar or Essence soundcards which vary in price from $50 up to $270
A cheap stand alone amplifier would be something like a Fiio K5 $109, Schiit Magni 2 $120
A cheap stand alone DAC would be something like a Musicstreamer III $160 , or a Schiit Modi 2 $120 (i didn't like it's sound but others do), etc.
If you are not having any noticeable issues, such as distortion, hissing, noticeable noise floor, an external DAC will likely not improve the sound. I’d grab an iEMatch to ensure there are no output impedance issues as that can bloat, distort, and muddy up, especially the low end in sensitive headphones.
I have hissing issues with my ciems, specifically the Noble Kaiser Encores and the Unique Melody Miracles.
When the source is my phone (Samsung Galaxy S8) and my laptop (HP Spectre x360) the hissing is pretty bad. I usually listen to tidal/spotify.
When the source is my desktop (I use O2 + ODAC) I don't have hiss at all.
I don't want to lug around a dac/amp so my question is would the IFI IEmatch or [EarBuddy] (https://www.amazon.ca/Ear-Buddy-Headphone-Optimizer-Travel/dp/B075PVVHF5) help? If so, which one of the 2 would you recommend?
Thanks for reading
A DIY solution would obviously be the cheapest. All you'd need to make one yourself is some suitable, male and female connectors, and resistors suitable values.
But wait, now on reading your opening post again and checked - your soundcard only has a combo audio out + mic TRRS socket, correct? I'd say hold on with DIY adapter idea for now! I don't know if that schematic on the diyaudioheaven site could be directly applied into making an adapter for mic-equipped headphones. At least AFAIK, in-line mic controls work via the button presses causing impedance changes in the mic section of the wiring, that are then interpreted as various commands, so I'd figure the mic would continue working fine as long as that was just included in the DIY adapter (naturally outside the resistors), but perhaps a 'better safe than sorry' approach would be best here. Hopefully someone with more knowledge could chime in.
While not quite 150% what the soundcard costs, there's the iFi iEMatch - around 100% of the Soundblaster's price. And in-line mics reportedly don't unfortunately work with it.
Seems like a tricky situation here... :|
>I also had an idea to put a 300 ohm resistor in line with the usb 2.0 Vcc wire (using usb 2.0 male to female extension cable) but I'm not sure if that would give me what I need
You mean between the computer and the dongle soundcard? That won't work.
In case you ever want to take a stab at some seriously high end IEMs again, but you notice that they're far too loud and have that hiss, look into the iFi iEmatch. It reduces gain on loud sources making even overpowering and hiss amplifiers play nice with IEMs like the Andromeda.
One is a simple solution, the other is a more complete solution. I'd recommend something kind of in the middle.
https://www.amazon.com/E6-Portable-Audio-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01LYYKP29/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485233141&sr=8-3&keywords=fiio%2Be7&th=1
It will solve the output impedance issue that the lightening adapter would, while also amping and providing a slightly cleaner signal to the cans.
Something like this or this would be better though, since they're more portable and don't take much extra space to set up. I believe portable music amps use better components than line splitting amps as well. The line splitting amps don't seem to display specs.
>Are you confident that this could be the solution?
Yes, this is the purpose of an AMP, and all portable DACs have built in AMPs since they are needed for it to work. A portable DAC will connect over USB and output over 3.5mm. A portable AMP will take a 3.5mm in and output over another 3.5mm connector.
Portable DAC & AMP: Fiio K1 (75mW @ 16 Ohms) $39.98
Much more powerful one: Fiio Q1 (190mW @ 32 Ohms) $69.99
Portable AMP only: Fiio A1 (78mW @ 16 Ohmes) $27.99
More powerful one: Fiio A3 (450mW @ 16 Ohmes / 270mW @ 32 Ohmes) $59.99
I had the same problem - Buy a FIIO Amp and run it in-line between the USB adapter and the headset. PS4 doesnt put out a lot of power for headsets.
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Something like this will do:
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https://www.amazon.com/A1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B01LYYKP29/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539716260&sr=1-6&keywords=fiio+amp
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They have a lot of models depending on what you want to pay. This is a cheaper one.
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I ended up buying an Astro MixAmp but thats a more expensive option.
It's not ideal, but the Wii U and 3DS' low volume -- even with high-quality headphones -- led me to buy one of these guys. I was hoping to retire it for the Switch, but that hasn't been the case. It makes a massive difference.
The Topping DX3 Pro is in amazon for $176.
I run a MX3 but don’t think it’ll drive any of those speakers Well as it’s 35-40 watts per channel and maybe 25 watts Clean......
I would run a receiver but if you can’t then stronger mini amp Like SMSL SA98e but it doesn’t have remote or headphone amp - just an amp. You could run a mini stack - dac/Headphone amp Plus an amp but would be above your Budget at $180-$250ish up to $400ish
PSAudio Sprout II would drive your any of current speakers including towers and is also a dac and headphone amp and remote But runs $599
BUT it’s American Made with Good Quality and Warranty and Support.
https://www.psaudio.com/products/sprout100-integrated-amplifier
I would keep the towers and sell the Rest and get a Sprout II or a ChiFi mini stack..........
SMSL AD18 might drive the Polk 70s but Not to potential. It’s weak point is the headphone amp from what I read...........but will drive Lower ohm headphones
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01M3ULDG9
.
https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3
Or (no remote)
https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B006IPH5H2
Or ( no remote)
https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Converter-Headphone-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B07G2NQYLX
Plus
https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN
Or
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-98E-TDA7498E-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01N19ZHVV
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO
All the Chinese made amps overrate the wattage or post max wattage at 4 ohms in distortion level - either way Clean wattage at 8 ohm is usually much lower.......
Or Sell Everything and get the MX3 and Bookshelf Speakers.
MX3 has some quality issues reported - Mine has been Great for 2 months till other day usb/optical quit working - I tried to take it apart to look for bad/cold solder joints but couldn’t get the board out more than 1” so put it back together and it’s working Again ? - Not Sure about longterm use on this thing.......
If you get the DX3 Pro make sure you get the LDAC version. This is the v2 of the original and they fixed the big issue in the Z Review (switching between full line out and pre-out is now a separate option and not available in the output cycle) and also some quality issue that caused the unit to die prematurely.
https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=topping+dx3+pro&qid=1569144000&sr=8-4
I have the DX3 Pro LDAC and love it and yes you can do what you want. To switch between Full Line out and Pre-Out when using it in DAC mode requires you to unplug power then hold the volume wheel and apply power then navigate to the option and select full line out or pre-out. This is covered in the manual. You can no longer accidentally switch to full line out and blow your speakers on the device or remote like you could in the original.
Double pressing on the volume wheel cycles between DAC, Headphone, and DAC/Headphone at the same time. And also Bluetooth if you have it enabled. Then single pressing on the volume wheel cycles between inputs. Wish you could reverse this but you can't. I cycle between outputs more than inputs.
These have powered amps for passive speakers as well as a preamp with digital inputs, bluetooth and headphone amp.
Preamp only (without a speaker amplifier) -
This one doesn't have a headphone amp built in- you'd need a separate one -
I assume you mean USB for your phone, right? That's what makes sense. I've not seen many DAC/Amps with an analog Aux line in...
The FiiO K3 is close, but doesn't have an analog out.
The Schiit Fulla has line or variable analog out (in addition to headphone) but no optical.
The AudioEngine D1 and SMSL M7 look like they have all of it, but are above your budget a bit.
But please check the features and confirm for yourself.
I'm not the guy for a headphone recommendation - spent too many years with a pair of Sony MDR-7506 (which I think are great)
As for the mic and DAC/amp - like I said, you can't go wrong with a ModMic 5 and either a Schiit Fulla or a Micca Origain G2
Antlion
The Schiit
Micca Origain g2
/ the above DAC/amps are good and function on USB power, so they're portable
First off, welcome to the party, pal.I've been really happy with the SMSL 793-II that I picked up on ebay for <$50 a few years ago. I've got very sensitive headphones and don't need much power. That said, I'm looking at upgrading to a DAC over USB and a JDS Labs Atom amp.
Lots of great bang/buck stuff out there under $100.
https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4
Has a nice look to it, nice feeling volume control and is both DAC/AMP. Amazon has a $20 off coupon on it right now. That'll be over budget after tax etc. but it's a decent option. This subreddit has lots of stuff from people upgrading.
Any entry-level DAC/AMP is going to be worlds better than your 3.5mm out jack on your PC.
you will probably get the most mileage out of nice headphones and a headphone preamp like maybe some AKG K7XX and a cheap amp like a Schiit Fulla, that way when you get monitors you can just plug them into the desktop amp.
https://drop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones
https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4/
an Audio Interface is pretty cheap too tho, and it will do the same stuff as a preamp(usually includes preamps)
Popular Choices are also around 100-150 bucks for starter gear.
Head on over to r/headphones a lot of people seem to like the Schiit Magni 3 Headphone Amp and Preamp
Tons of great recommendations over there. I personally am looking myself. That brand seems to be the general consensus for a mid range audio upgrade
I have the DT990 Pro 250 Ohm and I use a dedicated sound card. The motherboard will definitely not be enough to power them properly.
A few suggestions:
Those are the sound card suggestions. There are also Amps and DACs that sit outside the PC and power the headphones:
There's obviously even better/more expensives one but you get the idea. Just google DT990 Pro soundcard/amp/dac and there will be loads to read.
Good luck and enjoy the headphones.
Firstly, thanks for all taking the time to help out with your suggestions. I have one more. I am thing of adding this for using headphones with the LP120X. Any suggestions? https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Magni-Headphone-Amp-Preamp/dp/B07KWJ9QMN/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2TKXO6E6Q07B7&amp;keywords=magni+3&amp;qid=1566972204&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=magni+%2Caps%2C188&amp;sr=8-3#customerReviews to
Entry level user here. I just bought an AT-LP-120 USB and I want to listen mainly with headphones. I'm thinking of getting the Schiit Magni 3 Headphone Amp and Preamp for that purpose.
Is this all I'll need to start listening with headphones? The turntable came with two output cables.
Also, if I decide to get speakers in the future, will this setup be OK, or will I need another piece of equipment to get the speakers working? Thanks all!
https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Magni-Headphone-Amp-Preamp/dp/B07KWJ9QMN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=FULLA&qid=1574915553&smid=A2MQBWZ25GS6JU&sr=8-3
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is this with the deal suits me better than (Schiit fulla 3 / Sound BlasterX G6 / Massdrop Objective 2 / FX AUDIO DAC-X6 )
i know their is more to dac/amp than simple answers but i am clueless at the moment about this stuff and will build knowledge along the way (also i dont want to miss the discount session)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07KWJ9QMN/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2MQBWZ25GS6JU&amp;psc=1
This one is decent enough and a good starting point. Relatively cheap and will greatly improve the quality of sound!
It's strong enough to power nearly any headphones, but I don't know, I am always a little nervous of Monoprice audio gear. It's kind of... meh.
I am sure you'd get better performance at a better price out of something by Topping, SMSL or similar.
And at the same price point there's this which seems to get great reviews: Bravo Audio Ocean Headphone Amp
Little Dot 1+. It's a great sounding tube amp. It has a very utilitarian and functional enclosure, especially given the bulbous toroidal transformer cover on the back, but I've grown very fond of it. It's definitely a visual step up from the average solid state amp like the O2.
It's not perfect but hey, it's only just over $100 and included tubes to get you started.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00HFMNR4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491597352&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=topping+nx1a
I just ordered this, was way cheaper with similar reviews https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00X67G77O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1