Best hobby tool paints according to redditors

We found 614 Reddit comments discussing the best hobby tool paints. We ranked the 181 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Hobby Tool Paints:

u/MeekTheUndying · 21 pointsr/DnD

A few particular items of interest from Amazon :

u/slaptac · 19 pointsr/boardgames

The Reaper: Learn to Paint kit is prolly the best place to start. Comes with a couple minis to practice on as well.

I personally started w/ P3 (Still favor them over others) But I got a Vallejo master kit in trade, so I'll be using those for some time. They're ok, a bit runny at times, but they just need to be shaken more.

u/_Despereaux · 14 pointsr/Gloomhaven

I've plugged it before and I'll plug it again - Reaper's Learn to Paint kit is probably the most budget-friendly way to dive into mini painting. It comes with a set of paints, some brushes, three minis to practice on, and a handbook that introduces you to painting techniques that get progressively more complex on each mini. Plus, it's easy to add paints to the kit's storage case if you end up enjoying the hobby.

If you go that route, I also recommend adding a bottle of red paint and a few better brushes, because the kit doesn't come with any shades of red and the two included brushes are just average. Otherwise, it's got everything you need to get started and the practice minis are a godsend (I didn't want to touch my Gloomhaven minis until I had a couple less important ones under my belt).

Edit: Just saw that the kit is a little pricier on Amazon CA. If you can find the kit on another site or at a local game store for under $45 USD or so I would still recommend it, otherwise it's worth hitting up the minipainting sub and seeing what other options they recommend for beginners.

u/meatbeater · 13 pointsr/Warhammer

As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light -

Paint -

Brushes -

u/Chugbleach · 10 pointsr/guns

What you're noticing is oxidation from the ambient air. It may give it a bit more sheen, but you could use a clear flat spray lacquer such as this to minimize the erosion over time.

As far as bringing it back - You could tumble polish the brass, but that would more or less restore it to it's unfired state, not fired. As such, leaving it as is would be my recommendation.

u/southern_boy · 10 pointsr/DnD

99.9% of the time the only way to be good at a thing for a while is to suck out loud at a thing for a bit. :)

u/Chris_Parker · 10 pointsr/minipainting

Hey OP, this is where I started: the Reaper Bones Core Skills set.

It has 3 figures, 2 brushes, about a dozen paints, and a booklet that gives you instructions and tips on how to get acquainted with the hobby. It's only $30, doesn't take a ton of space, and has pretty decent paints (brushes are like bare minimum to work, but that works because you're just getting started).

There's another kit called Layer Up! that comes with new brushes, paints, and figures, and teaches some more advanced techniques as well, so the "next step" is there waiting for you whenever you want to branch out.

I'd also grab maybe a wine cork, thread/yarn spool, or something that fits nice in your hand, plus some cheapo poster tack to help you hold a figure. The Reaper figures are supposed to be made in such a way that they don't require primer, but I still wash the minis with dish soap and a toothbrush and prime them anyway (I like Vallejo primers).

The best advice I can probably give is be patient not just with the work you do, but with yourself as well. The idea of the hobby is to have fun, create stuff, and enjoy the process/output. It doesn't have to look perfect your first go, nor should it. Give yourself the opportunity to improve and keep it relaxed.

If you've got any other questions on starting out or anything, feel free to hit me up.

u/YankeeAko · 10 pointsr/boardgames

That's what they tend to cost. I've recently been buying Vallejo acrylics because they're cheaper and they seem to do the job just as well (for my purposes anyway).

Here are a couple of options on Amazon that are a much better value than single pot Citadel purchases.

Plus, I actually like the squeeze bottles more than the pots because I don't have to dedicate a brush to getting paint out and I also tend to use less from the squeeze bottles.

Here are some Bloodbowl minis I painted using Vallejo paint.

u/bcksfan07 · 9 pointsr/boardgames

It's a little bit of an extra expense up front, but just this past week I bought this kit from Amazon:

It came with 9-10 bottles of paint, 2 brushes, 3 miniatures, and a great guide/tutorial for getting started. It gives very good step by step instructions with details on all the various painting techniques for the first miniature, then recommended paints and techniques for the other two in the box. Worked really well for me for an introduction!

Now the next step is to work up the courage to apply those techniques to Mice and Mystics and Sentinel Tactics...

u/efuller5525 · 9 pointsr/Warhammer40k

First comment:

Please upvote this by default so it stays towards the top. I'm still learning how2reddit

So I am NOT an artistic person so this is especially anxious for me. But, I needed something to keep my hands busy that wasn't masturbating, so here we are.

I have probably over studied techniques and materials, and I want this post to be a "documentary" if you will. Where someone who has no business painting is going to be doing just that.

So, I'll be documenting my pitfalls and approaches to everything here. With all of you lovely people, it'll also hopefully be a central location for someone like me or just wants to get into 40k can refer to.

Disclaimer: I'll be at work until 5pm EST. But my job is pretty cushy so I'll be adding planning details throughout the day

Tools and Such

Well, I probably overspent here. Only because I'm lazy and didn't want to make the drive to harbor freights. But then again, paying the premium to help support my local game shop is going to give me some karma in the long run. Here's the list of things that I ended up picking up:

  • Wire Cutters
    • The game shop charged me $16 for them lmao. I hate myself. But they're used to cut the pieces out of the sprues. I was using a box cutter at first, and in no time I nicked myself pretty badly. Just buy them. Again, Harbor Freights.
  • Box Cutter / Exacto Knife
    • I used it to trim off the excess from the sprues. The box cutter worked, but the exacto knife was a bit better because of the handle and the gradual width in the blade helps with control when you need it, or the finer point when you need to get into smaller areas.
  • Paint Brushes
    • So, I spent a lot on one pair and then minimal on another. The A Lot pair was from the game stop ($16 for three types), I figured these would be much higher quality when dealing with the tiny pieces. I went to walmart and bought a set of 8 as well for $5. I'm intending to use these on things like terrain because they're larger in size and hiding issues from crappy brushes is going to be easier on terrain than it will be on a mini the size of 6 quarters.
  • Filing tools
    • Honestly I'm not sure why these are needed. I thought it'd help get rid of the excess sprue on the models but it leaves a scratchy texture. I'm pissed about that. Unless someone here will tell me otherwise, just use your exacto knife
    • If you're just starting out, DO NOT GO BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY. Its too expensive. My local shop sells them for nearly $5-$8 a bottle. Buy THIS. Its a ton of typical colors and drops the individual price down to $2.80.
    • Paint sets are always going to be your best friend, from what I've found. Citadel paints for example are really expensive at my local shop (like $5-$7 each expensive) But something like this is a huge savor., bringing the unit price down to $3,63.
    • Shading seems to overhaul the look into something more professional, so you will want to buy two separately. My buddy suggested two different ones, Black and Brown.
  • Wet Pallette
    • I am yet to have this conversation without the other person talking to me like they're running for president. Wet Pallettes are a necessity. They ensure you do not waste paint, keeps your paint consistently viable while using it, and helps with storing it. I've heard a couple of days, others say months. Who knows. I'm yet to start painting, but I'm just going to say don't even mess around and just get/build one.
    • Tabletop Minions has a great video to show you how to make one for the lo-lo.
  • Mini Painting Holder
    • If you're not looking risk smudging the paint when you're holding your mini, then this is for you. Bonus points for reducing your chances of arthritis.
    • You COULD get something like THIS. But I feel that because it holds onto the sides, you can't really use it to paint the base.
    • What I ended up doing was buying 3 bottles of champagne, cutting off the top of one of them, and then gluing & duct taping it all together. I haven't tested out its balance yet but odds are, I'm going to have to do something so its stable and I can rest it on the table standing up without worry. Bonus, I was pretty drunk for a bit.

      Theory is Great and All (11.13.19)

      So here are my updates from actually painting.

  • Mini Painting Holder
    • LOL. Welp. didn't turn out as expected. Glue didn't stick and I had to use so much duct tape that it looks like a toxic sushi roll. Yum. We'll see how it works when I get to the actually mini painting.
  • Paaaaaint
    • Welp. I'm pretty sure I added too much water. I also definitely did not mix enough of it. I'm going for a deep green metallic look and only mixed enough for one coat..... lmao. Thankfully its just the 1st so I'm hoping when I mix a boatload of it, even if the hue is different, it won't matter much.
    • Wet pallete: Definitely worked out. Do it.
    • Because of the paint being too watery, you can see some spots where it pooled. Again, gonna take it easier on the water the second time around and hope it covers up the bad stuff
    • In being careful with the finer details, I didn't care too much. Some paint here and there won't change much and should be unnoticeable after a few more careful coats of the actual color I want to use, when I get there.

      Life Sucks and I haven't gotten much done (11/15/19)

      So I was only able to apply a second coat of to what I've already done. But honestly, not too shabby! Apparently I didn't water down the paint too much.

      Also, I recently switched to a different cell phone carrier, and got a $200 prepaid card.... So I'm getting these.

      There's a blog that I found (will have to find it again later) that recommended these.

u/1D13 · 9 pointsr/ageofsigmar

>Hey guys noob here trying to get into the hobby. I've just been adding up some prices and it's getting ridiculous... am I doing something wrong or is this the entry fee we're talking about? Here is my math.
>$29 - Chaos Black Spray
>$11 - Agrax Earthshade
>$6 - Lamenters Yellow
>$6 - Flash Gitz Yellow
>$6 - Yriel Yellow
>$6 - Ardcoat
>$11 - Agrellan Earth (x3)
>$6 - Kantor Blue
>$11 - Coelia Greenshade
>$6 - Lothern Blue
>$6 - Sotek Green
>$6 - Temple Guard Blue
>$6 - Ushabti Bone
>$6 - Screaming Skull
>$6 - Balthasar Gold
>$6 - Gehenna's Gold
>$6 - Khorne Red
>$11 - Carroburg Crimson
>$6 - Wazdakka Red
>Paints $179
>Start Collecting! Seraphon $140
>Essential Citadel Brush Selection $87
>Mouldline Remover $19
>TOTAL: $425
>^ This paint is for bases and Saurus Warriors only, haven't even calculated the cost of paints for the Cold One Knights and the Carnosaur yet because it was already getting out of control and this is supposed to be my intro into the hobby...

It hurts my pocket book to see people pay $11 for black primer and clear coat when you can buy the same quality of spray for ~$3-4 each.

And $6 for single colors is ridiculous. But then I don't use GW paints. I prefer army painter shade washes, and Vallejo model color or game color for regular colors. I use Rustoleum black, grey, and white primer and always have great experiences with it as long as you follow the use instructions (like don't spray when too hot or too cold or rainy). And I thought my Testors Dull clear coat was expensive at ~$8.

[Vallejo basic model color] ( 16 basic colors for $42, which is a ton better than $6 per color.

Army Painter Quickshades 11 washes for $27.50

And if you like army painter paints which they are great paints there is the starter set: Mega Paint Set by Army Painter 50 paints includingbasic colors, shade washes, and a few metallics for $90.

Don't buy into GW's propaganda, their regular paints aren't any better than other common brands like Army Painter and Vallejo, and they are a fraction of the price, usually about half the cost.

Personally I used to use exclusively GW paints and wish someone would have told me this stuff early, I would have saved a lot of money. When I started using other products I realized I didn't even like the GW method for most things. Base paints are too thick, and layer paints are the exact same as army painter or model color paints. Then you get things like acrylic medium, airbrush medium, and glaze medium which you can buy in big bottles from other companies, like Golden, which is the same gunk that GW sells for $6 per pot that you can buy from Liquitex or Golden 8 oz bottlrs for ~$10-$15.

If you're worried about getting studio colors without using GW paints then the community has you covered with the paint conversion chart.

Save yourself some money if you're worried about cost and don't overpay for GW materials when it's the same stuff across the board.

u/Fried_Cthulhumari · 8 pointsr/criticalrole

If you are starting completely from scratch, I would recommend something like the Reaper Bones starter kit because the value is excellent, it comes with a tutorial booklet, and you have a container for keeping together your supplies (which is a problem, especially as you progress in the hobby).

11 paints alone will cost you 30 bucks, and you also get two brushes, three minis, and the case. There are (slightly) cheaper ways to start but I don't think any that are as easy. Plus many of the cheaper ways to get paint or brushes means using even worse quality components which for a new painter is difficult. I have painted very nice minis in dollar store craft paint, but I also have an art degree and know exactly what to add to the paint to make crappy paint behave the way I want it to.

So that's my suggestion. Get a starter kit from reaper (or another company if you find something you like) and paint the included minis. If that floats your boat, build from there.

Your friendly local game store may have the kits even cheaper. Does hurt to call and ask.

u/_EbolaSenpai · 6 pointsr/Warhammer40k
u/clintonkilljoy · 6 pointsr/modelmakers

Thanks! Honestly I just kind of winged it. The parts that are rusty were done with the Sophisticated Finishes rust set. It's a 2 step process. You paint the area you want rusted with an iron solution, then paint it with a bluish watery substance that actually rusts it.
Everything else was done with these. Most of what you see is the orange rust. The seats have the gray, which I think does a good job replicating aged vinyl. All off the engine parts are covered in the oil stain, along with the inside of the windows.
And, of course, a good old brown/black wash on everything.

u/Ninja--Vanish · 6 pointsr/boardgames

Not a Board Game, but you can buy the reaper kit on amazon that comes with everything you need including a few minis to practice on.

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

u/redpiano · 6 pointsr/minipainting

Also, if you just want a basic set of paints for a decent price and a brush and such, this kit is solid.

u/TeeDeeArt · 6 pointsr/minipainting

the reaper bones kickstarter V is coming in a few days, oct 1 I believe, it was supposed to be 2 weeks ago but got delayed a tad.

this is THE big discounted bundle all the dm's are waiting for, the bones kickstarters are BUCKETS of the damn things, tonnes of mediocre minis with a dnd fantasy focus, for like $1 a mini. You'll never get through em all.

BUT it will take MONTHS to arrive (IIRC it took 12 for reaper bones IV? somebody who got it can confirm).

In the meantime board-games are your best bet, keep an eye on ebay and such.

Go into a games workshop on an off-time (the late night big events aren't gunna be great) and they'll take you through the whole process with a free mini. And then try to flog you all their stuff

The reaper learn to paint kit for $34us has everything you need, 2 brushes, 11(?) paints and 3 minis, as well as a guide. All that's mising is the final layer of varnish to protect your precious first paintjob.

u/neverdeadned22 · 6 pointsr/ageofsigmar
  1. If both of you are interested in either army then yes, it's a good value and starting point especially with the rulebook

  2. Yes there are cheaper alternatives like Army Painter that could get you started or even this set just to get you started with some paints. All you need is some cheap brushes to get started tbh

  3. You get a lot of use from them, I started almost 11 months ago and I still have a lot of the paint I first bought and I try to paint daily

  4. Get started and read the rules a bit, ask questions, have fun. It's easier to get in the swing by playing it and asking questions to clarify things for future games
u/rapmaster-b · 6 pointsr/minipainting

if you can afford it my vote goes to the mega paintset 2017 serval shades of the msot used colors, a brush, different metallics and washes and some kind of intro sheet how to drybrush and wash etc. you know basic beginner stuff. also it´s the biggest discount you get per bottle unless you get the complete pack which was limited and had all paints they ever produced!

advice because this is a little more work with this brand: shake the bottle like a maniac, if you think your arm starts to hurt and it´s enough, shake some more. also get mixers for the paint, dependign on materials if you use metal balls tey will rust inside the paint so i advice getting glass balls ~6mm and drop two in each paint

u/Spildatien · 6 pointsr/minipainting

The model is of Minsc and Boo, and it comes with the Nolzur's Marvelous Pigments Adventurer's Set. It's like a D&D/Army Painter colab for newbies (like me!).

The model is pretty cool tho.

u/sbbrain · 5 pointsr/3dprintingdms

I started recently and did a lot of research.

I like Vallejo paints. Something like a set from Amazon is $40 and you get 16 colors. Depending on your paint color needs you can get game colors or a normal set.

Game Color Intro Set (16)

Vallejo Basic USA Colors Paint Set, 17ml

That is unless you're painting terrain. Use craft store paint on terrain. You can paint with craft store paints if your on a real tight budget. But I think it's significantly more challenging.

Also I recommend getting a nul shade from citidel. Don't get any of their paint pots, they are a pain.

I got this set and found it very handy to have all s
The washes I could want. Used some odd colors on my dragon and fire fox.
Games Workshop Citadel Shade Paint Set

Hope that helps!

u/AlertLevel · 5 pointsr/minipainting

If you plan on taking up the hobby and want paints to build on, I would pick up the Reaper learn to paint set . Comes with 2 brushes and 11 paints to get you started. Plus 3 minis to use in campaign. There’s a reason there are so many pictures of that skeleton mini on the sub. It’s a great starting point.

u/Frognosticator · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I recommend starting out with a beginner box. The Reaper Beginner Box has all the paints, washes, and brushes you'll need to get started. It also comes with an instructional booklet and some models to practice on, so you can work on the basic skills.

Keep in mind that minipainting is a cheap hobby... but WH40k is not. If you're just interested in the painting aspect, or you're on a very tight budget, you may want to look at some different games. Warhammer can get very expensive very quickly.

u/Rogue__Jedi · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I got my Reaper learn to paint kit today. I have zero experience with painting but it was way easier than I expected.

u/chucklenut33 · 5 pointsr/MiddleEarthMiniatures
    That link covers how you build armies to some degree. There are rules for what can go in. Each faction has both allowed units and units of various tiers of alliance. The link also covers army bonuses and alliances. To get the real details, you'll need either Armies of Lord of the Rings or Armies of the Hobbit. There's also a new Gondor at War book that I believe has some additional army information in it, but I haven't picked it up yet.

  2. Battle companies are smaller forces. Instead of the battle of Pellenor Fields scale, more like 8-10 models per side. You can do a campaign with them and "level" the models up, kind of like a RPG, or like Necromunda or Mordheim, if you've played or read about those games. Games of this size are often referred to as "skirmish sized" games, though I don't know if that's a term used in the SBG community.

  3. For rules basics, check out STF Wargaming Studio
    They have a lot of battle reports out there. If you have an hour, is a "how to play video." A shorter video (28 minutes) is which is a few years old, but much of the play sequence is the same. GBHL (Great British Hobbit League, can search GBHL on youtube) and STF both discuss things.

  4. As far as paints go, that's a tough one. A couple browns, some greens, silver (can't go wrong with Citadel Leadbelcher no matter your army imo), gold. Don't go overboard. Something like this might be a good start. As far as brushes, there's no need to go crazy. I order something like this from time to time and don't worry too much about the care of those brushes. I also have some Citadel brushes that I do take care of. There are plenty of painting tutorials on youtube, find a youtuber you like and go to town :) This guy is pretty good.

    Best of luck and welcome to the community!
u/Route66_LANparty · 5 pointsr/Warhammer

Depends on what you mean by "best" and "beginner" ...

Are you looking for the best in bang for the $$ as someone beginning in the hobby?

Best as in "easy" for a beginner to use?

OR best as in the best quality paints/colors regardless of price or difficulty?


Here's a quick rundown:

  • Games Workshop / Citadel Paints - These are easy to use for a beginner because all of the Games workshop guides, the paint app, and Warhammer TV videos use these paints in an almost paint by numbers fashion. This helps a beginner easily match the classic paint schemes on the box. Due to these detailed guides, you can buy exactly the paint pots you need. And they are readily available to pickup individual paint pots at your local GW store. Downside is the price and paint pots vs paint droppers.
  • Army Painter - Arguably the value winner as the boxed sets let you get colors for a bit under $2 a dropper bottle. Though you need to spend a little upfront to grab a while boxed set. Paints are solid mini paints, but require LOTS of shaking before use to make sure the medium and pigments blend well. Metallics leave a bit to be desired, but are plenty good for a beginner. Washes/shade are excellent. Army painter also has a nice line of colored spray primers that match the brushed sets. Allowing you to get a very smooth and quick first layer down along with the primer..
  • Vallejo - Quality paint dropper that for the most part, is cheaper than GW paints. Lots of 3rd Party painting guides use Vallejo. Available in kits or individual bottles. My problem is that I have trouble getting them locally or via my prefered online vendors. They are frequently out of stock or have stopped carrying them.
  • Reaper - I don't have personal experience with these paints but have a friend that loves them and the ability to inexpensively order exactly what colors you want directly from the reaper website.
  • Scale75 - Expensive high end paints that are likely more than a beginner needs. I'm just starting to get into them. Don't have enough experience to recommend them, yet.


    Suggested starting kits:

  • Games Workshop - 40k - or AoS -
  • Army Painter - + to make shaking them easier
  • Vallejo -

    Don't forget spray primers first.
u/Serneum · 5 pointsr/zombicide

Reaper makes Learn to Paint kits. I've used them to reinforce some of what I've learned at local painting meetups and I've liked them. I ended up grabbing a large Army Painter paint set and then had a wet palette and a Winsor & Newton brush recommended to me from a Zombicide painting group. They also pointed me to a head-mounted light/magnifying glass and some brush soap.

u/Haywood_Djabloeme · 4 pointsr/minipainting

Vallejo makes plain acrylic medium, glaze medium, and even a metallic medium (so you can create metallic paints in any color you want).

u/fxakira · 4 pointsr/Gunpla
  1. for Primer, I have been using the Tamiya Fine Gray spray can. This works great, as the particles are smaller than hardware store or craft store primers and preserve the details of the pieces. Other hobby primers work well too, such as the Mr. Surfacer line but I personally have not used those. Refer to this primer guide for which color you should choose for priming.
  2. You typically use a gloss black coat if you intend to bring out shiny / glossy layer of the paint on top. If your end game is a flat / matte topcoat, I would say this step is unnecessary. I have NOT observed a significant difference in color between a build with glossy black base and gold top paint layer versus. just a gold top paint layer when I matte coat it at the end.
  3. Your ordering is CORRECT. For the number of layers, my go to procedure:
  • Prime in 2 coats. I do a flash coat (quick spray bidirectional, there will be missing spots). Wait for 15 minutes and come back to do a 2nd coat to completely fill in. Wait a whole day.
  • Spray desired paint layer, 2 coats. Same idea as the primer.
  • Glossy coat to preserve the paint. I handbrush Pledge / Future Finish on and it works, but I am very patience with this step as I can overcoat and this will fill in the panel line. One thin coat is sufficient
  • Decal hell. Every kit, every time.
  • I top coat with Krylon Matte Finish. You can use the hobby stuffs like Testors Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat, but I am a student with a part time job and these damn cans are damn expensive. The Krylon works sufficiently for me, I just have to spray it more carefully than the hobby ones.

    Good luck!
u/BardsDirge · 4 pointsr/minipainting
u/spartankelli · 4 pointsr/Gloomhaven

A great place to start is the mini painting starter sets by Reaper:

They're not too expensive, and they are a great intro to mini painting. They also come with pieces to practice techniques on, and a lot of paints to work with as well. I'd get those, and maybe some brushes.

I also would recommend a wet palette to keep paints wet between painting sessions, magnifying glasses to help see, and a mini holder.

I also got these brushes, which seem to be working well for me, and have a mix of useful ones.

u/masterflashterbation · 4 pointsr/DnD

The starter paint sets Reaper puts out are solid. Comes with 3 minis and teaches you the basics with step by step instructions for each mini. Coupling that with some yt videos on how to use a good wash you can learn quickly. I was surprised how good some of mine look after just doing a few. I expected to be terrible but there's a lot of good stuff out there to help.

u/chaos_47 · 4 pointsr/minipainting

While this is generally considered good advice given here for a true "no experience" beginner you can get away with cheaper brushes.
IMO these brushes work great and are an excellent value at 4 bucks. And you will get a variety of useful sizes. (If you look for them in store they now have black handles, not blue)
(And yes I know this isn't an amazon purchase like OP wanted but its a great value)

Its probably better to pick up primer and sealer locally too. You could probably get both at Walmart.. I use Krylon COVERMAXX Acrylic Crystal Clear Flat sealer. But I like to use Duplicolor Sandable Primer so I get that at the automotive store.

IMO I would not buy a palette either. It's really easy to make a wet palette out of things from the dollar store or from around the house that will serve you better then an artists palette.

Reapers MSP and Citadel paints are not well represented on Amazon.. but Vallejo and Army Painter paints are..

Reaper does have their Learn to Paint kit on Amazon:

If your not sure that mini painting is going to be your thing you may just want to start with (diluted) craft paint anyways... but purpose made miniature paint really does have its advantages.

Sorry I know I haven't been much help on what to buy on Amazon but hopefully this will give you an idea on what to avoid

u/IgwanaRob · 4 pointsr/minipainting

Reaper kit comes with 2 brushes, a decent selection of paints, and some really good instructions for painting the included minis. Downside is you might want to pick up some additional paints as the ones included are tailored to the included minis (no human fleshtone, etc).

Basic but fairly standard set of paints, includes an ink for shading, and cheap enough to buy a few decent brushes along with it (the one it comes with is rather low quality, but considering the price it's not that bad of a negative point)

u/leglesslegolegolas · 4 pointsr/MassiveDarkness

You can start with one of the learn to paint kits.

They include instructions, paints, brushes, even a few miniatures to practice on. I linked the Core Skills set, there are a couple of other kits on Amazon as well for learning more advanced techniques.

u/doctorsuarez · 4 pointsr/HotWheels

There's this stuff called Tamiya panel line accent color that's great for this. It naturally flows into casting lines. It's also less dark even in black and also pretty forgiving. If it goes wrong you can wipe it away.

The other option is the super fine Gundam markers. You can use them to draw in the lines but unlike the stuff above they're really unforgiving. If you go outside the lines you can't really correct it.

TAMIYA 87131 Panel Line Accent Color Black For Plastic Model Kit

u/Dealthagar · 4 pointsr/Warhammer

I'm in the USA, so these are more North America-centric, but I'm fairly certain you can find equivalents in Europe or Australia.

If you want to learn techniques before buying expensive minis, but a pack of cheap army men or dinosaurs:
In the store, these are $1.00 USD. great for learning to paint, and disposable if you mess up.

Primer: Painters Touch 2x - good primer, way less expensive than Citadel. Home Depot Link

Brushes: Painting, especially learning to paint will be rough on brushes. Cheap brushes that aren't garbage will work for you, I suggest these: Walmart Link

Paint: Don't use craft paints. They are super cheap, don't thin well, are well pigmented and are generally crap for actual mini painting. Vallejo has a starter kit that's great: Amazon Link

Army Painter has a very basic starter kit, I'm a fan of their range as well, Amazon Link

$3 USD will get you a ton of minis to learn on
$5 USD for primer
$4 USD for brushes
$30-50 USD for paints

Get a cheap hobby knife or x-acto knife and for less than $75 you're in a hobby that will keep you entertained for life.

If you really don't want to start on non-hobby minis, $10-25 USD will get you an EZ Build pack. Games Workshop Link

You may even want to just drop the $40 and get the basic starter for Warhammer AoS - LINK or WH40k - LINK. Each has 4 Easy Build packs in it, so basically, buy 3, get one free, plus you get the basic rules of the game as well.

Hope this helps.

u/Ass_Masster · 4 pointsr/minipainting

Army painter is likely your best bet, and they have a relatively large kit (link below) and you're not going to get better than $2 per pot. Really as far as I know, the big names are really what you're looking at, and probably expect to pay between $2.50 and $5 a color. You can by other brands, but miniature paint is made for miniatures, and will turn out better than a store bought acrylic at michaels. P3, Vallejo, Citadel, Army painter, those are you big names.

u/Hyperimaginative42 · 4 pointsr/minipainting
u/SmyD-Pad · 4 pointsr/SWlegion

The Army Painter Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus Wargamer Regiment Miniature Paint Brush - Acrylic Model Paint Set with 50 Bottles of Non Toxic Model Paints - Mega Paint Set 3

Is a great set that I purchased when I got into 40k. It has a great selection of colors and washes so you’ll have everything you need to get started. Plus with all the options the set will grow with you as a painter. As you get more comfortable you can use what’s in there to expand into adding more advanced shades and highlights. As long as you remember to “thin your paints” it should last you awhile. If you want to get the most out of these or any paints I’d also recommend looking up how to make a wet pallet. It’s easy and makes a little paint go along way. Hope this helps.

u/thvbh · 4 pointsr/minipainting

Maximum bang for buck would be an Army Painter Mega Set. You can achieve basically anything with this selection. For varnish/mediums skip Amazon, just use the half-off daily coupon for a bottle of artist's medium/varnish (Liquitex, Golden, W&N, whatever) at Michael's/AC Moore/Hobby Lobby/whatever is local to you.

u/alaskafish · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

I would not recommend brushing this stuff on. Glosses are really hard to brush on and still get a good result. If you have an airbrush, go for this stuff.

But if you don't, then I recommend picking up some of the Tamiya's glosses in the spray canisters like this

u/mrush007 · 3 pointsr/ImperialAssaultTMG

Here is my list I will put links when I can.

Citadel Shades- also known as washes. I would suggest Nuln Oil as your black wash and Reikland Fleshshade as a brown wash. Example you would black wash the probe droids but I would suggest the brown wash for the wookie.
I find these washes great for new painters because you don’t have to do anything to them. Use them right out of the pot.

Also the Citadel base paints that have the metal look to them like lead belcher are excellent for doing highlights on metal surfaces like the blasters or the droids.

For all my normal colors I only use the 1$ acrylic paint from normal craft stores. They work just as well as long as you water them down. You pay more for the special miniature paints and Side by side I did not see the difference in my Minis.

For primer I use white for most things even stuff that will be dark. It is much easier to make something darker. It is harder to lighten up it back up. The washes especially the black wash will darken up the mini as well so it is important for the colors to be brighter than you think they will needed to be.
Some talked about having to do more than one coat and for about half my colors I normally do two coats but the white gives me the freedom to just do one coat if I want it to look lighter. Example I have to paint a mini one time that was wearing jeans. I only applied one coat of blue paint then used the black wash over it. This gave the jeans this faded look and was done much easier than having to do the lighter highlights by hand.

For brushes a size 0 1 and 2 would be a good start. For washing I use a side 3-4 as well since that makes it quicker.

Varnishes there is only one to use Testors Dull coat

Ok here are items that are just really nice to have that you may not have thought about

You will need something to put the models on while you are painting them. I use corks and you can get those at a local craft store then you pick your brushes up. You don’t want to be holding on the mini while painting as your figures will pull even some of the dry paint off with enough handling.
Best way to attach them to the corks is poster tack. It is reusable and holds them very secure.

For priming I have seen a lot of people use a box to prime the minis and I have done this but I find it sometimes hard to get primer over the bottom of the minis. My solution to that is a yard stick. You are going to get paint all over it so make sure it is not one you ever plan on using as a yard stick again. Use the poster tack to minis to the stick. This allows me to flip the minis over completely to be able to get primer even in the hard to reach spots. I can spray about 12 minis at one time.

Edit wanted to add some examples of my work. These are the first minis I ever painted.

u/wemblinger · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Get some big bottles of Vallejo black and white. Done for years of perfect brush or airbrush priming.

u/disgustipated · 3 pointsr/ModelCars

Here's a quick list of goodies to consider:

Testor's Model Master Glue - works on all of the kit's plastics except clear glass (use Elmer's glue for that). Be sure he scrapes any paint or chrome plating off the parts before gluing.

Tamiya Fine Surface Primer - painting is much easier with a primer coat. It gives the paint something to bite into. This can be used on the body and really any other parts that get paint. Makes it much easier to brush paint on smaller parts, too.

Model Master Black Lacquer - this will give him the base for a great matte black finish.

Model Master Flat Clear - this is a clear, non-shiny protective top coat that will take the shine off the black paint and give him a nice, matte finish.

Here is a build guide - much more than he needs, but the painting process is the same, except he'll be using a flat clear instead of gloss.

Feel free to ask any questions or send him over to /r/modelcars when he gets the kit. Have fun!

u/HeadWright · 3 pointsr/minipainting

YUCK! Neither!! GW Products are crap.

Order some Testors: Model Master - Flat Clear Coat and thank me later.

u/fluxual · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Thanks! I went with Testors lusterless flat. Decent price for what it covers!

u/crazypipo · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Assuming you will start with panel lining on bare plastic first.


  • For beginners, a fine point Gundam Marker is the best to start. Any mistakes made with this can be cleaned up with nothing but q-tip...or even your thumbs. All though, it will not looks as crisp and consistent as other solutions.

  • Option 2 is Pour type Gundam Marker. Unlike the fine point, the ink in these pens will is much thinner. It will runs a long the panel line result in very crisp and clean panel lines. Its only minor problem is you need to wait for it to dry (at least 10 mins to be safe) before cleaning up excess with rubbing alcohol and at least over an hour before top coating.

  • Option 3 is Tamiya Panel Line Accent. They work very similar to pour type but has different mixture. It comes pre-thinned so you don't need to do anything to do. The cap is double as a small brush that you will use to apply. I personally use this (and swear by it) and clean up excess with very little enamel thinner. It is the best of all IMO.

    Here comes the controversial part, people say that the Acent will eat through your plastic and make it brittle - which is not wrong but not always right. Yes, it will ruin the plastics if you shower them in the accent and enamel. All you need is a little touch and the ink runs. To clean up, damp a cotton swap with enamel thinner and rub right off. Very easy. Very little headache.


    There are other self-thin solutions that some people use, but I find the options above the be the most efficient ones.
u/Fredfredbug4 · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I recommend this kit. Gives you everything you need including instructions. Models are very detailed and are good practice for 40k.

u/takabrash · 3 pointsr/boardgames

Are you looking for an actual game in the end, or just something to paint and play with? If the latter, check out a couple of these

u/BloodthirstyGM · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

u/hobbykitjr · 3 pointsr/dndnext

I still have non... except painting minis for some reason.

people have confused my drawings with my 3 year olds. (he asks me to draw a horse in his coloring book and then later someone says 'thats not bad for a 3 year old')

Reaper sells a painting tutorial kit, different levels that include minis, instructions, paints and brushes and i got good at it, so look into them if you had fun! (amazon link, much different than the ones i got years ago)

p.s. Is your enchanter named Tim?

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Totally understand that, for minis Warhammer is a tad expensive but they are good quality, there are lots of different models to paint from fantasy to futuristic and then fantasy football (blood bowl), for military you have Bolt action and konflict 47 which is WWII Era minis, guild ball is another fantasy sport game, all of which are on Amazon.

An inexpensive option is Reaper minis, they are inexpensive and are a great start for a beginner and are on Amazon to peruse as well to get your feet wet. They also have a paint start set here

But as another person mentioned see if there are any local stores around you and meet with the workers there and they can help step you in the right direction for paints and minis or games as well.

u/WizardPoop · 3 pointsr/wow

Damn it, I look like a dirty liar now. They run about $30.

I bought mine at their booth at PAX, I think they were having a special. Either way it's a good kit! Sorry to mislead!

If you search ebay for "dark vengeance space Marines" you can find brand new squads for about half the price of retail ($13-15)

u/repotxtx · 3 pointsr/boardgames

Good advice already here, especially /r/minipainting. What really got me going when I started last year was the first Reaper Learn to Paint kit. Comes with paints, brushes and step by step instructions to paint the three included minis. I ended up ordering duplicates of the minis and went through each with my three kids (13-18). All of them actually turned out really well. It worked at least well enough that we realized, we can actually learn this to some level. You can find plenty of info elsewhere obviously, but I appreciated how this dumbed it down enough for us. Plus, you have some basic paints to hang onto going forward.

u/oonooneoo · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Reaper's Learn to Paint Kit is pretty popular.

u/Jewfro879 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This is what I bought when I got started. It is a pretty good starter and comes with 3 minis. Not terrible depending on your budget only $30

u/nope_a_dope · 3 pointsr/MansionsOfMadness2E

Nothin to it but to do it! Seriously, there is so much pride that comes from playing a game with minis that you painted. Even a poor paint job is usually better than NO paint. I'd recommend buying one of the "learn to paint" kits from Reaper or the like. It's pretty cheap to get started and find out if it is for you.

u/y4udothat · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I really like this kit.

The brushes are decent.

The paint selection is nice, although there is no red and the yellow is kinda meh. So you'll want to buy those two colors individually.

The best part for beginners, in my opinion, is that it includes 3 minis and a guidebook for how to paint them.

If you need help beyond that, YouTube is filled with tips, tutorials, etc. I like The Miniac and Tabletop Minions personally.

u/SwirishNinja · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Check out the official "WHAT SHOULD I BUY!" guide.

This is a good starter kit.

u/Ominymity · 3 pointsr/DnD

Does he use miniatures in his games? You could pick him up a random booster pack of D&D minis- new monsters to use can be inspiration for encounters.

EDIT: This would most likely be on budget and these are new figures! Came out in late July.

If he plays 5e there are new books coming out still- you could look at what he has or order something upcoming for him to lean his campaign toward.

EDIT: Make sure you check his shelf/bin if you don't want to get something he has already!

Maybe he is a fan of fantasy books/movies? You might have some luck picking something he would like- that could bleed through for inspiration.

Also, tabletop players always enjoy a new set of dice, if they are a shiny new color or something.
I suggest these!


This is kind of a stretch probably- but consider steering him toward something like which can be a near endless source of materials/resources.

You could try picking up one of the starter sets to see if he would like painting!

u/RebelScum75 · 3 pointsr/boardgames

This Reaper Bones "Learn to Paint" kit actually comes with 3 practice minis, as well as brushes, paints, and getting started guide:
That way, you don't worry about messing up your game-related minis.

If you already have brushes & paints, then maybe see if you can find some random cheap minis to practice with.

u/TurboCooler · 3 pointsr/SWlegion

To get started, I recommend getting these two kits to practice.

Reaper Getting Started

Reaper Layers Kit

Whatever miniatures you use, make sure you wash them in warm water and Dove dishwashing liquid.

Those miniatures above DO NOT need primer, but for practice, get some Vallejo, Game Workshop or Army Painter Primer. Whatever you can find locally. Get a gray primer.

Practice on these miniatures. If you do not like them you can try painting them again.

If you want some more practice miniatures find whatever is on clearance at Miniature Market or CoolStuffInc or the unpainted D&D line.

How to start all over again, just soak your painted miniatures in simple green overnight. The next day use some elbow grease, old tooth brush, rinse in clean water and let dry. You are good to give them a second try.

u/Serath62 · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I use a Badger Patriot 105 along with a Super Fine Conversion Kit. I use a Badger Aspire TC910 compressor, but I also used a variant of this little mini air compressor for about a year which worked great.

For paints I used Citadel; what you see here is Incubi Darkness, followed by Kabalite Green and then Sybarite Green. I did a final brush edge highlight with Gauss Blaster Green. I get these at my FLGS.

I recently got the the Vallejo GameAir set for my birthday, and the paint is great. I didn't use it here though, this is all Citadel paint.

As for technique, I based the whole model black (with the riders separate) and then applied a fairly broad highlight of Incubi Darkness on the higher (where the light hitting the model was more prevalent) spots, then moved the brush a bit closer to catch the inner parts with Kabalite Green, then a bit closer using the same technique with Sybarite green. As for the edges I just purposefully over-sprayed so only half the paint hit the model, giving it a sharp edge.

The GameAir set from Vallejo comes with a color conversion chart but doesnt cover most of the "Dark Eldar" colors, only the basics. You can thin down Citadel paints with water, but the pigment in them is thicker than actual air brush paint, so your brush will clog, and paint drying on the air brush needle is a real annoyance. Other than that, I'd recommend watching a few videos on airbrushing 101, this effect was really not hard to apply at all once you get a gist for trigger control and aiming.

Other than that, the Wyches were painted following pretty much every Dark Eldar armor/flesh painting video you can find, haha.

u/Grimlockgravez · 3 pointsr/transformers

Oh haha nope... tbh I lost his hammer launcher thing in a pile of parts somewhere.

Ol’ Ironhide has...
New weapons

New gap fillers

New stompy boots

Whole lot of this... ... and some of this

u/PhobosTheSpacePotato · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I should also mention nuln oil, also called "liquid talent," though I've never tried it myself.

u/StopDropNFrag · 3 pointsr/MarvelLegends

Citadel makes a good producut. This is what I use for my Gunpla and bases for mini's.

But really, just run a search for "black wash acrylic paint".

u/Gingeraile · 3 pointsr/KingdomDeath

The white lion was actually incredibly easy, and took like 2 hours excluding priming and waiting for paint to dry.
I primed him black, then painted his body Monster Brown, and the mane Oak Brown
I then gave the entire model a hefty wash of Agrax Earthshade
After that, I drew in some very rough, non-blended shadows and highlights around the ribs and larger muscles, I think I used the Oak brown and Ushabti Bone
After that I took a large flat brush, and Aggressively drybrushed the entire thing with some more thinned Ushabti bone. Be sure to make sure your brush isn't too wet, or you will lose all that detail you built up. Thinning it allows it to be even more transparent when it goes on, and the highlights and shadows still show through your drybrushing.
For the eyes I just painted the sockets a very bright white, then threw down some red ink once it dried. The blood effects are some thin coats of Dried Blood followed by a smaller coat of Fresh Blood.

u/Leo-Tyrant · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I recommend any of these 2 alternatives, very cheap and you will enjoy the quick and effective results:

Gundam marker:

Gundam Marker

Accent Color

u/slartiwhoop · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I recommend the Army Painter Wargames Starter Paint Set. It has all the basic colors you need anyway plus an excellent metallic and a very nice wash. There's also a brush included that's not complete rubbish. Later you can add more colors to your collection as you need them.

u/Probably_Not_Evil · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This Army Painter starter set is your best bet. It has Black, White, 3 primary colors, green, a flesh tone, a good brown, steel metallic(you can add colors to it of you want the metal to look a different color), and Strong tone wash(actually my favorite wash, period). Even comes with an okay detail brush.

If you want purple and orange. You can pick up any brand you want and it'll work just fine with these paints. Citadel is usually the easiest to find if you have gaming shop nearby. Or if you have a hobby lobby, they sell Vallejo model paints. They're good. Other brands that come to mind. Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, and Scale 75. All good.

So all you'd need to get is a primer of your choice. And a decent brush, here's a decent brush set. And probably want to get a good matte varnish. Most people recommend Testors dull coat. But if you want brush on. Vallejo matte varnish is a good alternative. All in all you could easily be under $50.

Miniac's video on how to take care of your brushes

u/AFKennedy · 3 pointsr/ageofsigmar

If you’re planning on painting becoming something you do, I think the best value is this set of 50 paints for $94: . The paint quality is similar to GW’s paints but you get a LOT more for your money (the dropper bottles hold almost twice as much paint as a GW paint pot, and cost about 1/3 as much). And it’s half the price of Vallejo’s mega paint set.

For a cheaper option, is less than $30, but you only get 10 paints. But again, a better deal than GW’s paints - GW has a deal for $40 for 11 small paint pots versus $28 for 10 larger dropper bottles from army painter.

But if you can afford to get the 50 paint set from Army Painter, I’d spring for that - the paints cover a wide variety of colors and options (including washes and metallics) and will last you for years.

u/TWWfanboy · 3 pointsr/ageofsigmar

If you’re looking to get a lot of quality paints quickly at a good price, I cannot recommend Army Painter’s Mega Bundle enough.

u/BearfangTheGamer · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

A few things are going sideways here.


First of all, you don't need every paint. You just don't. Even if you want all the colors, there are other paint companies, I'll link a few. Everyone has their own opinons, of course, on the quality of the various paints. These still range from 1-200 dollars for the paints, but still, a far cry less then you must be paying GW.





In addition, you can get all the brushes you'll need, in good quality, here


If you go for the Army Painter large Paint set, the Army Painter Brush Set, and get Dark Imperium for around 135.00 on Ebay or Amazon, you are looking at 270.00. You can find pretty much every tool that Citadel sells much cheaper elsewhere in the off brand. I don't even use a scraper for example, I use files and cheap craft knife.

u/GendrysRowboat · 3 pointsr/asoiafminiaturesgame

Welcome to the hobby and this great game!

As for beginner painting resources, I highly recommend Mike Meeple's "Painting Poorly" series:

He does a great job of breaking down the steps and his guides are very easy to follow. As an added bonus, he focuses on painting using less expensive materials and showing that you can get quality results without needing to spend a ton of money on paints, brushes, etc.

As for "best starting paint set" - there are a lot of different answers depending on the specific of your situation. For example, what colors do you plan on using? Do you already have brushes, or do you need brushes? Some paint sets include brushes (although they usually aren't very high quality).
When I first started, I was gifted this set from The Army Painter:
I've been very happy with it. But I've used maybe half of the paints in the set, so that's probably overkill.
It really depends on your goals, and how much you're comfortable spending. You can certainly make a ton of progress without nearly as much investment as that set.

The biggest beginner mistake I would caution against is not thinning your paints. If you use paints straight from the pot, it will be very thick and you'll end up obscuring a lot of the finer details on your models. So thin your paints (I just use water, but there are specialty thinning mediums that some people like to use). And take your time! Try to enjoy the process. Not everyone enjoys painting their models, but I find that it's a great way to relax at the end of the day. Don't put too much pressure on yourself to make your models look perfect. Take a slow, and as you practice you'll become more confident and you'll be able to paint more models more quickly.

Disclaimer - I am by no means an "expert" painter. But hopefully my comment is helpful.
Side note - I recommend joining the "A Song of Ice and Fire: Tabletop Wargamers" Discord server. There are a lot of really helpful people on there who are great at answering rules questions, giving painting tips, and discussing game tactics.

u/MrCrunchwrap · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

Thanks! I was overwhelmed too, so I started by watching some videos on YouTube and whatnot. I ended up getting this set:


This feels like pretty good value to me, and has a ton of colors to pick from. It also has premade washes for shading, metallic paint, and blood/dirt effect paint so it has worked super well for Gloomhaven stuff.

u/Anonieme_Angsthaas · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

IIRCC, Tamiya has only a glossy clear spray. The only ones I know are these:

u/deon_ · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

getting a lot of mixed answers about this, but if I'm not painting my kit and want to panel line, should I bother with a clear coat beforehand? I'm planning on using a fine tip Gundam Marker and some Tamiya panel line accent color (this one). from what I've read, I don't need to bother with a base clear coat if I'm not painting.

and if I do need a base clear coat, is this the right one?

u/fluffy_warthog10 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

No problem.

A minor note re. the gloss coat: I might be a little wary of old Citadel paints; I've heard their shelf lives are not the longest. I would go with a rattle can of Tamiya clear gloss to start with; one can ought to cover at least one or two HG-sized gunpla, if used sparingly.

u/Alucard1138 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Thank you!! I got Tamiya weathering kits off Amazon. They're like little makeup applicators, they make a bunch of different ones and they come with 3 colors per pack. Then I hit it with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear to lock it all in and make it look more realistic.

u/KingOfCarrotFlowers · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I just used the Tamiya weathering master C kit (link). It was actually fairly easy to apply with the little sponge brush thing -- I'd just rub it in the silver pigment and then brush it over corners. I think it turned out pretty well for a first attempt :)

u/rct0114 · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

For the Model Color, use the Thinner Medium. You just need 1 or 2 drops of this thinner for a drop of Model Color. Too much will make your paint have a watery/runny consistency.

On the other hand, use the Airbrush Thinner for the Model Air. It works best with a Retarder Medium. Vallejo's air brush thinner is quite tricky to use though. You have to get the right paint to thinner ratio that will work best with your air brush. Try out different combinations on an old kit or a plastic sheet before painting your models.

EDIT: There's also an air brush flow improver from Vallejo.

u/CivilC · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you're painting a model kit, try your best to acquire paints and topcoats specifically for plastic/plastic models. If you're in the US, Testors, Tamiya, and even Krylon can work as good flat coats and each brand has a respective gloss and semigloss spray.

u/ohemge · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Quick question, as a complete noobie to Gunpla, I was wondering if these would be the appropriate sprays to use for top coating, both for the gloss, so I could pannel line, and then do the decaling and weathering and obviously then the matte coat.

So would these work for the gloss and matte coats, or are there better options out there. Obviously price isnt to much of an option, as long as its the best bang for the buck.

The first one I've found is the gloss its by Mr.Hobby, called Mr.Super Clear Gloss and the second one was the matte final coat by Tamyia Color called Tamiya Color TS80 Flat Clear

u/AdmiralCrackbar · 2 pointsr/Warmachine

Looks fantastic. I'd throw a matte varnish on there though to reduce the glossiness and help protect your hard work against damage.

I've had good results with Dull Cote in the past. Of course feel free to use whatever brand you can get a hold of or prefer, it will protect your paint job just the same.

u/Shields42 · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I use Armstrong Multisurface Finish applied via airbrush. Solid results and very durable. For matte finishes, I then apply a very light coat of Testors Dullcote.

Armstrong Multisurface Finish:

Testors Dullcote:

u/Nafarious · 2 pointsr/Warmachine

I like them, the red and gold is a nice theme. I can't wait to get home and work on my 5th border legion some more >:)

On another note, do they look as glossy in person as they do in this picture? If so then when you are finished with them, you may want to use a matte varnish that reduces the shine. I believe this is the one.

u/chaklong · 2 pointsr/HeroForgeMinis

Spray primer is great for priming lots of minis really quickly, so you are doing it right! For small touch-ups, people usually use brush on primer, or sometimes airbrush primers.

I use the Vallejo black primer, which also comes in smaller sizes as well as other colors. It works both with a brush or an airbrush. You just need to put a drop of two of the primer on a paint palette, and then use a brush to apply it on a specific spot. There's a whole bunch of videos on Youtube of people using brush on primers if you want to take a look.

Do keep in mind that if you ever decide to remove supports or mold lines that you missed and didn't notice until after painting (I've done that several times before), the paint will also scraped off and may leave a small sort of "paint crater" if the layer of paint was a bit thick. You'd just need to fill it back in with some equally thick paint to smooth it back out afterwards.

u/Horehey34 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Prime Vallejo Surface Primer Black

Airbrush Rhinox Hide from below at an angle

Airbrush Mournfang Brown

Zenithal Vallejo Gunmetal Premium making sure you leave the browns in the shaded areas.

I will be changing to Vallejo completely because GW paints are a pain in the arse to get into an airbrush.

u/SheIsAurorable · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Don't use the primers that come from a hardware store, they are much stronger and meant for things like wood and other furniture and house painting, they might destroy your miniatures.

Primers can be spray or paint-on, and they are somewhat different than regular paints. Not sure on the exact details of what makes them different, I just know that the primers stick a hell of a lot better to bare plastic than regular paints. So you should use primer on bare plastic (or metal, or resin) before applying regular paint.

GW does not have any paint-on primers, and while you can technically use Chaos Black paint as a primer (probably due to the pigment content), it is not actually a primer and you are probably better off using actual primer (not to mention you will end up spending a fortune on Chaos Black paint pots if you prime everything with it). GW sells spray primer in a can in both black and white, there are also a number of other companies that sell spray primer for miniatures (Vallejo, Army Painter, P3), some of which sell it in more than just black and white. If you want paint-on primer, I recommend Vallejo Surface Primer, which comes in bottles up to 200 mL, the one that I linked is in black, but they also come in a variety of other colors.

u/thegiantcat1 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Also about primer, you don't even need it an spray cans you can buy a 200ml bottle of it for like 16 USD on amazon. That should last you a long freaking time and is more than thin enough that you can apply the primer directly to the model(as long as you don't way overdue it)
Here is a link to what I have:

The other benefit of not using spray is it can allow you to practice brush control, try painting fine detail areas with the primer and seeing how (within the lines you will stay) since it is rather watery it can help with this. Also don't be discouraged by your fist attempts, I'm also just starting out as well and the painting of it is definitely a learning process.

u/Hvstle · 2 pointsr/Airbrushing

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!


Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.


u/ImWrongYoureRight · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I know we all have our own preferences but I still think Lusterless Flat Lacquer is the best matte finish out there.

u/Mr0010110Fixit · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

This stuff will do the job

Used by a professional (check out Next Level Painting on YouTube) He uses this to seal all his models

u/RynoKenny · 2 pointsr/boardgames

>black is fine I use citadels shade "nuln oil" this can make any paint job look 2x better

Can a black wash be used on any color? How do you use a black wash on a light-colored figure?

I see that the Citadel Shade Nuln Oil is $8.60, but I could get a batch of 8 Citadel washes for $34.50. Would you recommend the batch of washes, or is the black all I need for a beginner.

I also have the Army Painter Strong Tone Quick Shade that I have been using, but it is a pretty dirty shader, only good for all my zombies I think.

u/handfistface · 2 pointsr/pokemon

Yeah. Here's an Amazon link to the basic games workshop set.

Essentially the paint is super watery and will suck itself down into the crevices of a model. It's nicknamed liquid talent because it just instantly and drastically improves your model.

I've used shades on a 0.1mm layer height print before. It's usually fine, any bigger layer height and it starts getting wonky because if the nature of 3d printing. It makes rings around the model. It looks like you should be fine though.

u/GK45 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I have been looking into panel lining lately as I want to move from strait assembly into lining and matte coating.
The general thought seems to be that if you are working with unpainted plastic you can just panel line on the plastic as it is already relatively smooth and gloss.

The reason for gloss coating before panel lining a painted kit is two fold.
First it protects your paint job you just finished.
Then possibly more importantly, thinned washes don't flow over matte finish paints well, so if you are lining with a thin wash you're going to go nowhere very slowly.
A Matte look is achieved by having a rougher surface, all those tiny little scratches/particles absorb the light causing it to look matte.
A Gloss look is achieved by having a smoother surface with much finer scratches creating the mirror like effect by reflecting it away from the surface rather then into the crevices of the surface.

Think of it like pouring muddy water on a piece of glass vs lets say cement.
It will flow right down the glass and wipe off easily but it will get stuck on the ridges and even after you wipe it clean there will still be mud stuck in the little grooves where you don't want it.

That is a very simple way of explaining it, might not be the best either.
Still, it should demonstrate well enough.
For panel lining you can do either acrylic or enamel.
It is suggested to not use lacquer for panel lining as it will not work well on top of anything except lacquer and can eat into plastic causing it to break if you use to much, it does however make a fantastic primer because of its strength.
Enamel paints can do this as well but not unless you use way to much.

The general rule of thumb for mixing paint types is this.
Lacquer can paint over other Lacquer paints but will eat into enamel and acrylic paints.
Enamel can paint over Lacquer and other Enamels just fine but can cause problems with some acrylics so you should test the combination before hand.
Acrylics can paint over anything.
I settled on these myself, as it is already thinned to the correct amount for panel lining and comes with a small brush attached to the lid.
It's an enamel so if I want to weather over it with acrylics it will not be cleaned away with acrylic thinner.
The only downside is that being an enamel it can cause your plastic to break if you go heavy with it.

u/Heretic_Tom · 2 pointsr/minipainting

In terms of how to paint them, I would do Mephiston Red → Evil Sunz Scarlet → Wild Rider Red with Carroburg Crimson shade for the armor and then do a standard Citadel gold progression for the trim. After that I would recommend using weathering powders and standard "chipped" armor techniques. Good luck!!

u/BT_Neophyte · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I purchased this set a while ago:

I've been very happy with them and the results I get from them. It's also a nice selection of colors/tones, though of course you can just buy one of the cases instead of this entire set to save money.

u/TenThousandKobolds · 2 pointsr/DnD

If you want to start painting minis, check out r/minipainting for some resources and inspiration.

I started by watching youtube videos to see how the techniques were used and I picked up the Learn to Paint kits from Reaper Miniatures. #1 and #2 are currently available on Amazon for about $30 each. They come with 11 paints each, a couple brushes, and 3 minis each to get you started, plus a guide to paint the included minis.

Once you've practiced on a couple minis, I'd also recommend picking up a "flesh wash" if you'll be painting light-skinned characters. It makes the shading on light skin much easier. You might also want to get a black and brown wash for shading just because those are the most commonly used ones and it'll make your life easier. (A "wash" is a thin, watery paint that's used to make the crevices of the mini darker, like they're in shadow.)

Total startup cost if you get both paint kits and a bottle each of flesh, black, and brown washes: about $70. Additional bottles of paint will run you $3-4 each, and more Reaper Bones minis (the most economical but still well-detailed minis I've found) are around $2-4 for medium sized minis.

u/epic-clutch · 2 pointsr/DnD

I'd highly recommend this kit if you can buy it:

It's a kit that comes with paint, 3 minis, a couple brushes, and some instructions.

My wife and I had never painted minis before, and we bought this and have been painting like mad since. It teaches some really great basic techniques and gives you the basics of what you need to get started. Then, it's just all about practice. Take your time painting, learn as you go, and you'll get better and better!

Also, using double sided tape on an old pill bottle is a great way to manipulate your mini while painting it!

u/Skadwick · 2 pointsr/DnD

Anyone looking to learn should try the Reaper learn to paint kits.

They'll teach you a ton, and are really fun. I'm just finishing up the second set and really proud of all of the minis I've done.

u/AndWhenIGo · 2 pointsr/minipainting

A lot of people start learning to paint with the Reaper kit It also includes a few generic minis to learn on.

For me, I started with the three Zombicide paint sets. They've given me a lot of utility and variety of colors and shaders. To this day I still use them (along with other Army Painter and Citidel paints that I've added) even if I'm not painting zombies.

u/zelyre · 2 pointsr/DnD

For D&D, I mostly dig into the Reaper catalogue as they cover just about everything. Games Workshop models are expensive and the newer models are scaled.

Reaper Minis has a line of minis called Bones. They're cheaper plastic versions of their metal/resin minis, and you're looking at around $3 for each humanoid.

More expensive than the tubes, but you get exactly the mini you're looking for.

You may want to start with a kit like this:

Three minis, brushes, paint, and a case.

I like to prime my bones minis with a brush on primer. They advertise that you don't need to do this.

Wizkids also has pre-primed minis. They usually come in a two pack for $7-$8. I'm not a fan of these, though. The scale/proportions aim towards more realistic-ish, but at this scale, I don't like how it looks.

For someone starting to paint, avoid metal and resin miniatures. They have a lot of prep work before they'll be paintable.

u/CannibalAngel · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Thanks! I was looking at this set from Vallejo and this set from Reaper. I hear that 1/2 of the paints in the Reaper set are bad or hard to work with though. Although it does come with 3 minis.

u/RandomH3r0 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

These are the ones I got but both were cheaper at the time.

Vallejo color pack was right at $41.

Reaper Bone Set was like $30.

edit: had the prices swapped.

u/Corvuspretanicus · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Hey there! I got into painting based on the board games I was picking up that came with plastic miniatures. This was a good starting place as the figures aren't super detailed and adding any paint to them seemed to make them better than standard board game pieces.

If the art side if things is more of the draw then I would suggest checking out a starter kit. There are a few "starter kits" out there that are good because they give you the basic necessities to jump into painting without spending tons of money.

I saw a couple good looking kits on Amazon. Here is a DND specific one:

The Army Painter Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set

Or here is a generic fantasy one:
Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

I think I'd recommend the second one as it comes with a couple different figures and seems like it's ready to go right out of the box.

One cool thing about painting miniatures is that it is as complicated or as simple as you'd like. There are some great tutorial videos on YouTube to teach the basics. I learned from Sorastros painting tutorials. He does a good job of showing you the basics to get a decent looking figure and then gives you extra steps if you are extremely detailed or want to go to the next level.

As others have mentioned you can get sets of figures to paint from reapers miniatures website. Or if there is a board game out there with a theme your son likes, it may be a good place to start as most games come with 15-30 miniatures with different sizes. Including bigger monsters which can be really fun to paint. Plus you then have a fun game in which to use your art project.

Mice and mystics is a fun family cooperative game with tiny anthropomorphic mice fighting fantasy battles similar to the redwall books. I painted the figures from those and had a great time with the painting and the game.

Some other good ones are Descent 2nd edition and Starwars Imperial assault. Both come with great miniatures but are a little complex on rules and need one player to be the big bad overlord playing against the heroes.

There is also a series of dungeons and dragons board games that are cooperative and come with lots of miniatures. The quality of these isn't very high but those were my first figures.

If you want to go "whole hog" you could purchase one of the "Warhammer age of sigmar" starter boxes. These miniatures are extremely detailed and actually require you to assemble them from several pieces. They don't come with paint inused but there are entire paint kits to go along with them. Some folks really enjoy putting the GW models together, then priming and painting them. These aren't cheap so it might be best to start elsewhere but you get a lot of figures in the box. I will warn you the theme is fairly dark. Lots of blood and skulls.

Best of luck and I hope you guys enjoy!

u/unforgivablenope · 2 pointsr/minipainting

If you're in a tight budget, it's best to go to Micheals and take advantage of their coupons. Depending on the store, some will take multiple coupons at once and use their competitors' coupons but be sure to check/read their restrictions. And check out your local game workshop and ask if they do deals. Sometimes, they can give you a discount.

For the brushes, there is only one size everyone uses and that's size 1. The best brush brands you can use are Artists Loft and Royal & Langnickel. Keep in mind that when you go to the store, be sure to read what the brushes are for. There are three types: watercolor, oils, and acrylics. Get the acrylic brushes! Those are your best friends when you paint minis. Also, watch out for specialty brushes. Those have animal hairs that are used for specific paint styles and are high maintenance to keep clean. You can learn about those special brushes here and learn the different types of brushes here.

The paints you are using are really watered down so the results will be quite messy and unpleasant to look at but you can make neat textures with them so keep them. The best paints to use are Winsor & Newton (acrylic & oils), Artist Loft (acrylic & oils), Golden (acrylic & oils), Citadel (acrylic), and/or Vallejo (acrylic). Read the labels of your paints before purchasing! People these days do not put the paint back so they are often mixed up. So, for the time being, to make things easier for you is to try out Reaper Miniatures or Army Painter. These brands have good starter kits when you are in a strict budget.

The only thing I would have done differently if I were a beginner would be the research. Before I buy anything, I research which materials are best suited for my projects, look into stores on what kind of discounts I can get from them, list what interests me, and compare prices. It's a pain to do but it's worth the money. The best advice I can give you as a long-time painter is to experiment and practice. The more you do, the more you learn. Even though it may take forever to finish, the experience you went through will help you figure out which technique is worth doing. Remember, you are the painter, do what's easier for you! Sometimes, you don't need pricy things to make your projects look good. It's all in technique and patience.

u/KreeganStonefist · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I got the Reaper Learn to Paint set, which also includes a couple of brushes and 3 minis.

u/youwhatmatequemark · 2 pointsr/rpg

I definitely recommend getting one of the many miniatures boardgames out now (if you tell me what kind of minis you are looking for, I can recommend a few).

For paint, you don't have to start with miniatures paints, but it might be easier if you do. There are learn to paint kits that have a brush, some basic paint colors, and even a couple minis to get you started. Most of the major paint brands have some kind of kit like that (Vallejo, Games Workshop, Reaper).

Also, check out /r/minipainting.

u/spruce_sprucerton · 2 pointsr/minipainting

My bet is it's the one in this Reaper Learn to Pain Kit

It's listed as coming with: "Core Skills includes everything you need to start painting, including 11 Bottles of MSP Core Colors, MSP HD, and MSP Bones Paints (9030-Leather Brown, 9037-Pure Black, 9429-Dragon White, 9452-Blade Steel, 9054-Polished Silver, 9433-Mountain Stone, 9200-Harvest Brown, 9413-Naga Green, 9432-Desert Sand, 9408-Candlelight Yellow, 29815-Dragon Blue)"

So I'd guess Naga Green. (Though a commenter says there may be substitutions in the kit.)

u/crstrong91 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Got it for Christmas, was pretty easy to follow!

u/Grunherz · 2 pointsr/minipainting
u/MrZwij · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I had zero experience and got a lot out of the Reaper Learn to Paint kit Amazon link. It comes with very good printed instructions.

It doesn't have red or yellow a fleshtone though. Just a thing to keep in mind.

e: derp fix

u/JDdan · 2 pointsr/SWlegion

If you’re talking about the Reaper Learn to Paint kits they’re pretty awesome. I didn’t find out about them until I had already been painting a while too, but some friends and coworkers have picked them up and seem to love them.

For those that haven’t heard of them, with each set you get a few minis, a brush, some paints and a guide to walk you through some basic techniques that’ll get you painting at least tabletop quality.

u/ProgenitorX · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I would highly recommend you try this Learn to Pain Kit and maybe follow up with this second one if you enjoyed it. I really helped me a lot to grasp some basic concepts when painting.

u/Philostic · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I usually paint reaper minis, but for him you could honestly just get a bag of green army men and prime them grey, then move on to more intricate minis (and expensive) minis when he learns the basics (and doesn't lose patience.)

As for paints, a normal acrylic set should work out, you could also look into a paint kit. I would honestly recommend the Reaper Bones Learn-to-Paint Kit as it was my first, comes with a decent selection of colors that don't require thinning for regular painting, as well as a couple brushes and 3 minis.

Hope this helps! :)

u/Ryno-r80 · 2 pointsr/MassiveDarkness

Yes I did post to Facebook.

Like any hobby you can spend a little or spend a lot. I always recommend this starter kit to new painters it gives you everything you need to get started, even some minis to practice on.

u/Kikkenass · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Ok. Gonna throw out a couple of suggestions to get you started.

First get a starter paint set.

You can get them from the local hobby shops

A few of them come with the basic supplies you need to get started.

The following ones come with a small set of paints, a brush and a miniature to paint. Often they also come with step by step instructions or online videos to watch

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Monsters Paint Set

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

Reaper Miniatures Master Series Paints #09970 Starter Set for Mini Figures

The Army Painter Kings of War Undead Miniatures Paint Set - Highly Pigmented Acrylic Model Paint Set - 10 Miniature Paints in 18ml Dropper Bottles

The above links are only there to show you what to look for.

Citadel also has a great range of paints but they are generally more expensive and don’t come with brushes or models to paint

Please. Buy local and support our FLGS (Friendly Local Game Stores) They are the reason why so many people are into these hobby’s.

Take a little while and find a couple of Nolzurs or Reaper miniatures you like to paint. They are inexpensive and will be great pieces to start with.

However if your gonna look online Miniature Market currently is having their Black Friday sale

What ever route you’re choose let us know what you did and show us your completed work. There are a lot of super helpful people here

u/anaveragedave · 2 pointsr/DungeonsAndDragons

Yep, just amazon it. Get the green one first, then the blue if you want more
Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

u/Grandtank19 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

The Reaper kit here

Is from what im aware of, the best mini painting starter set you can get, price effective too.

u/murgs · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Not from Canada, so I can't help you on the ordering stuff, but you can always check local brick and mortar gaming shops. If you find one that sells miniatures etc. not only can you buy your stuff there, they are probably also happy to help give you recommendations / stuff to practice with if they can gain you as a customer.

Oh and I would start with a starter set, not a mega set \^\^
(something like this but not completely overpricesed...)

u/coltonreese · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I figured this had been answered before, just wasn't sure where to look. Thanks for the response!

Would this kit be a good place to start? I'm hoping to have it by Friday because I've got all weekend free. So I want to order something today.

u/casualsax · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I would advise against re-buying the black edition. It is nicer, but the quality is still a bit lacking. For the figures, I know people have gone to using the old micro machine models. I'm not sure how available they are/how bad shipping would be to Portugal.

For painting, I highly recommend getting this kit from Reaper. The instructions are easy to follow and it comes with everything needed to get started. Once you've painted the three included figures I would look into ordering the colors you want to use. Generally speaking, you would need to:

  • Prep the figures, meaning wash them with dish soap. You can file down the mold lines first if they annoy you, I probably wouldn't bother with it.
  • I haven't painted the Star Wars Risk ships before, but I'd suspect you'll need a primer. I think spray primer is the easiest to use. I'd go with white, I think its trickier to "paint up" from black.
  • Primary color for each ship. This will probably be a shade of gray, with a little red mixed in to give the rebel ships that warm used feeling. I'd go a little brighter shade than you want the end product to be.
  • A matching wash, or just a thinned and darkened version of your primer. This is a really thin, wet coat that gets into the nooks and crannies to give the model depths.
  • Accent paint colors, like orange for the X-Wings, blacks for the windows and bright reds for the engines.

    I'd skip doing highlights for that many figures, and I wouldn't bother sealing them either. I'd also paint one figure of each type first, then do batch runs in series (prime everything, base coat everything, wash everything..)

    Hopefully this can get you started improving your set. :)
u/Merendino · 2 pointsr/minipainting

>1: You say you use Vallejo paints, what is the reason for using that brand, Cost? Quality?

Boils down to really just two things.... the model air/game air paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing which is super handy, especially when starting out, and two, dropper bottles are infinitely better for airbrush work than those stupid-ass paint pots GW makes. I have LOTS of GW paints as they are amazing paints. (expensive, but amazing) Typically i brush paint with GW and airbrush with Vallejo.

>2: For some reason, that airbrush costs nearly 60 pounds :D (i live in the UK, if you hadnt guessed!) if i were to get that specific airbrush, what else would i need to make it work, you mention an Air Compressor (brand? type?) and a Water Trap (whats the purpose of that - as i say, bit of a noob here!), what else, some sort of Hose to connect the compressor to the brush i assume? any cleaning supplies? which specific paints do you use?

WTF?! That airbrush is 60 fuckin pounds in the UK. Shit. At any rate, ANY TANK compressor will work. A tank compressor compresses air into a giant tank that is THEN let out of the tank through the brush, which allows for smooth flow. If it were an air compressor without a tank then it would "putt, putt, putt air out." which is deadly for airbrush work. You want smooth constant air flow.

Airbrush to Compressor Hose

Water trap for air compressors Note: these aren't 100% necessary for a larger tank air compressor as the large tank somewhat does exactly what this little guy does. These are usually only necessary for a compressor that isn't a tank fed. Moisture through condensed air is a real problem and if it gets into your paint, it'll fuck up your smoothness of airbrushing.

My exact compressor, which can be used for LOTS of things, not just airbrushing. Note: the only downside to these types of compressor is how goddamned loud they are. Pretty much HAVE to be used outdoors.

I connect the airbrush to the hose i linked earlier. I connect that hose to the water trap i linked earlier. I connect the water trap to a standard thick cheap air compressor hose. I connect the cheap air compressor hose to the air compressor.

I assure you it's FAR less complicated than it seems. That masters brush i linked you earlier comes with a 'quick release' that is STUPID handy. It connects to the airbrush hose (the blue-ish one linked) really quickly.

I use pretty much exclusively Vallejo Air paints.

Model Air Standard Colors

Model Air Range

Game Air Range

Only difference between game and model air ranges is the color vibrance and ability to be touched repeatedly and not wear off. (should not be a problem at all if you varnish your models though). Game air colors are generally formulated to mimic the GW range as well.

The only difference between Game and Model vs Game Air/Model Air is that the Air versions of them are pre-thinned and ready to shoot through an airbrush straight outta the bottle. You can buy almost any of those colors individually from amazon.

Also, Airbrush Guru is THE best resource I've seen on the subject. TON of helpful tips and tricks. Great in-depth reviews of noob friendly airbrushes and how to clean them. Most of the things I've linked you to buy can be used for things OTHER than airbrushing. The reasons for that are they are cheap. Good airbrushes run for hundreds of dollars. Shitty ones that still work awesome are priced accordingly. Start small, then dive in from there.

Lastly but not in the very least... safety is king. DO NOT AIRBRUSH IN A CLOSED ROOM WITH NO VENTILATION.

Airbrushing acrylics is the safest of the paints to shoot through, but even they can get in your lungs and over time cause problems. If you are going to try to airbrush indoors make sure you setup a proper ventilation system or have in place a spray booth. Something like this would be fine.

P.S. This is incredibly handy as well, like, more handy than anything I've shown you so far. It is obviously NOT necessary, but once you start airbrushing I would guarantee you that it'll be the next thing you buy. Helps when you need to sit the airbrush down but you still have paint in the cup. Enjoy! Again, go to that website, The Airbrush Guru for the best information. It's fantastic, seriously.

u/metalt · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Stuff that you need:

  • Compressor - What I use There are lots of different compressors out there but you want to at least get one that is designed for airbrushing IE: oil-less and preferably one with a tank. Airbrush compressors are designed to be quiet as opposed to like a shop compressor that is loud as fuck.

  • Airbrush - What I use This is an Iawata eclipse which is more on the expensive side but honestly since the airbrush is what is doing all of the work I opted for quality here. This is not to say that you cannot find good quality airbrushes for less but this particular name and model is fairly well known for being one of the best. You might want to shop around on this one to find one within your budget. The main thing is that you want gravity feed with the cup on the top of the airbrush, and dual action meaning that you press the trigger down for air only and pull back for paint. Single action airbrushes (paint and air together when you depress the trigger) are garbage.

  • Airbrush Flow Improver - link This is what makes airbrushing thick acrylics especially GW paints possible. It allows you to thin down the paints while maintaining good coverage but won't speed up drying time like thinner or pure water will.

  • Misc other stuff - You will also want latex gloves for the hand that you hold models with. Find at auto parts stores or in the first aid section of a drug store in boxes of 100. Masks, either the paper disposable ones or get a painters respirator mask at the hardware store. Simple Green for cleaning your airbrush. I run a full paint cup of it through followed by a full paint cup of water in between colors and when I finish for the day. Gun/Pistol oil for oiling up the moving parts of the airbrush. Find at any place that sells firearms (walmart, academy, outdoor goods stores). I use it to oil up the trigger, as well as all of the threading. I also dip the needle itself in the oil which lightly lubricates the spray nozzle and helps to prevent clogs.

  • Final tip - everything that I learned about airbrushing I have learned from this dude on youtube: Next Level Painting I suggest watching his videos as well as videos from other youtubers to avoid a lot of trial and error. Lastly ... don't be intimidated... it takes practice but once you feel comfortable with using the airbrush it really ups your painting game.
u/dravenhavok · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Use aribrush flow improver rather than thinner if you're doing a lot of air brushing, it slows down the drying on the paint and prevents buildups on the tip. I like the this kind.

u/Beadpool · 2 pointsr/MarvelLegends

The gold standard.
Citadel Paint, Shade: Nuln Oil

I also have a wide selection of Army Painter washes that came with the complete set of paints.

Just use sparingly and have a dry brush handy to soak up any excess. You can always layer up!

u/bokan · 2 pointsr/Doom

That thing needs a wash to darken it up and increase the grit.


u/NoGameNoLyfe · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Hahaha. No problem
(Hobby Link Japan Marker Black)
(Hobby Link Japan marker Grey)
(Amazon set of 3)
(Amazon Tamiya Panel Wash Black)
(Amazon Tamiya Panel Wash Grey)
I put links from Hobby link Japan because thats what people here recommend using, bit I also put Amazon because it might be easier for you. Unfortunately I couldn't find the wash on Hobby link. Happy Building 😁

u/MachateElasticWonder · 2 pointsr/Gunpla
u/ardajoceleri · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I used the Pathfinder Battles Deep Cuts Female Dwarf Summoner mini because it was the only female dwarf at my FLGS and it was inexpensive. I will say if you've never bought this brand/type, the detail shown in the picture online is far above and beyond the actual mini, and I assume the pic is a computer render. This may already be obvious to y'all, I dunno!

Anyway, I sliced her hands/spell effects off at the wrist with a utility knife and sculpted new hands from Apoxie Sculpt, leaving a hole through one fist to fit the axe I sculpted. I also added a beard, because I love lady dwarfs with beards, and trimmed a little off her head as well so it could fit the dragon skull I sculpted too. Wasn't sure what to put in her other hand but ended up cutting off a generic monster head from one of many cheap baddie minis I had, just so she'd look extra badass, I suppose. (I think I should not have used generic super glue to attach the monster head though, as it left a white film and ended up falling off anyway.) I also trimmed a little away of the base so she could sit on her new mount, a huge polar bear (for the Mammoth Rider Pathfinder prestige class).

I painted everything with this super basic starter set of Army Painter paints. I intended the colors to be pretty neutral and natural, because the character makes a lot of her own gear from animal hides, bones, etc. Didn't really know what I was doing, so tips are appreciated, but be gentle :) I used almost the cheapest mini and paints I could find because I was afraid I would be terrible and end up wasting money on a hobby that I would suck at. It turned out better than I expected though, and inspired me to want to paint my Heroforge mini too. Any suggestion for the next (not too expensive) tool/paint/whatever I should get?

u/frostape · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For example, I'm building Orks and got:

Kings of War Dwarfs:

Kings of War Greenskins:

Starter Kit:


Which got me all the metallics, 3 washes, a variety of good Ork paints, and a brush for less than the Mega set.


u/654278841 · 2 pointsr/WorldOfWarships

The only basic supplies you will need are paint brushes and acrylic model paints. A starter set like this for you would be perfect, if you're in Taiwan you can probably find something local for much cheaper.

If you want more videos on how to get started, the basics are covered very well in my opinion by Games Workshop videos. They sell models for a science fiction miniatures game but the ideas of painting models are universal and this will really help you!

Basic painting of a military vehicle:

Another basic military vehicle tutorial:

Adding weathering and battle damage:

And the great thing about acrylic hobby paints is that they can be easily removed from the model, so if you don't like what you did you can remove it all and start again fresh!

u/Publix_Deli · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

> For example, this box set contains almost all the colors you will ever need (other than specific ones).

These paints are great. I bought the same set and the dropper bottles are perfect for painting with a wet palette. I've grown to hate the GW paint pots. You can also use test tube holders to organize them at your painting station.

u/Brentoxor · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For example, this box set contains almost all the colors you will ever need (other than specific ones).

Obvious colors for these models - army green for the green armor, necrotic flesh for highlighting the armor, skeleton bone probably for the pants (may need to add a little brown depending on the color you like), and one of the flesh tones for the skin. They primarily used the dark tone (black) wash on the basically the entire model, I think we could do better. Recommend, flesh wash for skin, dark tone for weapon and armor crevices, and soft tone (brown) for the paints. Khaki pants and black detailing is just too much contrast for my taste.

Side note, Army painter's paint brushes are decent but there are other options. I recommend the Virtuoso paint brush set, that will give you every kind of brush you would need.

u/blackbearjt · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

The Army Painter Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus Wargamer Regiment Miniature Paint Brush - Acrylic Model Paint Set with 50 Bottles of Non Toxic Model Paints - Mega Paint Set 3
I also used a few citadel paints

u/PerfectTortilla · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I use gw paints, mainly because I just always have, and I'm used to them, but if you wanna use some better quality, most people recommend vallejo or army painter. You can get a pretty good start with a variety of colors for army painter on Amazon for a pretty good price.

And I know you didn't, but I use their brushes, this set is a good starting point.

u/global_tornado · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Well, depending on the level of newbness the following might be helpful:

Use Tamiya Extra Thin Plastic Cement (green cap) instead of super glue for the grey plastic stuff. It won't work on Resin though. Buy it at a Hobbytown USA or off Amazon.

Use wire cutters to remove stuff from the sprues, don't twist. Even a cheap $4 pair of Hakko cutters works fine. I use a small Gerber pocket knife to scrape off mold lines.

Don't get caught caught up into magnetizing stuff. Just glue it and be done. Nobody is going to care if you say a Carnosaur counts as a Troglodon for a game, or if your Saurus Knights are not really using the lances they are modeled with.

Apparently massive amounts of Skinks are a good investment for current Seraphon. I'd not buy more than 2 boxes while waiting for a new battletome though.

If you REALLY screw up a model, you can fix it with green stuff 99% of the time.

Army Painter sells a 50 paint set that I fully endorse. Drip bottles that won't dry out quickly like GW paints.

Ebay is a good resource. You'll have to click worldwide on the left.

Sometimes you can get stuff you can't find on Amazon at your local independent hobbystores or official GW stores that keep old stock, like unsold copies of Carrion Empire. One example, Chaos Lord on foot is a website exclusive, but you can have it shipped to a store for free instead of $10 to your home. You have to place the order in person with the store staff for that specific shop to get credit for the sale though.

u/totally_just_bob · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Check with your local game store(s) or Meetup to see if they have scheduled painting nights. You can get instant feedback/tips and most people are willing to share paints so you can get a better idea of what brands you prefer.

No single paint company is hands-down better than the others right now. You're starting the hobby at an excellent time - while you may seem overwhelmed by options right now, you'll soon realize that all that competition has led to some incredible paints and supplies at decent prices.

That said, the Reaper learning to paint kits that have already been mentioned are a great starting point. I still have paints from my first Reaper kit from over 10 years ago and almost all of them are still usable.
Another option is Army Painter's newer line of color sets. $100 will get you a very comprehensive range of colors, metallics, and washes.

u/Aaurican · 2 pointsr/ender3
u/ironman1231 · 2 pointsr/AustinRP

Good luck finding a group!
Emerald Tavern and Dragon's Lair both carry a couple of lines of paint (I'd personally avoid Games Workshop paints, they're overpriced and the pots will help your paint dry out).
King's Hobby has a great selection of paints from companies you won't find elsewhere in town.
If you're just starting, brushes from craft stores or great.

A great way to get all the paints you'd need to really get started is the Army Painter Set, which has 50 paints, a guide, and a brush to get started with:

u/Trailphaze · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I recently bought one of these sets. they're pretty good and fairly cheap compared to buying idividually. the brush it comes with is great for large areas but i wouldnt try doing any detail with it. you do have to shake the bottles like crazy though.

u/Pidge404 · 2 pointsr/SWlegion

I got the paint set on amazon for 25-30 ish USD. It’s army paint brand, which I think is the same brand as the upcoming legion paints.

Here you go!

u/painfulwincing · 2 pointsr/DnDIY

If you're looking to get started in painting for D&D, get the offical D&D paint sets from Army Painter. They come with brushes, and each set also comes with a mini.

Basic colors and a Minsc mini

Second set, more colors and an owlbear mini


And the number one piece of advice for new painters is thin your paints. Always thin your paints and keep them thin.

u/leftlobe · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Hey, I’m also pretty new to the hobby. I picked up one of these And I have been pretty happy with it. For some reason my local hobby shop had it a little cheaper than amazon so if you have a store around you that might sell this stuff I would check it out. It comes with a decent selection of good paint, #1 brush and a miniature for you to get started.

u/DraconicDak · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I personally recommend Tamiya's clear coats, as they spray thin and cure fast.

I haven't used it myself so I can't recommend on experience, but Mr. Hobby is another well-liked brand for clear coats.

u/majintb · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Amazon if I'm not in Pasadena or Baldwin Park:

Tony's Hobbies if I'm in Baldwin Park:

Custom RC if I'm in Pasadena:

Just look for stores that sell trains, RC or planes, and chances are that they stock 'em :)

u/ScottyP-Seibertron · 1 pointr/transformers

I use Tamiya TS-13 spray cans. Had some very good results over time. 1 coat is ok, 2-3 thin, light coats are ideal.

Future/Pledge Floor Shine Stuff Whatever It's Called Now works fine too, I'm just a snob with materials.

u/SillyNonsense · 1 pointr/starwarscollecting

That's nice. Didn't even know this existed. How much? Do you know what scale it is or how tall?

I just bought the Bandai 1/48 scale model kit and will be putting it together this weekend. I want to apply something like the Tamiya 87085 weathering set but I havent done my research yet to know what type of paint it even is or how to properly seal it.

I'm curious about this 1/50 from Sega also.

u/ForsakenMantra · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar


Basecoat with a dark gray, highlighed with two lighter shades of gray and then a black wash. Re-highlight with watered down paint.

Weathered with this. Added some oxide technical paints.

Blues are just started with dark colors and brought lighter and lighter with a light white blue mix for the middle.

I used a small piece of sponge to add the greens and ochre colors. Finally I painted small black cracks and highlighted some edges with white-grey mixture.

u/captainwacky91 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Dry brushing techniques, graphite pencils, powdered makeup with earth tones, Weathering kits, salting and/or hairspray chipping, deforming/bending parts by means of heat....

There's lots of ways you can weather a build. Just keep in mind that in many cases, less is more.

u/EndGamE0630 · 1 pointr/gaslandsplayers

For paint chipping, get some Ak Interactive Ak00089 - Heavy Effects Acrylic Fluid

For rust, get a Tamiya 87085 Weathering Master C Set

u/TravCity19 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Neither. It's this:

(Sorry for not formatting a hyperlink, sending from my mobile, don't know how)

u/NoSlawXtraToast · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I've been struggling with realistic looking bone myself, but I think I nailed it on my latest attempt, the chimney stacks on my Carnifex's back came out pretty good:
Carnifex 1
Carnifex 2

I did this by layering up to bleach bone starting with a dark brown using really thin coats. But that's for painting a flat surface.

Nid-flesh is all about washes, so I'd probably start with one shade darker than bleached bone, wash brown, then 2 thin layers of bleached bone on top. I find it helps a lot to thin with an actual thinning agent instead of just water. The one I currently use is a P3 brand that I picked up at my FLGS, but essentially you'd want something like this:

u/papyjohns · 1 pointr/Gunpla

tamiya ts 80



is that a good alternate top coat? mr top coat is nowhere in stock... and apparently the super clear is lacquer based and no good over decals and panel liners? so that leaves me the taimya one? is that ok to use?

u/Aperture_Kubi · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So I'm looking into my first project that's more than a straight build. Specifically I'm thinking of a recolor of a Kyrios from orange to green (college/workplace colors, and fortunately white is our secondary).

The right order is Primer, paint, panel line, topcoat right? And then just topcoat for the pieces I don't recolor?

Also on topcoating, do you spray that on each external piece individually, or on the whole unit assembled?

Lastly, if I get into weathering effects, that's after painting and before topcoat right?

My batch of cheap Leos finally came in, so I have a few grunt units to mess with.

u/furrythrowawayaccoun · 1 pointr/modelmakers

You're probably looking for PS-55 or TS-80 from Tamiya as well. I personally never used these but I asked a mate I know and he said they're great

u/Trainn51 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm planning on top coating some HGs. I'm also using gundam markers for small details and the pour type markers for panel lines. Which top coat would be better: tamiya, mr. hobby top coat, mr. premium top coat spray, or mr. super clear, or maybe anyone have other recommendations?

u/dodomir23 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

unfortunately i live in somewhat of a countryside and need everything shipped...

this looks a lot more reasonable but I've seen some people saying it melts your gunpla or something...? have you had any experience with this one?


nevermind, this looks like a very good alternative

u/intog · 1 pointr/CAJmods


I wonder if I can get it locally somewhere, maybe Michaels or Joanns?

I grabbed some clear coat paints from Home Depot and am going to try those first.

I learn as I go...

u/DarkOdeus · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

So order some of this

And get the Agathrax Earth and just mix it with water to make a wash to cover him in?

u/wcfore01 · 1 pointr/minipainting

So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)

I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp

Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.

Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras

Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed

Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now

Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that

Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential

u/geekd · 1 pointr/minipainting

I think Amazon has it for around $8, but my local Michaels craft store has it for $4.99

Amazon link:

I've bought it from that exact link before I realized my local store had it cheaper.

u/HailSneezar · 1 pointr/yoyhammer

one thing worth mentioning is that the plastic ones are mostly 1 piece and basically indestructible. i have probably around 60 of the dark vengeance cultists and when i painted them, i gave them a nice thick layer of dullcote at the end. i've used them in probably over 50 games now and moved twice, none of them have chipped paint or any broken weapons. i know i've dropped at least 10 of them from a standing position to a concrete surface and they just bounce around.

u/Chronecrosis · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I suggest Testors Dullcote. It's a fair price and specifically made for models.

u/sinndogg · 1 pointr/Warhammer

I think the main problem there is using it in cold weather, which causes it to congeal faster.

People always recommend Testors Dull Cote to me as an alternative to Purity Seal, so it might be worth looking into instead.

u/kafkakafkakafka · 1 pointr/Warmachine

I use Dull Cote,

Sometimes I use the non-Dull one.

u/TroutMasqueReplicant · 1 pointr/minipainting

I've only ever really used brush on primer, and it works out fine for me. I use Vallejo Surface Primer Grey, as well as Black (these can be mixed for darker shades too) you can get them in a selection of colours up to 200ml in size.

u/RedditSlave1294 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Do you know if the Testors is any good? I've also had people tell me you can't use lacquers over acrylics, is this true?

u/lowlifebaby · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

this stuff right here turns any gloss finish into a very nice flat finish

u/chimusicguy · 1 pointr/modelmakers

After you finish building and doing the primary paint, put on a coat of Future (that is the brand)- it will be shiny, but this will help protect the model and let you decal and weather it easier. After you get the decals on and your weathering (including panel lines), you can go shiny with another coat of Future, or go matte (normal) with a spray matte finish ($few at your local model store, or here is the one I like).

u/DragonPup · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If you don't have a hobby store nearby, I recommend this:

u/codecass89 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Can anyone tell me if this top coat would be the appropriate kind to use for a gunpla? This would be my first time top-coating and want to make sure I get the right stuff! Wanting to find a good "matte" top coat as been recommended on this sub to me.

u/Crylaughing · 1 pointr/CAJmods

That's what I use, but I'm sure the other stuff would work just fine.

u/ViperXeon · 1 pointr/Warhammer30k

Yep, OP do yourself a favour and buy some of this stuff to stop overspray:

Tamiya Masking tape in various widths

Maskol Liquid Mask

u/hobosox · 1 pointr/minipainting

Not super cheap but this will do the trick. You can also use poster tack (YMV with different brands). Maybe spray a coat of matte varnish on before applying tape/putty just to be safe.

Masking fluid could work too, but it has some caveats. You need to paint it on pretty thick, and don't let it sit for too long or it will be hard to get it all off. Its better for paint chips and small things, I don't recommend it for hoards of tyranids.

Masking is one of the drawbacks of airbrushing. You might be better off using a brush for the red, then carefully airbrushing highlights with just some quick masking. Then go back and touch up the blue with a brush if needed.

u/zeCrazyEye · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

This set of shaders right here is the most important thing you can buy. If you don't want to invest that much you can just buy Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade individually and be fine.

If you already have acrylic paints you can just use what you have - just make sure to thin them until they are almost as thin as milk. Thick paint will cover up detail.

You will also want Krylon Matte finish or Testor's Dullcote matte finish to seal the mini.

I recommend watching Sorastro's painting guides, his Zombicide series starts from the most basic techniques.

u/Sir_Jamsession · 1 pointr/minipainting

I like these. but always with the knowledge that I can make my own with about a 1:8 ratio of any paints that I have. Use the color wheel as your guide. Cool colors recede while warm colors pop out. Try experimenting with different colors and see what effects you get, and what makes you happy. On faces I use a bit of blue in the shadows to help them recess, while using red in other places to help it come out.

Also, I typically repeat 3 and 4 multiple times.

u/TheOwlGod · 1 pointr/minipainting

Shade set

Having little pots of most is fine --- I mostly use nuln and agrax.

u/VirtuallyJason · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Yeah... mini paint is expensive... but it's also generally worth it. I'd recommend picking up one of the variety packs (I got a lot of mileage out of the Vallejo Basic USA Colors Kit, although the yellow and the orange weren't strong enough in my opinion). While the paints are certainly expensive, they last quite a long time. I've painted over a hundred minis (and a fair amount of terrain) and I still have at least half of every bottle. After I bought the basic set, I then bought a few individual bottles for colors that I felt were lacking. I specifically got a new orange, a new yellow, a couple of greys and a couple of additional browns. That set of colors has worked really well for me!

Something else to consider is washes. A friend got me a Games Workshop set for my birthday and it's been really nice. Once again, it's got a steep upfront cost, but the supplies will last a good long time.

u/BenderB-Rodriguez · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

i put a small amount of gold from Game color polished gold on a paper plate. Take an eye dropper and get some water and add 1-2 water drops on top. take a brush and mix together and whip the excess off on the paper plate while twisting to get a point(ish) on the brush. Then apply to model.

I'm still working on this model in several places. I got tired when i got to the current point last night. still need to go over the cape and some details again for additional layers.

paints i'm using

Shade paints (citadel)

and a few random citadel base and layer paints, 2 reds and 2 flesh tones.

all advice welcome. I still don't like the lack of smoothness i see in some spots on my models.

u/Zinnuvial · 1 pointr/minipainting

Ooooh thanks! I'll have to watch that video! I just ordered the Citadel set as well. I'll do a couple of side-by-sides and post the results. Hopefully this weekend, since I'm still waiting for them to come in the mail.

Thanks for giving me the motivation!

u/Ceiryus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Canadian here also.
I bought mine from Panel Line Accent Color 3 Pack
Only took about 6 business days to deliver to my door, and the paint well within date. Though packaging was a little questionable, with the 3-pack glass bottles being shipped in just a single layer bubble wrap envelope. @[email protected]

I also checked my local hobby store (Hobby Wholesale) and they actually started stocking it when when I went there a few days ago, but they sell it individually ($9 each)

u/ZeroV8 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Anyone have experience with Tamiya Panel Line Accent? I've been using it to do panel washes on my most recent kits, but I'm actually less satisfied with it than just using Gundam markers. It usually flows pretty well, but I'm having a lot of trouble removing the excess. I'm using a cotton bud dipped in lighter fluid, but it often seems to remove too much, which results in me having to reapply the wash, which you really don't want to have to do with enamels. Any other panel washing tips are appreciated.

Here is the product I'm referring to:

u/nillic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I would use a brown or sepia panel wash on the Trans-Am.

It's what we use at my house, it's subtle but still defines everything really well


u/holocause · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Tamiya Accent Panel Wash comes in Brown. The link is for the set but you can get it individually.

u/jabringmann · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/ducttapealien · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I prefer Tamiya panel wash to markers. you can get a much cleaner line.

The caution it that if you are not painting your kit, gloss coat and THEN panel line with this stuff (clean up with a drop of lighter fluid on a q-tip), because the solvent in the wash can eat away at the bare plastic and make it brittle.

so Gloss> panel line/decal> Top coat of your choice.

u/Fudgems11 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Thanks. The blue on the main body is the colored plastic. All of the other solid colors are decals. Beyond that I used an enamel wash to bring out the details and panel lines. I used the wash and these Tamiya weathering colors to weather it.

u/Parroty64 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

What is the best set of things to start out with weathering? For instance, is this a good set?

What are good brushes or other items I would need to weather my sets? Thanks a lot!

u/ShadowRex · 1 pointr/Charlotte

I also bought Tamiya weathering material. I'm really excited!

u/Youre_a_transistor · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

Hey Time-killing, thank you for the advice. I have one more question if you don't mind. I think I'm going to get started by going with the basic Reaper Learn to paint Bones kit to get my feet wet and see how that feels.

You recommended some Space Marines earlier to practice on and while I think that's a cool idea, I'm more into fantasy stuff. Can you recommend anything like that but more on the fantasy side?

Edit: Maybe something like this? Black Ark Corsairs? These minis have armor, weapons and different material types. Is that what you were going for with your original example?

Bonus question from someone who can't stop sweating the details: Do you think the Reaper paints would be "wasted" on those GW minis? Should I try to acquire some Vallejo and Citadel paints to make the most out of painting GW minis?

And I hope you're having a happy new year as well. :D

u/minotaur05 · 1 pointr/DungeonsAndDragons

I honestly just bought this and started by following the written instructions:

After I painted the minis, I just went to my FLGS and grabbed a handful of cheap minis to practice on and a few paint brushes from Michaels. The basic techniques you learn from that book are like 80% of painting a mini. The rest comes with experience and playing around with techniques, colors, layers, etc

Also, I am the least artistic person and I feel mine arent terrible.

Edit: As for the issue with time, whenever I want to watch a show, I setup my stuff and paint while I watch. It passes the time and I get two things done at once. I would recommend no distractions for the first minis you paint though to get a feel for how it works.

u/scanlan_MVP · 1 pointr/criticalrole

You should really give it a shot! It's not that hard once you get into it, and it feels really good once you get your first model finished.
I have zero artistic talent, but started out with the Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Kit, and that worked out pretty well. You could also check out the G&S series Painter's Guild for tips as well.

u/JimmyD101 · 1 pointr/ArcadiaQuest

Reaper has a Learn to Paint kit which may interest you. For brushes I just use cheap $2 brushes from my local hobby store, theyre imitation sable (which means fake hair, so not expensive) in sizes from 2 down to 000.

I would also strongly recommend looking into wet palettes if you get started- you can home make one insanely easy using some wet tissue and baking paper to keep paints from drying out.

u/bigbadmax · 1 pointr/ender3

I’m an amateur as well. I bought this and a nice set of brushes but really just YouTube video. I’m lucky to have a friend who is really talented at painting minis so he has given me a lot of pointers

u/arduousardor · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

Yeah! The base kit is [Reaper Miniatures Learn to Paint Kit](reaper miniatures 08906 learn to paint bones kit

Gives you 2 brushes, paint, figures and instructions on painting.

Then you do the [layer up kit](layer up bones miniatures learn to paint kit reaper miniatures

u/KunfusedJarrodo · 1 pointr/minipainting
u/Smoda · 1 pointr/minipainting

Link to the kit on amazon:

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To...

u/nemotastic · 1 pointr/DnD

I used this in combination with youtube videos when i started up. It was very helpful to follow the guide and use the exact paints on the exact miniatures so i could SEE the difference it was making.

u/MrHasuu · 1 pointr/DungeonsAndDragons

Are you following any tutorials? I'm new to mini painting myself and may i suggest something? Reaper Miniatures Learn To Paint Bones Kit is what i bought and what i'm learning from. I think it might be worth trying out.

Here's my first mini, i'm working on the second one from the kit now : The Orc.

u/doodman76 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k <--- I started with this one

Game Color Intro Set (16) <----a little bit pricey, but gives you more paints so....

As I stated, I got the reaper set to start with a few months ago and then just started buying citadel paints as I needed them to fluff up what I didnt have and I still mix my own colors for parchment and skulls, since I dont need that much of it.

Personally, I like citadel paints. I find they thin easily and flow nicely, and the colors are the official colors for the models. But I hate the pots they come in, so I bought empty 15 ml vials to pour them into.

u/McKrabz · 1 pointr/DnD

If you can find a sculpt that fits with your character's description somewhat, that would be a good place to start. Hero Forge is kind of expensive to make mistakes on a first-time paint job (upwards of $20 USD). You can pick up a Reaperbones or Wizkids Nolzur's Unpainted packet for a couple of bucks (~$3-$4 USD) and those are much more affordable to make mistakes on.

As some other people have said, there are real, significant differences between craft acrylic paint and acrylic paint that's been specifically designed for painting miniatures. Higher pigment density, smaller particle size, etc. Reaper makes a nice learn to paint kit that has everything you'd need to get started, including a few of their Bones series minis. Might be worth checking it out. I've heard some of the colors don't always match what the description states though

Unfortunately I can't attest to how much it would cost for delivery outside of the US so that might suck

u/laloge · 1 pointr/minipainting

Pick up a reaper bones starter kit. They come with instructions and explain the starter techniques well. It also won't cost you a ton and you won't be super invested if the hobby turns out to not be for you. I got the kit yesterday and I haven't been able to put my brush down. Link for the kit:

u/m477z0r · 1 pointr/DnD

I'd go with the Reaper Bones Learn-to-Paint kit. It comes with brushes, 3 Bones miniatures, and paints as well as an instruction book to start teaching you the basics of of getting your paint on the figure, washing, and highlighting. If you like that kit they have a second kit that will teach you to layer.

u/Marshall104 · 1 pointr/Warhammer

I don't know if this will fit the citadel pots, but at less than half the cost it may be worth a shot. Plus you get some paints and some miniatures in a foam insert with a nice small hard case.

Edit: forgot to add the link to what I was talking about...

u/chazbamfvonbagg · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Army painter starter set or reaper learn to paint those are both solid starter sets that are an excellent quality with a printed how to. Army painter comes with washes and reaper comes with practice minis and a case. I cant recommend anything more than these two. Between the two go with what ever one is cheaper on amazon that day, or who ever you decide to buy from

u/StoneTownLegacy · 1 pointr/boardgames

I bought one of the Reaper learn to paint sets (link below). I never painted the minis that came with it, but know people who have. The colors work well for beginners. Thee is a decent mix and a full spectrum. Supplement that with a few other reaper bottles and you have a good start collection of paints for like $50.

From there, I kept on buying one or two bottles at a time and now own a bunch of paints. I stopped for a whole but starting painting again just last night! It's fun and relaxing. My Saturday shift at my local game store is coming to a close in the next month, so with more time I hope to paint some more coming up!

u/leafyhouse · 1 pointr/WarhammerUnderworlds

I've also never painted before, can you recommend a good...starting place? Beginning kit, tutorial you found helpful? I've looked into kits like this one.

I've also considered getting into painting, and this might help me with that as well.

u/TheNicklesPickles · 1 pointr/boardgames

I was interested in just painting up a few of my plastic miniatures for fun, and to make them a bit more interesting.

Got this as a starter kit, even comes with a few minis to paint so you can practice before you get started on the ones you care about:

I immediately bought a couple of extra colours, but it seemed like a pretty cost effective way to get started, and it comes with some instructions around technique, using the included miniatures as examples.

u/cfrech59 · 1 pointr/minipainting

reaper starter kit.

If you buy from reaper (more than on amazon) then for every $40 spent free shipping and a free mini (changes monthly)

u/muleskinnerslider · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Being a noob to painting prints, this is what I plan to do as a start. I'm printing a lot of miniatures and terrain for table top RPG's. However, it depends what you want to print and paint I suppose. I've been known to use a rattle can with basic success.

u/Entropy21 · 1 pointr/minipainting

They look 10 times better than most of mine.. that are still on the sprue and in a box.

Also as far as paint goes. Find a local game shop if you can and see if they have a beginner set. I know Reaper has one that comes with a few minatures. GW also had something at one point. Also Army Painter had one that went with Zombicide.

Edit: links

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

Games Workshop. Some of them have minis and some do not. If you do choose one without they have some great start collecting boxes.

Army painter Zombicide sets

u/Fabreze · 1 pointr/minipainting

For 35 bucks you get everything he will need in his very own kit.

You might be able to go cheaper at like 25 bucks buying Apple barrel and some cheapo brushes and a few cheap models but might as well spend the extra 10 and get paint that is intended for the hobby and a nice little carry case.

u/FrostiiLoL · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Vallejo Flow Improver on Amazon. And I found this description on the internet: This additive increases the flow of acrylic colours, by breaking down the surface tension of the water. It is ideal for the application of areas of flat and even colour without changing colour strength.

u/WeaselStink · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Looks good! That's a great setup, better than what I am working with.

I'd suggest adding a few things before ordering: (Buy it!! Trust me) (Will need for cleaning) (Cheap, disposable and super useful for mixing in bowl, won't scar the sides.... Cheaper at Wal-Mart)

u/IxI_DUCK_IxI · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Looks like everything you would need! Good choices :-)

While you don't need this right away, you may want to consider it:

It really helps to let the paint run in the airbrush and doesn't "Gob up" on the tip of the needle. It's not mandatory while you're learning how to use the airbrush (It's not mandatory at all actually) but it helps to improve the quality of what you're painting.

I hope to see some pics of your finished work soon! :-D

u/beltedgalaxy · 1 pointr/modelmakers
u/tyrified · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Water screws with the pigment distribution, I would suggest going to a hobby store (much cheaper than amazon) and picking up a bottle of airbrush flow improver. It will suspend the pigment much better than water, giving you an even distribution of paint. It is really evident when you do larger surfaces.

u/DefiantBidet · 1 pointr/Airbrushing

thinner makes it dry faster. so i agree with the other commenter its drying too fast. if you want to make it thinner to spray just use a flow improver - which slows down drying. i use liquitex flow aid (its like a 20:1 ratio of water to flowaid so it lasts forever). I've heard good things about vallejo flow improver as well.

i use tamiya paints often. i don't use thinner often... really only with clear coats. most tamiya just need a flow improver

u/Borken2 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Thin your citadel paints with some flow improver and a little water and they'll work great with an airbrush. I personally use vallejo flow improver:

u/ithinarine · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I use mostly Warcolours paints, which are listed on their website as "designed for use with paint brush and/or airbrush", but you need to thin them out quite a bit. I use Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver to thin them down.

Don't use any Citadel paints in an airbrush, besides their new Air paints. The pigment particles in their regular paints are too large, and will clog up your airbrush no matter how much you thin them.

I've never tried any Vallejo paint of any kind, so I have no opinion on them. I just back in to the hobby with 8th Edition, and read nothing but good things about Warcolours paints, so I bought the full line (literally). All base coats, all layers, all metallics, something like 140 paints. Last time I played, I never used anything but Citadel, and I remember them being such a pain to use because they are so thick, and seem to dry out extremely quickly. The Warcolours paints have the awesome dropper bottles like Vallejo, which makes it super easy mix, and keep them air tight.

I still use Citadel for washes and shades, and some metallics, they probably have the best metallics.

u/windupmonkeys · 1 pointr/modelmakers

For Vallejo, you should consider getting some flow improver (their version of paint retarder.). See:

Vallejo has a bad tendency to dry tip the brush. Water does work as a thinner.

Tamiya thins with alcohol. It's dead simple to work with by comparison, and works even better with lacquer thinner that they make (referred to as X-20 thinner; X-20A is specifically for the acrylics, but frankly, it works better with the lacquer thinner). The branded acrylic thinner is largely alcohol with some additional additives. They also make a standalone paint retarder, for brush painting and if you need longer working time.

There is no fixed PSI setting that works perfectly every time, nor is there a permanently fixed ratio. It's a ballpark figure. Spray to clear between colors or as it starts to jam up, then finally, spray clear with thinner, clean with cotton swabs the nozzle, needle, and paint cup when done.

It's not as complicated a process that you're making it out to be.

u/starg00se · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

Try to get some of those to fix the miniature on a champagne cork. Works perfect. Then use some grounding like
Then paint the miniature and finish with some Nuln Oil like
That should help. Have fun!

u/BrokedickDerryl · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey man! I used Tamiya X 20! Here's the link
TAMIYA 87131 Panel Line Accent Color Black For Plastic Model Kit

u/arvzg · 1 pointr/Gunpla

not sure if there are special considerations for a zaku, but a huge step up from markers are these tamiya panel line accent colors. These look like other paint bottles, but actually they're much easier to use. They come with a sort of brush tip on the other side of the lid, and all you need to do is just to 'touch' the wet tip into a panel line, and the paint will just 'fill' the gaps in the panel through gravity. Look up videos if you're not familiar with panel washing.

You can see it comes in a variety of different colours, you should get 2 different ones and see which one works better, but 1 of them should be the black as it works quite well on most panel lines

u/ijjusion · 1 pointr/zombicide

If you're not into painting - the first bundle is fine if you're willing to put the money into it, the other bundles are too much for a beginner IMO

Something like:

Is a cheaper entry point - look for something in the same category as this, the primary colours + a few extras, a shade and a standard sized paint brush

This way you can try out painting and if you enjoy it, you can add to it from there, while not investing as heavily as the suggested bundles in the link are asking

Another option ~

Any paints from Army painter/Citadel/Vallejo are great places to start, just get whatever's got the best deal on at the time.

Only other suggestion would be to get a spray undercoat such as

Undercoat sprays make painting a mini MUCH easier and MUCH quicker, however, if you are only painting the bases and not any detail on the mini, you can get away with no undercoat spray
(You can get cheaper sprays but I find when you're new, picking one model paint brand and sticking to it to start with makes things easier to manage)

I've just grabbed links from Amazon, but you can find these products all over the place

u/Greatgamedad · 1 pointr/minipainting

I’ve used cheap paints and they range in usability. The folk art paints at Walmart are not too bad as long as your willing to do 3 or 4 coats. Those ones you’ve got there look like the ultra cheap stuff which I couldn’t even to get to show up on the models.

My recommendation is just buy the good paint, your spending 60+ usd on models. I just buy a few paints at a time as I need them. Go buy 3 colors you want for your army and go from there. Those cheap paints are just going to frustrate you.

Edit: go with something like this

u/Extech · 1 pointr/minipainting

Best starter paint set. The brush has lasted me ~3 years of regular use. Vallejo for any other color you might want. I'd stay away from Citadel and P3, it's overpriced and in paint pots that tend to dry out easier than bottles.

I'd get a cheap set of brushes for a few bucks from amazon/walmart, something like this. You can do 80% of painting with them, like your dry brushing and washes. All your details you can do with the brush from the starter set.

If you want to splurge I also used this set for ~3 years before I needed to replace the biggest brush, still use the other two. The smallest brush really comes in hand on minis.

u/_Anarchon_ · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

Your advice was welcomed. I ordered this kit...

...along with some primer, brushes, palette, and a head mounted light with magnifier. I'm sure I'll need more paints and washes, but figured I'll see what I can do with that kit before trying to get more so I can see exactly what I need and why. And yes, I plan to watch a lot of Youtube stuff. It's so handy for learning. Thank you. I'll try to remember to post a picture after I complete my first one.

u/LizardFTI · 1 pointr/minipainting

I just started painting too and opted for this set:

Biggest issue so far is that the red is super watery so takes a lot of layering to get any pigment on to the model. No idea if this is typically an issue for reds or if its this brand.

u/MFDork · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

Once you get past assembly (the advice here already is great!), you'll want to look at paints. Do yourself a favor and get a good primer (around $15, I use Army Painter flat black primer), and then 3 brushes (kolinsky sable is the best, but regular sable works fine too). Get a size 0, 1, and 2. Do not get super cheap brushes, but you don't need way out expensive brushes either. $8-12 a brush should be your target.

Then you've got to choose paints, and this will boil down to personal preference. Vallejo makes great paints, as does P3 and Army Painter. I'm not wild about Games Workshop's paints.

This is a great value, if you decide you like their paints.

u/sugarbannana · 1 pointr/bloodbowl

Any brand recommendations?
Found this brand on amazon, are they reasonable?

u/Ankoo93 · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Also the link you give sells the set for 189 dollars. I've got it for much much less on Amazon (in France) : 95 € (105 dollars) :

u/Aaron13oy · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I started with the army painter set on Amazon. Was like $80 but came with 50 colors some washes and a few metallic paints. They are fairly easy to use because they come in dropper bottles and are pretty thin on their own. I'll try to find the Amazon link if possible.

A little more expensive then I thought but is good bang for your buck. It is less then $2 per paint. That is very cheap for the quality and amount you get.

u/QFire000 · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Probably not what you mean, but if you buy the 50-pack it comes to less than $2/bottle

The Army Painter Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus Wargamer Regiment Miniature Paint Brush - Acrylic Model Paint Set with 50 Bottles of Non Toxic Model Paints - Mega Paint Set 3

u/eoddc5 · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

I'll post it here, so others can see.

Paint: Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus...

Brushes: MyArtscape Detail Paint Brush Set -...

Printer: Monoprice Mini Delta 3D Printer With...

u/bazooka_toot · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This is pretty good value if you really want to cover all your bases colour wise, then pick up some brushes and a can of primer.

I would however suggest going slow so you don't end up with a bunch of paints you don't need, I started with this, a little pot of citadel primer and those 4 brushes because it had all the colours I needed at the time. Now I just buy colours when I need them - normally a dark base and lighter same colour for highlighting. You don't really need $100 of paints when you can just buy what you need. Put whatever is left over towards an airbrush and compressor even if you only use it to prime.

I only have 14 colours, 3 shades, 1 environment, 2 mediums, a varnish and 2 primers and I use them all but never really feel like I am missing colours so don't waste money on 50 paints when half that will do.

u/GlowingTick · 1 pointr/minipainting

Army Painter is a separate brand from Vallejo. They make a wide variety of colors (they have their own range), not just limited to the colors you mentioned here.

Perhaps /u/mrgraverisen meant something like this

u/SirPanfred · 1 pointr/Miniaturespainting

Looks pretty good! This gives me hope, that I can do something similar. I have this startet-painting set, but did not find the courage to give it a try yet.

u/no-1-important-here · -4 pointsr/Warhammer40k

no, its impossible to drop a few drops on a painting board, mix with water and other colors..check out what providers do ->\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_xX-OCbJTMCEVR\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_cY-OCbKJNJB6C

what's this? i can use these to drop dot(s) of paint on a painting board and control the amount of paint being used...this, this the emperor! shocking i know..but alas there are better paint containers than these POS's.