(Part 2) Best home thermostats & accessories according to redditors

It depends if you want to control everything from one place or don;t mind using a separate app for each thing. IF you want an all-in-one solution, the best bet is a Vera pro or VeraLite from MiCasaVerde. You don't have to re-invent the wheel as most of your wants will work right out of the box. What it doesn't natively do, it is almost guaranteed that someone has already done the modification and you can just grab their code.

For the lock I would go with a Yale or Schlage. Even Kwikset has zigbee and z-wave models. Honeywell makes a nice thermostat for cheap. There are several ways to integrate your doorbell as well.

Otherwise, Nest is great, Dropcam is awesome, There are a whole host of cool single-focus products out there.

I always enjoy seeing photos of various mercury switches from "back in the day". If scientists had known how bad mercury is back in the 50s and 60s, things would have been different.

I bought a house last year that was built in '75, and the thermostat was an old White Rogers model complete with a mercury switch.

I replaced it with a Honeywell WiFi thermostat (loving it) and used the mercury switch to make a sensor to alert me when my mailbox door gets opened. I accomplished this with an Amazon dash button, which I opened and soldered the switch contacts to, so the mercury would close the circuit when the mailbox door was opened. The Dash button connects to my WiFi and notifies me when I've got mail, via a text and sound alert on my phone. There's an Instructables tutorial that shows how.

Don't use a thermistor. Use a LM35 or other Si-based sensor that outputs a voltage.

I wouldn't bother with "dimming" the heater either. Just compare the output of the LM35 to a fixed voltage from the switch to toggle the heater on or off.

Or you could just buy one...

Does it have to be 10 above ambient? If you set it to 80F would that be ok? (Pretty sure the average basement in the US is between 50 and 70F.

The cheapest option in that case is a simple thermostat and a fuse.

Something like this.

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Hook up the heater instead of the fan, once the safe reaches the set temperature, it'll power off.

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PLC is overthinking it. Use that for your holiday light show.

You don't need to pay up for an ecobee if this is all you want. Just look for a thermostat with an "auto" mode. It looks like this one may do what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6450D1009-5-1-1-Day-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B003VIWQL4/ref=lp_495354_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486797210&sr=1-13.

It won't factor in the outside temperature, just the inside temp, but it sounds like all you really care about is auto switching from heat to cool.

Honeywell is my go-to brand for thermostats.

I know you said non wifi, but personally, I think the slightly higher cost for the wifi version is justifiable. It gives you the option to adjust the temperature down before you come home, adjust if you're out and realize you didnt' change it, and monitor house temps while you're out of town. Not to mention the added ease of programming from your computer versus using the buttons on the unit.

The Honeywell Lyric line of WiFi thermostats allows for multiple control from one app, not certain on copy/paste of settings though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2KZSF

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH6320WF2003-Lyric-Thermostat-Conventional/dp/B01MUKUMEX

Remotec ZTS-500? Supports secure zwave. Works with Vera. Don't see why it wouldn't work with HomeSeer.

These are wireless temperature sensors. From amazon: “This Honeywell Indoor Sensor is to be used with ComfortNet Thermostats to dispense temperature and humidity information to the thermostat.” source

I would get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Thermostat-Hycency-Temperature-Controller/dp/B07SBN2N69/ref=asc_df_B07SBN2N69/

Mount it inside one of these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/frigidaire-20-2-cu-ft-frost-free-upright-freezer-white-energy-star/50273097?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-app-_-google-_-lia-_-118-_-freezers-_-50273097-_-0&kpid&store_code=2365&gclsrc=aw.ds&&k_clickID=go_1792806856_70815140298_346784426130_aud-299487635170:pla-382980496942_m_9011698&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1MXpBRDjARIsAHtdN-3cmFSDzNcZEhh27nOpikbuCqGMmONa4W3F1LnsQ4ZINlMCDc_Jgd4aAvv8EALw_wcB

You'd have to drill one small hole in the side so you can get power to the thermostat and run the freezer cord in to plug into the thermostat. Set the thermostat to your desired temp and it'll power the freezer on and off as needed. You might even be able to to just pinch the cords in the door gasket and not even have to drill a hole. As far as I can tell, no one has done this before. At least not since the last time I googled.

edit: I found this:. https://youtu.be/4GWbxagW-Sk

For what it's worth, I also have a Honeywell. I've not had any connectivity issues.

You made the mistake of calling a HVAC guy to install a nest, most dont like them (something new and different?)

Call a Nest Pro, and even better if you call a Nest Pro who is also a HVAC tech.

You can find them here: https://nest.com/nest-pro-installation/


If you dont have a "C" wire all you need to do is one of the following:

Not having a "C" wire is a small problem that is easily overcome.

It is recommended especially with Air Conditioning to have a "C" wire.

The "C" wire let's the Nest have the full 24v avalible to power itself and keep its battery charged 24/7 instead of only when the HVAC equipment is off.

What wires are at your current thermostat?

Do you have any extra wires in the thermostat cable at your thermostat?.....if so....watch this instructional video---> https://youtu.be/kJEEPRkP8Ps


Do you never run your fan all by itself, and only with heat or A/C on?......is so watch these instructional videos--->1)https://youtu.be/RQQAtmV2TQs 2) https://youtu.be/R039DH7HASg 3)https://youtu.be/BftoUCnKYls


If you want to run your fan by itself and dont have an extra wire then buy a Venstar Add-A-Wire: Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tKSODbK81RECX it will give yo ut an extra wire that can be used as a "C" wire And watch this instructional video--->https://youtu.be/FjkPh1_I40A

&

If you only have 2 wires then you need to use this: Venstar ACC0436 2-Wire Kit for all 24VAC Thermostats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E..ODbD0SEGTY if you dont want to run a 3rd wire.

If you have issues with the equipment cycling as soon as you connect a nest,you can install a 220-ohm 5w resistor between "C"&"Y"(if you have A/C) or "C"&"W"(if you have heat only) that will let power bypass the sensitive controller and stop the cycling immediately when nest is attatched.

Or, you know, he could get a 110V thermostat.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Wi-Fi-Programmable-Touchscreen-Thermostat/dp/B00EP6C8UA

He's talking about these: Nest Sensor Thermostat (Original Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGWXCNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_INkYCb0A7NMHG

The EcoBee thermostats come with a few right in the box though

https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0436-2-Wire-24VAC-Thermostats/dp/B00755BZZC

http://www.hvacproblemsolver.com/floor-wall-furnace.asp

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

Lots of good expensive options. Here's the budget option. You're welcome.

Wireless Temperature Controller

In all my 15 years owning current home, I have never ran across anyone who has Ceil Heat! I have it in every room in my house. 1 220v area for the main room and 110s in all the smaller rooms.

All my 110s work fine; however, my 220v no longer works and is not safe (technically). Totally my fault too. I was trying to install a ceiling fan and thought i had a spot for the box where I would miss the elements but alas I was off and cut one element wore totally and nicked another one. It is not safe because the elements could arc if close enough and cause a fire, at least that is what o have read and it makes sense.

Here are my 3 suggestions.

1.) Get an IR thermometer with a laser point. Take a measurement in different parts of the ceiling and make a note of it. Turn the ceiling heat on all the way up, then wait. Repeat the temp test at 30 and 1 hour in the same spots. This will tell you if it is working at all.

2.) You can use a Honeywell thermostat used for baseboard heating and replace the existing one to ensure it's not the thermostat for sure. This one is the one I used : Honeywell Manual 4 Wire Premium Baseboard/Line Volt Thermostat(YCT410B1000/U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TKFQF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yjo4CbTG2WADR

(I actually have a couple of the original Ceil Heat thermostats I found at a Habitat store awhile back that I might be willing to come off of if you like the Old School look.

3.) If your ceiling heat turns out to no longer be working, I'd suggest 2 options. Baseboard heating or, what I did, a mini-split system. Having ceiling heat replaced is going to be $$$ and a huge mess and that's only IF you can find someone that knows anything about it.

Good luck.

Yup, the CT100 is pretty ugly - this is about as good as it gets and it's no Nest asthetic:


Remotec ZTS-500 Z-Wave Plus Smart Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JY98VG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Idz5Cb9AERK68

Assuming the heater has a mechanical switch (so you can toggle it by toggling the power), a thermostatically controlled outlet (just an example, there are lots on the market) is probably the easiest solution. You could rig up something fancier, but it'd probably cost a lot more and not work any better.

Nothing fancy, just replace the switch with a dial or other controller. My problem is that most units seem to have outlets like the one you linked, or they are too expensive for how simple I am trying to go.

Searching terms like "Air condition home switch" or "thermostat switch" gives me the things like what you linked. I guess what I should be asking is; can I use something like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EANORW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_xNXGzb7JRRPGH)

Why are you going with the Lenovo instead of the GH Hub? Are you wanting the camera feature? Third party devices aren't kept up to date as well as original devices but if you want the camera featue, the GH Hub isn't for you.

Google Mini, not Dot. Dot is Alexa :)

I have had 110% flawless, drama free operations with my TP-Link smart lights and TP-Link smart outlets. They require NO hub. They set up in seconds and work. YMMV but they don't just work "most of the time" or "pretty good" and I'm not "for the most part" happy. They work ALL of the time, perfectly and I'm extremely satisfied with their products.

I don't have a Nest thermostat. My goal wasn't to buy the "it" product of the moment and I wanted all my info on the screen without having to dial it in. I have this one and it has been almost flawless. The Honeywell servers have been down a couple of times in the year I've had it. But, as with other smart thermostats, you can still operate them manually if the service goes down temporarily.

Honeywell TH9320WF5003 WiFi 9000 Color Touchscreen Thermostat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G4CIG7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't offer any advice on the TV except to say I've read that Google's Chromecast is a better product than Roku. Have no idea tho.

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This one is wireless and can be used with a variety of thermostats. What happens is the thermostat uses the reading off the wireless sensor instead of it's internal thermometer. That's just the first one I came across and it is Honeywell which is a common brand, but if you keep looking, you can see if you can find one that works with your thermostat, or you can pick up a new thermostat that works with this sensor. It's probably easier than running new wire.

Hey!

I got a great thermostat from amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002SQAP1S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539038150&sr=8-3&keywords=thermostat+reptile&dpPl=1&dpID=41e-FX6RbmL&ref=plSrch

I stay in the UK so i think this one will work for you as well😁

FYI

I've got one of these pieces of Chinese mystery manufacturing.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Temperature-Controller-Electric-Thermostat/dp/B07DFBXQGZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermostatic+wireless+receptacle&qid=1569066213&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Put a big cheap box fan in a window blowing out, plugged into this, put the thermostat next to your bed (must have bed AND open windows) set it and it will hold that temperature like a champ. Best thing to come out of China since fireworks.

Or maybe I'm way overthinking this. This should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFBXQGZ/

The iDevices thermostat is $65:https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-IDEV005AND5-Wi-Fi-Smart-Thermostat/dp/B019GQM6LY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=AMTZCU9X6PGX&keywords=idevices+thermostat&qid=1574176228&sprefix=idevices+%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-4

You can check if you turn off the temp settings

Thanks! Do you know of this 5-1-1 would work or would this 7 day be the least expensive model?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VIWQL4/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00Y6M2OUC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00FLZEQH2

There is no product that will keep the house to a very small temp range. There needs to be a buffer range between hot and cool modes to prevent alternating calls for heat and air conditioning.

I don't know why you'd want to keep a constant temp though. The point of a programmable is to have the temp change when you're not home or when you're sleeping. For most people these days patterns are pretty predictable. But if you have your heart set on it, this Honeywell looks pretty close.

The taxes will probably drown you out of the iDevices Thermostat with a base price of 108 euro...

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Thermostat-Enabled-HomeKit-Amazon/dp/B019GQM6LY

This one here?

Honeywell RLV4305A1000/E1 Rlv4305A1000/E 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat, 240 V, 1 Deg F, Whites https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DF626K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QXGTDb46Z62V1

very close. almost got that one but scooped up a cheaper one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GGPMO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good news is you have the wiring in place for pretty much and standard wifi thermostat. bad news is the new thermostat you have isn't "standard".

Sounds like you want the remote wifi capability since its for a rental (and the "smart" won;t come into play as much since there will be less of a set pattern?)? I might suggest this thermostate. Cheaper than the brand name "smart" thermostats, but still has all the programming and wifi capabilities. Would work with your wiring also.

I think the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat would work. The thermostat is locked by default I think.

Also, since the thermostat has a temperature sensor in it, you can either program the Vera to switch it off if the Nest is on, or just allow it to come on if the temperature is too low like a normal thermostat.

the model I use for my steam system (which supports a multitude of common wiring types) is the Honeywell YTH8320ZW1007/U.

Available here for $135

Habistat Mat Stat Thermostat + Whatever heater you want.

Keeps them nice and happy. I have a heat-mat for my hedgehog (was the only thing the petstore had) and I keep it 1/3 under his house and 2/3 outside. It keeps the air nice and warm for him, and gives him a warm and cool spot to pick in his house. He hasn't once tried hibernating since I got it.

I am interested in getting a better ceramic heater emitter, so if anyone has any good recommendations I'm interested as well.

This deadbolt lock was a huge help when you have your hands full or you want to go out w/o your keys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AGK9L4U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I added these lights at the top and bottom of my stairs because my cat would lay across and i have a toddler: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLIXJLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These thermostats work really really well and are half the price of a nest. I love being able to adjust the temp remotely w/ my phone even if i'm just being lazy on the couch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DS2KZSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On my master bathroom i added this LED toilet seat so i can see when i get up in the middle of the night w/o having to turn on the full light and cause night blindness again to try and get back to bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OIH2TY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the last one was an amazon dot w/ smart plug connected to the TV so i could turn it off after my kid wanders off or my hands are full when leaving the house i can just call out to alexa to "turn off tv".

Yes, however you’ll have to run wire big enough to run both heaters to the thermostat. Then you can run two sets of smaller wire from the Tstat over to each heater. If easy heater had a draw of 12 amps you’d need a supply wire to the Tstat to handle 24 amps for example. Then you’d need #10 wire. This is the Tstat I used for mine. You just land line side and load side and you’re good to go. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TKFQF0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3W3RJ7SN373PTY9SV8KP

Heater I linked earlier has a built in Tstat I think.

The thermostat in question is this guy:

http://amzn.com/B008DF626K

I'm not sure what a C wire is, but I'm going to guess no since it only has 2 wires for line voltage. The thermostat I'm trying to replace is similar to this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hha1OhAlsSA/hqdefault.jpg

It's just one of those dumb knobs, but 4 wires.

These are UK links (don't know where you are):

Dehumidifier bag: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/2pk-Small-Space-Dehumidifier-sachets/dp/B00A3U9KQW/

Thermostat: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Habistat-Stat-Thermostat-100W-White/dp/B002SQAP1S/

The thermostat you need depends on your heat mat size but that one is 100w which should be plenty.

Make sure the heatmat is stuck down. Electrical tape is good as it's safe both for heat and for your gecko.

You should be compatible with this Sensi Thermostat with no c-wire (but not the touchscreen model). It runs on AA batteries, so no c-wire is required.. unless it's a heat or cool only system, but it doesn't look like it is.

I have two options for you!

1. The Ecobee smart thermostat has remote thermometers. You can program what time of day it pays attention to which sensor. Easy peasy, for a few hundred dollars.
   
   
2. For a cheaper and more DIY approach, you could wire a Sonoff smart switch in line with your existing thermostat, connect it to a home automation setup with a smart sensor, and program it to override the thermostat when the upstairs gets too cool. Slightly more difficult, but also about $210 cheaper...
   
   Edit: I also hear good things about the Honeywell Redlink stuff, which seems more geared to the professional/commercial HVAC area than the more consumer-oriented Ecobee and other smarthome thermostats if that's of interest to you.

By the red wire I see R5, by the yellow, Y6 and by the white it just had 4. I tried a honeywell programmable, but it said the yellow wire was cooling , which didn't make sense because I don't have cooling.

So I can just buy one of these and be done with it?

One of these?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Habistat-Stat-Thermostat-100W-White/dp/B002SQAP1S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467220020&sr=8-1&keywords=Habistat

There are less expensive HomeKit thermostats.

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For example, the Emerson Sensi Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat

Or the iDevices IDEV005AND5 Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat

We have Electric Baseboard heat and it works very well with a good digital thermostat like this one, you can find it on eBay for cheaper:

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Honeywell RLV4305A1000/E 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat for Electric Baseboard Heaters

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https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RLV4305A1000-Programmable-Thermostat-Baseboard/dp/B008DF626K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537890358&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+rlv430&dpID=41FGJhIQGWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I actually want the switch to keep power all the time (for WiFi access) and that is what had kept me stumped. I found an awesome presentation on gas fireplace valves and millivolt circuits that really opened my mind up to what is going on.

With that said, I just ordered an old round style thermostat from amazon that I plan to hook into the millivolt circuit.

I really appreciate the tips here, lead me to find the info I needed. Once it is all setup I will post pictures!

Thermostat

I have hydronic baseboards fed by an oil fired boiler. I use this thermostate: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6450D1009-E1-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B003VIWQL4/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539974065&sr=1-13&keywords=honeywell+thermostat

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Though, hydronic systems actually have two thermostats, and I think that might be where you are confused. There is a thermostat at the boiler itself that controls the temp of the water in the boiler. Then there is the thermostat in the home that senses the ambient temp and calls for heat when the temp drops below a designated temp. You want to replace the second, the first one is likely doing just what you need it to do right now.

My Dometic thermostat will increase temperature on its own like someone is pressing a button.

Thinking of getting something like this

I was looking at transformers. This one particularly: 24 Volt Transformer, C Wire Adapter Thermostats, Compatible with Ecobee

Until I came across a customer review with this picture and caption: This destroyed my Honeywell Lyric Thermostat

Would you be willing to share pictures of your ecobee setup with your transformers?

May not be a standard 24vac controlled furnace so need to verify what you have - may not be a C connection handy. Depending on the furnace you could also add a simple relay or fan control center there.

One simple solution can be to add a transformer near the thermostat.

Cross-check where the wires come into your furnace/AC. If you're lucky, the wiring schematic will be by (or even in) your furnace.

Also, I would recommend http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH8580WF-Programmable-Touchscreen-Thermostats/dp/B00EP6C8UA/ref=lp_495354_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415041551&sr=1-13

instead of the one you're looking at, especially for a heat-only system, unless
>Simple set-up with one touch weather and smart alerts

is a priority for you. I have the thermostat linked above - I have control over my system away from home, and saved $50.

oh hey, i know a lot about this because i just did it. I had suspected that all i needed was a solid state relay to isolate the 24V of the thermostat from the millivolt 750Ohm two wire system but i wanted someone to blame if i fried it. I bought this dingus https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0436-2-Wire-24VAC-Thermostats/dp/B00755BZZC and hooked it up to a standard honeywell wifi thermostat that i got for $4 with a utility company rebate and it worked like a charm. Turns out I was right, i cut the hear shrink on this think off and all it was was a PCB with a cheap mechanical relay and a triac.

I would try to find a high voltage thermostat, if you want to control each one individually.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Premium-Baseboard-Thermostat-YCT410B1000/dp/B000TKFQF0

Like you, I am trying to avoid cloud-based services at all cost. I want my house to continue to function even if the internet connection goes down for some reason.

I've also got central Heat/AC with a Gas furnace and I just picked up Honeywell's Zwave Thermostat. Its quite nice although does have some quirks when integrated with Home-Assistant. I don't know how it compares with other zwave thermostats but I'm happy with it. Scheduling can be done through home-assistant or at the thermostat directly. Currently, I'm using the built in scheduling on the thermostat but it seems like a schedule through home-assistant is the way to go due to one of the aforementioned quirks.

I haven't set up any remote sensors temperature, but it should be fairly straightforward to have Home-Assistant control the thermostat based on the temperature of individual rooms or on an average among all sensors.

I also found NMap presence detection to be spotty. Recently I configured Owntracks with private MQTT and haven't looked back. Its light-years ahead of the NMap detection.

I personally am not concerned with the multi-sensors as I am not very interested in temperature. I do use motion sensors heavily to trigger events in Home-Assistant. If you wanted both, i'd go with the multi-sensors.

God damn that looks sleek, in the mean time I Macgyvered this... thing... to a wall plug because I didn't feel like changing batteries every few months:

https://imgur.com/a/qYB7yQb


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SBN2N69/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_XnFLDbJ09Y8X3

When it's time to do a refresh of equipment I'll definitely take a look at AC Infinity

Buy this transformer. I've used it for two Simplisafe doorbell cameras, works great.

24 Volt Transformer, C Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT5VWQN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I believe it may be OEM'd by Honeywell. Looks kinda similar:

Honeywell TH9320WF5003 WiFi 9000 Color Touchscreen Thermostat, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4CIG7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DbaOAbZC429FG

Running new wires isn't an option right now (old house; giant project for something that's more of a luxury than a necessity for us). But could I use this Venstar transformer so that my ecobee isn't trying to pull power through the furnace wiring? https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0436-2-Wire-24VAC-Thermostats/dp/B00755BZZC

I was actually trying to install a bunch of these which claim to support both: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DF626K/. In general, thermostats for baseboard heaters seem terrible. But regardless, I didn't actually attempt to wire it up, I merely put back the existing thermostat after seeing it only had 2 wires to connect. It seems these thermostats support both single and double pole by making you combine wires.