(Part 2) Best jump starters & battery chargers according to redditors

Get a PO Box immediately so youhave a place for your mail to go. Don't check "commercial or business use" or the post office will be obligated to give out your contact info for anyone who asks. They are about $30 for six months.

Buy a little urinal jug for $5 or pack of disposable ones for $12.

(You have to pee when in a car a lot more than your tire goes flat so why do you have a spare tire and no pee jug in your trunk?)

Here is one with a female adapter for $5. everyone should have one of these in their car trunk anyway.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M3DCHI?ie=UTF8&tag=reddit0e-20

here are some disposable cardboard paper ones 6 for $12 if you want something smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NV878S?ie=UTF8&tag=reddit0e-20

You don't want to exit a car at night to walk the woods or city streets to find privacy. Aircraft supply stores came up with these women's pee jugs which are used in small airplanes flying for several hours when no one wants to land just to pee.

Other practical things from a friend of mine who has camped across the country:

If you have a car to sleep in find the neighborhoods with lots of apartments becuase they usually have a lot of apartment dwellers who park overnight on the streets so your car won't get hassled.

IF you live near a swimming pool park, beach or lake a lot of them have open showers.

If you have a sportsclub membership you can usually shower and change clothes there (might be worth the monthly purchase for national shower privileges alone.) If you go to a 24 hr one in work out sweats no one will think anything of it if you "accidentally fall asleep" on a floor mat "doing your exercises".

Buy a small wind up or battery powered alarm clock.
A plastic jar of peanut butter, a half gallon jug of spring water, a multivitamin and aspirin bottle, cold cans of chicken based Progresso soups with rice or veggies (which taste like high end gazpacho cold) and a spoon or fork and a can opener a wash cloth, deodorant, hairspray, toilet paper are wonderful things to have in a car at all times whether or not you are homeless/camping whatever.

A wool blanket is a wonderful thing for warmth and window privacy. A Sunday newspaper and tape makes great car window privacy (but also alerts police you might be sleeping in your car which is illegal some places.) An alternative is some of those sun reflectors for car windows which you can get at the 99cents store. Lots of people leave those on windows when they aren't sleeping in a car.

Even an out of service (with canceled monthly bill etc) cell phone can be used for emergency 911 calls if you keep it charged.

Get a thing that plugs into your cigarettes lighter that lets you pull in regular electrical plug devices to do things like run your cell phone and small laptop.here's one for $25

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000157TNA?ie=UTF8&tag=reddit0e-20

WARNING they CANNOT BE USED WITH HAIRDRYERS or HEATING THINGS becuase those use to much electricity.

for that you need a heavy duty one 1500 watt one which will be a few hundred like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00126IDDC?ie=UTF8&tag=reddit0e-20

no 2000 watt hairdryers if it's 1500 watts! (you should really not use a hairdryer in your car)

Even the smaller ones for cell phones and laptops will run down your car battery within an hour if the car isn't running and the larger one may even run it down when the car IS running becuase they pull so much electric juice.

If you are ever sleeping in your car, the easiest way to stay warm is to get a 2 liter soda bottle and empty it and fill it to the top (no air) with the hottest tap water you can find from a public sink, screw the plastic lid back on tight, and then put that bottle in a blanket or sleeping bag with you. You will stay very warm all night. You probably will need to wrap the hot water bottle in a pants leg or blanket becuase it will be hot on your skin otherwise. Don't leave air in there or it will expand and pressurize the bottle as soon as the hot water gets shaken. got o an aquarium store and buy two clear hoses like in aquariums.
One small diameter and one larger.

The small one can fill jugs from sinks etc when you can't get the jug under the sink faucet.
The large one can be used to route fluids outside your car without opening the door or to help fill radiators etc.

Get a $5 led flashlight and bunches of batteries for 99 cents

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LIQQ7M?ie=UTF8&tag=reddit0e-20

Those are all good things to have in your car anyway.

I drilled a hole in the roof and ran them through there. Didn't consider for very long if I could feed them through the door or not. DIidn't immediately look like it, so through the roof it was!

I haven't anchored the batteries yet. This is a little bit halfway done honestly. I did the solar and the vent at the same time, and that took all day, so the mess of wires isn't permanent it was just a quick "Let's see that everything works mess" haha. I need to build the bed frame, for that what I'm gonna do is start at the rear of the wheel well and go forward, and then put a couple of boards up vertically so that the very back will be a space for our bikes, and probably have a board going horizontally over my tools and the battery shit.

The tan box is actually silver but appeared tan in the picture for some reason. It's a 1000W inverter with 2000w peak load. It's just a china brand since I'm broke.

As for price I'll add most of the stuff up here, but I might forget some small stuff I got from home depot or such.

Column A | Column B
---------|----------
Sikaflex | $13
Inverter | $160
Charge Controller | $20
Wires | $22
VHB Tape | $30
100W Solar | $170
2 Batteries | $200 + $18ea core
total | $651

I didn't really have any tools so I spent like $200 at homedepot/lowes on shit too. Including some wire, wire cutters, jig saw, zip ties, caulk gun, etc.

Ok!

So it's a late 2018 (December) Ender 3 Pro. I got it from Mech Solutions. They have been super helpful with some warranty stuff. (Magnetic bed delaminated and heat break/throat tube was broken.) https://www.mechestore.com/collections/ender-3-pro

Galactic Empire gears here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3422334 (I remixed this one!)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3005278

The braided cable stuff is from Amazon, here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071WF5NTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought three sizes, 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4". I hated the Pi camera cable, luckily it fits perfectly in the 1/2" stuff. I found uses for all three sizes in different locations. The 1/4" looks cool on the bowden tube. I used heat shrink (or electrical tape) at the ends.

Hotend cooler is Hero Me with a velocity stack (stack purely for my own entertainment)
Hero Me: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917 - I used the stock 4010 blower version in the end. I was going to do the dual 5015 mod but the two Amazon fans I got were both defective.
Fan is a Noctua 4020 - from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071W93333/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note - I added a 12v system running in parallel with the OEM 24v Ender system - more below
Velocity stack:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2211780

Someone spotted it, on the left I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ running OctoPi (Octoprint):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BD3WHCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a 3.5" touchscreen TFT LCD:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07KLDKM5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a Pi compatible camera:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0759GYR51/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with longer cables:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DNYM8KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The camera needed a mount:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101
and an off-brand sleeve:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994762

The Pi needed a mount too, and I found one I love that just happened to fit the screen I bought:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2530258
** user note - this thing is massive, and tricky to print. Worth it, though.

OH. THIS IS A MUST:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2943218 xD

All metal extruder, conveniently in red, from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JVJWC5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note: if nothing else, do this upgrade. This, and the one just above it. Mine was under extruding, and I poured hours into trying to calibrate/test/bla bla bla... it ended up being a broken heat break and crappy plastic extruder.

Filament guide (top rail)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003807
At extruder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303562

Z-Axis bar cable management:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761965
** user note: this is one of my favorites!!!!! I covered it in LEDs, white for the bed, and red for the wall/bowden tube!

Ok, so, something that made getting good fans difficult is the Ender 3 uses 24v fans (except the power suppy, it uses a 12v fan. Bonus.)
To get some 12v power, I used a buck converter to step 24v down to 12v from here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FQH4M82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and basically I run all the fun stuff off it.
JST and XT60 connectors are all from www.hobbyking.com. Same with 22AWG three wire servo wire, super handy. I already had this stuff kicking around, but hobbyking is good if you need this stuff.
The PSU has some open ports, I added another XT60 cable with 24v service. I made it the same as the OEM, and they are backwards compatible and nothing will fry. One of them goes to my buck converter, the other to the Ender main board.
** tech note: I used a 3.5A BEC from hobbyking to power the Pi, off the 12v side of the buck converter. I ended up cutting the power supply cable that came with the Pi (and added JST connectors to the whole thing so I could reuse it one day.) The BEC steps the voltage down to 5.1v from 12v. 3.5A has been plenty. I think it might use .8A with my giant RGB keyboard plugged into it.

This is super worth it, a must do. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8

Oh, the nice little platform the buck converter and Pi cooling fan is sitting on is this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539545

more below: (above?)

I think it might better for you to be flexitarian if you are homeless. I don't think many would blame you for the occasional non vegan meal in your situation. But but a portable stove, a rice cooker, and this

Ampeak 100W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Converter with 2.1A USB Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LM88F9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AZFrDbSGK2B66.

Make sure to have a lot of starches such as rice, bread, sweet potatoes etc. And legumes such as lentils and beans. Rice cooker is very helpful in this situation as you can cook a lot of different things in it

I bought a standard car adaptor (Ampeak 100W Car Power Inverter DC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LM88F9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf). Take a cooler and ice packs to put the milk in and either rinse your parts with water after each pump (and then pop those in the cooler too) or take a set of parts for however many times you’ll be pumping. Park towards the back of the parking lot and you should be in relative privacy.

You jest, but after spending 3 months without power the year before last, I wished I had a Powerwall and some panels... D:

I still intend to look into it. After Maria, I put a whole bunch of extra cycles into my USB power bank (and phone) with this... Useful in a pinch but tiresome every other day, and the smell of diesel when chilling outside the house was no fun. Still, I was far better off than many... Missed my desktop system tho!

Edit: And either I jinxed myself or the power co. is really into 4/1... It'd gone out yesterday for 15-20 min. but it went out this morning and hasn't come back, sigh... Hadn't had much issue this year.

https://www.pine64.org/?product=rock64-media-board-computer

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Supported-Silver/dp/B019HXSQ6K?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Protective/dp/B01FQH4M82/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Done.

• Solar Controller
  
• Converter Charger
  
• Inverter
  
• Battery
  
• Grand total so far is us$ 290. I havent included a box, wires as needed, 12v outlet, and fuses (the yeti says it isnt fused) all of which you could source for under $50.00. It would have more than 3 times the battery storage capacity and better charging specs.
  
  Edit: Link here to the Goal Zero Yeti AGM for comparison.

I know your question was about water, but I'd like to rebut that article in general. I'll make sure to focus on water for you though. (TL;DR: I see The_Prepared is already here, and the article you already found is my suggestion.)

Here, I shall make some useful alternate suggestions:

Article Title: Well, I see the lies have already begun. Hey, I know of an article with almost the same name that's actually useful!

• Pedal power fail socket: Dumb. For that price, buy a solar panel, a decent charge controller, and a battery. Find a nerd if you aren't one, hook them up (safely, standard internet advice disclaimer here), and you get power without needing to pedal, and also storage. If you want to charge your phone, use a 12v adapter, and if you need 120v power for something, you can get an inverter. It's pretty easy to hook it all up, there are a lot of resources, search for "DIY solar generator". Here's one I made for a good friend. This will be about a hundred times as useful to you, at only a slightly higher price.
  
  
• Crappy GMRS radios: You can tell this article is BS because they actually think the "23 mile range" claim has some kind of validity. Emergency comms for preppers generally means a Ham radio license, those walkie talkies are only marginally better than toys. All the same, they're cheap, and can't hurt. I have a pair.
  
  
• Cell phone: It amuses me that the article states "we have a strong suspicion", thus confirming they did no actual journalism or research . In the event of a disaster, 2G will be exactly as non existent as it is now. They also chose the Nokia because of a meme! What's their next memetic indestructible suggestion? A Wiimote? Gamecube? At least you could bludgeon an intruder to death with a Gamecube. My suggestion: Use your regular phone, because it works with the existing infrastructure. Text messages tend to work better in disasters, because high call volume stresses the network, and texts are a tiny amount of data. Also, stay off the phone unless you really need to use it, because someone else might be in a life threatening situation and need to call for help.
  
  
• Ultimate survival kit: I disagree with premade survival kits because they use low quality items, most of them won't actually be useful, and if you build your own, you have more familiarity with the equipment and usage. If you want a pre made kit, look at the contents, buy it in pieces, and test every piece before you put it in your kit. At least then you'll know how it all works, and be familiar with exactly whats in there.
  
  
• Glowy keychain thing: I mean, i like glowy things, but the only real use for this is if you want to take a photo and post it on /r/EDC and then get flak from them because it's not even tritium, which incidentally doesn't need charging and would work far better for the purpose the article suggests anyway.
  
  
• Waterbricks: No argument here, but The Prepared has a really awesome article about this and I'm not going to type words that they have already covered in great detail. (I see they've already found this thread, anyway.)
  
  
• Condoms: Pretty fair point there. They expire, so rotate them like any other perishable prep item. I'd say probably stock conventional ones because no one wants a hurricane baby, and some unlubricated ones for assorted other purposes, but don't plan on using them for stuff. If you need something waterproof, do not think "I'll just put a condom on it when I need to!". If you can think of it in advance, figure out a proper solution, and leave the condoms for in a pinch fixes you didn't anticipate.
  
  
• Hand crank radio: Sure I guess? I'd rather have a radio that uses rechargeable batteries, and then use the solar rig from my first bullet point to charge the batteries. Anything with a hand crank will put out a really tiny amount of power and requires you to effort. Once you stop cranking, you're running off of the way-too-tiny battery in the unit, whereas solar is a huge amount of power that requires no effort, which you can then use to charge lots of batteries and then just swap them. Or run the radio off of a 12v adapter directly. For the radio itself, You want AM/FM/NOAA Weather Radio at a minimum, and an argument could be made for shortwave, because it can cover huge distances (I'm in central Alberta, Canada, and can easily pick up Radio Havana Cuba on shortwave). Again, a Ham license and some equipment of that sort would also be useful if you want to get into that.
  
  
• MRE's: Sure, though ask a soldier friend what they think of them, and what they do to your guts. I'm personally going to stick with Mountain House or similar. Also, there's an article from The Prepared on this topic, too. (Hey mods, just so you know I'm not paid or coerced in any way to suggest this site. I gain nothing from them, it's just the best information I've found, and it's convenient to link them instead of type a whole lot.)
  
  
• As seen on TV "Tactical" Flashlight: No! Ask nicely in /r/flashlight, or pick something that meets your needs from Here. Thrunite tends to be inexpensive, high quality, nice features, and nice light, if you're looking for a brand suggestion. Fenix and Nitecore are also solid choices.
  
  
• 1911: Limiting this one because too much politics and heated debate. I love 1911s, but .45 is a bit big for an infrequent shooter, but a 9mm clone like an STI Spartan, or perhaps a Jericho (Baby Eagle) in 9mm, or a CZ, would work nicely.
  
  
• Casper Mattress: Wait, that's an ad, never mind. I couldn't really tell the difference.

Why are you opposed to a boost converter? You could do this with one chip so easily. I’m sure there’s also prefabricated modules for this so you don’t need to mess with the supporting circuitry.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GY2DC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6kZbBb08N87VC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9ZVXTR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_klZbBb27CTGGZ

Thanks for the info. So the $169 EVExtend kit is only a wiring kit and requires in inverter to be connected to it, correct? It looks like a very clean solution, but for $140 you can buy a 1500W inverter with wiring kit off Amazon. Are there other features to the EVExtend or other things I should consider?

They sell pure sine wave inverters.
Like GoWISE Power PS1001 Pure SINE Wave Inverter 600W https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0131GJ5X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6wB6CbY03339E

I think 600 watts should be enough for a single amp and pedals.

https://www.amazon.com/Constant-Temperature-Electric-Heating-Incubator/dp/B07F3S2G9Q/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1541204934&sr=8-19&keywords=24v+heater

get the 24v version

if the fan moves too slow add this to the fan to up the 16v to 24v to get the fan to speed up and dissipate the heat better

https://www.amazon.com/MT3608-Voltage-Regulator-Step-Up/dp/B01N9ZVXTR/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541205219&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+step+up

This should do the trick. It's borderline so if the money isn't as much an issue I'd go for the 1000W model just to be on the safe side. Best of luck.

Tesla Model 3 roof rack: https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product/vehicle-accessories/model-3-roof-rack.html

It may seem unnecessary to mention this since it's in the Tesla store and it seems like there is a post every time it goes back on sale but I can't count how many times I've been asked by Tesla owners where I got it from and who makes it.

​

Tesla Model 3 console organizer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P6DMBWB

The center console is a big deep storage area. It's like a toy box, nothing you put in it has its own place. There isn't a good solution for keys, garage cards, coins, sunglasses without this. I like this one better than the Basenor since it is covered in the same felt material that the rest of the console interior has. It feels like an OEM part.

​

200W power inverter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HPZ9JY

Charge and run your 110V AC things! Nice to have for road trips.

​

Lanyard and badge holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HLFZWBD

I put the key card in the badge holder and put it around my neck and under my wet suit. Highly recommended solution for all surfers!

Dryers are 240. Many a/c systems are also 240. You may have other 240 outlets near your garage. Here is one for $220 or so: https://amzn.to/2IewHsz. With this one, you can change the plug and use the same one for 110 and 240 charging! Get one with multiple tips and you can keep it in the car for flexible charging everywhere. If you do this, sell the charger that came with your car on eBay. Don't need it.

Also, get at least a 1000 watt inverter like this one https://amzn.to/2rFVPNB. With this your car becomes your backup power. A fridge uses 75 watts or so an hour. Your car most likely stores 24,000 watt hours or running that fridge for 320 hours. Plus it makes for an awesome camping source of electricity.

I am amazed no one really mentions these two items as core to EV ownership that actually adds a ton of value.

I once sold an EVSE charger that came with my car for less than it cost for one that had dual charging and came with three different 240V AC plugs! Crazy to think people hire electricians to have a Level 2 charger installed for over a grand.

I bought this battery pack from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YR00MI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wanted something that could be used for other purposes than just the CPAP. Will last 2-3 nights as long as I remove the humidifier. I had a week long trip so I also got this solar panel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F05VDVU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put the panels on top of the van during the day and they trickle charged the battery back up enough each day that I never got below 50% on the battery.

The least expensive useful solar power generator is probably this [$228.99 128 wH Monerator Gusto 10 Eco Kit with a 10W solar panel ] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUMZV6Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HUMZV6Y&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

You can plug it in and recharge it before you take it out into the field.

The batteries are li-ion, so it's not a huge lead acid brick.

I have a couple of lead acid power packs ([this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EIAADG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004EIAADG&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RHQQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00005RHQQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)), but they are so heavy I don't take them anywhere.

It would be a challenge to build anything less expensive than this.

Hope this is helpful and best of the holidays!

I did just that. I added a 1k MicroSolar Inverter (here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4TP3AE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

I added this directly to the battery, ran the remote to my door light switch area, and then added an outlet and romex. Using the romex, I wired it directly to a relay ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S5Y158/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) to prevent backfeeding of the circuit breaker panel. Then I wired that to the 120 outlets inside the camper [No 13.5k AC Unit power, just everything else in the unit]. When the shore/generator power is on, EVEN if my inverter is on, it'll prioritize shore/generator power over the inverter. When the shore/generator power turns off, it'll now draw from the inverter and the batteries. I put a cheap APC battery backup on my DVR to avoid having to relocate signals. Everything else in the camper is unaffected.

I run a 25 foot Lance Truck Camper. It has 2 solar panels for an unknown amount of power (installed before me). I have two deep cycle interstate batteries. A 2500 watt LP Onan Generator on board & 2k Honda EU2000i that I put on the ground. I don't have much room for anything else. At night, using TVs, DVR, charging devices, lights, etc, I can go more than 12-14 hours before I run out of juice. If I have sun light in the morning, I'm fine. If I don't, I start the generator. If the batteries are too dead, I start the truck, which powers the charge controller, allowing me to start the generator.

I would just grab a power inverter for the car (that's what I did). That way when I want to use my laptop as a passenger I just hook up and get 100% of the charger power from the Apple charger. Not as small and elegant as a USB PD option, but none were reasonable and able to power the MBP fully.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DW1PSRH/

if you are looking for simple off grid power solution for small electronics I would suggest the combination of The Duracell Powerpack and the Instapark Mercury 27 which comes with everything needed to recharge the powerpack via solar panel, including charge controller. I don't know that it would be enough to power a fridge but for basic electronics it's more than enough. also having the jump starter and air compressor on the power pack and great too.

I got a Nutri Ninja 1000w blender with the 48oz pitcher accessory so I can make big frozen smoothies. It was the least power with still a capacity of at least 40oz.

I use it with a 1500w/3000 peak inverter that only cost me $150. It’s modified sine wave. I tried to ask the Nutri Ninja company first if it required a pure sine wave but the tech support lady has no idea what I was talking about. It seems to work fine but I did notice a slight hum when the blender is plugged in with the inverter running. I do turn the inverter off and store the blender after use. The blender was $70 new so honestly not that worried as long as it lasts a while and doesn’t catch fire or something.

KRIËGER KR1500 1500 Watt 12V Dual Power Inverter with Installation kit. MET approved to UL and CSA standards. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNL05GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z55QAbW8DX5E9

The read out on the inverter shows the blender pulling about 350w continuous.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714B231X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rdZOAbEPPQH80 ?

Wow that's something I never would have come to on my own. Thanks so much for the great response!

So any recommendations on the inverter?
This seems to fit the bill? It mentions that AC connections need hard wire though - not sure what that means. I'm connecting it to the battery via the included battery clips right now - is this different?

https://www.amazon.com/Power-PWRIX120012S-Inverter-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00TI1D5JK

So, I've been doing some research on this topic to sort of plan out my options, take note that I have not used any of these products yet. There are a few different routes to go as far as cooking in a vehicle. Assuming you have no AC power inverter, you can run 12v appliances. Such as a lunch box cooker or a 12v slow cooker. The problem with this seems to be that these products are more expensive, and are prone to crap wiring and breaking(something to do with the circuits heating and cooling too often).

What seems to be a better option, is to install an AC inverter. You absolutely need to add the correct size fuse, as close to the battery as you can, on the power cable(and perhaps more fuses near outlets). This is to prevent fires, that could potentially kill you. Use the biggest gauge wire you can to power your inverter, this will let you pull the most amps. Bigger inverter = more crap running at once, or bigger appliances.

The most basic option would be to install 400 watt inverter and buy a $10 crock-pot from Walmart, or one of those simple rice cookers. If you install a 1000/1500 watt inverter, you should be able to run something like a 700 watt microwave. You really need to be careful, and do some research and check the power levels on everything. Many consumer products are advertised according to their power output, not input. A 900-watt microwave oven might actually use 1400 watts (on its highest setting). So plan accordingly. Something like this 1500 watt cobra inverter should be able to run a 700 watt microwave without incident.

I just bought, and installed an exhaust fan in the back of my pickup. It works great, and I'm stoked to have power in the back now. It wasn't very difficult to figure out.

I bought this, this, this, this, and this fan. It set me back about $350, but I went with a larger, more powerful solar panel. You'll need some 10 gage wire and crimp connections. Home depot has all those parts.

Here's what it looks like.

Hey so my setup is a bit cheaper than the one below, but same concept:

I have an inverter with alligator clips on it that has at least 300 watts (you can gather things you think you would use and add up the watts to see your needs):
https://www.amazon.com/POTEK-Inverter-Adapter-Charging-Smartphone/dp/B01FEUD9OO/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504464365&sr=1-9&refinements=p_72%3A1248861011


Then I have a marine deep cycle battery (I actually have two because I use them for other stuff also):
I can't find the exact one, but it is just Deep Cycle marine battery 12 volts and about 100 amp hours rated, they are about $75-100 at Costco or Walmart.

If you search for 24DC or the larger 27DC Marine battery you will find them.


Then of course you need a charger, I love this one, but there are others:
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BC15BD-Battery-Charger/dp/B00KNMKRU8/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KNMKRU8&pd_rd_r=KVPBC0ZVG9ZQGWAPD6HS&pd_rd_w=4Xk7X&pd_rd_wg=SRKI5&psc=1&refRID=KVPBC0ZVG9ZQGWAPD6HS


You just clamp on the inverter and you are all set, instant power supply :)


Edit: you could also get one of these and use your car charger with it, it might extend the life of the big deep cycle battery since you don't have to run the inverter

Here's my portable setup. You can get LED panels, just exactly like mine, that have an external power supply and most of those can be run off a 12 volt power pack.

You can also buy or make a porta-power system like this pretty inexpensively. A rig like that will run a couple LED panels for a long time. Longer than the band can stay focused anyway.

1. The output voltage depends on the transformer's primary:secondary ratio. They are unidirectional, so a transformer wound to supply 6V from a 120V source can be used to supply 120V from a 6V source.
   
   
2. The transformer design depends on your power requirements and voltages. The output has a centre tap to easily reverse the polarity through the windings (and thus create a basic AC input) without the use of an H-Bridge.
   
3. If you're looking to keep total costs down to under $15 per unit, something like this or this may be helpful.
   
   
   To answer your final question, it may prove safer, more efficient, and less expensive to use a commercially available inverter and inexpensive car battery to power all 20-30 bulbs from a common source.
   
   The linked inverter circuit is not terribly efficient, and the lower your input voltage, the more current drawn due to the conservation of energy. 3W at 6V means a 500mA draw from your cells, under ideal conditions. Increasing the input voltage decreases the current consumption, and extends the life of the batteries.
   
   If you like doing this kind of thing, making one to test would be fun! That being said, if you're planning to host an event, there may be plenty of other things on your mind that day, and taking 'home made high voltage supply' off that list might help.

I'm not sure what your budget is, but this might do the trick. There's also a 600-watt model, or this should have little problem lasting 5 hours, if you can spend that much. There's also small portable generators available that will give you power for as long as you can feed them fuel.

Aux batteries are nice because you can feel confident to run them down, and when charged they allow you to jump start yourself with jumper cables if you accidentally run your car battery down.

Yes, the aux batteries need to wire into something to charge them. Either solar, grid/generator power, or the car. Mine can be charged through all 3. Charging from the car is the most practical.

You want the aux to be charged while your car is running. If you're feeling mechanical you'd want a battery isolator like this, but that install is a pain.

Instead, I use an inverter plus a charger; very safe and non-technical. I hook my inverter up to my starter battery, and simply wedge it next to the starter battery under the hood. Then I run a normal "3-prong" home extension cord from under the hood into my SUV cab. In the cab I plug into a battery charger which is connected to the aux batteries to charge them. These links aren't the actual ones I use, just to show you examples.

In my setup, I have to pop the hood and switch on the inverter after I start the car, and before I stop the car, pop the hood again and turn it off. So it doesn't drain the stater battery while the car is off. Some people might agree with my build but in my opinion it's the simplest and cheapest way.

As far as sizing. For simple, just get one battery. Look at the Amp Hours (Ah) rating. IMO get an AGM battery (a type of SLA), other types are finicky. Watts is Amps Volts. Batteries are 12 volts so a 12 volt battery with 100 Amp Hours (Ah) can provide 12100=1200 watts. Divide by 2 since you only want to drain it to 50%. So a 100 Ah battery gives you 600 watts. If you run a 25 watt blanket, that means the battery can run it for 24 hours. It's best to underestimate here since the battery will rarely be fully charged except after a long drive.

If you had a 100 Ah AGM battery, you'd want probably a 10-amp charger (for reasons) and a 400+ watt inverter.

I know it's a lot :p Hope it makes sense.

It's better to be safe than sorry. You don't want to bring out all that gear only to find you can't turn it on.

You'll be fine with any of these with the top one being your best candidate. Just remember to be courteous to your neighbors if people are trying to sleep!

Xantrex 806-1210 PROwatt 1000 SW Inverter

MicroSolar 1000W (Peak 2000W) Pure Sine Wave Inverter

BESTEK® Dual 110V AC Outlets 1000w/1200w Max Car DC 12V to 110V AC Inverter Power

You'll probably want to get a fuse holder and a cable kit depending on how far you expect to keep the table from your car.

You could also go the more environmental route and get some solar panels to juice up a spare solar battery each day.

https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-18000mAh-Portable-Charging-Flashlight/dp/B077HY7SFJ

Pretty sure I wouldn't want to be trying to kick over a 103" or larger high compression engine too much. My shovel is a 93" at 10:1. I'd say 70% of the time I can fire it up in 1 or 2 kicks, the rest often takes a 3rd. Get it wrong, it's a good way to get hurt.

I see riders who complain they can't figure out if they have enough gas or not without a gas gauge now days. First person that hurt themselves with a factory kicker, we'd be seeing a hot coffee law suite with HD.

I carry one of theseI bigger trips, DBPOWER 600A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (up to 6.5L Gas/ 5.2L Diesel Engine) Power Pack Battery Booster, Power Bank with Smart Charging Port, Compass, LCD Screen & LED Flashlight (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HY7SFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MJOCAb29QM9NC

Works great.

It'll require a little bit of custom work but you can definitely power it off of a battery.

A pre-packaged battery will give you the easiest installation / charging options. Make sure it offers 12v DC outputs like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3S00H0/

Then you'll want to convert the 12v DC to 24v DC (the lightstrip plus runs on 24v) using a regulator like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085T97PW/

Aside from that, all you'll need are a couple of barrel plugs to connect the regulator between the battery and Hue controller. I'm not 100% sure of the barrel plug sizes, I expect the 12v side (battery output) to use a 5.5mm X 2.1mm barrel plug but I'm not sure which size the Hue controller requires as input.

I went with a hardwired AC one so I can have traditional AC house wiring and plugs. http://www.amazon.com/Power-PWRIX120012S-Inverter-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00TI1D5JK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457023612&sr=8-1&keywords=aims+power+1200

This is basically what I have. I bought a different battery and inverter because I have an account at batteries Plus but this is a widely accepted quality battery and a decent inverter. I would recommend buying at least the battery local as shipping them is expensive.

NOTE I did not include fuses/breakers in this list but you definitely should build these into your design.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Polycrystalline-Starter/dp/B00DCEKKQ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487256044&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+100w+starter+kit

https://www.amazon.com/Trojan-T27-AGM-Group-Purpose-Battery/dp/B00NY0RAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487256242&sr=8-1&keywords=trojan+12volt

https://www.amazon.com/34-97-2-15-17-ENERGIZER-Inverter-charging/dp/B01N5LUMDF/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1487256346&sr=8-16&keywords=500w+inverter

Depending on what you really want to power this may be way more than you need. You really should start by figuring out the load you want to power and then design your system around that number. This is a great little tool for figuring out how much power the devices you want to power will use and it's certainly cheaper than buying too much system and finding out you could have done what you wanted with half as much as you bought.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487256555&sr=8-1&keywords=killawatt

I'm certainly not an expert at solar but am learning so feel free to PM any other questions.

https://canadacpapsupply.com/medistrom-cpap-battery-pilot-24.html

I use one of those. Works good for 1-2 nights depending how many hours I sleep.

I charge it on my motorcycle using a 12v-24v step up converter. https://www.amazon.ca/Converter-Regulator-12V-Step-24V/dp/B0085T97PW

I built it all into a waterproof Pelican Case that I strap onto the bike and use a Battery Tender style plug to connect to the bike for charging.

Not the cheapest solution, but if you don't have a 4 wheeled vehicle for hauling a deep cycle, its the next best option.

How did I do?

1. Panels: 2 Sanyo panels 215w each
   42v at 5.13A
   Wiring with MC-4 connectors
   http://imgur.com/tpqUBka
   
2. Charge Controller
   Morningstar PS-30m
   30A and 12/24v
   $162.89
   http://www.bluepacificsolar.com/charge-controller/morningstar- ps-30m.html
   
3. Battery
   UPG: UB-8D AGM
   250AH (20hour rate)
   $430
   http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/battery-folder/UPG_UB8D.pdf
   
4. Inverter
   1000W (Peak 2000W) Pure Sine Wave Inverter - with Remote Wire Controller – MicroSolar
   http://www.amazon.com/1000W-Peak-2000W-Pure-Inverter/dp/B00F4TP3AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406526974&sr=8-2&keywords=pure+sine+wave+inverter
   

4.5 stars out of 1700 reviews for $60. Hard to beat

DBPOWER 600A Peak 18000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (up to 6.5L Gas/5.2L Diesel Engine) Portable Battery Booster with Smart Charging Port, Compass, LCD Screen & LED Flashlight (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HY7SFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLcADbGEKN8XR

Why not get a 120v car adapter and use any computer you want? Seems restrictive to build a computer around a very specific power delivery when you can transform the power to a universal standard.

Something like this might be useful too:

BMK 200W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC DC Adapter 4 USB Ports Charger Adapter Car Plug Converter with Switch and Current LCD Screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HPZ9JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qtu6CbW7JC9RE

you could always use a inverter hooked straight up to your car's battery. You'd have to leave your car running to not drain the battery though.

here is one : $100 on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Power-TechOn-Inverter-Outlets-PS1001/dp/B0131GJ5X2/ref=sr_1_14?crid=33YKUH6TPOH1W&keywords=pure+sine+wave+inverter&qid=1558705946&s=gateway&sprefix=pure+sine+wa%2Caps%2C361&sr=8-14

I use a converter to go from pi's 5v to fan's 12v. You will need a meter to adjust the output

Icstation MT3608 Mico USB DC 2V-24V to 5V-28V 2A Boost Converter, Voltage Regulator, Booster, Step Up Power Supply Module 3.3V 5V 6V 9V 12V to 5V 6V 9V 12V 24V (Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9ZVXTR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lB2tDbVY3GJMN

I'm a van camper and use one of these.

$100 panels https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HHDC6NQ/

$20 charge controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MU0WMGT/

$100 marine battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008974VFG/

$150 ac inverter 2000watt https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0716WT8D5/

I hadn't said that someone else did. Here is what I currently have...
https://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteries-8016-103-BlueTop-Starting/dp/B00075OSCO/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UXM6F22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't plug anything into the inverter, I just hooked up the battery to the inverter (see this diagram:http://bestsale2u.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/100W-12V-Solar-Panel-Installation.jpg)

When I turned the inverter on with nothing plugged in, the display on the inverter had 11.4V for the input voltage. This is my inverter for reference --> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716WT8D5/

The inverter displays the voltage itself and has an alarm for low voltage as well.

A post was deleted that mentioned a really good variable power converter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQH4M82

I can detect nothing off the battery right now. And the only way I've tried to charge it is with the charging board, which the led color change from red to blue after 45 minutes or so seemed to indicate I had charged it.

The minimum on the booster is 2-24 and output 5-28. I trimmed it 15 times in a clockwise direction before hooking it up because that's what the directions said. Then messed with it slightly after hooking it up just trying to get any voltage.

Icstation MT3608 Mico USB DC Voltage Regulator Step Up Boost Converter Power Supply Module 2V-24V to 5V-28V 2A (Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9ZVXTR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Supposing I did trip the circuit in the battery. And I need to get another. Would two 18650 batteries in a case with wire leads be a better option? And is the circuit protection in a Lithium battery necessary. YouTube videos said its was absolutely vital to prevent fires?

Oooooo gotcha! Yeah, the one I has drains kinda fast. I have used a solar charger with a cigarette lighter adapter in the past.

This is the EXACT model of battery I have. With that in mind, I would not recommend this model. I charge it for 24 hours straight and it will drain after trying to charge 1 cell phone. I need to get a solar panel for it if I'm going to use it this year ->
https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-802-1500-XPower-Portable-Powerpack/dp/B00005RHQQ

Okay I'll try that for the noise.

I'm also having problems with keeping my devices powered. And audio dropping from my dac.

I got the same power setup running my hub and the otg cable as before removing the battery.

Seems like when power runs through the the otg the amps drop on my converter. When i turny car off I can see the amps raise to between 0.50 amps and 1.00 amps.

If I keep my powermate volume knob connected to the hub audio seems to drop from my dac. If I disconnect the powermate then it seems to not happen.


The tablet cycles on and off properly.
It seems to me that the power coming in from the USB OTG connector is causing the converter to drop amps.


This is the converter
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01FQH4M82/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506543766&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+converter

It seems to detect battery full and charge. And this might be what's causing the amps to drop. It's got settings for voltage regulations and current regulations. Although current regulation doesn't seem to work manually. Do you think I should try using a more basic converter ?

Not sure what your power requirements are, but you can get one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-12v-Step-24v/dp/B0085T97PW

3A at 24V is decent. According to the reviews it seems to work well.

Whistler pro


KrIeger2000 watt

Power bright 200 watt pure sine

I'd stay away from the truck stop invertors I've heard plenty of bad stuff about them and have had issues with the ones I've bought.

I bought the whistler pro a few years back, never had any issues with it. Still have it and it's been sitting in a tote in my shed for the last year or so.

Meh, I have a 1500w inverter that isn't pure sine. I've been using it the past year, without any serious issue, charging and running electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-CPI-1575-Power-Inverter/dp/B00126IDDC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468430313&sr=8-2&keywords=1500w+inverter

I will say that it is finicky, and I'm certainly not in love with it. But it has worked.

Decided to go with a small (1200 watt) AIMS pure-sine inverter. It's designed to be hard-wired, which will be convenient for my uses.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TI1D5JK/

are there any problems with just plugging something like this http://www.amazon.com/KRIËGER®-2000-Power-Inverter-KR2000/dp/B00UXM6F22/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464042271&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=power+inverter&psc=1 into the battery directly and leaving my car running? will it damage my car's battery?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4TP3AE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000WGNNUQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=08CXPJCFG5CB9RS9HRCQ
+I would call up a car battery shop and find out where your best weight/power ratio is as far as batteries and get one of those

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HY7SFJ/ref=psdc_318336011_t2_B015TKUPIC


Just get one of these and you’ll be able to fully charge your phone 5 or 6 times and it’s a lot smaller than a solar charger

Thank you.

What about something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TI1D5JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SxlQBbJ5RS9X5 except I plug my regular UPS into it. Using the UPS as basically just a fast transfer?

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

I agree, deep cycle bettery and PowerPole plugs are the best. I have a 75Ah I selected based on it being 50lbs which is all I want to carry.

A simple easy way to go, for the less handy types, is the battery with a 12V to AC inverter, and just run all devices using the 110V wall-warts they came with.Get an inverter with terminals on the back, they make a better connection than the cigar lighter style. This is less efficient that going full DC, but quite handy if you have a Canon 8.4v DSLR camera with the Canon AC adapter. Because 12V going into the DSLR might get expensive.

>use a Rig Runner

Seems like overkill to fuse every 12V device. I use one of these.

Power inverter, but for the Dot I use USB which my truck does have. Not a super fancy truck, but it works for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-Power-Inverter-Converter-Adapter/dp/B072LM88F9/ref=asc_df_B072LM88F9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8223257547995429541&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007582&hvtargid=pla-568038601160&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8223257547995429541&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007582&hvtargid=pla-568038601160

Oof, that's a really long URL so I hope it works. If not, then google "cigarette lighter power converter" and make sure the wattage for your heating pad matches. For example, this one says it can handle 100 watts.

It would be pretty easy to build something similar for a lot cheaper. Pick up a used suitcase at the thrift shop, mount a 50w panel on the outside (much better than the 10W panel in the case you linked to.) Inside the case, mount a charge controller with USB, this 20Ah battery (again, better than the 16Ah in the other one), and this 500W inverter (not sure how big the one in the expensive case it, but 500W should be enough.) So for less than $250 and a little bit of build work, you can have a much more functional system (500% larger solar capacity and 25% more battery capacity).

[inverter](ampeak 1000w power inverter 12v dc to 110v ac dual ac outlets 2.1a usb car inverter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NZ8DSB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NbC6Ab814KH3Z)
[solar controller](allpowers 20a solar charger controller solar panel battery intelligent regulator with usb port display 12v/24v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0WMGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_adC6Ab4DAFH9X)
And ill add some sort of solar panel

I got the Krieger 1100 watt inverter from Amazon. Looks like they only have 1500 watt version now. The 1100 was only $20 cheaper I think. I thought It was a good deal because it came with the cables and fuses. And if you read some reviews, there are plenty of people running TVs and laptops with it.

I like that it had a small LCD screen showing how many watts you're drawing and how many volts on the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNL05GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ILDszbQ8TZCV0

Thanks for the replies. Any idea if it would be possible to step up the 12v input from the battery bank to 24v for the webasto?

Maybe using something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Vorcool-Converter-Regulator-12v-Step/dp/B0085T97PW

Products

MPPT Tracer Charge Controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KWPH12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Go Power! 4 Stage Battery Charger
https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GPC-45-MAX-4-Stage-Converter/dp/B007GN4VKY

1200 Watt Pure Sine Inverter
https://www.amazon.com/Power-PWRIX120012S-Inverter-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00TI1D5JK

Eco Solar Cool Refrigerator
https://www.ecosolarcool.com/collections/upright-refrigerators/products/solar-refrigerator-12-5-cuft-escr355ge

Trojan T105-RE Batteries
http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105-re/

Solar Panels (Monocrystalline)
http://www.ecodirect.com/Canadian-Solar-CS6K-295MS-T4-295-Watt-Mono-PERC-p/canadian-solar-cs6k-295ms-t4.htm

https://smile.amazon.com/BESTEK-150W-Power-Inverter-Car/dp/B07DW1PSRH there's tons of them meant to plug into cars, converts 12V DC to 110V AC

If you look on your power adapter, it should tell you the watts, if not, to calculate watts, multiply volts x amps. So, for my laptop, it was 65 watts, and the Samsung fast charger is 10 watts for a total of 75 watts, so I could have gotten away with like a 100 watt inverter, but I was looking into getting a portable printer and wanted extra capacity.


I bought one like this off of amazon, worked good, but after a while, the USB port died (probably an internal fuse). But since it had "household" 110v outlets as well, it was just as easy to use the standard plugs that came with my laptop and Samsung wall charger.

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B004MDXS0U?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

This one is the same price (29.99), but 400W (400 watts):

https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-400W-Power-Inverter-Converter/dp/B0714B231X?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

At the time, I didn't have much money, but I would have liked to have bought a higher wattage one, like 2000 watts, so that I could use a hot pot to heat water for tea/coffee/soup, etc. The hot pot that I currently have draws 1500 watts, for example.

Well if a DA polisher needs 450-600w then you could power one with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00126IDDC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_yv9-ub05SQPK8

One could wire it into the trunk of their mobile detail vehicle like an amplifier.

Or less work- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DW1PSRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ueyADb099ZZM3

I've something similar to this (but not this... can't find what I used) to power PAs for wedding ceremonies and parade floats.

https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DCB1800B-Flexvolt-Portable-Station/dp/B01H41SDGU

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-802-1500-XPower-Portable-Powerpack/dp/B00005RHQQ

Could also check your local rental houses.

No, it's a made up bullshit number.

https://www.my12voltstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=15028&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqfegm5mF5AIVjK_ICh0xtQRPEAkYASABEgK4ufD_BwE

And a 2kW inverter, which might not be necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-2000W-Inverter-Converter-Outlets/dp/B0716WT8D5

Even if you tripled these 5 minute prices for "quality" industrial grade stuff and billed a full 8 hour day per bus at $160/hr you'd still be less than $4,000 a bus.