(Part 3) Best hobby tool paints according to redditors
We found 614 Reddit comments discussing the best hobby tool paints. We ranked the 181 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
57. Tamiya America, Inc Paint Mixing Jar 46cc W/Measure, TAM81042
2 mentions
Ages: 8+Tamiya P/N: 81042
Put a layer of clearcoat over it. Something like this would probably do nicely. Just be sure to mask off the touchpad, etc. I'd suggest taking the computer's top bezel off to do so.
I believe they actually cast the shells custom and that would explain the exorbitant price and limited availability.
A method that I have always figured would work would be to just lightly mist some red paint (this stuff would probably work best) on the shell. If you get proper paint and actually do the prep work, it should be reasonably durable. The finish will wear off over time though.
When I made my Latios/Latias GBA, I started with a clear shell (I was taking wear and tear into account and I figured clear would be cooler than black). I used black primer and when I applied it, I did it in very thin layers. Before I applied my base coat, my shell looked like a smoke black version.
Most painters have their preferences. I prefer Citadel but it's pricey. I've been using it ever since they were the only ones to offer spray primer and at this point I'm just used to how it reacts and know how to work with it well and IMO it's better quality. Army Painter spray primer is fine too though.
To my surprise, when researching primers on Amazon, I found that the Army Painter primer is only one dollar cheaper than the GW Citadel primer so in that case I would definitely go with Citadel. It has two negative reviews by people who haven't bought it and think it's too expensive even though the AP primer costs basically just as much, but I guess that's the anti-GW circlejerk for you.
Get a respirator with gas/vapour filters, the amount of paint you'll see on the filters after just a couple of uses will justify it! I got this kit: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/3M-6000-Half-Mask-Airbrushing-Pack-3M6000ABK.html and am happy with it!
I sprayed without it a couple of times and felt light headed afterwards, and was blowing paint out of my nostrils for a while after, I always use the mask since.
Because of the cats, an extracting painting station is a good idea if you can paint near a window or other outlet for the pipe, but you'd want to self build one with a really meaty fan (sealed bathroom extractor), as the generic kits you can buy tend to have a very low flow computer fan in them that simply doesn't do anything at all.
I have this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Spray-Booth-Extraction-Filter/dp/B0050BQQUW
And the fan just is nowhere near strong enough. For now I run a normal household fan pointing at the painting area which is right next to an open window.... and hope for the best! At some point I will replace the fan as it really is not good enough right now.
At the very least, a cardboard box to catch overspray is a must.
As for the airbrush itself, I got this kit and its excellent https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JAJTKWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the compressor and tank are absolutely great, the airbrush is cheap but very cheerful, I may get another for more precise work later but for now it's plenty! Make sure to remove the plug from the bottom of the tank after every use to let condensation drain out and avoid rust.
Useful accessories:
You spray cleaner through the airbrush into this pot as its a harmful chemical when atomised, the pot catches and collects the liquid cleanly and safely. Has a filter where the air comes out.
I hope that's all helpful :)
I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Daemonic-Yellow-Primer/dp/B004VEO1TC
Army Painter Daemonic Yellow Spray Primer
Looking it up now, it seems that this is some shit quality paint. Unfortunate, I don't have an airbrush and was looking for an easy way to paint my Imperial Fists.
yea darkining the metal instead of painting over it looks a lot nicer. If you still want some red though using careful light coats of something like this could work wonders
Thanks! You have to dissembled the joy cons which is pretty simple after my first one. 5-10 minutes each joy con.
From another reply I posted.
"You want to start off using an air brush kit. You can get some pretty cheap ones for about 80 bucks that will do the job. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q.
I have a better air brush that's about 150 bucks alone but it's because we use it for other stuff that requires more precision. You won't need something that much to do the job.
Start off taking out your joycons and cleaning it. Use grey or black primer and let it cure for 12+ hours. https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Black-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B004BN5RUU/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1494183787&sr=1-2&keywords=airbrush+black+prime
As for the paint itself, you can use any of these and it depends on what you like. https://www.amazon.com/Color-Changing-Holographic-Paint-2oz/dp/B0015H4G2K. I used the gold/green/orange/purple so it changes to any of these colors based on the angle.
For the finish, I used https://www.amazon.com/Deco-Touch-Varnish-8-Ounce-Clear/dp/B00HQME2R2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1494183686&sr=1-1&keywords=soft+touch+varnish. It gives it a really nice soft touch feel but it's very thick. You'll want to thin it out a bit and let it cure for 24+ hours. Multiple coats the better for that extra protection and long lasting feel. Although I used these here, I am finding that they will wear out eventually. I am redoing the finish with this now. https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Matt-Model-Color-Varnish/dp/B000PH9JPA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494191915&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+matte+varnish. You can also go with a glossy finish if you want as well.
I just started air brushing a few months ago so just practice on some test objects."
Man I havent seen that Signal R34 in ages..
Maybe this paint?
Yep; Mr. Surfacer is like a primer/filler, and comes in 3 grades: 500, 1000, 1200. All of the "Mr." products are at or near top-of-the-line for their jobs (they do sell "Dissolved Putty" which is functionally identical to Liquid Green Stuff); most of the "pro" gunpla I've seen use either Mr. Color (their paint is 'called out' in Bandai's instructions), Gaia Notes, or Alclad.
I think I'm going to do the same thing. I think I found it on Amazon. Did you use Tamiya TS-18 or TS-95?
This set looks like it's more appropriate for a basic set of colours, if you really want to buy in sets. https://www.amazon.com/Model-Color-Paint-Set-Folkstone/dp/B001JJRDO2/ref=sr_1_20?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1519382803&sr=1-20&keywords=vallejo+model+color+set I would recommend buying single paints though. As for the brushes - honestly I do not know any brands that are cheap, I've been using Raphael 8404 and Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes for a couple of years now - just go your nearest art store and buy a round size 0, 1 and 2, and you should be set for the beginning. You will destroy brushes quite quickly as a beginner and it's not worth investing in a good brush straight from the start.
I think you have an issue with the surface being too rough. I recommend sanding the surfaces with incredibly high grit sandpaper first, then washing. Afterwards use a product similar to Mr Surfacer (http://smile.amazon.com/Surfacer-NET-40ml-Bottle-Gundam-Hobby/dp/B002CVSZPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458249791&sr=8-1&keywords=surfacer+1200) to fill in any microscopic roughness. Then sand again. THEN prime with the Alclad primer, followed by the final chrome coats.
EDIT also, you may need to use the higher PSI to get smaller atomization, but I think the majority of your problem is surface roughness.
> is it any good with brush painting
All acrylics need a primer to “bite”. Tamiya acrylics brush paint better over a primer, just remember to add retarder and use a wet palette. It’ll make brush painting a better experience.
Vallejo Polyurethane Primer.
It's designed to be poured straight into an airbrush and it comes in multiple colours. It has to be cleaned out with Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner.
IIRCC, Tamiya has only a glossy clear spray. The only ones I know are these:
I've used Tamiya rattle cans in the past, and they are pretty fool-proof. And the Testors products are used by a lot of people, so I doubt they're much harder to use.
There's actually two things happening here. Once a model is painted you (should) varnish the model, this is especially important as it helps to keep play damage down. Before finecast arrived metal models were a particular problem as they would chip, even with most varnishes. Eventually the owner of my LGS suggested army painters quickshade (found here) as a varnish. Its great in that it helps to shade the model (be care it will darken the entire thing, esspeically the strong and dark tones), but it does result in a high gloss finish. That's why the model was so shiny in some of the WIP pics.
You then need to apply another layer of varnish to remove that effect (its quite strong). Most tend to go with a matt varnish. I personally find this to be too flat for tau, i wanted my suits to look as though they are in a clean maintained condition, so i used model master's semi-gloss lacquer which gives a small shine, that's not so strong (found here)
I can't comment on those specific inks, but I know when I tried to use Liquitex black ink, it came out very glossy, so one think to consider is how matte the ink is. I have a set of vallejo game color inks that have worked out well (https://www.amazon.com/Game-Color-Set-Inks/dp/B0016CN5MQ).
How about just mix some test washes and try some on a white primed mini? Experiment, sometimes that's half the fun :D
You'll want to use a primer! Don't worry, it took me forever to figure that out. Basically acrylic paint isn't made to stick on plastic, and it'll come off super easy. Primers are paints made to stick on things like plastic. That means that you're coating your model in a material that accepts your acrylic paint better than plastic. You can get primer from any home improvement store, but here's some links to some on amazon. They all work just fine, you just need to make sure it says "primer" somewhere on the can.
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https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249846-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS94/
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/
https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Colour-Chaos-Primer-Undercoat/dp/B000A5CHHE/
I don't match colors from the manuals. I do custom color 100% of the time.
I use these that have measurements on the side in order to measure the paint / thinner / color ratios for larger amounts of paint, but smaller amounts for details or figuring out shades / colors, I use whatever I have around. Not very picky about it.
Tamiya Paint Mixing Jar.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GEV0P4/
So this vallejo set instead of the one I linked in the originial post?
Can you elaborate on why you prefer the model colour? is it just you prefer the colours or that the paints behave differently?
To get an even coat of metallic red, I'd probably get a can of Tamiya red metallic spray paint. A couple washes of Nuln Oil will help define the scales and a fast drybrush of copper will highlight them. To make sure it looks nice and organic, I'd go back over the shadowed areas and skin folds with some purple glazes and spend extra time on the claws, teeth, horns, and eyes. You could also paint the wing membranes in more of a flesh palette. If you want to do that, it might be a good idea to mask off the membranes before you use the metallic spray.
Verbatim from the guy who taught me:
> Hey thanks! I'm glad you like them so much, it's good looking and pretty damn easy to paint. I'm happy to share my technique.
>I do each of the steps for all the dudes in a squad before moving to the next, makes it go a lot faster.
>1. Light, light, light primer layer of white sprayed from the top down and the sides at a downward 45 degree angle. I like The Army Painter White personally. This gives a bright underlayer for the yellow to pop, as well as just spread evenly. DON'T skip this step if you want a bright, bright yellow. I'd also recommend priming without the base on, if possible. I like to pin all the bits to corks and when painted/finally assembled, use a pin vise to drill mounting holes into the plastic base and glue down.
>1. Prime/Base coat with Army Painter: Daemonic Yellow Flesh Primer, It's a bit whacky, and can pool quickly, so be careful about where you spray. I like to do one model at a time on a cork so I can rotate it quickly. (wear gloves :))
>1. Once dry, wash the whole bugger with GW Casandora Yellow, being careful not to let it pool or collect into droplets. Dry for like 30 minutes.
>1. Highlight with Flash Gitz Yellow, I use a 1:1 mix of paint to water/flow improver and use a few thin layers to make it smooth. Good for evening out areas where the primer coverage isn't great. It may look like a stark contrast when you lay it down, but it dries almost indistinguishable from the primer color. This step is optional for gribblies. I have 60 Hormagaunts that I just skipped this step on.
>And that's the skin! Pretty easy, and looks great. I'd recommend a dark base color for contrast.
>If you'd like the steps for the carapace and/or weapons, happy to provide!
I skipped the highlight step on this one since I have 60 of these guys to finish, but I like the way the scheme turned out. Going to test base this and then I'll probably start on a bigger bug.
My carapace is different from his, but the general idea for it is to get a nice even coat of black, then feather on a medium-dark color and then a much brighter tint of that color over it but not quite as much, then I used the side of my brush with the lighter color to edge the corners.
Would this be ok? https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Toys-Games/Humbrol-150ml-Acrylic-Spray-Primer/B004T8TD0C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482627244&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+primer
Thanks for the help
Well, in that case, if you are going to do that, I don't recommend buying an airfix starter set (it's discussed below for completeness, but while the set of paint and cement is appealing, you'll end up throwing it all away later on aside from the paintbrush). The paints included in there almost certainly will not work well.
Go to a hobby store or something, buy a cheap airfix kit (I recommend either the Harrier FRS.1, Zero, Spitfire PR.XiX (all in 1/72), go to an art store to buy some Golden Talkon brushes (it's the name of the material; its' a super soft orangey bristle), and buy some paints (acrylic, plus a bottle of spray primer), while you're there.
See this old thread below of another beginner (though he was interested in sci fi), of tools you would need.
**That list is configured for the UK.
If you want to build plastic models, I recommend a recently issued spitfire model from Airfix, a few bottles of good, brushable paint (Model Master Acrylic is good, if you use a spray primer), and a few "golden talkon" synthetic brushes, plus tweezers and an exacto knife.
The basic starter sets you can buy are these:
Italeri: http://www.austinsmodels.co.uk/product.php/italeri_jas_39_gripen_172_scale_starter_kit/?k=:::6142968
Airfix: http://www.airfix.com/uk-en/shop/starter-sets-and-gift-sets/small-starter-sets.html.
These are gear towards children, and the quality of the paints are marginal at best. However, what it will do is give you an idea of the challenge ahead.
And some liquid cement.
As for why the long list below, there is an alternative:
Airfix, Revell Germany, Heller, and Italeri ALL make starter kits with paint and cement. However, the stuff in those are generally designed to appeal to children and would have to largely be replaced once you are "serious" about this.
The tools I recommended are more for if you're investing in the hobby for the long run with reusable, useful items you can continue to use for long periods of time.
However, if you are unsure, there's nothing wrong with one of those complete package kits. Warning though, Airfix's start kit paint is absolute garbage. but water soluble and easy to clean up. Strippable with alcohol, at least in the formulation I got a year ago.
And here's how I'd set it up:
OR: Airfix FRS 1 Harrier: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airfix-A04051-BAe-Harrier-FRS1-x/dp/B0021L9BU6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1442370019&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F72+FRS.1
**you'll notice a theme developing. These are all mostly single color builds, minus some detail work.
Or, this: http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Langnickel-Taklon-Brush-Super/dp/B001ARHH7G (probably the better choice).
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-150ml-Acrylic-Spray-Primer/dp/B004T8TD0C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369901&sr=8-1&keywords=humbrol+primer
or: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Color-Polyurethane-Primer/dp/B004BN5RYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369935&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+primer
Other items:
**Future can be found in hardware and places like walmart in the US, there is no need to order it online except for convenience.
I used Testor's Model Master Lacquer Overcoat Semi Gloss. I've used this stuff so many times before and never had this problem, but it totally melted the white coloring off the decal. I'm thinking of just removing the top coat and have already ordered waterslides that will get here someday (from overseas). Would that be a viable option to remediate?
Tamiya X20A, should also look into the Tamiya Paint Retarder if you're hand painting as they are notorious for being a bit difficult since they tend to dry quick.
Great start man!
Symmetry: Make patterns. Go grab some cardstock to do it with, it will hold up better than regular printer paper. Assuming you cut these out of craft foam, just draw a pattern that looks good, cut it out, and see how it fits. Once you have something you like, you can take that newly cut out piece of foam and lay it BACK onto cardstock and redraw it to get it just perfect. Then, when transferring it to another side, just flip it upside down. Also, make sure all your edges are glued down nicely.
Painting: Something that a lot of people don't take into account is priming their props before painting. A primer is something that allows paint to bind to the object a bit better, and gives a nice layer that wont have things showing through. I like to use Bullseye 1-2-3 and just brush it on, but it does have a spraycan option. Prime, Sand with 200~ grit, prime again, sand with 350~ grit, wipe with a damp paper towel, let dry for maybe an hour or so, then paint for best results. Also, 3-5 light layers > 1-2 heavy layers of paint. Also, if you want very customized colors and are willing to brush it on/airbrush, then you can go to the Paint section at Home Depot, find a color you want, and ask for a sample can of paint in that exact color. It's wonderful for small projects!
Here's some examples of my processes for crafting/painting
https://imgur.com/a/XkQBp
https://imgur.com/a/xcZEU
https://imgur.com/a/VCmsQ
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
I had one similar, regulating the CO2 pressure is a pain in the butt, it can spray A LOT of paint in a single push. The air "control" is in the cap that goes to the propellant can, there you have to open or close the valve depending on the pressure that you need.
I don't know what kind of connector THAT version has but if its the same as the testor I had, you will have some leaks. This is what I had:
Testors Amazing Air.
If you do not have enough funds for an airbrush, go for a spray can top coats maybe Michael's have some.
Also do you think this stuff would work?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Model-Building-Accessory-Kits/Humbrol-AD6998-Number-Enamel-Varnish/B002HE0OHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541674898&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tamiya+varnish&dpPl=1&dpID=31FoSaHlxTL&ref=plSrch
I think I found it on Amazon, though it has mixed reviews. I'll likely pick this one up though, the finish looks quite good in your photos, can't promise being able to spray it when it's sunny and warm though seeing as we're in England, haha. Also on your photos the decals look really obvious (the transparent parts), where as on some people's models they seem invisible, why's that? Thanks for the advice and it's nice to see a fellow Brit in the gunpla scene.
EVA foam
Use the tutorials from Evil Ted Smith or Punished Props for an easy to follow helmet tutorial. From there, you can modify this faceless mask to fit for the lens of the helmet. The crown itself, can be made using EVA foam as well.
As for the paint, I'm not sure if this will help, but Rust-Oleum makes a Color Shift spray paint that changes color depending on the light and angle it's viewed. Same principle for another brand Spaz Stix And finally there's this other brand, Mystic, that could work.
That's a good looking Wing Zero. Hope you had fun with the airbrush, you're really opening yourself up to a bunch of new possibilities.
It might be the lighting in the picture, but I can't really see much of the preshading. And I would recommend using a primer when painting, it will reduce any chipping your might be experiencing. I use Mr. Surfacer mixed with Mr Leveling Thinner.
Here's amazon, I got mine from ebay, but i shouldve used amazon for aster shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Color-Changing-Holographic-Paint-2oz/dp/B0015H4G2K/ref=pd_sim_21_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41igGn3J9AL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=02S1GMWBZGR0S1H3YTDZ
Depends on the shape, but I've had some success recently using these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Color-Games-Acrylic-Paint/dp/B0016CN5MQ
They're very rich and striking inks, far more than GW or AP, they might do the job.
I do Leadbelcher spray can, followed by Tamiya Clear Red spray can. Link is below. I don't have an airbrush so my options were limited to get the shiny red appearance. I heard Tamiya had a spray can version of their clear red so I decided to try it and it looks pretty good. Small can though, I've gone through 1.5 cans already.
Link:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001Q0Z4XQ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
You want some of that clear red spray paint? What kind of clear red are you looking for? The sexy kind?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Tamiya-TS-74-Clear-Red-100ml-Spray-Can-/360648384136?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item53f8519e88
UGH, SO PERFECT. IT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE THE DESTROY MODE.
http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TS-74-Clear-Spray-Lacquer/dp/B001Q0Z4XQ
Is good as well.
There is a japanese product you can find on amazon called Mr. Surfacer, it is specifically designed for fixing small imperfections/ minor gap fills, it is of paintable consistency, and sandable after application. If your spray primer doesn't give you the effect you are desiring, you may try that. I think the benefit would be that you can apply it specificlly to areas you are concerned about, and not lose other details.
It comes in various "grits"(sort of not exactly right word)..
For example https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Surfacer-NET-40ml-Bottle-Hobby/dp/B001950O3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519385061&sr=8-2&keywords=mr+surfacer
There is also a Mr liquid putty.. similar thing
edit: I haven't used these specificly on 3d printed resin before, I've used them on Metal, plastic, and casting resin, with no problems, however they are laquer based and not water based, so I'd do a test to make sure they don't react badlty to 3d printer resin first..
I've got myself these things:
Basically I first spray the mini's with the base coat and then apply the contrast paint to them. It pops out the details very well. I don't paint them with other colors. My hands are not steady enough and I just want something else than the boring grey mini's on my table.
It works for me, and I'm happy with it.